Anda di halaman 1dari 160

Animal friends of Pica Pau

Gather all 20 colorful amigurumi animal characters

© 2017 Yan Schenkel and Meteoor Books

First published November 2017 by


Meteoor Books, Antwerp, Belgium
www.meteoorbooks.com
hello@meteoorbooks.com

Have you made characters with patterns from this


book? Share your creations on Facebook or
Instagram with #animalfriendsofpicapau.

Photography: Yan Schenkel & Matías Gorostegui


Illustrations: Yan Schenkel
Editorial Design & Layout: Bosque Estudio
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

PLEASE NOTE THIS BOOK IS COPYRIGHTED.

TENGA EN CUENTA QUE ESTE LIBRO ESTÁ


PROTEGIDO POR DERECHOS DE AUTOR.

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored


in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by
any means without the prior written permission of
the publisher and copyright owner.

The book is sold subject to the condition that all


designs are copyright and are not for commercial or
educational reproduction without the permission of
the designer and copyright owner.

The publisher and authors can accept no legal


responsibility for any consequences arising from
the application of information, advice or instructions
given in this publication.
YAN SCHENKEL

ANIMAL FRIENDS OF
INDEX
6 INTRODUCTION 30 Start from a foundation chain
31 06 Bobble stitch (abbreviation: 3-dc bobble or 5-dc-bobble)
10 TOOLS AND SUPPLIES 33 07 Single rib crochet (post or relief stitch)
35 Increases and decreases
10 Crochet hook 35 Increase (abbreviation: inc)
12 Anatomy of a crochet hook 36 Decrease (abbreviation: dec)
12 Sizes 36 Traditional decrease
12 Crochet hook conversions 37 Invisible decrease
13 Materials 38 Working in spirals
38 Magic ring
13 Yarns 40 Crocheting around a foundation chain
13 Natural fibers 43 Changing color and joining yarn
13 Cellulose fibers 44 Jacquard
13 Protein fibers 45 Tapestry
14 Synthetic fibers 46 Fastening off
14 Fiber weight 46 Weave in the yarn end on a flat fabric
46 Weave in the yarn end on a stuffed piece
16 Other essential tools and supplies 47 Embroidery
16 Yarn needles and tapestry needles 48 Joining parts (sewing)
16 Pins 48 Joining open pieces
16 Scissors 50 Joining an open end piece with a closed piece
17 Stitch markers
17 Stuffing 51 Reading a pattern
17 Facial features 51 Parentheses and brackets
53 Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
When crocheting my patterns
18 CROCHET INTRODUCTION
54 PATTERNS
18 Hold the hook and yarn
(hand position) 56 Pedro Von Dito Pig
19 Pencil grip 62 Hans Grizzly Bear
19 Knife grip 66 Murray Sea Otter
19 Hold the yarn 70 René Yacaré Caiman
74 Ramón Donkey
19 Stitches 80 Lola Panda
20 Slip knot 84 Rosa Cheetah
21 01 Chain stitch (abbreviation: ch) 90 Víctor Frog
21 Foundation chain 96 George McPlatypus
21 Turning chain 102 Marcos Coatí
22 Counting stitches 106 Audrey Gazelle
22 Insert the hook (placement of stitches) 110 Harry Wolf
23 02 Slip stitch (abbreviation: slst) 114 Hector Rhinoceros
23 Join a chain ring with a slip stitch 120 Charles Woodpecker
(tubular foundation chain) 124 Bonny Puffin
24 03 Single crochet (abbreviation: sc) 128 Hugo Bat
24 In rows (flat fabric) 134 Marcia Alpaca
26 In a spiral (a tube) 142 Daniel Jack Russell
27 Difference between v and x single crochet 146 Robin Unicorn
28 04 Half double crochet (abbreviation: hdc) 152 Gertrude Dragon
28 Start from a foundation chain
30 05 Double crochet (abbreviation: dc) 159 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INTRODUCTION
Crochet, books and a lot of crazy ideas.

Naturally, I wasn’t born knowing how to crochet, nor was I lucky enough to grow up in the Internet era.
But let’s just say I was a bit lucky. I spent my childhood surrounded by threads, yarns, needles, hooks and
boxes full of marvelous things. My mother, Brazilian, used to do all the crafty activities that she could find;
it was the late 80’s and the early 90’s and, oh, surprise: the crafty hip was almost the same as now (but
without Pinterest)!

She used to sew, knit, weave looms … and even weave baskets. She also crocheted a little, but only lace
edgings that she put in absolutely every towel we had in the house. My mother used to do many things, but
she never had the patience to teach. And I couldn’t sit still for a second if I was eager to learn something
new. I would draw – steal – threads, wool and needles to try and imitate what she was doing. And I loved to
choose colors, combine them and make color palettes for future projects … that never saw the light of day,
but I enjoyed imagining them so much that I needed nothing more.

Until one day, I suppose tired of my insistence and the increasingly evident absence of her knitting and
weaving materials, my mother let me rummage through her precious magazines and books. And I got lost
in their fascinating drawings, indecipherable magical texts and the thousand marvels that could be made
with needles and threads. With a lot of perseverance and an important level of stubbornness, I finally
learned to knit with those incredible books. But I didn’t learn how to crochet, an activity that for me only
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

served to decorate little, uninteresting things in the house – mom and grandmother things.

Several years passed before I had a crochet hook in my hands for the first time. I was attending Fine Arts
and had a friend who used to crochet handbags between courses. For the first time I saw crochet as a
technique worth learning. But, in order not to betray my fate, my friend also didn’t have the patience to
teach. So I went back to my mother’s books, this time looking for the part I’d always avoided: the intricate
drawings of those impossible knots with French names and applications of questionable taste. So, trying
to understand those quasi-hieroglyphs with a lot of perseverance (over-stubbornness, again), I learned to
crochet. I made a few bags back then, but never really “loved” crochet per se, so I practically crocheted
only to pass the time, crocheting and unravelling to start crocheting again. I know, it’s hard to believe, but
we didn’t always have Internet and smartphones.

One day I was knitting a scarf for my first child and ran out of wool. As the scarf came out too short,
I crocheted something like a bear-shaped button. And that was my first crocheted toy. And, oh, fortunate
me, I found what I loved to crochet: animal toys!
A few years later, that hobby, slowly and without intention, became my full-time job, my profession. Crazy
as it sounded to me (and still does), I became a professional crocheter, a character designer and toy maker.
And if that wasn’t incredible enough, 6 years after I started crocheting toys, I was writing my first book.

I finished writing “El mundo de Pica Pau” in Spanish, my native language, early in 2015. Making that first
book was kind of a crazy idea, my way of closing a long chapter that had begun with my first crocheted toys
in 2009, and it was certainly the most incredible, challenging, stressful and rewarding experience

6
of my whole working life. If you love books as much as I do, you’ll probably have no difficulties understanding
what I mean. Writing a book (even a crocheted toys book) is kind of a BIG deal, and I couldn’t be happier.

As it always happens in life, a couple of months after the book was released, I experienced a few bumps in
the road. Nothing too catastrophic (although they felt that way at the time), but enough to leave me with a
bad taste in my mouth and a knot in my throat.
Luckily, as it also happens in life, time passed by and the bad experiences became the engine of new ideas,
transformed into that push that we often need to get through life.

So, one year later, I decided that it was time to begin a new chapter: I chose a pair of my favorite notebooks,
grabbed my pencils and started to draw the new characters for my next book.
Three notebooks, two sketchbooks and more than 60 prototypes later, another crazy idea became reality:
the book you are reading right now. Unlike my previous book which presented toys that I had been crocheting
for years, the 20 characters in this book are brand-new, fresh from the oven and especially made for you
to crochet. And, although they are as new to you as they are to me, they’re definitely closer to what I would
have loved to crochet from the beginning, 9 years ago. They’re my 20 favorite new animal friends!

In this book you’ll find some classic animals of the crocheted toys world, like the pig, the panda and the
grizzly bear, but I tried to give as much space as possible to other creatures not so well-known but equally,
or even more, adorable.

You’ll have the chance to meet animals you’ve probably never heard of before, like the coati, a South American
raccoon relative. You’ll also find some animals who are a little more known, but who’re not the most common
choice when it comes to crocheted toys, such as the gazelle, the puffin or the bat. And, finally, the not-so-real
animals, those mythological, fantastic animals (hello, J.K. Rowling!) like the unicorn, the dragon and the platypus
… Ok, the last one is real, but he could make it to the fantastic animal podium without any effort.

If you are new to crochet or if you feel like refreshing some techniques, you’ll find a fairly broad introduction
with plenty step-by-step pictures on the basics of crochet. It’s almost impossible to condense all the know­-
ledge about crocheting toys in a little more than 50 pages, but I hope you can use this intro as a guide, as a
compass to navigate through the enormous and vast territory that is the universe of crochet tutorials on
the Internet.

And you will read a thousand times about me saying that there are no hard rules about stitches or tech-
niques, or anything in fact, at least crochet-related. In other words, I’ll show you my way of making toys,
my tricks … and some questionable acquired habits: I hold the hook like a knife (which looks pretty ugly in
the pictures), I make some stitches in a unconventional way, I prefer to sew snouts before stuffing the toy’s
body and I can’t get used to the “invisible” decrease. But that’s me. You could always find another way to
achieve the same – or better – results.

I sincerely hope you enjoy making these toys as much as I do, because I can’t wait to see all my characters
brought to life by each one of you.

So grab the hook and get started!

7
This book is dedicated to all the people fighting Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

obstacles to make their crazy ideas come true.

8
9
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

One of the most interesting things about crochet is the fact that a hook and a strand of yarn are
all you need to start working.
If you have been crocheting for years, or have the incredible fortune of having someone who
crochets in the family, it’s more than likely that you have in your possession a case filled with
hooks and needles, in various sizes and from different origins.
If you started recently, and you have crocheted everything you can find on the Internet, in
magazines and books, it’s almost sure that you have a cute and fancy set of pastel rubber handle
hooks, in all the possible sizes.
And if you are one of those who is about to try crochet for the first time and never had a hook in
your hands, don’t be afraid! Next, you will find an essential guide to diving into the fantastic
universe of hooks, threads and other supplies.
Always remember that high quality hooks and yarns can save you hours of frustration.
Hooks and needles do have the habit of getting lost, so make sure you always have a backup,
especially of the ones you love and use all the time (I have about ten backups of my favorite hook,
perhaps a little too much).

CROCHET HOOK
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Crochet is a technique for creating fabric by interlocking loops of threads worked into a chain
using a thin rod with a hook at the end: the crochet hook. In fact, the term crochet is derived from
French and means “small hook.”
Although we can make the same movement without the crochet hook (as the fisherman does with
his nets or when we make superchunky blankets with our hands), we’ll need this small hook if we
want to crochet a toy that a child can hold in his or her hands.
When selecting a hook, apart from size you must consider how comfortable it is for you to hold.
In my case, as I hold the hook like a knife (see page 19), I prefer to use crochet hooks without an
ergonomic handle, since they can feel a bit uncomfortable in my hand.

Don’t be overwhelmed by the variety of choice. I started crocheting with an inherited / stolen
hook from my mom, and I kept making toys with that 2.75 mm stainless steel hook for years. Until
one day, after giving me a whole world of characters, it broke in two pieces. The hook passed to
its well-deserved resting place, although my nostalgia led me to keep it. Then came others. All
2.75 stainless steel.
The important advice from this story? I believe it’s best to try one before you order an expensive
set of hooks. Hooks are like pens: we can write with any one until we find that one that changes
our lives. Exaggerating? A little bit, maybe. It does not change our lives, but with a good pen our
handwriting comes out like dancing on the surface of the paper. And we’d love to be writing all day
long. The same goes for hooks and crochet.

10
11
ANATOMY OF A CROCHET HOOK

Point: This is the end of the hook that you insert into the stitches. I like the rounded ones, so they slide easily through
the stitches. Also, you have to make sure they are blunt enough, so they don’t split the yarn. Although my favorite
crochet hook has a blunt tip, I cannot avoid stabbing my left index finger by accident. That’s why you might once in a
while see a picture with my finger wrapped in scotch tape.
Throat: This part does the actual hooking (catching) of the yarn and allows you to pull it through the stitches and loops.
Shaft: This part holds the loops that you are working with. Its diameter determines the size of the stitches, and is the
actual size of the hook.
Thumb rest: This is the flat part where you place your thumb and middle or index finger to hold the hook. Some
ergonomic and larger hooks don’t have this flat section.
Handle: Actually, we don’t hold the hook by the handle, but it’s used for balance and leverage. You can find a wide
variety of coverings for the handle, for ergonomic reasons or embellishment.

SIZES

Hook sizes are indicated using different, land-specific systems, drawing on either numbers or letters or a combi­
nation of both. Below you can find the three most common systems in use: the metric system, the UK system and
the US system.
As a basic guide, the thicker the thread, the bigger the hook and larger the stitch. If you crochet loosely, use a smaller
hook to tighten your crochet fabric, and if you crochet tightly, use a larger hook to loosen your fabric. The hook size
should be what’s comfortable for you to use to obtain the desired result. It’s easier to change the size of the hook than
to modify the tension (we tend to have a “natural” tension when we crochet).
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

CROCHET HOOK CONVERSIONS

METRIC UK US
2 mm 14 -
2.25 mm 13 B/1
2.5 mm 12 -
2.75 mm - C/2
3 mm 11 -
3.25 mm 10 D/3
3.5 mm 9 E/4
3.75 mm - F/5
4 mm 8 G/6
4.5 mm 7 7
5 mm 6 H/8
5.5 mm 5 I/9
6 mm 4 J/10
6.5 mm 3 K/10.5
7 mm 2 -
8 mm 0 L/11
9 mm 00 M/13
10 mm 000 N/15

12
MATERIALS NATURAL FIBERS

Formerly, hooks were made of bone, glass Bakelite and Cellulose fibers
even ivory (thankfully, the last ones are no longer made), These are the threads composed of vegetable fibers,
with impressively adorned handgrips in the shape of plants. Among the most common are cotton, flax, jute,
animals or floral motifs. Nowadays, steel, aluminum, rayon and hemp, but you can also get fiber from banana
plastic, bamboo and wood are the most used materials. trees, pineapple plants, palm trees, bamboo plants, etc.
Stainless steel: Traditionally, crochet hooks were lace
hooks. Almost all hooks under 2.00 mm are made of steel Cotton is probably the most used thread for crochet and,
for its strength. The smaller ones, up to 0.35 mm, are in my opinion, the one that gives the best results when
used only for lace threads. The larger ones, between 2.0 crocheting a toy.
and 3.5 mm, are excellent for crocheting amigurumi with This thread has practically no elasticity, which is some-
sport or light worsted (DK) weight yarn. thing you definitely want when making toys (so it keeps
Aluminum: These hooks slip easily between stitches. its shape). In addition to being a hypoallergenic material,
The aluminum ones have the widest range of sizes and cotton is extremely durable and also very soft, and color
are suitable for all types of yarn. They’re the most com- choices abound!
mon choice because of their strength, lighter weight and The downside is that the hook may not slide easily
durability. Beware when choosing thinner aluminum (because it’s not very elastic) and, sometimes, as the
hooks (less than 4 mm) or of dubious quality, because cotton is constituted by several strands, the thread
they tend to bend if you apply some pressure (which can be frayed by the hook. Another drawback of cotton
happens a lot when crocheting toys). is that cotton plantations are regrettably one of the
Wood / Bamboo: These hooks are beautiful and super- main users of pesticides in the world. Ideally, it’d be
decorative, but I only recommend them to work with best if we can get organic cotton to work with.
thicker yarns. The good ones usually come from 4 mm You can find cotton threads in a variety of presentations,
and they are very light and excellent for working worsted from “rustic” ones, over opaque ones and more eco-
and bulky weight yarns. Poor quality ones are likely to nomical choices, to mercerized cottons, with threads
have a rough finish, so they do not slip well and tend to that were treated to obtain strength, giving them a shiny
break easily. appearance.
Plastic / Acrylic: These hooks are used to work thicker
materials such as T-shirt yarn, sheep’s wool roving, etc. Protein fibers
These are the ones that come from animals. Based on
YARNS keratin (animal hair), like sheep’s wool, alpaca, angora,
mohair, or insect secretions, like silk.
Traditionally, crochet was worked only with very fine These yarns can be found pure or in mixtures (of different
cotton yarns specially made for this craft, and intended wools, with acrylic or cotton, and in various proportions).
to produce table cloths, doilies, decorative elements, etc.
However, we can use almost any material that can be Wools tend to be more elastic than the yarns of vegetal
worked into a thread: wool, cotton, string, ribbon, fabric, origin, and much warmer, besides coming in a generous
leather, wire, even plastic bags or paper. diversity of textures. Beginners should avoid the hairiest
Each kind of thread has its pros and cons. Allow yourself ones (like angora and mohair) because the furry texture
to have the incredible experience of experimenting with hides the structure of the fabric, making it harder to
different materials. It’s the best way to learn and find know where to insert the hook.
what you like most and is most suitable for your purpose. It’s also important to note that lanolin, present in almost
Of course, it’s always recommendable to keep the intended all wool, can cause allergy. The only animal yarn that is
use of the finished product in mind (crocheting a wire toy hypoallergenic is the one from alpacas. Supersoft, dura-
for a baby may not be the best choice). ble and silky, but superexpensive (as alpacas can only be
sheared once every three years).

13
SYNTHETIC FIBERS

Acrylics and nylon can be similar in texture to animal yarns, but they’re less durable. Although they’re cheaper
and slip in the hook nicely, they tend to encapsulate (produce little balls on its surface). Nevertheless, it’s one of the
most chosen yarns to make toys because of its incredible range of colors. I myself am not such a big fan of its glossy
texture finish, but, like everything in life, it’s a matter of taste.

FIBER WEIGHT

The yarn’s weight is its thickness, in other words the relationship between the weight and the number of meters.
Usually, the type of yarn used to crochet toys is between 400 and 200 meters per 100 grams.
Internationally, most books and yarn manufacturers rely on standard terms to indicate yarn weight, the number
of strands/ PLY is mentioned optionally.
Unfortunately, these standard terms are practically unknown in my home country Argentina and other Spanish-
speaking countries, and we usually refer to them only as “thin,” “medium” and “thick.”

The following chart was made using information of the Craft Yarn Council, and is the standard for crocheting
garments.

TYPES OF YARN RECOMMENDED


NUMBER NAME PLY m/100 gr
IN CATEGORY Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
CROCHET HOOK SIZE (mm)
600-800
0 Lace Fingering 1-2 ply 1.5 - 2.5
or more

1 Super Fine Sock, Fingering, Baby 3-4 ply 350-600 2.25 - 3.5

2 Fine Sport, Baby 5 ply 250-350 3.5 - 4.5

DK (double knitting),
3 Light Light Worsted 8 ply 200-250 4.5 - 5.5

Worsted, Afghan,
4 Medium 10-12 ply 120-200 5.5 - 6.5
Aran

5 Bulky Chunky, Craft, Rug 12-16 ply 100-130 6.5 - 9

6 Super Bulky Super Bulky, Super Less than 9 and larger


Chunky, Roving 100

7 Jumbo Jumbo, Roving Less than 15 and larger


100

14
15
The yarn weight and the hook should always relate to each other. However, and most importantly, always keep in
mind that when making toys, you’ll have to use a hook two or three sizes smaller than what is recommended for
crocheting a garment. After all, we want a dense fabric that won’t allow the stuffing to show through.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

OTHER ESSENTIAL TOOLS AND SUPPLIES Pins

Yarn needles and tapestry needles Try to get plastic or glass-headed pins. They’re easy to
see, and their large head prevents them from slipping
Used for joining motifs, sewing and finishing pieces. through the stitches.
They have a blunt tip, so you don’t split the thread or the
crochet stitches. They also have a large eye that allows Scissors
thicker yarns to pass through. They’re available in
various lengths and sizes, straight and with a bend end. I kind of have a thing for scissors, so I have quite a
Choose one suitable for the thickness of the yarn you’re bunch of them, in different sizes and shapes.
using. I use number 16 or 18. The best for this kind of craft are the small, lightweight
scissors with sharp points. You’ll be using the scissors
regularly, so choose a good, sharp pair.

