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The ultimate carb connection
BY STEVE POND 1•2•

PAGE ONE (OF TWO)

Learn to tune your nitro engine, and you’ll have a tremendous advantage over your
competition. Tuning is one of the extra dimensions of running a nitro vehicle. This “learning” can,
however, be frustrating to nitro newcomers.

The carburetor is the heart of the engine. The engine’s other parts don’t require adjustment, and
unless they fail completely, they will function well without your attention. Having a correctly
adjusted (tuned) carb is, however, essential to proper engine operation, and to ensure this, you
have to understand the carburetor’s function.

WHAT DOES THE CARBURETOR DO?

The carburetor simply regulates the flow of air and fuel (air/fuel mixture) through the engine in a
way that optimizes performance throughout the engine’s rpm and load range.

• Airflow is regulated by the throttle’s position. Whenever you move the trigger on the transmitter,
you’re manipulating how much air is being allowed into the engine.

• Fuel flow, on the other hand, is regulated by as many as three “needles.” These needles are
really screws; each has a tapered tip that extends into a hole (seat) in the path of the fuel flow.
Fuel flows around the needles, through the seats and into the engine. If a needle is screwed
inward, it blocks more of the seat and reduces fuel flow. Conversely, when it is screwed outward,
more of the seat is “open” and the fuel flow is therefore greater.
 MIXTURE-NEEDLE BASICS

All RC engines have at least a main, or high-speed, mixture

needle; some also have a low-speed needle; and a select few
have both, plus a third, mid-range, needle. A needle is a type
of valve; in motocross speak, it’s often referred to as a
“needle and seat assembly.” The needle passes through the
center of the “seat,” and because its tip is tapered, the fuel
flow is regulated according to its position in the seat. As the
needle is screwed farther into the seat, it reduces fuel flow
through its opening.

WHY WE NEED CARBS

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

To run properly, all engines require the proper mixture (ratio) Fuel enters the carburetor
of air and fuel. The carburetor must be adjusted to deliver the through the banjo fitting (1); it
correct amount of fuel for the amount of air entering the then travels into and through
engine. the main needle assembly (2)
and eventually exits into the
venturi via the fuel inlet (3).
So why must mixture settings be adjustable? After all, once
The low-speed needle as
the needle(s) have been set to deliver the ideal mixture, why
shown here isn’t a factor at full
should you need to mess with them ever again? The ambient
throttle.
temperature, humidity, altitude and even the barometric
pressure alter how much air (specifically oxygen) goes into the engine, and the mixture must be
adjusted to compensate for changing conditions; for example, those with keen eyes will pick up
on the mini weather centers in the pits at motor sports events. These engine tuners closely
monitor all the factors mentioned, and they adjust the air/fuel mixture to suit prevailing weather
conditions.

This holds true for all engines—RC and full-scale—though in my opinion, engines that run on
alcohol-based fuel such as those used in RC engines are the most affected. That’s why questions
such as, “Where should I set the mixture needles on my XYZ engine?” are so tough to answer.
Some manufacturers suggest needle settings, but the ideal settings for a particular day may be
as much as a full turn of the mixture needles in either direction. Your fine-tuning will be based on
the conditions under which you run. Simply knowing that you’ll have to make adjustments to
maximize performance to compensate for changes in the weather puts you a step ahead of the
game.

THE MIXTURE NEEDLES

The high-speed needle is inside the housing where the fuel inlet (banjo fitting) is. It regulates how
much fuel is allowed into the engine when running at any speed, although it mostly affects fuel
mixture in the medium to high rpm range. Its setting has the greatest effect on overall engine
performance.

The low-speed, or idle mixture, screw on carbs so equipped further regulates how much fuel
comes from the main needle. Even engines that don’t have an adjustable low-speed needle
usually have one that’s fixed in place. Without the low-speed needle, the fuel flow allowed to pass
through the main needle would be too much for the engine to burn at idle and low speeds, and
this would soon cause the engine to flood and stall. The low-speed needle is usually inside the
throttle barrel or slide, and this makes it effective only when the carb is at partial throttle or idle.
As the throttle is moved toward fully open, the low-speed needle retracts entirely from its seat and
allows full fuel flow from the main needle.
 CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE
Left: when the main needle (1) is adjusted counterclockwise, it
is retracted from the seat (2) near its tip; this increases the
fuel flow and gives a richer air/fuel mixture.
Right: adjusting the main needle (1) clockwise threads its
tapered tip farther into the seat (2); this restricts fuel flow to
lean the air/fuel mixture.

