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ERASMUS+ KA2

Traditional Settlements,
Cultural Heritage and
Sustainable Development

EDITED BY
JÁNOS PALOTÁS

FOUNDATION OF KNOWLEDGE
HÓDMEZŐVÁSÁRHELY
2018
TRADITIONAL SETTLEMENTS, CULTURAL
HERITAGE AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT
PARTNERS

Kentro Perivallontikis Ekpedefsis Filiaton, Filiates (Greece) –


Coordinator

Foundation of Knowledge, Hódmezővásárhely (Hungary)

ASPECT – Management and Intercultural Relations, Plovdiv (Bulgaria)

Shoqata Shqiptare e Ambientalisteve Industriale, Tirana (Albania)

Instytut Rozwoju Sportu i Edukacji, Warszava (Poland)

Razvojna agencija Sotla, Šmarje pri Jelšah (Slovenia)

Associazione Paesaggi Connessi, Sestu (Italy

Comune di Petrosino, Petrosino (Italy)

The publication has been published with the assistance of the Erasmus+ KA2 project called
“Traditional Settlements, Cultural Heritage and Sustainable Development”,
number 2016-1-EL01-KA204-023477

The European Commission support for the production of this publication does not constitute an
endorsement of the contents which reflects the views only of the authors, and the Commission cannot
be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein.

2 aurore
CONTENTS
CULTURAL HERITAGE OF EPIRUS-GREECE WITH EMPHASIS IN THESPROTIA 4
Kentro Perivallontikis Ekpedefsis Filiaton

THE WORLD OF SCATTERED FARMS IN HÓDMEZŐVÁSÁRHELY 16


Foundation of Knowledge

PRESERVATION AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT 44


ASPECT – Management and Intercultural Relations

KRUJA CASTLE A CULTURAL AND TRADITIONAL SETTLEMENTS HERITAGE


AND ITS PRESERVATION MEASURES 66
Shoqata Shqiptare e Ambientalisteve Industriale

THE ROLE OF TOURISM IN SUSTAINABLE HERITAGE MANAGEMENT 86


Instytut Rozwoju Sportu i Edukacji

TRADITIONAL SETTLEMENTS, CULTURAL HERITAGE AND SUSTAINABLE


DEVELOPMENT IN OBSOTELJE AND KOZJANSKO REGION 100
Razvojna agencija Sotla

TRADITIONAL VILLAGES AND HOUSES IN SOUTHERN RURAL SARDINIA 116


Associazione Paesaggi Connessi

TRADITIONAL SETTLEMENTS, CULTURAL HERITAGE AND SUSTAINABLE


DEVELOPMENT 134
Comune di Petrosino

3
CULTURAL HERITAGE
OF EPIRUS-GREECE
WITH EMPHASIS IN
THESPROTIA
Wri‚en by
Smyris Georgios
(Architect, School of Fine Arts, University of
Ioannina)
Ntelis Methodios
IAbbot of Holy Monastery of Giromerion)
Dimitriou Constanঞnos
(Infrastructure Engineer)

Adapted translaঞon from Greek: Athanasia


Krikoni, Teacher of English

EPIRUS –
GREECE

Copy ediঞng and photos by


Nikolaou Markos
Theodoridi Thalia
(Center for Environmental Educaঞon of Filiates),
Filiates, Greece)

4 aurore 4
Coat of arms of Epirus

5
participation in international organizations
CULTURAL HERITAGE (UNESCO, Council of Europe, ICOMOS, ICOM,
OF EPIRUS-GREECE Europa Nostra) brought the country out of
isolation on these issues. A series of direc-
WITH EMPHASIS IN tives or internationally accepted principles
have been formally adopted or indirectly
THESPROTIA influenced by these decisions and develop-
ments.
The protection and enhancement of the ar- The concept of the cultural environment ap-
chitectural heritage is an obligation for the peared for the first time in the Greek legisla-
Greek state and the result of the interna- tion with the 1975 Constitution, where it is
tional obligations of the country. Greece’s clearly stated that “Monuments, traditional

6
Koulia Tower in Paramythia
Folklor museum of Foiniki

areas and traditional elements are protected natural world to which we belong as living
by the State”. In this context, it is clear that organisms.
traditional settlements, the protection of Since it is necessary to mediate a “built-in
which is imposed by their architecture, their model” for the transition from the existing
unity or their integration in the landscape imperfect society to an ideal one, we should
and their particular value in terms of the his- work out how to build an integrated house
tory of art or science, are also included. Ur- to support human and social identity, since
ban space and the countryside are homely, no one can be a citizen of the world or a sim-
encoded spaces that have come from uses ple person if he doesn’t belong to a place.
and habits, are not free and in no way emp- Thus, it is imperative that we be aware of the
ty. As we all understand, they are the result indigenous tradition and the knowledge of
of relations between economic activities, the past, and it is fundamental to preserve
social structures, cultural values, natural the elements that ensure this knowledge.
factors and memory, in a constant dynamic Modern definitions of scientific areas ensure
change with the man not as an observer but the correctness of the methods by partly re-
as a factor of the society that he experiences. moving the desired but inadequate, simplis-
With a more critical eye, the space is full of tic approach to the above issues.
memories, activities and experiences. It is In the region of Epirus, the institutional
the one created through social, economic framework imposes control of the form and
values and environmental conditions from the uses in 10 historical centers (settlements
life and culture. The real challenge nowa- or parts of settlements). We also have to add
days is if we are able to find the relationship a number of individual buildings, such as
with the earth and re-encounter with the 142 buildings in the city of Ioannina, 26 in

7
the county and a number of others that are deep knowledge of the space to which we
under control due to legislation. are going to contribute, we will avoid slip-
The framework is relatively adequate with- ping into clichés and recipes. This of course
out implying that it cannot be extended and has two aspects: Reflection must be fruitful
modified. But everything has a general un- on all four sides of the table which involves
derlying principle. The question of “what are the State bodies and legislation, users,
the specifications for repair, maintenance, scholars and reviewers.
rehabilitation of integration, has been liter- As far as the issue of religious monuments
ally replaced by the question: what are the and their prospect of development is con-
terms of construction” of new constructions, cerned, we should point out that taken for
a question which abolishes the concept of granted the fact that from antiquity to today,
conservation. In my opinion, a legislative to almost all people, there is the belief that
gap has been created, which is expanded the practice of one’s religion is more effec-
with the addition of new fragmentary de- tive at places where there are statues, tem-
crees and opinions, thus creating a multifac- ples, relics of saints or miraculous icons and
eted reference system. in places where the most important events
Moreover, the definition of “traditional set- of history took place, then we can under-
tlement” is not given in any legislative text stand the tradition of worshipping and its
concerning its protection. This protection, architectural unity.
which is one of the essential objectives of Religious tourism as a consequence of such
spatial planning and urban planning, is pri- worshipping expressions belongs to the al-
marily aimed at making apparent the unity ternative forms of tourism, which goes be-
of cultural heritage and the links between ar- yond the usual pattern of holidays and in-
chitecture, arts, folk traditions and lifestyles cludes the seeking for action and different
at regional, national and European level. activities. The intense interest in “religious
Its protection is necessary due to folklore, tourism” and its possibilities of develop-
ethnology, social, technical, architectural, ment has for years concerned the tourism
industrial or historical, artistic or scientific policies of the various states and the rele-
significance. vant bodies internationally. Since our coun-
If we attempt to classify the various trends try has so much religiosity, which is unique,
that have been developed, we could discern with the thousands of small and big monas-
the following trends, of course, considering teries and places that everyone would like
that the imitations or neutrality, are the easy to visit, we have a sound means of devel-
solution for every legislator. Here we have opment. Especially the geographical region
to add that the above comes from the need of Epirus presents important prospects and
to supply the architectural policy. With the development opportunities, which are iden-

8
Ioannina Chapel of Saint Minas Kokkinolithari
The Holy Metropolis of Paramythia Holy Monastery of Giromerion

tified both in the diversity of the alternative 14th century and renovated in 1568, is one of
forms of tourism and in the incentives given the most remarkable monuments of Byzan-
by the state for the strengthening of the in- tine art with excellent wall paintings of the
frastructure in the region. 16th century. Parts of wood-carved temple
In the prefecture of Thesprotia, which to- and several heirlooms of different seasons
gether with certain areas of the neighboring and of great artistic value are still kept in
prefectures of Ioannina and Preveza, con- good condition.
stitute the Holy Metropolis of Paramythia, Other monuments are also located around
a significant portion of visitors is interested the monastery. These are the traditional
in touring and acquainting our Monasteries villages of Giromeni, Foiniki, Faneromeni,
and their historical monumental complex- Plaisio and Sideris, the beautiful villages
es, the way of life of the monks and the old of Mourganas, with their abundant natural
historians with exquisite frescoes and our beauty, the Folklore Museums of Tsamanta
picturesque chapels. In the wooded areas and Foiniki and the mountainous range of
and on the slopes and steep summits of the Kalamas. There are also small rivers in the
mountainous areas, but also close to the cit- area, even the sea that is not far away, with
ies and the sea, monasteries and churches the well-known and attractive to all Sagiada.
offer exceptional and unique sights of archi- Thesprotia is a prefecture of monuments
tectural design. and places that can constitute a network
Monuments of the Byzantine world and oth- of tourist interest, which will contribute
ers carry memories of the traces of Hellenism significantly to the further development
and Orthodoxy in this turbulent area. There of the area. These are the Agios Georgios
are areas where a visit can perfectly be com- Kamitsanis Monastery dating from the 18th
bined with other activities such as visiting century, with its wonderful Catholic , the
archaeological sites, traditional settlements Monastery of Agios Athanasios of Vavouri
or areas of special natural beauty and inter- with its magnificent location, the Monastery
est. One example of this, which concerns of Agia Marina Lykou near Haravgi, the Agia
Thesprotia, is the historic Giromeri Monas- Paraskevi Monastery from the 16th century
tery in the area of Filiates. The Patriarchal on the edge of Kalamas. Some others are
and Stavropigiaki Monastery of Giromeri the picturesque Monastery of Panagia Spile-
was built in the early 14th century and is sit- otissa neighboring Vrosina and finally the
uated 23 km far from Igoumenitsa. It is one amazing Metochi of Agios Minas, the Meteor
of the most important monastic centres in of Epirus in Kokinolithari which is a part of
Epirus. It served as the headquarters of the this network to the north of the prefecture.
Patriarchal Exarchate and Bishopric until the But also the Paramythia area, with the his-
end of the 19th century, with a major contri- toric home of the Metropolis, is embellished
bution to Hellenism. Its Catholic, built in the with a large number of ecclesiastical monu-

9
ments. The majestic temple of Panagia from Monastery of Panagia Ragiou, which is in op-
the 14th century on the edge of the city with eration after several years of abandonment.
the nearby Byzantine baths, the magnificent We still have remarkable monuments in
monuments of ancient Photios excavated Kaminis with the Catholic of Agios Dimitrios
and constantly revealed, as well as the mod- Monastery dating back to the 13th century
ern Metropolitan Church of Agios Donatos in and in Gardiki with the Catholic Agia Kyriaki
the center of the city, where part of Relics of Monastery that has survived since the 14th
the patron saint, are important attractions century. Unique in their form are the Her-
for visitors. mitages, which are well preserved with the
We should also mention the famous Souli most important one this of the Saint Nile in
with the Temples and its castle, the historic Giromeri, where there are frescoes from the
settlement of Osdina with the Five Church- 14th century, the one of Boliana and the two
es, Gliki with its Middle Byzantine basilica, of Agios Arsenios in Velliani and Morphati.
Velliani with the historical Monastery of Outside the boundaries of the Prefecture,
Prodromos, the Paganias Monastery built in but within our Metropolitan Region, there
17th century, Plakati with the Metamorpho- are other important monuments that com-
sis Monastery and the Monastery of the Vir- plement the ideological religious map. Oth-
gin Mary in Michla, as well as the important er notable monuments are the Monastery

Agios Georgios Kamitsanis Metropolitan Church of Agios Donatos

1100
Five Churches Kalamas River Osdina
Monastery of Panagia Ragiou

of Agios Dimitrios Kypselis with its amazing people in the pre-industrial era. The water-
architectural Catholic from the 13th centu- mills, which replaced the hand mills and the
ry, the unique Parga with its many churches animal-powered mills, perhaps are the most
and the Vlacherna Monastery, and the Poun- important discovery, after the wheel, that
ta Monastery, outside Kanallaki, the only ac- changed his life.
tive women’s monastery, where the tomb of The first historical evidence of the existence
Saint Paraskevi is located. of the watermills dates from the historian
Most of them, however, have the need for Stravon. The watermills were built at the
saving initiatives and maintenance in order edges of the rivers, and in places which were
to be highlighted and continue their history. protected from the floods. They were usu-
All the co-competent bodies must, without ally small, rectangular stone-built buildings
delay, take on their responsibilities and act covered with tiles, slabs or metal sheets. The
in this direction. watermills, whose traces are all over Greece,
When it comes to traditional settlements are over 20000. After the revolution of 1821
and sustainable developments, we couldn’t and the establishment of the New Greek
omit the restoration work of the two water- State, there was a record of 6000 watermills.
mills in our region: First, the watermill of the 5500 of them were Turkish and were brought
Duma family in Kristallopigi, Paramythia and to the Greek state, which gave them or rent-
the watermills of the Balaura family in Rizo, ed them to private citizens. The profession
Filiates. of the miller was one of the most lucrative of
The watermill is the first work machine, this pre-industrial era. The operation of the
which humans made to take advantage of watermills was particularly high during July
the renewable energy sources. The dynamic and August, after harvesting. Then the mill-
energy, produced by the drop of water, with ers worked day and night. The watermills
the help of this machine, turns into kinetic were directly connected with the social life,
energy. This energy puts in motion simple since it was the place where a large number
machines in the beginning, and more com- of people from the surrounding villages was
plex ones later on, meeting the needs of gathered. There, they exchanged news from

11
the surrounding areas and commented on environment and nature. The entire complex
the events that took place. Agreements on of watermills is an excellent folk architecture
work and affairs were made in the mill. monument. At the top of the complex stands
Following the structure of a common mill, the water tower which is 12 meters high.
we observe that on the upper house there Many of these buildings before restoration
was the house of the miller which consist- were half deserted, abandoned and dipped
ed of a room with a fireplace. There, the in the bushes and mosses and hardly anyone
tired passer-by, the hunter, and every kind suspected that these were buildings. In the
of “hunted” man found shelter. Due to the centre of the complex, just below the water
long-lasting use of the watermill through tower, there is the gristmill. On the ground
the centuries, fictional legends and stories floor there is the gristmill and on the first
have been falsified. For this reason, peo- floor the house of the miller. They have been
ple believed that the mills were inhabited interventions on the exterior of the building
by ghosts, goblins, witches and all kinds of and extensions on the first floor.
elves. In our area, there are many watermills On the ground floor of the gristmill, there
along the Acheron and Kalamas rivers and is one big entrance for the animals, loaded
their tributaries. Others have been restored with grains to enter, and an exit door. The
and others are in ruins. parts of the flour mill and its function pres-
The operation of a watermill is relatively sim- ent great interest. Its function is based on a
ple, and is based on a series of transmitted series of transmitted movements.
moves. The water is flowing to the mill from Restoration work carried out is as follows.
the flume with momentum, and empowers In the gristmill, externally and internally,
the paddle wheel. As it turns, it moves on an the walls were cleaned with sandblasting
axis, which in turn, turns the runner stones. to reveal the masonry. All the walls were fit-
As stated above, we dealt with two watermill ted with a strong mortar. The floor level was
complexes of our region. The first is the mill formed, and it was over -coated with thick,
complex of the Duma family in Kristallopigi white porcelain slabs. Parts of the input and
in Paramythia, and the second the complex output doors were removed for the purpose
mill of Balaura family in Rizo in Filiates. Dur- of restoring them to the former condition
ing the stage of their study and restoration and wooden doors were built. Wooden pan-
we have strictly adhered to the principles of els were placed on the ceiling of the gristmill
environmental protection and respect for and the marble outdoor staircase was re-
history and tradition. placed with stones.
The DUMA family’s mill complex is located The steel roof at the home of the miller was
about 1500 meters away from the Kristal- replaced with a roof made of wooden tiles
lopigi springs in Paramythia, where there and four parallel reinforcement of the build-
are the headwaters of the mythical Kokitos ing’s load bearing structure. The entrance of
river. The initial owner and manufacturer of the house and the windows were replaced
the mill was the Italian engineer Pristinelas, with wooden window frames, and safety
οr else called Frangos. It was later sold to the rails were installed on the windows. Also,
Turks, and after the liberation from the Otto- various parts of the grist mill were filled in
mans, it came down to the Duma family. Its order to operate properly.
historical route begins in the 18th century, The outer walls of the floor were coated
and more particularly in 1715. and painted in auburn (color of tiles). In the
The entire building complex consists of 7 dif- gristmill area and to the west side, there is
ferent buildings, of various geometrical di- a ground floor building, with a single roof,
mensions, tied together harmoniously. They where nozzles operate. In the past, the
are perched on a green hillside, below shad- housewives, in the villages, were weaving
owy plane trees, harmoniously tied to the onto the loom. These woven fabrics (flanked

12
rugs, capes, blankets), and all the clothes of economic and social life of the place. The
the loom were shuffled with the rotational nozzle is a cone-shaped wooden bin. It looks
vortex to become more fluffy and soft. like a large barrel, which is buried deep into
In the pre-industrial era in Greece, the noz- the soil so that it is safe. Today’s nozzles are
zles and the water mills were the most com- troughs of concrete in the soil.
mon hydro-powered installations. They The restoration work in the nozzles was the
have made a significant contribution to the replacement of the roof, the reinforcement

Watermill Duma
and the cleaning of the masonry as well as porting body of stonework was strength-
laying the floor with white thick slabs. ened. The floor was overcoated with thick,
In the lower part of the complex, descending white slabs.
one large stone staircase, there is the build- Next to the gristmill there is the warehouse,
ing where the mandane is installed. The ba- where clothes were kept. In this building, all
sic function of the mandane is as follows: the walls of stonework were revealed and
The water, through the impeller, drives four were cleaned with sandblasting, and the
pestles. They are heavy wooden hammers roof was replaced with a new wooden tile
which rhythmically beat the woolen cloths, roof. A heavy, wooden door was placed at
intended for jackets, trousers, capes, etc to the entrance and showcases for the exhibits
tighten the knots and thread and give them and wooden beads for the visitors were con-
durability. Mandane has a special manufac- structed. Next to the flour mill, there is the
turing interest since all of its components warehouse with the flour.
are wooden. The masonry of this building was cleaned
In this area all the stoneworks were cleaned of the grooves, the floor was coated with
with sandblasting and grooved with high tiles and wooden frames were placed. At the
strength mortar. The roof was replaced with back of the gristmill, there are two buildings
a single-sided wooden tile roof and the sup- which have historical value.

14
Watermill Balaura
Grika Bridge

It is a two-storey building, where on the family located at Rizo, Filiates in a lush forest
ground floor there is a vaulted construction of ancient trees, there are two buildings on
and on the floor there is a large room with the right and left side of the road leading to
a fireplace. On the ground floor they stored Rizo. These water mill buildings before the
the tobacco after the necessary processing interventions were in a semi-ruined-condi-
was done. The floor was a guest house for tion.
passers-by and customers of the mill. The In the building where there is the flour mill,
other building on the ground floor was used the home of the miller was added which
as a storage place for the rice. In this build- communicates with the gristmill with a
ing, there were reinforcements on masonry wooden staircase. Wooden frames were
bearing body. The roof was replaced, doors placed and the building was coated with a
and wooden windows were placed and the quadruple wooden tiled roof. The flume and
floors were coated with white, thick slabs. the hopper were replaced. The building be-
Interventions also took place in the exteri- low the street was in the same condition as
or area of the complex. Walls and benches the building of the flour mill. On the ground
were repaired, yards and stairs were paved floor of the building there was the estab-
and all the damages were restored. Trails lishment of the nozzle. A floor was added
were made to allow the visitor to reach all which was the house of the miller and it was
the laces and especially its highest point, the formed and has been repaired appropriately
water tower. to host exhibits of our folk culture. Around
The whole complex has been illuminated the surroundings, necessary interventions
to highlight a great cultural heritage of our were made so that the place can be visited.
country. All the above studies and work have Watermills are monuments of our popular
been funded by the ROPs of Epirus. cultural heritage and as such they require
Regarding the other mill, the mill of Balaura the interest of the state and all of us.

15
THE WORLD OF
SCATTERED FARMS IN
HÓDMEZŐVÁSÁRHELY

THE HISTORY OF
HÓDMEZŐVÁSÁRHELY 18

THE NETWORK OF SCATTERED


FARMS AS THE TYPICAL FORM OF
SETTLEMENTS ON THE GREAT
HUNGARIAN PLAIN 20

THE FORMATION AND


DEVELOPMENT OF THE WORLD OF
SCATTERED FARMS IN VÁSÁRHELY 23

THE FORMATION OF THE


FARMSTEAD CENTRES 26
Székkutas 26

HÓDMEZŐ- Kardoskút-Pusztaközpont
Mártély
26
27

VÁSÁRHELY – ARTIFICIAL FARMSTEAD CENTRES 27

HUNGARY
Ba da 27
Erzsébet 27
Kútvölgy 27
Szikáncs 27
Rárós 27

Wri en by PRIVATE AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS OF


Gábor Palotás THE WORLD OF SCATTERED FARMS 28
János Palotás Farmsteads: buildings for living and
(Founda on of Knowledge, Hódmezővásárhely, farming 28
Hungary) Farmstead Museum in Kopáncs 29
Farmsteads of our days in the outskirts
Photos: of Vásárhely 31
Piroska Guest House 31
Gábor Palotás

16 aurore 16
READING CIRCLES 31

SCHOOLS 32
The school in Csomorkány 32
The school in Bodzáspart – open-air school 33
The school in Mártély 33
The school in Sóshalom, reading circle 34
The school in Mátyáshalom 34

WINDMILLS 35
Papi wind-mill 36
Imre Késmárki wind-mill 36
Piroska wind-mill 37

CHURCHES 38
Szent Adorján-templom (St. Adrian/Hadrian’s Church) 38
Szent Mihály-templom (St. Michael’s Church) 38
Székkutasi Református Egyházkösség temploma
(Church of Székkutas Calvinist Church District) 39
Kardoskúঞ evangélikus templom
(Lutheran Church of Kardoskút) 39
Csomorkányi templomrom
(Csomorkány church-ruin) 42

RAILWAY STATIONS 28
Railway staঞon in Mártély 42
Railway staঞon in Székkutas 42

REFERENCES 42

Coat of arms of Hódmezővásárhely

17
came disordered for a long time and it was
THE HISTORY OF only in 1552 that it became part of the ter-
HÓDMEZŐVÁSÁRHELY ritory under Turkish rule, which surrounded
it. During two later military expeditions of
the Turkish the area was devastated by Tar-
Hódmezővásárhely can be found in the tar predatory troops and as a result of this
south-eastern part of Alföld (Great Hungari- several villages belonging to Vásárhely such
an Plain) at a distance of about 180 km from as Fecskés, Földvár and Solt in 1566, Batida,
Budapest. It has the second largest area Csomorkány, Férged, Gorzsa, Körtvélyes,
(487,98 km2) and its population is 44795 Mágocs, Sámson, Szőlős, Pereskutas, Rárós,
(2015). Rétkopáncs, Tótkutas and Újváros in 1596,
The history of the town goes back to the Arpa- became depopulated and disappeared for
dian age (10-13th centuries). In the 14th cen- ever. Hódmezővásárhely might have been
tury the villages of Hód and Vásárhely were able to remain due to its location near
joined and by this Hódmezővásárhely came Lake Hód and it became the only perma-
to being by the former Lake Hód and in 1446 nently populated settlement in the whole
it was awarded the rank of a market-town surrounding lowland plain. This fact con-
by János Hunyadi, governor, landlord of the tributed significantly to its further growth
territory at that time. “Market-towns (or op- concerning population and size.
pidium) is characteristic form of settlements At margin areas Turkish administration did
in the territory of Hungary including the not make efforts to obtain absolute suprem-
Great Hungarian Plain. Having gained privi- acy, they were satisfied with keeping mili-
leges from their landlords they composed a tary power and collecting taxes. Vásárhely,
kind of transition between villages of serfs being a “khas” town, was allowed to pay
and free royal towns. Their basic privilege taxes for the Turkish vilajet in a more fa-
was the right of keeping fairs and their name vourable way, which was once a year in one
suggested that, being located on open are- amount. Besides this it also paid taxes to the
as, fields just like villages, were not allowed landowners, who were parts of the Hungar-
to build town-walls. At some places they ian ad-ministration surviving and existing
were surrounded by entrenchment or board parallel with the Turkish rule. Although this
fence.” (Mrs. Gál, 2016) double-taxing was an exhausting burden
After 1541 when the country got torn into for the town, among these unclear mano-
three parts the situation of the town be- rial conditions it was able to save its mar-

18
ket-town authority entirely and even to ac- gion. From that time on economic develop-
quire new ones. These were the following: ment created a particular settlement-shape
independent provision over cultivation of instead of the former one liquidated in Turk-
the land and independent jurisdiction. In a ish times: an expanded area of scattered
rather strange way it was the liquidation of farms was formed, which made a better ag-
the Turkish supremacy in the 17th century ricultural use of the land possible and dur-
and driving out of the Turkish that caused ing the times it became the dwelling-place
the greatest financial danger as it was near- of thousands of people.
ly completely destroyed and it also became Following the compromise of 1867, in 1873,
depopulated for years. it became a municipal town with a continu-
It was only after the fall of the war of inde- ously growing population. In 1890 it was the
pendence of Rákóczi (1711) that a longer fourth densely populated town of the coun-
peaceful period came. Károlyi family, who try (with a population of 60,883 in 1900).
became landowners in1722, guaranteed the As a result of the consequences of the con-
further autonomous development of the structional “boom” the outlook of the town
town and ensured freedom of Calvinist reli- changed considerably during the age of du-

19
alism. In spite of this it preserved its appear-
ance of a market-town: the central area of THE NETWORK
the town was surrounded with a vast world
of scattered farms.
OF SCATTERED
After World War II and the settling down of FARMS AS THE
the communist rule powerful industriali-
zation was started involving mainly light TYPICAL FORM OF
industry, agricultural machinery and food
industry. The life of those living in scattered
SETTLEMENTS
farms was greatly influenced by forced col-
lectivization meaning the incorporation of
ON THE GREAT
the land of small-holders, the demolishing HUNGARIAN PLAIN
of the world of scattered farms and the liq-
uidation of the conditions of life in scattered Detached farmsteads, whose first name was
farms. shelter, originally used to mean a hut or a
After the changing of the regime, in 1991 tent made by herdsmen or hunters built for
Hódmezővásárhely became a City with themselves on the pasture or in the wood.
County Rights. The political and economic Later, typically on the Great Plain, this name
changes led to the disintegration of industry was used for smaller farms that made the
in the town (the socialist large-scale indus- economic management of the land among
try collapsed). At the same time intensive the buildings possible. According to its
infrastructural development began with the classical interpretation the farmsteads are
aim of recreating the bases of industrial, ag- scattered, private-ly owned settlings with
ricultural, commercial and cultural develop- dwelling- and farm-buildings, lying in the sur-
ment. roundings of a vil-lage/community and mak-
ing the cultivation of lands in the outskirts
possible. According to its orig-inal meaning,

20
scattered farms used to be temporarily in- the free right of moving and inheritance.
habited at first, mainly during the summer They were allowed to employ cotters, who
periods while during winter-times they were owned neither land nor live-stock, on their
meant to help animals spending the winter. pastures and lands.” (Mrs. Gál, 2016.) At
Later on, when agriculture became more in- places where all this was not ensured (areas
tensive, scattered farms were converted into where socage conditions stayed for a long
the permanent dwelling-place of the farmer/ time) the same settlement-shaping process
smallholder and his family. that had existed in the peasant-towns on
Scattered farms appeared typically in the the Great Plain for one and half a centuries
wide outskirts of market-towns from the be- started only after the emancipation of serfs
ginning of the 18th century as small spots (1853).
populating the previously uninhabited low- “Taking the conditions of the 20th centu-
land plain, or “puszta”, used only for grazing ry as a starting-point, researchers of set-
up to the time, and drawing it into cultiva- tlement-geography as well as some of the
tion in a more and more intensive way. The historians used to believe for a long time
pre-condition of this course of proceedings that scattered farmsteads came into being
was the landed property of peasants or at through the decay/disorganization of “huge
least the possibility of farming lease ensur- villages”, which were formed during the
ing free use of the land. “Market-towns re- Turkish rule and had wide boundary and
deemed land from land-lords uniformly so through the people’s “settling apart”. At the
the right of possession was enforced by the same time farmsteads were considered to be
town community. (…) The so-called civis scattered settlements inhabited permanent-
society consisted of smallholders, wealthy ly, that is the categories of the European set-
peasant farmers and free citizens, who had tlement systems were adapted to them. Lat-