16
Stitch markers Try to insert small amounts at a time, adding more at a
slow pace until you get the right look.
As the name suggests, this is a tool used to mark a stitch.
You can find them in a variety of shapes and qualities. Facial features
Alternatively, you can use paper clips, safety pins or hair
clips to help you indicate the round, row or any location There are a great variety of extra elements to decorate
on the worked piece. crocheted toys: plastic eyes and noses in all colors and
When crocheting in rounds, always mark the first (or the sizes, buttons, bows, ribbons, etc. For my characters,
last) stitch of the previous round. I only use plastic eyes. These safety eyes have two parts:
the front with a straight or threaded rod, plus a washer
Stuffing that goes inside the toy. If it’s fastened correctly, it’s
practically impossible to remove. If you’re afraid that a
I always use polyester fiberfill, the same filling used to child’s tenacity can pull them out (especially if children
stuff cushions. It’s easy to find in any craft shop, and it’s are under the age of three), you can apply universal glue
inexpensive, washable and hypoallergenic. before placing them on the toy (be careful that the eye is
Stuffing a toy can be trickier than it seems: overstuffing where you want it to be before attaching it!).
might stretch the fabric and show through. Too little On the other hand, features can also be embroidered for
stuffing gives the toy a sad look, as if the poor thing was safety.
deflated.

17
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

CROCHET INTRODUCTION

Hold the hook and yarn (hand position)

In many years of teaching, I’ve seen almost as many


ways of holding the hook and yarn as students.
Usually, we handle the hook with the same hand we
use to write, but it’s not a rule. If you take it with your
right hand, you will crochet from right to left (except
with a chain stitch and a crab or reverse single
crochet stitch).
Holding a new tool can be a little tricky. You probably
don’t remember the first time you held a pencil or a
knife, but I’m sure you can manage pretty well with
those tools right now. The same goes for a crochet
hook. There are no hard rules and there’s no “best
way” to hold this tool.
If you already know how to crochet and you feel
comfortable with it, keep going!
If you’re learning, try as many ways as you like, so
you can find the one most suitable for you.

18
Knife grip

Hold the hook in the same manner as you would hold


a knife, grasping it between your thumb and index
finger, resting the end of the hook against your palm.

Pencil grip

Hold the hook as you would a pencil, grasping the


hook between your thumb and index finger, in the
middle of the flat section (the thumb rest).

Hold THE yarn

The free hand is used to control the thread and hold the work. There are several methods to hold the yarn, and every-
one has his or her preferred way. For example, you can weave the yarn through your fingers or just place the thread
between your palm and two or three fingers. You only have to keep in mind that you have to maintain a steady tension
while crocheting.
Holding the hook may seem awkward at first, but holding the yarn is the real deal: you will need to practice to control
the thread and make the tension feel comfortable and natural. Also, it’s important to keep this hand “in shape”,
because it’s the one that is going to be stressed. Try to exercise before and after crocheting. I know it sounds almost
impossible but, please, try not to crochet too many hours in a row!

STITCHES

There are only a few basic stitches and although the variations and combinations are endless, we’ll only need to
master a few.
All crochet stitches are made from the combination of two or three of these movements:
– Wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook (yarn over).
– Insert the hook into the stitch.
– Draw the yarn through one or more loops on the hook.
There are several methods to make the basic crochet stitches. In this book, I will explain the ones that I learned
throughout the years and still use.
But remember that, as in almost any craft, there’s no strict manual of rules and you can (and should) adapt the
techniques to your needs and possibilities.

19
Slip knot

Almost all crochet works begin with this knot. The slip
knot is the first loop you’ll need to make on your hook.

1  Make a loop shape with the tail end of the yarn.


2  Insert the hook into it and draw another loop through it.
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
3  Pull the yarn tail to tighten the loop around the hook.

The slip knot does not count as a stitch.


I usually make another knot … Yes, another knot to
secure the slip knot.

20
01 Chain stitch (abbreviation: ch)

This stitch is the basis for most crochet works: if you are working in rows, your first row will (almost) always be
chain stitches, known as a foundation chain. It is also used to join motifs and as a turning stitch.

1  Holding the slip knot, wrap the yarn from back


to front around the hook. This movement is called
yarn over. You can wind the yarn over the hook or
twist the hook to go under the yarn.
2  Draw the hook backward to pull the yarn
through the loop on the hook (the slip knot).
3  You will form a new loop, which is your first
chain stitch.

Repeat the previous steps to form as many chain


stitches as required.

Note: It’s crucial to hold the work firmly to prevent


it from spinning around the hook every time you try
to yarn over. Turning chain
When crocheting in rows, these are the chain stitches
Foundation chain you have to make in order to move to the beginning
This is the string of chain stitches you have to position. You do this to bring the hook up to the height
crochet if you want to make a flat fabric worked of the stitches you are crocheting. Each stitch has a
in rows. It’s the equivalent of casting on when you corresponding number of turning chains:
start knitting. – a row of single crochet: 1 turning chain
– a row of half double crochet: 2 turning chains
Note: To help maintain an even foundation – a row of double crochet: 3 turning chains
chain, keep changing your grip on the crocheted
chains, so you are always holding them near Note: When you work half double crochet or longer
the hook. stitches, the turning chain counts as the first stitch.

21
Counting stitches

Counting stitches will help you ensure that you are following the pattern correctly.
When counting stitches, do not count the slip knot or the loop on the hook (this is the working loop). The easiest
way to count stitches is to look at the plaited tops. Remember to count your stitches now and then to make sure
you have the number of stitches required in the pattern.

Note: Every stitch looks like a V from the top. With time, you will be able to count stitches from every angle!

1
2
3
1
4 2
5 3
6 4
7 5
6
8

Insert the hook (placement of stitches) Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

With the exception of chains, for all crochet stitches the hook needs to be inserted into existing stitches. Inserting
the hook is the movement you make with the hook, taking it, from front to back, through a stitch. The point of the
hook must always be looking down or sideways, so the hook doesn’t snag the yarn or the fabric. When picking up
stitches, you can insert the hook in three different places: the back loop, the front loop or under both loops.

1  BOTH LOOPS: put the hook through both loops of 2  FRONT LOOP ONLY (ABBREVIATION FLO): Insert
the stitch in the row or round below. This is the most the hook under the one loop closest to you.
common way to crochet and the preferred method
when the pattern doesn’t specify another way.

22
3  BACK LOOP ONLY (ABBREVIATION BLO): Insert
the hook under the one loop furthest away from
you. This leaves the front loop as a horizontal bar.
It’s used for aesthetic effects or to re-join the yarn.

02 SLIP STITCH (abbreviation: slst)

This stitch has no height and is hardly ever used on its own to make a crochet fabric. Instead, it’s generally
used to join ends into a circle, join pieces, finish a piece and move across the stitches to another part of the
work (usually in crochet motifs like doilies or granny squares).

1  Insert the hook through both loops of the next


stitch (on the foundation chain: insert in second
chain from the hook).
2  Yarn over the hook and draw through both loops
at once.

Note: When working slip stitches in the last round


or row to finish or embellish a piece, try to work the
stitches a little loosely to avoid puckering the fabric.

JOIN A CHAIN RING WITH A SLIP STITCH


(tubular foundation chain)

1  Insert the hook into the first chain.


2  Yarn over and draw the yarn through both loops
on the hook at once.

23
03 Single crochet (abbreviation: sc)

The single crochet is THE stitch for working crocheted toys because it’s the only one that results in closed and tight
fabric. The single crochet not only works excellently to maintain the shape of the toy, but also avoids that stuffing will
show through (as long as we don’t fill it too much).

In rows (flat fabric) 6  One loop remains on the hook, and you have
Start from a foundation chain. completed one single crochet stitch.
1  Insert the hook in the second chain stitch from 7  Insert the hook into the next stitch and continue
the hook. crocheting into every chain stitch.
2  Yarn over the hook. 8  At the end of the row, make one turning chain
3  Pull the yarn through the chain stitch. Now you and turn the work to begin the next row.
have two loops on the hook. 9  Crochet one single crochet stitch into the next
4  Yarn over the hook again. stitch (not counting the turning chain), inserting the
5  Draw the hook backward to pull the yarn hook through both loops of the stitch in the row below.
through both loops at once. 10  Continue crocheting until the end of the row
and repeat.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

24
Note: When crocheting in rows, it doesn’t matter
if you chain and turn or turn and chain, but be
consistent with the way you turn your work along.

25
In a spiral (a tube) 4 Work a single crochet into the first single crochet
Start from a foundation chain. you worked (do not close the round with a slst). This
1 Make sure your chain isn’t twisted and put the is when the stitch marker comes in handy: place it
hook through the first chain stitch. into the single crochet you just worked.
2 Close into a ring by making one slip stitch in the 5 Continue working single crochet stitches until
first chain. you reach the stitch marker. Remove the marker
3 Continue crocheting one single crochet into each and make a single crochet in this stitch. Replace the
chain stitch until you reach the beginning. marker into the stitch you just worked and repeat.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

26
V single crochet

Difference between V and X single crochet


As you might notice, if you’re an experienced
crocheter, my stitches look slightly different from
what you’re accustomed to. Instead of wrapping
the yarn over my crochet hook, I wrap it under
my crochet hook. By doing this, I get an X-shaped
single crochet stitch instead of a V-shaped single
crochet stitch.

X single crochet

27
04 Half double crochet (abbreviation: hdc)

As its name indicates, this stitch is halfway between a single crochet and a double crochet in height. Being a looser
stitch, the fabric made with half double crochet is more fluid and is excellent for working toy garments. It’s also used
when the work requires raising or lowering heights (when crocheting the shape of a leaf or ear, for example).

Start from a foundation chain 5 Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch.
The first two chain stitches of the foundation chain Continue crocheting into every chain stitch.
are the turning chain for the first row and together 6 At the end of the row, make two turning chains and
are counted as the first stitch (which you skip). turn the work to begin the next row.
1 Yarn over from back to front. 7 Crochet one half double crochet in the third stitch
2 Insert the hook into the third chain from the hook from the hook, inserting the hook through both loops
and yarn over again. of the stitch in the row below.
3 Draw the yarn through one loop only. You now have 8 Repeat until you reach the end of the row.
three loops on the hook.
4 Yarn over again and draw through all three loops
on the hook. You have completed the first half double
crochet stitch.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

28
29
05 Double crochet (abbreviation: dc)

Probably the best-known crochet stitch to crochet garments and blankets. We only use it sporadically when
crocheting toys.

Start from a foundation chain


The first three chain stitches of the foundation chain are the turning chain for the first row and together are
counted as the first stitch.
1 Yarn over from back to front.
2 Insert the hook into the fourth chain from the hook and yarn over again.
3 Draw the yarn through one loop only. You now have three loops on the hook.
4 Yarn over again and draw through the first two loops on the hook. You now have two loops on the hook.
5 Wrap the yarn over the hook one last time and draw it through both loops on the hook. You have now
completed one double crochet stitch.
6 Yarn over and insert the hook into the next stitch. Continue crocheting into every chain stitch.
7 At the end of the row, make three turning chains and turn the work to begin the next row.
8 Crochet one double crochet stitch into the fourth stitch from the hook, inserting the hook through both loops
of the stitch in the row below.
9 Repeat until you reach the end of the row.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

30
06 Bobble stitch (abbreviation: 3-dc-bobble or 5-dc-bobble)

This is a less common crochet stitch, but I use it on almost all of my toys to make fingers and toes. It can
also be used to crochet noses, ears and other bobbly details.
A bobble stitch is a cluster of stitches worked into one stitch, joined by leaving the last loop of each
stitch temporarily on the hook until they are closed together at the end.
The number of stitches can vary, but it’s usually made of three or five stitches. In this book, I always use
a five double crochet bobble stitch.

1  Yarn over the hook before placing the hook into the stitch.
2  Yarn over again and draw the yarn through the stitch. You now have three loops on the hook.
3  Yarn over the hook again and pull it through the first two loops on the hook. You now have one
half-closed double crochet stitch, and two loops remain on the hook.
4  In the same stitch, repeat the preceding steps four more times. You will have 5 half-closed double
crochet stitches into one stitch.
5  Yarn over and draw through all six loops on the hook at once.

31
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Bobble stitch view from the top.

32
07 SINGLE RIB CROCHET (POST OR RELIEF STITCH)

I use this method to make ribbings of hats and other garments. This technique is more common with double crochet,
but it works fine with single crochet as well. It’s made by alternating one front-post and one back-post stitch.
You should have at least one row or round of single crochet stitches before beginning these raised stitches.

1  Insert the hook from front to back to front around 4  You have now finished your first front post stitch.
the post of the single crochet stitch from the previous 5  Insert the hook from back to front to back around
round or row. the post of the next single crochet stitch.
2  Yarn over and pull a loop around the post. Pull out 6  Yarn over and pull a loop around the post. Pull out
a little more yarn than for a standard single crochet a little more yarn than for a normal single crochet
stitch. stitch.
3  Yarn over and pull through the two loops on the 7  Yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook.
hook. 8  Repeat steps 1-7 until the end of the round or row.

33
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

34
INCREASES AND DECREASES

Increases and decreases are used for shaping any crochet garment or object.

Increase (abbreviation: inc)


Increasing in crochet is achieved by working two or more stitches where there would normally be one stitch.

1  Work a stitch into the next stitch of the last row


or round.
2  Insert your hook in exactly the same stitch.
3  Work a second stitch.

35
Decrease (abbreviation: dec)
Decreasing is achieved by crocheting two or more stitches together. When working motif patterns it’s common to
skip one or more stitches to decrease, but we’ll never use this technique when crocheting toys because it leaves
significant gaps through which stuffing can escape.

Traditional decrease
This is the one I use because it’s the method I learned first (mainly because it comes naturally to me). Nowadays, with
the amigurumi fever, it became less popular because it can leave a small gap if not tightened properly.

1  Work two incomplete stitches in two adjacent stitches on the previous round or row.
2  Yarn over.
3  Pull up a loop through all three loops on the hook.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

36
Invisible decrease
This way of decreasing is probably the most used when crocheting toys because the invisible decrease stitch
looks pretty similar to the other stitches.

1  Insert the hook in the front loop of the first stitch.


2  Insert the hook in the front loop of the next stitch.
You now have three loops on your hook.
3  Yarn over and draw it through the first two loops
on the hook.
4  Yarn over again and draw it through the two
loops remaining on the hook.

37
Working in spirals

Increasing stitches from the center out is a technique used to make round pieces, such as doilies, hats and toys. When
crocheting in rounds, we close each round with a slip stitch. This technique, despite generating perfect circles, leaves a
continuous mark as the result of joining rounds, something like a scar, and it’s not pretty at all on a cute toy.
To avoid this mark, instead we choose to crochet in spirals, that is, without closing the rounds.
And that’s why it’s highly recommended to use a stitch marker: this will show you where a new round begins and
the previous one ended. You can choose to place it at the end or the beginning of each round. After crocheting the
round, you should end up right above your stitch marker. Move it at the beginning or the end of each round (be
consistent in what you choose) to keep track of where you are.

MAGIC RING

This is, almost without a doubt, the best way to start crocheting in the round. You start by working the required
number of stitches on an adjustable loop and then pull the loop tight until the stitches are closed in a ring.
The significant advantage of the magic ring is that it won’t have a hole at the center, which is best for stuffed toys
(where you don’t want stuffing to poke out of any gaps).
There are several techniques to start the magic ring, and all of them may seem a little bit scary at first.
Practice, practice and don’t worry if it appears impossible during the first attempts. I can assure you that
once you’ve finished your first toy, you will have mastered this technique perfectly. And you’ll love it!

1  Start with the yarn crossed to form a circle, as if 6  Yarn over again.
you were to start a slip knot. 7  Draw the loop through both loops on the hook.
2  Holding the loop between your thumb and index Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
You’ve now made your first single crochet in the ring.
finger, insert the hook in the middle of the circle and 8  Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7 until you have the required
draw up a loop. number of stitches.
3  Keep holding the ring tight (this is crucial!) and 9  Grab the yarn tail and pull to draw the center of the
yarn over again. ring tightly closed. Don’t be afraid to pull it really tight.
4  Pull the yarn through the loop on your hook to make 10  You can opt to join the circle with a slip stitch, but
a chain stitch. This chain stitch will secure the ring. this is not at all necessary. It’s the only point where I
5  Insert the hook again into the loop and underneath myself join the rounds.
the tail (they look like two strands crossed). Yarn over
the hook and draw up a loop.

38
39
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

CROCHETING AROUND A FOUNDATION CHAIN

When you want to start an oval piece instead of a circle, you can start by working around a foundation chain.
It’s a very traditional method to start rugs or bags and, in case of toys, we’ll be using this technique for crocheting
snouts, ears and the body of some characters.

1  Work a foundation chain with as many stitches as side of the foundation chain.
required. 5 Turn your work upside down to work into the
2  Start in the second chain from the hook and work underside of the stitches. Notice that only one loop is
a single crochet stitch (sometimes, the pattern may available.
require an increase stitch). 6  Continue crocheting into each loop across.
3  Continue crocheting single crochet stitches into 7  Your last single crochet stitch should be next to the
each chain stitch. first stitch you made (it can also be an increase stitch
4  The last stitch is usually an increase stitch, so we depending on the pattern).
can turn the work and continue working on the other 8  You can now continue working in spirals.

40
41
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

42
CHANGING COLOR AND JOINING YARN

Use this technique when you want to switch from one color to the next or join yarn in case you ran out of the one you
were crocheting with.

1  Work in the previous color (or yarn) until two loops Try not to cut off any yarn tails that will be needed
of the last stitch remain on the hook. later on. I knot both yarns to make sure the stitch
2  Use the new color (or yarn) to complete the stitch. stays tight.
Continue working with the new color (or yarn) as
before.

Note: If you are working stripes of different colors in


rows, make the color change in the last stitch of the
previous row.

43
JACQUARD

Crocheting in jacquard is a technique where we work with two or more colors at once to create motifs and patterns.
It’s like drawing with different yarn colors as we crochet.
It’s common to work a jacquard motif following a diagram. I find it easier to work from diagrams or charts because
you can clearly see when to change colors and it’s simpler to count the stitches.
Handling the different strands of color when working jacquard can be a bit complicated (and rather frustrating). One
method that’s quite easy and works well is to leave the yarn we don’t use behind the work. When it’s time to use it
again, pick the yarn up again and carry it across the back (inside) of your work before making the next color change.

Note: When the pattern indicates to make the color 2 Taking into account that the color change always
change, it’s really important to remember that the starts a stitch before, take the strand of the color
change must always be started one stitch earlier that you want to use and carry it from behind to the
(see CHANGING COLOR on page 43). place where you want to change color.
3 The strands that remain inside your crochetwork,
1 Crochet the number of stitches as indicated by the between color changes, must be loose enough so
pattern. that the fabric does not pucker up.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Note: When the color changes are widely spread,


I like to cut the inside strands and tie them together.
In fact, it is recommendable in case the color change
causes your thread to cross the crochetwork and
make a web that doesn't allow you to stuff properly.

44
TAPESTRY

The only difference between jacquard and tapestry is how the different strands of color are carried through the
work: instead of leaving them on the inside, they are now carried along within the stitches (on top of the V) while
continuing to crochet with the other color. This means that every time we make a stitch, we’ll be wrapping the
strand(s) of other yarn colors that we aren’t using.
However, this apparently small difference will significantly change the look of the fabric, especially on the
backside (or “wrong” side).
It results in a piece of fabric that resembles a tapestry (hence the name!) and has the great advantage that there
are no loose threads on either side. Therefore, it’s great to crochet garments or accessories where we want the
fabric to look nice on both sides.
However, the small disadvantage I see is that, unless you carry the threads throughout the entire work, the place
where you crochet using this technique results in a rather thick fabric, and the threads of the “hidden” colors can
be seen between the stitches.

