Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Zurich
October – November 2018

What to Take Home

Locally produced gifts, pocket
knives and fondue sets

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N°49
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 Contents
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Arriving & Getting Around 5

City Basics 7

History 10

Culture & Events 11

Concerts, shows and exhibitions
Gifts from Zurich 14
Locally produced spirits, bags, watches and more
Restaurants 16
Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more
Cafés 27
Chocolate, coffee and conversation
In autumn a walk along the lakeshore can be beautiful. For more
Nightlife 28 autumnal options like a pumpkin exhibition check out our Day
Bars, pubs and clubs trips chapter on p. 60. Or shed the autumn blues with a visit to a
hammam or thermal baths (p. 59). shutterstock.com
Zurich Nord 33
Restaurants and bars in the north of the city
Shopping 42
Sightseeing 34 Fancy fashion and Swiss design
Churches, murals and museums
Watches & Jewellery 52

Zurich for kids 56

Major fun for minor citizens
Leisure 58
Laser tag, escape rooms and billiards
Day trips 60
Natural highlights and cultural heritage
Queer Zurich 62

Hotels 63

Maps & Index

Züri Tirggel pictured here are typical Zurich biscuits and an ideal City map 66-68
present to bring home. Read about it and other local products that Index 69
make perfect gifts or souvenirs on p. 14. For classic souvenirs see p. 50. Public transport map 70
PD

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L ö w e n s t r a s s e 4 0 - Z üri ch Oberdorfstrasse 25 - Zürich

