BRIAN
JOHNSON
New Concepts
New Craft
Blockade
Runner
ALPHA
Building
Borderlands
Claptrap
www.scififantasymodeller.co.uk
info@scififantasymodeller.co.uk
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00 titles_HFTM_vol43_pp3-8_scifi 08/09/2016 14:56 Page 3
Volume 43
00 titles_HFTM_vol43_pp3-8_scifi 08/09/2016 14:56 Page 4
web: www.scififantasymodeller.co.uk
editorial email: info@scififantasymodeller.co.uk
Published by Happy Medium Press copyright © 2016
ISBN-13: 978-0-9930320-8-0
All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part The Publishers and authors (contributors) take no responsibility for any harm
without written permission from the Publishers, except by a reviewer who may or injury to the reader as a result of using the techniques described in this
quote brief passages in a review; nor may any part of this book be reproduced, publication. Safety and common sense should always be foremost when
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, using these techniques and materials. Read all instructions and warnings on
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other, without written tools, paint, glues, and all chemicals. Hobby knives are very sharp and serious
permission from the Publishers. injury can result from improper use. Your work area should be well ventilated
The views expressed by our contributors are not necessarily shared by at all times. Children should be supervised at all times by an adult familiar
Happy Medium Press. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of with hobby safety. Please note that all hints, tips and procedures in this
Sci.fi & fantasy modeller are accurate, but the Publishers cannot accept publication are given in good faith and based on actual experience. However,
responsibility for errors. Responsibility for correct copyrighting of photographs, neither the Publishers nor authors (contributors) can be responsible if
artwork and illustrations lies with the contributors. All copyrights are something goes wrong during construction.
acknowledged. Reasonable care is taken when accepting advertising. However,
the Publishers cannot accept any responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory
transactions or any inaccuracies contained within the ads themselves.
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00 titles_HFTM_vol43_pp3-8_scifi 08/09/2016 14:56 Page 5
volume 43 EDITORIAL
...I often find myself in Awe (deliberate cap ‘A’... and, introduce new subjects into a world whose internet
no, I’m not referring to a small but very interesting town ‘values’ increasingly expect everything for free.
in the north-west of England). I just therefore wanted to take one of
I’m often in awe when I open the box of those moments to say ‘blimey!’ and ‘thank
either a garage or mainstream kit and you!’ to all the SF and fantasy subject
simply have to marvel at the talent and creators out there. We wouldn’t be here
sweat that have made it possible. Recent without you, and the modelling world
sharp-intake-of-breath-inducers have would be a far poorer, less interesting
included the Moebius Penguin kit, with its place.
beautiful head sculpt by Jeff Yagher, the Keep doing what you do, guys and gals.
artistry of the Proteus test shot from the Just time to mention that our very own,
same company, the hard work that has utterly awesome Modelling: 1999 special
gone into the lovingly crafted Amphicat kit is out now. It’s going faster than a
from Century Castings, Olivier Xavier’s ...um...very fast thing, so if you haven’t got
sculpting prowess on his new Alan Carter figure release your copy, better hurry.
(your skills make me so-o-o jealous, Olivier)... the list is Thank you as always for reading. Look forward to
impressive and endless. seeing you in ninety.
I wonder how often we take a moment to consider just Take care, all.
how much thought and effort and currency go into the Michael G. Reccia
creation of each release, and how difficult it must be to Editor-In-Chief
MK3
Alpha Moonbase
laser tank
New from UNCL is a 1/48th
Mk 1 Space: 1999 Laser
Tank. The highly detailed 9"
long resin kit includes etched
brass parts and decals. Priced
at £69.95 from Timeless
Hobbies, a full build and
review will feature in Volume
44 of this title (image is a WIP
shot).
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00 titles_HFTM_vol43_pp3-8_scifi 08/09/2016 14:57 Page 8
ROUND 2
Jamie Hood from Round 2 has given us an early look at MKA018/06 U.S.S. Enterprise NCC-1701 Pilot Parts
the following box images for 2016 releases: Pack.
MKA019/06 U.S.S. Enterprise NCC-1701-D Aztec ‘The Enterprise box set featuring the new 1:2500
decals – Art reflects ST: Generations version. Produced scale NX-01 has slipped back into 2017. The Lindberg
by Cartograf. 5 Ships of the Future set and Sweaty Swatter figure kit
have also slipped a few months back into 2017.
!
continued page 86
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01-Galactica Part 2_pp9-16_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 15:03 Page 9
Galactica:
Quest for Perfection
Jim Key of Custom Replicas meticulously creates a museum-quality,
studio scale replica of the last Battlestar.
Two of two.
SINCE THE HEAD - MODULE WAS GOING TO BE A remember the engine section, main body and
MAJOR POINT OF COMPLEXITY, I CHARLES
HIRED arms coming down first, which went together
ADAMS TO PERSONALLY BUILD THAT. I then opted just as cleanly as any high quality Tamiya or
to have the remainder of the ship sent down to Hasegawa kit, from which we sourced a lot of
us as revised laser-cut files which my main two parts. The Landing Bays came a bit later after
builders, Mark Büchler and Jason Voss, began they had been worked out. Extensions to the
to assemble and adorn with resin parts. Since it armature allowed us to build the Bays as
was verified in the computer as a 3D file, we separate components and then simply plug
used Charles’ build renders as instructions to them into the ends of the armature.
put everything together and test fit. I can
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I have to admit that the anticipation on the placement comparisons. And if that wasn’t
Galactica head structure had been weighing enough, the top panel came off so we could have
on our team for quite a while. Charles had ease of access to the front of the armature and for
been keeping me apprised of the progress, but installing the fibre-optics.
had misgivings based on the curvatures that
were everywhere along the side panels. Test attachments of the head section to the neck
Needless to say, he was a bit worried that it section and adding the engine section quickly
wouldn’t match the 3D as well as drawn up. I created the illusion of having most of the Galactica 1-2: front and rear
told him to pack it up and ship it to us ASAP. at a whopping nearly 75 inches in length. We then sections of Landing
From there we would deal with any set-up a 6 foot table to lay the beast onto, so the Bay under
inconsistencies. continual addition of resin and plastic parts could construction.
1 2
3 4
What arrived was nothing short of ‘amazing’, be added to the build. Jason’s only fear at night 3: Looking into
and I don’t use that word lightly. I expected to would be to come in the next morning and find the landing bay
spend weeks tweaking this module, since it was the that I had chiselled off parts to realign them more opening.
most integral part of the ship, ahead of the precisely to the Chris Pappas original Galactica
Landing Bays and engine rear plate. What I most photos we were following. For the most part this 4: Andrew Probert
liked, beside it having ‘fit’ together correctly, was only happened a few times as so much of the build Landing Bay
that it was mostly on black acrylic for light- aligned easily and quickly. artwork.
tightness and contrast. Adding acne (small white
styrene chips) and beige resin cast parts was It took months to get all the resin cast and parts
exceedingly easier and photographed well for cleaned up to populate the many sections. What
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01-Galactica Part 2_pp9-16_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 15:04 Page 11
5: Landing bay looked good one day would look different the next and brightness. The boards also contained the
chase-light and so on, until I had to promise to put the dread constant on lights along the outer walls. The real
electronic boards. chisel away and just let the crew build and be done prize here in the Landing Bays was gaining artist
with it – after which we had the long and arduous Andrew Probert’s permission to use his exact
6: Removable process of cutting and fitting the styrene piping artwork to scale into place for each back wall as
landing bay between many of the resin parts, all of which had translucent scrims. Warm white LEDs illuminate
extension rails. to fit precisely, hence my concern about the resin the Bays from behind the scrims and can be
parts placement. removed from the end-cap via slides and magnets
for repair work if needed. Once painted, I had
We had been working up to the Landing Bays all Jason Voss spend hours pencilling in the tiny panel
along the build, knowing that we would have to lines to mimic the original.
5 6
7 8
7: close-ups of the install the electronics at the same time as the end- It should be pointed out that there is actually
underside caps were being attached. Atlantia had been a much more to do on the bottom sides of the ship
Coffin/Pyramid wonderful warm-up on this section, defining the than atop. The areas ahead of the central stand
section. shapes, parts and installation of the electronics mounting pole, known as the ‘Coffin’ and
8: iconic front boards. A major shout-out to Randy Buckner who ‘Pyramid’ were particularly detail-intense. Atlantia
portside arm face designed and successfully carried out the board had primed us for this process. Filling in the
being filled in. configurations (placement of the LEDs) to mimic undersides of the arms and rear Engine/Waist area
the correct forced perspective from layouts we left little wiggle room for adding resin and plastic
provided him. The trim pots at the ends of the parts.
boards allowed us to increase/decrease chase speed
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9 10
11 12
13 14
15 16
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9-10: Engine/Waist
underside details & I wanted to repeat the weathering process we Head section and Engine tops to start adding the
arms. 11-13: Priming, used on Atlantia, but not quite as dark. The model hundreds of fibre-optic strands. This also included
painting and was first given two light coats of Model Masters the LED thruster floodlights, fans, honeycomb
weathering the hull.
