MADISON MEADOWS CHECKLIST

1. FIELD SHINGLES INSPECT AND REPLACE ALL SHINGLES WITH VISIBLE PHYSICAL
DAMAGE.
USE 6 NAILS IN EACH SHINGLE, EVENLY SPACED.

2. EAVES INSPECT TO MAKE SURE UNDERLAYMENT MUST COVER ALL DECKING.

CHECK FOR UNDERLAYMENT TO HAVE A 4” HORIZONTAL OVERLAP (PARALLEL TO THE EAVES)
AND BE INSTALLED OVER THE EAVE DRIP EDGE.

INSPECT, AND FIX RAKE DRIP EDGE TO HAVE 2” OVERLAP ON ADJACENT PIECES AND OVERLAP
ON CORNERS WITH NO GAPS! EAVE DRIP EDGE GOES UNDER RAKE DRIP EDGE ON CORNERS!

DRIP EDGE MUST HAVE A 1 ¼” ROOFING NAIL EVERY 8-10” OC.

(YOU CAN FIX THE EXISTING DRIP EDGE WITHOUT PROPER OVERLAP BY USING NEW DRIP
EDGE PIECES OF MINIMUM 18” IN LENGTH, FASTENED TO THE CURRENT DRIP EDGE BEHIND IT
WITH A POP RIVET GUN TO CREATE A FLUSH / FLAT FINISH.)

REPLACE ALL OLD WHITE DRIP EDGE.

INSTALL THE DRIP EDGE INTO THE GUTTER, IN FRONT OF AND BELOW THE BACK PLATE.
DRIP EDGE CANNOT HAVE FLAPS CUT TO INSTALL THE BRACKETS.
THE BRACKETS / SCREWS MUST NOT GO THROUGH THE DRIP EDGE.
BACK PLATE MAY BE CUT 1”. END CAPS MAY NOT BE CUT INTO.
USE TITEBOND FOR ANY CUTS MADE INTO BACKPLATE OR ENDCAPS OR ANY GAPS.

SEAL THE STARTER SHINGLE TO THE DRIP EDGE EVERY 18” WITH A GENEROUS DAB OF
ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT (GUNNABLE) (THE BRACKETS / SCREWS MUST NOT GO THROUGH
THE DRIP EDGE.

SEAL THE STARTER SHINGLE TO THE DRIP EDGE EVERY 18” WITH A GENEROUS DAB OF
ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT (GUNNABLE)

3. RAKES INSPECT TO MAKE SURE UNDERLAYMENT COVERS ALL DECKING.

NEW UNDERLAYMENT INSTALLED MUST HAVE A 6” VERTICAL OVERLAP (PARALLEL TO THE
RAKES) AND BE INSTALLED UNDER THE RAKE DRIP EDGE.

INSPECT, AND FIX RAKE DRIP EDGE TO HAVE 2” OVERLAP ON ADJACENT PIECES AND OVERLAP
ON CORNERS WITH NO GAPS!

DRIP EDGE MUST HAVE A 1 ¼” ROOFING NAIL EVERY 8-10” OC.

YOU CAN FIX THE EXISTING DRIP EDGE WITHOUT PROPER OVERLAP BY USING NEW DRIP EDGE
PIECES OF MINIMUM 18” IN LENGTH, FASTENED TO THE CURRENT DRIP EDGE BEHIND IT WITH A
POP RIVET GUN TO CREATE A FLUSH / FLAT FINISH.

SEAL THE STARTER SHINGLE TO THE DRIP EDGE EVERY 18” WITH A GENEROUS DAB OF
ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT (GUNNABLE)
IF THERE IS NO STARTER INSTALLED, SEAL THE ENTIRE RAKE DRIP EDGE WITH A LINE BEAD OF
ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT.

RAKE DRIP EDGE GOES OVER EAVE DRIP EDGE AT CORNERS

4. VALLEYS TEAR OUT AND REPLACE ALL VALLEYS WITH CLOSED-CUT
INSTALLATIONS AND USE ASPHALT ROOF CEMENT (TAMKO) UNDER THE 2” OFFSET CUT
SHINGLES TO SEAL FROM WATER PENETRATION.

5. ICE AND WATER SHIELD IN VALLEYS INSPECT AND VERIFY ICE AND
WATER SHIELD IS INSTALLED IN ALL VALLEYS, AND OVER THE EAVE DRIP EDGE IN ALL
VALLEY OUTFALL ZONES – INSTALL NEW IF NECESSARY WHEN RE-DOING VALLEYS. ICE
AND WATER NEEDS A MINIMUM 12” HORIZONTAL OVERLAP AND BE LAID IN 4-6’ PIECES.

