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MARRAKECH CITY GUIDE

HOME & BREAKFAST


IN MARRAKECH
THE RED CITY GUIDE
THE HIGH ATLAS &
THE SAHARA DESERT
Marrakech ( ‫) مراكش‬, also known as the Red city, is one of the historical
imperial cities of Morocco. It was funded in 1602 by the Almoravids
king Abu Bakr Ibn Omar and the name Marrakech comes from the
Amazigh (Berber) words Mour (n) Akouch, which means “Land of
God.” It’s the most touristic city of Morocco and lies not far from the
foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, but at the same time, it
is a few hours from the foot of the Sahara Desert. This contrasting
geographical situation grants to Marrakech incredible landscape:
sable and snow, desert and lush valleys.
THE MEDINA & THE
NOUVELLE VILLE
The city is divided into two distinct parts: the Medina, the ancient city,
and the new European modern district Ville Nouvelle where Guéliz
and Hivernage have place. The Medina is a labyrinth of intertwining
narrow streets and local shops and markets full of story and character.
On the contrary, Gueliz is full of modern hotels and restaurants, and
also big brand stores and fast food chains are not missing.
THE MONUMENTS
There is much to see and do in Marrakech. An entire day can be dedicated
to wandering around the souks, seeking out the best bargains, but the city
offers also several historical and architectural sites as well as some
interesting museums. Don't miss the storks fly over your head in many places
of the medina!
THE SAADIAN TOMBS
Built at the end of XVI century, under the kingdom of the sultan
Ahmed al-Mansur Saadi, and discovered only at the beginning of the
20th century, the mausoleum hosts the bodies of the Saadians in an
ambience full of beautiful decorations made of cedar wood, marble
and Zellije (Moroccan tiles). You can recognize the different tombs of
Jews and Christians because of the presence of different markings
and symbols. The good state of preservation of the Saadian Tombs
may be attributable to the fact that they were sealed off by the sultan
Moulay Ismail. At the time, Ismail was destroying architectural gems
such as the Badi Palace, but some speculate that, when it came to
the Saadian Tombs, his superstition got the better of him and
he decided to hide rather than demolish them.
THE EL BADI PALACE
El Badi Palace, which means “The incomparable palace” was once the
magnificent royal palace of the sultan Ahmad al-Mansur of the Saadi
Dynasty. Having taken twenty five years to build, El Badi Palace was a
lavish, grand sixteenth century complex of buildings with over 350
rooms, courtyards, gardens and a huge pool. Its construction
was funded by a substantial ransom paid by the Portuguese after the
Battle of the Three Kings. Around 1700 it was stripped of its
ornamentation to furnish the palace of Alaouite Sultan Moulay Ismail
in the new capital of Meknes. Unfortunately now is in ruins and
inhabited by storks and stray cats, but the view from the terrace is still
breathless. Visitors who get in through its gatehouse can view the
remnant of much of this site. Some of the highlights include its
sunken gardens, its subterranean passages and the Koubba el
Khamsiniyya or “main hall”, which has fifty columns.
THE BAHIA PALACE
The Bahia Palace, whose name means "The beautiful", is an ornate
and beautiful palace and a set of gardens, built in the late 19th
century, by Si Moussa, grand vizier of the sultan, for his personal use,
this palace would bear the name of one of his wives and intended to
be the greatest palace of its time. There is a 2 acre (8,000 m²) garden
with plants and flowers and 150 rooms opening onto courtyards.
Though only a portion of the palace is open to the public, you can see
the unfurnished, opulently ornamented harem that once housed Bou
Ahmed’s four wives and 24 concubines. The quarters of his favorite,
Lalla Zineb, are the most spectacular, with original woven-silk panels,
stained-glass windows, intricate marquetry and ceilings painted with
rose bouquets. Bahia’s story is an interesting one as a warlord Pasha
Glaoui claimed the palace to entertain French who were so
impressed that 3 years later, kicked out the Pasha Glaoui and turned
the palace into the home of the protectorate’s résident-généraux.