Note: If you want to learn more about this technique


and be amazed by the incredible fabrics and objects
you can crochet, check out Molla Mills’ work.

45
FASTENING OFF

When you finish your work and want to fasten off the yarn permanently, cut the yarn about 5 cm (2 inches) away from
the last stitch. Draw the end through the loop on the hook and pull tight.
If you are going to sew the piece, you may have to cut the yarn much longer, depending on how many stitches you’ll
have to sew. If you are not going to sew this piece, or if you have finished the last round of a stuffed piece, you may
want to weave in the yarn end.

Weave in the yarn end on a flat fabric Weave in the yarn end on a stuffed piece
1  Thread the yarn end into a tapestry needle. 1  Finish the last round of decreases and fasten off,
2  With the wrong side facing, weave the end into a leaving a long tail of 15 cm (6 inches).
single row or several stitches, wrapping the yarn end 2  Thread the yarn tail into a tapestry needle and,
into the loops of the bottom of the rows. You can also from back to front, weave it through the front loop of
pass the yarn sideways through the loops. each remaining stitch.
3  Cut the remaining tail. 3  Pull tight to close.
4  Weave it through one or two stitches to secure the tail.
5  Trim the excess yarn and hide it into the piece with
the help of your crochet hook.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

46
EMBROIDERY

Embroidery remains a pending subject for me. I only know how to make – more or less – one embroidery stitch
I learned as a child to hand-sew dolls dresses: the backstitch. It creates a nice line made up of straight stitches.

1  Thread your tapestry needle. 3  Continue along, as many times as you need, coming
2  Inserting the hook from behind your work, make a up one space ahead and bringing your needle back
single straight stitch as long as your single crochet down into the same hole at the end of the last stitch
stitch. I like to use the gaps between the stitches to you’ve made.
insert and pass the tapestry needle through.

47
JOINING PARTS (SEWING)

I still haven’t found a crocheter who really enjoys sewing parts together, and I’m not the exception. In fact, I think
I would pay someone to do the sewing part for me. But, as it’s not the case, better to learn a simple and satisfactory
way to carry out this not so pleasant task.
If you’re having doubts about where to place the parts, you can pin them to see how they look and adjust if necessary.
If possible (and I mean, always) use the leftover yarn tail from where you fastened off.

Joining open pieces


Use this technique to sew snouts, beaks, horns, etc. (pieces that will be stuffed) to an open and unstuffed piece,
like a head. Both pieces have open ends.

1  Thread the tapestry needle. 4  Using backstitching, sew passing under both loops
2  Position the piece. If you are sewing a snout or of each stitch from the final round of the piece to be
a beak on a face, I recommend you put it on the attached. Go from back to front and front to back.
opposite side of where your stitch marker is posi- Important! If the piece has 30 stitches, you’ll have to
tioned, for aesthetic reasons. Use pins if you need make at least 30 backstitches.
them! 5   Before getting to the end, remember to stuff the
3  Make the first stitch, inserting the needle from piece. I try not to stuff the pieces until the end, to
front to back (inside). avoid the filling getting entangled in the stitches.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

48
49
Joining an open end piece with a closed piece
Sewing a piece (with or without stuffing) onto a finished part without closing the opening to be sewn.

1  Thread the tapestry needle. 4  Now pass the needle under both loops of the stitch
2  Place the pieces on top of each other and try to line from the piece to be sewn (for example the arm).
up the stitches of one piece with the other, if possible. 5  Sew around the whole piece and fasten off. Weave
3  Insert the needle through one loop of the closed in the yarn tail.
(and stuffed) piece (for example the body).

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

50
READING A PATTERN

Patterns can be a little bit daunting when you see them for the first time, especially if your first encounter is with a
crochet diagram or chart. But once you learn the lingo, you’ll be able to unravel any pattern in front of you.
Crochet has its own lingo and, like all lingos, its own peculiarities. The crochet terminology not only differs between
countries, it even has its local variations in the same country.
The table below is a brief guide to the most commonly used stitch terms and symbols. In this book, I use US terms.

LATIN
US UK SPAIN SYMBOL
AMERICA

stitch (st) stitch (st) punto (p/pt) punto (p/pt)

chain (ch) chain (ch) cadena (c/cad) cadeneta (c/cad)

slip stitch (slst) slip stitch (slst) punto corrido /


pasado (pc/pp) punto raso / enano (pr/pe)

single crochet (sc) double crochet (dc) medio punto (mp) punto bajo (pb)

half double punto (alto)


crochet (hdc) half treble crochet (htc) media vareta (mv/pmv) medio (pm)

double crochet treble crochet (tr) punto alto (pa)


(dc) vareta (v/pv)

bobble stitch bobble stitch punto mota / piña punto piña

increase (inc) increase (inc) aumento (aum) aumento (aum)

decrease (dec) decrease (dec) disminución (dism) disminución (dism)

row/round (Rnd) row/round (Rnd) hilera (h) / carrera hilera (h) / carrera
vuelta / ronda (r) vuelta / ronda (r)

ring ring anillo anillo

PARENTHESES AND BRACKETS

In this book, I use parentheses (rounded brackets) to indicate the instructions that should be repeated across the
round or row a required number of times. The number within square brackets at the end of each line shows the total
number of stitches you should have in the previous round.
For example: Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 3 indicates in which round you are. The instructions inside the parentheses are the stitches you have to repeat
6 times throughout the round. 18 is the total number of stitches you should have at the end.
When directions for one round must be repeated through several rounds, you will read “Rnd 10-20”, which indicates
that you have to follow the same instructions from round 10 to round 20.

51
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

52
WHEN CROCHETING MY PATTERNS

Don’t feel tied to the choices of yarn. Although I always use DK/light worsted weight cotton, any weight of cotton,
acrylic or wool can be used as a substitute. Just keep in mind to use the right crochet hook accordingly.
The patterns don’t state the yarn quantity needed. The amounts are rather small and will vary according to how
loosely or tightly you crochet. One or two balls of each color is usually enough (for light or DK worsted weight yarn,
you’ll need between 70 and 100 grams).
Color choice is something very personal. It’s unlikely you’ll see me use violet or purple shades … and it’s easy to
notice that I have a thing for blues and nautical color schemes (that’s why almost all of my characters have striped
T-shirts). So, when you crochet your own toys, try to find those colors that suit you, that make you smile. If you’re
feeling a bit lost, try finding inspiration in your everyday life: nature, books, magazines, films, cartoons, your
surroundings or even by looking at pictures from collections online.

The idea is that every pattern can be a starting point for another one, for a lot of new
characters and ideas. Experiment with them, modify them as you please. As I’ve said a ton of
times before, there are no hard rules; you should always allow yourself to adapt the
techniques to meet your needs.
Make, make a lot. Make and try everything. Don’t be afraid to mess it up. I can assure you that
you’ll end with lots of crochet failures … But please, don’t stop making them. Every one of your
failures is a step closer to something new. It’s knowledge, it’s experience, and it’s letting you
have fun. Try to remember when you were a kid; you probably didn’t do stuff to achieve some
goal, you only did it for fun, to enjoy the moment. Crochet can bring you this same joy and the
great satisfaction of making things.
Now, this is your chance to find that unique mentality again, to recover those feelings and
sensations, to connect with that quirky style from when we were kids. And, as in those years,
proudly show the fruits of our efforts.

53
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

54
55
Ever since Pedro can remember, he has always been afraid of something.
He was afraid of the dark and of being left alone. Afraid to try unknown foods,
to meet new pigs, or even worse, he was afraid of making a fool of himself.
Pedro had so many small fears that stopped him from doing everything he
wanted to do, from being the pig he wanted to be.
But last summer, Pedro decided that enough was enough. He was not going
to stop having fun with his friends just because he didn’t dare to put his foot
into the water. So he put on his swimming rings (also overcoming his fear of
ridicule) and dove into the lagoon.
Now Pedro is finishing the first year of his lifeguard course and he's eager to
start training as a firefighter next.

SK
ILL LEVEL * SNOUT HEAD AND BODY
*

(in pink) Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43


(start in pink)
Size: Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
11 inches / 28 cm tall sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
when made with the Rnd 1: start in second ch from the Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
indicated yarn (ears hook, inc in this st, sc in next 3 st, 4 sc repeat 6 times [18]
included) in last st. Continue on the other side Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
of the foundation chain, sc in next 3 repeat 6 times [24]
Materials:
– DK or light worsted
st, inc in next st [14] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
weight yarn in Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, repeat 6 times [30]
· pink inc in next 2 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
· white next st [18] repeat 6 times [36]
· blue Rnd 3: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
· red inc in next 3 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in repeat 6 times [42]
· leftover of black next st [24] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm Rnd 4: BLO sc in all 24 st [24] repeat 6 times [48]
crochet hook Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
– Black safety eyes Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. repeat 6 times [54]
(8 mm)
Join pink yarn in the first front loop Rnd 10 – 20: sc in all 54 st [54]
– Fiberfill
stitch of round 4. Rnd 21: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat
Note: the head and body Rnd 7: FLO slst in all 24 st [24] 9 times [45]
are worked in one piece. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Rnd 22: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat
Embroider the mouth and nose with 9 times [36]
black yarn. Stuff the snout lightly with Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat
fiberfill. 6 times [30]

56
57
Sew the snout between rounds 16 and 22. The
snout must be placed on the opposite side of the
start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between
rounds 17 and 18, about 3 stitches away from
the snout. Stuff the head.
Rnd 24: sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6
times [36]
Rnd 26 – 28: sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 29: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6
times [42]
Rnd 30 – 36: sc in all 42 st [42]
Continue in a stripe pattern, changing the color
every round, alternating between white and blue.
Rnd 37: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6
times [48]
Rnd 38 – 44: sc in all 48 st [48]
Rnd 45: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 46 – 47: sc in all 42 st [42]

LEGS Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3


stitches for the central space between the legs,
3 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each
leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers).
If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head,
crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them.
Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side
to the front side, working a single crochet stitch
(this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the
stitches of the first leg are joined in the round.
Continue working the first leg in a stripe pattern:
Rnd 48 – 49: sc in all 18 st [18]
Change to pink yarn.
Rnd 50: BLO sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 51 – 59: sc in all 18 st [18]
Stuff the body and leg firmly.
Rnd 60: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 61: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry
needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop
of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close
the gap. Weave in the yarn end.

58
SECOND LEG
Rejoin the blue yarn in the fourth unworked stitch
at the back of round 47. This is where we start the
first stitch of the second leg.
Rnd 48: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th
stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round.
Rnd 49 – 61: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
Add more stuffing if needed. Using a tapestry
needle, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed.

59
ARMS TAIL
(make 2, in pink) (in pink)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Ch 9.
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Row 1: start in second ch from hook, inc in next
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] 8 st [16]
Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the
next 10 st [12] tail to the back, centered over round 40.
Rnd 6 – 16: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 17: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff
with fiberfill. Sew the arms on both sides be-
tween rounds 26 and 27.

Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

EARS
(make 2, in pink) Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] times [20]
Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 8 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20]
Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 12: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears
times [15] do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and pinch the
Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] ears. Sew the ears to the top of the head.

60
SWIMMING RINGS
(make 2, start in white) Rnd 2: ((white) sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, (red)
Ch 16. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [32]
the hook in the first chain stitch and join the Rnd 3 – 7: ((white) sc in next 4 st, (red) sc in next
foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in 4 st) repeat 8 times [32]
a spiral. Work with alternating yarns (white and Rnd 8: ((white) sc in next 2 st, dec, (red) sc in next
red). The color you work with is indicated before 2 st, dec) repeat 8 times [24]
each line. Rnd 9: ((white) sc in next st, dec, (red) sc in next
Rnd 1: ((white) sc in next st, inc in next st, (red) sc st, dec) repeat 8 times [16]
in next st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew
round 9 to round 1 to make a ring. Stuff as you go.

61
Tired of the life in the big city and the feeling of being locked in a tiny
apartment (he’s not a fan of hibernation), Hans decided to move to a more
open space, away from everyone and the ‘canned’ city life. So he moved to
the beach, near Tofino Bay, in Canada. Now Hans is happy growing his own
food, catching his own fish and learning to surf with the locals. The only
thing he really misses is falafel, so he’s seriously thinking of opening a
small restaurant dedicated to those fantastic chickpea balls.

SK
ILL LEVEL * SNOUT
*

Size:
(in mustard yellow) Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
12 inches / 30 cm tall Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] repeat 6 times [54]
when made with the Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 10 – 22: sc in all 54 st [54]
indicated yarn (ears Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 9
included) repeat 6 times [18] times [45]
Rnd 4 – 7: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 9
Materials:
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for times [36]


– DK or light worsted sewing. Embroider the mouth and Sew the snout between rounds 17 and
weight yarn in nose with black yarn. Stuff the snout 23. The snout must be placed on the
· brown
lightly with fiberfill. opposite side of the start of the round.
· mustard yellow
Insert the safety eyes between rounds
· white
· blue 18 and 19, about 4 stitches away from
· red
· aqua blue HEAD AND BODY the snout. Stuff the head.
Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6
· leftover of black times [30]
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm (start in brown) Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6
crochet hook Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] times [24]
– Size G-6 / 4 mm Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6
crochet hook Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) times [18]
– Black safety eyes repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 28: sc in all 18 st [18]
(8 mm)
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) Continue in a stripe pattern, changing
– Fiberfill
repeat 6 times [24] color every round, alternating be-
Note: the head and body Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) tween white and blue.
are worked in one piece. repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 29: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Note: use size C-2 / repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 30: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
2.75 mm crochet hook, Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
unless otherwise noted. repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 31: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 32 – 35: sc in all 36 st [36]

62
63
Rnd 36: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat
4 times [40] ARMS
Rnd 37 – 39: sc in all 40 st [40]
Change to brown yarn. (make 2, start in brown)
Rnd 40: BLO sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 41 – 45: sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12]
Rnd 6 – 17: sc in all 12 st [12]
Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round,

LEGS alternating between white and blue.


Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8]
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 2 Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill.
stitches for the central space between the legs, Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 30 and 31.
2 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each
leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers).
If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head,
crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. TAIL
Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side
to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (in brown) Rnd 34

(this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 7 Rnd 33
Rnd 6 Rnd 32

stitches of the first leg are joined in the round.


Rnd 5
Rnd 4
Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
Rnd 31
Rnd 30

Continue working the first leg: Rnd 3


Rnd 2
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need Rnd 29
Rnd 28
Rnd 46 – 67: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 1 to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 42. Rnd 27
1 sc

Stuff the body and leg firmly.


11 sc 6 sc 1 sc

repeat
pattern
Rnd 68: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 69: dec 6 times [6]
HAT
Rnd 19
Rnd 18

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry Rnd 17


Rnd 16
Rnd 15
needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loopRnd 14
Rnd 13

of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Rnd 12


Rnd 11
(in red) Rnd 9
Rnd 8

Weave in the yarn end. Rnd 10


Rnd 9 Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 7

Rnd 8 Rnd 6
Rnd 7
Rnd 6
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 5
Rnd 4
SECOND LEG Rnd 5
Rnd 4
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 3

Rejoin the brown yarn to the third unworked Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 3 Rnd 2
Rnd 2 Rnd 1
Rnd 1
stitch at the back of round 45. This is where we
4 sc 1 sc Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
6 sc
repeat pattern
1 sc

repeat
start the first stitch of the second leg.
pattern
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 46: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42]
stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [18] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 47 – 69: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54]
Add more stuffing if needed. Using a tapestry Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]
needle, sew the 2 stitches between the legs Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 60 st [60]
closed. Rnd 13: sc in next 18 st, ch 8, skip next 8 st, sc in next 8 st, ch 8,
skip next 8 st, sc in next 18 st [60]
Rnd 14 – 17: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 18 – 20: single rib crochet in all 60 st [60]
Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends.

64
EARS
(make 2, in brown) 3 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st,
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] sc in next st, sc in next 8 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] 5 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn [36]
Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Row 2: sc in next 4 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st,
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears 3 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in
do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears. Sew next 7 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [44]
the ears to the head, taking into account the posi- Row 3: sc in next 6 st, ch 5, skip next 9 st, sc in
tion of the gaps in the hat. next 14 st, ch 5, skip next 9 st, sc in next 6 st, ch 1,
turn [36]
Row 4: sc in next 6 st, sc in next 5 ch, sc in next 14 st,

VEST
sc in next 5 ch, sc in next 6 st, ch 1, turn [36]
Row 5 – 11: sc in all 36 st, ch 1, turn [36]
Without turning, single crochet and edge all around
(in aqua blue, using size G-6 / 4 mm crochet hook) the vest, in the row-ends up the first side, across the
Ch 29. Crochet in rows. neck, and down the row-ends on the other side. Fasten
Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next off and weave in the yarn ends.

65
Murray was born near Bromore Cliffs, on Ireland’s west coast. He loves
everything about his home: the sea, the rocky shores, the salty breezes and,
naturally, the seafood. Anything with fish, cabbage or potatoes is his favorite
on the menu, especially if it’s fried.
Murray knew what he wanted to be from the first time he watched a Jacques
Cousteau documentary: explorer, conservationist and filmmaker. Since he
doesn’t need a submarine to dive deep into the sea, Murray bought a yellow
bicycle and called it Calypso. He now uses it to explore the Wild Atlantic Way.
Luckily, it also has a nice little basket where he can put his lunch of fish and
chips.

SK
ILL LEVEL * SNOUT HEAD AND BODY
*
(start in off-white) (start in mink brown)
Size: Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

12 inches / 30 cm tall We work with alternating yarns (off-white Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
when made with the and mink brown). The color you work with Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
indicated yarn (ears is indicated before each line. Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
included) Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both repeat 6 times [18]
sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
Materials: Rnd 1: (off-white) start in second ch from repeat 6 times [24]
– DK or light worsted the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 3 st, 2 sc Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
weight yarn in in last st, (mink brown) 2 more sc in last repeat 6 times [30]
· mink brown
stitch. Continue on the other side of the Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
· off-white
foundation chain, sc in next 3 st, inc in next repeat 6 times [36]
· white
· blue st [14] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
· yellow Rnd 2: (off-white) inc in next st, sc in next repeat 6 times [42]
· leftover of black 5 st, inc in next st, (mink brown) inc in next Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st [18] repeat 6 times [48]
crochet hook Rnd 3: (off-white) sc in next st, inc in next st, Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 48 st [48]
– Black safety eyes sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, Rnd 12: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
(8 mm) (mink brown) sc in next st, inc in next st, repeat 6 times [54]
– Fiberfill sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [22] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 54 st [54]
Rnd 4 – 5: (off-white) sc in next 11 st, (mink Rnd 15: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st)
Note: the head and body
brown) sc in next 11 st [22] repeat 6 times [60]
are worked in one piece.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Change to off-white yarn.
Embroider the nose and mouth with black Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 60 st [60]
yarn. Stuff the snout lightly with fiberfill. Rnd 18: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat
6 times [54]

66
67
Rnd 19: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
Rnd 20: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in
Sew the snout between rounds 12 and 19. The the yarn end.
snout must be placed on the opposite side of the
start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between SECOND LEG
rounds 15 and 16, about 4 stitches away from Rejoin the mink brown yarn in the fifth unworked
the snout. Stuff the head. stitch at the back of round 64. This is where we
Rnd 21: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] start the first stitch of the second leg.
Rnd 22: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 65: sc in all 14 st. When you reach the 14th
Rnd 23: sc in all 30 st [30] stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [14]
Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round Rnd 66 – 70: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
in blue and 2 rounds in white. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the
Rnd 24: sc in all 30 st [30] body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the
Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 4 stitches between the legs closed.
times [36]
Rnd 26 – 30: sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 31: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6
times [42] ARMS
Rnd 32 – 36: sc in all 42 st [42]
Change to mink brown yarn. (make 2, start in mink brown)
Rnd 37: BLO (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
6 times [48] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 38 – 58: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 3: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Rnd 59: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] next 8 st [10]
Rnd 60 – 61: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 4 – 14: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 62: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Change to white yarn.
Rnd 63-64: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 15: sc in all 10 st [10]
Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round
in blue and 2 rounds in white.