6. FACE / HEADWALL FLASHINGS LAMINATE SHINGLES ON TOP OF HEADWALL /

FACE FLASHINGS WITH ROOFER’S MASTIC (ASPHALT PLASTIC ROOF CEMENT WITH A
TROWEL OR COMPARABLE TOOL) – MAKE SURE NO NAILS ARE THROUGH THE SHINGLES ON
TOP.

7. EXPOSED NAILS SEAL ALL EXPOSED NAIL HEADS ON EVERY ROOF WITH TITEBOND
WEATHERMASTER BLACK – GUNNABLE SEALANT.

8. GABLE END TERMINATIONS INSTALL ICE AND WATER SHIELD AT ALL GABLE END
TERMINATIONS BEHIND THE FASCIA ALUMINUM SIDING WRAP ON EYEBROW CORNERS. THERE
ARE GAPS IN SOME AREAS WITH EXPOSED DECKING AND ENTRY INTO ROOF SYSTEM. ICE AND
WATER MUST GO UNDER THE EXISTING LAPS 6”. ICE AND WATER MUST BE SEALED DIRECTLY
TO WOOD, AND UNDERLAYMENTS AND FLASHINGS OVERLAPPED CONTINUOUSLY DOWN
SLOPE.

FASCIA METAL REPLACE ANY ROOFER-DAMAGED ALUMINUM FASCIA SIDING WRAP

AS NEEDED ONLY.

9. OFF RIDGE VENTS INSPECT ALL OFF-RIDGE VENTS FLANGES AND MAKE SURE TO
NAIL THEM 5” OR LESS OC., ON TOP, LEFT, AND RIGHT SIDES OF VENT.
THE NAILS AND SCREWS MUST BE 1” FROM THE EDGE OF THE FLANGE ON ALL SIDES.
SEAL THE NAILS, SCREWS, AND FLANGES WITH TAMKO PLASTIC ROOF CEMENT.
RE-SHINGLE ON TOP OF THE CEMENT.
USING A ½” DRILL, SCREW THE BOTTOM SLOPE SIDE OF FLANGE INTO ROOF DECK WITH #9
X MIN. 1.5-INCH HWH SCREWS WITH 0.5-INCH SEALING WASHERS.

10. PIPE BOOTS INSPECT ALL PIPE BOOTS FOR DEPRESSIONS, CRACKS, TEARS, AND
REPLACE AS NECESSARY.

11. ROOF TO WALL TRANSITIONS THE LOWER ENTRY ROOF TO WALL

CORNER TRANSITION ZONES MUST BE SEALED WITH TITEBOND WEATHERMASTER
WHITE, AND FOAM CHORD BACKER ROD INSTALLED IF NEEDED TO FILL ANY GAPS
(BETWEEN FREEZE BAND, DRIP EDGE, SIDING, BRICK -- ALL ON THE ENTRY ROOF TO
WALL CORNER.)

12. SMALL PUMP HOUSE ROOFS SPRINKLER ROOM ROOF TO WALL

FLASHINGS MUST BE REPLACED WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED 26 GA GALVANIZED STEEL
SHEET METAL.
BEFORE FLASHING IS INSTALLED, THE BRICK MUST BE PROPERLY MORTARED AND
INSTALLED PER IBC CODE AND STANDARD BUILDING PRACTICES.
THE FLASHING MUST BE TIED IN WITH THE EXISTING STEP FLASHING, BEHIND IT.
THE FLASHING MUST BE INSTALLED BEHIND THE EXISTING SIDING AND FREEZE BAND.
THE FLASHING MUST WRAP OVER THE EXISTING BRICK CAP FLASHING.
THE FLASHING MUST SERVE AS A DIVERTER AT THE CORNER OUTFALL ZONE AT THE
EAVE.
FREEZE BOARD MUST BE REPLACED OR REINSTALLED AND PAINTED TO MATCH IF
NECESSARY.

13. CLEANING INSPECT AND CLEAN DEBRIS AND NAILS ON ALL

BUILDINGS AND GUTTERS.

14. GUTTERS REPLACE ANY DAMAGED GUTTERS DUE TO BUNDLES

FALLING (THEY ARE ON ALL EAVES)

15. CLUBHOUSE INSTALL PRE-FABBED DIVERTER FLASHINGS TIED INTO

THE EXISTING STEP FLASHINGS AND EAVE FLASHINGS ON THE CLUBHOUSE.
THE EXISTING PANEL SIDING MUST BE REMOVED TO ACCOMPLISH THIS.
THE DIVERTER FLASHING MUST BE INSTALLED BEHIND, AND A SLIT CUT INTO
THE SIDING WALL. DIVERTER CANNOT BE FACE NAILED INTO THE WALL.