THE MEDERSA BEN
YOUSSEF
"You who enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded” reads the
inscription over the entryway to the Ali ben Youssef Medersa, and after
almost six centuries, the blessing still works its charms on visitors. It was
founded during the period of the Merenids (14th century) by the sultan
Abu al-Hassan and allied to the neighboring Ben Youssef Mosque, this
Quranic learning center was once the largest in North Africa, and remains
among the most splendid. The building of the madrasa was re-constructed
by the Saadian Sultan Abdallah al-Ghalib (1557–1574). In 1565 the works
ordered by Abdallah al-Ghalib were finished, as confirmed by the
inscription in the prayer room. Sight lines are lifted in the entry with carved
Atlas cedar cupolas and mashrabiyya (wooden-lattice screen) balconies.
The medersa’s courtyard is a mind-boggling profusion of Hispano-
Moresque ornament: five-colour zellije (mosaic) walls, stucco archways,
cedar windows with weather-worn carved vines, and a curved mihrab
(eastern-facing niche) of prized, milky-white Italian Carrara marble. The
carvings contain no representation of humans or animals, as required by
Islam, and consist entirely of inscriptions and geometric patterns. It hosted
130 student dormitory cells cluster around the richly decorated courtyard,
for a total of about 900 students. One of its best known teachers was
Mohammed al-Ifrani (1670-1745). Closed down in 1960, the building was
refurbished and reopened to the public as an historical site in 1982.
THE KOUTOUBIA
MOSQUE
It was built during the XII century by the first sovereign of the Almohads
family. This minaret which is the expression of an Hispano-Moresque
architecture, is 77 meters tall and has 3 balls on the top which are the
symbols of Water, Earth and Fire. Five times a day, one voice rises above
the Jemaa din in the adhan (call to prayer): that’s the muezzin calling the
faithful from atop the Koutoubia Mosque minaret. Excavations confirm a
longstanding Marrakshi legend: the original mosque built by Almoravid
architects wasn’t properly aligned with Mecca, so the pious Almohads
levelled it to build a realigned one. When the present mosque was
finished by Sultan Yacoub el-Mansour, 100 booksellers were clustered
around its base, hence the name, from kutubiyyin, or booksellers. While
the Koutoubia serves a spiritual purpose, its minaret is also a point of
reference for international architecture. The tower is the prototype for
Seville’s La Giralda and Rabat’s La Tour Hassan, and it’s a monumental
cheat sheet of Moorish ornament: scalloped keystone arches, jagged
merlons (crenellations), and mathematically pleasing proportions. The
minaret was sheathed in Marrakshi pink plaster, but experts opted to
preserve its exposed stone in its 1990s restoration. As with most mosques
in Morocco, non-Muslims are not allowed inside.
THE DAR MENEBHI
MARRAKECH MUSEUM
Dar Mnebhi Palace was built at the end of the 19th century by
legendary Mehdi Mnebhi, it was carefully restored by the Omar
Benjelloun Foundation and converted into a museum in 1997. The
house itself perfectly represents classical Andalusian architecture,
with fountains in the central courtyard, traditional seating areas, a
hammam and intricate, beautiful tile-work and carvings. The museum
holds exhibits of both modern and traditional Moroccan art together
with fine examples of historical books, coins and pottery of Moroccan,
Jewish, Berber and Arab cultures.
THE DAR SI SAID
ARTS & CRAFTS MUSEUM
The Dar Si Said Museum in Morocco is housed in an opulent palace that is a
delight to explore. The ground floor provides the perfect starting place and it
is here that visitors can get better acquainted with splendid items from the
past that are still very much in use today. Beautifully decorated weapons are
presented side by side with splendidly decorative clothing and beaten
copper articles while traditional Berber jewelry captivates and enchants. 
You can now make your way up to the first floor where you are greeted by
strong Hispano-Moorish decorations and stunning cedar wood complete
with intricate carvings. This reproduction of a salon is incredibly accurate
and so you can easily picture a blushing bride, complete in ceremonial dress,
making her way to the armchair as she prepares for her big day. Other rooms
on this floor are filled with an amazing variety of carpets that originate from
every corner of the globe. Some have made use of leather while others make
use of textiles to create items that accurately reflect the regions that they
come from. After exploring the second floor you might want to make your
way outside to the small courtyard where you will find exquisitely decorated
doors and window frames. The refined ornamentation on these items is
delicate and beautiful and it makes one marvel at the level of pride and joy
taken in building homes in the past. Taking such a journey through the past
helps you to better understand just how much of the past is still used by the
living when you make your way through the city streets – ancient traditions
are kept very much alive, though perhaps the general outlook on such
practices has changed somewhat.