LEGS Rnd 16 – 19: sc in all 10 st [10]


Rnd 20: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 4 with fiberfill. Sew the arms on both sides be-
stitches for the central space between the legs, 4 tween rounds 25 and 26.
stitches for the back and 14 stitches for each leg (you
may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs

EARS
don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more
sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for
the leg on the back side to the front side, working a
single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of (make 2, in mink brown)
the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 65 – 69: sc in all 14 st [14] Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10]
Stuff the body and leg firmly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears
Rnd 70: dec 7 times [7] do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears and
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, sew them to rounds 6-10 of the head.

68
TAIL Rnd 24: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30]
Rnd 25 – 26: sc in all 30 st [30]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill.
(in mink brown) Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 50 to 60.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]
Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 9 st [9] VEST
Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12]
Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 12 st [12] (in yellow)
Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Ch 38. Crochet hdc in rows.
Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15] Row 1: start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 36 st,
Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] ch 2, turn [36]
Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 18 st [18] Row 2: hdc in next 5 st, ch 6, skip next 6 st, hdc in next
Rnd 15: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21] 14 st, ch 6, skip next 6 st, hdc in next 5 st, ch 2, turn [36]
Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 21 st [21] Row 3: (hdc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times,
Rnd 18: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] ch 2, turn [42]
Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 24 st [24] Row 4: hdc in next 42 st, ch 2, turn [42]
Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] Row 5: hdc in next 42 st [42]
Rnd 22 – 23: sc in all 27 st [27] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

69
René is a yacaré caiman born in Pantanal, Brazil, but a big part of his family
is from Corrientes, Argentina, so he speaks both languages. Luckily, he’s not
a football fan. René is a geographer and works as a freelancer for National
Geographic and the most prestigious universities in the world. He doesn’t
believe in stereotypes or the pre-established, especially in fashion or dress
codes, so he wears only things that make him happy. Lately, René doesn’t go
out without his blue bow tie and the party hat from his last birthday. Life
really is too short to care about the tastes and tolerance issues of others.

SK
ILL LEVEL * HEAD front loop of each remaining stitch and
pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn
end. Embroider short, dark green lines
Size: (in green) on top of the caiman’s snout.
10 inches / 25 cm tall Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both
when made with the sides of the foundation chain.

EYES
indicated yarn
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook,


inc in this st, sc in next 10 st, 3 sc in last st.
Materials: Continue on the other side of the foundation
– DK or light worsted
chain, sc in next 11 st [26] (make 2, in green)
weight yarn in
Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
· green
· white next 3 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st [32] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
· blue Rnd 3: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12]
· dark blue Rnd 4: sc in next 4 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, Fasten off, leaving a long tail for
· red sc in next 8 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in sewing. Insert the safety eyes be-
· leftover of pink next 18 st [32] tween rounds 3 and 4. Stuff lightly
· leftover of dark green Rnd 5 – 14: sc in all 32 st [32] and sew to the head, over rounds
· leftover of ochre Rnd 15: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 11 and 15, with an interspace of
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm 4 times [36] 4 stitches.
crochet hook Rnd 16 – 30: sc in all 36 st [36]
– Black safety eyes
Rnd 31: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
(8 mm)
– Fiberfill
Rnd 32: sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 33: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] CHEEKS
Stuff the head firmly with fiberfill.
Rnd 34: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] (make 2, in pink)
Rnd 35: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8]
Rnd 36: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapes- sewing. Sew the cheeks to the
try needle, weave the yarn tail through the head.

70
71
BODY
SECOND LEG
Rejoin the green yarn in the seventh unworked stitch at the back
of round 36. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg.
(start in green) Rnd 37: sc in all 12 st. When you reach the 12th stitch of the leg,
Ch 24. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert sc in first st to join the round [12]
the hook in the first chain stitch and join the Rnd 38 – 43: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in Add more stuffing if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the
a spiral. 6 stitches between the legs closed. Sew the head to the body.
Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 24 st [24]
Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every

ARMS
round, alternating between white and blue.
Rnd 3: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6
times [30]
Rnd 4 – 10: sc in all 30 st [30] (make 2, start in green)
Rnd 11: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
times [36] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 12 – 17: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 3 – 10: sc in all 10 st [10]
Change to green yarn. Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round,
Rnd 18: BLO (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat alternating between white and blue.
6 times [42] Rnd 11 – 22: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 19 – 32: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 23: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [8]
Rnd 33: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill.
Rnd 34 – 36: sc in all 36 st [36] Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 3 and 4.
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

LEGS TAIL
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 6 (in green)
stitches for the central space between the legs, Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
6 stitches for the back and 12 stitches for each Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6]
leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]
If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 9 st [9]
a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12]
last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 12 st [12]
side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15]
be the first stitch of the leg). Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15]
Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18]
round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 37 – 42: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 15: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21]
Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 21 st [21]
Rnd 43: dec 6 times [6] Rnd 18: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 24 st [24]
needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27]
of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Rnd 22 – 23: sc in all 27 st [27]
Weave in the yarn end. Rnd 24: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30]

72
Rnd 25 – 26: sc in all 30 st [30]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with PARTY HAT
fiberfill. Sew the tail to the back, centered over
rounds 25 to 34. (start in red)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6]

BOW TIE
Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every
2 rounds, alternating between red and white.
Rnd 3: inc in all 6 st [12]
(in dark blue) Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12]
Ch 22. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert Rnd 6: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
the hook in the first chain stitch and join the founda­- repeat 6 times [18]
tion chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 1 – 4: sc in all 22 st [22] Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 10: sc in all 24 st [24]
Middle ribbon (in dark blue) Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
Ch 9. Do not join. Sew a pom-pom to the top. Stuff lightly with
Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next fiberfill. Sew the hat to the head.
8 st [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Wrap
the middle ribbon around the center of the bow
tie. Sew the bow tie to the T-shirt.

73
Ramón is an astronomer who travels all around the world searching for the
best places to observe the skies. His next project is to create a public and free
observatory in the Andes, so everyone has the possibility to watch and learn
about the galaxies, nebulae and constellations that fascinate him so much.
Obviously, he grew up watching Carl Sagan’s Cosmos and is a Star Trek fan
(and a Star Wars fan too, but don’t say a thing, because Trekkies are a bit
sensitive, hehe). Live long and prosper and may the force be with you.

KI
LL L
EVEL *
*( SNOUT Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
*)
S

Size: (in off-white) repeat 6 times [48]


14.5 inches / 37 cm tall Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
when made with the Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
repeat 6 times [54]
indicated yarn (ears Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 Rnd 10 – 22: sc in all 54 st [54]
included) times [18] Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 9
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat times [45]
Materials: 6 times [24] Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 9
– DK or light worsted
Rnd 5 – 9: sc in all 24 st [24] times [36]
weight yarn in
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6
· mink brown
· off-white Embroider the mouth and nose with black times [30]
· white yarn. Stuff the snout lightly with fiberfill. Sew the snout between rounds 17 and 24.
· slate gray The snout must be placed on the opposite
· black side of the start of the round. Insert the
· leftover of bright
colors for the poncho HEAD AND BODY safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19,
about 3 stitches away from the snout.
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6
crochet hook (start in brown) times [24]
– Black safety eyes Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6
(10 mm)
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] times [18]
– Fiberfill
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 Rnd 28: sc in all 18 st [18]
Note: the head and body times [18] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing
are worked in one piece. Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat color every round, alternating between
6 times [24] white and slate gray.
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 29: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
6 times [30] repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 30: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
6 times [36] repeat 6 times [30]

74
75
Rnd 31: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat
6 times [36] ARMS
Rnd 32 – 35: sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 36: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat (make 2, start in mink brown)
4 times [40] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 37 – 39: sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Change to brown yarn. Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 40: BLO sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12]
Rnd 41 – 45: sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 6 – 17: sc in all 12 st [12]
Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating
between white and slate gray.

LEGS Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12]


Rnd 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the
To make the legs, divide the work, identify- arms on both sides between rounds 30 and 31.
ing 2 stitches for the central space between
the legs, 2 stitches for the back and 18
stitches for each leg (you may find it use-
ful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t EARS
line up nicely with the head, crochet a few
more sc on the body or undo them. Join the (make 2, start in mink brown)
last stitch for the leg on the back side to the Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
front side, working a single crochet stitch Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6]
(this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Starting in the next round, we continue working with alternating
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in yarns. The color you work with is indicated before each line.
the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 3: (mink brown) inc in next 4 st, (off-white) inc in next 2 st [12]
Rnd 46 – 67: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 4: (mink brown) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st [12]
Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 5: (mink brown) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times, (off-
Rnd 68: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] white) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [18]
Rnd 69: dec 6 times [6] Rnd 6: (mink brown) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [18]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapes- Rnd 7: (mink brown) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times,
try needle, weave the yarn tail through the (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [24]
front loop of each remaining stitch and pull Rnd 8 – 22: (mink brown) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st [24]
tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be
stuffed. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears to the top of the head.
SECOND LEG
Rejoin the brown yarn to the third unworked
stitch at the back of round 45. This is where
we start the first stitch of the second leg. TAIL
Rnd 46: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the
18th stitch of the leg, sc in first stitch to join (start in black)
into the round [18] Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 47 – 69: repeat the pattern for the Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
first leg. Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 10 st [10]
Add more stuffing if needed. Using a tapes- Change to mink brown yarn.
try needle, sew the 2 stitches between the Rnd 5 – 9: sc in all 10 st [10]
legs closed. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Sew the tail to
the back, centered over round 42.

76
HAIR
(in black)
Insert the hook in the middle of the magic ring, at the top of the head.
Ch 6.
Row 1: start in second ch from hook, slst in next 5 ch [5]
Join with a slst in the next stitch to the head.
Insert the hook in the next stitch from the magic ring and ch 6. Turn, slst in next 5 ch. Join with a slst to the head.
Continue working the hair along the next stitches, about 5 rounds down (the more rounds, the more hair your
donkey has).

77
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

78
PONCHO Rnd 7: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 8: sc in next 26 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 29 st, 3 sc in next
st, sc in next 3 st [64]
Note: For the poncho I use the tapestry crochet Rnd 9: sc in all 64 st [64]
technique, following the diagram enclosed. If Rnd 10: sc in next 27 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 31 st, 3 sc in
you are not confident using this technique, you next st, sc in next 4 st [68]
can choose to crochet the entire poncho in one Rnd 11: sc in all 68 st [68] Rnd 7
color or in a simple stripes pattern. Rnd 12: sc in next 28 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 33 st, 3 sc in
next st, sc in next 5 st [72] Rnd 6
(start in main color) Rnd 13: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 5
Ch 48. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted, then Rnd 14: sc in next 29 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 35 st, 3 sc in
insert the hook in the first chain stitch and next st, sc in next 6 st [76] Rnd 4
crochet a slst to close the ring. Continue working Rnd 15: sc in all 76 st [76] Rnd 3
in a spiral, changing colors according to the Rnd 16: sc in next 30 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 37 st, 3 sc in
diagram. next st, sc in next 7 st [80] Rnd 2
Rnd 1: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 17: sc in all 80 st [80] Rnd 1
Rnd 2: sc in next 23 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next Rnd 18: sc in next 31 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 39 st, 3 sc in
1 sc
23 st, 3 sc in next st [52] next st, sc in next 8 st [84]
Rnd 3: sc in all 52 st [52] Rnd 19: sc in all 84 st [84]
Rnd 4: sc in next 24 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Finish the poncho by
25 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st [56] adding some fringes.
Rnd 5: sc in all 56 st [56]
Rnd 6: sc in next 25 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next
27 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st [60] Rnd 19
Rnd 18
Rnd 17
Rnd 16
Rnd 15
Rnd 14
Rnd 13
Rnd 12
Rnd 11
Rnd 10
Rnd 9
Rnd 8
Rnd 7
Rnd 6
Rnd 5
Rnd 4
Rnd 3
Rnd 2
Rnd 1
4 sc 1 sc
repeat
pattern

79
A great sybarite, Lola was born in the mountains of Qinling, China, but has
lived in San Francisco since she was five. Unlike most of her relatives, whose
diet is 99 % based on bamboo, Lola only eats this plant if it’s nicely stir-fried
with onions, peas, crispy bacon and mushrooms. Yes, she prefers her meals
a bit more elaborate and, if possible, she tries a different dish every day.
Lola now works as a gastronomy writer for several magazines and specializes
in agro-ecology. She’s one of Hans Grizzly Bear’s best friends (some even say
there’s some romance in the air).

KI
LL L
EVEL *
*( MUZZLE 6 times [30]
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
*)
S

repeat 6 times [36]


Size: (in off-white) Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
9.5 inches / 24 cm tall Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
repeat 6 times [42]
when made with the sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
indicated yarn (ears Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in repeat 6 times [48]
included) next 4 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
other side of the foundation chain, sc in repeat 6 times [54]
Materials:
next 3 st, inc in next st [12] Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 54 st [54]
– DK or light worsted
weight yarn in
Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in In the next round, we continue working
· off-white next 3 st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st [18] with alternating yarns (off-white and
· charcoal gray Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 18 st [18] charcoal gray). The color you work
· teal blue Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. with is indicated before each line.
· white Embroider the mouth and nose with black Rnd 13: (off-white) sc in next 19 st,
· leftover of pink yarn. Stuff the muzzle lightly with fiberfill. (charcoal gray) sc in next 3 st, (off-white)
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm sc in next 10 st, (charcoal gray) sc in
crochet hook next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 19 st [54]

HEAD AND BODY


– Black safety eyes Rnd 14: (off-white) sc in next 18 st,
(8 mm) (charcoal gray) sc in next 5 st, (off-white)
– Fiberfill
sc in next 8 st, (charcoal gray) sc in
Note: the head and body
(start in off-white) next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 18 st [54]
are worked in one piece. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 15 – 16: (off-white) sc in next 17 st,
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] (charcoal gray) sc in next 6 st, (off-white)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 sc in next 8 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next
times [18] 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 17 st [54]
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 17: (off-white) sc in next 17 st,
6 times [24] (charcoal gray) sc in next 5 st,
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (charcoal

80
81
gray) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 17 st [54] SECOND LEG
Rnd 18: (off-white) sc in next 17 st, (charcoal Rejoin the charcoal gray yarn in the seventh unworked stitch at
gray) sc in next 4 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, the back of round 47. This is where we start the first stitch of
(charcoal gray) sc in next 4 st, (off-white) sc in the second leg.
next 17 st [54] Rnd 48: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th stitch of the leg,
Rnd 19 – 20: (off-white) sc in all 54 st [54] sc in first st to join the round [18]
Sew the muzzle between rounds 12 and 17. Rnd 49 – 54: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 15 and Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if needed.
16, about 2 stitches away from the snout. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 6 stitches between the legs closed.
Embroider two cheeks with pink yarn.
Rnd 21: (charcoal gray) (sc in next 8 st, inc in
next st) repeat 6 times [60]
Rnd 22 – 24: sc in all 60 st [60] EARS
Rnd 25 – 42: (off-white) sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 43: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] (make 2, in charcoal gray)
Rnd 44 – 45: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 46: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 47: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need
to be stuffed. Flatten the ears. Sew the ears to the head over

LEGS rounds 4 to 10.

To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 6


stitches for the central space between the legs, ARMS Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

6 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each


leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). (make 2, in charcoal gray)
If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10]
to the front side, working a single crochet stitch Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
(this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the Rnd 5 – 14: sc in all 15 st [15]
stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew
Continue working the first leg: the arms on both sides between rounds 21 and 22.
Change to charcoal gray.
Rnd 48 – 52: sc in all 18 st [18]
Stuff the body and leg firmly.
Rnd 53: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] TAIL
Rnd 54: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry (in off-white)
needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 5 st [5]
Weave in the yarn end. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need to
be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 39.

82
SKIRT
Note: For the skirt I use the jacquard technique,
following the diagram enclosed. If you are not
confident using this technique, you can choose
to crochet the entire skirt in one color.

(start in teal blue)


Ch 60. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted.
Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and
join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue
working in a spiral.
Rnd 1: sc in all 60 st [60]
Continue working the next rounds in jacquard
pattern, alternating teal blue and white yarn
according to the diagram.
Rnd 2: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 20
times [80]
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 80 st [80]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 20
times [100]
Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 100 st [100]
Rnd 8: slst in all 100 st [100]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

Rnd 7
Rnd 6
Rnd 5
Rnd 4
Rnd 3
Rnd 2
Rnd 1
1 sc
Note: You may have to adjust the pattern slightly along the way in round 2 and
round 5, where increases are made. Each "V" represents an increase stitch.

83
Rnd 19
Everyone knows that cheetahs are the fastest land animals. But Rosa is not so keen
on sports or chasing other animals – she prefers her food in the shape of pizza, with
mozzarella cheese, tomato sauce and a ton of olives on top.
Rosa prefers to use her skills to read and study superfast. Thanks to that, she already
has several university degrees under her belt, including one in robotics, informatics,
civil and environmental engineering. She’s also finishing her degree in English
Literature and she might start a new course in Philosophy. Some people may think
this is all a little too much, but for Rosa, learning about everything that surrounds
her is as important as breathing. She’d study anything really, anything but sports.

SK
ILL LEVEL * SNOUT
*

Size: (start in off-white)


12 inches / 30 cm tall Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

when made with the In the next round, we continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and mustard
indicated yarn (ears yellow). The color you work with is indicated before each line.
included) Rnd 2: (off-white) inc in next 3 st, (mustard yellow) inc in next 3 st [12]
Rnd 3: (off-white) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (mustard yellow) (sc in
Materials: next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18]
– DK or light worsted
Rnd 4: (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (mustard yellow) (sc in
weight yarn in
· mustard yellow
next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24]
· off-white Rnd 5 – 6: (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (mustard yellow) sc in next 12 st [24]
· black Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black
· pastel pink yarn. Stuff the nose lightly with fiberfill.
· petrol blue
· leftover of walnut

HEAD AND BODY


brown
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm
crochet hook
– Black safety eyes (start in mustard yellow)
(10 mm)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
– Fiberfill
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Note: the head and body Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
are worked in one piece. Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]

84
85
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54]
Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]
Rnd 11 – 20: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48]
Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36]
Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
Sew the snout between rounds 13 and 20. The snout
must be placed on the opposite side of the start of
the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds
16 and 17, about 3 stitches away from the snout.
Embroider the eyebrows with black yarn and the
streaks on the forehead and cheeks with walnut
brown yarn.
Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 25: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 26: sc in all 18 st [18]
Stuff the head firmly. Change to pastel pink yarn.
Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 28: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 29 – 31: sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 32: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 33 – 36: sc in all 36 st [36] Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Change to mustard yellow yarn.


Rnd 37: BLO sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 38 – 43: sc in all 36 st [36]

LEGS
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3
stitches for the central space between the legs,
3 stitches for the back and 15 stitches for each leg
(you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the
legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a
few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last
stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side,
working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the
first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first
leg are joined in the round. Continue working the
first leg:
Rnd 44 – 71: sc in all 15 st [15]
Stuff the body and leg firmly.
Rnd 72: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10]

86
Rnd 73: dec 5 times [5]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining
stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.

SECOND LEG
Rejoin the mustard yellow yarn in the fourth unworked
stitch at the back of round 43. This is where we start the
first stitch of the second leg.
Rnd 44: sc in all 15 st. When you reach the 15th stitch of the
leg, sc in first stitch to join the round [15]
Rnd 45 – 73: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if
needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches between
the legs closed. Embroider streaks on the hips with walnut
brown yarn.

ARMS
(make 2, start in mustard yellow)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12]
Rnd 6 – 18: sc in all 12 st [12]
Change to pastel pink yarn. TAIL
Rnd 19 – 21: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 22: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] (start in black)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 28 and 29. Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 10 st [10]
Change to mustard yellow yarn.