21
er, especially after the researches of István production ap-peared). The owners of
Győrffy and Ferenc Erdei, it became clear these farmsteads still did not become
that farmsteads used to be parts of the exter- permanent dwellers there but hired la-
nal boundary of the divided peasant-town”. bourers did, and they spent the whole
(Sources: Települési szórványok – Tanyák) year living there cultivating plants and
The formation of scattered farms breeding animals in the summer and
• Middle of 17th–19th centuries: Scattered looking after the animals in the winter.
farms are lodgings belonging to mar- • The beginning of 20th century – 1945: As
ket-towns and were formed at places a result of the more intensive agriculture
where agricultural areas were far from farmers owning land started to move
the town and it was impossible to cul- there. By this the social circle of those
tivate the land and supply animals with living there permanently was created.
food by commuting there daily. Farmers They were no more connected to city-life
used to build lodgings for themselves for in the same way as farmers of the previ-
their stay during the time of agricultural ous cycle.
work (that is from spring to autumn) and • 1945–1990: Changes came in two direc-
having finished work (after harvest) they tions in this period. As a result of the
returned to their houses in the town. distribution of land after World War II
• 1850 – the end of 19th century: Agri- 75000 scattered farms were built typi-
cultural production became more and cally on small and medium-sized peas-
more intensive resulting the necessity of ant estates (5-10 holds: 1 hold equals
spending more time in scattered farms 0,57 hectares/1,42 English acres). After
(keeping animals in sheds/stables in- 1950 power-ful collectivization started
stead of grazing, growing hoed plants, resulting these estates becoming parts
besides growing of corn, wine and fruit of co-operatives and disap-pearance of a

22
huge proportion of the scattered farms. animals on land given by landowners and
• From 1990: Scattered farms have their later on they started cultivating the land on
Renaissance. This can be connected these animal-keeping shelters. Grazing went
with the restart of the privately-owned on pastures on the “puszta”, animals stayed
agricultural production, but at the same in the scattered farms only in the winter.
time a lot of people buy estates with During that time farmers used to live in the
farmsteads with the aim of recreation town, farm hands and/or single members
(weekend or free-time farmsteads, but of the family took care of the animals. By
“farmstead-tourism” as a service has 1761 a vast system of scattered farms was
also appeared). formed around the town, which can be ob-
served well on the first military map of the
area made between 1780-1784. A character-
THE FORMATION istic feature of this period is that farming ac-
tivity moved to the outskirts, but social life
AND DEVELOPMENT stayed in the centre of the town. The area of
OF THE WORLD OF scattered farms and the town had a strong
connection between them, the owners lived
SCATTERED FARMS IN their (civil) life in the town, but their agricul-
tural activity was done in the areas outside
VÁSÁRHELY the town. The odd thing in this type of settle-
ment structure is the lack of villages (where
Farming in scattered farms goes back to social life and farming is not separated, but
the beginning of 18th century in Hód- in unity).
mezővásárhely. Serfs (villeins) used to keep In the second stage of development keeping

23
animals in sheds/stables spread instead of that the town remained the only scene of so-
the grazing (extensive) method. This way cial life. Beyond their families, people living
of farming required somebody (farm hand, in the outskirts were bound to the church,
member of family, etc.) to stay permanently holidays/feasts and fairs/markets. At the
in the farmstead. In this period farmsteads same time they often did not have any rela-
had already become permanent dwell-ing- tionship with their own neighbours.
places of those working there. So the dou- In the third stage of development the inten-
ble-type way of life, which was so typical sive way of cultivation continued, the world
previously, disappeared. During this time, of scattered farms did not increase with
after the constitutional emancipation of new land. Having inherited the property the
serfs, cultivation became even more inten- young farmer moved to the farmstead with
sive and because of this more workers were his family as he had no house in the town.
needed in scattered farms resulting in the Farmsteads used to be found scattered in
growing number of farmsteads and those the outskirts of Vásárhely, lying about 1-3
living there. This process was promoted by kms from each other. Their connection with
the regula-tion of River Tisza, the draining the town became looser and looser and con-
and ceasing of the wet flood areas, which led nection with all those living in the outskirts
to the radical growing of the outskirts of the became stronger and stronger. People living
town as well as the growing number of scat- in scattered farms were mostly from among
tered farms. There were more and more fam- the poor, for them raising the claim to hav-
ilies living in farmsteads, who did not own a ing a house in the town appeared in their old
house in the town, they were only con-nect- ages.
ed to the town through their families (par- In the 1920’s and 1930’s there used to be
ents, relatives). It is important to mention 5517 scattered farms in an area of 132000

24
cadastral yokes/acres (= 6823.95 square square foot) could be left for the use of those
yards = 1.412 acres) in the outskirts of Hód- living there. Between 1957 and 1987 it was
mezővásárhely. Size of estates: prohibited to build or reconstruct scattered
• most of them were between 5-50 holds farms. Farmstead centres were assigned for
(1 hold = 0.57 hectares or 1.42 English people living there. Together with the disap-
acres), pearance of possibilities for life and work,
• only 21 estates were of 200-1000 holds, migration started from the farmsteads to the
• there was no estate with a bigger area farmstead centres, villages and towns where
than 1000 holds. people could find possibilities for living and
workplaces. Cultivation on farm-steads was
After 1945 as a result of the agrarian re- replaced by large-scale production in co-op-
form 1066 families were given land in Hód- eratives. People living there found jobs ei-
mezővásárhely, 6022 cadastral yokes/acres ther there or in the industrial works and
were shared out among them (the average factories of cities. As a consequence of this
size being 5 holds). They built new farms on the deserted farmsteads (which were mostly
their estates (in 1950 there used to be about built of adobe) started to decay.
7000 scattered farms around the town). In the 1980’s changes came in this process,
The world of scattered farms around Hód- which, after the transformation of the polit-
mezővásárhely was condemned to death by ical system (1990), became stronger. In the
the collectivization (creation of Soviet-type beginning people living in the town bought
co-operatives) starting in 1948 (and last- farmsteads to use them as weekend-hous-
ing until 1960). Lands around the scattered es or to have hobby-gardens, etc. and after
farms were regrouped (ploughed into one) 1990 there were possibilities again for pri-
and only an area of 800-1600 square-fath- vate-farming, which brought positive chang-
oms (one square-fathom = 3,57 m2 = 38,32 es for the conditions of farmsteads as well.

25
Farmstead-types of our days in Hód- station it was suitable for the role of a farm-
mezővásárhely: stead centre. In 1914 26 building sites were
• farmsteads for living: people living there parceled out, houses were built on them,
do not do any production, they work in which became the centre of the later settle-
the town or somewhere else, only live in ment. The village started to develop during
the farmstead, the 1950’s partly because of the fact that the
• smallholders’ farmsteads: the owners communist direction considered it to be a
produce for their own needs, make their socialist model village.
own living at another workplace or are
pensioners,
• farmsteads for tourists: the owners pro- Kardoskút-
vide touristic services for inhabitants
of town interested in village and coun-
Pusztaközpont
try-life,
• farmstead farms: with actual agricultural Also in 1892 the administrative unit start-
production. ed its work in similar conditions in Pusz-
taközpont lying at a distance of 5 kms from
the present-day Kardoskút. In 1893, at the
THE FORMATION railway-line between Orosháza and Mezőh-
OF THE FARMSTEAD egyes, a railway-station was constructed
in Kardoskút, where a platform for loading
CENTRES pigs and cattle was also built (from this time
on animals from the farmstead centre were
By the turn of the 19th-20th centuries three transported here). Neither the centre in
farmstead centers had developed: Székku- Székkutas nor the one in Kardoskút worked
tas, Kardoskút and Mártély, which became
independent villages later on and sepa-
rated from the administrative area of Hód-
mezővásárhely. Because of these changes
the area of the town decreased with 48000
cadastral yokes/acres and the population
with 10000 people. In all the three cases the
double role of the developing railway (and
railway stations) and the churches can be
observed: they are signs of the advanced
stage of settlements and promoted them to
become independent.

Székkutas
From 1892 a transferred administrative unit
started its work in the settlement, which had
the name Vásárhelykutas at that time. The
civil-servant, the doctor and the veterinary
coming from the town spent two or three
days weekly at a rented farmstead. Later
on gendarme service was also established.
Székkutas lies near the railway-line between
Szeged and Békéscsaba and with its railway

26
during World War I. Work there started again farmstead centre. Batida is lying in the flood
(together with the one in Mártély) only in area of River Tisza, which area had been
1921. In 1949 Kardoskút became an inde- drawn into agricultural cultivation after the
pendent community. Oil and gas fields were regulation of the river. The co-operative,
found in its neighbourhood, it is lying on the Gorzsai Állami Gazdaság (at present: Gorzsai
terri-tory of the Körös-Maros National Park, Mezőgazdasági Zrt.), was established rela-
Lake Fehér, the place of rest for birds of pas- tively early.
sage, that is cranes, is situated in this area.

Erzsébet
Mártély
Before the Tartar invasion there used to exist
It started working in 1921. It is situated 7 kms a village called Erzsébet in this area. Its soil
from Hódmezővásárhely so a strong connec- is far in quality behind that of Batida. During
tion was created between Mártély and the the time of development a school, a nursery
town. Because of the dead arm of River Tisza school and a house of culture was built. Peo-
Mártély is an important resort-place for peo- ple could find jobs in the local co-operative.
ple living in the town. The colony of artists
which is working efficiently there is an im-
portant link for both sides. Kútvölgy
Building up of the farmstead centre began
ARTIFICIAL at the end of 1949. In the 1920’ a tuberculo-
sis sanatorium was built in Kútvölgy, but it
FARMSTEAD CENTRES did not have a real contact either with local
people or with the farmstead centre. It oper-
In 1949 (taking the points of the socialist ag- ated as a set out part of the hospital of Hód-
ricultural reorganization into consideration) mezővásárhely (later on it was transformed
they took the measure of the areas which into a home for the aged).
could be suitable for new farmstead centres.
In Hódmezővásárhely, about 7-10 kms from
each other, five such centers were marked Szikáncs
out (Batida, Erzsébet, Kútvölgy, Rárós,
Szikáncs). Four of them were built, but the It can be found in the flood area of River
fifth, Rárós, was not. Having made the deci- Tisza and River Maros being used as a pas-
sion the new farmstead centres were built at ture and hay-field. Considering traffic it has
the beginning of the 1950’s in a short time, a good position, both the high road going
within about 2-3 years. These artificially cre- to Makó and the railway line pass the farm-
ated settlements were rather similar in their stead centre.
appearance: chessboard-like arrangement
with public institutions on the main square
and living-houses can be found in the paral- Rárós
lel streets opening from there. The inhabit-
ants worked mostly in the local co-opera- It used to be an active settlement until 1456,
tives. later on it decayed. The indicated farmstead
centre did not possess the infrastructure
necessary for the process of construction
Batida (building materials, transport, etc.) so peo-
ple were unwilling to move there and as a
In the 12th century there used to exist a set- result of this the centre was not built.
tlement called Gorzsa on the territory of the

27
terials indicated a difference in rank and
PRIVATE AND wealth, too and at the same time the world
PUBLIC BUILDINGS of construction was not sharply different in
towns and scattered-farms. On the other
OF THE WORLD OF hand as time passed, development in build-
ing technology could be detected in the out-
SCATTERED FARMS skirts as well, cob walls were replaced by
walls made of adobe bricks and in-stead of
roofs covered with reeds there were more
Farmsteds: buildings and more roofs covered with tiles.
From first to last economical and reasona-
for living and farming ble shaping and maintenance stayed a basic
aim as this could result people living there in
Buildings in the boundary originally used to being able to get a house in the town in their
have the purpose of protecting animals or old ages passing the scene of work and life
to serve for feeding them, that is pigsties, in the farmstead to the younger generation.
barns, sheds, etc. However quite early lodg- Permanence is even more typical consider-
ings-like buildings appeared as well (firstly ing the arrangement by their ground-plan
only for the personnel supplying animals and their functional form: the most wide-
with food or for the random ac-commoda- spread type of the Hungarian popular ar-
tion of the farmer). These buildings of the chitecture, the so-called middle-Hungarian
beginning presumably used to consist of kind of houses, characteristic of the whole
one single unit and later on they might have area of the Great Plain was the most typi-
been equipped with an oven (making per- cal. Besides the use of materials mentioned
manent stay possible in winter-time). During earlier, which was supposed by the natural
the following history of development, with sources of the Great Plain, its determining
animal-keeping becoming more and more character was its division into three parts.
intensive and with the start of ploughland The central element was the kitchen, first
cultivation, the buildings made permanent with an oven and later with a range. It could
staying more and more possible and in the be preceded by the porch functioning as a
end they became the permanent lodgings hall opening from the direction of the en-
for whole families. According to this farm- trance located in the middle of the side of
steads had been enlarged by the 18th-19th the house. The rooms opened in two direc-
centuries or had been built to a function- tions from here or directly from the kitchen.
al arrangement, which had met these de- One of them was meant for the guests (clean
mands. room) while the other served as the sleeping
Architecturally neither dwelling-houses nor place for the whole family. The main scene
farm-buildings brought anything new com- of family-life was the kitchen, which, besides
pared with the general popular building cooking, was the spot of eating meals and
practice, although in the course of time they common family programmes that were of-
differed more and more from the houses of ten in connection with economic activities.
wealthy farmers having burnt-brick facades This basic type could be enlarged backwards
and dry gateway built in close order. These often with the help of a further kind of hall
differences, however could be noticed in through the porch, which was made closed
the towns as well: most of the houses built or left open.
inside the towns kept the characters of vil- The arrangement beyond the above men-
lage-houses thus keeping the relationship tioned mostly differed from those in vil-
with the buildings of the scattered-houses. lages or towns because the farming estate
The use of more simple and traditional ma- itself had a different form, size and bases,

28
even the typical buildings were situated in other ends of the farmstead were also often
a different way than in the more densely built in result-ing a U-shaped or frame-like
populated, more urbanized surroundings. arrangement. These buildings with a width
While in the classic settlement-types with of 5-6 metres followed each other in a rea-
traditional development the street was the sonable system, without any complicated
primary organizing system: houses joined connection and preserving their shape with
it uniformly with or without a front-garden, saddle-like roofs and gables.
typically in a vertical system, built on one of
the estate border or in a closed line, for farm-
steads built within the estate central posi- Farmstead Museum in
tion seemed the most ideal from the very Kopáncs
beginning and so they were much larger and
mostly square-shaped, lying at a huge dis- • Kopáncs: 01521/2 topographical num-
tance from each other. So the “puszta” was ber.
inhabited with even density and only a small • 6800 Hódmezővásárhely-Kopáncs, farm-
area was left even for locally appearing de- stead No. 3440
velopment of urbanization. • GPS: 20,262 46,377
In the middle of the occupied farming es- • Telephone: +36 (62) 533 317: +36 (62) 533
tate there was the yard, in whose (typically 318, +36 (30) 506 0780
north) side the dwelling-house was locat- • Opening hours: 13:00-17:00 between
ed and usually the stables, pigsties of an- 15th March and 15th October
imals could be found near them, in a row
according to their sizes. On the other side It belongs to Tornyai János Museum in Hód-
of the farm other farm-buildings were built mezővásárhely. Kovács-farmstead, which
in a similar row: feedstuff, manure, etc. The was built around 1890, was restored in ac-

29
cordance with the conditions of the 1920’s. endi, ethnographic researcher, said: “The
The small-holder’s farmstead of six holds (1 aim was to create a place where interesting
hold = 0,57 hectares or 1,42 English acres) programmes, which are important both for
dealt with cultivation of corn and ani- families and for Hungarian culture, could
mal-breeding. The living house consists of be held. The exhibition calls the attention
a room, a kitchen and a pantry with a large to the fact that farmsteads were not mere-
earth-enware oven shaped like a rick. The ly farming centres. It passes the intellectual
following farm-buildings can be found there: treasure and knowledge possessed by our
a stable for horses and cattle, a shed with a forefathers.”
roof, a summer manger, a granary for crops, Tibor Szenti said in his opening speech:
a barn for storing maize, a granary, pigsties “People used to be self-supplying: they pro-
and henhouses, a shadoof and a coach- duced raw materials necessary for crafts
house. In the stable and in the shed added – from leather to wood-carving everything
to it all the working tools of a farmstead can was made by them – they produced food-
be found. (Source: Kopáncsi Tanyamúzeum, stuff for the animals and had a good knowl-
Hódmezővásárhely) edge of agriculture. This wonderful area was
The museum opened in 1975. All the furni- called Mother Earth”, said the ethnographer
ture, equipment and fittings, working tools underlining the importance of family ties:
which it is fitted with were collected by Tibor “under one roof a generation with one more
Szenti and Antal Juhász, ethnographic re- bread used to live.” (Source: Hagyományőr-
searchers, from existing farmsteads. ző programokkal nyílt meg a Kopáncsi Ta-
The farmstead museum had been recon- nyamúzeum)
structed from 50 million forints and it was
reopened on 24th May 2015. Victoria Ter-

30
Farmsteads of our READING CIRCLES
days in the outskirts István Széchenyi was one of the greatest ini-
of Vásárhely tiators of the reading circles taking western,
mostly English and German patterns as ex-
There are still a lot of people living in the amples, but their importance and mainly the
world of scattered houses even in our days: need for they establishment remained even
they do farming, use them for recreation, with the end of the reform age and the fall
cultivate hobby-gardens, provide touristic of the war of independence both in cultural
services, etc. and in political sense. It was especially true
in Vásárhely, where their stage of organiza-
tion and spread was perhaps the highest. For
Piroska Guest House the more wealthy there used to be different
kinds of associations such as casinos in the
• Sándor Kenéz second half of the 19th century. In the world
• 6821 Székkutas, I. ker. 23. of scattered farms reading circles used to
• Telephone: +36 62 293189, +36 20 represent the only social organizing power
4422003 resulting the formation of closer neighbour-
• E-mail: piroska.puszta@freemail.hu hood relations and common representation.
• Web: Piroska vendégház Reading circles subscribed to magazines to-
gether and their members could read them
or they read out for each other as reading
skills were not general. Besides these they
organized events, had lectures, organized
communities. They were spread quite even-
ly with one in every 2-5 square-kilometre
and could be found in the neighbourhood of
schools, which were spread similarly or were
built together with those.
Architecturally they did not have any homo-
geneous organizing principle as they were
established individually, on self-contained
initiatives. Presumably they could be trans-
formed from simple farm-stead-buildings,
which in the second half of the 20th centu-
ry either got inhabited again or started their
slow decay, perhaps were demolished.

31
established. In the second half of the 20th
SCHOOLS century the role of schools in the scattered
farm area was pushed into the background
In the area of scattered farms the first schools and by the end of the 80’s, beginning of the
established in 1855, thanks to the town, “in 90’s nearly all of them were closed, many of
Rárósi and Erzsébeti roads as well as on the them transformed or even pulled down.
Mártély side”, says Sámuel Szeremlei, one Several of the buildings which stayed in
of the historians of the town. Presumably in good condition were restored and given a
the case of the Rárósi school this refers to suitable function, mostly in connection with
the Szőrháti, in the case of the Erzsébeti to their original purpose, during the past years.
the Cirjákparti (later inner Erzsébeti) and in This happened in the case of the schools in
the case of Mártély to the Tegehalmi schools Sóshalom, Bodzapart as well as Mártély (and
or their predecessors, at least sources from hopefully the building in Mátyáshalom, dis-
1858 seem to prove this. During the follow- ordered for the time being, is facing a simi-
ing decades the number of schools slow- lar restoration). Homogeneous external ap-
ly increased, the less suitable character of pearance and similar or completely unified
the buildings so typi-cal in the beginning ground-plan arrangement is typical of these
changed in the direction of standardization schools with protection as monuments as
according to their function, which meant if they really had been built on the basis of
that the new buildings had already been de- standard planning. A good explanation on
signed and built for school purposes. These this might be that except one all of them were
took the role of temporary rented properties built between 1903-1910, which was the pe-
in simple farmsteads, which were often too riod bringing the greatest prosperity (the
small. one in Mátyáshalom was built a few years
In the beginning schools were built and run earlier). Considering their outlook they can
by the town, but they were under church all be characterized with longitudinal mass,
supervision: besides the protestant the a simple saddle-like roof and unplastered
catholic church also took part in this task. brick-architecture with unified decoration
Schools built by the church only appeared on the eaves and along the ridge of the roof.
in the 1890’s, but supervision could be per- A permanent element is the shield of the
formed less and less successfully. There town that had built and maintained it made
were several so called black market schools, of ceramics and always placed in the middle
which was run by associations established of the longitudinal facade parallel with the
by parents. In the denominational and black street thus crowning the line of spacious ap-
market schools conditions were worse than ertures for windows.
the average and as a result of this in the last
decade of the 19th century people living in
farmsteads typically urged the establish-
ment of schools run either by the settlement
The school in
or by the state. Csomorkány
In 1903 every school, except for one, in the
town (22 owned by the town and 4 rent- • 46° 26’ 15,5” É - 20° 31’ 41,7” K (near the
ed properties) got inspected by the town, Csomorkányi church ruin)
but the maintainer remained the town and
building more new schools stayed the duty Teaching started in1906 in the school of
of the town. During this period processes ac- Csomorkány, in a rented building. The new
celerated and by 1910 teaching went on in school-building built near the church-ruin
36 schools already, 22 of which were newly was opened in October 1910. The last school-
built. This number increased to 48 by 1940 year finished in 1968-69 in the school. Then
and after the world war there more were 1 first-class, 1 second-class, 4 third-class and

32
It finally closed in 1986. In 2004 the build-
ing was restored from EU sources and in
our days it works as a unit of Varga Tamás
Általános Iskola / Tamás Varga Primary
School) “The old school lying in the green
belt and resounded only with warbling of
1 fourth-class student attended the school. birds gives place to several programmes of
The building was pulled down in 1973 and the school and the town for nature-lovers.”
only a monument shows its place in our (Source: Bodzásparti iskola)
days.

The school in Mártély


• Mártély, Fő utca 45. (45 Main street)

There is no data about its establishment, but


it used to work as a catholic school in 1878-
79 already. There had been a decision about
the construction of the present school-build-
The school in ing, which was com-pleted in 1907. (Source:
Koncz S. 2005)
Bodzáspart – open- In 2013 the old buildings were transformed
and an open-air school was made. There
air school is possibility for the accommodation of 42
people at the same time. Water-block and
• 3 kilometres from the end of Zrínyi street a lounge, a playground, a sportfield, a spot
• 46° 24’ 07” É - 20° 15’ 44” K for laying fire and an oven also belong to it.
• Telephone: +36 62 245 877 (Source: Erdei iskola)

It was built in 1906. Records about its estab-


lishment exist from the beginning of 1903.
(Source: Koncz S. 2005)

33
changed in January 1925 as it can be found
near Sóshalom and the railway station near
the school also had the same name). It can
be found 15km from the town near the road
between Hódmezővásárhely and Székkutas.
(Source: Koncz S. 2005)
It functioned as a school until 1985. Then
the Sóshalmi Reading Circle got a classroom
there where they can arrange programmes
even today. (Source: Átadták a megújult
Sóshalmi Olvasókört)

The school in The school in


Sóshalom, reading Mátyáshalom
circle • GPS: 46° 26’ 31,3” É - 20° 28’ 16” K

• Sóshalom: 0556/8-10 topographical It can be found 13 km from the town. Earlier


number it used to be called school in Csomorkány,
• Kutasi dűlő, Tanya 1627/farmstead No. school No. 2 in Csomorkány or school in the
1627 (near the road No 47 between Hód- outskirts of Csomorkány. It has been called
mezővásárhely and Székkutas) school in Mátyáshalom since 1898 as it is sit-
• GPS: N 46°, 28,728’ - E 20° 28,764’ uated at the end of a large unit of fields in
Mátyáshalom. The present-day building was
It was built in 1909. It is one of the most erected in 1900. (Source: Koncz S. 2005)
beautiful school buildings of the outskirts. In 2008 it became protected as a historic
In 1950 a second classroom was added. Until building. Today it is empty, falling into de-
the beginning of the 1920’s it used to be re- cay, in a bad need of renovation and get-
ferred to as Kutasi school, the name sóshal- ting a new function. (Source: Megújul a má-
mi was given to it only later (its name was tyáshalmi iskola)

34
the appearance of steam-mills, these (falling
WINDMILLS far behind the European trends) started to
spread in our country in a large number only
Windmills were the most monumental prod- very late. On the Great Plain, besides the av-
ucts of popular architecture in the area of eragely low level of industrialization, the lack
scattered farms around Vásárhely, whose of the railway-net also hindered the more
construction needed serious knowledge of devel-oped technology to become exclusive
carpentry and locksmith’s trade. A special as the coal needed had to be transported
trade, the trade of mill-masters, had been to the spot continuously. Although with the
created for their construction who were spe- time passing more and more steam-mills of
cialized for building them. In Hungary most great capacity were established and could
mills driven by wind were built between the produce flour and coarse meal more effec-
Rivers Duna and Tisza and in the southern tively (and without depending on the weath-
part of the territory east of the River Tisza. er), their number used not to be enough still
Their role was especially important in the for a long time and so they were not able to
outskirts of market-towns with wide areas meet the requirements of the inhabitants
around them where they appeared scattered living in scattered farms. Because of this the
evenly. They started to become wide-spread hegemony of the wind-mills stayed until the
at the beginning of the 19th century. In 1808 end of the 19th century. Around 1870 there
there used to be only 3 of them in the sur- were 47 of them and their number might
roundings of Hódmezővásárhely while the have increased one and a half times by the
number of ordinary mills was 86 and there end of the century and even in1924 at least
were 16 water (boat) mills. 21 of them were in function (more than half
In contradiction to ordinary mills driven by of them in scattered farms). With the com-
animals, windmills were based on wind as plete decline of the importance of wind-
free source of energy. As the work done with mills so profitable at earlier times, they were
the use of animals had to be paid for, the first let out by their wealthy owners and later
poor, who did not have any animals, could sold usually to the miller working there.
not have grinding done with their own ani- Considering their structure on the Great
mals and preferred cheaper grinding done Plain and in the surroundings of Vásárhely
in windmills. In connection with this having mostly the Dutch-type wind-mills with more
a windmill built was worth for the miller be- levels and with low or with the more modern
cause they got their money back through upper drive were spread, but less frequent
the increase of the business. types with middle-drive must have been
The spread of windmills accelerated highly built as well. In Vásárhely the mills were
in the second half of the 19th century trying typically built of bricks or at least the outer
to keep up with the prosperity of crop-grow- part of the adobe walling was trimmed with
ing, which started at that time. Although bricks because of the nearby brick-works.
mills driven by wind had a serious rival with The structure of the mill, from the shovels

35
to the inner mechanism, was made of wood Imre Papi, the last miller of the wind-mill
with iron contact elements at places. The near Erzsébeti road, had been able to make
number of the sails was typically four in this his living from this job until the end of the
area, the six-sail type was less spread here. 1950’s.
In the surrounding of Vásárhely 3 wind-
mills have remained: Papi wind-mill, Imre
Késmárki wind-mill and Piroska wind-mill.
It is only Papi wind-mill near Erzsébeti road
that has a safe future hav-ing protection as
a monument and being the property of the
town museum it can be visited in a con-di-
tion nearly ready for working even today.

Papi wind-mill
• Erzsébeti road: 0231/1 topographical
number (7 kms from Hódmezővásárhely)
• Hódmezővásárhely, Tanya 2310. (Farm-
The wind-mill is the exhibition area of Torn-
stead 2310)
yai János Museum. (Source: Papi-féle szél-
• GPS: 46.4104462215, 20.4612721572
malom)
• Telephone: +36 (62) 533 317, + 36 (62)
533 318 (it can be visited if registered)

It was built by Bálint Csánki in 1856. It got


Imre Késmárki wind-
into the possession of the Papi family in mill
1891. In 1962 it was declared a historic build-
ing. It is frustum of cone-shaped with four • Mártély, Tanya 24. (Farmstead 24)
sails and its lower diameter is 9,7 m, the up- • GPS: N 46° 29,216’ - E 20° 14,692’
per diameter is 5,6 m, the height of the walls • It is in a private area so it cannot be vis-
is 8,8 m, its roof can be turned round with ited
a radius of 3 m and a height of 2 m, cone-
shaped. In the inner structure of the mill It was built in the middle of the 19th centu-
there are four floors called as follows down- ry at a distance of about 1 km from the vil-
wards: gear wheel bench, fast-wheel bench, lage. Its owners (following the one who had
stone-bench, flour-bench. At the turn of the it built): Sándor Kis and then Imre Késmárki
19-20th centuries with the pushing forward (from1913 on) millers. The sail of the wind-
of the artificial mills, the importance of the mill broke in 1953 and it lost function. In
wind-mills working in the area of scattered 1966 Ferenc Szalai painter-artist living in
farms gradually decreased. In spite of this Hódmezővásárhely bought it. Its furniture

36
and fittings were kept and part of the mill-
er’s house located near it was transformed Piroska wind-mill
into a studio. (Source: Késmárki Imre-féle
szélmalom) • It can be found in the eastern outskirts of
Székkutas
• GPS: N 46° 30,488’ - E 20° 33,008’

Sándor Szabó, smallholder, built it on the


basis of a special style-design made by
Kálmán Leibert (the date is carved even in
the beam of the building). For a long time
local people called it Szabó wind-mill after
its owner. At the beginning of the 20th centu-
ry a shop and a workshop used to func-tion
near the mill. In 1892 the reading association
of Pusztakutas was formed in the mill. Occa-
sion-ally Hangya Szövetkezet (Co-operative
Ant) of Vásárhelykutas also had its meetings
there. In 1945 it was severely damaged in a
big storm. Until 1950 it still had worked with
electric motor. In the mill, which has no fit-
tings in our days, articles in connection with
the contemporary life of peasants can be
found. At present it is privately owned, but
its owner left i t to its fate. (Source: Java-
slat a „Szélmalom” Javaslat a „Szélmalom”
települési értéktárba történő felvételéhez)
The mill was made world-famous by the
book “Gyakran gondolok Piroskára / I often
think of Piroska” (Ich denke oft an Piroschka)
by Hugo Hartung, which appeared in 1954.
The mill together with the railway station is
an important scene of the book.