14: adding the fiber- Lt. Ghost Gray to tone down the black surfaces. thruster insets and LED collimators (where the
optics, LEDs, Then darker grey washes were applied to all the fibre stalks were collected into). All lighting was
collimators, and fans low cavities and patchwork, thus helping also to designed for serviceability and replacement, but on
for lighting tests.
15: finishing the give depth to the engraved lines. Same applied to average to last 20,000 hours. And, best of all, no
cross-links and adding the Landing Bays and End-caps. discernable heat. However, as a safety precaution,
the Landing Bays. we did use miniature DC fans behind the thruster
16: custom dry-
transfers for the Now comes the point, just ahead of adding the floodlights to provide extra cooling. In the end
nameplates at Landing Bays, where you open the Main Body, bench testing revealed we could run all lights for
Landing Bays fronts.
17 18
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Opposite: two HDRI hours with no real heat effects. All harnesses ran
views of the down through the stand column to a small control
completed box, allowing for each circuit to be individually
Galactica. switched on or off.
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01-Galactica Part 2_pp9-16_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 15:04 Page 16
Top: Richard Hatch with Sharon and Jim Key and Charles Adams.
Opposite: Charles, Jim and Sharon with Edward James Olmos.
Below: Glen A. Larson appreciates the Galactica replica.
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02-Rancor_pp17-21_scififantasyModeller 09/09/2016 10:58 Page 17
Underfloor Eating
AMONG ALL THE MONSTERS handful of key scenes, the Rancor was not,
AND MYRIAD OTHER STRANGE, however, animated via stop motion but rather by
WEIRD AND TERRIFIC hand, being realised, in fact, as an articulated
INHABITANTS of the Star Wars foam puppet with rod mechanisms operating its
universe, the Rancor is my arms and hands.
favourite...
Star Wars is well known for its merchandising,
This creature was having spawned, amongst other items, numerous
imagined for Return of the spaceship toys and model kits that countless
Jedi by famous artist and children have made and played with since 1977.
master of stop motion Surprisingly, however, it was not until 1998 that
technique Phil Tippett in AMT decided to add the Rancor to its Star Wars
1983. Appearing in just a ranks as a superbly sculpted vinyl kit.
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First step filled with plaster rather than foam because this
As with all builds, the project began with a was easier to use.
thorough cleaning of all parts in soapy water,
using a toothbrush to reach into all the nooks and A two-part epoxy cement was the glue of choice
crannies as the kit’s surfaces are very irregular. In here in effectively joining the limbs to the body –
this case this step could also have been carried out epoxy can be applied in the form of dough-like
at a later stage, allowing for the necessary heavy strands and is easy to sculpt and modify. At this
handling of the model during assembly. As to the stage I placed two brass rods under the feet to aid
choice of vinyl for this subject, its properties make in the paint process by allowing me to pin the
it a very adaptable material to release figure kits in model onto a temporary wooden base and, later
but warm temperatures and time can have an on, onto a definitive one. If you’re making this
effect on it, eventually deforming its contours even subject and haven’t cleaned the model by this
if components have been carefully and thoroughly stage, it’s time to do so now, using both soap and
glued together. alcohol.
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02-Rancor_pp17-21_scififantasyModeller 09/09/2016 10:58 Page 20
claws and nails were painted in the correct tones The painted part looked authentic, however.
and coated with gloss clear/satin varnish, not Many different painting techniques were used
forgetting the eyes. The dribble of saliva is just a to accomplish the end result, including washes,
piece of clear plastic found in the spares box, dry brushing, localised hairspray to enhance
coated with clear varnish and bonded in place small areas and specific details painted on using
between the teeth. a fine brush.
The handcuffs were painted in metallics with The Gamorrean Guard was finished with the
a black wash applied to give relief. I painted same paints plus the addition of a fluorescent
rather than replaced the sculpted ear ring, paint inside the mouth and around the eyes to
simply because I didn’t think to use a real one! give the poor victim an enhanced, panicky look!
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02-Rancor_pp17-21_scififantasyModeller 09/09/2016 10:58 Page 21
The base
From Star Wars to Indiana Jones is one of my
most useful reference books (plus Sci-fi &
fantasy modeller, of course)... I‘ve always loved
the photograph showing the Rancor in its
minimalist set, which lends the creature a
museum quality that I wanted to replicate for
myself (this simple setting is also perfect for the
modeller who doesn’t want to have to work too
hard to create a convincing backdrop). So, the
model stands on a wooden base layered with
gloss black paint and the wall behind is a cut-out
board coated with white glue and plaster to
create that decrepit look. Add some artistic use
of brush and paints and I’d got the result I was
looking for!
Conclusion
I’m very pleased with the completed model. I
only hope Jabba will be happy with this build
too as my Jedi training is not yet complete and,
more importantly, I don’t look so good in a
bikini…
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03-TB Are Go Mole_pp22-30_scififantasyModeller 09/09/2016 10:45 Page 22
The Mole:
The Next Generation
Barry Ford builds Takara-Tomy’s
Thunderbirds Are Go kit
THE NEW SERIES OF THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO Whilst here in the UK the merchandise to
APPEARS TO BE HAVING A ‘MARMITE EFFECT’ on appear thus far has been centred on toys, our
viewers: either they love it or they loath it. I, friends in Japan have been working on a range of
unlike my ‘appreciation’ of Marmite, am model kits, the very first of which landed at my
thoroughly enjoying this new incarnation of my front door from that most wonderful website,
favourite television series. Yes, I can see it has its HobbyLink Japan, on New Year’s Eve. ...So that
faults and it is disappointing that physical models was my first modelling project of 2016 sorted.
were not used for the main Thunderbird craft,
but I do think it is a valid interpretation of the The 1/48th scale model of the Mole is
concept for today’s audience. produced by Takara-Tomy (a name with a
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03-TB Are Go Mole_pp22-30_scififantasyModeller 09/09/2016 10:45 Page 23
1 2
3 4
1. parts and box art. history of producing quality Thunderbirds pre-painting the parts on the sprues to minimise
2. wheels given a merchandise), and the first thing to impress is the the need for masking using Vallejo Flat Yellow and
coat of Boltgun quality of the box artwork: a stunning painted Games Workshop Boltgun Metal (as was). The
Metal before scene with the Mole in the foreground and exception to this was the wheels (which are
applying chipping Thunderbirds 1 and 2 in the background. Opening yellow) to which I applied a base coat of Boltgun
fluid. the box I discovered that the parts had been Metal before coating with the chipping fluid
3. yellow paint moulded in their appropriate colours and, as this produced by Ammo, amongst others. Over this
added. was clearly a push fit kit, I would imagine that it was airbrushed a flat yellow, which was gently
4. drive section would be simple and straightforward for a rubbed away to create a random chipping effect.
assembled. youngster to quickly build a passable replica of the
vehicle using the stickers supplied. The kit comes I then put together the lower chassis following
supplied with a motor and gears to drive the drill the instructions, which was fairly straightforward
bit and tracks. However, on closer inspection of other than having to deal with the filing and
the parts it becomes obvious that a detailed replica sanding of an awkward join between the two main
of the Mole could also be built by the more body parts. My concern over my modelling skills
Overleaf: experienced modeller and this option has been was assuaged when a large gap could be seen
5. drive section catered for by the inclusion of a set of decals that between these parts on the kit instruction
assembled. replicate the stickers. The only downside to the kit photographs. I chose to weather the yellow parts
6. tracks. is the very poorly detailed Virgil figure, but more with Ammo Streaking Grime, which is an enamel
7-8. drive section on that later. wash that is applied then allowed to dry before
weathered. using enamel thinners on a clean brush with a
9-10. decals applied. Printed reference material for the Mole is almost downward motion to break up the plain block of
11. motor unit non-existent and not a lot is to be found online, so colour and give an immediate worn appearance.
painted. I ended up re-watching relevant episodes and For the first time I used Ammo’s Panel Line Wash,
12. cockpit painted. making notes on the instruction sheet. I began by which is another enamel based product, and I was
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5 6
7 8
9 10
11 12
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13 14
15 16
17 18
19 20
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03-TB Are Go Mole_pp22-30_scififantasyModeller 09/09/2016 10:46 Page 26
very impressed with how it flowed into the middle. I decided the only thing to do was to try Previous page:
recesses via capillary action. The metallic grey and hide the seam by covering the tracks with mud 13. cockpit fitted to
parts were given a wash using Ammo Engine and dirt deposits. To avoid bending the tracks motor unit.