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 3

 Foreword
Autumn can be truly beautiful in Zurich, especially when
wisps of mist emerge from the River Limmat and colourful
leaves rustle on the ground beneath your feet by the
lakeside. Gorgeous vistas ensure that even a cruise on the
lake in October can still be a pleasant experience. And
should you encounter a thick fog in the city, there’s an easy
solution: just move upwards. A ride up to Zurich’s own little
mountain known as the Uetliberg (see p. 35) will bring you
above the mist, but sometimes you have to travel a little
further to see the sun. Hörnli or Rigi are a safe bet (p. 61)
and you can check their webcams before you make the trip.
If the weather really let’s you down, the city has plenty of
indoor entertainment. Visit the new Imagine 68 exhibition
about the 1960s generation at the National Museum (p.
11) or spend some time at the Swiss Finance (p. 38) or FIFA
World Cup (p. 37) museums. If you’re looking for something
more active, challenge your friends to a game of laser tag or
try to solve some riddles at an escape room (p. 58).
A little retail therapy is no doubt also on your Zurich to-
do list. If you’re looking for a present to bring home or a
unique souvenir, take a look at our local products feature
(see p. 14) for some interesting ideas. For pocket knives,
fondue sets, cuckoo clocks and other traditional souvenirs
see p. 50. The fog may soon roll into town, but Zurich In Your
Pocket will guide you through the mist this autumn.
Lukas Füglister has lived in Zurich
for nearly 15 years now. As editor
and general manager of Zurich In
Your Pocket he made sharing his
profound knowledge of the city
his profession in 2010. He loves
dining out, craft beer and tennis
and never tires of exploring Zurich.
lukas.fueglister@inyourpocket.com
Europe’s largest
publisher of
locally produced
city guides
PRINT
All you need to know about where to
sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy
inyourpocket.com
4 Zurich In Your Pocket
COVER STORY
Our cover shows the view from
the lookout tower on Uetliberg,
Zurich’s own little mountain.
Beyond the autumnally coloured
forest you can see Lake Zurich
with the districts of Wollishofen
and Leimbach in the foreground.
PUBLISHER & STAFF
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Photos copyright photographers. No part of this publication may
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ARRIVING BY PLANE
Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres
north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700
flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide.
You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival
1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can
find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public
shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00
(groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and free Wi-fi for the first 120
minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’.
If you’re running to catch a train: aim for the big arch. Zurich Tourism
Getting to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and
from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground
train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the
platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main
station), it’s the right train. Up to 10 trains leave an hour and
the journey takes roughly 10 minutes. Tickets can be bought
at the counters or at the less busy ticket machines (switch
them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading
down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and
valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to
do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour
ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a Zürich
Card (see p. 38). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around
60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2.
Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich
main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes and the
same tickets valid for the trains can be used.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short
for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the
city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive
here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the
main hall, where you will find the main exit towards the
city centre, the ticket offices and the Tourist Information
(see p.  9). Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the
station.
At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train
tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets
for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Arriving & Getting Around
timetables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch, call tel. (+41)
900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the ‘SBB Mobile’
app to your smartphone.
ARRIVING BY BUS
International and domestic buses as well as
sightseeing coaches arrive and depart from the bus
station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, F‑10), a two-minute
walk north of the main train station. Domestic
inter-city buses in Switzerland (by Eurobus) only began
operating this summer. See www.swiss-express.ch and p. 6.
ARRIVING BY CAR
The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from
all directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs
to Zurich City, the city centre is quite easy to reach.
But parking is scarce and very expensive. For overnight
parking you can try to find a spot in the so-called blue zone
in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00.
Indicate your arrival time on your parking disk.
Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using
the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr.
Remember that trams always have the right of way, as well
as pedestrians on zebra crossings without traffic lights.
Headlights must be turned on all the time.
The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%. The
standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h
outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential
zones, it is often 30km/h. Fines are high and Switzerland
makes sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign
number plate. You may use your home driving licence.
TAXI SMARTS
Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and
expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even at rush
hour. The city sets the following maximum prices
for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per
hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on a sticker
on the door of the car. In reality only two prices exist:
the maximum fee and the lower one many companies
charge (incl. the two listed below): initial fee (Basis on
the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr
per hour (Wartezeit). When taking a taxi from a stand,
check the prices on their door. Yes, you are free to take
any taxi at a stand. At the stands you will often find
the more expensive ones (especially at the main train
station). Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their
metres. Cheating is rare. The ridesharing service Uber
also operates in Zurich. You can order your driver easily
by using its app. Fares are usually significantly cheaper
than standard taxi fares.
TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch.
TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch.
October – November 2018 5
 Arriving & Getting Around
DOMESTIC
INTERCITY BUSES
For the first time in history, domestic intercity buses
finally began operating in Switzerland this summer.
Previously, Switzerland did not license domestic
intercity buses to protect its extensive train network.
Now Eurobus Swiss-Express operates three domestic
lines, two from east to west (St. Gallen - Zurich - Geneva
and Chur - Zurich - Bern - Sion) and one from north
to south (Zurich - Basel - Luzern - Lugano). There are
usually two connections each day and each route
has roughly a dozen stops. Standard tickets are half
the price of a train ticket for the same route and
sometimes even cheaper offers are available. The Swiss
half price public transport card is valid on these buses.
Travel times are considerably longer than by train, but
they are a good option if you want to save some cash
and time isn’t a factor, especially for routes such as
Zurich to Bern, Geneva, Basel or Chur (starting point to
the Grison alps). If you’re going south (Lucerne, Ticino)
then it’s not really a worthwhile option from Zurich,
as the bus makes a huge detour via Basel first. Check
connections and book tickets on its website.
EUROBUS SWISS-EXPRESS, www.swiss-express.ch,
tel (+41) 900 44 14 34 (1.19 Sfr/min.)
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
City transport
Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses,
local trains and even ships on the lake and the river.
The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network
is divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but
rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone
number 110 (see map p. 70). Tickets are valid in the chosen
zones on all kinds of transportation. A 24-hour pass for
the city will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one
hour 4.40Sfr. Children up to five travel for free, 6 - 16 year-
olds pay the half-fare (which is actually 3.10Sfr). Tickets
can be bought at the ticket machines at nearly every
stop (most take credit cards). You can also buy tickets on
your smartphone via the ZVV Tickets app. It now has
an integrated check-in ticket option that automatically
charges you the best price for your ride (actually using
the lezzgo app). Note that Uetliberg and the airport are
not within zone 110. If you’re caught without a valid ticket
you’ll be fined 90Sfr.
Another option is the Zürich Card (27Sfr/24hrs,
53Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between
the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission
to many museums. See p. 38 for more information.
Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30.
There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday
and from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the city. They
6 Zurich In Your Pocket
require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text
message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to
purchase the supplement by phone.
Trains
The train network is best for getting around Switzerland
quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch.
Tickets are sold at vending machines and at the
counters in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station.
Buy tickets with your smartphone using the SBB
Mobile app, which even indicates which connections
have supersaver tickets (see box below). You need to
register with your credit card.
BICYCLES
There are several hundred free-floating and stationary
rental bikes available throughout Zurich. You simply
download the respective app, register your credit card
and then you’ll be able to see where the closest bike is
located. Book it, find and unlock it with your phone and
hop on!
LIME, green, three gears, quite comfortable to ride. 1Sfr
per half hour. Electric scooters available too.Qwww.li.me.
ZÜRI VELO - PUBLIBIKE, high-quality bikes, pick-up and
return only at stations; e-bikes available. 3Sfr for the first 30
minutes, then 0.05Sfr per minute (or 20Sfr per day). E-bikes
4.50Sfr, then 0.10Sfr per minute.Qwww.publibike.ch
SUPERSAVER TICKETS
FOR TRAINS
Like most things, train tickets are rather expensive in
Switzerland. But if you know when and where you want
to go beforehand, you can save up to 70% on your
journey with so-called Supersaver Tickets. The easiest
way to get these tickets is to install the SBB Mobile app
on your smartphone. An English language version is
available. Check the connections for your route on your
travel day with the timetable function. If Supersaver
Tickets are available for a certain connection, a % sign
is displayed on a black background on the left. Click on
the connection, then on the button “Tickets from CHF
xxx” at the bottom. On the next screen you’ll see the
standard price and the Supersaver Ticket price for this
connection. Purchase the Supersaver Ticket. You’ll need
to set up an account, but all you need is a credit card
and an email address. Note that Supersaver Tickets are
only valid on the chosen connection (standard train
tickets are valid on any connection on one calendar
day in Switzerland). Also note that these ticket prices
are set by an algorithm and can change any time.
Alternatively, you can buy Supersaver Tickets and set
up your account at www.sbb.ch. Supersaver Tickets
are not available at ticket counters or ticket machines.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 City Basics
BASIC DATA
Area
Switzerland: 41285 km²
Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² OFFICIAL INTERNET SHOP
Zurich (City): 92 km²
WWW.PARTIMEWATCH.COM
Population
Switzerland: 8 million
Zurich (city): 405,000
Official languages
Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh
Zurich: German
Local time
Central European (GMT+1h) SWISS
MADE
CUSTOMS
Switzerland is not a member of the European customs
union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to
buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling
from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight
restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty
from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the
following customs and tax allowances apply (for other
countries check with the according customs authorities):