37
atheist state administration did not intend
CHURCHES to build any church buildings when desig-
ning the area of the artificial farmstead cent-
The four churches built in the area of scatte- res (1949-1950).
red farms around Vásárhely in the first part
of the 20th century mark the strongest focus
of development of settlements on the “pusz- St. Adrian / Hadrian’s
ta”: they appeared in the farmstead centres,
which originally developed from the mic- Church
ro-settlements of individual farm-steads, in
order to meet the religious requirements of • Mártély, Fő utca 70. (70 Main street)
the inhabitants increasing in their number • Telephone: +36 62 346 289
con-centratedly. Mártély, unlike the predo- • Personage: Mártély, Fő utca 66. (66 Main
minantly Calvinist Vásárhely, had always street)
stayed catholic so it obviously got a catholic
church. In Székkutas Calvinist and catholic The foundation-stone of the church had
churches were built at the same time while been laid in 1910. Its consecration was in
in Kardoskút, which is at a ddistance of 10 1911. Spiritual activity was provided from
km both from Tótkomlós and Orosháza, pro- Hódmezővásárhely. In 1930 it became an in-
bably due to the Slovakian roots of the po- dividual parish. In 1961 it was renewed and
pulation, a Lutheran church was built. After in 1962 electrified. Since 1975 service is be-
World War II, during the communist era, the ing delivered from outside again. (Source:
Szent Adorján-templom / St. Adrian/Hadri-
an’s Church)

St. Michael’s Church


• Székkutas, Szabadság utca 3. (3 Szabad-
ság street)
• Telephone: +36 62 228 052

It was built in 1924-25 and consecrated in


1925. It had been designed by Károly Kruzs-
licz, architect from Hódmezővásárhely, and
built by Ferenc Tóth Kovács, master-builder.
At the beginning spiritual service had been
delivered from Hódmezővásárhely. From
1st January 1928 registration was done in-
dependently and from 1st October 1936
the personage became independent. It was
renewed and enlarged on more occasions
(1956, 1965, 1975). In 1980 the church got a
new exterior (rock-flour coat of plaster, blue
tower-casque). In 2013 it had a complete
renovation (complete replacing of the out-
side plaster and the roof, entrance suitable
for the handicapped, parking place for the
handicapped, restoration of a part of the co-
lour(ed) glass windows) on EU support. In
1987 it stopped to be an individual parish, at

38
present service is delivered from Hódmező- (1 hold = 0,57 hectares or 1,42 English acres)
vásárhely. (Source: Szent Mihály-templom / to the church for the construction. Besides
St. Michael’s Church) him dozens of private persons and civilian
organizations supported its building. There
are seats for 200 people in the inner space
Church of Székkutas of 9 x 16 m. The organ was made by István
Barakovics in 1936. (Source: A székkutasi re-
Calvinist Church formátus templom 90 éve / 90-year history
District of the Calvinist church in Székkutas)

• Székkutas, Erkel Ferenc utca 22. (22 Fe-


renc Erkel street)
Lutheran Church of
• Telephone: +36 62 293 110 Kardoskút
The foundation-stone of the church had • Kardoskút, Tanya 303. (Farmstead No.
been laid on 23rd September 1925 and it 303)
was consecrated on 17th October 1926. Mi- • GPS: É 46° 29’ 49” - K 20° 41’ 59”
hály Elek donated his farmstead of 64 holds • Telephone: +36 68 412 402

39
Its foundation-stone had been laid in 1937 oped into a market town. In 1596 as a con-
and it was consecrated in 1938. In the coun- sequence of the Turkish ravage it had been
try it used to be the first Lutheran church in definitely destroyed and never again had it
the area of scattered farms. (Source: Kar- been rebuilt.
doskút - Evangélikus templom / Kardoskút The church of Csomorkány may have been
- Lutheran Church) constructed in the last third of the 13th cen-
tury in Ro-man style. At the turn of 13-14th
centuries it had been reconstructed and en-
Csomorkány church- larged in gothic style. It used to be a long,
narrow building with gothic reticulated vault
ruin and counterparts. After the ravage in 1596
the ruin was strengthened in the 1830’s.
• GPS: É 46° 24’ 51,75” - K 20° 21’ 18,43” The archeological digging up of the church
started in the last decade of the 19th century
The village of Csomorkány had been first and it has been restarted on more occasions
mentioned in documents in 1231. During the since then. (Source: Hódmezővásárhely-cso-
14th century the settlement being the land- morkányi egyház)
ed property of the Hunyadi-family devel-

40
41
RAILWAY STATIONS
At the end of the 19th century three new
railway-lines passing Hódmezővásárhely
and its outskirts were built: one main line
and two branch lines. The Szeged-Békés-
csaba section of the main railway-line No.
135 was opened in 1870 by the Alföld-Fiumei
Vasúttársaság (Alföld-Fiumei Railway Com- Railway station in
pany). Later, in1884 it became the property
of Magyar Királyi Államvasútak (Hungarian Székkutas
Royal Railway Company) because of the na-
tionalization of the private company. The • Székkutas, Béke utca 2. (2 Béke street)
Szentes-Hódmezővásárhely section of the • GPS: N 46° 30’ 14,64” - E 20° 32’ 27,58”
Szolnok-Hódmezővásárhely-Makó district
railway-line No. 130 (HÉV) opened in 1893 It was built in 1870 at the time of the opening
and the Hódmezővásárhely-Makó section of the railway-line between Szeged-Békés-
opened 10 years later in 1903. The last one, csaba. It is an important scene of the novel
the Orosháza-Mezőhegyes section of the “Gyakran gondolok Piroskára” (“I often think
Mezőtúr-Orosháza-Mezőhegyes-Battonya of Piroska”) by Hugo Hartung) (the main
line No. 125 opened in 1893 and the con- character is in love with the daughter of the
struction was completed by the Békési HÉV. stationmaster). (Source: Székkutas vasútál-
lomás)

Railway station in REFERENCES


Mártély
• János Bárth: Szállások, falvak, városok.
• Mártély, Kossuth utca 7. (7 Kossuth A magyarság települési hagyománya.
street) Kalocsa, 1996, Kalocsai Múzeumbarátok
• GPS: N 46,473293° - E 20,236157° Köre.
• Ferenc Erdei: Magyar tanyák. Budapest,
The building was made as the IV-class 1942, Athenaeum.
type-design of the HÉV special style-build- • Ildikó Horváth Gálné: A Hódmezővásár-
ings of year 1892, in 1893. The railway sta- hely környéki tanyák és tanyaközpontok
tion is in function in good technical state. a tér és idő összefüggésében. Budapest,
(Source: Mártély vasútállomás) 2016, ÉK Egyesület.

42
• István Györffy: A nagykún tanya. Buda-
pest, 1910, Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum.
• Helyi Érdekű Vasutak szabványtervei
(1–4.)
• Antal Juhász: A szegedi táj tanyái.
Szeged, 1989, Móra Ferenc Múzeum.
(A Móra Ferenc Múzeum évkönyve,
1982/83. 2.)
• Sándor Koncz: 150 éves a külterületei
iskoláztatás Hódmezővásárhelyen
• Mezőtúr–Orosháza–Mezőhegyes–Batto-
nya-vasútvonal
• István Nagy (főszerk.): Hódmezővá-
sárhely története a legrégibb időktől a
polgári forradalomig. I. köt. Hódmezővá-
sárhely, 1984, Hódmezővásárhely Városi
Tanács.
• Szeged–Békéscsaba-vasútvonal
• Szélmalmok
• Szélmalom
• Szenti Tibor: A tanya. Budapest, 1979,
Gondolat.
• Szolnok–Hódmezővásárhely–Makó-vas-
útvonal
• Típusépületek

43
PRESERVETION AND
SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT

PRESERVATION AND SUSTAINABLE


DEVELOPMENT 46

ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE –
ANCIENT TIME 47
The Roman Stadium 47
The Ancient Amphitheatre 47
The Odeon of Philippopolis 48
The Nebet Tepe Fortress 48
The Roman Aqueduct 49

ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE –
OLD TOWN 49
Kuyumdzhiev’s House 49
Balabanov’s House 50
Hindliyan’s House 51

PLOVDIV – Klian ’s House 51

BULGARIA
ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE –
MAIN STREET 52

ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE –
RELIGION 53
St. St. Konstan n and Elena church 53
„Sveta Nedelya” church 54
Wri en by The Holy Assump on Cathedral
Svetlana Mutafchieva (Uspenie Bogorodichno church) 54
(ASPECT – Management and Intercultural Relations, “Saint Ludvig” Catholic Cathedral 55
Plovdiv, Bulgaria) Dzhumaya Mosque 55
The Small Basilica of Philippopolis 55
Great Basilica of Philippopolis 56

ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE –
TOBACCO CITY 56

44 aurore 44
CRAFTS – KAPANA DISTRICT 56

CULTURE 57

ENTREPRENEURSHIP 57
Plovdiv Fair 57
Trakia Economic Zone 58

NATURAL RESOURCES IN PLOVDIV 58


Dzhendem Tepe (Youth Hill) 58
Bunarzhik (The Liberators Hill) 59
Sahat Tepe (Danov Hill) 59
Nebet Tepe, Dzhambaz Tepe, and Taksim Tepe - the Three Hills 60
Markovo Tepe (Hill of Marko) 60
The Rowing Canal (Rega a Venue) 60

PLOVDIV AREA 61
Winemaking 61
Bachkovo monastery 61
Assen’s fortress 62
Dairies 62

CREATING NEW TRADITIONS 62


PLOVEDIV 62
Milyo 62
Sasho Sweety 63
Plovdiv Together 63
GraffitI 63
The Seventh Hill 63

REFERENCES 63

Coat of arms of Plovidv

45
“Cultural and architectural heritage is an ly-inhabited city in Europe and the sixth old-
integral part of the social life of a place. est in the world. The city is situated amongst
Although social structures are constantly seven hills and is divided in two by the Mar-
developed, they are not necessarily contra- itza River. On three of the hills was build an
dicting core traditional values of a place. Architectural and historical reserve – The
Alternatively, opposing completely to core Old Town, which has preserved historical
values of the past and tradition, can dramat- layers from Prehistorical, Thracian, Hellenis-
ically affect core social and human values tic, Roman, Byzantine, Middle Ages, Revival,
that can vitally influence the existence of a and Modern Times.
society and its social fabric. Hence, tradi- Actually, the city has changed its name many
tional settlements and buildings that can times through its long history:
be preserved constitute the link between • Kendrisos/Kendros (presumed) 4000
the past and the modern environment. The B.C.
maintenance and preserving of their exist- • Evmolpias/Eumolpia 1200 B.C. – the
ence is not a monumental action but it con- Thracians named the city after their
tributes to the developing of stimuli which mythical king Eumoplas, son of Posei-
facilitate us to perceive the historical route don.
and the continuity of our place.” • Philippopolis 342 B.C. – Philip of Mace-
donia named the city after himself.
PRESERVATION • Pulpudeva – when the Thracians won
their city back, they named it Pulpudeva,
AND SUSTAINABLE which is a translation of Philippopolis.
• Trimontium – the Romans named the
DEVELOPMENT city Three Hills when they took over in 42
A.D.
Plovdiv is the second-largest city in Bulgaria • Puldin/Ploudin/Pulden/Populdin – the
with a city population of 341,567 as of 2015 name given to the city after the fall of the
and 675,586 in the greater metropolitan Roman Empire.
area. It has roughly 8 millennia history and • Filibe – the city was known as Filibe dur-
has been proclaimed the oldest continuous- ing the Ottoman Empire.

46
• Plovdiv – the name was first mentioned poetry and art contests. Later in the 4th cen-
in the 11th century but was replaced by tury, this area was crossed by an Aqueduct.
Filibe during the Ottoman Empire and Nowadays only one end of the Stadium has
reinstated after the city’s liberation. been excavated and is accessible to the pub-
Nowadays Plovdiv combines a modern and lic while the main arena is still under the
thriving city center with a quiet and laid Main Street. It’s an open-air museum and
back Old Town, everything dotted with Ro- is frequently used as a stage for concerts,
man ruins. The city plan has one focal point small operas, and performances. There are
and that’s the Main Street. plans to expose the remains of the runway of
the Stadium building along the entire length
of the Main Street under a glass ceiling. The
ARCHITECTURAL seating is mainly under the buildings and
HERITAGE – ANCIENT only visible in their basements. Some of
them offer public access to the ruins.
TIMES
The Ancient
The Roman Stadium Amphitheatre
The Main Street is separated into two by the Uphill is The Old Town and there is the An-
Dzhumaya Square where the substantial cient Theatre. It is located on the Southern
ruins of a Roman Stadium that could hold slope of the Three Hills, in the saddle be-
thirty thousand spectators are on display tween Taksim and Dzhambaz tepe. Build
beneath the square. Build at the beginning in 1st century AD by Emperor Trajan, it was
of 2nd century AD by Emperor Hadrian, near used until the 4th century. The open-air
the fortress wall. It was used for games sim- spectator’s area includes 28 concentric rows
ilar to Pythian Games in Greece. Sporting of marble seats, surrounding the stage (on
events were usually accompanied by music, some of them still can be read the name of

47
the owner of the seat of honor). was a rectangular building which compris-
Nowadays it is one of the best-preserved es typical elements for roofed theatres like
theaters in the world. Completely hidden skene, orchestra, and a cave with 350 spec-
and forgotten for centuries it was excavated tator seats.
in the 70’s of the 20th century. It was care- Nowadays the stage and seating of the Ode-
fully restored to its nowadays state. Fully on is under the open sky and is used for small
functional, the Ancient Amphitheater can performances and concerts. Future plans
hold about 5000 spectators and is heavily include incorporating visitors’ facilities and
used for festivals and opera performances. further restoration until the previously best-
With its perfect acoustics, it’s one of the best known state of the structures.
open stages.
The Nebet Tepe
The Odeon of Fortress
Philippopolis
The oldest settlement of Plovdiv is on the hill
There is another stage from the Roman pe- of Nebet Tepe (in the Old Town). The com-
riod in Plovdiv and that’s The Odeon of plex was part of the fortification system of
Philippopolis. It’s situated near the Central the city and contains many historical layers
Square. It’s believed that the building was of its constant expansion and development
originally used as Town Hall but later recon- until the 14th century.
structions changed it to Theatre Building. During a clearing of Nebet Tepe was discov-
The Odeon had four construction periods: ered a unique postern from Roman times
from the 2nd century AD (during the reign – a secret tunnel in the rock massif out of
of Hadrian) when it was initially built to the the northern wall from the time of Justinian
4th century AD, when it was abandoned. It the Great (6th century). According to certain

48
suppositions, Apostle Paul passed through
it. There is a preserved staircase in the tun- ARCHITECTURAL
nel, which led to the right bank of the river.
Historians believe that the Maritsa River ran
HERITAGE – OLD
through it in the past. The river bed had been TOWN
so great that it occupied today’s Shesti Sep-
temvri Blvd. Storage reservoirs used in ene- A good example of integrating architectural
my sieges are also preserved. The rectangu- heritage is The Old Town (the oldest con-
lar water reservoir preserved until present tinuously living part of the city). It’s a living
times attracts people’s interest with its size museum of the type of National Revival ar-
and capacity of 300,000 liters. chitecture that developed here (there were
In 2017 a team of archeologist started exca- regional differences) in the early to mid-
vating just below the top of the hill to reveal 1800s. The residential buildings here are
the boundaries of the original fortress and exceptionally rich, most could be described
to gather as much information as possible as mansions. Most revival houses are elab-
for the historical layers there. Future plans orately decorated. Walls, ceilings, and parts
include restoration of previous best-known of the façades were painted with floral mo-
state (like the ancient theatre and roman tifs; ceilings, porches, doors, and furniture
stadium) and permanent exposition and us- were carved out of wood and painted. By the
age as a museum and open-air stage. mid 19th century Classicism infiltrated from
Western Europe and the Plovdiv, style is evi-
dent only as external decoration. Nowadays
The Roman Aqueduct the Old Town is an interesting mixture of pri-
vate houses, museums, hotels, restaurants
Plovdiv has always been a big city with an and antique shops. The complex also houses
important role in the region, so in the 2nd- headquarters of artists, writers, poets. There
3rd century, the Aqueduct of Philippopolis are craft and art schools which made The
was built. It was expensive and difficult to Old Town, not just beautiful remain from the
construct so not many cities in the world past but the living heart of the modern city.
could afford it (there are just a few preserved
in the world nowadays).
The Aqueduct comprises of two main pipe- Kuyumdzhiev’s House
lines (one of them 6 km long) supplying the
whole city with fresh water from the springs Probably the most famous house in the com-
in Rhodopa mountain. So in the 2nd century, plex is the Kuyumdzhiev’s House. Built in
Philippopol already had a built pipeline net- the remote 1847 by the master-builder Hadji
work, which supplied it with approximately Georgi, it is now home to the Ethnographic
480 liters per second or 43 000 tons of water Museum.
annually. Plovdiv Regional Ethnographic museum is
A significant part of the western aqueduct the second largest specialized museum of
has been perfectly preserved and in the this type in Bulgaria. It is an acknowledged
1980s it was reconstructed. It can be now scientific-educational institution and an
seen on Komatevsko Shose Street, towering attractive center for cultural tourism. The
over the busy city traffic. Parts of the Aque- museum was established in 1917 and since
duct foundations, which later became part 1938 it has been located in Kuyumdzhieva’s
of the city’s fortification system, are exhib- house, a cultural monument of national
ited in the new Presentation Centre of the significance. It is located near the eastern
Ancient Stadium. gate of the town called Hissar Kapiia (Hissar
Stone Gate).
It is a typical representative of Plovdiv Re-

49
naissance symmetrical house, defined by of two perpendicular axes, the one of the
experts as a peak of Baroque architecture ground floor and the one of the 1st floor. The
in Bulgaria. The eastern façade of the house exclusively rich elaboration of the architec-
was built upon the ancient fortified wall and tural detail, of plastic and flat ornamenta-
is an inseparable part of the ensemble of tion, transcends the pure residential func-
Hissar Kapiia. tion and is similar to the features of a public
At the end of the 19th century the house building.
became a girls’ boarding school, and later The house was built in the early 19th centu-
it turned into a millinery factory, a vinegar ry and had three owners. Today it bears the
factory, and a flour storehouse. In 1938 the name of its last owner, the tradesman Luka
house was established as a museum and has Balabanov.
been open for visitors since 1943. The house was unfortunately demolished in
Nowadays the museum is a famous tourist the 30s of the 20th century and was carefully
attraction. It offers a demonstration of tradi- reconstructed in the 70s, based on photo-
tional crafts and is a co-organizer and a host graphic material and schemes, and under
of popular traditional festivals such as the the guidance of renowned Plovdiv archi-
Annual Festival of Chamber Music, The Festi- tects.
val of Classic Guitar, etc., as well as concerts, Nowadays, the ground floor features a per-
biennials, fashion shows, theatrical plays, manent exhibition of modern Bulgarian art.
book presentations and other kinds of per- The second floor, once having served for in-
formances. viting guests, exhibits Revival period interior
and serves as a popular venue for the hold-
ing of cultural events - chamber music con-
Balabanov’s House certs, theatre performances, meetings etc.
The traditional “Balabanov’s House Music
The Balabanov’s House is another spectac- Days” festival is held twice a year. There are
ular example for the development of the also two halls in the basement area, serving
symmetrical Plovdiv house and is one of the for the organization of temporary art exhibi-
most lavish buildings whose spatial com- tions.
position is characterized by the equal role

50
master-icon painters Moko and Mavrudi
Hindliyan’s House from Chirpan. Some of the wall paintings
have survived intact over the years. Paper
Hindliyan’s House was constructed in 1834- stencil was used for the first time here to
35 by unknown builders and is one of the few paint the standard motifs on the first floor
houses in the Old Town of Plovdiv, which has of the house. All the walls upstairs, includ-
preserved their original symmetric design. ing the French-fashion niches, were painted
Its owner Stepan Hindliyan is known as the by hand, with the ceilings covered in color to
founder of one of the four wealthiest fami- match the walls. A mirror image of the house
lies of Armenian descent in the town. He was can be seen above the door of the storage
a prominent merchant, whose business at room in the yard, which serves both as deco-
the beginning of the 19th century frequent- ration and a blueprint of the house. Another
ly sent him as far as India, which is how he image above the kitchen door is considered
earned the nickname of Hindliyan. to serve the same purpose- it represents a
The house has a complicated plan, which mirror image of the less formal part of the
adheres to the symmetry only within the house.
frameworks of the inner space. The ground Nowadays the house is a museum and is
floor is organized around a rectangular hall used for many cultural events.
which is open to three large rooms, a small
bay-window on the street`s side, an en-
trance to the bathroom, changing room and Klianti’s House
one staircase to the second floor. The bath
was built following the oriental model, with The beautiful Klianti’s House is the most re-
domes, vaults, niches, marble floor, a small cently restored – the oldest in the Old Town
basin and floor heating with warm air. Architectural and Historical Reserve. It is sit-
The interior of Hindliyan’s House was rich- uated opposite Lamartine House, Antov’s
ly decorated, walls and ceilings, by the two House and the Yellow School – all listed cul-
tural properties of national significance with
remarkable decorative systems.
The house was built in 1816 and was com-
pletely rebuilt in 1846 and the ground floor
was expanded to the north`, forming the
covered yard. The builders were the same
craftsmen who constructed The Holy Moth-
er Assumption Church. In 1882, the western
part of the house was destroyed and with
the division of the building, two separate
houses were differentiated. In 1920, part of
the southeast corner was “cut”.
Since 1949 Klianti’s House has been de-
clared „people’s monument of culture”, and
in 1995 – listed property of national signif-
icance. It has rich interior decoration and
unique architecture. The mural paintings
inside are polychrome with plant ornamen-
tation, bouquets, and vases with flowers. On
the walls, there are richly decorated niches,
cupboards, backgammon wooden doors.
Nowadays the house is municipal property
and is currently open for visitors.

51
Nowadays it extends from the Central Square
ARCHITECTURAL to Novotel Plovdiv and has a total length of
HERITAGE – MAIN 2.1 km including the bridge, making it the
longest pedestrian street in Europe. Unlike
STREET many historical places here almost every
site is within walking distance of it.
The city plan has one focal point and that is Most of the houses on the Main Street were
the Main Street. That’s the main completely built in the early 20th century; their architec-
pedestrian zone and it houses many theat- ture has elements of the Classicism, the Se-
ers, restaurants, galleries, shops and a lot cession, and the Postmodernism. One of the
of town landmarks. Often, The Main Street emblematic buildings is Molle Hotel, built in
itself is defined as a landmark. 1911, designed by the Italian architect Mari-
In 1896 a Master plan for Plovdiv was creat- ano Pernigoni.
ed. The author of the Plan – Joseph Shniter, The Main Street starts from the Central
predicted the central artery to be 50 meters Square and “Tsar Simeon” garden. The gar-
wide. It was from “Tsar Simeon” garden to den itself has historical significance for the
Maritsa bridge. The professional followed city. It was created in 1892 by the Swiss
the European models because he knew that landscape architect Lucien Chevalas (1840-
the city will grow and the Main Street will 1921) and is later declared a monument of
assume even bigger movement. But most of park art. For all his contribution to the city,
the city councils had houses that had to be in 1901 he was declared an honorary citizen
demolished because of the plan and finally of Plovdiv, and, also, is often referred to as
it was decided that the street will be 8 me- “the Minister of flowers”.
ters wide from Maritsa bridge to Dzhumaya- In 2014 the garden was renovated to resem-
ta and 12 meters wide from Dzhumayata to ble its previous look from the time of the
“Tsar Simeon” garden. Later when the tun- First Bulgarian fair in 1892.
nel under The Old town was build it became All fountains were restored and a Viennese
completely pedestrian. pavilion was built in the center of the park.

52
Its metal openwork construction is a replica div since ancient times. Through centuries
of the 1936-Central Pavilion. All this was pos- many religions found their way to the city:
sible with the help of archival photographs Neolithic people’s beliefs, Thracian and Elin-
and historical evidence from the Book of istic, later Muslim, Christian, all of these –
the fair. The pearl on the crown of the park and many more – had their shrines and plac-
is the renovated Lake with the Modern Sing- es of worship, some of which still exist today.
ing Fountains. Nowadays the park is a focal Some temples have been restored and open
point for both tourists and local people. for the public as museums, others are still
The Main Street starts from the Main Square popular places of worship. Nowadays Plov-
with the Central Post Office whose basement div is a cosmopolitan city of many religions
contains the remains of the Eastern Gate of and their temples coexist peacefully.
Philippopolis, continues over the main track
of The Roman Stadium and right next to its
restored end is the Dzumaya mosque. Just St. St. Konstantin and
behind the mosque is The Seventh Hill in-
stallation and then the Old Town. The Main
Elena church
Street then became the Small Main Street
The churches in the Old Town Architectur-
which passes by the Kapana District and the
al and Historical Reserve have all been re-
Department Store ending with the pedestri-
stored and are preferred places for religious
an bridge over the river.
ceremonies. Probably the most famous is
St. St. Konstantin and Elena. It is one of the
ARCHITECTURAL oldest Christian churches in the city of Plov-
div. It is situated in the heart of the complex,
HERITAGE – RELIGION right on the wall of the Acropolis.
In 304, at the place where the church is locat-
Places of worship have been built in Plov- ed today, the martyrs Severin and Memnos
were beheaded for professing their Christian
faith. The church was built about thirty years
after their death. Throughout the years, the
temple was demolished several times and
then built up again. In 1810 the prominent
weaver of frieze from Koprivshtitza Todor
Moravenov along with Valko Chalakov from
Plovdiv managed to erect the ruined temple
to its present glory.
The newly built temple was one of the larg-
est of its time. It was built by the famous
master of Bratzigovo School, Petko Petkov –
Boz. The iconostasis of the church is unique
for its gilt and polychrome decoration. It was
made in Vienna by John Pashkula of the vil-
lage of Metsovo. He also carved the canopy
over the Holy See and the Bishop’s throne.
The first row of the iconostasis icons was
painted by the famous Bulgarian painter, Za-
hari Zograph. The old iconostasis icons also
date from 14th – 15th centuries.
In the ‘50s of the twentieth century, during
excavations beneath the apse of the church,

53
some attractions such as the rectangular Nowadays the church is fully restored and
tower were discovered. It is associated with many of the original frescoes are preserved.
the defense of the eastern fortress gate – It is a popular place for worship.
Hissar Kapia.
The temple has an icon gallery, where dif-
ferent examples of the icon art are present- The Holy Assumption
ed in a permanent exhibition. The works of
14th – 16thI century are the oldest and most
Cathedral (Uspenie
valuable in this exhibition, including the
old iconostasis icons of the church, existing
Bogorodichno
since before its restoration. There are also church)
works dating from 15th – 18th centuries. The
church is one of the few Plovdiv temples, The church dedicated to the Holly Mother,
whose original frescoes are fully preserved. Virgin Mary existed in the 9th century in The
The St. St. Konstantin and Elena church has Old Town. During the Ottoman invasion in
been functioning permanently since July Bulgarian lands and after the conquest of the
2007. A priest has been appointed and he city in 1371, the monastery near the church
regularly performs ministrations and takes was demolished and completely destroyed.
care of the temple which is popular place for For years the church remains were forgotten
wedding ceremonies. when in the period from 1844 to 1845, crafts-
men from Bratzigovo constructed a large
new church, built entirely of stone. The main
„Sveta Nedelya” donor was Valko Chalakov (The Large) of Ko-
privshtitza, who settled in Plovdiv in early
church 19th century.
During the religious and national fights for
The temple dedicated to Saint Nedelya was independence of the Turkish Invasion, the
built in the early XVII century. It was with St. Mary church played a crucial role. On
small dimensions and unassuming architec- December 25, 1859, Christmas day, Plovdiv
ture but with richly decorated iconostasis. Metropolitan Paisiy together with priest Zla-
In 1829 the old building of Saint Nedelya was tan, chairman of the temple, held a solemn
demolished due to its bad structural condi- Holy Mass in Bulgarian for the first time (so
tion and a temporary chapel was built, with far Greek was the language of the church in
the iconostasis of the old church mounted all Bulgarian churches). After the service, the
in it. The new St. Nedelya church was con- Bishop officially announced that his congre-
structed by builders from Bratzigovo with gation denies the Patriarch of Constantino-
chief master the famous Petko Petkov – Boz. ple.
The workmanship of the iconostasis was Stanislav Dospevski is the creator of the roy-
probably assigned (about 1832-1833) to al icon of Saint Mary with the Divine Infant
Yane Spirov. The famous Debar masters, by the iconostasis, which he painted in 1875.
Makrii Negriev Fruchkovski, and his broth- In honor of the 2000th anniversary of the Na-
ers, Gyurchin and Trayan, executed the em- tivity of Christ, the church was fully restored
bossment of the column capitals – a fine and rebuilt. Nowadays the temple is a fa-
artwork similar to sculpting. The majority vorite place for wedding ceremonies.
of the icons were painted by the famous Za-
harii Zograph, Dimitar Hristov Zograph and
his son Zafir, later known by the pseudonym
Stanislav Dospevski. In 1893 the first bishop
liturgy in Bulgarian language was held in the
church “Sveta Nedelya”.