EARS Rnd 7 – 10: sc in all 10 st [10]


Stuff lightly and continue stuffing as you go. Continue
in a stripe pattern, alternating 2 rounds in black and 3
(make 2, start in black) rounds in mustard yellow yarn.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 11 – 25: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round in
Change to mustard yellow yarn. black and 2 rounds in mustard yellow yarn.
Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 26 – 42: sc in all 10 st [10]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider 3 little Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Add more
off-white stripes. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten stuffing to the tail if needed. Sew the tail to the back,
the ears before sewing. centered over round 38.

87
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

88
JUMPER DRESS
(in petrol blue)
Ch 42. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first
chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working
in a spiral.
Rnd 1: sc in all 42 st [42]
Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 3: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54]
Rnd 4: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]
Rnd 5 – 9: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 10: slst in all 60 st [60]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
We continue working the front bib. Work in rows on the center 8
stitches of round 1. Insert your hook with the right side facing you
and draw up a loop.
Row 1 – 4: sc in all 8 st, ch 1, turn [8]
Row 5: sc in all 8 st [8]
Do not fasten off. Make the shoulder straps and wasteband:
Ch 26, start in second ch from hook, sc in next 25 st.
Continue on the left side of the front bib, sc in next 5 row-ends.
Continue on the wasteband, sc in next 34 st.
Continue on the right side of the front bib, sc in next 5 row-ends.
Ch 26, start in second ch from hook, sc in next 25 st.
Continue on the top of the front bib, slst in next 8 st.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Cross the shoulder straps
at the back and sew to the dress with an interspace of 8 stitches.

89
After his great-grandfather became famous in a Bugs Bunny short film singing
“Hello, my baby”, Victor’s entire family entered the world of the performing
arts, working both onstage and offstage. Victor preferred to be in the spot-
lights, so he studied his entire life to become an “old Hollywood” kind of artist.
Like Fred Astaire or Gene Kelly, he’s not only a good actor, but also an out-
standing singer and dancer. He has been travelling all around the world with
his theatre company and knows practically everyone in the show business.
Next year he’s starting a new production with his besties, Sir Ian McKellen
and Sir Patrick Stewart. Victor is not jealous, but I think he would love to be
named Sir as well.

SK
ILL LEVEL * EYE WHITES Fasten off and weave in the yarn end on
the first eye. Repeat rounds 1 to 5 for
the second eye, but do not cut the yarn
*

Size: (make 2, in white) as we will be joining the eyes in the next


10.5 inches / 26 cm Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
round to make the head.
tall when made with Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 6: ch 6, sc into the last st of the first
the indicated yarn Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a eye, sc in next 17 st of the first eye, sc in
long tail for sewing. Insert the safety next 6 ch, sc in next 18 st of the second
Materials: eyes in the center of the eye whites, eye, sc in next 6 ch [48]
– DK or light worsted but don’t close the washers yet. Rnd 7: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
weight yarn in repeat 6 times [54]
· sage green Rnd 8 – 14: sc in all 54 st [54]
· white
HEAD AND BODY
Insert the safety eyes with the eye
· red
whites between rounds 4 and 5 of the
· yellow
· blue eyes on the head. Close the washers
· leftover of pink Note: For the undies I use the jacquard and sew the eye whites to the eyes.
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet technique, following the diagram Embroider the cheeks with pink yarn.
crochet hook enclosed. If you are not confident using Rnd 15: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st)
– Black safety eyes this technique, you can choose to repeat 6 times [60]
(10 mm) crochet the undies in one color. Rnd 16 – 26: sc in all 60 st [60]
– Fiberfill Continue in jacquard pattern, alternating
(start in sage green) white and red yarn (see the diagram
Note: the head and body Start with the first eye. page 93).
are worked in one piece.
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 27 – 33: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 18 st [18]

90
91
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

LEGS single crochet stitch (this sc will be the


first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches
unworked stitch at the back of
round 33. This is where Rndwe7start
of the first leg are joined in the round. the first stitch of the second leg.
Rnd 6
Rnd 34: sc in all 15 st. When you
To make the legs, divide the work, Continue working the first leg:
identifying 15 stitches for the central Rnd 34: sc in all 15 st [15] reach the 15th st of the Rndleg,5 sc in
space between the legs, 15 stitches Change to sage green yarn. first st to join the round [15]
for the back and 15 stitches for each Rnd 35: BLO sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 35 – 54: repeat Rnd
the4pattern
leg (you may find it useful to use stitch Rnd 36 – 54: sc in all 15 st [15] for the first leg. Rnd 3
markers). If the legs don’t line up Stuff the body and leg firmly. Fasten Stuff the second leg and add more
nicely with the head, crochet a few off, leaving a long tail for sewing. stuffing to the body Rnd 2
if needed.
more sc on the body or undo them. Using a tapestry needle,
Rnd 1 sew
Join the last stitch for the leg on the SECOND LEG the 15 stitches between the legs
back side to the front side, working a Rejoin the white yarn in the 16th closed. 1 sc

92
FLIPPERS
(make 2, in yellow)
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 9 – 18: sc in all 20 st [20]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the flippers and,
using a tapestry needle, close the opening in the last round. Sew the flippers
to the legs.

Rnd 34
Rnd 33
Rnd 32
Rnd 31
Rnd 30
Rnd 29
Rnd 28
Rnd 27

11 sc 6 sc 1 sc

repeat
pattern
93
ARMS
(make 2, in sage green)
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 3 – 20: sc in all 10 st [10]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill.
Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 14 and 15.

FINGERS
(in sage green)
Insert the hook into a stitch of round 1, pull up a loop and ch 6.
Row 1: start in second ch from hook, slst in next 5 st [5]
Join with a slst to the next st of the arm. Ch 6 and repeat row 1
two more times. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

SHORTS
(start in white)
Ch 60. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook
in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with
a slst. Continue working in a spiral in a stripe pattern,
changing color every round, alternating white and blue.
Rnd 1 – 8: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 9: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66]
Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 66 st [66]

94
SHORTS LEGS
To make the shorts legs, divide the work, iden- SECOND SHORTS LEG
tifying 15 stitches for the central space be- Rejoin the white yarn in the 16th unworked stitch at the back of
tween the legs, 15 stitches for the back and 18 round 12. This is where we start the first stitch of the second
stitches for each shorts leg (you may find it use- shorts leg.
ful to use stitch markers). Join the last stitch for Rnd 13 – 17: repeat the pattern for the first shorts leg.
the shorts leg on the back side to the front side, Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry needle, sew
working a single crochet stitch (this will be the the 15 stitches between the legs closed.
first stitch of the trouser leg). Now the stitches
of the first shorts leg are joined in the round. WAISTBAND
Continue working the first shorts leg: (in white)
Rnd 13 – 16: sc in all 18 st [18] Join white yarn in the first stitch of round 1.
Rnd 17: slst in all 18 st [18] Rnd 1: slst in all 60 st [60]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

95
George started his career as a journalist, but his real dream has always been
to become a science fiction/fantasy novel writer. George didn’t quit his day
job, because he knows being a professional writer is not a walk in the park.
But he’s not giving up on his dream, so he dedicates all of his free time to
writing his first novel. George has already published some short stories
about time travels and space, his favorite subjects. And, although almost no-
body knows (as George is very shy and doesn’t talk about himself that much),
he’s also a great rock ‘n’ roll guitar player and he would love to have his own
band. He already has a name for it: Enchanted under the Sea.

SK
ILL LEVEL * BEAK HEAD AND BODY
*

Size:
SMALL PART ATTACHED TO THE HEAD (in brown)
10 inches / 25 cm tall (in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
when made with the Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
indicated yarn Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat repeat 6 times [18]
Materials: 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
– DK or light worsted Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat repeat 6 times [24]
weight yarn in 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
· brown Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat repeat 6 times [30]
· charcoal gray
6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
· white
Rnd 6 – 9: sc in all 30 st [30] repeat 6 times [36]
· yellow
· pink Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
· light gray Do not stuff the beak. repeat 6 times [42]
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
crochet hook LARGE PART repeat 6 times [48]
– Black safety eyes (in charcoal gray) Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
(8 mm) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] repeat 6 times [54]
– Fiberfill Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 10 – 18: sc in all 54 st [54]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 Rnd 19: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st)
Note: the head and body times [18] repeat 6 times [60]
are worked in one piece.
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 20 – 26: sc in all 60 st [60]
6 times [24] Sew the small part of the beak to the head,
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat between rounds 10 and 19. Sew the large
6 times [30] part of the beak onto this small part. Insert
Rnd 6 – 15: sc in all 30 st [30] the safety eyes between rounds 11 and
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. 18, about 2 stitches away from the beak.
Do not stuff the beak. Embroider the cheeks with pink yarn.

96
97
Rnd 27: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 28 – 40: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 5: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 41: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 42 – 44: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 7 – 14: sc in all 20 st [20]
Rnd 45: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Fasten off. The feet do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and,
Rnd 46 – 50: sc in all 54 st [54] using a tapestry needle, close the opening in the last round.

LEGS ARMS
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 9 (make 2, start in charcoal gray)
stitches for the central space between the legs, Start with the fingers, make 3.
9 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each leg Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
(you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6]
legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few Fasten off the first and second finger. For the third finger,
more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch repeat rounds 1-4, but do not fasten off as we will be joining
for the leg on the back side to the front side, working the fingers together to make the hand.
a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of Rnd 5: join the third and second finger with a sc, sc in next
the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in 2 st of the second finger. Insert the hook into the first finger,
the round. Continue working the first leg: sc in all 6 st. Insert the hook back into the second finger, sc in
Rnd 51 – 53: sc in all 18 st [18] leftover 3 st, insert the hook back in the third finger, sc in all
Rnd 54: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15] 6 st [18]
Rnd 55 – 56: sc in all 15 st [15] Close the gap between the fingers using the leftover yarn tails.
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Stuff the body and leg firmly. Fasten off, leaving a Rnd 6: sc in all 18 st [18]
long tail for sewing. Do not close. Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15]
Change to brown yarn.
SECOND LEG Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rejoin the brown yarn in the 10th unworked stitch at Rnd 11: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [12]
the back of round 50. This is where we start the first Rnd 12 – 17: sc in all 12 st [12]
stitch of the second leg. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with fiber-
Rnd 51: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th fill. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 23 and 24.
stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [18]
Rnd 52 – 56: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the
body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 9 TROUSERS
stitches between the legs closed.
(start in white)
Ch 66. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in

FEET the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst.
Continue working in a spiral in a stripes pattern (2 rounds in
white, 2 rounds in yellow).
(make 2, in charcoal gray) Rnd 1 – 7: sc in all 66 st [66]
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 8: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [72]
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 9: sc in all 72 st [72]
Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 10: sc in next 4 st, ch 14, skip next 14 st, sc in next 54 st [72]

98
99
Rnd 11 – 15: sc in all 72 st [72]
Rnd 16: (sc in next 10 st, dec) repeat 6 times [66] TAIL
Rnd 17: sc in all 66 st [66]
(in brown)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

TROUSER LEGS Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]


Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6
times [18]
To make the trouser legs, divide the work, identifying 9 Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat
stitches for the central space between the legs, 9 stitches 6 times [24]
for the back and 24 stitches for each trouser leg (you may Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat
find it useful to use stitch markers). Make sure the gap for 6 times [30]
the tail is at the back. Join the last stitch for the trouser leg Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat
on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet 6 times [36]
stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the trouser leg). Now Rnd 7 – 12: sc in all 36 st [36]
the stitches of the first trouser leg are joined in the round. Rnd 13: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 4 times [32]
Continue working the first trouser leg: Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 32 st [32]
Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 16: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 4 times [28]
Rnd 21: slst in all 24 st [24] Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 28 st [28]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Rnd 19: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 4 times [24]
Rnd 20 – 24: sc in all 24 st [24]
SECOND LEG Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff
Rejoin the yellow yarn in the 10th unworked stitch at the with fiberfill. Sew the tail to the body, taking into
back of round 17. This is where we start the first stitch of Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
account the position of the gap in the trousers.
the second trouser leg.
Rnd 18 – 21: repeat the pattern for the first trouser leg.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry
needle, sew the 9 stitches between the legs closed. BOW TIE
WAISTBAND (in pink)
(in light gray) Ch 15. Crochet in rows.
Join pink yarn in the first stitch of round 1. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next
Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 66 st [66] 14 st, ch 1, turn [14]
Rnd 3: slst in all 66 st [66] Row 2 – 7: BLO sc in next 14 st, ch 1, turn [14]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

MIDDLE RIBBON BAND


(in pink)
Ch 10.
Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next
9 st [9]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew
the middle ribbon band around the center of the
bow tie. Sew the bow tie underneath the beak.

100
101
Marcos was born in Misiones, Argentina. Like his father, who’s a renowned
entomologist, Marcos works as a park ranger in the Iguazú National Park. He's
a specialist in the native flora and the history of the lands that surround the
park (but he doesn’t like bugs). He’s also a football fan – a Boca Juniors fan,
naturally – and cannot live a day without having mate and like a dozen chipá
(an infused herb beverage and cheese bread rolls, both traditional Guaraní).
Lately, he has gained a few extra pounds. Maybe more than a dozen chipá
per day is a little too much after all.

SK
ILL LEVEL * SNOUT
*

(start in black)
Size:
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
12 inches / 30 cm tall
when made with the
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

indicated yarn (ears Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
included) Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 15 st [15]
Change to orange yarn.
Materials: Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15]
– DK or light worsted Rnd 8: sc in next 6 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 6 st [18]
weight yarn in Rnd 9: sc in all 18 st [18]
· orange Continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and orange). The color you work
· off-white with is indicated before each line.
· black
Rnd 10: (off-white) sc in next 5 st, (orange) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st [18]
· white
Rnd 11: (off-white) sc in next 5 st (orange) sc in next 2 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st)
· petrol blue
· yellow repeat 3 times, (off-white) sc in next 5 st [21]
· pink Rnd 12: (off-white) sc in next 5 st, (orange) sc in next 11 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st [21]
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the mouth with black yarn. Stuff
crochet hook the snout lightly with fiberfill.
– Black safety eyes
(8 mm)

HEAD AND BODY


– Fiberfill

Note: the head and body


are worked in one piece.
(start in orange)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]

102
103
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 28: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 29 – 31: sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 32: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 33 – 37: sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Change to orange yarn.
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 38: BLO sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 10 – 13: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 39 – 43: sc in all 36 st [36]
In the next rounds, we continue working with alternating
yarns (off-white and orange). The color you work with
is indicated before each line.
Rnd 14: (orange) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next LEGS
8 st, (orange) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st,
(orange) sc in next 14 st [54] To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches
Rnd 15: (orange) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the
10 st, (orange) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful
10 st, (orange) sc in next 13 st [54] to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with
Rnd 16 – 17: (orange) sc in next 22 st, (off-white) sc in the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo
next 10 st, (orange) sc in next 22 st [54] them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to
Rnd 18: (orange) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will
2 st, (orange) sc in next 7 st, (off-white) sc in next be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first
10 st, (orange) sc in next 7 st, (off-white) sc in next 2 st, leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg:
(orange) sc in next 13 st [54] Rnd 44 – 67: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 19 – 20: (orange) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in Stuff the body and leg firmly.
next 30 st, (orange) sc in next 12 st [54] Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
Rnd 68: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10]
Rnd 21: (orange) (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times, Rnd 69: dec 5 times [5]
(off-white) (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 5 times, (orange) Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
(sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times [45] weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each re-
Rnd 22: (orange) (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times, maining stitch and pull it tight to close the gap. Weave in
(off-white) (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times, (orange) the yarn end.
(sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [36]
Rnd 23: (orange) sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, (off- SECOND LEG
white) sc in next 2 st, (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times, Rejoin the orange yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at
sc in next 4 st, (orange) dec, sc in next 4 st, dec [30] the back of round 43. This is where we start the first
Sew the snout between rounds 16 and 21. The snout stitch of the second leg.
must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the Rnd 44: sc in all 15 st. When you reach the 15th stitch of
round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 17 and the leg, sc in first st to join the round [15]
18, about 4 stitches away from the snout. Rnd 45 – 69: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
Rnd 24: (orange) sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, (off- Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body
white) sc in next st, dec, (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches
times, (orange) sc in next 3 st, dec [24] between the legs closed.
Rnd 25: (orange) sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, (off-
white) dec, (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 3 times, (orange)
sc in next 2 st, dec [18]
Rnd 26: (orange) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next ARMS
10 st, (orange) sc in next 3 st [18]
Continue in a stripe pattern, changing the color every (make 2, start in orange)
round, alternating between white and petrol blue. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]

104
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first
Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next shorts leg:
10 st [12] Rnd 9 – 12: sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 6 – 17: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 13: slst in all 18 st [18]
Continue in a stripe pattern, changing the color every Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
round, alternating between white and petrol blue.
Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12] SECOND SHORTS LEG
Rnd 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Rejoin the yellow yarn in the fourth unworked stitch
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. at the back of round 8. This is where we start the first
Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 28 and 29. stitch of the second shorts leg.
Rnd 9 – 13: repeat the pattern for the first shorts leg.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry

EARS needle, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed.

WAISTBAND
(make 2, start in off-white) (in pink)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Join pink yarn in the first stitch of round 1.
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 42 st [42]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 3: slst in all 42 st [42]
Rnd 4: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
Change to orange yarn.
Rnd 5 – 8: sc in all 18 st [18]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not
need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears before sewing.

SHORTS TAIL
(in yellow) (start in orange)
Ch 42. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 3: sc in next 32 st, ch 9, skip next 9 st, sc in next st [42] Rnd 5 – 8: sc in all 20 st [20]
Rnd 4 – 8: sc in all 42 st [42] Change to black yarn and continue in a stripe pattern,
alternating 2 rounds in black yarn and 3 rounds in
orange yarn.

SHORTS LEGS Rnd 9 – 18: sc in all 20 st [20]


Rnd 19: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 2 times [18]
Rnd 20 – 28: sc in all 18 st [18]
To make the shorts legs, divide the work, identifying 3 Rnd 29: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 2 times [16]
stitches for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches Rnd 30 – 38: sc in all 16 st [16]
for the back and 18 stitches for each shorts leg (you may Rnd 39: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 2 times [14]
find it useful to use stitch markers). Join the last stitch Rnd 40 – 43: sc in all 14 st [14]
for the shorts leg on the back side to the front side, Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with
working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first fiberfill. Sew the tail to the body, taking into account the
stitch of the shorts leg). Now the stitches of the first shorts position of the gap in the shorts.

105
Don’t be fooled by her sweet and fragile appearance: Audrey really is a badass
comic artist, writer and illustrator. Maybe it’s because they also have horns,
or maybe it’s just because they’re awesome creatures, but her favorite
characters are dragons and unicorns … or any medieval or mythological
creature really. She especially loves the creatures in the legends of King
Arthur. Her next step is to write and produce animated series for her stories.
And, who knows, maybe she’ll also get to work on a couple of films.