Grime and, once dry, black pigment powder was once the mud was added – thereby losing the mud 14-15. cockpit.
applied to the recesses. A coat of gloss varnish was – I fitted the tracks to the vehicle first. I created the 16. drill bit built and
sprayed onto the model to provide a base for the dirt and mud deposits by mixing various colours painted.
waterslide decals which were placed using a two- of pigment powder with Plaster of Paris and 17. underside of side
part decal setting system. Once the decals were enamel thinner. When wet these powders tend to tracks requires filling
thoroughly dry they were given another coat of be very dark and you can become quite concerned with strips of
gloss varnish followed by a final matt. With the that you have made a mess of the model... but, plasticard.
decals in place additional weathering was created once dry, the pigments return to their original 18. cockpit outer.
by splattering on mud and dust coloured washes colours. 19. Canopy masked
using an old brush flicked by a toothpick. and painted.
It was now time to turn my attention to the pod 20. pod primed.
The tracks are made of vinyl and are, quite itself and I did this by painting up the cockpit in a
frankly, a pain in the bum. Paint will stick to some combination of dark grey, black and yellow
vinyl tracks but when I applied a coat of primer to finished with the supplied decals applied as before.
these it just flaked off and I had to go through an The canopy is made from a clear plastic that feels 21. shade colours
exercise of cleaning them up. This did give me the slightly softer than normal clear plastic parts but added.
opportunity to try and remove the very obvious responded well to sanding. I would say that the 22. base colour
seam down the middle of the track by sanding plastic has a very, very slight milkiness to it but not applied.
them – but to no avail. To act as a flexible base for enough to be a worry. The canopy glazing was 23. assembly of Pod.
further layers I sprayed the tracks with a coat of masked by adding Tamiya masking tape to each 24A. kit supplied
matt varnish before applying washes of various panel and burnishing it using a cocktail stick. A Virgil.
colours... which, whilst bringing out the detail of sharp knife was then used to cut around the edges 24B. my Virgil has no
the tracks also emphasised the seam line down the and remove the excess. A coat of grey primer was nose.
21 22
23 24A 24B
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25 26
27 28
29 30
31 32
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03-TB Are Go Mole_pp22-30_scififantasyModeller 09/09/2016 10:46 Page 28
sprayed on, which also acted as the inner colour of It was at this point that I tried fitting a battery Previous page:
the framing before being airbrushed with the to the motor for the first time post construction 25-26. cockpit.
Vallejo Flat Yellow. and painting and found that the motor no longer 27-28. Virgil in situ.
worked... I think some of the paint must have got 29. carved foam
The pod was then constructed as per the into the switch and blocked a connection – no base.
instructions, including the electric motor, which at great loss. 30. cork bark added.
this point I thought may be of interest and the 31. initial application
switch was not obtrusive. Generally speaking the I continued construction of the remaining parts of rocks.
parts on this kit fitted together very well but some including the drill bit, painting and weathering 32. base primed.
joints on the pod needed to be sanded and filled, each component prior to building using the
which damaged the previously painted parts. techniques previously described. Once the pod
Rather than using a standard rattle can primer I module was complete I mounted it on the drive
airbrushed on a bespoke primer made by mixing section.
Vallejo Flat Yellow with their White bottled
primer. Looking at references it appears that the The last thing to do was build and paint the
CG model has some shading to panel edges so for Virgil Tracy figure that was cast in the clear
this I used a darker shade of Yellow from the plastic. I didn’t expect great things from this but,
Andrea Yellow paint set before returning with the after giving it a coat of primer, I decided to
Flat Yellow. Boltgun Metal detailing was added abandon it due to the poor detailing, which is
and the pod was then weathered using the same inexcusable really when you consider the level of
techniques described earlier. detail that is possible on small figures these days.
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03-TB Are Go Mole_pp22-30_scififantasyModeller 09/09/2016 10:47 Page 30
Classic kits
from
Studio 2 set about making a base for the model by using a
carved section of insulation and modelling foam
Models glued together with a hot glue gun on a timber
base. Sections of rock were added using cork bark
Large scale:
and some Plaster of Paris railway rocks from
• SHADO mobile • SKY 1 moulds. This was all tied together with an
• Skydiver • Stingray application of Woodland Scenics layered on with
• Terror Fish an old butter knife and an artist’s trowel. When
Friendly service dry the putty was sanded smooth to remove any
ridges and further blend everything together.
with superb after sales support.
http://studio2models.webs.com/ The base was coated with PVA glue and various
email: studio2models@hotmail.co.uk grades of stones were positioned and allowed to
Tel: 07534 294 216 settle while the glue set. Loose stones were shaken
off and even finer grades of stone and sand were
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04-HoverBike_pp31-36_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 15:10 Page 31
1 2 3
4 5 6
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04-HoverBike_pp31-36_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 15:11 Page 32
7 8 9
10 11 12
13 14 15
following my building of the model. The O.R.C.A. cleaning process. The larger parts were then
Hover Bike seems to fit into the company’s Hostile primed with Halfords grey automotive primer
Realms™ universe and is a fascinating design whilst the smaller bits and pieces were brush-
which gives the modeller build options in the form primed using the Vallejo acrylic-polyurethane
of a military or civilian version of the machine. In product.
the interests of world peace, I opted for the latter.
Thoughts then turned to colour
I hope that modellers with experience of the schemes. The decal sheet includes a
material will bear with me whilst I state what to number of options that might indicate
them will be the obvious but working with resin the bike’s use as a delivery vehicle so I thought that 16
does require some care, particularly when using a corporate colour scheme might be interesting.
abrasives and especially if working with power For no particular reason I chose to use a neutral
tools. Inhaling the resultant dust is not a healthy grey with just a hint of green for the main body 7. panel in its
option and so a dust mask is an essential and not and deck tan for the panniers and so airbrushed housing. 8. handle-
just a fashion accessory. these colours on the relevant kit parts before bars added. 9. controls
assembly began in place on chassis.
Having checked that all the parts needed were 10. primer to side
present and correct (there’s a photo-spread The instructions were clear and presented with panels. 11. adding a
provided showing all of these and giving the photographic step-by-step panels but I would clear running light
numbers that key to the instructions) it was endorse the manufacturer’s advice to test fit as feature. 12. headlight
obvious that some clean-up of mould-tabs and so much as possible before assembly as, for example, insert. 13. left and
on would be needed on almost all parts but that, the chassis component beneath the seat in step 1 centre: the two heads
in my experience, is the nature of resin kits and needed some further work before it would fit. supplied with the kit.
didn’t prove to be an onerous task. On the right is
In the interests of brevity I won’t detail every the replacement
With the trimming and clean-up completed, the stage of construction but, rather, draw attention to sculpted head.
parts were then steeped in warm, soapy water for points of interest. The dashboard (Do motorbikes 14/15. some arm and
a few minutes, rinsed in clean water and set aside have dashboards?) is one of the components hand surgery.
to dry. I find that, with small kit parts, a tea or supplied in a clear material, I suspect in part 16. basic re-
pasta strainer is a useful accessory in helping to because this might be illuminated using the positioned figure
ensure that nothing goes AWOL during the lighting kit available from Wild House. I wasn’t (with moustache).
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04-HoverBike_pp31-36_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 15:11 Page 33
intending to add the lighting kit but the clear mode, the forward landing leg is deployed and
material did present the opportunity of bringing here a detail is worth noting. When the leg is
out the screen at the centre of the panel. This was extended there are two bay doors (both part 41)
achieved simply by painting the screen area with a which would be positioned open. This is not
clear green and adding a small square of actually mentioned in the instruction but is shown
aluminium kitchen foil behind as a reflector. The by a photographic insert at step 12.
dashboard/control panel unit sits on the body of
the bike via a small component (part 14) with a Step 14 indicates that two holes for running
curved underside designed to sit on a matching lights should be drilled, one in each of the main
moulding. This was push-fitted and given several forward body panels. I assume that this is, again,
dry-run assemblies before any adhesive was intended to accommodate the lighting kit but there
applied. were no lenses supplied although the specification
on the box mentions three clear acrylic parts and I
Step 9 involved fitting two shallow domes to the could only discover two, both of which are
two main forward body panels (parts 29 and 31). accounted for in the descriptions above. Perhaps
If the kit was being assembled step-by-step the third part provides the lenses for these running
without any reading ahead or test fitting, the lights but they are not referred to as such in the
photograph of this stage could lead to the instructions. In the case of my model, I filled the
17. under-shading misunderstanding that these two halves should be guide holes with Microscale Kristal Kleer and
to figure. glued together – which is not the case. Step 10 added a dab of clear orange when this was dry.