54
day’s pedestrian zone, west of the Old Town.
“Saint Ludvig” The mosque was built on the site of St. Petka
Catholic Cathedral Tarnovska Plovdiv Cathedral Church soon
after the conquest of the city by the Ottoman
The Catholic Cathedral of Saint Ludvig is the army (1363-64). During the reign of Sultan
largest Catholic church in Bulgaria, named Murad II (1421-1451) the old building was
after the King of France, proclaimed a saint demolished and today’s mosque, called Ulu
because of his exceptional virtuous and reli- Dzhumaya Mosque, meaning Main Friday
gious life, resembling the life of a monk. Mosque, was erected in its place.
The cathedral was designed and engineered The temple is one of the oldest cult Ottoman
by Roman architect Alfonso, who was one buildings of the Balkans. Its construction
of the best connoisseurs of Gothic style and shows the influence of Byzantine and Old
architecture. Its foundations were placed Bulgarian architecture technique – two lay-
in 1858 by Bishop Andrea Canova and were ers of bricks were built up after each layer of
consecrated and finally completed on March stone. Unlike the later one-dome mosques,
25th, 1861. The bell tower of Saint Ludwig the Dzhumaya Mosque is amongst the mul-
Catholic Cathedral was built with funds do- tiple-domed ones – nine covered with lead
nated by Pope Leo XIII in 1902. There is a sheets.
legend that three centuries earlier the place The amazing wall decorations inside the
was a small house, where Paulician worshi- mosque are filled with rich plant ornamen-
pers, who had accepted the Catholic faith, tation – twigs, flowers, and garlands, sand-
used to gather. wiched between medallions with quotations
A major fire in 1932 destroyed most of the from the Koran. The frescoes probably date
building, which was later carefully restored from the end of 17th and beginning of 19th
to its nowadays looks. century. Analogies of the external and in-
The gravestones of the chairman by sen- ternal architecture of Dzhumaya Mosque in
iority of the first meeting of the Eastern Plovdiv can be made with one of the oldest
Rumelian Regional Assembly, Archbishop Ottoman cult monuments in Bursa, Edirne,
Francis-Dominique Renaldy and Bishop An- and Sofia, built between 14th and 15th cen-
drea Canova are placed in the middle of the turies.
church. Another valuable object stored here Nowadays Dzhumaya Mosque is fully re-
is a sarcophagus made by the famous Italian stored and is used as an active Muslim tem-
sculptor Professor Gentile. The sarcophagus ple.
is Princess Maria-Luiza’s, the wife of Bulgar-
ian Prince Ferdinand, the mother of Tsar
Boris III, and the grandmother of Simeon II
The Small Basilica of
Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. Maria-Luiza was deep- Philippopolis
ly connected to Plovdiv and often visited
the city with charitable missions. She was The basilica is located on Maria Louisa Blvd
extremely religious and her godfather was off the center of Plovdiv. The ruins of the ear-
Pope Pius IX. Nowadays the cathedral is one ly Christian church were found during con-
of the most beautiful buildings in the city struction works in the area in 1988. The fine
and an active place of worship. mosaics of the Small Basilica were subject
to emergency conservation soon thereafter.
The temple was located on the eastern out-
Dzhumaya Mosque skirts of the ancient city, close to the inner
face of the castle wall with a tower from 2nd
Dzhumaya Mosque is the main Muslim – 4th century. The church was near the east-
shrine in Plovdiv situated by the center of to- ern necropolis of the city and the martirion

55
of the 37 Philippopolis martyrs on the road
to Constantinople. The basilica was built in ARCHITECTURAL
the second half of the 5th century and con-
tained rich decoration.
HERITAGE – TOBACCO
In 1995 the basilica and the adjacent re- CITY
mains were declared a national monument
of culture and in 2010 to 2013 careful con-
servation and restoration was conducted. At the end of the Main Street lies the Tobac-
In 2014 The Small Basilica was opened for co City. It is located on the southern side of
the public and instantly became a popular Ivan Vazov St., one of Plovdiv’s most beauti-
site for both tourists and locals. ful streets. The unique tobacco warehouses
were build during the economic prosperity
in the 1920s. Built in the style of the Vienna
Great Basilica of Secession, neo-Classicism and Art Nouveau
the warehouses were designed by some
Philippopolis of Plovdiv’s most talented architects of the
period like Kamen Petkov and Dimitar Pop-
The Great Basilica is located in the central ov. They were commissioned by prominent
part of Plovdiv, next to the Catholic Saint tobacco merchants and benefactors, such
Ludvig Cathedral and Maria Luiza Blvd. It as Dimitar Kudoglu, Anastas Kutsoglu, and
was built at the beginning of the 5th centu- Tomasyan. Following the communist coup
ry probably over an earlier building with a in 1944, the warehouses were nationalized.
similar plan which covered the space for two In 1962, parts of the movie “Tobacco”, based
insulae (quarters defined by four perpendic- on the novel by Dimitar Dimov, wеrе filmed
ular streets). It was demolished and aban- in the quarter.
doned, probably in 577. Nowadays a large number of the warehous-
The large size of the building, the rich deco- es have fallen into disrepair due to con-
ration of mosaics and the altar area organi- flicting property claims. Despite being ac-
zation suggest it was the Episcopal Basilica knowledged cultural-heritage monuments,
of Philippopolis. only some individual buildings were fully
The remains of the basilica were discovered restored and used. Some buildings are used
during the construction of an underpass in for art exhibitions and workshops.
the mid-1980s. In 2014 a restoration project In 2014 chain of events started to draw at-
which discovered and conserved the build- tention to the quarter. In 2017 a project with
ing’s ruins started. The unique mosaics were the Municipality and the owners of the ware-
removed to the Plovdiv Archaeological Mu- houses was started aiming at restoring the
seum. whole district and bringing it back as part of
The next step of the project is constructing the living life.
a protective building around the ruins. After
that, the mosaic will be restored and exhib-
ited. It will be part of a museum complex CRAFTS – KAPANA
including the “Saint Ludvig” Cathedral and
surrounding areas, which will be turned into DISTRICT
a pedestrian zone.
In the center of the city, near the Main Street
is the newly renovated Kapana District (The
Trap). The quarters emerged as a center for
craftsmen 5 centuries ago and in it were situ-
ated workshops of all guilds and from them

56
were formed several bazaars: tailor, leather, and Zlatarska (Gold Str). The name of the
saddlery, iron, coppersmith, goldsmith ba- district itself is inspired by the many tangled
zaars and others. The former neighborhood small streets which form a labyrinth. It now
was destroyed by a major fire in 1907, after houses a contemporary breed of café-bars,
which new buildings were built where many clubs, galleries, workshops, ateliers, studi-
legal and commercial firms were estab- os, cozy restaurants, and shops, as well as
lished. art spaces, and there is even a vinyl shop! All
In 1980 started a new period of revival for these places fill Kapana with modern cultur-
the district as a trade and craft quarters with al content not only with their daily activities
maximum preservation of the street net- but also organizing events with social, eco-
work. Many buildings were restored which nomic and cultural effect for the city, such
gained the status of the neighborhood to be as concerts, exhibitions, festivals, forums,
declared a Group Monument of Culture. art installations, screenings, workshops and
In 1981, a group of architects, designers, much more.
and artists, under the leadership of Arch. An-
toaneta Topalova took part in the exhibition
“For More Beauty in the Living Environment: CULTURE
Synthesis of Architecture with the Plastic
Arts”, where they presented a project for the Plovdiv has a long history of festivals and
renovation of Kapana turning it into a mul- celebrations. Nowadays different events are
tifunctional place for culture by preserving held all year round to celebrate traditions
its authentic outlook. This project had been and create new ones.
awarded a silver medal and a prize by the Most popular events are: the Night of Mu-
Mayor of Madrid when it was presented at seums and Galleries – extremely popular
the World Architecture Biennale in 1985. one, which had to extend to two or more
The project was abandoned after the politi- nights due to the heavy visitors’ interest in
cal changes in 1989 but in 1995, the Munici- all cultural sites, Kapana fest – fair held in
pality of Plovdiv won a European project for the renovated Kapana District presenting
cooperation with the Republic of France in both old and new crafts, Traditional Crafts
the field of construction and management of Fair, Opera Open – part of the opera season,
Кapana. The main point in the project called Shake that Hill – Rock festival held on the
“New Scenography of the Street Spaces” is Youth Hill, Days of Thracian culture, Hills of
the public spaces. A team from Plovdiv, led Rock – Music festival, Plovdiv Jazz Fest, In-
again by arch. Topalova, and a team from ternational Folklore Festival, Trimontiada,
the city of Dijon worked together with local One Dance Week – contemporary dance fes-
residents on the aesthetics of the neighbor- tival, One Architecture Week – installations
hood and organization of transport, parking, and workshops for the people who want to
public services, waste collection. participate in changing their surronundings,
Finally, from 2013 to 2017 the Plovdiv Munic- Balabanov’s house music days, Wines of the
ipality and “Plovdiv 2019” Foundation trans- Ages, Drone Up International Film Festival,
formed the quarter into an art center and a Young Wine Parade and many more.
district dedicated to creative industries. This
project was part of the artistic programme of
“Together” – the concept and motto Plovdiv
ENTREPRENEURSHIP
won the European Capital of Culture 2019.
The nowadays district is almost completely Plovdiv Fair
pedestrian. What’s left of the old craftsman
quarter are the street names - like Kozhu- In 1892 Plovdiv hosted the First Bulgarian
harska (Leather Str), Zhelezarska (Iron Str) Agricultural and Industrial Exposition. That

57
was the beginning of the exhibition industry
in modern Bulgarian history. Trakia Economic
Todays International Fair Plovdiv is the
successor of the First Exposition. The Fair-
Zone
ground is one of the largest exhibition ven- Trakia Economic Zone (TEZ) in Plovdiv is an
ues in Southeast Europe. It is situated in an industrial and commercial area and one of
area of 352,000 sq. m. The exhibition com- the biggest economic projects in Bulgaria. It
plex consists of 17 multifunctional pavilions includes six major industrial zones in the re-
best equipped for the arrangement and dis- gion of Plovdiv with a total area of 10,700,000
play of all kinds of exhibits. The exhibition sq.m. of which 3,250,000 sq.m occupied
area amounts to 159,100 sq. m., the indoor area. More than 140 Bulgarian and multina-
area is 64,500 sq. m. The modern Congress tional companies operate in TEZ which emp-
Centre of the International Fair Plovdiv com- loy over 12,000 people (as of 2015). Since
prises eight multifunctional halls with 20 to 1995, TEZ has attracted over EUR 1.1 billion
550 seats. Another 12 halls in various pavil- of fixed-capital investments.
ions are also available.
International Fair Plovdiv is the first fair or-
ganizing company in Bulgaria admitted as NATURAL
a member of UFI - the Global Association
of the Exhibition Industry in 1936. Seven of RESOURCES IN
its events have fulfilled the high criteria and
have been approved by UFI. These are the
PLOVDIV
International Technical Fair, the Internation-
al Consumer Goods and Technologies Fair,
the specialized exhibitions AGRA, VINARIA,
Dzhendem Tepe
MEDICUS, DENTO, GALENIA, PrintCom, and (Youth Hill)
Foodtech.
Dzhendem Tepe is the highest of all the hills
in Plovdiv. Its relative height compared to

58
the average altitude of the city (164 m) is 143
m. The hill is located in the southwest part Bunarzhik (The
of the city.
The Dzhendem Tepe is the first of the Plovdiv
Liberators Hill)
hills declared a protected territory. As early
as 1970 the southern part of the hill with an Bunarzhik is the second highest of the seven
area of 3ha had adopted the status of a na- hills. Its name comes from the Ottoman word
tional landmark. Its aim is the preservation Bunar (a well), because of the numerous wa-
of the natural habitat of rare plant species, ter sources. In Roman times it was known
not typical for our flora, including Bulgarian as the Hill of Hercules, as there was a large
and Balkan relict endemic tutsan, Astragalus statue on the top. The hill is a favorite place
physocalux, Genista rumelica. for relaxation and picnics of Plovdiv citi-
In ancient times it was called the Hill of the zens and it is declared a natural landmark.
Dryad Nymphs. There was a huge statue The first forestation was carried out along-
of Apollo in bronze on top of the hill until side the construction of the monuments of
Late Antiquity. In the early Christian era, Russian Liberators and of the Soviet Soldier,
there was located a large three-nave basili- known locally as Alyosha in 1881. In 1901 the
ca, which was built on the site of the pagan first open-air restaurant, known for its ‘frog
statue demolished by the Christians. During legs’ specialty, was built. After World War II
the Ottoman period, it was named Dzhin the Summer Theater was built on the hill’s
Tepe (the Hill of the Spirits), which gradually outskirts.
changed to Dzhendem Tepe.
Nowadays there is a large park on the Youth
Hill, with a mini railway for kids. The place is Sahat Tepe (Danov
very popular for recreation and even hosts a
few festivals.
Hill)
Danov Hill (Sahat Tepe) is located in the
center of Plovdiv, west of the Main Street. In

59
the first modern city plan, drawn by Joseph in different directions across the Three Hills.
Schnitter, the hill was named the Hour Hill,
because of the Clocktower on top dating
back to 17th century. It is believed that in Markovo Tepe (Hill of
Roman times on the top of the hill there was
a temple of Venus with a sundial. Today the
Marko)
hill is used as a park for relaxation and gath- Markovo Tepe was the seventh hill of Plov-
erings of musicians. div. It was destroyed in the course of a pe-
riod from the late 19th to mid-20th century
Nebet Tepe, and the material was used as pavement for
the streets in Plovdiv. The site stayed empty
Dzhambaz Tepe, and for many years when in 2016 a large public
and commercial building opened there.
Taksim Tepe – the Recently the city “regained” its Seventh Hill
Three Hills with a project that immortalizes writers, who
created their works in Plovdiv, with paving
The Architectural and Historical Reserve stones from the destroyed Markovo Tepe.
Old Town is situated on the Three Hills. The
ancient fortress is on Nebet Tepe. On Dzam-
baz, which is called like that because of the
The Rowing Canal
steep cliffs on the southeast, where acrobats (Regatta Venue)
and rope tricksters used to give their per-
formances in the antiquity, is situated the The rowing Canal is a sports facility located
Ancient Amphitheatre. The name of Taksim adjacent to the Recreation and Culture Park,
Tepe comes from the word Taksim (Arabic for near Maritza River. Its the largest of its kind in
“distribution”), which refers to the place as the Balkans and rowing competitions can be
a distribution center of the ancient city. The held there. The channel is 2 200 meters long,
waters of the former Roman aqueduct were 120 meters wide and three meters deep. The
collected here and then they were released spectators can enjoy the sports events from

60
the renovated 800 seats grandstand. veloping in more than 20 boutique wineries
A bridge crosses the Rowing canal. On its rail- in an 80 km radius from Plovdiv. Daily wine
ings, there are hundreds of locked padlocks tasting tours around them are the perfect
which symbolize the “locked love of young way to popularize the local variety Mavrud
and old ones” as the keys lie somewhere on which the sommeliers assess as the Bulgar-
the bottom of the canal. The Rowing Canal ian variety with the highest potential for in-
is surrounded by jogging and walking alleys, ternational recognition. Those tours offer
as well as a cycling alley. Sport fishing com- plenty of opportunities to see and even ex-
petitions are also held here. But apart from perience some of the cultural heritage sites.
these events, the fishing in the canal is strict-
ly prohibited.
Bachkovo monastery
PLOVDIV AREA Bachkovo monastery is the second larg-
est monastery in Bulgaria, located in the
Winemaking southern part of the village Bachkovo, 10 km
south of Asenovgrad. It was founded in 1083
The area around Plovdiv also offers some by the Georgian Gregoriy Bakuriani, who do-
very good examples of sustainable develop- nated the land. It is thought that after the fall
ment. Bulgaria especially the Thracian Val- of Bulgaria to the Ottomans at the end of the
ley has a rich history of winemaking, so the 14th century, Bulgaria’s last patriarch Eftim-
tradition is being kept alive and has been de- iy was exiled to the Bachkovo Monastery.

61
The monastery holds a silver-plated icon
from 1311 known as The Holy Mother of God Dairies
Icon. It is believed to have miraculous pow-
ers. The monastery has a large collection of The nearby Rhodopa Mountain offers per-
icons, silver plated covers for copies of the fect opportunities for rural tourism. A good
Gospels and other works of art from the 16th example is Rodopa Milk Dairy. It was found-
to the 19th centuries. Treasures from the ed in 1993 with main activity milk process-
17th century include a carved wooden icon ing. Located in an ecologically clean area,
stand with gold ornamentation and the ca- the dairy can meet hygiene and technology
thedral’s royal doors. standards at European level. As well as pro-
The monastery is still functioning, and visi- ducing traditional Bulgarian dairy products
tors have the option of overnight accommo- they specialize in alternative and eco-tour-
dations. The place is very popular for cere- ism and provide their visitors with the op-
monies – weddings, christenings, etc. The portunity to observe the production process
monastery and the area around are devel- in the enterprise, as is the practice in Alpine
oped tourist site. There is a museum where dairies. The Milk House complex established
some of the oldest artifacts connected with adjacently to the dairy, offers all the con-
the history of the monastery are on display. veniences and comfort, dairy specialties and
Also, the path leading to the monastery is surprises.
lined with small shops and stands that sell
everything the Rhodopa Mountain can of-
fer – herbs, fruit, homemade jam and dairy
CREATING NEW
products, ceramic items, wood carvings and TRADITIONS
much more.
Ever changing and constantly developing
the city has its old and new “tokens”. Mon-
Assen’s fortress ument or installations which contain small
mementos, inside jokes even, of people of
Near the Bachkovo Monastery is located As- Plovdiv.
sen’s fortress – the ancient fort that guard-
ed the entrance to the Thracian Valley once
known as “Petrich”. PLOVEDIV
It first appeared in history books during the
11th century as part of Bachkovo monas- The sign PLOVEDIV, is mounted on one of
tery. The earliest archaeological findings the houses in the Old Town, visible from the
date from the time of the Thracians, the area Stanislav Dospewski Street. In 2011 Milen
of the fortress being also inhabited during Gelishev and Simeon Todorov completed
the Ancient Roman and Early Byzantine pe- it within the Night of Museums and Galler-
riod. In the 13th century, the site was con- ies – Plovdiv, in the program “City and pub-
siderably renovated and went on to play a lic spaces”. It presents how contemporary
significant role under the rule of Tsar Ivan people see the city, their vision for commu-
Assen II, from whom Petrich would adopt its nication and the creative ways to name and
more common name: ‘Assenova Krepost,’ or brand the place they live in. It became pop-
‘Assen’s Fortress.’ In the 14th century, it was ular very quickly and added one more name
completely destroyed by Ottomans and only to the already long list of names for the city.
the Church of the Holy Mother of God par-
tially survived and later was fully restored
by the local Orthodox community. It has Milyo
remained in religious use ever since. Nowa-
days the site is open to tourists. On the Main Street, at the foot of the Kamen-

62
itza stairs, sits the statue of Milyo. He was
not some great historical figure but simply REFERENCES
the town’s idiot. He was goodhearted and
known and loved by everybody in his time. • Шишков С. (2016) Пловдив в своето
Often used as a model for artists and pho- минало и настояще (in Bulgarian),
tographers he has already numerous por- Пловдив, Фондация „Балкански
traits but his statue made him one of the Културен Форум“
symbols of Plovdiv. • Roman Plovdiv
• Valandovski D. (2015, March 30).
Excavation project for ‘Great’ Basilica
Sasho Sweety in Bulgaria’s Plovdiv to focus on early
christian mosaics restoration
Near the church of St. Petka is the Statue of • Ancient Plovdiv
Sasho Sweety. Well known and loved jazz • Tobacco City
musician, he was popular for his jokes with • Kapana creative district
the regime. • Lost in Plovdiv
• Alternative map of Plovdiv
• Plovdiv a touch of art and history
Plovdiv Together • Plovdiv time (in Bulgarian)
• Капана (in Bulgarian)
The sign Plovdiv Together in The Main Street • “Rodopa Milk” Dairy
was erected for the European Capital of Cul- • (2017 September 02) Детското влакче
ture – Plovdiv 2019. It quickly became a pop- - един от символите на Пловдив (in
ular place for selfies for both tourists and Bulgarian)
local people. • The ancient stadium of Philippopolis
• The Sofia Globe
Graffiti •

Plovdiv Wine Tasting Tour
Асенова крепост (in Bulgarian)
As part of the modern city culture, Plovdiv is • Richter D. Asen’s Fortress, Bulgaria
collecting vast graffiti collection. Most pop- • Bachkovo monastery History
ular are the drawings on the back of the De- • Кривошиева Б. (2017 November
partment Store, and the graffiti on the back 04) Паметникът на Альоша- между
of the Drama Theatre. In Trakia quarter, gi- християнските символи, Херакъл и
ant graffiti is drawn on the entire facades of Супермен (in Bulgarian)
a block of flats (usually historical figures or • Христов К. (2017 October 08) Как
even poems). пловдивският талисман Мильо оживя
в паметник на Главната (in Bulgarian)
• Добрева Е. (2011 September 05)
The Seventh Hill Откриха „Седмия хълм“ в Пловдив (in
Bulgarian)
The “Seventh Hill” installation by the sculp- • PLOVEDIV – проект в градска среда (in
tor Atanas Hranov is located next to the Main Bulgarian)
Street in the middle of the small garden. It • International Fair Plovdiv
is a symbolic regaining of the long-lost Sev- • Trakia Economic Zone
enth Hill of the city. The installation is built • Pixabay
with paving stones from the original Mark-
ovo Tepe and contains cast iron plates with
sayings, titles and the names of popular
writers, who created their works in Plovdiv.

63
64
65
KRUJA CASTLE A
CULTURAL AND
TRADITIONAL
SETTLEMENTS HERITAGE
AND ITS PRESERVATION
MEASURES
BACKGROUND 68
Strategical Framework 68

CASTLE ACTIVITIES 69
Castle-for fica on 69
Mosque 70
Clock tower 70
Tekke 71
Hammam 72
Tradi onal buildings 74
Modern buildings 74
Church 76
Roads 76

KRUJA –
Sewage rehabilita on 76
Crea on of green spaces 77
Tradi onal bazaar 78

ALBANIA
Main na onal museum 79
Ethnographic museum 79
Interpreta on signage 82
Monumental and func onal ligh ng 83

FUTURE INTERVENTIONS EXPECTED 83


Wri‚en by Mul plier effects 84
Ols Lafe
SUSTAINABILITY 84
Uendi Murthi
The financial aspect 84
Arঞ Çiçolli Ins tu onal level 84
(Shoqata Shqiptare e Ambientalisteve Policy level: 85
Industriale, Tirana, Albania) Environmental level 85
Social level 85

66 aurore 66
Coat of arms of Scanderbeg

67
BACKGROUND Strategical
Albania is a country with ancient history and Framework
rich cultural heritage. Notwithstanding lo-
cal tourists, cultural tourisms has a strong This site stands in the priority of National
impact on local economies. Destinations Strategy for Development and Integration
promoting a high quality cultural tourism (NSDI) 2007-2013, with regard to the strate-
in Albania, such as Butrint, Gjirokastra, and gic priority to achieve a balanced and sus-
Berat (all of which are UNESCO designated tainable economic, social and human devel-
World Heritage Sites), and Apollonia, Dur- opment. Kruja Castle stands in compliance
res, Kruje, Lezhe and Shkodwr offer tourists with the NSDI’s visions and strategic priori-
a good opportunity to visit unknown place. ties in the sectors of Tourism and Culture,
With an increasing number of tourists on a and in particular:
yearly basis, a large number of opportuni- • Tourism: develop special interest tour-
ties is provided for cultural heritage pres- ism, with special reference to cultural
ervation (for example the case of Butrint tourism, in the short- to medium term,
where the archaeology supplement nature by means of enhancing awareness, ca-
and the case of Gjirokaster and Kruja where pacity-building, territorial planning, and
the castle, historic centre and characteristic the overall improvement of the cultural
houses offer to the tourists numerous natu- tourism offer;
rally combines values of Albanian heritage. • Culture: to improve the restoration of
Investments and rehabilitation of histor- monuments, standards of management
ic centres has been a priority of Ministry of and treatment of cultural heritage and
Tourism, Culture, youth and Sports also in support the diversity of contemporary
cooperation with international organiza- cultural expressions, while at the same
tions and other donors. time mainstreaming culture within cen-
The Kruja Castle is the most renowned me- tral and local development programmes
dieval cultural heritage monument in Al- and policies.
bania, a stronghold of the National Hero, In particular, Kruja site contributes to the
Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg and nowadays eenlightening an important historical asset
a highly visited attraction for both foreign of Ottoman Empire history, as well as serv-
and Albanian tourists. Kruja, the castle and ing for:
its environs, stands as a first class national • inclusion of cultural and natural assets in
monument, which offers a complex view tourism development;
into the history of Albania. • improvement of existing local products
Situated at about 600m above sea level, the in areas with potential for tourism.
castle has a perimeter of walls of ca. 800 m, The restoration, rehabilitation, treatment of
and occupies a surface of ca. 2.25 ha, while existing pathologies of monuments, creation
holding inside several cult related monu- of green spaces inside the castle, improving
ments (a mosque, a tekke and a church), the existing museums as well as restoring
as well as houses and two museums. In his- the mosque, hammam, tekke and remnants
torical sources the castle is first mentioned of the church are part of the authority prior-
in the 9th century AD and as a fortified set- ities. Improving the tourist experience and
tlement in the 13th century AD. During the the quality of life of the inhabitants is an-
13th-14th centuries it became the centre of other main goal. By providing a tourist infor-
the State of Arbër. mation centre, the creation of the ticketing
system and the tourist signage it is aimed at
providing better information and services to
visitors.

68
The latest intervention has aimed to: lated tourism in the area of Kruja (and
1. Improve conservation/restoration of lo- more generally in Albania).
cal cultural heritage by implementing
pilot conservation works and develop-
ing capacities of local practitioners, with CASTLE ACTIVITIES
special focus on women and youth.
2. Sustain the social and economic inclu-
sion of vulnerable groups at risk of pov-
Castle-fortification
erty (with special focus on women and The castle is the main attraction to all visi-
youth) by supporting job creation and tors aiming to arrange a trip to Kruja. Its pre-
the integration of vulnerable groups in dominant location can be easily discerned
income-generating activities related to while approaching from the main road, as
cultural heritage (e.g. tourism, arts and well as from the traditional bazaar. The fol-
crafts, etc). lowing important and indispensable actions
3. Support sustainable territorial develop- are taken lately and are still ongoing:
ment through the better management • Restore and secure all of the existing ca.
of Kruja’s cultural heritage, by increasing 800m long walls.
accessibility as an important national • Consolidating foundations in some of
historic site, ensuring the application of the round and rectangular towers as well
the relevant international standards as as capping of the walls for better visual
in UNESCO World Heritage Sites within impact.
Albania and abroad. • Reconfiguring of some important ele-
4. Foster the promotion and increase visi- ments, consolidating the stone founda-
bility and practice of cultural heritage-re- tions of the main walls.