The low-speed needle is primarily responsible for the engine’s idling quality and its off-idle
performance. If the low-speed setting is too rich (too much fuel in the air/fuel mixture), the engine
will “load up”—the crankcase will start to fill with fuel—and this will at least compromise idle
quality. At worst, an overly rich low-speed setting will allow far too much fuel into the engine; the
cylinder will be flooded as soon as throttle is applied, and this will douse the glow-plug element,
and the engine will stall. Even richer settings will stall the engine almost immediately. A lean
setting here is equally disruptive: it makes it hard for the engine to idle down and causes the
bogging that cripples acceleration.

Engines that are designed to be user-friendly typically have carbs with a fixed low-speed needle.
There aren’t any inherent design differences that allow this type of carb to run any better under
identical conditions; it’s simply a way for engine manufacturers to simplify engine tuning for their
customers. A fixed low-speed needle limits adjustment choices to the high-speed needle only.
This does simplify engine tuning, but it also hampers performance in all but the conditions for
which the fixed needle has been set; the carb setting will be ideal only for a limited range of
conditions. If the weather, etc., is outside this range, the engine will run too rich or too lean at low
speeds and at idle.
 THE THIRD NEEDLE

The third “needle” isn’t actually a needle at all; it’s an

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE
The low-speed needle (1)
simply regulates how much
fuel flows from the inlet (2) at the seat are adjusted in the same direction—farther into the
lower engine speeds. At full
throttle, however, the low-
speed needle is fully retracted to as the mid-range needle. Its use will marginally alter the rate
from the inlet to allow
maximum flow.
adjustable seat. These third adjustments are found exclusively
on slide carbs because their design allows them (I’ll get to the
variety of carb designs later). In most slide carbs, the low-
speed needle is in the center of the slide valve. The seat for the
low-speed needle is fixed in the body of the carb, opposite the
slide valve. As a slide carb opens, the vacuum helps to draw
fuel into the engine. Once the airflow has a direct path over the
fuel inlet, fuel draw is increased slightly. By adjusting the low-
speed needle and the third “needle” at the same time, you can
adjust the throttle position at which the fuel inlet is fully
exposed to the air flowing through the carb. For example, if the
inlet is fully exposed at 1/4 throttle, an extra dose of fuel can be
expected at that point. If, however, the low-speed needle and
carb’s venturi—the inlet may not be fully exposed until 1/3
throttle is reached. This is why the third needle is often referred
of fuel flow in the mid-throttle range—an extra tuning option for
the accomplished tuner.

It’s often recommended that the third needle be left alone by all except very experienced engine
tuners. More harm than good can potentially result from trying to use this adjustment without
knowing the consequences. You’ll never get the experience without trying, however, so use your
best judgment. Even if you opt not to use the third needle as a tuning tool, a three-needle design
offers a secondary benefit: another way to adjust the low-speed mixture. The conventional way to
adjust it is to adjust the needle, but simply by adjusting the seat or the third needle without
adjusting the low-speed needle an equivalent amount, you accomplish the same thing. This is
helpful in applications in which the low-speed needle isn’t very accessible because it’s blocked by
some hardware on the chassis.

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BY STEVE POND 1•2•

PAGE ONE (OF TWO)

CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

This is a typical 3-needle slide carb. The main needle (1) is above and to the left; the low-
speed needle (2) is threaded in from the right; the third “needle” (3) is actually an
adjustable fuel inlet. Adjusting the low-speed needle and the inlet at the same time alters
when the tip of the inlet is exposed to direct airflow and slightly increases fuel flow. Note
that the fuel inlet is exposed to full airflow at about 1/3 throttle.

Adjusting the third “needle” requires that both the low-speed needle and the seat be
adjusted in the same direction: for example, adjusting the seat inward two turns and the
low-speed needle outward two turns keeps the relationship between the low-speed needle
and the seat the same; it just shifts the fuel inlet farther into the bore, requiring the
throttle to open more before the inlet is exposed to direct airflow. In this illustration,
notice that the carb must be opened about halfway to expose the inlet.

THE VENTURI

The venturi is a very important part of the carburetor: it’s the

opening through which air passes on its way into the engine.
Why is the venturi so important? The carb’s air inlet narrows at
its center—something like an hourglass. The narrowest part is
right in the center of the venturi where the barrel or slide is.
The inlet’s taper accelerates the speed of the air as it passes
the area where the fuel goes into the carburetor, and it creates
a low-pressure area, or vacuum. This is referred to as the
“Bernoulli effect.” The result is that fuel is drawn from the fuel
inlet and into the engine with far greater efficiency. It also
improves fuel atomization and fuel draw at low rpm, and that
improves idle quality. CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

The venturi’s hourglass shape

CARBURETOR TYPES speeds airflow through the
tight center section of the
On RC engines, two carb designs are predominant—rotary carburetor where the slide
and slide. Both accomplish the same goal; they just go about it valve (1) and fuel inlet (2) are.
differently. And both have advantages and disadvantages, so As the air begins to expand at
knowing which type best suits your application can be the final the bottom end of the venturi,
step to reaching the winners’ circle. a vacuum is created to
improve fuel flow at lower
• Rotary carb. This is the most common design used on engine speeds and to better
small-block engines—mostly .12 to .15 cubic inches in size. atomize fuel for more
This design was made popular many years ago on model efficiency and power.
airplane engines. It’s an easier design to work with in the
confines of an RC airplane fuselage. The design was used on RC car engines when they were
first produced. Modern rotary carbs have been refined specifically for RC cars, but the essence of
the design remains the same.