SK
ILL LEVEL * SNOUT (ochre) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in
next 10 st [30]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for
*

(start in off-white) sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth


Size:
14.5 inches / 37 cm Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] with black yarn. Stuff the snout with
tall when made with Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
fiberfill.
the indicated yarn Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
(horns included) repeat 6 times [18]

HEAD AND BODY


Rnd 4: sc in all 18 st [18]
Materials: Continue working with alternating
– DK or light worsted colors (off-white and ochre). The color
weight yarn in you work with is indicated before each (start in ochre)
· ochre line. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
· off-white
Rnd 5: (off-white) sc in next 6 st, Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
· slate gray
(ochre) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
· dark gray
· pastel pink next 6 st [18] repeat 6 times [18]
· leftover of black Rnd 6: (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
· leftover of light pink next st) repeat 2 times, (ochre) (sc in repeat 6 times [24]
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
crochet hook (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next repeat 6 times [30]
– Black safety eyes st) repeat 2 times [24] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
(10 mm) Rnd 7 – 8: (off-white) sc in next 8 st, repeat 6 times [36]
– Fiberfill (ochre) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
next 8 st [24] repeat 6 times [42]
Note: the head and body
Rnd 9: (off-white) (sc in next 3 st, inc in Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
are worked in one piece.
next st) repeat 2 times, (ochre) (sc in repeat 6 times [48]
next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
(off-white) (sc in next 3 st, inc in next repeat 6 times [54]
st) repeat 2 times [30] Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st)
Rnd 10 – 11: (off-white) sc in next 10 st, repeat 6 times [60]

106
107
Rnd 11 – 14: sc in all 60 st [60]
Continue working with alternating colors (ochre and LEGS
off-white). The color you work with is indicated before
each line. To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches
Rnd 15: (ochre) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the
4 st, (ochre) sc in next 20 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may find it use-
(ochre) sc in next 16 st [60] ful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely
Rnd 16: (ochre) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo
8 st, (ochre) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to
(ochre) sc in next 14 st [60] the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will
Rnd 17 – 19: (ochre) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first
next 12 st, (ochre) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg:
12 st, (ochre) sc in next 12 st [60] Rnd 47 – 72: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 20: (ochre) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next Stuff the body and leg firmly.
10 st, (ochre) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, Rnd 73: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10]
(ochre) sc in next 13 st [60] Rnd 74: dec 5 times [5]
Rnd 21: (ochre) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
8 st, (ochre) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remain-
(ochre) sc in next 14 st [60] ing stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
Continue in ochre yarn.
Rnd 22: sc in all 60 st [60] SECOND LEG
Rnd 23: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48] Rejoin the ochre yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the
Rnd 24: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] back of round 46. This is where we start the first stitch of
Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
the second leg.
Sew the snout between rounds 15 and 24. The snout Rnd 47: sc in all 15 st. When you reach the 15th st of the
must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the leg, sc in first stitch to join the round [15]
round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 18 and Rnd 48 – 74: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
19, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body
Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches
Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] between the legs closed.
Rnd 28: sc in all 18 st [18]
Stuff the head firmly. Change to slate gray yarn.
Rnd 29: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 30: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 31 – 33: sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 34: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 35 – 40: sc in all 36 st [36]
Change to ochre yarn.
Rnd 41: BLO sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 42 – 46: sc in all 36 st [36]

108
ARMS Sew the inner ear to the center of the inside of the ochre
ear. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears to the head.

(make 2, in ochre)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] HORNS
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next (make 2, in dark gray)
10 st [12] Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 6 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
Rnd 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Rnd 3: inc in next 5 st [10]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Rnd 4 – 20: sc in all 10 st [10]
Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 30 and 31. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.

OUTER EARS TAIL


(make 2, in ochre) (in ochre)
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over
Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] round 43.
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 8: sc in all 20 st [20]
Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [25]
Rnd 10 – 17: sc in all 25 st [25] SKIRT
Rnd 18: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 20 st [20] (in pastel pink)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not Ch 42. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the
need to be stuffed. hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain
with a slst. Continue working in a spiral.
Rnd 1: sc in all 42 st [42]

INNER EARS Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 3: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54]
Rnd 4: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]
(make 2, in off-white) Rnd 5 – 8: sc in all 60 st [60]
Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the Rnd 9: slst in all 60 st [60]
foundation chain. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, inc in this st, sc in
next 10 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the WAISTBAND
foundation chain, sc in next 11 st [26] (in light pink)
Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next 3 st, Join light pink yarn in the first stitch of round 1 of the skirt.
sc in next 10 st, inc in last st [32] Rnd 1: sc in all 42 st [42]
Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Rnd 2: slst in all 42 st [42]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

109
Harry may look a bit like a hipster, but he claims he’s been fashionable and
good-looking since he was a teeny-tiny puppy. He also claims to have loved
music ever since his puppy days. Harry likes all kinds of music, from all
decades and from all around the world. He has dedicated his entire life to
learning and writing about music. Harry is also learning to play the accordion
and the bagpipes, just because he thinks they’re the most quirky and unique
instruments around. Perhaps he’s a bit of a hipster after all.

SK
ILL LEVEL * SNOUT HEAD AND BODY
*

Size: (start in off-white) (start in ash gray)


13 inches / 33 cm tall Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
when made with the Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
indicated yarn (ears Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
included) 6 times [18] repeat 6 times [18]
Continue working with alternating yarns Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
Materials: (off-white and ash gray). The color you repeat 6 times [24]
– DK or light worsted work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
weight yarn in Rnd 4 – 5: (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (ash gray) repeat 6 times [30]
· ash gray
sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [18] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
· off-white
· ochre
Rnd 6: (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in repeat 6 times [36]
· brown next st) repeat 2 times, (ash gray) (sc in Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
· light blue next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, repeat 6 times [42]
· leftover of pastel pink (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
· leftover of black repeat 2 times [24] repeat 6 times [48]
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm Rnd 7 – 9: (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (ash Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st)
crochet hook gray) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next repeat 6 times [54]
– Black safety eyes 8 st [24] Rnd 10: sc in all 54 st [54]
(10 mm) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Continue working with alternating yarns
– Fiberfill Embroider the nose and mouth with black (ash gray and off-white). The color you
yarn. Stuff the snout with fiberfill. work with is indicated before each line.
Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.

110
111
Rnd 11: (ash gray) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in repeat 3 times, dec, sc in next 7 st [68]
next 6 st, (ash gray) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in Rnd 20: sc in next 7 st, dec 7 times, sc in next 26 st, dec
next 6 st, (ash gray) sc in next 13 st [54] 7 times, sc in next 7 st [54]
Rnd 12: (ash gray) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
next 9 st, (ash gray) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in Rnd 22: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
next 9 st, (ash gray) sc in next 12 st [54] Rnd 23: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 21. Insert the safety
eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 3 stitches away
from the snout.
Rnd 24: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 25: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 26: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 27: sc in all 18 st [18]
Stuff the head. Change to ochre yarn.
Rnd 28: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 29: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 30 – 32: sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 33: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 34 – 37: sc in all 36 st [36]
Change to ash gray yarn.
Rnd 38: BLO sc in all 36 st [36]
Rnd 39 – 43: sc in all 36 st [36]

LEGS
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 2 stitches for


the central space between the legs, 2 stitches for the back
and 16 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use
stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head,
crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the
last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side,
Rnd 13: (ash gray) sc in next 11 st, (off-white) sc in working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch
next 11 st, (ash gray) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the
sc in next 11 st, (ash gray) sc in next 11 st [54] round. Continue working the first leg:
Rnd 14 – 16: (ash gray) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) Rnd 44 – 67: sc in all 16 st [16]
sc in next 14 st, (ash gray) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) Stuff the body and leg firmly.
sc in next 14 st, (ash gray) sc in next 10 st [54] Rnd 68: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12]
Continue in off-white yarn. Rnd 69: dec 6 times [6]
Rnd 17: sc in next 7 st, inc in next 7 st, sc in next Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave
26 st, inc in next 7 st, sc in next 7 st [68] the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch
Rnd 18: sc in next 8 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 27 st, (inc in
next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, SECOND LEG
sc in next 7 st [76] Rejoin the ash gray yarn in the third unworked stitch at the
Rnd 19: sc in next 8 st, (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat back of round 43. This is where we start the first stitch of the
3 times, dec, sc in next 27 st, (dec, sc in next 3 st) second leg.

112
Rnd 44: sc in all 16 st. When you reach the 16th stitch of Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
the leg, sc in first st to join the round [16] Rnd 8: sc in all 24 st [24]
Rnd 45 – 69: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body Rnd 10 – 15: sc in all 30 st [30]
if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 2 stitches Rnd 16: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 5 times [25]
between the legs closed. Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 25 st [25]
Rnd 19: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 20 st [20]

ARMS Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 23 – 24: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 25: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10]
(make 2, start in ash gray) Rnd 26 – 29: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail.
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 40.
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12]
Rnd 6 – 16: sc in all 12 st [12]
Change to ochre yarn. CHEEKS
Rnd 17 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] (make 2, in pastel pink)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8]
Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 28 and 29. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the
cheeks to the head.

EARS SCARF / COWL


(make 2, in ash gray)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] (in brown)
Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Ch 40. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the
Rnd 3: inc in all 6 st [12] hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation
Rnd 4: sc in all 12 st [12] chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral.
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 1 – 10: hdc in all 40 st [40]
Rnd 6 – 12: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider
off-white stripes. Flatten before sewing.

MITTENS
TAIL (make 2, in light blue)
Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8]
(in ash gray) Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16]
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 16 st [16]
Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 6-dc-bobble st in next st, sc in next
Rnd 3: inc in all 6 st [12] 14 st [16]
Rnd 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 16 st [16]
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 8: single rib crochet in all 16 st [16]
Rnd 6: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

113
The first thing you’ll noticed about Hector is that he loves to be a tourist in the
most touristy way: flowered T-shirts, shorts and that “vacation mode” way of
living, just chilling by the pool, watching the birds fly by.
As a child, Hector spent hours and hours watching the animals of the savannah,
especially the oxpeckers, the birds that accompanied him everywhere he went.
Now, that ability to stay still for hours and pass unnoticed as a tourist is what
allows him to do his work. Hector is an ethologist you see, he studies animal
behavior in their natural habitats (much like an anthropologist or sociologist,
but for animals).

KI
LL LEVEL ** HEAD AND BODY Rnd 9: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
repeat 11 times [77]
Rnd 10 – 20: sc in all 77 st [77]
S

Note: For the undies I use the jacquard Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat
Size:
13.5 inches / 34 cm crochet technique, following the diagram 3 times, sc in next 45 st, (dec, sc in next
tall when made with enclosed. If you are not confident using this
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
3 st) repeat 3 times, dec [70]
the indicated yarn technique, you can choose to crochet the Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat
(ears included) undies in one color. 2 times, sc in next 54 st, (dec, sc in next
2 st) repeat 2 times [66]
Materials: (start in gray) Rnd 23: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6
– DK or light worsted Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] times [60]
weight yarn in Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 24: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3
· gray
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat times, sc in next 42 st, (dec, sc in next
· off-white
6 times [18] st) repeat 3 times [54]
· white
· yellow Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 25: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3
· green 6 times [24] times, sc in next 36 st, (dec, sc in next
· light blue Rnd 5: ch 13. Place the stitch marker in the st) repeat 3 times [48]
· leftover of pink next stitch you’ll make, as this is going to be Rnd 26: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6
· leftover of brown the beginning of each round from this point. times [42]
· leftover of avocado Crochet back on the chain: inc in second ch Insert the safety eyes between rounds
green from hook, sc in next 11 st, sc in the stitch 16 and 17, with an interspace of 44
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm where the foundation chain starts, continue stitches.
crochet hook on the head, sc next 24 st, continue on the Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat
– Black safety eyes
other side of the chain, sc in next 11 st, inc 3 times, sc in next 18 st, (dec, sc in next
(8 mm)
in last st [51] 2 st) repeat 3 times [36]
– Fiberfill
Rnd 6: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 47 st, inc in Rnd 28: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6
Note: the head and body next 2 st [55] times [30]
are worked in one piece. Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat Rnd 29: sc in next 15 st [15]
11 times [66] Do not finish this round. Place the
Rnd 8: sc in all 66 st [66] stitch marker in the next st, as this is

114
115
going to be the beginning of each round from this point SECOND LEG
(the back of the rhinoceros head). Rejoin the yellow yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at
Rnd 30: sc in all 30 st [30] the back of round 54. This is where we start the first
Change to white yarn. stitch of the second leg.
Rnd 31: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 56: sc in all 21 st. When you reach the 21th stitch of
Rnd 32: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] the leg, sc in first stitch to join the round [21]
Rnd 33 – 37: sc in all 42 st [42] Change to gray yarn.
Rnd 38: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 57 – 74: repeat the pattern for the first leg.
Rnd 39 – 43: sc in all 48 st [48] Add more stuffing if needed. Using a tapestry needle,
Rnd 44: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed.
Embroider the embellishments on the T-shirt. Change to
yellow yarn.
Rnd 45: BLO sc in all 54 st [54]
Continue in jacquard pattern, alternating yellow and light LARGE HORN
blue yarn (see the diagram on page 119).
Rnd 46 – 47: sc in all 54 st [54] (in gray)
Rnd 48: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 49 – 51: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
Rnd 52: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 53: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 54: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 6: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 55: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20]

LEGS
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Rnd 12: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [25]
Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 25 st [25]
Rnd 15: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [30]
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches Rnd 16: sc in all 30 st [30]
for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill.
back and 21 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful
to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with
the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them.
Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front SMALL HORN
side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the
first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are (in gray)
joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic
Rnd 56: sc in all 21 st [21] ring [5]
Change to gray yarn. Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
Rnd 57: BLO sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 58 – 72: sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10]
Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next
Rnd 73: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 7 times [14] st) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 74: dec 7 times [7] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, Fasten off, leaving a long tail
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remain- for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill.
ing stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.

116
117
EARS TROUSER LEGS
(make 2, in gray) To make the trouser legs, divide the work, identifying
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5 ] 3 stitches for the central space between the legs,
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] 3 stitches for the back and 27 stitches for each trouser
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). Join
Rnd 4 – 8: sc in all 15 st [15] the last stitch for the trouser leg on the back side to the
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will
need to be stuffed. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the be the first stitch of the trouser leg). Now the stitches
ears on top of the head over rounds 3 to 5. of the first trouser leg are joined in the round. Continue
working the first trouser leg, changing color every round:
Rnd 15 – 21: sc in all 27 st [27]

ARMS Rnd 22: slst in all 27 st [27]


Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

(make 2, start in gray) SECOND LEG


Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rejoin the white yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] back of round 14. This is where we start the first stitch
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] of the second trouser leg.
Rnd 4: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 15 – 22: repeat the pattern for the first trouser leg.
Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry
13 st [15] Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
needle, close the opening of the body sewing the 3
Rnd 6 – 16: sc in all 15 st [15] stitches between the legs closed.
Change to off-white yarn.
Rnd 17 – 21: sc in all 15 st [15] WAISTBAND
Rnd 22: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] (in yellow)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with Join yellow yarn in the first stitch of round 1.
fiberfill. Embroider embellishments on the T-shirt sleeve. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 54 st [54]
Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 31 and 32. Rnd 3: slst in all 54 st [54]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

TROUSERS
CHEEKS
(start in white)
Ch 54. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the (make 2, in pink)
hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
with a slst. Continue working in a spiral in a stripe pattern, Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
changing color every round, alternating white and green. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the cheeks
Rnd 1 – 4: sc in all 54 st [54] to the head.
Rnd 5: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]
Rnd 6 – 14: sc in all 60 st [60]

118
HECTOR RHINOCEROS JACQUARD

Rnd 55
Rnd 54
Rnd 53
Rnd 52
Rnd 51
Rnd 50
Rnd 49
Rnd 48
Rnd 47
Rnd 46
Rnd 45
Rnd 44
4 sc 1 sc
repeat pattern

119
Charles always liked toys, even long after passing the age where having toys is
considered normal. Therefore, becoming a toy maker was the natural path for
him. As his family is in the construction business, he could easily get a lot of
materials to work with.
In order to master his craft, he had to learn it all by himself. Luckily, Charles
loves books … and you can find anything you need to learn in books. So he
started making construction sets, and with time and practice, Charles made
more elaborated toys, such as dollhouses and small furniture, trains and all
kinds of toy animals.
Lately, he’s been really excited because he’s learning how to make mechanical
toys and automatons. Because you can always learn something new when
reading books!

KI
LL LEVEL ** BEAK
S

Size:
(in blue) Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

8.5 inches / 21.5 cm Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]


tall when made with the Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
indicated yarn (crest Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st [7]
feathers included) Rnd 4: sc in all 7 st [7]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st [9]
Materials: Rnd 6: sc in all 9 st [9]
– DK or light worsted Rnd 7: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st [11]
weight yarn in Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 11 st [11]
· red
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the beak lightly with fiberfill.
· off-white
· blue
· light blue
· leftover of pastel
pink HEAD AND BODY
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm
crochet hook (start in red)
– Black safety eyes Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
(10 mm) Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
– Fiberfill Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Note: the head and body
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
are worked in one piece.
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 9 – 10: sc in all 48 st [48]

120
121
Continue working with alternate colors (red and off-white). Rnd 32: sc in all 65 st [65]
The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 33: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 19 st, dec, sc in
Rnd 11: (red) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, next 10 st, dec, sc in next 21 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [61]
(red) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (red) sc in Rnd 34: sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in
next 10 st [48] next 23 st [59]
Rnd 12: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, Rnd 35: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 19 st, dec, sc in
(red) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (red) next 10 st, dec, sc in next 16 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [55]
sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 36: sc in next 23 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in
Rnd 13: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 11 st, next 18 st [53]
(red) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 11 st, (red) sc in Rnd 37: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 22 st, dec, sc in
next 9 st [48] next 19 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [50]
Rnd 14: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, Rnd 38: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 40 st, dec, sc in
(red) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (red) sc in next 3 st [48]
next 9 st [48] Rnd 39: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 15: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 13 st, Stuff the body firmly.
(red) sc in next 4 st, (off-white) sc in next 13 st, (red) sc in Rnd 40: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
next 9 st [48] Rnd 41: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 16: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 30 st, Rnd 42: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
(red) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 43: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Cut the red yarn, continue in off-white, blue and light blue Rnd 44: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times[12]
yarn as indicated. Rnd 45: dec 6 times [6]
Rnd 17: (blue) sc in next 9 st, (light blue) sc in next 9 st, Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Add more stuffing if needed.
(off-white) sc in next 12 st, (light blue) sc in next 9 st, Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the
(blue) sc in next 9 st [48] Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to
Rnd 18: (blue) sc in next 9 st, (light blue) sc in next 10 st, close. Weave in the yarn end.
(off-white) sc in next 10 st, (light blue) sc in next 10 st, Use pastel pink yarn to embroider V-shaped details on
(blue) sc in next 9 st [48] the chest and a horizontal line underneath the eye.
Rnd 19: (blue) sc in next 9 st, (light blue) sc in next 11 st,
(off-white) sc in next 8 st, (light blue) sc in next 11 st,
(blue) sc in next 9 st [48]
Sew the beak between rounds 13 and 16. Insert the WINGS
safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, about 5 stitches
away from the beak. Cut the off-white yarn. (make 2, start in blue)
Rnd 20 – 26: (blue) sc in next 9 st, (light blue) sc in next We work in a stripe pattern, alternating 2 rounds in blue
30 st, (blue) sc in next 9 st [48] yarn and 2 rounds in off-white yarn.
Rnd 27: ch 7. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch, as Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
this is going to be the beginning of each round from this Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
point on. Crochet back on the chain: inc in second ch from Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
hook, sc in next 5 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
chain starts, continue on the body, sc in next 48 st (alter- Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
nating blue and light blue alike in the previous rounds, Rnd 6 – 14: sc in all 30 st [30]
as they appear), continue on the other side of the chain, Rnd 15: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
sc in next 5 st, inc in last st [63] Rnd 16 – 18: sc in all 24 st [24]
Continue alternating blue and light blue as they appear Rnd 19: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 28: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 59 st, inc in next 2 st [67] Rnd 20 – 22: sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 29 – 30: sc in all 67 st [67] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The wings do
Rnd 31: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 57 st, dec, sc in next not need to be stuffed. Flatten the wings. Sew the wings
3 st [65] diagonally on both sides, between rounds 17 and 22.

122
CREST FEATHERS
(make 3, in red)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15]
Rnd 8: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [12]
Rnd 10: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 11: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 3 times [9]
Rnd 12: sc in all 9 st [9]
Stuff lightly with fiberfill.
Rnd 13: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3 times [6]
Rnd 14: sc in all 6 st [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Leave a long
tail to attach the feathers.

TAIL
(in blue)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 12 st [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not
need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over
rounds 29 to 30.

FEET
(make 2, in blue)
Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8]
Rnd 2: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [8]
Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with
fiberfill. Sew the feet to the front, over rounds 36 to 39.