69
• Rehabilitation of the landscape after the • Filling in missing details and consolidat-
consolidating interventions. ing walls where possible and visible in
• Cleaning of the stone walls fugues and order to have a better configuration of
joints, vegetation and re-fuguing where the remaining architectural plan.
necessary. • Cleaning of vegetation, partial excava-
• Partial reconstruction of the observation tion, levelling.
towers and conservation of the existing • Cleaning of the minaret fragment and al-
elements. gae created by long exposure in humid-
• Cleaning from modern elements (phone ity.
and electric pylons, fences etc). • Extended explanation touristic panels for
• Creation of several belvedere-s as part of the functional environs of the mosque.
the visitor’s experience.
Clock tower
Mosque
The position of the clock tower on the high-
The remnants of the mosque occupy an im- est part of the castle, make it highly impor-
portant part of the area adjacent to the en- tant as a visual element, which ought to be
trance of the castle. Situated strategically treated through the interventions.
between the two museums, the monuments • The checking of the hydro insulation
constitute an important element of the his- function of the clock tower roof.
tory of the castle and its people with Islam • Cleaning of the facades from algae and
over the centuries. replacement of damaged stone mason-
Provisions are made for the following inter- ry.
ventions: • Full reconstructing of the wooden stair-

70
case to make it more traditional and safe.
• The inner area could serve for informa- Tekke
tive aspects, as well as a small alterna-
tive museum and as a belvedere. This monument indicates the presence of
the Bektashi inside and around Kruja. Its lo-
cation on the lower part of the castle, some-
how hidden from view, still makes it part of
the cultural assets of the castle.
• The new bridge built in the year 2000,
could be dismantled in the mid-term
perspective and the reconfiguration of
the old access route, which traces are
clearly present can be a good solution.
• A return to identity of the monumental
graves in the courtyard of the tekke, by
restoring their elements.
• The restoration of the facade of the mod-
ern annex of the tekke, by proposing a
traditional facade, in order to integrate it
with the complex.
• Reconsidering the modern tekke build-
ing outside the tekke complex, possible
removal may be a solution.
• Paving of the courtyard with cobble
stones, and the addition of new cobble
stone pavement at the existing one.
• The creation of recreational elements in
the two belvederes next to the tekke.
• Consolidation of foundations on the
north-eastern side, based on observa-

71
tions of cracks on the facade of the mon- roof tiles with new ones of the same type.
ument. • Cleaning of interior of tekke from humid-
• Re-joining of openings, aesthetical in- ity affected elements, and the creation
terventions of the fugue of the whole fa- of an opportunity for the consolidation
cade, filling in additional elements and of the fresco if it results damaged by high
the checking the functional capabilities humidity already observed inside the
of the roof, by fully dismantling, new hy- monument. Conservation and preserva-
dro insulation, preserving the good roof tion of existing wooden elements on the
tiles, and replacement of the damaged facade.

roof, taking into account the high level of


Hammam humidity inside the monument.
• Dismantling the existing roof tiles, and
The hammam building is located adjacent the revitalisation of arcades and cupo-
to the tekke. Through the restoration and re- las.
habilitation of the monument, it is sought to • The creation of the new hydro-insula-
create the first in-use hammam in Albania. tion covers for the whole building, and
• Cleaning of vegetation and joints of the remodelling with mortar of the tiles,
stone masonry. replacing the damaged ones.
• Checking the functional aspects of the • Inside the hamman, it is proposed to fill

72
in the missing wall plaster within the ex- • The changing area is proposed to be cov-
isting structure, as well as filling in miss- ered by a new roof, which will increase
ing constructive elements. the use of the hammam, enabling the
• The pavement of the floor with stone ele- government to rent out the building
ments, highlighting the existing reserved while creating a solid revenue from its
elements. sustainable use.

73
Traditional buildings
Large one and two storey high traditional
buildings still exist within the castle walls.
Their state of reservations is not good, and
in same cases urgent intervention is requi-
red. Some of the houses are not inhabited
and the rest, have been restored in a wrong
way. We propose the thorough construc-
tive analysis of each building, replacing
constructive elements such as beams and
wooden columns, ceiling constructive de-
corative elements and the reshaping of the
constructive elements within the roofs. Af-
ter the reinforcement of the constructive
elements, the aesthetical treatment of the
exterior may begin. This action consists in
the refreshment of the roofs with traditional
tiles, after being treated with hydro insula-
tion material, the tiles can be mounted as
in other cases, with mortar, which are pre-
ceded by the restoration of the exterior roof
covers, which if deemed appropriate must
preserve their solid authentic elements. In
the traditional buildings the newly inserted
elements in a naïve and sporadic way will be
removed.
In the façade elements, such as doors and
windows, their conservation will be enabled
by treating them with anti-insect solutions:
• Restoration of wall plaster, painting with
traditional white wash.
• In the respective gardens, the garden
walls will be restored, reaching the ori-
ginal quotes, and the completion with
extra stone masonry walls when needed,
and vegetation removal. Original entran-
ces will be preserved and restored, ser-
ving as a model for the modern buildings
rehabilitation process.

Modern buildings
The modern buildings inside and near the
wall at the exterior of the castle, present in
an ugly way architectural fragments, impor-
ted and deformed, which makes the existen-
ce of those buildings unacceptable for the

74
historic setting of the castle. The imposing lued in the early buildings.
proposals for the future for the residents These interventions will be a good synchro-
of those objects, will consist in the rehabi- nisation of the exterior architecture in full
litation of these buildings in traditional ele- coordination with the existing construction,
ments, where the return in a stylized form of the latter being hidden under the now tradi-
the elements which are evidenced and va- tional cover.

75
ing it with a stratum of polycarbonate where
Church the introduction of natural light would be
present, making this monument visitable,
The church remains, situated on the both in terms of space and necessary light
north-eastern part of the castle complex, influx.
next to the clock tower and the fortification
wall, is a one nave church, where what has
been conserved until nowdays is only the Roads
perimeter of the walls in low levels, and the
whole has been covered with an existing Only a small part of the inner network of the
wooden cover, too heavy and competes with castle has been recently restored, while a
the monument itself. large part of the existing network needs con-
Inside the church, only on the south-western siderable intervention to refresh their con-
side, can be found traces of the early fresco tour and improve lost levels. Another sec-
walls, which is part of the floral decoration tion of those roads seems to have been lost
of the lower level stripe. forever. The intention is to rebuild those lost
It is proposed to test excavate the rest of the passages, working with the same technique.
church to clarify the lower possible levels of
its foundations. The removal unnecessary
elements of the masonry, cleaning the exist- Sewage rehabilitation
ing walls and relying on traditional methods
for its realisation, and if needed, after the Part of the traditional and modern buildings,
removal of the existing cover structure, this being enlarged and trying to adopt to mod-
could be replaced by a new metal cover, inox ern needs, have been using large quantities
or hard aluminium, or chromed iron, cover- of water and thus dispose along and outside

76
the fortification walls their excess water. fication walls, it is proposed to create green
This not pleasant view is to be fixed through spaces, combined with low and medium,
the construction of hidden collectors, which and partially high vegetation. The plans will
will collect all the waste water from all pos- be typical Mediterranean, as part of an inner
sible houses, and if possible to be connected treated landscape.
to the main city waste water treatment or The stone passages and the green space of
another bio treatment facility. This would those areas would create a pleasant back-
enable the disappearance of the pipes pro- ground putting forth the main elements of
truding on the south eastern façade of the this monumental complex. This would final-
fortification wall. ly put an end the sporadic parking which can
be easily seen within the castle, which alter
the functional image of the main squares of
Creation of green the castle.
Having in mind the large level differences
spaces within the castle, combined with the pebble
roads and green spaces, as functional and
The underlining of lost green space inside aesthetical part, would be the retaining and
the castle, between houses, roads and forti- division walls of those levels. Those would

77
create comfortable squares for recreation-
al uses, using the dry stone masonry tech-
nique.

Traditional bazaar
The traditional bazaar of Kruja, despite the
fact that has constantly been in the focus of
restoration interventions since 1961, shows
signs of degradation both from the urban
silhouette as well as the architectural ele-
ments. It can be clearly spotted the inter-
ventions which have fallen outside the tra-
ditional contours. The owners which have
replaced important elements with ordinary
elements, have brought inescapably the loss
of its traditional image. The tendency to
save this complex, although at a certain dis-
tance from the castle walls, would propose
the immediate freeze of all construction,
both illegal and non-professional in it. The
analysis and study of the function of old ma-
terials still preserved today, will be followed
by several actions such as:

78
• the creation of a complex and profes-
sional proposal for the preservation of Main national
older elements where possible,
• the replacement of damaged parts, es-
museum
pecially wooden elements, with similar The authorities intervention aim to rehabil-
ones both in terms in colour and durabil- itate, promote, protect the artifacts as well
ity, as the bring people closer to the museums.
• the unification of late interventions with They play an extremely crucial role in pre-
earlier professional ones, the return senting in full details the history of the coun-
in the original state, of all new window try as well as they are an important part on
openings which have damaged the val- the creation of revenue from visitors. The
ues of the south-western facades of the rehabilitation of the elevator, heating and
bazaar. cooling system has been foreseen.
• the last intervention would be aiming
the restoration of the roofs, from the first
to the third level, which apart from the Ethnographic
structural reconstruction, will be treat-
ed preserving the original tiles, the con- museum
nection with mortar, the characteristic
covers, and the preservation of various The museum is situated in a traditional
levels, quite characteristic and easily house, which will be fully restored, main
identified in the still intact older parts. original elements will be preserved and in-
An urgent matter would be the halt on each ternal lighting and presentation materials
spontaneous intervention until the serious will be fully reconfigured. The garden of the
and complete intervention we are propos- museum will be rehabilitated, offering extra
ing. space for evening outdoor activities during
the dry period.

79
80
81
Interpretation
signage
In the signalling system of this complex,
there will be two kinds of information pro-
vided, short and orienting, and long infor-
mation, with reduced historical elements.
The information network for the short and
orienting section, will begin at the main en-
trance of the castle, on the north-western
part, where the respective map and passag-
es of the castle will be situated. This map
will include brief explanations on the main
monuments within the castle.
A carefully studied network, will be used, in
order to inform on the access or not, accord-
ing to the values and possibilities of visits.
This will be made in order to have visitors
orient themselves quickly and easily in the
areas they want to go. The information pan-
els, with extended information, which will
placed nearby the monuments, will provide
the historic values, monumental values and
events of other important data related to the
monument. These panels, may be proposed
to be used accompanied with illumination
adopted for evening visits.

82
arches, while in the case of the upper part of
Monumental and the hammam cupola, particular attention is
functional lighting given to the beautiful and rigid structures
brought back after a long time, and will be
evidenced by the proposed lighting.
The limited existing illumination, will extend
to all the areas where revitalization is need-
ed. The functional lighting follows the peb-
FUTURE
ble roads, until the entrances of the various
monuments of this complex. The functional
INTERVENTIONS
lighting systems is divided into two types: EXPECTED
the low type, aimed at enhancing passag-
es, and high types, which lights widely the Interventions will aim at increasing the pos-
passages as well as different elements of the itive impact and image of the castle and the
recreational areas inside the castle, enabling country, protect the monumental complex,
their use in the evening and night. surges the life span of degraded materials,
The monumental lighting is categorised and increases the use of income and com-
within its own type, into exterior and interior fortable visits. The rehabilitation of public
type. The main exterior monumental type of space, museums and monuments, as well as
lighting will be the one devoted to the main the inner and outer illumination of the castle
fortification walls of the castle, placed at complex will allow for better appreciation of
the lower level of the walls, with warm col- the history.
ours in yellow, in combination with the local A special focus has been placed at the way
stone, trying to emphasize the important how the main national museums are man-
moments of this perimetral fortification. On aged and presented and a radical improve-
the exterior facades of the monuments of ment of the messages they transmit. A full
the complex, various ways will be used for intervention, would pave the way for a better
the lighting, depending on the architectonic presentation of the artifacts, as well as serve
styles, such as in the case of linear facades as a model for the rehabilitation of smaller
the lighting intends to be fully extended, national museums across the country.
while in the composite facades the lighting Specifically, some of the expected results of
follows the peculiarities of the style, in order the proposed intervention as foreseen are:
to highlight as much as possible, the differ- • Awareness raised (public and institu-
ences, and show the elements within them. tional) on the importance of preserving
In the inner monumental lighting, could cultural heritage and mainstreaming
emphasize the case of the tekke, where it into local and national development
the spot-like lighting, using a certain angle, programmes
would enhance the appreciation of the main • Conditions established for the creation
cupola decoration and auxiliary arcades and of job opportunities and the develop-

83
ment of business activities related to partners in implementing Knowledge Man-
cultural heritage, both directly (restora- agement activities on the theme of culture
tion works, museums, etc) and indirectly and development, will enable the messages
(tourism, traditional cultural produc- delivery intended to informing future culture
tions) and development programming and policy
• Local sustainable development fostered, in Albania. In this sense, the intervention re-
by means of improving the safeguarding sults and lessons learned will turn valuable
and management of cultural heritage, as and functional to raising awareness on the
well as the local tourism strategy and ac- importance of Albanian cultural heritage
tion plan both as a driver and enabler for sustainable
• Socio-economic conditions of vulnera- development, thus advocating for the main-
ble groups (with special focus on wom- streaming of culture and cultural heritage
en and youth) improved, by means of within national and local development strat-
their inclusion in the safeguarding of egies.
cultural heritage and in heritage-related
income-generating activities.
SUSTAINABILITY
Multiplier effects The financial aspect:
The concept of interventions, based on pre- • The activities related to the conservation
vious good practices developed by UNESCO and management of cultural heritage
at international level as well as Albanian and the promotion of cultural tourism
government at local level, is designed in supports and enhances the existing poli-
order to be replicable in any other cultural cies and programmes of the relevant na-
heritage site in Albania, such as the related tional and local authorities.
national tentative list (Durrës Amphitheatre, • The status of the venue as a first class
tombs of the lower Selca and natural and cul- national monument (determining an en-
tural heritage of the Ohrid region). In addi- hanced visibility and attractiveness) will
tion, the experiences developed throughout continue ensuring a competitive advan-
the project may be used to better tune the tage in terms of fund-raising for its future
project’s methodology on the specificities safeguarding and management, both
(institutional, operational, socio-economic) with regard to public funding as well as
of Albania, thereby facilitating its possible to alternative means of resource mobili-
replication elsewhere in the country. zation.
In this sense, one of the key added values for
the implementation and possible interven- Institutional level:
tion replications consists in the comprehen- • Institutional sustainability will be en-
sive and balanced composition of the key sured by the direct inclusion of all rele-
relevant actors. The role of the local gov- vant institutions in the project design
ernmental authority with specific mandate and implementation. Therefore, the ac-
on both culture and tourism is associated tor partnership shall determine the full
to the complementary role of the persons ownership of activities by the concerned
from targeted vulnerable groups and public institutions.
whose combined action and responsibili- • As already stated for what concern the
ties will be of crucial importance not only financial sustainability, the intervention
in terms of implementation, but also with activities are designed with a view at
regard to outreach and communication/dis- ensuring their coherence and function-
semination capacities. ality with regard to the already existing
he combined action of relevant Albanian policies and programmes of the relevant

84
national and local authorities. In particu- based on previously accomplished as
lar, the direct involvement of relevant in- well as future risk assessment exercis-
stitutions through the intervention will es, encompassing the possible impact of
have an impact in the sense of building environmental risks, and therefore con-
capacities for the continuation of their tributing to a better integration of herit-
action on the concerned issues. age-related and environmental policies.

Policy level: Social level:


• The action at policy level is one of the ba- • The inclusion of vulnerable groups and
sic elements of the interventions meth- the improvement of their social and eco-
odology and of its comprehensive ap- nomic conditions is a must. Such objec-
proach. In particular, it aims to increase tives will be pursued by means of a com-
the sustainability of current policies in prehensive approach integrating three
the concerned fields of action, especially complementary and mutually reinforc-
by means of the activities on the assess- ing fields of action: 1) the indirect (ca-
ment and implementation of cultural pacity-building) support to vulnerable
heritage- and tourism-related policies. groups for their participation in cultural
• The sustainability of the mentioned ac- heritage- and tourism-related income
tion at policy level will be ensured by the generating activities; 2) the improve-
direct operational involvement of relat- ment of cultural heritage conservation
ed government agencies, both at local and management; 3) the improvement
and national level, throughout the entire of tourism development policies and
design and implementation of the pro- programmes. In so doing, the activities
ject. directly targeting the inclusion of vulner-
able groups will be supported by a syner-
Environmental level: gic action aimed at enhancing the safe-
• The interventions planned do not in- guarding of the site and its attractiveness
clude any activity having a potential as a tourism destination, thereby build-
negative impact on environmental sus- ing essential elements of sustainability.
tainability. On the contrary, the support • In turn, the inclusion of vulnerable
offered to the safeguarding of built herit- groups will create the right conditions for
age will also contribute to the reduction the sustainability of the entire project, as
of environmental risks associated to the it is expected to have a positive impact
deterioration of such heritage. on social cohesion, which is a necessary
• Similarly, the activities on the safeguard- condition of a durable and equitable de-
ing/management of cultural heritage are velopment.

85
THE ROLE OF TOURISM
IN SUSTAINABLE
HERITAGE
MANAGEMENT
INTRODUCTION 88

CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORK 88

CASE STUDIES 91
Siedlęcin 91
Ślemień 94

CONCLUSIONS 96

REFERENCES 97

SIEDLĘCIN /
ŚLEMIEŃ –
POLAND

Wri en by
Michał Ryszard Koskowski
Kazimierz Waluch
(Founda on IRSiE, Warszawa, Poland)

86 aurore 86
Coat of arms of Ślemień

87
The article begins with a review of relevant
INTRODUCTION literature to review the relationship between
tourism and culture, to introduce the con-
The article explores the complex relationship cept of sustainability, and to explain the role
between heritage, socio-economic develop- of heritage tourism in sustainable develop-
ment and tourism, within the framework of ment. Then, a brief historic and ethnograph-
sustainability. The narrative’s central prem- ic account is given of each of the selected
ise states that heritage management is a pro- case study sites, followed by a closer exam-
cess that impacts and is impacted by both ination of the difficulties and opportunities
the tourism growth and the socio-economic that arise from particular methods of herit-
change, which is particularly important and age protection and interpretation observed
visible in the case of traditional settlements at the two locations.
(see Fig. 1). Two examples of heritage sites in The overall conclusion of the article is that
Poland have been selected to illustrate the despite the dominance of site-specific
concept: a Mediaeval tower-castle and the solutions, a balanced mix of economic and
surrounding rural estate in Siedlęcin, Lower socio-economic functions - including the
Silesia; and an open-air museum of folk life prominent role of heritage tourism - coupled
and architecture in Ślemień, Beskidy Moun- with appropriate conservation efforts is the
tains. Both cases, despite their contrasting preferred approach in site management for
origins and character, offer an opportunity sustainable development based on cultural
to study the key factors and functions of her- heritage resources.
itage management today.

CONCEPTUAL
FRAMEWORK
Tourism is increasingly recognised as a ma-
jor, global economic force, that contributes
to economic growth, job creation, and infra-
structure development. In 2016 internation-
al tourism generated 10% of world’s GDP,
and as an export category it ranked third,
after chemicals and fuels; international ar-
rivals reached over 1.2 million globally and
international tourism receipts amounted to
1.2 billion USD (UNWTO, 2017). Considering
that spending by domestic tourists typical-
ly surpasses that of international tourists by
approximately three to one (Deloitte, 2010),
tourism can easily be pictured as a substan-
tial economic phenomenon.
However, tourism is also a cultural activity.
Tourism and travel feature in almost every
known culture, driving social change and re-
generation, and culture remains one of the
Fig. 1. Heritage management aspects discussed fundamental tourism assets, as a rich source
in this article. Source: authors’ own compilation of experience, education and entertainment.
Monuments and sites, museums and art gal-
leries, sports and religions, festivals and mu-

88
sic events are among the key pull factors in 2015; Kay Smith & Diekmann, 2017; Kim,
domestic and international tourism. In Eu- Uysal, & Sirgy, 2013). Insufficient or superfi-
rope only, it is estimated that almost 50% of cial community engagement, overemphasis
all tourism activity is motivated by cultural of the needs of the tourists – only partially
heritage (Europa Nostra, 2005; Europa Nos- justified by the commercial imperative –
tra et al., 2015). All the same, tourism is one compounded by seasonal price variations,
of the vital sources of revenue for cultural in- overcrowding, radical cultural differences
stitutions and for host economies in general, and other factors may indeed fuel host com-
as well as a powerful rationale for cultural munities’ hostility towards tourism devel-
policy makers (Koskowski, 2015; Rebanks, opment (Garrod, Fyall, Leask, & Reid, 2012;
2010; Waluch, 2004). It can be argued that Leask, 2016). Frequent references to the fa-
tourism, and especially heritage tourism, is mous Doxey’s Irritation Index (Pavlić & Por-
indeed the most profitable field of interac- tonal, 2016; Reisinger, 2009) highlight that
tion between economy and culture, effec- antagonism is only a few steps away from
tively bridging the two seemingly separate euphoria, and the relationship between the
worlds (Koskowski, 2006). visitor and the visited is a delicate matter
It would be expected, therefore, that tour- (see Fig. 2).
ism management should make a significant
part of the process of heritage management.
In reality, however, heritage administrators
– or others responsible for the day-to-day
management of heritage sites – represent
strikingly diverse approaches to tourism.
Tourism can be treated as anything from a
nuisance to a goldmine. Visitors at heritage
sites should therefore be prepared to be
shunned, ignored, or exploited, just as well
as to be entertained and celebrated. Many
a heritage manager is still finding it difficult
to depart from the traditional “curatorial ap-
proach”, prevailing in 1990s, focused on car-
ing for and maintaining a historical proper-
ty, where the issue of public access remains
at best a secondary matter and sometimes
even a source of threat (Garrod & Fyall, 2000;
Stone, 2006). At the same time, some man- Fig. 2. Doxey’s Irritation Index
agers cannot resist transforming heritage Source: Reisinger (2009, s. 221)
sites into visitor attractions, at the expense
of quality and content of their interpretive
At heritage sites things are yet more com-
and research programmes (Graham, Ash-
plicated. Among the many elements that
worth, & Tunbridge, 2016; Landorf, 2009).
are at stake in this context is a combination
Equally diverse in intensity and direction are
of community values, heritage values, and
the host communities’ feelings about tour-
tourists’ interests. As said earlier, tourism
ists on their doorstep. Numerous research is often seen as a solid source of revenue –
papers have explored this issue in recent even its own self-image is that of predomi-
years to study the factors that influence lo- nantly an economic activity (Europa Nostra
cals’ affection (or the lack of it) for the vis- et al., 2015; European Tourism Manifesto,
iting strangers (see for example: Almeida 2017). What remains somehow ambiguous is
García, Balbuena Vázquez, & Cortés Macías, the role that tourism plays for heritage sites

89
and local communities. Indeed, the risks as- development (UNESCO, 2013). As far as tour-
sociated with tourism development at herit- ism is concerned, the United Nations World
age sites cannot be downplayed: commod- Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) embedded
ification and loss of authenticity, erosion of the concept of sustainable development in
traditional landscapes and values, and the its Global Code of Ethics for Tourism, whose
latest menace of over-tourism – are recog- Article 3 posits that the tourism-induced
nised and real threats to heritage conserva- economic growth should satisfy “equitably
tion and interpretation, social stability and the needs and aspirations of present and
cohesion (Garrod & Fyall, 2000; Higgins-Des- future generations” (UNWTO, 2001). The UN
biolles, 2017). Sustainable Development Goals embrace
It should not come as a surprise, therefore, both heritage protection and promotion of
that the complex relationship between cul- sustainable tourism (United Nations, 2015).
tural heritage and sustainable development The EU has also issued a number of rele-
has been a subject of significant political vant policy documents in this field (Europa
and academic activity in the last two dec- Nostra et al., 2015), and launched a system
ades (Garrod & Fyall, 2000; Pereira Roders of indicators, known as ETIS, encouraging
& van Oers, 2011; UNESCO, 2013; Zolfani, tourism destinations to adopt a balanced
Sedaghat, Maknoon, & Zavadskas, 2015). It approach to tourism planning (European
is now widely understood that heritage can Commission, 2016). Recently, the United Na-
both be the driver and the objective of sus- tions announced 2017 an International Year
tainable development: destinations rich in of Sustainable Tourism for Development to
cultural heritage can enjoy higher levels of highlight the tourism’s potential for “posi-
wellbeing, tolerance and safety, environ- tive change, prosperity and wellbeing” (UN-
mental quality, greater social cohesion, and ESCO, 2017).
more integrated spacial planning policies; As demonstrated above, the dominant nar-
investment in heritage preservation and rative maintains that positive aspects of
conservation is reported to create numer- tourism outweigh the threats it carries for
ous socially beneficent externalities (Europa communities, economies, culture and her-
Nostra et al., 2015). However, as this paper itage. The European Year of Cultural Her-
points out, specific decisions tend to be itage 2018 will also undoubtedly demon-
highly site-specific. In the case of built her- strate that heritage and tourism are closely
itage, the choice of solutions and interven- linked and positively interdependent. Her-
tions ultimately depends on the character itage sites should therefore be expected to
of the site, its setting and degree of preser- embrace the powerful ally in the person of
vation, and on the nature of its relationship a cultural tourist who, equipped in high-
with its stakeholders, in particular the tour- er-than-average cultural and financial capi-
ists and the local community. tal (Rebanks, 2010), brings income and glob-
The concept of sustainable development it- al recognition to often remote locations and
self has a long and turbulent history. In short, disused buildings. However, even assuming
since the momentous Brundtland Report the net positive social and economic effects
(Brundtland, 1987) it has become a by-word of tourism, the stark warning once uttered
for efficient management of the World’s lim- by Hewison (Hewison, 1987) remains valid:
ited resources – minimising impacts and the tourism-heritage relationship needs to
maximising benefits. Sustainability is typi- be carefully managed to prevent economic
cally envisaged as the right balance of eco- forces from turning heritage into yet another
nomic growth, environmental protection branch of the entertainment industry.
and social responsibility – recently, the UN
Hangzhou Declaration has elevated culture
to become the fourth factor of sustainable

90
different historical periods, functions, types
CASE STUDIES of ownership and approaches to heritage
preservation and interpretation. Neverthe-
Two sites have been selected to realise the less, both are purposefully open to visitors
objective of this study: a Medieval tower-cas- and offer the chance to explore the challeng-
tle in Siedlęcin and a contemporary open-air es and opportunities associated with herit-
folk museum in Ślemień; both in the south of age management and the role of tourism in
Poland (see Fig. 3). The two sites represent the process.

Fig. 3. Geographical position of the two case-study sites described in the article
Source: authors’ own compilation

ska, 2016; Nocuń, 2016).


Siedlęcin The tower has not changed much since the
day it was built, apart from natural wear and
The tower in Siedlęcin (Fig. 4) was construct- tear, necessary repairs and slight interior
ed in years 1313-1315 by Henry I, Duke of repurposing, including changes in function
Jawor (Nocuń, 2016). Originally built as a that followed several changes of ownership.
large, defensive-residential keep (perhaps a In consequence, it still boasts most of the
hunting lodge), surrounded by a wall and a original timberwork and other structural ele-
moat, the castle in Siedlęcin is a typical ex- ments (Nocuń, 2016). The tower’s surround-
ample of a dwelling of this type in Central ings developed more substantially in time.
Europe. Located in the heart of the Duchy Almost since its founding, the estate had
of Jawor and Świdnica, one of the richest economic functions and included a couple
regions of Central Europe at that time, sit- of water mills, several fish ponds, a grazing
uated at an important trade route and river meadow and a sheep shed. Today, the set-
crossing, and close to an already settled vil- tlement also includes a manor house (that
lage, the tower was one of over fourty keeps, incorporated the original gatehouse) and a
built by Henry I and his father Bolko I at the number of partially ruined agricultural out-
break of the 13th and 14th centuries (Adam- buildings in the farmyard; since the late 18th

91
Fig. 4. The tower in Siedlęcin and the farmyard buildings
Source: Elżbieta Wojczuk, www.facebook.com/wiezasiedlecin

c. most of the castle moat has been filled in. well-connected noble couple. They adorned
Recently, the area has been the subject of what once used to be the ceremonial great
extensive archaeological excavations that hall of the tower, and tell the romantic and
shed new light on its complex history. The tragic story of Lancelot, the most famous
community that grew around the tower and and charismatic of the legendary Knights of
on the other side of the river is now an aver- the Round Table. The work has never been
age-sized, Silesian village, with two church- finished and we will probably never uncov-
es and a (currently disused) train stop. It is er the founder’s original intention behind
conveniently located only 5 km away from a this undoubtedly expensive commission. It
sizeable city of Jelenia Góra, which remains can only be speculated that the story of Sir
the main source of employment and visitors. Lancelot was meant as a warning, or per-
What makes the tower in Siedlęcin stand haps an inspiration for the closest circle of
out as a tourist attraction, apart from its ob- the Duke’s friends. Today’s visitors will rath-
vious historical value, are the decorations er marvel at the craftsmanship of the artist
of the great hall of the keep, located on the and the imagination of his benefactor.
second floor. Today, they are the only sur- Arthurian legends used to and still do evoke
viving, 14th c. mural paintings depicting the chivalric ethos of the Middle Ages, which
the story of Sir Lancelot, conserved in their surely contributes to the feeling of being
original place (Witkowski, 2001) (Fig. 5). transported in time that accompanies vis-
The paintings, whose unnamed author may itors to the Siedlęcin tower. The paintings
have come from as far as Switzerland, were were discovered in 1877, after a period when
commissioned by Duke Henry I and his wife, the tower had been used as a granary, and
Agnes of Bohemia – a well-educated and much more recently have been meticulously

92
renovated at the behest of the current own- ditionally, free-of-charge visits are organised
er of the castle. Undoubtedly, the Arthurian on a regular basis for local schools, and pop-
murals are the main asset of Siedlęcin, but ular regional and traditional food fairs are
the castle and the remains of a once-pros- held in the tower grounds. At almost every
perous estate can be also visited for their opportunity the local community receives
picturesque setting on a riverbank and the due attention from the tower owners, how-
specific charm of the place – a genius loci – ever informal interviews with members of
highlighted in many positive comments in the Association indicate that the relation-
the visitor book and social media channels. ship is yet far from reciprocity.
The tower is under management by a dedi- The evolution of the relationship between
cated Association, acting on behalf of a pri- the local community and the site owner in
vate Foundation. The last ownership change Siedlęcin is a good illustration of the pro-
of the estate took place in 2001, when it was cesses that built heritage has to undergo in
sold by the Treasury as a broke and disused Central and Eastern Europe at the beginning
collective farm – a failed communist govern- of the 21st c. It is also a classic example of
ment undertaking. Both the Association and the so called ‘heritage cycle’, which assumes
the Foundation, however, represent people that cultural heritage can become part of
and money, whose origin is largely not lo- our lives only if we wish so, and we usually
cal. As such – and given the sudden activity need to begin with understanding in order
at the site which was not always welcome to proceed to appreciating and caring (Thur-
– they have been treated with much suspi- ley, 2005) (Fig. 6). The historical events that
cion and even silent opposition by the local shaped current attitudes in Lower Silesia
community and a lot of effort was needed to have also left deep scars and much disso-
convince the villagers of the good intentions nance. Heritage owners need not to neglect
of the new owners. Trust was won by a string these dynamics. It appears that the man-
of difficult decisions, such as not restricting agers of the Siedlęcin tower have managed
access to the estate grounds, criss-crossed to strike an exemplary, if fragile, balance
by public footpaths, or by closing a blind eye between commercial pursuits, scientific re-
on youth gathering in the adjacent park. Ad- search and community relations.