In the center of the carb, there is a horizontal barrel that has a hole through it. When the barrel is
rotated (hence the name “rotary” carb), more or less of the hole is exposed to allow air to flow
through the carburetor. The barrel not only rotates, but it also moves slightly to one side of the
carb much like a screw being unscrewed from a hole. This is what makes the low-speed needle
function.

When running at lower speeds, the barrel carb is considered to be less responsive. At lower
throttle positions, the hole in the barrel opening is barely opened, and this creates turbulence that
slightly disturbs fuel draw and atomization. Even at full throttle, there is more hardware in the
venturi that slightly reduces maximum airflow, and therefore, maximum power output. In some
circles, however, this is considered to be an advantage: off-road nitro trucks and other
applications don’t always need brute acceleration. To maintain traction, it’s generally better to
have less throttle response at lower speeds. Some might argue with that, but most of us find it
easier to drive these vehicles when throttle response is more
manageable.

• Slide carb. This design has many components that are

similar to those used in the rotary type, but they’re arranged
in a way that’s better suited to making more power. Instead
of having a hole through its center section, the barrel is
virtually solid. To regulate airflow, it slides to allow air to flow
past its end rather than through it. At low speeds, the barrel
slides into the carburetor opening to block most of the airflow
and minimize rpm. As throttle is applied, the barrel slides out
of the venturi to allow more air and fuel to pass and enter the
engine.

The advantage of the slide carb is that there’s always a

smoother path for the airflow, and that maximizes power.
There’s a clean, straight shot right through the carb,
regardless of the throttle position. Additionally, the path
through the carb at full throttle is less restricted, and that
makes more power at the top end as well. The end game is
that a slide carb will generally make more power across the CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE
board. This can make driving a little difficult in cars that are
This cross-section of a rotary
not able to get the power to the ground, but for nitro touringcarb illustrates the awkward
cars and other applications that are better suited to handle path the air must follow at lower
all the power, there’s no question that a slide carb is the throttle settings. This inefficient
better choice. design softens bottom-end
throttle response, but it suits
PUT IT ALL TOGETHER AND... nitro trucks because they don’t
have as much traction as 4WD
Having a clear understanding of what’s happening inside the on-road cars.
carburetor will automatically make you a better engine tuner.
Having this insight allows you to know what’s going to happen every time you make an
adjustment.

The process starts when the piston travels upward. There’s a vacuum created below the piston,
and that draws air through the carburetor. The air flows through the venturi, speeding up at the
tightest section and then creating a vacuum. This vacuum draws the fuel from the fuel inlet and
into the engine. The fuel travels from the fuel tank and into the engine through the fuel fitting; it
then passes around the main needle and through the hole in the seat area to the fuel inlet in the
venturi. When throttle is applied, the low-speed needle is withdrawn from the fuel inlet and
eventually allows full fuel flow; fuel flow is then regulated only by the main needle’s setting.
 CARB RESTRICTERS

It takes time and humility to admit that we can’t handle the

power developed by the new generation of engines. Even
good racers often hamper their performance by having too
much power. A carb restricter is a cone-shaped insert
designed to fit in a carb’s venturi. The opening in the bottom
of the restricter is smaller than that in the bottom of the carb,
so it limits airflow and, consequently, power. Restricters are
available with openings of various sizes, so you can tailor
your engine’s performance to the track’s condition.

So if you can swallow your pride for long enough to plop down
a few bucks for a carb restricter, your race results will almost
certainly improve.

FINAL THOUGHTS
CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE

At partial throttle, slide When you’re clearly able to visualize what goes on in a carb
carburetors provide a clean, while the engine is running, you have the battle half licked.
straight path for airflow, and The carb is the most important part of any engine, so it’s
this can greatly improve where you should focus your energy if you want to be more
response at lower speeds. This successful at the track or even in the parking lot.
design is better for 4WD on-
road applications that allow No number of nitro or trick parts can supply the level of
more power to be put to the performance you will have when you at last get your engine
ground. tuned perfectly. Don’t be afraid to experiment because you’ll
inevitably have to tune your engine sooner or later. Just make
one small adjustment at a time, and see what effect it has, and you’ll be amazed at what
proficient tuning can do for you. Best of all, it’s free!