18. engine detail. involves inserting a forward clear headlight panel
19. chassis. into the frame that will surround and separate the The penultimate step in the assembly of the
20. chassis with two body panels and, if the lighting kit is to be civilian version of the bike was the main (rear)
side panels. installed, I imagine that the clear panel would need landing gear. I had some concerns here as it
21. lift engines. to be removed from the mould plug. As I was not appeared to be too delicate to support the weight of
22. forward lighting the model, I simply removed some of the the model but was actually a lot sturdier than it
landing leg. flash from the plug and inserted the whole thing. looked. Positioning this landing gear wasn’t too
23. rear landing tricky but did need care. The process was helped
leg. Steps 11 and 12 cover the options of displaying greatly by the four leg components being push-
24. basic paint to the model in flight or landing mode and I’d fitted and then tested for position before any
figure. already decided to produce a basic diorama setting adhesive was applied. Having said that, my version
25. stabilisers. so the choice was, for me, obvious. In landing is rather ‘toe-down’ compared with the
17
11 18
11 19
20 21
11 22
23 24
11 25
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26 27
28 29
illustrations provided with the kit. As the leg civilian chum is equipped with goggles. As the 26. decal to
components have the relevant sockets pre-moulded Editor-in-Chief, Mr Reccia, likes models in stabiliser edge.
and as the fixing points on the lower chassis settings – and as I was for once a little ahead of 27. further decal
seemed very obvious I’m really not sure how I’ve deadline – I thought I might give myself the option application: note
gone awry here. Truth to tell it doesn’t detract from of a figure that could be shown both seated and the number of
the finished model but does mean that the bike is standing. The latter option was accommodated by options!
perched somewhat precariously on the base – but I the fact that the driver was modelled with legs 28. decal detail.
suppose that’s what hovering is all about. akimbo – Legs Akimbo being one of my favourite 29. completed
1920’s Chicago gangsters. bike.
The driver figure supplied is a fine piece of
work. His body is common to both versions but This customisation meant re-positioning the
the military chap has a full-face helmet whilst his arms and giving the driver new hands. The hands,
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30 31 32
33 34 35
30-35 Diorama as supplied, are gripping the ends of the bike’s At this stage my ambitions outstripped my
construction handlebars and, if the driver is used gripping these abilities as I’d decided to sculpt a new head which,
stages. controls, I think it would be necessary to chop off at this scale, was easier said than done. I
the top of the handlebars as they are supplied, eventually came up with something that at least
although no mention is made of this in the looked human (from a distance) and gave him a
instructions. Indeed, there are no assembly biker moustache made from paper as he is, after
instructions for the driver figure(s) at all but what all, a biker.
goes where is very obvious.
Weathering: I love weathering. I’m also aware of
As I wanted my driver to be in a rather more a propensity to get carried away so I gave due
relaxed pose, whether seated or standing, and thought to the environment in which the bike
didn’t want him holding vestigial handlebars, new would sit. I gather that Wild House’s Hostile
hands were needed. A trawl through the spares Realms™ is not set in some future dystopia but in
box revealed that all I had in stock were 1:35 scale a world that has benefitted from adopting alien
figures so I bought a set of Airfix WWII German technology, hence hover bikes and parking warden
Mountain Troops in 1:32, as the box art indicated targeting lasers (although I made that last bit up).
several hands that were not holding weapons, skis,
etc. It’s not really relevant to this article but the On the other hand this was a working bike so
quality of these was dreadful, giving the there would be some dust and grime but it was
appearance of having been moulded in soft soap owned by a company that
and then left out in the rain for a while. Having would presumably want to
said that, I found a pair of hands that would just present a good image so it
about do. wouldn’t be battered and
worn or too filthy. I’d
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05-Blockade Runner_pp37-44_scififantasyModeller 07/09/2016 18:29 Page 37
VADE RUNNER
Jean-Marc Deschamps builds and accurises Randy Cooper’s Blockade Runner kit
THE ROLLING TITLE HAD JUST
DISAPPEARED AND A SPACESHIP
SUDDENLY STREAKED INTO MY
VISION, followed by a second
one, this even bigger than the
first. The flashes and laser
beams crossing between the two
ships made me so receptive that
those images are still burned
into my brain some forty years
later!
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A little history
The studio model of Princess
Leia’s ship, often referred to as
the Tantive IV or Blockade
Runner, began life as the
personal transport of Han Solo,
with the model being built big –
194cm long – but to a fairly
modest scale. Legend has it that
someone pointed out to Lucas
that the Runner looked
somewhat like the Eagle from
Space: 1999 (and ‘flew’ almost
like it too!) and as a result the
model was relegated to second
place and a new craft – the
legendary Millennium Falcon –
became the famous ship we all
know and love.
The kit
Randy’s kit is completely cast in
resin and measures almost 68cm
in length, making it 1/185 or
1/220 scale when compared to
the ‘real’ ship (125.6m or 150m
long, depending on the source).
Impressed when I received it,
the kit stayed in its box for
years until I decided it was time
it surrendered to me. On re-
inspecting the parts, I felt this
wouldn’t be the easiest of kits
I’d build but it was certainly one
of the most desirable. There is
not much to say about
comparative accuracy – the
model is three times smaller
than its studio counterpart, and
it was obvious that the details Top row: secondary reactor supports sawed to reduce angle.
on the original model wouldn’t Second row left: the side panels of the reactors during modification.
be perfectly reproduced, but the Second row right and third row left: assemblage of the engine section being tested and sanded
spirit of the ship has been fairly on a template.
well captured. The biggest Above right and next page top left: the new angled secondary reactor supports with handmade
problem with the build details.
concerned the engine block that
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05-Blockade Runner_pp37-44_scififantasyModeller 07/09/2016 18:29 Page 39
is so characteristic a feature of
the studio model – not only are
all eleven reactors cast from the
same master, but the secondary
supports are all on the same
plane. On the original model,
the four external supports are
angled, resulting in some
gracious lines that break up
what could otherwise have
proved to be a fairly dull rear
section.
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Step 4 : assembling
the fuselage
Creating something coherent
was not so simple because
thicknesses differed from part to
part. I had to grind the resin
until the parts aligned
themselves correctly around the
internal structure. An issue
occurred when I presented the
hammerhead cockpit
(assembled with an interior
cockpit painted at an early
stage, and including a
microscopic Star Wars poster!)
(part TBR) to the forward
fuselage. Here too the Dremel
was a real help in grinding the
Top left: red brown painted and weathered paper strips acting as ‘rings’ around the reactors. resin until the surfaces were
Top right and second row: the LEDs as they appeared before rods of Perspex helped diffuse their ready to be covered with Bondo
light (note: in the photo, second right, the ‘reactor’ at the right of the centre row has not got for a perfect transition between
the rod placed inside). the fuselage parts. But what a
lot of work…
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Step 6 : lighting
LEDs flash in the cockpit and
inside the reactors, but to create
a better lighting mood I asked
my friend Sylvain, who is a
fantastic professional modeller,
to cut me eleven perspex rods to
diffuse the lighting by hiding the
warm yellow LED bulbs (parts
XBR, YBR and ZBR). The
effect is convincing and recalls
the look in A New Hope.
Conclusion
This rebel ship was not easy to
track down and, as Lord Vader
would say, I am happy to have
put down the rebellion!
Modified, the model is quite a
good replica of the original that
Randy Cooper, a very fine
modeller, has captured with
great talent. However, this
model is one that should only be
attempted by accomplished
Jedi, not a Padawan, and,
during building, there were
times when I have to admit I
almost turned to the dark side
of the Force.