Fig. 5. The great hall of the tower with the mural paintings
Source: Nocuń (2004)

93
Fig. 6. The heritage cycle
Source: cultureindevelopment.nl

and sometimes also a socio-political functi-


Ślemień on (Forrest, 2010).
The artificial spacial and historical setting
The site in Ślemień is an example of herita- of an open-air museum has also been sub-
ge protection ex situ, away from the original ject of criticism. The enclosed and idealised
setting, in purposefully designed surround- surroundings in which buildings are placed
ings of an open-air museum. Otherwise in an open-air museum are said not only to
known as skansens, the open-air museums create a sanitised, perfected image of the
are collections of buildings, predominantly past, but also to isolate them from the mo-
vernacular, assembled to represent a given dern world. By doing so they strengthen an
period of history, culture or style typical for association that ‘old’ architecture belongs in
a given area. The concept to remove enti- the museum. According to some authors (see
re buildings or even groups of buildings in for instance Oliver, 2001), this contributes to
order to recreate cultural landscapes in a historical detachment and the destruction
designated space was born in Scandinavia of vernacular architecture found beyond the
at the end of the 19th c. (Oliver, 2001). The boundaries of skansens.
skansen is supposed to bear the closest pos- Open-air museums worldwide are known
sible resemblance to the original (or typical), under different names: outdoor museums,
historical and functional context in which village museums, museum villages, working
the buildings existed – or would have existed historical farms etc. (Rentzhog, 2007). What
in a selected historical period – thus recrea- they have in common is that they attempt
ting as much as possible of their contextual to portray social history: lives and trades
integrity while performing an educational of ordinary people, as illustrated through

94
reconstructed building interiors, furnished and folk romanticism are not enough to
with typical equipment, and real or ima- attract visitors – or to secure support in the
gined characters, that together deliver dy- local community (Rentzhog, 2007).
namic, interpretive programmes. Open-air The skansen at Ślemień – also known as Et-
museums are often mentioned as places nopark – is at the time of writing the youn-
where one can “step into the past” (Oliver, gest open-air museum in Poland. It is also
2001, p. 207) thanks to their unusual setting one of the smallest in the country – it is a col-
and engaging design, which offer a multidi- lection of only 17 structures from the moun-
mensional visitor experience, unlike an ordi- tain region of Beskid Żywiecki. It includes,
nary museum. among others, a smithy, a village school, a
It should be expected that the attractive village pharmacy, a medicine woman’s hut,
setting, complemented with various visi- a granary, and a number of huts and farm-
tor activities, will draw visitors to open-air houses, as well as sheds, wells and other
museums in scores. However, evidence sug- structures. The plants, trees, paths and the
gests that, unlike amusement parks, they general layout of the site represent typical
are rather perceived by the general public surroundings and setting of a highland sett-
as typically educational institutions and are lement in this part of Poland at the break
at best frequented by school groups, as an of the 20th c. (Fig. 7). Also the handcrafted
ethnographic component of the curriculum. souvenirs and merchandise on sale in the
Here lies the biggest challenge to skansens museum shop reflect local tradition.
in the 21st c., when nostalgia for the past A visit to the museum can be self-guided

Fig. 7. One of the traditional buildings re-erected in the open-air museum in Ślemień
Source: Kielur & Hołyszko (2016)

95
but the real strength of the skansen in Śle- with an open-minded and hands-on ap-
mień are the passionate and knowledgeable proach, thus managing the balancing act
members of staff, who also conduct guided between didactical idealism, embedded in
tours of the site. Not every aspect of the nar- the very concept of an open-air museum
rative is self-evident, so it helps to have a gu- (Oliver, 2001), and visitor engagement. Gi-
ide point to the visitor the stylistic similarity ven enough time and funding, it might turn
of some of the houses to the Alpine regions the skansen into a major local cultural ins-
of Austria, or to identify Balkan ornamental titution on par with conventional museums
influences in the cloth and clothing on disp- such as the City Museum ‘Stary Zamek’ in
lay in some of the houses. The museum also the nearby city of Żywiec or the City Museum
organises regular events associated with sea- at the Renaissance castle in Sucha Beski-
sons, folklore, religious traditions, pastoral dzka. However, the greatest challenge for
activities etc. which boost ticketed visits and the museum in Ślemień, ironically, might be
increase the popularity of the Etnopark. Like not to attract more tourists but to finally win
many other open-air museums, it also offers the hearts and minds of the locals.
a modest choice of publications and its staff
get involved in research and other activities.
Recently, similar to the tower in Siedlęcin, CONCLUSIONS
the Etnopark hosted an event organised by
a local NGO as part of the “Volunteering for The two sites described in the article rep-
Heritage” activity programme funded by the resent some of the key issues that affect
Polish Ministry of Culture and National Heri- heritage management in Poland today (see
tage, which gathered a number of young fol- Fig. 8). It is evident that tourism plays a ma-
klore enthusiasts and local elders, willing to jor role in both cases. Both Ślemień and Si-
share their stories and experience (Chabiera, edlęcin need to compete with alternative
Kozioł, & Skaldawski, 2017). attractions, deliver visitor satisfaction and
Press releases, published interviews and value-for-money. In order to attract visitors
an informal conversation with the museum they need to identify and communicate their
staff indicate that the idea for Etnopark in significance in both the local and the wider
Ślemień was indeed a one-woman’s dream context. To this end – even if not always by
(Żywiec.info, 2013). The construction of the design - both sites apply effective marketing
museum took five years between 2008 and measures, organise engaging events and
2013, facing a string of obstacles, political, do not shy away from bold interpretive sta-
financial and organisational, also including tements. However, it is also notable that it
a palatable lack of local support. Not only in is not tourism, but relations with the local
the rural community of the southern Poland community, that require most of the site ma-
has the 20th c. modernisation drawn peop- nager’s attention.
le away from their roots and strengthened a In Siedlęcin, tourists and day trippers are,
popular view that old and traditional are sy- first and foremost, a vital source of revenue.
nonymous with obscure and backward. The- Given the nature of site ownership and the
very limited state subsidies that it receives,
re are local voters and politicians who would
the recorded steady growth of ticketed visits
rather see public money spent elsewhere
remains the castle’s financial lifeline. A lot of
than on the rehabilitation of disused verna- the owner’s efforts have gone, however, into
cular architecture, ignoring evidence about building rapport with the village commu-
the social and economic role of heritage, nity, who has been identified as one of the
and the identity- and community-building factors that affect the sustainability of the
potential of tradition. site. It means not only controlling or avert-
To sum up, the Etnopark in Ślemień com- ing unwelcome or damaging behaviour but,
bines professional curatorial management more importantly, in building a relationship,

96
that contributes to the already mentioned lenge at this stage.
unique character and atmosphere of the pla- The study demonstrates that the concept of
ce. It takes patience, dedication, a lot of net- sustainability may not explicitly be part of a
working and a range of soft skills, which can given heritage management strategy, yet it
sometimes be at a shortage. Being a work- can be attributed to the managers’ concern
in-progress, it is difficult to predict its results in the durability and fairness of their activi-
but successful cooperation with schools and ties. Interestingly, it is most notable not in
local entrepreneurial individuals who parti- how tourists are approached, but how locals
cipate in trade fairs bid well for the future of are treated.
the process.
In Ślemień, too, numerous examples of
community work can be noted – in some REFERENCES
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99
TRADITIONAL
SETTLEMENTS,
CULTURAL HERITAGE
AND SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT IN
OBSOTELJE AND
KOZJANSKO REGION

TRADITIONAL SETTLEMENTS AND


CULTURAL HERITAGE IN OBSOTELJE
AND KOZJANSKO REGION 102

IMPORTANCE OF HERITAGE
INTERPRETATION 103

BEST PRACTICES 104


Tradiঞonal market towns 105

OBSOTELJE & Pilštanj


Podsreda
106
107

KOZJANSKO –
Lemberg 108
Importance of Regional park 109
Kozjansko Park 109

SLOVENIA Preservaঞon of tradiঞonal se‚lements


in open air museum
Open-air museum Rogatec
110
110
Green Scheme of Slovenian Tourism 112

CONCLUSION 113
Wri‚en by WHERE THE SOUL FINDS ITS OWN
Anita Čebular PLACE 113
Janja Sivec
(Razvojna agencija Sotla, Šmarje pri Jelšah,
Slovenia)

100 aurore 100


Coat of arms of Slovenia

101
for farmers or day labourers, middle-class
TRADITIONAL farmers as well as wealthy landowners. The
SETTLEMENTS AND fundamental difference between them was
in the size, materials, and ornamental ad-
CULTURAL HERITAGE ditions to the facade. The construction of
IN OBSOTELJE AND residential houses had to constantly adapt
to the people’s lifestyles and work. It is char-
KOZJANSKO REGION acterized by the rational use of the materials
available and the effective placement in the
The Republic of Slovenia is characterized diverse terrain.
by a large number of settlements. Although According to the criterion of placement in the
the national terri¬tory extends on the 20,273 terrain, there are single-storey, multiple-sto-
km2, there are more than 6,000 settlements rey houses, and houses leaning in against a
registered. hill or pushed up against a hill. To illustrate
All rural residential houses have a very sim- the structure of floor plan we have shown a
ilar character, especially similar building sketch of Type D. The roofing is character-
types. This is their characteristic feature. The ized by a symmetrical gable roof and slope
same goes for all types of farm buildings, of 45–50 degrees. A surface and height ratio
such as wineries, granaries, multipurpose of 1:2 is also a common characteristic of all
outbuildings, mills. Uniformity, not equality, the houses.
in the architecture of these houses is a par- In this region you may go from forest to or-
ticular effect of this consistency in construc- chard to meadows and fields continuously.
tion, which is another characteristic feature. Extraordinary diversity of plant and animal
It was used in the construction of houses life was left to us by our grandparents, who

102
knew precisely how to listen to the mother
nature and work with her in the best possi-
ble way. Once its geography presented travel
challenges, but nowadays easy travel allows
for a luxurious stay, providing experiences
with nature, relaxation and understanding
of genuine human relationships.

IMPORTANCE
OF HERITAGE
INTERPRETATION
Despite today’s high-tech means of preserv-
ing memory, traditional methods remain
important. One of the most important chal- of heritage interpretation buy defining six
lenges of our time is ensuring sustainable principles that quality interpretation should
practices and development in environmen- follow.
tal and social contexts. Heritage interpreta-
Any interpretation that does not somehow
tion is communication skill that connects
relate what is being displayed or described
visitors to heritage by reveling different
meanings about nature and culture, tangi- to something within the personality or expe-
ble and intangible heritage with the help of rience of the visitor will be sterile.
stories that carry universal messages. Inter- Information, as such, is not Interpretation.
pretation has aim, objectives, themes and Interpretation is revelation based upon in-
messages that interpreters convey, with the formation. Nevertheless, they are entirely
help of different tools to the visitors of a cer- different things. However all interpretation
tain heritage site. includes information.
First one to define heritage interpretation Interpretation is an art, which combines
was Freeman Tilden who wrote in his book many arts, whether the materials presented
Interpreting our Heritage in 1957 that: Herit- are scientific, historical or architectural. Any
age interpretation is an educational activity art is in some degree teachable.
which aims to reveal meanings and relation- The chief aim of Interpretation is not instruc-
ships through the use of original objects, tion, but provocation.
by first-hand experience, and by illustrative Interpretation should aim to present a whole
media, rather than simply to communicate rather than a part, and must address itself to
factual information. the whole man rather than any phase.
Many others have written their own defini- Interpretation addressed to children (say up
tions in the years since Tilden defined her- to the age of twelve) should not be a dilution
itage interpretation but in general they all of the presentation to adults, but should fol-
define heritage interpretation as designed low a fundamentally different approach. To
communication process that engages emo- be at its best it will require a separate pro-
tions, experiences and connects people with gram.
the legacy of their past.1 Interpret Europe describes heritage inter-
Tilde also established basic methodology pretation principles as interpretive triangle.
Where we have basic aim of heritage inter-
1 The National Association for Interpretation, pretation; reveling meanings in the middle,
The Association for Heritage Interpretation surrounded by other features that we want
and Interpret Europe. to offer or trigger with our visitors; first-hand

103
Landscape offers us stories that will reveal
how our way of life has changed through his-
tory. Once busiest roads became periphery,
when railway was built in the middle of the
19th century. How once, hearts of trade and
life, town centers are slowly dying due to life-
style changes. Nevertheless, rural areas, al-
ternative to modern lifestyle, are becoming
more populated and visited by tourists, due
to people recognizing the value of re-con-
nection to our natural and cultural heritage.
experience with original heritage phenome- Landscape in its broadest definition of being
na, active involvement of and exchange with a witness of interchanging relationship be-
participants, commitment to the idea of car- tween nature and humans is a never-ending
ing for heritage. supply of stories for different communities.
Good interpretation has a good plan. Inter- Heritage communities, people who have
pretive planning starts with recognizing the recognized value and significance of herit-
significance of our heritage and defining the age and are working together with the same
stories that we want to tell. Including people aim, of preserving heritage for future gener-
that could reveal different meaning about ations, have in heritage interpretation the
the heritage, we want to interpret, or better tools with which they can tell their stories
yet to interpret the stories that heritage com- and a way to make their stories significant
munity finds significant. This stage is also to others. By making their heritage relevant,
about responsibility, who is going to man- they will also make their heritage economi-
age the interpretation. The most successful cally profitable.
stories are the one where heritage commu- Touristic products like accommodations in
nity takes responsibility for the heritage. traditional built houses, guided tours and
Major part in our planning falls on whom we other activities in the landscape, tourism
are interpreting it for. Only than should we products based on gastronomy of the area
choose the best media (tools of personal etc. Other opportunities are also products
and non-personal interpretation) to convey based on traditional knowledge like craft,
the story. Often forgotten but much neces- products from plants known in folk med-
sary stage is evaluation. Does our interpre- icine, school programs in nature or about
tation work what to change how to adapt? living on a farm and all the other skills and
That is why evaluation should be part of the knowledge about the way of life that is slow-
planning and not an afterthought. ly dying with pre II. WW generations.
Heritage interpretation is not just about in- Examples of heritage communities who have
terpreting natural and cultural heritage. It is recognized the value of their heritage and
about telling stories of communities. Who are working together with the institution in
they are and what is their story about the preserving it.
connection to the landscape.
Landscape offers the best synergy between
nature and human. It tells the story of how BEST PRACTICES
humans created culture within the nature.
The European Landscape Convention sees A visit of Obsotelje and Kozjansko always
landscape as a reflection of European iden- feels like coming home and the welcome re-
tity and diversity, the landscape is our living ceived by people who live here is the reason
natural and cultural heritage, be it ordinary we visit again. The locals still know a thing
or outstanding, urban or rural, on land or in or two about the old folk customs, as they
water. are keeping customs alive in order to pre-

104
serve the legacy of previous generations. Do
you know how many pieces and craft skills it
Traditional market
takes to make an organ? Have you ever felt towns
the power of fire that creates a crystal mas-
terpiece with the help of a glassblower? Do Beneath the castles and at intersections
you know how to knit a bag out of husk, a of important trade routes, settlements
basket out of rod or weave a bracelet on a in Obsotelje and Kozjansko region were
plaiting comb? We could ask some questions. erected and slowly expanded into market
Locals know the answers to these questions towns (Kunšperk, Podsreda, Kozje, Pilštanj,
so do not hesitate and learn something new. Podčetrtek, Lemberg, and Rogatec). Most
The intertwinement of historical periods came into existence in the 14th and 15th cen-
bring us both happy and tragic stories of lo- turies. The position of those market towns
cals, evokes old skills and gives us the feel- beneath important road passes and slopes
ing of eternity. This region is famous for its or on top of hills promoted the settlement of
authentic medieval markets, baroque exces- craftsmen that were important for travelling
sive segments and sacral architecture where salesmen and people who transported car-
styles mesh and are truly more intriguing. go. Among those were blacksmiths, wheel-
Markets in this region can show you the past wrights, belt manufacturers, saddle makers,
by telling numerous stories about events rope makers and others. Road conditions
and people. Do not miss a humorous trial called for a break, rest, repairs, reloading
with the help of pillory or any other tradi- and accommodation.
tional event that fills up historic center. In market towns, trade at prestigious annual
fairs, later joined by weekly markets played
an important role. Market towns therefore

105
have a location for markets and fairs where have been preserved in Slovenia.
the trading took place. In addition, the ju- Pilštanj also features a silver town seal from
dicial function was performed in market the mid-15th century, which is one of the
towns. As an external symbol of the judicial finest examples. It bears the inscription
system, there are three pillories (in Podsre- “Sigillium civitas Peilnstain” and the coat
da, Pilštanj and Lemberg) intended for pun- of arms of Pilštanj in the middle. Today, it
ishing offenders. More recently, a sharper is preserved in the Museum of Posavje in
focus on the retail future of market towns Brežice. Directly below the market town is
began to emerge. the solitary rock formation Ajdovska žena
(Pagan Woman). The pagan woman legend
Pilštanj still lives among the locals. The people from
Pilštanj are proud of the European cornel
The market town of Pilštanj is one of the (Cornus mas) overgrowing the surrounding
settlements in Kozjansko that has one of thermophilous slopes. The Pilštanj footpath
the most picturesque positions in the land- will take you through the market town and
scape, above the Bistrica valley. It was first its surroundings and is also linked to the
mentioned in 1404 and received market Lesično Educational Water Trail.
rights in 1432, thus also receiving the right to Pilštanj a 15th century market town has an
hold a fair on the day of the parish’s patron interesting story on how once bustling mar-
saint St. Michael. The pillory or “pranger” ket town became forgotten by industrial rev-
has also been preserved. It could date to the olution and building roads that bypassed
17th century, i.e. the same as in Podsreda. them. But heritage community is aware of
It is a rare relic of the judicial system before the rich history of the town and is keen on
the time of Maria Theresia of which only few interpreting intangible heritage of the place.

106
Especially interpreting traditions of Pente- they have to be authentic, made by heritage
cost have become one of the most recogniz- community because they are the ones to tell
able activities of the heritage community in their own stories.
Pilštanj.
Intangible heritage has become one of the Podsreda
top priorities with institutions worldwide.
UNESCO has popularized, with the Lists of As a market town with the usual market
Intangible Cultural Heritage, or beliefs, prac- rights and privileges it is first mentioned in
tices and customs. We have finally realized 1377. Today, the pillory – “pranger” is still
that objects without stories are just that, ob- a reminder of that era. The development
jects. We need stories to bring material alive. of the Podsreda market town was centred
We need to relate with past generations, so around a narrow, oblong space on a some-
that we are able to rethink how we live today what elevated terrace. Since the town never
and that some things do not change through grew past its edge, it was always protected
centuries. Like love, lost, birth, death etc. from flooding. The biggest danger to urban
Universal meanings are revealed with sto- settlements was fire since it was hard to keep
ries about intangible heritage and who bet- under control due to numerous wooden
ter to tell them than local community with structures, unsuitable chimneys, low-quali-
their storytellers. For interpreting intangible ty construction as well as due to the distance
heritage means of personal interpretation from water. Podsreda experienced the rage
(live interpretation/re-enactments, guid- of fire having burned down twice. Therefore,
ing, events …) are usually most successful, all the houses in the market town, including
but there are also some options in tools of the church, were built after 1798, when the
non-personal interpretation – like audio first fire ruined Podsreda.
guides, apps for smart phones, books with The skyline of the town is distinctively dom-
folk tales … But to make them successful inated by the Church of St. John the Baptist,

107
constructed at the beginning of the 19th had no walls. It reached its climax in the
century, which replaced an older building. 18th century. When the parish was moved to
Today, Podsreda is an interesting market Sladka Gora and the road led through Peči-
town with a traditional market town parcel- ca and Podplat, it started to fall apart in the
lation. The ground plan of the settlement is first half of the 19th century. It burnt down
funnel shaped. The main street is bordered on two occasions. Its noble past is attested
by townhouses on both sides, their longer by the pillory in the middle of the square and
side facing the market space and thus form- the former town hall next to it.
ing the “facade” edge of the market. With its Even older as Pilštanj is a market town Lem-
position, it belongs to the few areas with an berg whose strategic position on an impor-
extraordinary cultural landscape. The settle- tant crossroad enabled it to become an im-
ment is a cultural monument. portant trading center of the area. Leather
and pottery industry were his trademarks,
Lemberg but moving of the parish church and build-
ing the road that bypassed it, Lemberg went
The settlement that developed under the into decline. His tangible heritage was rec-
castle was mentioned as a patrimonial ognized by its heritage community who
square with ordinary market rights and priv- works actively on its preservation and inter-
ileges in 1386 and 1436. Its position on the pretation. But sometimes it can be difficult
crossing of roads towards Šmarje, Rogatec to imagine times long gone. With the help
and Poljčane enabled the development of of interpretive panels, art installations, apps
trade and crafts. Later, the square obtained and other tools of interpretation, we can
the right to six annual and cattle fairs. Pot- help visitors to relate with the rich history of
tery and the leather trade were important the landscape.
crafts. However, Lemberg failed to devel-
op anything more than a market street and

108
the most important nature reserves in Slo-
Importance of venia and Europe, and most of the park is
Regional park protected as a special NATURA 2000 reserve.
It is responsible for implementing all the na-
tional nature conservation legislation in this
Kozjansko Park area. Till now, many projects were success-
fully completed. Kozjansko Park has stab-
More than 50% of the land in Slovenia is
lished very strong connections to the local
protected and more than 30% is Natura
inhabitants and schools and represents very
2000-designated, which is the highest per-
significant part of cultural and social life in
centage of the European Union member
the area. Since 2010, the area of Kozjansko
countries.
and Obsotelje regions have enjoyed the sta-
Kozjansko Park is an IUCN category V pro-
tus of a biosphere reserve under the protec-
tected area – a Regional Park. It measures
tion of UNESCO (MAB Programme - Man and
206-sq. km. and it was founded in year 1981
biosphere).
with the proclamation of the law by the Par-
They could be just another protected area if
liament of Slovenia. The Centre is in small
village Podsreda (Slovenia). It is very rich they had not defined what is the story of the
in natural and cultural heritage, there are area. Story that connects nature, people and
no heavy industries or any others activities, cultural heritage are apples. Not just any
which would have negative influence on kind of apples, they are the leading producer
protected area. of old sorts of apples that do not need to be
Kozjansko park is located in the Eastern part treated with chemicals. The story, because
of Slovenia and is a mosaic comprised of it is significant to heritage community and
the sub-Alpine Posavsko Hills, wine-bearing relevant to other visitors, became a success
slopes, and plains along the Sotla River. The with high demand of young apple trees that
hight rate of biodiversity ranks him among people plant at home and recognizable tour-

109
ist product in kozjansko apple. the heritage, health, and recognition of the
Heritage interpretation offers many tools Kozjansko Park protected area.
to interpret stories of heritage communi-
ty, but the key is that community recognize
the stories are their own. That way they will Preservation
recognize the potentials in implementing
the story of kozjansko apple in different of traditional
products from gastronomy and homemade
apple products, to promotion and interpre-
settlements in open
tation of ecologically friendly farming, tour- air museum
istic events that bring different stakeholders
under one cover story, which is kozjansko
apple. One of the principles of heritage in- Open-air museum Rogatec
terpretation in revealing the whole and not
just parts of the story, so kozjansko apple As it is known, the initial aim of forming of
should also be part of the big picture of the open-air museums was formulated quite
landscape of Obsotelje in Kozjansko, how it narrowly: monuments had been transported
represents the way of life in this area, way do with the purpose of their rescue. They had
people relate with this story and the end why been placed in the new territory of museum
does one apple per day keeps doctor away. in neighbourhood with the other objects,
The Kozjansko apple from the meadow or- and it was not taken into account that they
chards has become a symbol of environ- belonged to the certain historical and cul-
mentalism, sustainability, preservation of tural zone, occasionally the whole ensemble

110
of installations was not taken into account. The Rogatec Open Air Museum comprises 15
However, in open-air museums, especial- different relocated or reconstructed build-
ly in those which are created at the places ings and associated materials that make up
(“in situ”), under skilful use of both immov- the museum space and form three separated
able and movable monuments and under sections. The homestead of poet Jože Šmit
professional management it is possible to (1922–2004) with a garden, an outhouse
achieve feeling of spirit historical place, new with manure pit and a field toilet, beehives,
socio-cultural situations and new objects of a pig stable, and a hay rack (kozolec). The
demonstration. administrative part are loden, an old shop
Founded in 1981, the Rogatec Open Air Mu- with mixed merchandise, which is today
seum is Slovenia’s largest and most ambi- also a museum shop and office. The third
tious skanzen (open-air village museum), part is a domestic inn with a wine cellar and
with more than a dozen mostly original bar called pušenšank surrounded with vines
structures, moved here in the early 1980s. that provide welcome shade in the summer
It presents unique cultural, ethnological, and juicy grapes in the fall.
regional, and historical features of eastern There are regular displays (including partic-
Slovenia. The museum presents the life and ipation) of activities such as weaving, stone
work of farmers and craftsmen at the end of cutting, bread making and so on.
the 19th century and the beginning of the It aims to conserve, use and develop the
20th in the Rogatec area, under the Boč, heritage and to sustain it values and signif-
Donačka Gora, and Macelj Hills. In 1999, it icance by giving the heritage a compatible
was declared a cultural site of national im- use. The Rogatec Institute manages the Ro-
portance and in 1997 it was nominated for a gatec Open Air Museum, the Strmol Manor
European Museum Award. and sites in the medieval town of Rogatec.