MUST SEE PLACES
Marrakesh is a sensory-rich city in Morocco where you can experience a
unique blend of ancient traditions and modern conveniences. A city where
donkey carts, spice sellers, and snake charmers intermingle with luxury spas,
coffee shops, and tour buses. Besides the monuments, the city contains a
number of culturally and architecturally important sites and Marrakesh’s
medina was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. You haven’t
really been to Marrakech until you’ve got lost in the souks, spent the night
amid the storytellers of the Djemaa el-Fna and sipped mint tea while
debating the merits of the Berber rug that you’re contemplating purchasing.
THE DJEMAA EL-FNAA
Think of it as live, action channel, surfing: everywhere you look in the
Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh’s main square and open-air theatre, you’ll
discover drama already in progress. The hoopla and halqa (street
theatre) has been non-stop here ever since this square was the site
of public executions around AD 1050 – hence its name, which means
‘assembly of the dead’. By 10am, the daily performance is under way.
Snake charmers blast oboes to calm hissing cobras; henna tattoo
artists beckon to passersby; water-sellers in fringed hats clang brass
cups together, hoping to drive people to drink. The show doesn’t peak
until shadows fall and 100 chefs arrive with grills in tow, cueing
musicians to tune up their instruments. This is a show you don’t want
to miss – but stay alert to horse-drawn-carriage traffic, pickpockets
and rogue gropers. Arrive early in the evening to nab prime seats on
makeshift stools (women and elders get preference). Applause and a
few dirhams ensure an encore. It's a bargain show, and critically
acclaimed too: for bringing urban legends and oral history to life
nightly, Unesco declared the Jemaa el-Fna a ‘Masterpiece of World
Heritage’ in 2001. This square is the highlight of any Marrakech night.
Musicians, dancers, and story tellers pack this square at the heart of
the medina, filling it with a cacophony of drum beats and excited
shouts.
THE MEDINA &
THE SOUKS
This labyrinth-like market is a place to wander around and let your
senses be assaulted by the sights, smells and sounds. Prepare yourself
to bargain if you feel like shopping. Marrakech is a shopper’s nirvana!
A place where some of the finest hand crafted goods won’t cost you
the earth and, to add to the paradisaical tone, you’re actively
expected to bargain, what more could one ask for? If this sounds like
your idea of consumer heaven then head direct for the souks in the
North of the Medina, where you will find different artisans fashioning
all manner of products. Some markets to look out for include the
leather market and the carpet market where you can pick-up high
quality hand-woven rugs. For sheer interest alone, and to watch
real craftsmen at work, be sure to wander through the blacksmiths’,
dyers’ and carpenters’ markets. If the bustle of the souk gets to be too
much, and you’re all bartered out, then head over to the Ville
Nouvelle where the shopping experience comes air conditioned
boutique style. Here you will find exclusive designer wear and one-off
original items, artisan and antique shops and warehouse outlets.
THE CITY WALLS
The ramparts of Marrakesh, which stretch for some 19 kilometers (12
mi) around the medina of the city, were built by the Almoravids in the
12th century as protective fortifications. The walls are made of a
distinct orange-red clay and chalk, giving the city its nickname as the
"red city"; they stand up from 8 to 10 meters high and have 20 gates
(bab in Arab) and 200 towers along them. Bab Agnaou was built in
the 12th century during the Almohad dynasty. The Berber name
Agnaou, like Gnaoua, refers to people of Sub-Saharan African origin
(cf. Akal-niguinawen – land of the black). The gate was called Bab al
Kohl (the word kohl also meaning "black") or Bab al Qsar (palace gate)
in some historical sources. The corner-pieces are embellished with
floral decorations. This ornamentation is framed by three panels
marked with an inscription from the Quran in Maghrebi script using
foliated Kufic letters, which were also used in Al-Andalus. Bab Agnaou
was renovated and its opening reduced in size during the rule of
sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah. Bab Aghmat is located east of the
Jewish and Muslim cemeteries, and is near the tomb of Ali ibn Yusuf.
