CMYK

Tech Review

Getting higher productivity doesn’t mean working hard, i.e. working for more time with the
available resources. It is all about how smart we work. On sewing floor it refers to how efficient we
are at doing a piece of work, i.e. opting the best method with the combination of most recent
technology available. This not only increases the productivity but also saves money, improves
quality by reducing defects.
In this article Kunal Saurabh and Tameem Hussain, students of M.F.Tech, NIFT, Bangalore along with
Vasant Kothari, Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Technology discuss how to de-skill the
operation of stitching a Reinforcement Fabric in a Cargo Pocket using better technology.

Technology for Reinforcement of Sheeting

Behind the Cargo Pocket Mouth

A
reinforcement fabric either of the same material
or a sheeting material is required while working
with delicate fabrics or heavy stitching (more
stitches in a small area), i.e. embroidery, bar tacks, snap
buttons, etc. to give strength to the fabric.
For stitching a reinforcement fabric in the cargo pant
or cargo shorts at the mouth of the cargo pocket,
usually 4-6 bar tacks are required. This provides
strength to the part of the base fabric. For this
operation different levels of technologies are employed. Marking for pocket attach using
template

Basic Level of Technology

Face side of cargo pocket
The important factor in this operation is the proper
placement of pockets which is aided by markings. Also,
the stitch appearing on the face of the fabric has an
aesthetic look. Therefore, it is important to have it very
neat and even. This can be achieved only if the stitching
is done with the base fabric on top. But, this creates
handling problem if reinforcement fabric is manually
fused using double-sided fusing tape.
Juki DDL-9000A and Duerkopp Adler 251-140040 are Temporary fusing of
two most commonly used machines for the purpose. reinforcement fabric

There are three operational activities in the basic

technology which require one operator per operation
Reinforced fabric on the back (a total of 3 operators) as listed below:

Table 1. Operation Details for Basic Technology

Sl. No. Operation Equipment SAM

1 Marking for the pocket placement Table 0.55
2 Fusing the reinforcement Iron table 0.65
fabric on back of fabric manually
3 Stitching on pattern line with Single needle 1 Stitching of reinforced fabric
face side up of base fabric lock stitch from the faceside

26 StitchWorld z MAY 2009

 CMYK

Advanced Level and the operator has no

of Technology hurdles once the machine is
set. Even the information
The use of pattern tacking
can be set by any semi-
machine for tacking the two
skilled operator who knows
panels helps in eliminating a simple English.
lot of manual operation and
errors. It also helps in There are various machines
decreasing the SAM, and thus available in the market
increasing the productivity. which can change (combine
and thus simplify) the
The new operation sequence operation in the desired way.
becomes: SUNSTAR SPS/A (B)1811/2211 Sunstar SPS/A (B)1811/2211 Series Electric Pattern Sewing machine
1. Load both panels on the SERIES, Juki AMS 215D and
work clamp Brother BAS-311 are some of
SPECIFICATION TABLE
2. Just push the button to the names. SUNSTAR SPS/A
(B)1811/2211 electronic Stitch type 1-Needle, Lockstitch
start the stitching Sewing speed Max 2000 SPM (When Stitch length 3 mm or less)
pattern sewing machine has
3. Reload the tacked panels Stitch length 0.1 to 12.7 mm
a maximum running speed
from the work clamp. Height of pressure foot 20 mm
of 2000 SPM at a stitch length Stroke of pressure foot Standard 4 mm (0.5 – 10 mm)
No matter what the size of of up to 3 mm. It produces Feeding frame lift Max 30 mm
the pattern is, the clamp can lockstitches of size 0.1 mm Needle DPX17 # 18 (For medium/heavy-weight material)
be designed accordingly. The top 12.7 mm and can lift the Hook Semi-rotary large shuttle hook
number of stitches (stitches stitching frame up to 30 mm. Memory 3.5” Floppy disk
per inch) and the stitch line, The memory of the machine No of stitches 3,60,000 stitches
i.e. curves, turns and back can be fed with designs via a No of patterns Max 691 patterns
tacks, all this information is 1.5" floppy disk (see the Safety devices Emergency stop, max speed limit function
fed to the machine which is Specification Table on the Motor Step up motor
Power source 1-phase (110 V) and 3-phase (220 V)
computer programmed right for more details).

ROI CALCULATION
ROI CALCULATION BASIC ADVANCED REMARKS
SAM value of operation 2.20 0.58
Production per day 218 823 Production per day = Length of day/SAM; Length of the day = 8 Hours
Production per annum 68073 256731 Working days in a year = 26 X 12 = 312
Production target/day 850 850
No of operators required 12 1
Salary per operator per annum Rs 36000 42000
Total salary (A) Rs 432000 42000
Cost of a machine Rs 56000 400000 One machine in basic refers to one SNLS + One marking table + One fusing iron
Cost of a machine (in basic technology) = 50,000 (SNLS) + 1000 (Marking table)
+ 5000 (Fusing iron)
Total cost of machines Rs 224000 400000 Total no. of machines = 4
Annual depreciation 15% 15%
Stitching cost of an operation Rs 1.85 1.85 Stitching cost of an operation = Stitching cost per SAM X SAM of an operation
= SAM X Rate per SAM
Rate per SAM = Rs 2.1; Stitching cost per SAM = 40 % of Rate per SAM=2.1X0.40=0.84 ;
Cut Make (CM) price of an operation = SAM X Rate per SAM
Yearly CM price per machine Rs 125798.4 474953.1 Yearly CM price per machine = Stitching cost of an operation X Production per annum
Yearly CM price of total no. of machine (B) Rs 503193.6 474953.1
Effective CM price constant , C =( B-A) Rs 71193.6 432953.1
Depreciated value after 1 year Rs 194782.6 347826.1 Depreciated Value(DV) = NBV/{1+DR/100}n, where NBV = Net Book Value;
ROI after 1 year % 36.6 124.5 ROI for any year= [CM Price from total machine - total operator salary till that year] ÷
Depreciated value of total machine, expressed as a percentage

MAY 2009 z StitchWorld 27