111
Museum activities combine and present the Green Policy of Slovenian Tourism sets out
local history and ethnology through guided the fundamental commitment of Slovenian
tours, craft workshops, oenology experienc- tourism to operate according to sustainabili-
es, and horse riding expeditions. Because of ty principles and to make continuous efforts
the interesting programmes for youth and to improve.
adults, the Rogatec Open Air Museum is one Till now, Slovenia offers a total of 37 destina-
of the most visited museums in Slovenia; tions, 21 accommodation providers, 3 natu-
many visit it repeatedly, depending on the ral parks and 2 agencies, which comply with
season and the work and farm activities that the green strategy and pride themselves on
have to be done at that time. having obtained the Slovenia Green label.
To obtain the Slovenia Green Destination
label (Bronze/Silver/Gold), the destinations
Green Scheme of must follow eleven steps (appointment of a
Slovenian Tourism green coordinator, setting up a green team,
increasing awareness, signing a green poli-
The destination Obsotelje and Kozjansko, cy, carrying out surveys, gathering informa-
with Podčetrtek, Rogaška Slatina and Koz- tion, submitting reports and the application
jansko Park, is one of the destinations that for an assessment, drafting an action plan
have entered a pilot national programme for measures, determining the local charac-
called Green Scheme for Tourism in Slove- ter and USP, submitting an application for a
nia which is being implemented under the field visit, realizing measures and, after three
patronage of the Slovenian Tourist Board. years, re-assessment), which are evaluated
The main goal of the programme is to pro- using a point system from 1 to 10.
mote sustainable tourism development in We have to golden labels in our region
Slovenia. (Rogaška Slatina and Podčetrtek) and one
What is the Green Scheme of Slovenian Slovenia green park label (Kozjansko Park).
Tourism? The GSST is a tool and a certifica- Destination gets SGD gold label, if at least
tion programme that brings together all the three of the five categories have 8 points or
efforts directed towards the sustainable de- more and where at least one of those three
velopment of tourism in Slovenia, evaluates categories is directly linked to tourism (Des-
and improves the sustainability endeavors tination management or Socio - Economic
of destinations and providers, and finally situation) and it has at least one accom-
promotes green achievements through the modation provider with the label, verified
Slovenia Green brand. The Green Scheme by Slovenia Green. To obtain the SLOVENIA
of Slovenian Tourism (GSST) is a tool devel- GREEN PARK label, the provider must sub-
oped at the national level and a certification mit proof of ownership of one of the two la-
programme that carries out the following bels, verified by the scheme.
tasks under the SLOVENIA GREEN umbrella The project complements the already well-
brand: brings together all efforts directed known slogan I feel Slovenia with anoth-
towards the sustainable development of er one – Green. Active.Healthy. The slogan
tourism in Slovenia, offers tools to desti- Slovenia – Green Destination establish the
nations and service providers that enable whole destination on the Slovenian and,
them to evaluate and improve their sustain- above all, European and global market as an
ability endeavors and promotes these green environmentally and socially friendly desti-
endeavors through the Slovenia Green nation.
brand. In the process of joining the GSST the
destinations and service providers sign the
Green Policy of Slovenian Tourism, which is
based on ten sustainability principles. The

112
CONCLUSION WHERE THE SOUL
The Slovenian Tourist Board defined the
FINDS ITS OWN
focus on green, sustainable tourism as the PLACE
right development opportunity for our coun-
try and its range of tourism products, while “I know that on memories it is sad to live,
placing the integral implementation of sus- that all the rhymes on May are worn out,
tainability at the very heart of its operations, but I’m drawn, as others who have ever lived there,
namely the development and promotion of to wander back there in that little place.“
Slovenian tourism. The appealing competi- (Mi2, Sweet as Honey)
tively positioned range of tourism products
based on the concept of sustainability and Introductory remarks at an occasion such as
the development of high-quality and inno- this are generally intended for a personal re-
vative tourism products with added value flection of the writer, his observation, mem-
represents the key element of our compet- ories, as well as emotions and sentiment.
itiveness, which makes our country and its But even if this would not be so, I confess
offer for tourists stand out from other tourist that I could not write about Obsotelje and
destinations. Stories of our local communi- Kozjansko in any other way. Because when
ties are more and more recognized through it comes to his home town, it is difficult for
Europe and worldwide. Local stories are be- a man to remain impartial. As a profession-
coming an important tourist product with al historian I could list some data from the
shift of tourist profile. Some solutions al- past. I could name local castles, describe
ready exist, but they have to be adapted to medieval, but later on pretty much lost eco-
each situation individually and always with nomic, judicial and administrative impor-
high involvement of local communities. tance of towns of Obsotelje and Kozjansko,

113
I could praise the discovery of medicinal will not be objective. For me, the local wines
water or I could smile at adventures of an have fuller flavour, and a chunk of brown
outlaw Guzaj, a tragic Robin Hood of Koz- bread is crumbled between your teeth in a
jansko. I could proudly point out how during different way. The song sounds more softly,
the Second World War a partisan division but as well more powerfully, and words, in
was getting through the blizzard of snow their lightness, get an additional meaning. It
and shots over the hills of Kozjansko and is said that every place has its own soul, but
how a liberated territory arose in the mid- to me it seems more, that the soul seeks and
dle of occupied Europe, where Slovenian finds its own place. In Obsotelje and Kozjan-
children could learn in their mother tongue sko this is (still) possible.
again. I could cry over the tough destiny of
the local people and their fight for a crust of Tone Kregar, PhD, Historian and Sociologist,
bread, or I could smile compassionately at Singer and Author (Band Mi2)
their superstitions, myths and legends, pre-
served for centuries in a folk tradition. Fair-
ies, dancing on clearings or washing clothes
in the stream, the menacing dragons above
Kozje and Olimje, heavy bangs of poachers,
the return of the deceased and their mid-
night masses, “Ajdovske” wives and girls
in Pilštanj, and of course the witches, who
were stirring the imagination during the
long nights without the electric lights all the
way from Donačka Mountain to Bohor. Elec-
tricity came to these remote villages and hill
farms very late, just before the earthquake
in Kozjansko in 1974, which forever altered
a part of the landscape. Nevertheless, the
landscape has still retained its originality.
Originality, whose core comes from the yes-
terday’s world, which can be seen in the pre-
served natural and cultural heritage, books
and the already mentioned folk tradition,
but more importantly, it is complement-
ed by that part of the image, which places
and people from Obsotelje and Kozjansko
live and offer today. To all who still live and
work here, as well as those, more and more
of them, who visit these places, either as
tourists or as random travellers, open to the
acceptance of everything good and beauti-
ful. And finally, to all of us who grew up here,
and although today we live elsewhere, we
still carry this piece of Styrian land and sky
with us. Not only in slightly nostalgic vers-
es, such as those above, but in real, almost
tangible joy which, perhaps unconsciously,
assumes us when returning home. There-
fore, my writing, as I said before, can not and

114
115
TRADITIONAL
VILLAGES AND HOUSES
IN SOUTHERN RURAL
SARDINIA

HISTORICAL FRAMEWORK 118


Sardinian art and architecture – tangible
heritage 119
Intangible heritage – language 119
The varieঞes 119
Phoneঞc characterisঞcs 120
The vocabulary 120
The dialects of Sardinian 120

TYPOLOGY OF TRADITIONAL
BUILDINGS IN SARDINIA 121

THE HOUSE OF THE CAMPIDANO 121


‘Campidanese’ house 121

SARDINIA TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURAL


ELEMENTS 121

– ITALY CASE STUDIES – Maintenance


1) Casa Zapata (Archaeological Museum)
in Barumini (Medio Campidano Province)
123

123
The village of Barumini 124
Descripঞon 124
Wri‚en by Best pracঞce 125
Carlo Salvatore III Laconi 2) Casa Saba (Ci.M.A Civic Museum) in
Marco Pisu Allai (Oristano Province) 125
(Associazione Paesaggi Connessi, Sestu, The village 125
Italy) Descripঞon 126
Best pracঞce 126
Photos:
Carlo Salvatore III Laconi
Marco Pisu
Nicola Castangia
Francesca Pontani

116 aurore 116


3) Casa Angioni (Domus Art) in Quartucciu (Cagliari Province) 127
The town 127
Descripঞon 128
Refurbishment and maintenance best pracঞce 129
Good pracঞce and criঞcism 129

CASE STUDIES – economic explotaঞon 129


1) Casa Ruda in Suelli (Cagliari Province) Definiঞon: Noble family manor 129
The village 130
Descripঞon 130
Best pracঞce of criঞcisms 131
2) Villa Puddu in Siddi (Cagliari Province) 131
The village 131
Descripঞon 132
Best pracঞce 132
3) Corte Crisঞna in Quartucciu, (Cagliari Province), a luxury B&B 132
Descripঞon 132
Best Pracঞce and criঞcism 133

REFERENCES 133

Coat of arms of Sardinia

117
ministrative and law system, compared with
HISTORICAL many other European countries (for legisla-
FRAMEWORK tion see “Carta of Eleonora d’Arborea).
During this period, architecture and arts
flourished, even thanks to strong relations
The first great culture of the western Med- with Pisa and Genova Republics and to the
iterranean area was born in the island: the work of artists from Lombardy and Tuscany.
Nuragic civilization (1.500 b.C). This civiliza- The peculiar artistic style is called the Sar-
tion is very important because it represents dinian Romanesque.
the meeting point between the megalithic The “Giudicati” era ended at the beginning
culture of the west and the urban culture of of the 15th century, because of the Aragon’s
the eastern Mediterranean. The megalithic conquest, after complex and sometimes bel-
constructions of the Nuragic art are among licose relations with the western Maritime

Nuraghic village of Su Nuraxi; Barumini – Tomb of the Giants of Coddu Vecchiu; Arzachena –
XVI–XIV century a.C. II millennio a.C.

The Nuragic civilization met the Phoenicians Republics (Pisa and Genova).
and Punic, then the island was conquered The Sardinian art and architectures had a
by Rome in 238 B.C. Rome gave to Sardinia slow decadence, as the Spanish empire was
urban, economic and social structures. slowly falling.
During the middle ages, after a Vandals in- In the XVIII century, the Island became part
vasion, Sardinian has belonged to Byzantine of the Savoy reign: The “Kingdom of Sardin-
government for many decades. The next ia”. The artistic styles of Piedmont character-
period has been characterised by four king- ised the Savoy domination until the end of
doms named “Giudicati” which were based the XIX century; however, at the beginning
on the former Byzantine administration of XX century a new generations of Sardini-
structure. an artists had an important imprinting to the
The kingdoms were called Càlari, Torres, Ar- Sardinian art, their influence is still strong
borea and Gallura; they had an advanced ad- today.

118
strong typical footprint linked to the Sardin-
Sardinian art and ian identity.
architecture – A complex history brought many different
influences in architecture and arts, but some
tangible heritage key elements shaped them. Here we focus
on rural buildings settlements and towns,
Art and architecture styles in Sardinia are shaped by agriculture, such as traditional
sometimes original and often imported; private houses.
even when they are imported they acquire a

Basilica of the Holy Trinity of Saccargia; Francesco Ciusa –


Pisan Romanesque style; Codrongianos – Mother of the killed; Mario Delitala –
12th century Cagliari Municipal Art The Expulsion of the Arendendore – 1926
Gallery – 1907

was just for literary compositions.


Intangible heritage – During the fall of the medieval kingdoms,
language Sardinian was no more an official language
and a progressive diversification in many di-
Sardinian language is one of the oldest Ro- alectical varieties began.
mance Languages; its own evolution started
since the III century A.D. and among such
kind of languages, it makes group on its The varieties
own, well distinguished from all the others.
The first written witnesses in Sardinian Vul- Sardinian has two main macro varieties: the
gar Latin dates back to the XI century, and southern Sardinian or Campidanese, and
are in documents of the chancelleries of the northern Sardinian or Logudorese / Nuo-
four medieval kingdoms (Giudicati). rese. Southern Sardinian had more evolu-
Sardinian is the first “Vulgar” used for jurid- tion/contaminations, while the northern
ical purposes: the royal Sardinian chancel- one shows a rather conservative phonetic.
leries wrote official documents by using it. The today’s language is characterized by a
But it was used in literature very late. In the great presence of Iberic words in the vocab-
rest of Europe, Latin was the only language ulary: from Catalan in southern Sardinian,
of the official documents; in other regions it while in the northern a large variety words,

119
taken from Castilian (Spanish), are common.
The languages spoken in the regions of Gal-
lura, in Sassari, Alghero and Carloforte are
not part of the Sardinian linguistic system.
They belong respectfully to the systems of
Corsican and Sassarian that come from me-
dieval Pisan, Catalan and Ligurian.

Phonetic
characteristics
Within the evolution from Latin to romance
languages, the vowel phonetic divided the
roman area in four groups: the system of
Common Roman, the Romanian system,
the Sicilian one and the Sardinian one. Lat-
in had ten vowels, five longs and five shorts,
the Sardinian has just five.
The phonetic characteristic that has mostly
interested the linguists in the ‘800, looking
for ‘Linguistic purity’, is the occlusive velar,
only typical of the northern Sardinian.
Many characteristics makes this language
the closest to Latin.

The vocabulary The dialects of Sardinian


1: Campidanian of the Caralitanus
Sardinian takes the majority of its words
2: Campidanian of the Sulcis
directly from Latin, which is the base for its
3: Common Campidanian
vocabulary. It has fewer influences coming
4: Central Campidanian
from Germanic languages, than the other
5: Campidanian of the Sarrabus
Romance languages.
6: Campidanian of the Ogliastra
The base is Latin while the lexical super
7: Campidanian of southern Barbagia
layer is constituted by words coming from
8: Arborean
other Romance languages, like Catalan and
9: Southern Nuoresian
Castilian (Spanish). Sardinian counts more
10: Central Nuoresian
than six thousand ‘Iberisms’ in its lexica.
11: Nuoresian of the Baronias
Moreover, the original lexicon mostly ex-
12: Southern Logudoresian
presses concrete things, not linked with
13: Central or common Logudoresian
abstract concepts. As it is described above,
14: Northern Logudoresian
Sardinian language, at the beginning, was
linked with the administrative subjects
(written) and, obviously, with everyday life NON Sardinian dialects or languages
and work. It becames an idiom for literature
very late. 15: Cathalan
In the island, a language expressing work 16: Sassarian
and everyday life is the language for agricul- 17: Gallurian (Corse)
ture and a ruralture ture and a rural world. 18: Tabarkan (Ligurian)

120
(plains, mountains, coasts) and their func-
TYPOLOGY OF TRADI- tions, the traditional shapes, layout and ma-
TIONAL BUILDINGS IN terials change.
Some examples of different typical architec-
SARDINIA tures are the ‘Campidanesi’ Houses (south
Sardinia), the Cumbessias or Muristenis, the
Architecture in Sardinia deserves a special Carthusian Churches with Loggia, the Pinne-
mention, because its originality and vari- tas (shepherds’ buildings).
eties surprises surprise. Depending on the
territory where the buildings are located

region);
THE HOUSE OF THE • Roofs are often made in “Cannicciato” a
CAMPIDANO technique that uses canes.
The houses have different sizes, but basical-
ly the layouts respects the same principle.
‘Campidanese’ house Here we have decided to describe a house
having all the architectonic peculiar char-
acteristics: ‘Su Furriadroxu’ in the town of
We would like to focus on the ‘Campidanese’
Pula. “Su Furriadroxu” is a typical agricultur-
house, which is one of the most interesting
al building in the Deep Southwest of Sardin-
kind of type of building structure of the is-
ia (area named ‘Sulcis’).
land. Such houses are the result of the rep-
We described it as a complete example, but
etitions of traditional patterns that occurred
we don’t studied it for the specific project
through the centuries; the pattern charac-
purpose, because it is in developed town,
terise a structure that is beautiful (aesthetic
which doesn’t have relevant problems.
value) and functional for agricultural works
and extremely useful for the management
of familiar agricultural firms. It is the typical
farmhouse of the villages of Campidano that
TRADITIONAL ARCHI-
is the largest plain of the island, located in TECTURAL ELEMENTS
the southwestern part.
The construction techniques are the follow- 1. Su Portali (The Arch gate) - The portal
ing: is the large access arch that is often the
• The mural bases are built with stones; only visible structure, looking at the
• Upon the base, the wall are built with house from the street.
làdiri, that are mud bricks and straw 2. Sa pratza de manixu (The working yard)
dried by the sun (mud bricks techniques It is the yard, which is often used for work
are one of the oldest and most widely activities.
techniques used in the Mediterranean 3. Su magasinu de su binu (The wine de-

121
posit) Literally the deposit of the wine can’t talk about a campidanese house.
where are barrels and the tools for the 8. S’aposentu de arriciri - The Aposentu de
wine making. arriciri was a room rarely used; there the
4. Sa funtana - It is the well. The house had owner hosted important guests. It was
to be self-sufficient, that’s why the well the most beautiful room and was often
has to be in the yard. decorated with paintings on the ceiling.
5. Sa pratza bona - It is the court in front of The floor is often tiled with decorations
the strictly residential rooms. The struc- that imitate Spanish majolica. The style
ture is similar to a cloister. of this room follows a typical Sardinia
6. Sa Sala - The dining room of the house, taste.
which is often divided into separate 9. Sa Stanza ‘e lettu (The bedroom) - The
rooms. bedroom was the room where the whole
7. Sa Lolla - It is the loggia that is connec- family slept, often in a single room. The
tion among the different rooms. It is the most wealthy families in multiple sepa-
most characteristic element of the ‘casa rate rooms.
campidanese’. Without the ‘lolla’ we

Example ‘Campidanese’ house


122
Definition: Spanish Noble family building
CASE STUDIES - Type: noble mansion with some ‘Casa cam-
Maintenance pidanese’ elements
Function: Administration / productions / ag-
riculture
1) Casa Zapata Site: Barumini, Marmilla historical region in
(Archaeological Museum) in Sardinia, south Sardinia District
Barumini (Medio Campidano Current function: Museum – End of XVI cen-
tury beginning of the XVII
Province) Culturale area: Nuragic Archaeology

123
The village of Barumini tion, they were built at the beginning of the
twentieth century and used as warehouses,
Barumini’s population is slowly decreasing; stables and farmhouse. In front of them, a
this is a threat for the local identity. The rural large open courtyard allowed easy move-
economy still survives in the area. ment of people, goods and animals.
The described building and actions are sure- In front of “Casa Zapata” there is a church
ly a help for the local development, even dedicated to the Immaculate Virgin Mary,
thanks to the important archeologic sites whose construction was probably com-
located in the town. However, even if such missioned by the same noble family from
sites have many visitors, the local adminis- Aragon.
tration and stakeholders have to carry on Currently, the Spanish residence is the lo-
with projects and activities, in order to face cation of a museum organized in three sec-
depopulation. tions: archaeological, historical and ethno-
Pupulation (ISTAT – Italian Statistics Insti- graphic ones.
tute - source): The archaeological part is in the oldest area
of the residence, a palace built according
to the classic model imposed by Philip II of
Spain. This is a beautiful seventeenth-cen-
tury building, ideal for the exhibition of the
finds discovered in the area of Su Nuraxi
(UNESCO SITE).
A large Nuraghe has been discovered under
the ‘Casa Zapata’. After the discovery, many
excavation campaigns have been carried
out and are still in progress.
The museum has been designed in order to
preserve the structure of the building and, at
the same time, to let watching the nuraghe
from above, through a system of glass path-
ways.
It is extraordinary to enter a 16th century
palace and then, unexpectedly, to be in front
Description of a very suggestive Nuraghe.
The historical section is in one of the most
‘Casa Zapata’ is a beautiful large mansion, recent construction, which was a warehous-
whose construction was ordered by the es or stables. Inside you can see some im-
noble Zapata family at the end of the six- portant documents belonging to the Zapata
teenth century. The family members arrived family and the community of Barumini. In
in Sardinia in 1323 with Alfonso of Aragon, the showcase the visitors may admire some
the conqueror of the island. In 1541, they original papers, previously considered dis-
bought the Barony of Las Plassas, Barumini appeared, but recently found by the Munici-
and Villanovafranca, becoming landowners pality of Barumini.
and then barons of these lands until the ab- In addition, in the panels and computers
olition of feudalism. next to the room it is possible to see some
Among the various elements of the man- other important documents belonging to
sion, there is a beautiful building with an el- the private collection of Andrea Lorenzo
egant garden, built between the end of the Ingarao Zapata from Las Plassas, who is
sixteenth and the beginning of the seven- the great-grandson of the Baron’s last wife,
teenth century; it was the lord’s house. Donna Concetta Ingarao Zapata. He lives in
Two other buildings have agricultural func- Rome and has given us all these documents

124
only in digital format.
The ethnographic section, also located in
one of the most recent part of the residence,
consists of a room that shows some of the
common tools used by the inhabitants of the
Barumini region (Marmilla) in the last centu-
ry and of the Regional Museum of Launed-
das: a place dedicated to the oldest musical
Sardinian instrument. The musical area was
developed thanks to the support of the most
famous player of such instrument: the Maes-
tro Luigi Lai.

Best practice
The building is a best practice about archi-
tecture and maintenance: it is upon an im-
portant archaeologic Nuragic site and It is
extraordinary to enter a well preserved 16th
century palace and then, unexpectedly, to
walk upon a very suggestive Nuraghe. The
Barumini site and meseum are increasing
the number of their visitors, thanks to a cul-
tural tourism experience involving not just a
very important archaeologic site (Su Nuraxi
UNESCO), discovered decades ago, but also
thanks to little museum that is something
especial and unique.

2) Casa Saba (Ci.M.A Civic


Museum) in Allai (Oristano
Province)
Definition: A set of dwellings and loggias
around a court.
Typology: Traditional houses around a large
court
Function: Traditional farmhouses residen- it is facing a severe depopulation problem.
tial / production - agriculture. The described museum and other projects
Location: Allai, Historical Sardinian Region are attempts aimed at facing the disappear-
of Barigadu, Oristano district. ance of the settlement.
Current use: Museum. The actions carried out are surely very inter-
Cultural area: Ethnographic – Archaeologic. esting, however cultural and economic con-
sistency of the project should be assured, in
The village order to overcome the decline.
The population’s decline is emphasised in
Allai is a little village in the centre-west of the figure below (source ISTAT).
Sardinia, characterised by a rural economy;

125
called Julia Uselis.
About the roads structures, the Roman
Bridge called Ponti’ Ecciu (old bridge in Sar-
dinian laguage), upon the Rio Massari (local
river) is a magnificent example, which was
renovated during the Middle Ages and re-
structured several times in the modern age.
The loggias of the museum host an ethno-
graphic section concering three specific mo-
ments: the pressing of lentisk berries, the
cultivation of wheat, milling and baking, and
finally the loggia that hosts the oxen wagon
and transports.
In the deep south of Sardinia, the typical
building materials are mud bricks, while in
this region people have used stone bricks,
like local trachyte, for centuries.

Description Best practice


The building are the location of the Ci. M. A The museum is not an isolated thing, but
Public Allai Museum, which can be consid- something involved within a wider pro-
ered the centre of the cultural life of Allai. gramme aiming at promoting local cultural
The monumental complex, better known as and economic development, which are ways
“Casa Saba”, is a collection of houses and of facing the depopulation of rural regions in
loggias around a large elliptical courtyard, Sardinia.
some buildings are private houses. This is a The projects of the programme are about
traditional set of buildings that can belong (i) the preservation of traditional buildings,
to the concept of ‘urban musealisation’, that (ii) the construction of buildings and the
is an interesting way of promoting cultural creation of artworks expressing the con-
experiences even in small rural villages. tamination between traditional identity and
Inside, the museum preserves precious ar- the current global dimension (iii), cultural
chaeological finds from the territory, which events.
have not been showed, since the museum Examples of contamination are contempo-
was not built. The exhibited things are from rary art sculptures located near the river and
prehistoric times to the modern age; they a house on the tree (the first Sardinia house
are stone and ceramic artefacts that under- in the tree).
line, each for its own peculiarities, their cul- Events are (i) EcoRurality, carried out by Paes-
tural periods and contexts. In particular, in aggi Connessi, high level training events on
a room dedicated to it, there is a splendid the landscape as a cultural identity element
example of Mediterranean Mother Goddess, and the sustainable contamination between
modelled on a megalithic trachyte; these lit- tradition and contemporaneity and (ii) free
tle statues start the prehistoric statuary phe- climbing on the stonewalls of traditional
nomenon in this geographical area. houses (sport and culture together).
There are also finds belonging to Roman
times, thanks to the ancient road network
involving Allai and starting from Forum Tra-
iani (Important Roman city close to Fordon-
gianus) and thanks to the Roman colony

126
Land Art EcoRurality – Allai – Roman bridge
(Info@ssil by L. C. S. III.) Tree house by Abitalbero

3) Casa Angioni (Domus The town


Art) in Quartucciu (Cagliari
Quartucciu is growing in population and it is
Province) probably one of the richest town in Sardinia,
even thanks to the proximity to the capital
Definition: ‘Casa Campidanese’ city with its roads, transports, airport and
Typology: traditional house in the south of port. Industrial development replaced an
Sardinia economy based on agriculture.
Function: traditional farmhouses residen- It doesn’t mean that everything is going ok:
tial/production - agriculture the place almost lost a strong rural iden-
Location: Quartucciu, a town within the tity and now it is in the Cagliari metropoli-
metropolitan area of Cagliari tan area. The disappearance of any cultur-
Current use: hosting cultural events al identity because of the transformation
Cultural area: Ethnographic – Music – thea- towards a simple peripheral area of a large
tre city might be considered a problem, even
because the area is full of historical and ar-
chaeological sites like noble family ancient

127
buildings, a monumental Nuragic tomb and towns. This has generated important social
a Punic Necropolis. and economic changes in Quartucciu’s so-
Casa Angioni is a first public attempt of ciety, economy and traditional identity: an
supporting local cultural life; but it is not agricultural village has become a part of a
enough, many other actions should carried large city and a sort of residential area with-
out and consistency should be assured. in a city.
Later we will talk about an economic ex- ‘Case Campidanesi’ like Casa Angioni are
ploitation of private historical buildings; it characterised by
is, among other small hospitality structures, • an arch over a wood made front portal;
a successful example of business; but it ex- • a central courtyard (sometimes two);
ploits a historical and traditional site, with- • a loggia called ‘Sa Lolla’ and
out connecting it with the local cultural life. • a warehouse.
Population (ISTAT source): The house may be divided into two areas: a
working area and residential one.
Behind the front portal, there is a courtyard;
a warehouse for materials, crops, food, wine
and olive oil is at the side of the courtyard,
while a loggia is the first part of residential
area.
The courtyard was useful to park carts car-
rying food, crop and materials that could be
unloaded, brought and stored in the ware-
house located at one side of the perimetral
walls of the mansion.
The loggia is a decorative part and a func-
tional one (it connects the rooms); its aspect
indicates the location of the residential side.
The courtyard, the warehouse and the large
portal allowing carts entrances shows the
function of the house that is a home and
work place in a rural society.
Description Such typical elements are in DomusArt,
where is even possible to see a room used
Casa Angioni – Domus Art is a typical ‘Casa as kitchen. The kitchen is close to the log-
Campidanese’, a kind of house that charac- gia, and belongs to the residential sector;
terises the South Sardinia plain called Cam- however, it even had a function related to
pidano. production: there the women prepared brad
We selected this building because it is a pub- and food in very early mornings, in order to
lic example, and because it is an attempt of feed employees working for the house own-
rediscovering the local identity. er.
The house is located in Quartucciu, a town In the deep south of Sardinia, the Case Cam-
in the deep south of Sardinia; that was a pidanesi (plural) are built by using mud
country village and its culture, society and bricks walls called ‘laddiri’ (perimetral and
economy were deeply related to agriculture. partition walls) covered by painted plasters;
In the 60s 70s, Cagliari – the largest city of the just the most important structural elements
island – had developed an urban continuity have some stone briks, such as the bases of
with the towns around, such as: Quartu, Se- the walls, arches elements, keystones, cor-
largius and Quartucciu itself. Currently the nerstones. Going norther in the island walls
Cagliari’s metropolitan area includes these are build using stone bricks.

128
Refurbishment and CASE STUDIES –
maintenance best practice
economic explotation
Casa Angioni is a public building located in
the ancient centre of the town, close to the 1) Casa Ruda in Suelli
biggest church. Two important refurbish- (Cagliari Province)
ment works has been carried out through
the years. The last one in 2017. Since may
Definition: Noble family
2017 DomusArt is available. manor
The colour of the perimetral walls is a kind
of pink, which is a typical colour in such kind Tipology: ‘Casa Campidanese padronale’
of traditional buildings, it respects the tra- Function: residential – local administration
dition, but the roof construction technique – productions – agriculture
does not: the tradition roof materials were Location: village of Suelli, in the historical
built with canes: ‘Canniciato’ technique, Sardinian region named Trexenta (south
while now the roof is built with wood. The Sardinia district)
Municipality chose the wood, as well as al- Current use: place for weddings and private
most every traditional house owners, be- ceremonies and historical archive
cause of the resistance of ‘Canniciato’. Cultural area: local historical archive and
The quality of the maintenance is good; the ethnographic exposition
local government carries out frequent in-
terventions, in order to keep the building in
very good condition. .

Good practice and criticism


Refurbishment and maintenance may be
considered good practice, implemented by
the municipality: Casa Angioni revitalised
the cultural activities, often linked to events
on local traditions. It is suitable for many
type of events and shows, it is a traditional
building, it has stimulated the area improve-
ment: its street is the nicest in the area.
It is very important for the town’s identity,
which might be lost because of the inclusion
within the area of a large city. However, its
potentials are not still fully exploited: there
are not a communication strategy and ac-
tions, like social media, social network and
web pages, boosting the possibility to rent
the place for cultural activities: many cul-
tural and civil society stakeholders don’t
know it. Moreover, the interested organisa-
tion may rent the house only after a not easy
navigation in the institutional unicipality’s
web page.

129
The Village appears a small and pleasant hilly village
had been an episcopal seat for centuries:
The village of Suelli still have a rural econ- the cathedral and sanctuary dedicated to
omy and culture, it’s population is not con- St. George, bishop of Suelli (1000 A.D.), show
siderably decreasing; therefore, it has few this importance, as well as the remarkable
depopulation problems; however, it could sixteenth-century retable inside the church,
depend on the proximity to the capital not painted Pietro and Michele Cavaro.
just on the economic and cultural life. This The name of the house, ‘Casa Ruda’ is linked
makes the exploitation of the cultural herit- with Ruda family that has noble Catalan or-
age important; in order to keep alive tradi- igin. The Family came to Sardinia at the end
tions, without losing important part of the of 1400 and settled in the feud of Samatzai
local identity. and later in Donori and Cagliari. Later, It ex-
Suelli’s polulation ((Source ISTAT – National tended its properties in the towns of Suelli,
Statistics Italian Institute): Soleminis, Guasila, Ortacesus Villacidro, Vil-
lasor, Pauli Arbarei, Lunamatrona, Oristano,
Cabras.
At the end of 1800 the noble Cavaliere Vit-
torio Tordelli, native of Spoleto in Umbria,
joined the noble Chiara Ruda in marriage. In
the noble Tordelli family there were admin-
istrators in the Papal State, great collectors
of art.
In the nineteenth century, the Tordellis be-
came interested in hospitality business:
they built hotels first in Rome and then the
prestigious Grand Hotel Tordelli in Spoleto.
Vittorio and Giorgio Tordelli Ruda are keep-
ing the ancient traditions of the family and
giving impetus to the management of their
properties.
Their manor is very large; it is divided into
welcoming courtyards and gardens: from
the patrician residence, dating back to the
Description end of the 18th century, to the numerous de-
pendencies. On the walls, there are frescoes,
In Suelli, a village in the center of Campidano paintings and furnishings.
there is Casa Ruda; it is a house-museum The halls, corridors and rooms were care-
with interesting documents of agricultural fully restored; now they host congresses,
and pastoral life and culture of the region. awards ceremony, cultural meetings and
Casa Ruda is an ancient manor; the owners weddings parties.
restored and arranged it, in order to allow An historical archive, visited by schools, con-
the use as a home, a welcoming meeting tains important documents while in sever-
place, a place for ceremonies and a muse- al corridors and room there are traditional
um. The part for ceremonies includes a res- tools; such spaces recreate the ancient rural
taurant and large halls. life of the region: Trexenta.
The first building of the Rudas’ House dates The combination among an archive and
back to the beginning of 1600; it is located ethnographic museum and a place for large
42 km from Cagliari and it is easily accessible ceremonies may create a fascinating experi-
by public roads 131 and 128, or by a touristic ence.
railway called the Green Train. What today

130
Best practice of criticisms
The manor house is wonderfully restored,
while artistic and ethnographic objects are
well preserved end showed.
The place is very large and beautiful, but,
for its historical relevance, its size, its beauty
and the importance of the owning family, it
should be more at the centre of the cultural
life of the village; It is not enough linked with
the local cultural development. It should be
a point of reference, even helping the rela-
tionships with public and private stakehold-
ers.
The place offers many things to the visitors:
beauty, food, tradition and history; however,
its potential, in business terms, are not well
exploited. The quality of the restoration and
maintenance is not enough to assure the
best economic performance: diversification
of the supply and a better communication
should be carried out.