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06-AlphaBuilding_pp45-48_scififantasyModeller 07/09/2016 19:11 Page 45
Living-Space: 1999
Mike Reccia assembles Century Castings’ Moonbase Alpha Building kit
REGULAR READERS OF THIS TITLE MAY HAVE futuristic, convincing, unified look that is unique
GATHERED OVER THE YEARS THAT I HAVE A FONDNESS to this series and unlike anything else ever created
FOR MOST THINGS SPACE: 1999. That fondness not for an SF TV show.
only encompasses the sets, costumes and
spacecraft seen in the series, but also embraces the I was therefore delighted to recently receive a
look of Moonbase Alpha, both inside and out. Yes, review sample of Century Castings’ Alpha
I know the individual larger-scale Alpha building Building garage kit release. This is a large,
miniatures (as opposed to the large complete straightforward resin kit comprising of a detailed
Alpha model... featured in exclusive photography roof section, four walls, a circular part to add to
in our new Modelling: 1999 special, by the way!) the roof detailing, and some self-adhesive square
are comprised of little more than simple boxes silver ‘mirror’ labels with which to create the
with kit bits stuck on them, but they have a clean, illusion of windows.
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Studying shots of the studio miniatures I larger Alpha building miniatures (pure white is far
determined that many of them feature some form too bright). I then masked off random panels
of external ‘pipework’ on their front faces, so I around the walls and on the roof and oversprayed
selected a couple of suitable examples from Wild the masked areas with either light coats of grey or
House Models’ excellent resin pipe set – this white until I had contrast areas I felt happy with
presenting the modeller with a vast choice of pipes and which mimicked the look of the series
in various configurations, thicknesses and scales, miniatures.
perfect for use in a variety of figure dioramas and
also for enhancing kits such as this one – and In Space: 1999 Alpha’s buildings sport a variety
superglued them to appropriate locations on the of checkered line tapes, Sasco year planner
model. oblongs and triangles in various colours and
random decals across their surfaces, a trawl
Creating the Alpha look through the spares box providing me with close
Having first thoroughly cleansed each face of the matches for what could be seen on screen. These
building on a piece of kitchen towel dampened were duly applied to the building, then
with methylated spirits to remove any lingering oversprayed lightly with grey and white to knock
mould release agent, I sprayed the whole building them back and blend them into their surroundings.
in grey acrylic automotive filler/primer. This
allowed me to gently sand smooth any slightly Finally, the reflective window squares were
rough areas once dry, and also served as a perfect peeled from their backing sheets and applied to the
pre-shading base colour for the model. slightly raised locating squares set into the resin,
and the building was complete...
Humbrol Matt White was then sprayed lightly
onto the kit from a rattle can until I had a grey- All the model needed now was some appropriate
white base-coat that matched my reference of the surroundings to sit in...
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06-AlphaBuilding_pp45-48_scififantasyModeller 07/09/2016 19:12 Page 48
Therefore, by sanding off the slightly raised to be used in larger dioramas by giving each
window areas and substituting larger window building a different configuration.
stickers than those supplied (or cutting windows
into the resin and backing the holes with ...In short, if you have the room – plus a
transparent plasticard) the kit could be easily hankering for a large scale Moonbase Alpha
converted into a smaller Alpha building at a larger layout, of course – the possibilities are endless.
scale (if you get my drift) and thus also serve in
dioramas as a complement to larger-scale Alphan Review kit kindly supplied by Century Castings.
hardware. A variety of scratchbuilt ‘upper storeys’ For details email:
could also be added to it, as featured on certain of centurycastings2014@gmail.com
the series’ miniatures, allowing multiples of this kit or visit: centurycastings.co.uk
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07-Brian_pp49-54_scififantasyModeller 07/09/2016 19:24 Page 49
BRIAN JOHNSON’S NAME AND WORK NEED NO other one. We vied with each other to do the best
INTRODUCTION TO READERS OF THIS TITLE. Having shots! It is one reason we did pretty good effects
joined AP Films under Derek Meddings in 1961, work as both of us were competitive... We did help
Brian with initially as a model builder on Gerry Anderson’s each other too as we were good friends.’ He
Griffon, Supercar, Fireball XL5 and Stingray, Brian later subsequently left the by-then-renamed Century 21
HeavyLift Eagle became a second unit director on Thunderbirds. in 1966 to create special effects shots for Stanley
and Scorpion He recalls, ‘We had two Main Units at AP Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey.
concepts. Films/Century 21. Derek ran one and I did the
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This page:
prototype
Griffon
concepts.
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07-Brian_pp49-54_scififantasyModeller 07/09/2016 19:24 Page 54
Brian: I am coming to
the conclusion that a
website will be needed
and I am really not the
person to set that up.
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08-Gwent_pp55-59_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 15:13 Page 55
‘Tell me you’ve
seen something
like that before...’*
Building the new Space: 1999 Gwent kit from Zero G Models
Mike Reccia
ARGUABLY THE MOST IMAGINATIVE, STRIKING AND obtain realistic footage of the heavy model rolling
UNUSUAL OF ALL THE GUEST SPACECRAFT APPEARING across the miniature lunar landscapes during take-
IN TWO SEASONS OF SPACE: 1999, Delmer Powys off and touchdown sequences. At the end of
Plebus Gwent (to give the infernal machine its full filming, visual effects cameraman Nick Allder
title – it being named after its creator), or simply picked up the five-foot-wide model and, in
Gwent, is a fascinating design and an impressive frustration, threw it across the studio, destroying it
model. completely. The fourteen-inch version built for
distance shots happily survived.
Actually the craft was realised as two studio
miniatures by series model maker Martin Bower – The subject of this article is an ambitious new
one five feet in width and the other around 14-inch wide garage model kit based upon the
fourteen inches. Legend has it that the larger dimensions of the largest Gwent miniature. Next
motorised Gwent model filmed for The Infernal to no reference for this version remains, however,
Machine episode provided the least happy and so my finishing and detailing of this model
experience of the series for the Bray Studios-based would at a late stage in construction be centred on
effects crew during production. With its twin set of three shots of the smaller miniature which came to
rotating ‘paddles’ (incorporated into the design by light via the Internet (...and I’m sorry here but I
Bower as an homage to the spinning UFOs can’t give you an address to go to to view these as
featured in Gerry Anderson’s live action series of they were passed on to me via a friend, so I don’t
the same name) it proved extremely difficult to have the original connection to them).
*Sandra Benes to Kano, on spotting Gwent approaching Moonbase Alpha on the Main Mission big screen.
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1 2
3 4
5 6
7 8
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Opposite page: OK – let’s get to the build. This first resin around the other corner filled with P38 car body
1: parts line-up. offering from Zero G Models comprises a hollow filler and sanded down to a smooth finish.
2: rear plate added, body, a rectangular underside plate, two hub
recontoured, and collars, a back plate, pre-scored ‘sticks’ from The curved, raised sections that arch outwards
filled. which the ‘paddles’ must be cut, pre-cut brass from the rear of the top ridge to either side of the
3: recontoured left rods, two pre-drilled hub pieces, an inner ‘eye’ body were asymmetrical, so I smoothed in filler
hand curve on detail piece, a transparent plastic dome for the around the left hand curve and reshaped it with a
upper body. ‘eyeball’ and, finally, a black and white set of scalpel and sandpaper to more closely match the
4: underside front competently hand-illustrated instructions. The curve on the right. The two hub collars that
plate in place, filled, resin parts are nicely cast, though some (minimal) accommodate the paddle hubs were then
and hole drilled for flash, as can expected with most resin subjects, superglued to the sides of the body and any gaps
stand. needed to be removed and one or two slight between the joins filled and sanded back.
5: underside plate casting missteps smoothed and filled before
fitted and filled, assembly could begin. The most challenging part of any Gwent
rear plate fitted and recreation is always going to be the two complex
filled. The body has been purposely cast as a hollow paddle sections, and it was this aspect of the
6: paddles cut and piece to allow the more ambitious modeller to design I tackled next. The use of a small mitre box
fixed on one hub. install a motor to drive the paddle hubs. Being to is recommended in the instructions but, as I do not
7: black stripe in electronics what a frog is to brain surgery I own such a piece of kit (it’s definitely time I did),
place – back view. eschewed this route and chose to simply glue the and as time was, as ever, pressing to deliver this
8: black stripe in bottom panel in place, filling the resulting seam review, I simply used a razor saw to cut up the pre-
place – front view. with P38 car body filler and sanding it back to a scored pad ‘sticks’ into the 32 paddle components
smooth finish while still leaving a slight indent to required for the job (16 per hub). Not using a
This page: indicate a panel line. Knowing the piece would be mitre box inevitably meant that some of my cuts
9: paddles sprayed difficult to display without some kind of support I were not completely square, and so much filing
in blue and contrast also dug out a circular metal stand I’d bought ensued to square up the ends of each paddle.
panelling begun. many years ago when a local shop was closing
10: top cross- down, and which had been slowly rusting in the The locations for the brass rods that sit in the two
hatching stage one. cellar ever since. I felt Gwent would look suitably paddle hubs are pre-drilled, but the undersides of the
impressive in an ‘in-flight’ pose atop said stand, paddles themselves need drilling to accept the
and so scoured off as much of the rust as I could outermost ends of the rods. Hole positions were
from the stand, then primed it before spraying therefore marked in pencil, centrally across the width
with several coats of Humbrol Matt Black. A hole of each paddle and 26mm from one end, each hole
of the correct diameter was then drilled into the being hand-drilled with a pin vice approximately
underside of Gwent’s body to accommodate the 5mm deep as indicated in the instructions.
metal strut emanating from the stand’s base.