Bab Berrima with its solid towers stands near the Badi Palace. Bab er
Robb (meaning "Lord's gate") is a southern exit from the city, near Bab
Agnaou. Built in the 12th century, it provides access to roads leading
to the mountain towns of Amizmiz and Asni. Bab el Khémis, situated
in the medina's northeastern corner, is one of the city's main gates
and features a man-made spring.
THE MAJORELLE
GARDEN
The subtropical Majorelle Garden is located in the heart of Gueliz,
Hivernage. It is one of the most delightful and stunning spots within
this red walled city. Although the Majorelle Garden has existed in
Morocco for decades, it was only made famous abroad when the
Majorelle Garden’s former owner and care-taker, fashion designer
Yves Saint Laurent, featured it in the 1997 Chelsea Flower Show in
London. Since this time, many have journeyed to Morocco just to
see the Majorelle Garden. The Majorelle and its buildings are
embellished by a unique shade of cobalt blue - the featured color in
the garden. The garden is 12 acres in size and radiates with
multi-colored bougainvillea, rows of bright orange nasturtiums, pink
geraniums, bold pergolas and concrete paths that exist in shades of
pastel pink, lovely lemon and apple green. With the garden there are
the over fifteen different species of birds, such as turtle doves, bulbuls
and house buntings. With its beautiful groves of bamboo, date palms
and various lily covered pools, it is little wonder why these marvelous
creatures choose Majorelle Garden as their home.
LE JARDIN SECRET
The origins of Le Jardin Secret hark back to the second half of the
sixteenth century, when the Saadian Sultan Moulay ‘Abd-Allah
commenced upon the urbanization of what is now the Mouassine
district. However, in common with many important buildings of
Marrakech, the palace, which stood on the grounds of Le Jardin
Secret, was destroyed toward the end of the seventeenth century,
after the decline of the Saadian dynasty. Towards the middle of the
nineteenth century the kaid al-Hajj Abd-Allah U-Bihi came into
possession of the land, on which, fully respecting the layout of the
Saadian era complex, a new palace was built. Marrakech enjoyed a
substantial development in this period, which favoured the
construction of gardens and rich mansions. Shortly after, the kaid
U-Bihi, who was viewed suspiciously by Sultan Muhammad IV
because suspected of power intrigues, was killed with poisoned tea.
The property then passed into the possession of the qadi Moulay
Mustapha, a great judge who enjoyed close relations with the ruling
family. In 1912, he exchanged the palace with the manor of Fez of al-
Hajj Muhammad Loukrissi. The latter, the former head of the
watchmakers’ guild in Marrakech, had been elected in 1908 as
chamberlain of Sultan Moulay ‘Abd-al-Hafiz. When, in 1912, the Sultan
was exiled, al-Hajj Muhammad Loukrissi moved into this palace,
where he lived until 1934, the year of his death. The property then
ceased to be maintained properly, and soon fell into a state of
disrepair. The idea of restoring the building complex and opening it
to public took root in 2008, and Le Jardin Secret came into being
eight years later.
THE PALMERAIE
The Palmeraie of Marrakech has more than 100,000 trees, mainly
palm trees, on about 15,000 hectares as well as a production of dates
and a kitchen garden. It represents a natural and tourist heritage in
Morocco because it is both an exorbitant nature and ultramodern
urbanism. The history of the latter began in the 12th century when the
Almoravid dynasty entered Marrakech. These Berber sovereigns
created the palm grove of Marrakech, a few kilometers from the city.
At that time, some palm species were venerated as a symbol of life
and fertility. The crops were numerous and the density of trees made
it possible to protect oneself from the heat. Nowadays, the palm grove
represents the victory of man over nature. Indeed, the Moroccan
population has over time been able to supply the desert environment
and has imposed its existence in spaces where nature reigned
supreme. To walk the palm grove, what better than a carriage ride, a
means of transport very popular with tourists in Marrakech. However
the journey is long - twenty kilometers - visitors who do not wish to
linger can opt for a car ride or offer the services of a taxi. The road
inside the palm grove guides the visit. However, it is useless to think of
taking a walk off the marked trails, the visit is guided to preserve the
natural site. To go on the spot, the tourists will follow the route of
Oued Issil. The palm grove's surroundings are also inhabited by
numerous luxury hotels, majestic residences, golf courses and
swimming pools. An idyllic setting that many celebrities join
throughout the year. In short, a place of dreams, far from the rush of
the city of Marrakech to take a breath of fresh air!