2) Villa Puddu in Siddi


(Cagliari Province)
Definizione: Villa/palace
Tipology: Italian Art Nuveau (liberty) villa
with ‘Casa Campidanese’ elements.
Function: Residential
Location: Siddi, historical region named
Marmilla, (south Sardinia district)
Current use: Gourmet restaurant – B&B –
high quality cuisine school The village
Built at beginning of the XX century
Cultural area: Traditional and fusion food Siddi is a village in the centre-south of Sar-
culture dinia characterised by a rural economy; it
is facing a quite considerable depopulation
problem.
The described activity is a nice private at-
tempt, aimed at facing depopulation in the
settlement. It is surely very interesting be-
cause it is based on (i) economic exploita-
tion and diversification, (ii) contamination
between local and global dimensions and
(iii) links between local culture and econom-
ic development.
However, cultural and economic consisten-
cy should be assured, in order to overcome

131
the decline; It should be linked with more him, named ‘Accademia di Cucina e Svilup-
private and public actions. po del Territorio’.
The population’s decline is emphasised in Roberto Petza is conservative and progres-
the figure below. sive; he preserves with obstinacy and cour-
age a heritage made up of tastes and tech-
niques, knowledge and ancient gestures. He
is progressive because he has understood
that the past is the only way to conquer the
future. He updates the Sardinian tradition
with new executive practices, new combi-
nations, new aesthetics and a new idea of
catering. Its restaurant is the symbol of this
multiple vocation.

Best practice
The building, wonderfully restored, is im-
portant for the history of the area (The his-
torical region of Marmilla; this importance
has leaded the owner towards an inclusive
approach: he organises events involving the
social, economic and cultural local life.
Description Moreover, these events, as well as its busi-
ness, are deeply linked with the local iden-
Casa Puddu is among the green hills of tity, refreshed by the contamination with
Marmilla (Sardinian region); it is a historic international high quality food experiences.
residence built in Art Nouveau style at the These help the stakeholder involvement.
beginning of the 20th century by Filippo Under a narrow business perspective, the
Puddu, whose brother was the founder of enterprise differentiates its offer: high-level
the Puddu’s pasta factory that has been, un- international training on food and beverage,
til 1996, one of the largest industrial pasta hospitality, interesting events.
factories in the island.
It is the only example of palace in the vil- 3) Corte Cristina in
lage of Siddi and is composed of a main “C”
building built on two floors, the main part of
Quartucciu, (Cagliari
the house. In the frontal façade, you can see Province), a luxury B&B
a flat frame, a final cornice and a large cen-
tral terrace with balustrade. Definition: Villa
The main building is flanked, on the left side, Tipology: ‘Casa Campidanese’
by the rustic part of the house, where the for- Functione: Residencial - agriculture
mer servitude rooms are located. This part Location: Cagliari Metropolitan area
of the building, lower than the other and Current use: luxury B&B and events organ-
without decorations, is definitely closer to isation
what was once considered the construction XVIII century
typology of the place (casa campidanese). Cultural area: Italian and Sardinian History
Today Casa Puddu is a gourmet restaurant
called ‘S’ apposentu’; the owner and chef is Description
Roberto Petza. In the building there is also
a high level school for cookers managed by Corte Cristina is an 18th century residence,

132
with ancient furnishings, and luxurious based on an ancient and innovative con-
rooms. cept: ancient because it respects the spirit of
The villa was the summer residence of the place, an eighteenth-century patrician
Queen Maria Cristina of Savoy and the Savoy house, rich in stories and secrets, innovative
court; it is in Quartucciu, within the district because it locates the same sensations in
of Cagliari. the twenty-first century.
Now, the building is a successful luxury B&B, The building is a best practice of architectur-
which is contributing, with other little hos- al restoration and economic exploitation, as
pitality structures, to the touristic develop- it has a successful occupancy rate, promo-
ment of a town that is losing its agricultural tion and great reviews.
identity but needs to rebuild it, in order to However, even if the building has an histor-
face the involvement, as a residential area, ical significance, it is not integrated into the
within a metropolitan area. town’s cultural life. This can create problems
The original furnishings of the eighteenth with some stakeholders and does not help
and nineteenth century brought back to the the cultural identity of a place that is losing
ancient splendour, contribute to create a it.
colourful and relaxed atmosphere, especial-
ly in common areas where high standards
applied to all rooms and suites are able to REFERENCES
ensure the most exclusive comfort.
The suites contain the charm of the ancient Artistic, Architectural,
times typical hospitality, combined with the
modernity of all the offered comforts: wood- Historical, Linguistic and on
en beams and original furniture are com- the Campidanese House
bined with the ritual of a modern bathroom,
where guests are pampered by Jacuzzi tubs • Sardegna Cultura
and emotional showers. • Su Furriadroxu
Immersed in the city centre, Corte Cristi- • Casa Angioni and Corte Cristina -
na offers moments of pure relaxation to its Quartucciu
guests that may live an experience where • Comune di Allai – CIMA- Civico Museo
the royal family Vittorio Emanuele I of Savoy • Paesaggi Connessi - Ecorurality 2009/11
spent its holydays. • Casa Zapata Museum
• S’Apposentu - Casa Puddu - Siddi
Best Practice and criticism • Casa Ruda - Suelli

Corte Cristina offers a timeless welcome,

133
TRADITIONAL
SETTLEMENTS,
CULTURAL HERITAGE
AND SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT

INTRODUCTION 136

ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF


“PETROSINO” 136

AGRICULTURE AND VITICULTURE


AS BASIS OF THE CITIZEN ECONOMY 136
The birth of viঞculture and marsala wine 136

HISTORICAL ARCHITECTURES 138


Fiuredde 138
Towers 138

PETROSINO – Church: Milazzo Chapel


The bagli
139
139

ITALY
Baglio woodhouse 140
Baglio Vecchio Marchese and
sustainable reuse 141
Baglioম 141
Baglio Don Federico 142
Baglio Basile and sustainable reuse 142
Baglio Spano’ and sustainable reuse 143

CONCLUSIONS 143
Wri‚en by
Monica Calabrò REFERENCES 144
(Comune di Petrosino, Petrosino, Italy)

134 aurore 134


Coat of arms of Petrosino

135
mid-seventeenth century, were established
INTRODUCTION by farmers who formed housing units called
“chianura” and by fishermen who settled on
Petrosino is one of 24 municipalities in the the coast forming Biscione village. The res-
Province of Trapani, on the extreme west idential area developed from the 19th cen-
side of Sicily (Italy). It is located along 10 km tury along the road where the English mer-
of coast between Marsala and Mazara del Val- chant John Woodhouse built his “baglio”
lo: an area where it is possible to harmonize (rural fortified structure) whose portal later
the rural and maritime traditions with the became the coat of arms and the symbol of
many sport activities related to the sea (kite- the town.
surfing, windsurfing, snorkeling, diving, etc.)
and the peace of the fishermen’s village. The
town obtained its autonomy in 1980, when ORIGIN OF THE NAME
Petrosino, town hamlet under the adminis-
trative rule of Marsala, separated from Mar- OF “PETROSINO”
sala thus becoming the youngest town with
its own local government in the province of The name of the town is linked to histo-
Trapani. The territory of Petrosino is placed ry and legend at the same time. According
opposite Africa, but the temperature rarely to tradition, the name derives from Latin
rise at high levels, thanks to sea-wild which words sinus (gulf) and Petri (Peter) that is
blows directly and steadly. For its climatic Gulf of Peter, alluding to the landing of Saint
characteristics Petrosino can be considered Peter at Biscione. However, there is not any
privileged for its agricultural and tourism historical document to validate this theory.
development, in particularly for viticulture. Another theory, more popular than the first
His countryside offers extensive cultivated one, is linked with its distinctive toponym
fields, especially vineyards, with various lo- that seems to come from the Greek word
cal productions of fruit and vegetables. “Petrosilion” then changed in “Piddusino”
Petrosino has more vineyards than each by local dialect. In ancient times, in this un-
other city in Italy and it significantly contrib- inhabited area grew in abundance a type
utes to the production of first-class wines of aromatic herb known as parsley, due to
thanks to the connection between vineyards this vegetative characteristic the place was
and sea that makes unique the experience called Petrosino (Vinci 1995).
of tasting local products. Petrosino has the
highest production of grapes for inhabitant
and it significantly contributes to the Marsa-
AGRICULTURE AND
la wine production. The landscape is charac-
terized by an immense number of catarratto
VITICULTURE AS
and grillo vineyards. A BASIS OF THE
This is an area with a deep rural identity that
it is possible discover visiting the typical CITIZEN ECONOMY
“bagli”, enjoying the contemplation of the
unspoilt area of “margi” or tasting the local
organic products.
The birth of viticulture
Petrosino is not only characterised by ag- and maesala wine
ricultural landscape and wine making vo-
cation, but also by its sandy coastlines Its economy is essentially based on agricul-
(Biscione beach is the most famous) which ture with the production of greenhouse veg-
in summer use to become popular holiday etables, table grapes and must. It turns out
destinations. to be the most common wine-growing town
The first settlements, dating back to the in Italy, with the largest grape production

136
per inhabitant. It contributes significantly to was keen to taste the wine that so fortified
the production of the well-known Marsala this sailors’ spirits. The wine was since then
wine. included in the royal cellars and, as a conse-
The landscape of Petrosino is characterized quence, in many other cellars as well. In Eng-
by an immense number of catarratto and land, due to the royal interest and Admiral
grillo vineyards, typical for the production of Nelson, the wine had become a fine wine,
famous Marsala wine. The story of Marsala “worthy of any gentleman’s table”, as con-
wine was born from the intuition of the Eng- temporary documents stated. With Marsala
lish merchant John Woodhouse (Neu, 1957). went the ancient legend about wine having
The legend tells that in 1773 John Wood- originated in Sicily as the gift of the Gods.
house with his ship Elizabeth was bound for There is a very interesting word which ex-
Mazara del Vallo to pick up a cargo of sodium plains a great deal about Marsala. It is the
carbonate (for industrial purposes). Due to a Latin word “perpetuum”, in English perpet-
storm, it lands in the port of Marsala. Having ual. Wine produced in the Marsala region
to wait for the storm die down, he decided to is aged in gigantic barrels. After a certain
stop at a tavern in the city. Here Woodhouse time part of the aged wine is removed and
taste a local fortified wine, which reminds replaced with a younger wine of exactly the
him another very famous drink, the Port. same kind (similar to the Spanish Solera
Sure about the success that Marsala could method). Hence perpetual: the barrels are
have in England, he changed idea and load- never emptied (The history of Marsala).
ed the brig with the local wine, approximate- But the origins of viticulture in this area of
ly fifty barrels for a total of 420 liters. Sicily are much older (Nesto and Di Savino,
During the voyage back to Liverpool, he add- 2013). According to Greek legend, however,
ed small quantities of alcohol to preserve it was Dionysus who brought the vine to Sic-
the wine. This was the regular practice with ily. While embarking on an arduous journey
Port and Xéres (Sherry). The wine arrived across the seas, the god of wine brought
safe and sound, and John sold it at a huge with him a vine and carefully looked after it
profit. “Marsala wine” had been discovered along the way. When he finally got to Sicily
by Britain. he planted the first vineyard at Naxos. But
The British greatly appreciated the quality of the Western part of Sicily was covered in
this wine, so Woodhouse realized that oth- grapevines long before the Greeks got there,
ers would soon begin importing “his” wine. and the Greeks were not the first to make
So, on his next trip, he sent his men out to wine in Sicily. In fact, archeologists have
buy up all grapes from the best vineyards of found evidence that the island’s inhabitants
Petrosino territory. were drinking wine as far as the 17th cen-
The next step was to create a vinery to pro- tury B.C. however, when the Greeks arrived
duce the precious wine. He built a farm- in the eighth century B.C. they introduced
house like a fortress for himself, his men and viniculture techniques, pruning styles and a
local farmers, on the coastline of Petrosino new take on variety selection. The result was
where he could survey the ocean from pi- better quality and larger quantities of wine.
rates and warships. The British Royal Navy When the Romans took control of Sicily, they
eventually became a big client. Admiral Lord spread wine from the region around the em-
Nelson used Marsala as the official wine ra- pire. It did not take long for the wines to gain
tion for his men. A manuscript exists, dat- recognition in the ancient world. Wine was
ed 19 March 1800, carrying the signature of essential for celebrating mass, and religious
Woodhouse and the Duke of Bronte - Hor- leaders became experts in viniculture. From
atio Nelson’s Sicilian title - stipulating the A.D. 872 to 1061, wine production in Sicily
supply of 500 barrels, each with a capacity declined, but developed directly following
of 500 litres for the fleet stationed in Malta. that period the export activity from the is-
After Nelson’s victories Buckingham Palace land. This, in turn, helped stabilize the econ-

137
omy. The next important step in the history
of Sicilian wine would come many years lat-
er, when John Woodhouse would help bring
Marsala to the world. Riding on the success
of Marsala, Sicilians made huge develop-
ments in wine production, and wine soon
became an important pillar of the island’s
economic structure. During the years to fol-
low, some of Sicily’s most famous wineries
were founded.
In 1881, Phylloxera (an insect of the Phyllox-
eridae family) invaded Sicily and entire vine-
yards were destroyed (Grandori, 1914). This
harmful vine insect, native to North America,
appeared in Europe in the second half of the
nineteenth century, and is now widespread
in all the wine-growing countries of the
world. This insect causes serious damage to
the roots and the consequent death of the
attacked plant.
In the same decade, exports to France
stopped. Wine production on the island
didn’t recover for more than half a century. the main crossroads or at the beginning of
Meanwhile the market had changed com- a narrow street. The style changes from one
pletely, and Sicilian winemakers had to to another, they are usually painted in light
adapt. Fortunately, their ability to adjust, colours and the sacred image is represent-
as well as a new attention to quality, helped ed mostly with reproductions or paintings,
wine producers in Sicily regains their place sometimes with plaster or stone sculptures.
as some of the best in the world. Sacred aediculae are a spontaneous expres-
Wine production is a millenary tradition that sion of popular religiosity which is shown
has preserved until today a rich heritage of during the celebration of the Saint to whom
vines, still very much appreciated today, and is dedicated and in other religious events.
Petrosino has more vineyards than any oth-
er city in Italy (Trapani, 2011; Caruso, 1997;
Zanfi A. and Mencarelli S. , 2013). Towers
Looking back in time, when the area of Pet-
HISTORICAL rosino was still uninhabited, the first build-
ings that were built were military sighting
ARCHITECTURES towers to organize defence in case of pirate
incursion. Then the decline of maritime and
trade activities facilitated the development
Fiuredde of agriculture from which comes the need
to fortify the area with several watchtowers
Going through the streets of Petrosino is (Bellanca, 1987). One of this is the Sibiliana
easy to find small shrines (sanctuaries), lo- Tower, built in the 1500. Its purpose was to
cally known as “fiuredde” (sacred aedicu- catch sight of pirates and, at the same time,
lae). The local sacred aediculae are architec- to signal the passage of tuna which were
tural elements dedicated to sacred figures then conducted to the nearby tuna-fishing
(Barbera 1989). They are usually located in net. It is twelve meters high with very thick

138
tuff walls and the shape is quadrangular. ritory is Milazzo Chapel. Located in district
The name Sibiliana or Scibiliana maybe re- “contrada Torreggiano”, it was built in XVIII
fers to the Sybil, a girl who was kidnapped century as the chapel of Milazzo Family. The
by pirates and held captive here. little church has a neoclassic facade and the
Another tower present in the territory of Pet- interior has a nave where is placed a poly-
rosino is Galvaga Tower. This majestic and chrome plaster statue of Christ.
fascinating structure was built in 1582 to
dominate the countryside and to catch sight
of some bandits or criminals. Each tower
had a well and a waterhole and it was a small
fortress where farmers and shepherds could
take refuge. Realized in tuff, it is massive,
squared and quadrangular. It has two floors
with three rooms on each floor. Unique ele-
ment of the tower is its crenellation on the
top that makes the structure austere.

Church: Milazzo
Chapel
The oldest church that was built in the ter-

The bagli
The history of Petrosino is closely related to
the construction and evolution of the “bag-
li”. The fortified structures of the bagli are
rural architectural buildings which are to be
found all over the countryside and which
characterise the territory (Saeli , 2011). The
etymology of word “baglio” appears uncer-
tain, however the most valid theories lead
back to the Latin “ballium” (courtyard sur-
rounded by buildings or walls) and to word
“balarm” (fortress).
These structures are the witness of the im-
portant role that viticulture had at the be-
ginning of 1800. Bagli were built to facilitate
the local farmers (Petrosino was among the
major centres of wine production) which
had not sufficient resources to carry grapes
and wine to Marsala.
They are built by landowners for agricultural
activities in a dominating position in order

139
to control the surrounding land and the var-
ious phases of the agricultural work. They
have, as a characteristic element, a central
courtyard around which communal life is
lead, a manor house and several warehous-
es (Giacomarra 1997). Other characteristic
element was specific spaces were designed
for grape pressing (in local dialect palmen-
tu) or olives pressing (in local dialect trappi-
tu). The highest part of the structure was the
house of the landowner who stayed there
seasonally. The development of viniculture
and winemaking fostered the reproduction
of baglio structure especially near the coast.
Of this structures that were the cornerstone
of the agricultural activity (the “Bagli”) much
was lost.

Baglio woodhouse
It is the first Baglio used as winery, a luxu-
rious neoclassical villa with a strong artis-
tic value, built in 1813 by John Woodhouse
(the English merchant who discovered the
wine “Marsala” and exported it all over the als and has favored its use, in fact the ma-
world). A testimony of the ancient splendor sonry (stonework) of the various buildings
of this Baglio now remain, in addition to the is usually composed of stones and pieces of
entrance portal, only a few elements original tuff bound together by lime and sand, which
and frescoes depicting vine leaves, in the up- even today the corrosive action due to at-
per floor. mospheric agents resist. The roof is made of
This baglio is locally known as “bagghiu brick tiles resting on wooden planks (Vinci,
gnisi” (English baglio), where the legendary 1995).
Marsala Soleras 1815 and Marsala Waterloo Almost entirely renovated in the interior fin-
1815 were produced (source: Trapaniclicka- ishes of the ground floor while completely
ndgo.it). Unfortunately the fascinating struc- intact on the upper floor, where they were
ture now is not in good conditions. found under the various layers of lime and
In the courtyard there is still a well and a colors of the walls frescoes with vines of
washtub made in tuff. The access portal is green and yellowed vines. Behind the Baglio
equipped with a spy and a slit that served as you can still see what remains of the house
a defensive work. The arch is a sixth lower of the keeper of the fields.
and inside, above the arch, is the “walkway”. The portal of the baglio (Picture 4) has been
The whole thing was closed by a wooden used as an emblem of the Municipality of
door and represented the only solution of Petrosino, as a tribute to the ancient and
continuity between the outside and the prestigious culture and civilization of the
inside. All other openings have been prac- farming world.
ticed in recent times. The flooring of the
residential building is in hexagonal shaped
clay bricks. The same geological nature of
the land has provided the building materi-

140
the company has drawn inspiration from the
Baglio Vecchio centuries-old Sicilian ceramic culture to pro-
Marchese and pose itself to the market with precious prod-
ucts, strictly artisan, but able to satisfy cur-
sustainable reuse rent needs. Ceramics of “Vecchio Marchese”
respect the artistic taste of centuries of
Another Baglio is “Baglio Vecchio Marchese”, traditions; shapes, colors, and techniques
an ancient beam built in 1700. It was the unique all over the world. The production
summer residence of the Marquis D’Anna still includes tiles with Sicilian decorations
from Marsala. Abandoned for a long time, since ‘500 to the present day and still dish-
nowadays it retains a little part of the orig- es, mugs, kitchen accessories, flasks, lamps,
inal structure where there was the area for chandeliers and furnishings for verandas
the farmer activities. A magnificent court- and interiors. Reuse of this Baglio allows
yard completed the typical structure of the perpetuating historical and popular tradi-
local beam. Unique elements of this baglio tions respecting environment.
are the three sighting towers. This Baglio
is an example of reconversion of ancient
beams in a modern way. Indeed the baglio Bagliotti
was restored and it is now used as a restau-
rant. After the construction of the Baglio Wood-
One of the wings of this Baglio is reserved for house and other beams, the first rural hous-
cultural and artistic events, always aimed at es with annexed warehouses began to rise.
dissemination and knowledge of the local The warehouses were equipped with the
craft culture, and home to a professional necessary for pressing grapes and storing
school for the training of potters and deco- the must (liquid obtained from pressing the
rators. Inside the company many different grapes).
architects and sector specialists collaborate, These were called “bagliotti” (little beams)
which, with great artistic ability, make each in imitation of the great feudal beams con-
piece unique in its kind, succeed inventing structed by the wealthiest land workers.
shapes and decorations of high expressive Among these the most important and inter-
value. Since the beginning of the activity, esting are Baglio Basile, Baglio Don Federico,

141
and Baglio Spanò of the nineteenth century. rimeter wall of the left side is intact and well
preserved. In the quadrangular
courtyard, all the rooms, warehouses and
Baglio Don Federico houses overlook. The presence of a well,
now covered with tuffs, characterizes the
Baglio Don Federico was built by Don Fed- internal quadrangular court. The warehous-
erico Spanò in 1865 and it stands in the es along the South side also collapsed and
Ramisella district, in an area entirely planted constituted the old part of the services. A
with vines. During the Arab period the Baglio cornice at the top, still evident on the west
was part of Casale Bizir and later, under Nor- side and partly on the south side, followed
man domination, it was granted to the bish- the perimeter walls of the baglio. Baglio Don
opric of Mazara. In 1862 it was assigned to Federico should be recovered and reinsert-
the public auction of Don Federico Spanò. It ed in the historical memory of Petrosino
has an almost quadrangular plan with a sin- as an indelible mark of its past that should
gle and monumental entrance with a round not be forgotten, it also represents a natural
arch in tufa stone blocks. The entrance con- background to the main street, Via Baglio.
sists of a quadrangular environment with a
barrel vault now completely collapsed. On
the west side, to the right of the entrance, Baglio Basile and
the perimeter wall was destroyed. The pe- sustainable reuse
Baglio Basile is an ancient noble residence
built in 1862. The land where it arise was
bishopric and in 1862, after Italian unifica-
tion and Corleo law of that year (which ratify
abolition of the ecclesistical feuds) some lots
of this land were bought by notary Gaetano
Basile who built here baglio and put lands
under cultivation.
It presents all the structural characteristics
of the bagli that, since the seventeenth cen-
tury, arose in countryside of Marsala, but it
presents neoclassical elements typical of
period in which it arose.
The towers are made with tuff blocks, that
recall those typical of the wineries, along the
coast of Marsala. The materials in which the
structure was built are typical of the place:
tuff bricks, the so-called Sicilian “cantuna”
and the gray San Vito marble. Architectural
beauty, preserved in the ancient Baglio Ba-
sile, is the chapel, built for the benefit of the
lords and peasants at their service, where
the various religious rites were performed.
The chapel has a rectangular plan, which
ends in the shape of an apse, where the altar
is placed. The ceiling of the chapel consists
of a “barrel-shaped” dome, finished with an-
cient stuccos, which reproduce floral and ge-
ometric motifs. The predominant colors are marble staircase has a barrel vault decorat-
the shades of blue and pink, characteristic of ed with a beautiful mottled pink enclosed
the Sicilian “sacred aedicules”. in white frame panels. Even walls have
Today Baglio Basile has been completely same colour and decoration. Still in building
renovated along with its interior furnishings façade, in the center and above the entrance
and has became a hotel with rooms and arch, there is a big balcony surmounted by
suites, restaurants and a modern “Wellness a round arch decoration with two initials MS
Center and Beauty Farm”. in the center, surmounted by a four-pointed
crown in a red background.
Looking out of the windows of the top floor
Baglio Spano’ and it is possible enjoy a wonderful sea view. The
sustainable reuse baglio is surrounded by luxuriant vineyards.
The doors and floors in beautiful majolica
are original. It still is a private ownership and
Another example of a baglio in the territory it is used as agritourism.
of Petrosino is the Baglio Spanò. It was an The structure offers the comfort of a modern
Episcopal property, then between 1873 and structure and at the same time keeps the
1882 the Marquis Nicolò Spanò from Marsala distinctive elements of the old Sicilian house
decided to build his baglio there. It is located unchanged.
in district Triglia Scaletta and it was charac-
terized by two connecting courtyards: one
reserved to the landowner’s family and the CONCLUSIONS
other one for all the farmer activities. The
majestic palace of the Marquis stands in Our present has its roots in our past but must
front of the entrance, on the main courtyard. focus on the future. For this reason, nothing
Its prestige is evidenced by the magnificence of the past must be cancelled. In this context
of the structure. The dominant colour of the restoration of historical buildings allows
building facade is pink. At the left of court- to recover the historical memory and make
yard you arrive at gound floor rooms and at them live again in a modern way. Respect
right side the staircase leads to the upper for the environment and traditions are es-
floors. The white Carrara sential. For this reason the administration of

143
Petrosino, in addition to the recovery of his- gramme report - Compte rendu. US/ICO-
toric buildings, also aims to perpetuate gas- MOS, Washington, pp. 514-521. [Book
tronomic and popular traditions organizing Section]
events and festivals that enhance local tradi- • Caruso Ignazio(1997). Breve storia ag-
tions and typical products (grape, “gnoccu- ronomica della vite e del vino in Sicilia.
lo” pasta etc ...). Marsala: Associazione marsalese per la
One of the most important and characteris- storia patria. 1997- IX, 87 p. 21
tic festival is the “festa di chianura”, it recalls • Emerson Avery (2015). Marsala’s hinter-
moments of farming and maritime life, and land: The evolution of Roman settlement
it is amazing attend the preparation of cakes in western Sicily. University of Pennsyl-
and pastries made from mulled wine and vania, ProQuest Dissertations Publish-
grape must are prepared. ing, 2015.
The economy of this territory is essentially • Giacomarra Mario (1997). Bagli e masse-
based on agriculture and Petrosino tries to rie a Palermo. Ariete, 1997: 32 p
focus on the use of 0 km and organic prod- • Grandori R. (1914). Risultati dei Nuovi
ucts, even in school canteens. The organic Studi Italiani sulla FILLOSSERA della vite.
market uses to take place in summer time. Hoepli editore
The peasant culture is passed down thanks • Manzo Cecilia, Pepori Chiara (2017).
to the creation of a museum located inside Amunì, tra mari e pirrere. Progetto per
the school “Istituto Comprensivo Nosengo”. il recupero del territorio elimo-ericino.
The “Museum of rural civilization” holds a Tesi di laurea urbanistica. Università de-
patrimony of tools and objects which allow gli studi di Palermo.
the reconstruction of the identity of the town • Nesto Bill, Di Savino Francesco (2013).
and show the techniques and procedures The World of Sicilian Wine. University of
linked to the activities which took place in California press.
the fields, in the craft workshops or in family • Neu I. (1957). An English Businessman in
households. Sicily, 1806–1861. Business History Re-
Protection of environment and landscape as view, 31(4), 355-374.
well as respect for culture and traditions are • Saeli M. (2011). Bagli e masserie della
the key to safeguarding the territorial identi- Sicilia centro-occidentale: casi di studio
ty and its specific features (Bartolotta et al. a confronto= Country Houses in the Mid-
2000). dle-West Sicilian Area: Cases of Study.
Firenze University Press.
• Trapani Nicola (2011). Marsala il vino e la
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• Barbera Maria (1989). Pieta’ popolare: le • Vinci Attilio L. (1995). PETROSINO, tra
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• Bartolotta Michelangelo, Di Naro Sabri- • Zanfi A. and Mencarelli S. (2013). Mar-
na, Lo Brutto Mauro, Misuraca Paola, Villa sala, in Sweet, Reinforced and Fortified
Benedetto (2000). Information systems Wines: Grape Biochemistry, Technology
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Amsterdam 2000.
• Bellanca Calogero (1987) Rural Archi- * * *
tecture in Sicily. In: Old cultures in new • Trapani Click and Go
worlds. 8th ICOMOS General Assembly • Turismo Trapani
and International Symposium. Pro- • Visit Petrosino

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• Petrosino
• Marsala wine
• Marsala wine’s background history

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