The brass rods were then secured into the hubs
The next step in construction was the two-part (these are a press fit as the holes are tight and deep
epoxying of the rear engine plate to the body. This enough to hold the rods securely once pushed into
action revealed that the body rear was not quite position) and the paddles superglued to their other
square and true, so the plate was attached to the ends. It should be noted that the paddles sit with
body at one corner only, squared up by eye whilst their longest length from the brass rod facing
the epoxy was setting, and the resulting gap outwards from the body. Some gentle bending of
9 10
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11 12
13 14
the brass rods was also necessary to allow the Gwent models appear to be mostly silver on 11: top section
paddles to line up and be spaced correctly in screen, but the images of the smaller miniature cross-hatching
groups of four. showed quite clearly that this was not the case. stage two.
Additionally, there was a wealth of detailing in the 12: top section
With both paddle assemblies together I sprayed form of stripes and panels of contrast colour to the cross-hatching
the two units with filler/primer then treated both edges and inner faces of the paddles, and many stage three.
the hubs and the body to a coat of Hycote Renault small details across the body, the look and feel of 13: contrast
Silver Grey automotive paint, which seemed an which I wanted to recreate as much as I could, as panelling front and
appropriate colour having repeatedly viewed Blu- I felt this extra detailing would add scale and centre inner detail
ray footage of the miniatures. The surface of the presence to the model. Finally, the top of the ridge in place - option 3.
body was slightly sanded down once dry and a section that runs from the body front back 14: underside
repeat coat of the Silver Grey sprayed on. towards the engine section could be clearly seen to detailing.
have been finished in a matt black, with there also
Painting and detailing being a black stripe running horizontally across
It was at this point that serendipity stepped in and the top front edge of the machine.
provided me with the three aforementioned shots
of the still existing fourteen-inch Gwent miniature. The ridge was therefore duly masked off and
On viewing these and closely studying an image of sprayed in Humbrol Matt Black. The images of the
the large miniature on the Space: 1999 Catacombs fourteen-inch miniature reveal some white-ish
website (catacombs.space1999.net/) it became panel lines running across this black section, and
apparent that a contrast mid-blue had been used these were recreated via the use of a ruler and a
not only for the panels to the front of the body, but silver pen. The top front edge of the body was also
also as the base colour in a kind of ‘cross-hatched’ masked and a thin black line sprayed on, this
panelling pattern to the top and bottom of the being softened with an overspray of the Silver
craft... and, indeed, across the upper faces of the Grey to mimic what I could see in the images as
paddles too. Strong studio lighting makes the closely as I could.
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The blue cross-hatched sections were tackled toning down the blue slightly with a light
next. These appear to be fairly roughly executed overspray of the Silver Grey.
on the smaller miniature and quite uneven
(understandable when working to the pressure of The two black oblong panels that sit centrally to
deadlines and knowing that a lot of this detailing the lower edges of the lowermost pair of blue
would be lost to studio lighting in long shots). I panels to the front of the machine were similarly
wanted to retain this rough feel yet tidy it up created from sprayed and cut down paper labels. I
slightly. I therefore first of all masked off the like using this method as it quickly allows you to
relevant sections and sprayed them with Hycote produce sharp-edged panels, with the slight white
Rover Pageant Mid Blue. Using a ruler and pencil edges of these in this case effectively mimicking the
I then drew out the cross-hatched panel lines, indented white-ish lines of the cut-in panels on the
keeping them even across the two sides of the original miniatures.
craft. Again using the ruler I then brushed MIG
Pigments Europe Earth weathering powder across Finishing touches
the panel lines and lightly shaded in some of the I love the new plastic bottles of metallic acrylic
panels using the brush freehand. When I was paint being produced by companies such as MIG
satisfied with the look I sealed and fixed the cross- Pigments at the moment. Several of these – Steel,
hatched sections with a spray coat of Humbrol Matt Aluminium, Platinum, Polished Metal, etc.
Satin Varnish. were applied with a brush to pick out various
raised details on the two hubs, giving a convincing
Having sprayed the two hub sections with the contrast-panelled look to the pieces.
Silver Grey I oversprayed with the Mid Blue from
a distance to create a subtle blue on the leading Detailing on the paddles was then created via a
edges of the panels. Primed white adhesive paper combination of decals from the spares box,
labels were also sprayed with the blue and the six painted adhesive paper labels, lines drawn on in
dominant blue panels on the front face of Gwent permanent fine-line pen and small sections of
were cut from these and applied to the model, paper label cut out and drawn on with the fine-line
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Conclusions
I had tremendous fun making this kit and the
end result has thus far been deemed ‘impressive’
by three separate sources upon viewing shots of
the finished model. Construction comes
together fairly quickly, the parts count is low,
and with time and patience this model can be
made up into a stunning representation of the
original. Zero G Models have chosen a complex
subject for their first release and have, for the
most part, pulled this off admirably. Some of the
angles are slightly asymmetrical, but these can
be fixed via a little work with filler and
sandpaper and are not noticeable once the
paddle sections are in place.
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09-Paragrafix Eagle upgrade_pp61-63_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 16:13 Page 61
3 4
S
I N C E I T S
RELEASE, MUCH
HAS BEEN
WRITTEN ABOUT THE
ROUND 2 EAGLE
TRANSPORTER
regarding the level 5 6
of detail and the
quality of the mouldings, all of which is true, and as nameplates for the finished model. (Photos 3-6.)
a fine replica can be built pretty much straight ParaGrafix sets fall into two categories: the first
from the box. However, even the best kits can are straightforward replacement parts which
sometimes benefit from upgrades to push the require only minimal removal of moulded details
detail beyond what is possible in injection to be used. The second require a more skilled
moulded styrene. approach from the builder and may need
We’ve already seen turned aluminium engine additional parts fabricating from scratch. The
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10 13
11 14
12 15
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The screen accurate doors are simple plant-ons are printed on the instructions. (Photo 26.)
(Photos 14-15.), whilst the larger doors are more The rest of the fret consists of straps designed to
three-dimensional. (Photos 16-19.) The corres- hold elements of the frame structure to the pods.
ponding doors are fitted to the end of the corridor These, too, can be augmented with bolts as
module. (Photos 20-21.) desired.
Another area to be improved is the linkages on Finally, and separate from the ParaGrafix set, I
the pod landing feet. This firstly requires some obtained some exquisitely-made aluminium sensor
radical surgery to the kit parts. (Photo dishes from Mike Reader in Canada (Photos 27-
22.) The etched parts are then folded 28.), who also offers engine and thruster sets (e-
and attached using more micro bolts mail: reader@mts.net).
(Photos 23-24.) – and they can be In summary, another fine set from ParaGrafix,
made to operate (Photo 25.). and one which will make an already great kit look
Etched frames are provided for both spectacular.
upper and lower windows with clear Thanks to Paul Bodensiek
16 sheet for the glass, templates for which at ParaGrafix for the sample.
17
22
28
18 23
24
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...THERE ARE CERTAIN DAYS WHEN YOU ARE of his head together. The likeness, as with the
REMINDED WHAT AN ABSOLUTE PLEASURE IT IS TO previous Batman and Catwoman kits released thus
MODEL SF AND FANTASY SUBJECTS, and just such a far in the series, is excellent, and a slight seam
day dawned recently when the latest release in the where the two parts meet was quickly banished via
’60s’ Batman Classic TV Series kit collection from a little light sanding. Next, Pengy’s top hat came
Moebius Models arrived at these offices in the together from brim and crown pieces, and both
form of an advanced injection plastic test shot of head and hat were put aside for priming and
Burgess Meredith as the Penguin. Initially painting later.
intending to hand it over to one of our hallowed
reviewers, I was so taken with the kit that I confess The torso front – reproducing the Penguin’s
to succumbing to a little avarice myself and, waistcoat/shirt collar combo, was first coated in
having stuck my beak into the parts provided, I grey auto primer, then overcoated with several
decided this build should fly no further than the light sprays of matt white, allowing the underlying
editor’s nest and that I should be the one to bag the grey to bleed through very faintly to pre-shade the
bird... (sorry – I’m afraid it’s highly likely there folds in the garment. Its buttons were then picked
will be a degree of this sort of thing at intervals as out with a brush in a semi-gloss white to contrast
this article unfolds). with the look of the ‘material’. The torso (tail coat)
back was primed and sprayed inside and out with
ASSEMBLY AND PAINTING: Humbrol Matt Black from a rattle can and glued
Following the pecking order to the torso front. The coat’s front panels were
The kit builds into a 1/8 scale action pose of the then similarly prepared in primer and Matt Black
Penguin stood atop a rocky outcrop base, grinning and glued to the back piece, framing the torso
with defiance as he lunges out with his trademark front, the fit of these being so good – with the
umbrella. The first stage in assembling him almost invisible seams following the natural side
according to the amusingly illustrated and wittily seams of the coat – that no paint touch-up was
worded instruction sheet is to glue the two halves required once front and back coat parts had been
glued together.