123
Just like one of her best friends – Murray Sea Otter – Bonny was born by the
sea and only leaves her islands to sail. Since she was a chick, Bonny has been
fascinated by the boats, ships and yachts that sailed on the sea, so she studied
very, very hard to become a naval architect (although she’s not such a big fan of
studying). Bonny specializes in sailing yachts because she loves to feel the wind
in the sails and the water under the hull.
Every once in a while, Bonny visits Murray and they go sailing up to Greenland.
For their next adventure, they’re planning a trip to warmer waters, like the
Caribbean Sea. Murray is really looking forward to seeing some of the sunken
ships and galleons. Bonny thinks that finding some treasures doesn’t sound bad
either.

KI
LL LEVEL ** BEAK HEAD AND BODY
S

(start in coral pink) (start in charcoal gray)


Size: Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

10 inches / 26 cm tall Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
when made with the Rnd 2: inc in next 5 st [10] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
indicated yarn Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st)
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Materials: repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st)
– DK or light worsted Rnd 5: sc in all 15 st [15] repeat 6 times [24]
weight yarn in Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st)
· charcoal gray repeat 5 times [20] repeat 6 times [30]
· off-white Change to slate gray yarn. Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)
· yellow
Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 20 st [20] repeat 6 times [36]
· coral pink
Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st)
· white
· wine red Rnd 9: sc in all 20 st [20] repeat 6 times [42]
· leftover of slate gray Fasten off, leaving a long tail for Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st)
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm sewing. Stuff lightly. Flatten the beak repeat 6 times [48]
crochet hook vertically before sewing. Rnd 9: sc in all 48 st [48]
– Black safety eyes Continue working with alternate
(10 mm) yarns (charcoal gray and off-white).

CHEEKS
– Fiberfill The color you work with is indicated
before each line.
Note: the head and body Rnd 10: (charcoal gray) sc in next
are worked in one piece.
(make 2, in coral pink) 13 st, (off-white) sc in next 22 st,
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] (charcoal gray) sc in next 13 st [48]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Rnd 11: (charcoal gray) sc in next 11 st,

124
125
(off-white) sc in next 26 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next Rnd 43: sc in all 70 st [70]
11 st [48] Rnd 44: sc in next 27 st, dec, sc in next 12 st, dec, sc in
Rnd 12: (charcoal gray) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 27 st [68]
next 28 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 10 st [48] Rnd 45: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 60 st, dec, sc in
Rnd 13: (charcoal gray) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 2 st [66]
next 30 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 46: sc in next 27 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in
Rnd 14: (charcoal gray) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 27 st [64]
next 32 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 8 st [48] Rnd 47: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 56 st, dec, sc in
Rnd 15: (charcoal gray) sc in next 7 st, (off-white) sc in next 2 st [62]
next 34 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 7 st [48] Rnd 48: sc in next 27 st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in
Rnd 16: (charcoal gray) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 27 st [60]
next 32 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 8 st [48] Rnd 49: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54]
Rnd 17: (charcoal gray) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in Stuff the head and body firmly with fiberfill.
next 30 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 50: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 18: (charcoal gray) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in Rnd 51: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
next 28 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 10 st [48] Rnd 52: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 19: (charcoal gray) sc in next 11 st, (off-white) sc in Rnd 53: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
next 26 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 11 st [48] Rnd 54: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 20: (charcoal gray) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in Rnd 55: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
next 22 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 13 st [48] Rnd 56: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 21: (charcoal gray) (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) Rnd 57: dec 6 times [6]
repeat 6 times [54] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Add more stuffing if needed.
Sew the beak between rounds 11 and 20, in the middle Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the
of the off-white patch. Insert the safety eyes between Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to
rounds 15 and 16, about 4 stitches from the beak. Using close. Weave in the yarn end.
black yarn, embroider a small line behind the eye. Sew
the little cheeks between rounds 17 and 20, about 1
stitch from the beak.
Continue in jacquard pattern, alternating white and WINGS
yellow (see the diagram).
Rnd 22 – 30: sc in all 54 st [54] (make 2, in charcoal gray)
Change to charcoal gray yarn. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 31 – 34: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 35: ch 6. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch. Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
This is going to be the beginning of each round from this Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
point on. Crochet back on the chain, sc in second ch from Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
hook, sc in next 5 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
chain starts, continue on the body, sc in next 54 st, con- Rnd 7 – 12: sc in all 36 st [36]
tinue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 4 st, inc in Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
last st [66] Flatten the wings. Sew the wings on both sides between
Rnd 36: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 62 st, inc in next 2 st [70] rounds 31 and 32.
Rnd 37: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 66 st, inc in next 2 st [74]
Rnd 38 – 39: sc in all 74 st [74]
Rnd 40: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 66 st, dec, sc in
next 2 st [72] LEGS
Rnd 41: sc in all 72 st [72]
Rnd 42: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 64 st, dec, sc in next (make 2, in coral pink)
2 st [70] The legs are crocheted in 2 parts.

126
LEG
Ch 10. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the
hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation
chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral.
Rnd 1 – 8: sc in all 10 st [10]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the leg.

FOOT Rnd 7
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 6
Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 5
Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) 4
repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 3
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 2
Fasten off, leaving a long tail forRnd
sewing.
1 Do not stuff.
Flatten and, using the leftover yarn tail, close the opening
1 scto the legs. Sew the legs to
in the last round. Sew the feet 11 sc 6 sc
the body, over rounds 51 to 54.
repeat
pattern

HAT
Rnd 19
(in wine red) Rnd 18
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 17
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 16
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 156 times [24]
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat
Rnd 146 times [30]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat
Rnd 136 times [36]
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat
Rnd 126 times [42] Rnd 9
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 11 Rnd 8
Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 48 st [48]
Rnd 10
Rnd 12 – 14: single rib crochet in all 48 st [48] Rnd 7
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Rnd 9 a pom-pom
Make
and sew it to the tip of the hat. Rnd 8 Rnd 6
Rnd 7 Rnd 5
Rnd 6
Rnd 4
Rnd 5
Rnd 4 Rnd 3
Rnd 3 Rnd 2
Rnd 2 Rnd 1
Rnd 1
6 sc 1 sc
4 sc 1 sc
repeat pattern
repeat
pattern 127
Hugo and his family are from India, and they prefer to be called “flying foxes”.
Hugo worked several years at the post office and eventually fell in love with
all the languages that are spoken in his home country – in India there are
about 30 official languages! Today, besides working as a postman (or postbat!),
Hugo works as a professional translator for several non-profit organizations
all around the world.
He really enjoys meeting new people from different cultures. But no matter
where he is or what job he’s doing, Hugo can’t do without a mango smoothie
with banana bread to start the day.

SK
ILL LEVEL * SNOUT
Size: (in petrol blue)
11.5 inches / 29 cm Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
tall (ears included) - Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
19.5 inches / 50 cm Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

long (wings wide open) Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 18 st [18]


when made with the Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose
indicated yarn and mouth with black yarn, and embroider two small teeth
using white yarn. Stuff the snout with fiberfill.
Materials:
– DK or light worsted
weight yarn in
· petrol blue
· aqua blue
HEAD AND BODY
· slate gray
· ochre (in petrol blue)
· white Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
· pastel pink Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
· leftover of black Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
crochet hook Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
– Black safety eyes Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
(8 mm)
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42]
– Fiberfill
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
Note: the head and body Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54]
are worked in one piece. Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]
Rnd 11 – 20: sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48]
Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36]
Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]

128
129
Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 19. The snout
must be placed on the opposite side of the start of ARMS
the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds
16 and 17, about 4 stitches away from the snout. (make 2, in petrol blue)
Embroider the cheeks with pastel pink. The arms are crocheted in 2 parts.
Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 25: sc in all 24 st [24] LONG PART
Stuff the head firmly. Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
Rnd 27: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 28 – 31: sc in all 36 st [36] Stuff with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 32: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 4 – 38: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 33 – 48: sc in all 42 st [42] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Rnd 49: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 50 – 51: sc in all 36 st [36] SHORT PART
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]

LEGS Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10]


Stuff with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.
Rnd 4 – 28: sc in all 10 st [10]
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 4 Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
stitches for the central space between the legs,
4 stitches for the back and 14 stitches for each leg
(you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the
legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a WINGS
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last


stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, (make 2, in aqua blue)
working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the Ch 26. Crochet in rows.
first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 25 st,
leg are joined in the round. Continue working the ch 1, turn [25]
first leg: Row 2: sc in next 24 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [26]
Rnd 52 – 56: sc in all 14 st [14] Row 3: sc in all 26 st, ch 1, turn [26]
Stuff the body and leg firmly. Row 4: sc in next 25 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [27]
Rnd 57: dec 7 times [7] Row 5: sc in all 27 st, ch 1, turn [27]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry Row 6: sc in next 26 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [28]
needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of Row 7: sc in all 28 st, ch 1, turn [28]
each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Row 8: sc in next 27 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [29]
Row 9: sc in all 29 st, ch 1, turn [29]
SECOND LEG Row 10: sc in next 28 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [30]
Rejoin the petrol blue yarn in the fifth unworked Row 11: sc in all 30 st, ch 1, turn [30]
stitch at the back of round 51. This is where we start Row 12: sc in next 29 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [31]
the first stitch of the second leg. Row 13: sc in all 31 st, ch 1, turn [31]
Rnd 52: sc in all 14 st. When you reach the 14th stitch Row 14: sc in next 30 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [32]
of the leg, sc in the first st to join into the round [14] Row 15: sc in all 32 st, ch 1, turn [32]
Rnd 53 – 57: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Row 16: sc in next 31 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [33]
Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the Row 17: sc in all 33 st, ch 1, turn [33]
body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 4 Row 18: sc in next 32 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [34]
stitches between the legs closed. Row 19: sc in all 34 st, ch 1, turn [34]

130
Row 20: sc in next 33 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [35] next st, ch 1, turn [16]
Row 21: sc in all 35 st, ch 1, turn [35] Row 33: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next st,
Row 22: dec, sc in next 32 st, inc in next st, ch 1, ch 1, turn [14]
turn [35] Row 34: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next st,
Row 23: sc in next 32 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, ch 1, turn [12]
turn [34] Row 35: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next st,
Row 24: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 28 st, dec, sc in ch 1, turn [10]
next st, ch 1, turn [32] Row 36: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next st,
Row 25: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in ch 1, turn [8]
next st, ch 1, turn [30] Row 37: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next st,
Row 26: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in ch 1, turn [6]
next st, ch 1, turn [28] Row 38: sc in next st, dec 2 times, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [4]
Row 27: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 22 st, dec, sc in Row 39: dec 2 times, ch 1, turn [2]
next st, ch 1, turn [26] Row 40: dec [1]
Row 28: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 20 st, dec, sc in Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
next st, ch 1, turn [24]
Row 29: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 18 st, dec, sc in ASSEMBLY OF THE WINGS
next st, ch 1, turn [22] Using the tapestry needle. Sew the longest side of the wing to
Row 30: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 16 st, dec, sc in the long part of the arm. Then, sew the short part of the arm
next st, ch 1, turn [20] to the long part of the arm, between rounds 6 and 10.
Row 31: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 14 st, dec, sc in Sew the other side of the wing to the short part of the arm.
next st, ch 1, turn [18] Sew the long part of the arm to the body, between rounds 27
Row 32: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 12 st, dec, sc in and 30. And, finally, sew the side of the wing to the body.

131
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

132
OUTER EARS SCARF
(make 2, in petrol blue) (in ochre)
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Ch 98. Crochet in rows
Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Row 1: sc in 4th ch from the hook, (ch 1, skip
Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] 1 ch, sc in next st) repeat to end, ch 2, turn.
Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Row 2: sc in the next ch-1 space (ch 1, sc in next
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] ch-1 space) repeat to end, finishing with a sc in the
Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] ch-3 space at the start of Row 1, ch 2, turn.
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Row 3 – 9: sc in next ch-1 space, (ch 1, sc in next
Rnd 8: sc in all 20 st [20] ch-1 space) repeat to end, finishing with a sc in
Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [25] the ch-2 space at the start of the previous row,
Rnd 10: sc in all 25 st [25] ch 2, turn.
Rnd 11: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [30] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Make 6
Rnd 12 – 18: sc in all 30 st [30] pompons, in white, pastel pink and slate gray. Sew
Rnd 19: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 5 times [25] 3 to the end of each side.
Rnd 20: sc in all 25 st [25]
Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 22: sc in all 20 st [20]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
Flatten the ears.

INNER EARS
(make 2, in slate gray)
Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the
foundation chain.
Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, inc in this st, sc in
next 10 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of
the foundation chain, sc in next 11 st [26]
Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next 3 st,
sc in next 10 st, inc in last st [32]
Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sew the inner ear to the center of the inside of the outer
ear. Sew the ears over rounds 3 to 12 of the head.

133
Marcia was born in the Patacancha Valley, in Peru. She’s a gifted crafter
from a large community of alpacas and vicuñas. Marcia works every day,
together with all the members of her village, to make sure that everyone has
a good and sustainable job. She has also been studying and collecting infor-
mation about all the ancient techniques of textile handicrafts and weavings
from her home country, quite a lot to learn if you take into account that Peru
has the longest tradition of textile production, going back over 10,000 years!

KI
LL LEVEL ** SNOUT
S

(in off-white)
Size:
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
14 inches / 35.5 cm tall
when made with the in- Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
dicated yarn (standing, Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

ears included) Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Materials: Rnd 6 – 9: sc in all 30 st [30]
– DK or light worsted Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the
weight yarn in mouth and nose with black yarn. Stuff the snout.
· mustard
· off-white
· colors of your
choice for the blan-
ket and ear tufts
HEAD AND BODY
· leftover of black
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm (in mustard yarn)
crochet hook Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
– Black safety eyes Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
(10 mm) Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
– Fiberfill Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Note: the head and body Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
are worked in one piece.
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54]
Rnd 10 – 18: sc in all 54 st [54]
Rnd 19: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
Rnd 20: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 21: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]

134
135
Rnd 22: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 23: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 21. The snout must be placed on the opposite
side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about
4 stitches away from the snout. Stuff the head with fiberfill.
Rnd 24 – 37: sc in all 24 st [24]
Stuff the neck firmly with fiberfill.
Rnd 38: ch 15. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch, as this is going to be the beginning
of each round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain: inc in second ch from hook,
sc in next 13 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the neck,
sc next 24 st, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 13 st, inc in last st [55]
Rnd 39: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 52 st, inc in next st [58]
Rnd 40: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 52 st, inc in next st, sc in
next st [61]
Rnd 41: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 54 st, inc in
next st, sc in next st [64]
Rnd 42: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 54 st,
inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [68]
Rnd 43 – 53: sc in all 68 st [68]

LEGS
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

(in mustard)
We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. FIRST FRONT LEG
Count 8 stitches along from the first back leg (this
FIRST BACK LEG will become the belly) and attach mustard yarn to
First, find the middle back stitch of the alpaca body. If you the 9th stitch.
are not already there, continue crocheting until that point. Sc in next 11 st, ch 7 and join the last ch and the first
Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch. sc stitch with a slst.
Sc in next 11 st, ch 7. Join the last ch and the stitch with the Rnd 1 – 13: repeat rounds 1-13 of the first back leg.
stitch marker by working a slst.
The leg will be formed with 11 sc of the body and the ch-7 SECOND FRONT LEG
foundation chain. Continue working the first back leg: Count 4 st to the left of the first front leg (this is the
Rnd 1: sc in next 18 st (11 on the body and 7 on the chain) [18] space between the legs) and attach mustard yarn to
Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 18 st [18] the 5th stitch.
Rnd 5: sc in next 16 st, dec [17] Sc in next 11 st, ch 7 and join the last ch and the first
Rnd 6: sc in all 17 st [17] sc stitch with a slst.
Rnd 7: sc in next 15 st, dec [16] Rnd 1 – 13: repeat rounds 1-13 of the first back leg.
Rnd 8: sc in all 16 st [16]
Rnd 9: sc in next 14 st, dec [15] SECOND BACK LEG
Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15] Count 8 st to the left of the second front leg (this is
Rnd 12: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] the other side of the belly) and attach mustard yarn
Rnd 13: dec 5 times [5] to the 9th stitch.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave Sc in next 11 st, ch 7 and join the last ch and the first
the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch sc stitch with a slst.
and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Rnd 1 – 13: repeat rounds 1-13 of the first back leg.

136
BELLY
Between the legs, you have 8 stitch spaces along the
sides and 4 stitch spaces at the front and back.
We make the belly by crocheting flaps on these stitches.
Start with the 8 stitch space along the side. Attach
mustard yarn to the first stitch next to the first leg you
made. Crochet in rows.
Row 1 – 14: sc in next 8 st, ch 1, turn [8]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS


For the back flap, attach mustard yarn to the first stitch
next to the last leg you made.
Crochet in rows.
Row 1 – 4: sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [4]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the flap
between the front legs in the same way.

ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY


Using a tapestry needle, sew the front flap to both front
legs and the back flap to both back legs.
Stuff each leg firmly with fiberfill.
Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide belly flap to the
other side of the alpaca.
Then sew the belly flap to both legs and the flaps between
them, stuffing the body as you go.

137
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

138
139
EARS TAIL
(make 2, in mustard) (in mustard)
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 8: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Do not stuff. Flatten the tail. Sew the tail to
Rnd 6 – 15: sc in all 15 st [15] the back over round 40.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears on top of
the head over rounds 6 to 8. Finish the ears by adding
a colorful tassel to the tip.

AGUAYO / BLANKET
ROUNDED BLANKET VERSION RECTANGLE BLANKET VERSION
(in the colors of your choice) (in the colors of your choice)
Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the Ch 15. Crochet in rows.
foundation chain. Row 1: start in second ch from hook,
Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 11 st, sc in next 14 st, ch 1, turn [14]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foun- Row 2 – 23: sc in next 14 st, ch 1, turn [14]
dation chain, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st [26] Row 24: sc in next 14 st [14]
Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next 3 st, Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
sc in next 10 st, inc in next 2 st [32] Finish the blanket by adding some
Rnd 3: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st, inc in next tassels to the short sides.
2 st, sc in next st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st,
inc in next 2 st, sc in next st [40]
Rnd 4: sc in next st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 13 st,
inc in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in
next 13 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [48]
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 14 st,
inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in NECKLACE
next 14 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st [56]
Rnd 6: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 18 st, Make 7 pom-poms in
inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in various colors. Draw a
next 18 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st [64] piece of yarn through the
Rnd 7: sc in all 64 st [64] center of all 7 pom-poms
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish the and put the necklace
blanket by adding some tassels to the short sides. around the alpaca's neck.

140
141
Daniel Jack is a librarian with a master in Library Science. He’s also a great baker
known for his sourdough bread and cinnamon rolls. And, occasionally, Daniel works as
a bartender. He says he likes it because he can wear his beloved bow tie to work.
Drinks and rolls aside, what he really adores most of all are books. Not only because of
all the knowledge they contain, but also for the book itself, the physical object. Daniel
Jack loves the scent of books so much that he can tell you the date of printing just by
sniffing the paper.