THE MENARA GARDEN
The Menara gardens are gardens located to the west of Marrakech, at
the gates of the Atlas mountains. They were established in the 12th
century (c. 1130) by the Almohad ruler Abd al-Mu'min. The name
Menara derives from the pavilion with its small green pyramid roof
(menzeh). The pavilion was built during the 16th century surrounding
an artificial lake, the point of confluence of a canal system, used to
irrigate the surrounding gardens and orchards. The basin is supplied
with water thanks to an old hydraulic system which conveys water
from the mountains located approximately 30 km away from
Marrakech. The garden has a wonderfully tranquil location set amidst
olive groves and with the backdrop of the Atlas Mountains.
THE MELLAH
 Founded in 1558 by Moulay Abdallah, the Mellah district was designated as
the Jewish quarter in Marrakech. At the time of the Spanish religious wars,
Jewish refugees were escaping the country, and were offered this little
piece of security by the Sultan. Morocco’s noteworthy history includes a
long period where Muslim and Jewish settlers accepted each other’s
differences and worked to bring their businesses to fruition. The Mellah in
Marrakech refers to the area where Jews resided. Living in their own
separate quarter meant that they were protected in the Kasbah walls, more
easily watched and sure enough, taxed by the government. The Jews
formed lucrative careers working as the financial representatives of bankers,
tailors, and even the jewelers of the area. Mellahs in Morocco, especially by
the mid-1500s became their own small cities, which included synagogues,
outdoor markets, fountains, and balconies overlooking the tight alleyways
and streets. If you’d like to explore the Mellah, then you can enter through
the Place des Ferblantiers, which was once referred to as the Place de
Mellah. If you are having a hard time finding the area, look for the tin
workers who now line the outer edge of the square souk. In this area, you’ll
also be able to visit Place Souweka, which is a fountain that marks the
center of the quarters. When walking through the souk, attempt to stay on
the main passageways through and you’ll come upon the Jewish Cemetery
and shrines that are still visited today. The synagogues are also along this
same route and the main ones are called the Lazama and El Fasiines. The
Mellah of Marrakech is an interesting area that tells a story of Morocco’s
past, a country that has been open to those of different cultural and ethnic
backgrounds for centuries.
THE MAISON DE LA
PHOTOGRAPHIE
The Maison de la Photographie of Marrakech is a private foundation
created in 2009. The first will is to exhibit the exceptional diversity of
Morocco as it was seen by those who visited it: anonymous travelers or
famous photographers, since 1870 to 1960. An invitation to a better
knowledge of Morocco. The Maison de la Photographie is, first of all,
an Archive, supporting the concept of History of Ideas in Morocco. The
first and main adventure was to build that archive. The collection
contains photos, glass negatives, post cards, journals, maps, prints,
documentaries. Thematic and itinerant exhibitions are organized time
by time. From the rooftop, one of the highest in the area, you can
enjoy the beautiful view, while eating a light lunch.
THE SIDI BEL ABBES 
NEIGHBORHOOD
Bab Taghzout’s gate, of almoravidean origin, and the nearer Sidi Bel
Abbes neighbourhood, which have been linked to the Medina at the
end of 1700, represent an unquestioned historical-cultural heritage.
Bab Taghzout has remained a popular neighbourhood, still not
touristic, therefore, it’s quieter than the other neighbourhood where the
souks are. The little streets here are tight; the houses are simpler, with
children playing in front of the doors. Its beauty depends on the fact
that it seems to live in another age. In these streets, you can find a
traditional furnace, in which the inhabitants come to cook their
homemade bread, a public hammam, different markets and many little
shops. Do not miss the Zaouia Sidi Bel Abbes, the mausoleum of the
most famous of the seven saints of Marrakech, and the Mjadlia a street,
at which sides there are arcades and handcraft’s workshops that bring
you to the Poor’s Mosque. The monumental complex has been built in
different ages and it is made up of a medersa (school) and a mosque,
dated beginning of 1600, to which during the following centuries a
zaouia (oratory) and a fountain have been added.

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