MODELLING
THE AVIAN
ARTISAN OF
AVARICE
Mike Reccia builds Moebius’ new kit
of a certain Mr. K. G. Bird
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spat areas and the straps that extend from these rocky texture of the piece before finishing off with
and loop under each shoe, and matt black for the a sealing coat of matt varnish. As I had snapped
leather areas. Once neatly finished the shoes were off a locating pin under one of the figure’s feet
sprayed with semi-gloss varnish and glued to the when test-fitting it I securely two-part epoxied the
legs. at-this-stage headless Penguin in position on the
base.
Similarly, each hand is a two part assembly, and
for these parts I reverted to the grey primer/white A choice of plumage
top-coat technique to give them form and add Two configurations of umbrella are supplied with
shadow to the Penguin’s white gloves. The handle the kit – a furled version and an open option that
of the umbrella built into the right hand was requires some assembly. This latter comprises of a
picked out in black and overcoated with slightly top (the central ‘spike’ had snapped off in transit
watered down light brown acrylic, allowing the and was untraceable so a replacement part was
black to bleed through faintly and hopefully mimic scratchbuilt and glued in place), eight individual
the look of a wooden handle. spokes, a central connecting hub part into which
these slot and a metal rod that slides through the
Arms halves were glued together next, trapping spoke arrangement and into the top-centre of the
the hands in place, slight seam lines eliminated via umbrella, which I had primed and sprayed in Matt
light sanding, and, with the hands masked off, the Black before adding the spokes. Assembling the
sub-assemblies were primed in white and sprayed delicate spokes proved to be the single most tricky
in Matt Black. The completed and painted arm aspect of the build and it took some time to
assemblies were then added to the torso. correctly align and glue them together and connect
them to the umbrella. The instructions show them
Flightless bird being glued to the umbrella as an already-built
At this stage the rocky base was primed, sprayed sub-assembly... I found it easier to glue one end of
in Humbrol Sand Yellow and various light and each spoke to the inside of the umbrella, then
dark pigments and washes applied to bring out the locate its other end at the correct angle into the
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central hub piece. Once the glue had set I brush example anatomically (much as the Catwoman kit
painted the primed spokes and their corresponding is supplied with two cat ‘statues’). The bird was
ribs inside the umbrella in MIG Pigments Steel. primed, brush painted in black and white and
Much tidying up around the spokes with matt positioned to the front of the base.
black and a fine brush ensued, and, once I was
satisfied that the assembly looked neat enough, I Finely feathered features
sprayed the completed umbrella with a unifying Of course, the quality of paint job applied to the
coat of satin varnish inside and out. face of any figure kit can make or break the entire
build. I had put off painting the face until last as
The single-piece furled version of the umbrella is I’m the first to admit that I’m a hardware builder
far easier to paint, only requiring, following a and painter first and a figure painter and builder
priming and top coating of Matt Black, the picking second. However, on this occasion I was feeling
out of a raised strap stud near the hilt in silver. slightly more confident than I usually am when
tackling a figure’s features as I felt some subtle use
The two umbrellas are interchangeable, each of weathering pigments might aid me in creating a
sliding into the handle in the figure’s right hand via convincing likeness.
a metal rod to give the Penguin as choice of
weapon configuration. I personally prefer the Having sprayed the face in the Fine Surface
opened version as it adds drama and scale to the Primer I therefore first brush painted it with a
figure. couple of light coats of Revell Matt Flesh 35 with
a dash of white added to slightly lighten the
Mini-me colour. Once thoroughly dry, and using a fine
A two-part ‘penguin’ (as in the actual bird, rather brush, I then worked Dark Star Orange Sand
than the actual villain) is also supplied with the Pigment into the various creases in the face,
kit. This, I think, replicates a ‘mechanical’ penguin lessening the intensity of the colour around the
seen in one of the episodes – the neck join line is outer edges of each crease and fold by removing
deliberate – and is not intended to resemble a live excess pigment with the brush until I arrived at
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what looked almost like an airbrushed blending of cigarette holder, this first having been primed, its
base colour and pigment tone. base picked out in black, the actual holder painted
in a light grey, the cigarette in white and the tip in
At this stage the features were fixed with a spray an ash grey.
of matt varnish and the eyes picked out in white
mixed with a little grey. The pupils were then ...Finished, my finny friends. Finished! Wark,
painted in in dark brown, the iris of each eye Wark, Wark!
drawn in with a permanent fine line pen, white
highlight pinpoints added and semi-gloss varnish Great fun, great likeness, great pose, near
brushed over the eyes to give them a slight sheen. perfect fit of all parts, generous helpings of
nostalgia. And, as with each kit in the series thus
The interior of the open mouth was coloured far, the base allows the figure to be grouped with
with a mixture of Dark Star Red Earth pigment the other subjects to eventually form a bat-shaped
and white, and the teeth framed in a grey-white ensemble diorama.
with the teeth themselves being highlighted in a
slightly off-white mix. The lips were a mix of the In short, loved it.
flesh colour plus a tiny amount of the Red Earth,
with the lower lip being lightly coated with a drop Better waddle off and
of satin varnish. The final move was to feather in buy one, Bat-fans.
the eyebrows using matt back
and a fine brush.
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on top of a black ink wash to bring out the detail, of polishing up clear polystyrene parts is the use of
which there was a great deal. Being a test shot of the metal polish wadding and paper kitchen towel but it
kit there were no decals and so I picked out various became clear (pun intended) that the handling
features in subtle shades whilst highlighting one or involved in this simple process was going to be a
two panels in a way that was anything but subtle. problem as the signs of stress began to manifest
I’d already examined the cockpit canopy and this themselves as cracks, be it ever tiny ones, and the loss
wasn’t quite as clear as I would have liked and of a tiny section of canopy but fortunately one that
showed signs of stress in a couple of areas due, no would be hidden by the framing. I therefore
doubt, to its bagged journey. My preferred method of abandoned my polishing, resolving to live with a
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slightly misty windscreen area. glued these, using a thinned PVA, to various
That reduced visibility was what led me to my less areas of the control panels and the cockpit’s
than subtle detailing of the cockpit. The technique side walls. These looked rather garish in the
here was simplicity itself. I took a section of full light of day but, with the canopy in
aluminium kitchen foil and brush-painted areas of it place, provided some interest without, I
in clear blue, green, yellow and red acrylic. When think, looking out of place.
these were dry I cut small rectangles and squares and With the paint now dry on the fuselage,
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Top left: contrast wings, etc. I carried out a further examination of using rubber bands, tape and even the odd drop of
colour to bays. Top the components, knowing that metallics bring out thin PVA. I remain unsure whether the alternative
right: rear engine
details that can be missed at the priming stage. All folded or flight mode wings are offered as a build
components. Centre
shots: fan in position I actually found were two small indentations on the option or whether the changes are intended to be an
and dry fitting doors. forward fuselage and these were soon filled using option once the model is completed. The latter may
Above left: lower Squadron putty. very well be an option and, whilst I’ve provided some
front fuselage. Above Next I returned to my pre-assembly dry fitting images of the alternatives in my ‘dry-run’ build
right: legs/missiles.
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stages, I went for the wings in flight version. Having six holes in each to match the positions of the gun
said that, I used PVA adhesive so that any future barrels. I also picked out some details on the guns
owner of the model could still have the choice of in a gunmetal blue.
wing position given some care in handling and a little There are a couple of further points worth
water to soften the glue. noting regarding this particular part of the model.