KI
LL LEVEL ** HEAD in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2
times, inc in next st, (brown) (sc in
next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3
S

(start in black) times, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [36]


Size:
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 13: (off-white) sc in next 18 st,
6 inches / 15 cm tall -
6 inches /15 cm long Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] (brown) sc in next 12 st, (off-white)
when made with the Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12]Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
sc in next 6 st [36]
indicated yarn (stand- Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 14: (off-white) sc in next 9 st,
ing, ears included) Rnd 5: sc in all 12 st [12] (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat
Rnd 6: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, (brown) (sc
Materials: 6 times [18] in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3
– DK or light worsted Rnd 7: sc in next 8 st, inc in next 2 st, times, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [42]
weight yarn in sc in next 2 st [20] Rnd 15: (off-white) sc in next 21 st,
· off-white Rnd 8: sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in (brown) sc in next 15 st, (off-white)
· brown
next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 7 st [22] sc in next 6 st [42]
· black
Continue working with alternating yarns Rnd 16: (off-white) sc in next 20 st, inc
· blue
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm (off-white and brown). The color you in next st, (brown) inc in next st, sc in
crochet hook work with is indicated before each line. next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [44]
– Black safety eyes Rnd 9: (off-white) sc in next 10 st, inc Rnd 17 – 18: (off-white) sc in next
(10 mm) in next st, (brown) sc in next 2 st, inc in 22 st, (brown) sc in next 16 st, (off-
– Fiberfill next st, sc in next 2 st, (off-white) sc in white) sc in next 6 st [44]
next 6 st [24] Continue in off-white yarn.
Rnd 10: (off-white) sc in next 7 st, (inc in Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 44 st [44]
next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, inc Rnd 21: sc in next 20 st, dec 2 times,
in next st, (brown) (sc in next st, inc in sc in next 20 st [42]
next st) repeat 3 times, (off-white) sc in Insert the safety eyes between
next 6 st [30] rounds 13 and 14, with about an
Rnd 11: (off-white) sc in next 15 st, interspace of 21 stitches. Embroider
(brown) sc in next st 9 st, (off-white) the mouth using black yarn.
sc in next 6 st [30] Rnd 22: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6
Rnd 12: (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (inc times [36]

142
143
Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] LEGS
Rnd 25: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Stuff the head firmly. (in off-white)
Rnd 26: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs.
Rnd 27: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry FIRST BACK LEG
needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop First, find the middle back stitch of the body. If you are not
of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. already there, continue crocheting until that point.
Weave in the yarn end. Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch.
Sc in next 9 st, ch 6. Join the last ch and the stitch with the
stitch marker by working a slst.

BODY The leg will be formed with 9 sc of the body and the ch-6
foundation chain. Continue working the first back leg:
Rnd 1: sc in next 15 st (9 on the body and 6 on the chain) [15]
(in off-white) Rnd 2: sc in all 15 st [15]
We start with the neck. Ch 15. Make sure your chain Rnd 3: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [12]
isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch Rnd 4: sc in all 12 st [12]
and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue Rnd 5: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8]
working in a spiral. Rnd 6: dec 4 times [4]
Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave
Rnd 3: ch 15. Place the stitch marker in the next the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch
stitch, as this is going to be the beginning of each and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain, Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 13 st, sc in the FIRST FRONT LEG
stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue Count 9 stitches along from the first back leg (this will be-
on the neck, sc next 15 st, continue on the other side come the belly) and attach off-white yarn to the 10th stitch.
of the chain, sc in next 13 st, inc in last st [46] Sc in next 9 st, ch 6 and join the last ch and the first sc stitch
Rnd 4: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 19 st, with a slst.
inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next Rnd 1 – 6: repeat rounds 1-6 of the first back leg.
20 st, inc in last st [50]
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 45 st, SECOND FRONT LEG
inc in next st, sc in next st [52] Count 3 stitches to the left of the first front leg (this is the space
Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 20 st, between the legs) and attach off-white yarn to the 4th stitch.
inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next Sc in next 9 st, ch 6 and join the last ch and the first sc stitch
20 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [56] with a slst.
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 49 st, Rnd 1 – 6: repeat rounds 1-6 of the first back leg.
inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [58]
Rnd 8: sc in next 27 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, SECOND BACK LEG
inc in next st, sc in next 25 st [60] Count 9 stitches to the left of the second front leg (this is the other
Rnd 9 – 12: sc in all 60 st [60] side of the belly) and attach off-white yarn to the 10th stitch.
Sc in next 9 st, ch 6 and join the last ch and the first sc stitch
with a slst.
Rnd 1 – 6: repeat rounds 1-6 of the first back leg.

BELLY
Between the legs you have 9 stitch spaces along the sides
and 3 stitch spaces at the front and back. We make the belly

144
by crocheting flaps on these stitches.
Start with the 9 stitch space along the side. Attach SPOT
off-white yarn to the first stitch next to the first leg you
made. Crochet in rows. LARGE SPOT
Row 1 – 9: sc in next 9 st, ch 1, turn [9] (in brown)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
For the back flap, attach off-white yarn to the first stitch Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the spot to
Row 1 – 3: sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn [3] the body.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the flap
between the front legs in the same way. SMALL SPOT
(in brown)
ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Using a tapestry needle, sew the front flap to both front Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
legs and the back flap to both back legs. Stuff each leg Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
firmly with fiberfill. Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the spot to
belly flap to the other side of the body. Then sew the belly the body.
flap to both legs and the flaps between them, stuffing the
body as you go. Sew the head to the body.

BOW TIE
EARS (in blue)
Ch 32. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the
(make 2, 1 in off-white, 1 in black) hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral.
Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 1 – 7: sc in all 32 st [32]
Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.
Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] MIDDLE RIBBON
Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Ch 13. Do not join.
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 12 st [12]
Rnd 8 – 12: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
Flatten the ears. Sew the ear to the head over rounds NECK RIBBON
17 to 24. Ch 21. Do not join.
Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 20 st [20]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pinch the bow

TAIL
tie together and sew the middle ribbon around the
middle of the bow tie. Wrap the neck ribbon around
the dog’s neck and sew the end to the other side of the
(in black) back of the bow tie.
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 5 st [5]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not
need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back over round 5.

145
No one knows where he came from, but Robin feels superlucky and thankful
to have been raised with so much love by a Himalayan horse herd.
Not every lost animal has had the same fortune, so Robin invented an app
that allows you to find any mythological, legendary or unique creature in the
world, but only if they want to be found. And as Robin got rich with this idea,
he also founded a non-profit organization that provides home and shelter all
around the planet to help any creature in need, magical or not.


KI
LL LEVEL ** HEAD
S

(in off-white)
Size:
12.5 inches / 32 cm
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
tall when made with Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
the indicated yarn Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

(standing, horn inclu­ Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
ded) Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 6 – 9: sc in all 30 st [30]
Materials: Rnd 10: sc in next 12 st, inc in next 6 st, sc in next 12 st [36]
– DK or light worsted Rnd 11: sc in next 13 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 11 st [42]
weight yarn in Rnd 12: sc in all 42 st [42]
· off-white
Rnd 13: sc in next 14 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 10 st [48]
· light blue
Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 48 st [48]
· yellow
· pink Rnd 16: sc in next 15 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 9 st [54]
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm Rnd 17 – 28: sc in all 54 st [54]
crochet hook Rnd 29: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48]
– Black safety eyes Rnd 30: sc in all 48 st [48]
(12 mm) Insert the safety eyes between rounds 21 and 22, with an interspace of about 26 stitches.
– Fiberfill Rnd 31: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 32: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 33: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 34: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 35: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Stuff the head firmly with fiberfill.
Rnd 36: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 37: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the
front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.

146
147
BODY Rnd 12 – 14: sc in all 20 st [20]
Rnd 15: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 16: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10]
(in off-white) Rnd 17: dec 5 times [5]
Start with the neck. Ch 27. Make sure your chain isn’t Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining
join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
in a spiral.
Rnd 1 – 4: sc in all 27 st [27] FIRST FRONT LEG
Rnd 5: ch 13. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch Count 10 stitches along from the first back leg (this will be-
you’ll make, as this is going to be the beginning of each come the belly) and attach off-white yarn to the 11th stitch.
round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain, Sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch and the first sc
inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 11 st, sc in the stitch with a slst.
stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on Rnd 1 – 17: repeat rounds 1-17 of the first back leg.
the neck, sc in next 27 st, continue on the other side of
the chain, sc in next 11 st, inc in last st [54] SECOND FRONT LEG
Rnd 6: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 50 st, inc in next 2 st [58] Count 4 stitches to the left of the first front leg (this is the space
Rnd 7: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in between the legs) and attach off-white yarn to the 5th stitch.
next 51 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in last st [62] Sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch and the first sc
Rnd 8: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in stitch with a slst.
next 52 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in last st [66] Rnd 1 – 17: repeat rounds 1-17 of the first back leg.
Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times,
sc in next 50 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 SECOND BACK LEG
times, inc in last st [72] Count 10 stitches to the left of the second front leg (this is the
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Rnd 10: (sc in next 17 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [76] other side of the belly) and attach off-white yarn to the 11th
Rnd 11 – 21: sc in all 76 st [76] stitch.
Sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch and the first sc
stitch with a slst.

LEGS Rnd 1 – 17: repeat rounds 1-17 of the first back leg.

BELLY
(in off-white) Between the legs you have 10 stitch spaces along the sides
We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. and 4 stitch spaces at the front and back.
We make the belly by crocheting flaps on these stitches.
FIRST BACK LEG Start with the 10 stitch space along the side. Attach off-
First, find the middle back stitch of the unicorn body. white yarn to the first stitch next to the first leg you made.
If you are not already there, continue crocheting until Crochet in rows.
that point. Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker Row 1 – 12: sc in next 10 st, ch 1, turn [10]
in the next stitch. Sc in next 12 st, ch 8. Join the last Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
chain and the stitch with the stitch marker by work-
ing a slst. The leg will be formed with 12 sc of the body FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS
and the ch-8 foundation chain. Continue working the For the back flap, attach off-white yarn to the first stitch
first back leg: next to the last leg you made.
Rnd 1: sc in next 20 st (12 on the body and 8 on the Crochet in rows.
chain) [20] Row 1 – 5: sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [4]
Rnd 2 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the flap
Change to yellow yarn. between the front legs in the same way.

148
ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY
Using a tapestry needle, sew the front flap to both front
legs and the back flap to both back legs. Stuff each leg
firmly with fiberfill. Sew the wide belly flap to the other
side of the unicorn. Then sew the belly flap to both legs
and the flaps between them, stuffing the body as you go.
Sew the head to the body.

TAIL MANE
(in light blue) (in light blue)
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 5: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 8: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 9 – 34: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 7 – 34: sc in all 20 st [20]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with
fiberfill. Using a tapestry needle, close the opening of the fiberfill. Using a tapestry needle, close the opening of
tail. Sew the tail to the back over round 5 to 14. the mane. Sew the mane to the back of the head and the
Curl / roll up the end of the tail and secure it with a few neck.
stitches.

149
HORN WINGS
(in yellow) (make 2, in yellow)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 12 st [12] Next, we will divide the wing to make 3 feathers, using
Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] 6 stitches for each feather.
Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] SMALL FEATHER
Rnd 13: sc in all 18 st [18] Sc in next 3 st and join the last stitch to the 15th stitch of
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly the previous round with a sc stitch.
with fiberfill. Sew the horn in front of the mane. Rnd 1: sc in all 6 st [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining

EARS
stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.

MEDIUM FEATHER
(make 2, in off-white) Rejoin the yarn to the stitch to the left of the small feather,
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] sc in next 3 st and join the last stitch to the 3th stitch to the
Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] right side of the small feather.
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 6 st [6]


Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining
Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 20 st [20] LARGE FEATHER
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do Rejoin the yarn to the stitch to the left of the medium
not need to be stuffed. Flatten and pinch the ears. feather.
Sew the ears to the head over rounds 24 to 28. Rnd 1 – 3: sc in all 6 st [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining

CHEEKS stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Sew
the wings to the body. The large feather faces up.

(make 2, in pink) Embroider the anchor (or another symbol you love).
Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the
cheeks to the head.

150
151
Gertrude is a renowned archaeologist. She has been working in the Nordic countries
and the Balkans since forever, but she doesn’t like to tell you her age. Because
everyone knows that dragons can live for centuries, if you do a little research,
you’ll probably find her pictures in old medieval books. Gertrude has a soft spot for
ancient Greek ceramics. I think she probably knew the people who made them.
It’s not surprising that Gertrude’s hobbies are crafts involving fire: glass­making,
silversmithing and, of course, ceramics.

KI
LL LEVEL ** HEAD
S

(in avocado green)


Size:
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
12.5 inches/32 cm tall -
14 inches/40 cm long
Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
when made with the Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
indicated yarn (stand- Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
ing, ears included) Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 24 st [24]
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

Rnd 7: sc in next 8 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 6 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st,
Materials: sc in next 8 st [24]
– DK or light worsted Rnd 8: sc in all 24 st [24]
weight yarn in Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
· avocado green Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 30 st [30]
· pastel pink
Rnd 13: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
· slate gray
Rnd 14 – 16: sc in all 36 st [36]
· leftover of black
– Size C-2 / 2.75 mm Rnd 17: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42]
crochet hook Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 42 st [42]
– Black safety eyes Rnd 21: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
(10 mm) Rnd 22 – 26: sc in all 48 st [48]
– Fiberfill Insert the safety eyes between rounds 21 and 22, with an interspace of about 21
stitches. Embroider the mouth using black yarn.
Rnd 27: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42]
Rnd 28: sc in all 42 st [42]
Rnd 29: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
Rnd 30: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 31: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 32: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
Stuff the head firmly.
Rnd 33: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Rnd 34: dec 6 times [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the
front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends.

152
153
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

154
BODY Continue working the first back leg:
Rnd 1: sc in next 18 st (10 on the body and 8 on the chain) [18]
Rnd 2 – 15: sc in all 18 st [18]
(in avocado green) Rnd 16: sc in next 6 st, (5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st)
Start with the neck. Ch 24. Make sure your chain isn’t repeat 2 times, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 7 st [18]
twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and Make sure the bobble stitches don’t pop to the inside.
join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working Rnd 17: BLO (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
in a spiral. Rnd 18: dec 6 times [6]
Rnd 1 – 3: sc in all 24 st [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave
Rnd 4: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch
Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 27 st [27] and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
Rnd 8: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30]
Rnd 9 – 13: sc in all 30 st [30] FIRST FRONT LEG
Rnd 14: ch 14. Place the stitch marker in the next Count 13 stitches along from the first back leg (this will be-
stitch you’ll make, as this is going to be the beginning come the belly) and attach avocado green yarn to the 14th
of each round from this point on. Crochet back on the stitch.
chain, start in second ch from hook, sc in next 13 st, Sc in next 10 st, ch 8 and join the last ch and the first sc
sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, con- stitch with a slst.
tinue on the neck, sc next 30 st, continue on the other Rnd 1 – 15: repeat rounds 1-15 of the first back leg.
side of the chain, sc in next 12 st, inc in last st [58] Rnd 16: sc in next 9 st, (5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st)
Rnd 15: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 54 st, inc in next repeat 2 times, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 4 st [18]
2 st [62] Make sure the bobble stitches don’t pop to the inside.
Rnd 16: inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in Rnd 17 – 18: repeat rounds 17-18 of the first back leg.
next 55 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times [66]
Rnd 17: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, SECOND FRONT LEG
sc in next 58 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat Count 4 stitches to the left of the first front leg (this is the
2 times [70] space between the legs) and attach avocado green yarn to
Rnd 18: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, the 5th stitch.
sc in next 58 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat Sc in next 10 st, ch 8 and join the last chain and the first sc
2 times [74] stitch with a slst.
Rnd 19 – 28: sc in all 74 st [74] Rnd 1 – 15: repeat rounds 1-15 of the first back leg.
Rnd 16: sc in next 4 st, (5-dc-bobble st, sc in next st) repeat
2 times, 5-dc-bobble st, sc in next 9 st [18]

LEGS Make sure the bobble stitches don’t pop to the inside.
Rnd 17 – 18: repeat rounds 17-18 of the first back leg.

(in avocado green) SECOND BACK LEG


We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. Count 13 stitches along from the first front leg (this will be-
come the other side of the belly) and attach avocado green
FIRST BACK LEG yarn to the 14th stitch.
First, find the middle back stitch of the dragon body. Sc in next 10 st, ch 8 and join the last chain and the first sc
If you are not already there, continue crocheting until stitch with a slst.
that point. Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker Rnd 1 – 15: repeat rounds 1-15 of the first back leg.
in the next stitch. Sc in next 10 st, ch 8. Join the last Rnd 16: sc in next 6 sc, (5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st)
chain and the stitch with the stitch marker by work- repeat 2 times, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 7 [18]
ing a slst. The leg will be formed with 10 sc of the body Make sure the bobble stitches don’t pop to the inside.
and the ch-8 foundation chain. Rnd 17 – 18: repeat rounds 17-18 of the first back leg.

155
BELLY Rnd 35: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [33]
Between the legs you have 13 stitch spaces along the Rnd 36 – 38: sc in all 33 st [33]
sides and 4 stitch spaces at the front and back. We make Rnd 39: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [36]
the belly by crocheting flaps on these stitches. Start with Rnd 40 – 42: sc in all 36 st [36]
the 13 stitch spaces along the side. Attach avocado green Rnd 43: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [39]
yarn to the first stitch next to the first leg you made. Rnd 44 – 46: sc in all 39 st [39]
Crochet in rows. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiber-
Row 1 – 12: sc in next 13 st, ch 1, turn [13] fill. Sew the tail to the back over rounds 14 to 27.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS


For the back flap, attach off-white yarn to the first stitch EARS
next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows.
Row 1 – 5: sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [4] (make 2, in avocado green)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the flap Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
between the front legs in the same way. Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10]
ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10]
Using a tapestry needle, sew the front flap to both front Rnd 6: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15]
legs and the back flap to both back legs. Stuff each leg Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 15 st [15]
firmly with fiberfill. Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20]
belly flap to the other side of the dragon. Then sew the Rnd 10 – 20: sc in all 20 st [20]
belly flap to both legs and the flaps between them, stuffing Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
the body as you go. Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43
Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears to the head over
round 26.

TAIL
HORNS
(in avocado green)
Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] (make 2, in charcoal gray)
Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6]
Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 4 – 12: sc in all 9 st [9]
Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with
Rnd 11: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] fiberfill. Sew the horns to the head, next to the ears.
Rnd 12 – 14: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 15: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18]
Rnd 16 – 18: sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 19: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21] WINGS
Rnd 20 – 22: sc in all 21 st [21]
Rnd 23: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] (make 2, in slate gray)
Rnd 24 – 26: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 27: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 28 – 30: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12]
Rnd 31: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
Rnd 32 – 34: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]

156
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 24 st [24] SMALL SPIKES
Rnd 10: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
Rnd 11: sc in all 30 st [30] (make 13, in pastel pink)
Next, we will divide the wing to make 3 feathers, using 10 Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
stitches for each feather. Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The spikes do
SMALL FEATHER not need to be stuffed.
Sc in next 5 st and join the last stitch to the 25th stitch of
the previous round with a sc stitch.
Rnd 1 – 3: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 4: dec 5 times [5] LARGE SPIKES
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each re- (make 8, in pastel pink)
maining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]
end. Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5]
Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10]
MEDIUM FEATHER Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The spikes
Rejoin the yarn to the first stitch to the left of the small do not need to be stuffed. Sew the large spikes to the
feather, sc in next 5 st and join the last stitch to the 5th neck, body and start of the tail. Complete by sewing the
stitch to the right side of the small feather. small spikes over the tip of the tail and the back of the
Rnd 1 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10] head.
Rnd 6: dec 5 times [5]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the
yarn end.

LARGE FEATHER
Rejoin the yarn to the first stitch to the left of the medium
feather.
Rnd 1 – 7: sc in all 10 st [10]
Rnd 8: dec 5 times [5]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the
yarn end. Sew the wings to the body. The large feather
faces up.

157
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43

158
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

To my family, for being by my side while I try to juggle this rather mad adventure of
making a book.
To the publishers and the proofreaders who tested and helped to improve the patterns.
To my father in law, Ángel, for lending me the camera I’ve used to take all the pictures.
To Luna and Maria, for letting me use their lovely space and wooden tables for my photos.
To Coqui and Bosque Estudio, for listening and turning my thoughts into beautiful pages.

And last but not least, to all of you, the ones who follow my ridiculous posts in social
networks, read about my disappointments and complaints, my achievements and my joys.
You are the ones that made it possible for me to write this second book.
Thank you for allowing me to afford the luxury of having this wonderful job: imagine,
design and crochet these quirky creatures.
A thousand times, thank you.

159
Mireya Arias/tromaga@outlook.com/2017-09-14 21:43