Further options applied to the undercarriage, Altogether four pieces are supplied with the kit to
underwing missile launchers and the main ducted fan join the gun section to the wings. The two I used
in the centre of the fuselage. This latter (I assume) slipped into matching slots in the wing tips and the
helps give the Batwing its VTOL and hovering gun assembly with the Batwing built with the
capability. In the interests of showing as much of wings extended. Two alternative joining pieces are
what you get with the kit as possible I went for open angled at about 17° and I assume this is to enable
duct and bay doors all round and the undercarriage the gun assembly to be presented in a slightly Below left: landing
down. folded manner on either of the wingtips when the legs and bomb
It was only within the bays and on the inside of the wings are similarly positioned. racks in place.
bay doors that I varied from my overall dark The gun assembly can have covers attached
gunmetal colour scheme. These I painted olive green above and below which, in the movie, fold away Below right:
for no other reason than a little contrast and the to some storage destination in the wings thanks to headlamps fitted.
possible suggestion that like so much ‘Bat-kit’, the the miracle of CGI.
Batwing might have a military origin. The penultimate parts to be fitted were the rear Bottom left: some
The two bomb bay doors were missing some parts, wings or spoilers which follow the line of the rear filling of seams was
which were shown on the exploded diagrams. Specif- fuselage and are very similar in shape to those on required.
ically, these were the four hinge sections which connect the Batmobile referred to earlier. Truth to tell, my
the doors to the lower fuselage and it was a simple mat- heart sank very slightly when I noticed these Bottom right: rear
ter to cut replacements from thin Evergreen plastic card. amongst the bagged kit parts, simply because their fuselage.
With the landing legs in place it was time to fit supporting lattice had been quite difficult to
the wing assemblies which, in addition to fitting assemble when building the car. In the event, these Opposite left:
the pre-installed wing roots, also sandwich the simply slotted into the fuselage of the Batwing. completed rear
mini-gun unit at the front of the wing. The latter Finally came the rear engines. These line up with engine section.
had been assembled and painted but I had the intakes in the wing roots but can swivel,
subjected it to a little customisation. The muzzles presumably to provide VTOL capabilities. The Opposite right:
of the guns were presented as flat circles and it assembly of these was very straightforward as they completed front
seemed worthwhile to spend a few minutes drilling were each supplied as two halves sandwiching weapons array.
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FEATURING IN THE VIDEO GAME BORDERLANDS, body together in sections (Photo 2). Poly Cement
CLAPTRAP IS A CL4P-TP GENERAL PURPOSE ROBOT on PVC foam board is a fantastic combination,
MANUFACTURED BY HYPERION. Having been only taking a few minutes to dry and forming a
programmed with an overenthusiastic personality, solid weld (Photo 3).
Claptrap brags frequently, yet can also express I cut the front mudguard out of some scrap FB
loneliness and fear... and, after a little trimming and shaping, glued this
onto the main body (Photo 4). The front vent took
Part One: The Build me a couple of attempts to get right as
...Being an old school gamer and a serious scratchbuilding louvres is always a bit fiddly
scratchbuild modeller I felt Claptrap would make (Photo 5) – especially with the spacing. Once I was
the perfect little project for me. Getting hold of happy with the spacings I added some small rivets
reference images is where all of my builds begin (Photo 6).
and proved fairly easy on this occasion as I simply As with all of my builds, Pete does all of the
grabbed some great screen shots whilst playing the painting and airbrushing so I always need to
game. consider this and make things easy to paint,
I began by setting out a especially when it comes to masking. With this in
cutting pattern on my CNC mind I decided to keep the vent panel seen in
and cutting the body out of Photos 7 and 8 removable. I added a couple of
2mm PVC foam board (FB) pieces of FB at the back so the vent could be slid
(Photo 1). Next, using my into place once it had been painted.
home-made gluing plate I now started to add the panelling detail around
(galvanised trunking with an the main body using 0.5 and 1mm styrene (Photos
MDF back) I glued the main 9-11). I cut a pair of wheel arches and secured
them on each side (Photos 12-14).
The fish eye lens was a bit of a head
scratcher but luckily I found a clear plastic
screw cap used for corrugated roofing
which, after a little trimming, proved to be
perfect for the job (Photo 15).
Making the lens tube was fairly
straightforward using various pieces
of styrene tubing (Photos 16-17). A
quick test of the LED followed (Photo
18) ...Wow, that’s a bit bright and
kinda like a laser …that’ll do nicely!
I made a simple lid from 5mm FB,
chamfering the edges and adding
a small sun visor
(Photo 19). After
adding the last few
bits of panelling on
the sides the main body was more or less
complete (Photos 20-22).
It was time to get started on the
arms. First I cut out some simple
ChatterBox!
Jason Hodgetts scratchbuilds the verbose Claptrap (CL4P-TP)
from the Borderlands video game. Paint by Pete Hutchings
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5 6 7
8 9 10 11 12 13
14 15 16
17 18 19 20
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69 70 71
72 73 74
1 2 3
4 5 6
Part Two: The Paint Job photoetch that would do the job nicely (Photo
With everything unpacked and on the bench the 2) and these were duly superglued in place
first thing to do was give all of the parts a couple (Photo 3).
of coats of primer. For this I used Gunze Mr.
Surfacer thinned with approximately 60% Next I added some shading around the edges
levelling thinners and airbrushed on (Photo 1— and in the recessed areas using a very dark grey
see red key). (Photos 4-5).
I have to admit that, while I have heard of For the base colour I sprayed Gunze H329
the video game Borderlands, I had know idea Yellow in multiple thin layers until I was happy
what a Claptrap was. Luckily, Jason had sent with the dethrone of shading showing through
me some screen grabs to use as a reference. It (Photos 6-10). To give a bit more tonal variation I
was while looking at these that I noticed there mixed the Yellow with a tiny drop of red (Photos
were some details I could add to the top of the 11-12) which was sprayed around the edges of the
model. A quick dig though my box of panels (Photos 13-18).
greeblies turned up a couple of bits of scrap
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10 11 12
13 14 15
16 17 18
19 20 21
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25 26 27
28 29 30
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77 78 79
81 82
83
A quick dry fit ensued at this stage to try and Onto the weathering of the Claptrap. For this I used
establish the angle of the Claptrap when it’s on its an 8B pencil, working a side at a time and building the
base (Photos 51-52). effect in layers rather than in one go. Matt varnish
was sprayed to seal the graphite after each pass as it
There are two small recessed panels on the front can get messy otherwise (Photos 63-74).
and these are lights on the in-game version. I stuck
on masking tape and cut it to size (Photo 53). This I wanted to add the effect of dust thrown up
was then transferred to clear acetate. For the around the bottom of the Claptrap by its wheel so
bottom light I used a piece of mesh as a mask and picked out some suitable shades (Photo 75). I
then sprayed clear blue. The mask was removed sprayed these, heavily thinned at first, in random
and the lens sprayed white. mixes and at the end with a thicker mix from a
distance to give a dusty look, not forgetting the
The top light was painted clear red and a small area wheels and suspension (Photos 76-82).
in the centre in white... (Photos 54-55) and I was
pleasantly surprised by the result (Photos 56-58). The arms had a few areas painted in Vallejo
Modelair Silver, applied by brushing the wire
As the finished piece will be heavily weathered I picked out with Vallejo Red and Yellow (Photo
needed to do something to the base to make it 83). To finish up I masked the tread plate on the
match, so over the aluminium base coat I sprayed base and sprayed the edges with black followed by
Alclad Jet Exhaust in a light, random, cloudy a couple of heavy coats of clear gloss (see final
pattern. Photos).
Vallejo Rust Wash was then applied heavily with ...This was another fantastic build by Jason and
a large brush and quickly wiped away with a cloth was an absolute blast to paint.
(Photos 59-62). Pete.
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www.resinfromspace.com
85 |
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Wonder Woman
Again from Batman v Superman: Dawn of
Justice, Moebius’ new 1/8 scale resin kit of
Wonder Woman stands 10" tall.
Michael Myers
From John Carpenter’s Halloween,
this 1/8 scale styrene release is a
reissue of the kit previously produced
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online at: round2corp.com!
TM, & © 2016 CBS Studios Inc. STAR TREK and related marks and logos are trademarks of CBS Studios Inc. All rights reserved. Polar Lights and design and Round 2 and design are trademarks of Round 2, LLC. © 2016 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. Product and packaging designed in the USA. Made in China. All rights reserved.
14-Hulk Smash_pp88-98_scififantasyModeller 08/09/2016 16:18 Page 88
Hulk
Smash!
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inner pages pp2 and 99_scififantasyModeller 06/11/2015 15:12 Page 99
copyright © 2016
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£14.95
ISBN: 978-0-9930320-8-0
9 780993 032080