TO SEE THIS CUP YOU

NEED TO MAKE IT TO THE
WORLD CUP FINAL –
OR TO ZURICH.

How about an autumn walk or ride along the lake? Zurich Tourism

Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20)

cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 (50) g of smoking tobacco.
Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits
with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.
Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air
™

travellers and 300 euros for other travellers.

Goods over these limits must be declared when entering
an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply.
WWW.FIFAMUSEUM.COM
In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich
passengers at airports.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 7
ZIYP_60x90_en_Version Q1_2018_v03_hgs.indd 1 08.01.2018 16:08:16
 City Basics
USEFUL ZURICH APPS
Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features
only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other
cities). Just as useful is the map, which is also available
offline. It’s available for free on both iOS and Android.
To download, simply go to iyp.me/app on your
smartphone or scan the QR code on the front cover of
this guide.
The free ZVV-Timetable app provides real time door-
to-door timetable information for all public transport
within the canton of Zurich in English. It also tells you
where the nearest stop is. With the free ZVV-Tickets
app you can also buy tickets on the fly. It now even
offers a check-in function, automatically charging you
the best price for your ride when you finish travelling.
DRINKING
The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer
and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer
are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5
litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale
brewers are increasingly getting competition from local
brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for
instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated.
While the best come from further south, you’ll find some
good Blauburgunders and Riesling Sylvaners from the
Zurich region.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY
Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak
basic English):
Ambulance: 144
Police: 117
Fire brigade: 118
If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in
medical centres, like Permanence at the main train station
(facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and
wait your turn ((+41) 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open
07:00 - 22:00) or mediX (+41) 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse
41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has
three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which
are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters.
EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL
QH‑11, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital,
tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs.
EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI
QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44
466 11 11. Open 24 hrs.
EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID
QC‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44
366 20 55. Open 24 hrs.
Pharmacies
To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in
German)on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min).
The pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24 hrs (G-14,
Theaterstrasse 14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).

LANGUAGE
Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken
by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%).
Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country,
where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss
German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work
or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect.
However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called
Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
January 1 New Year
Sechseläutenplatz is where Zurich has a certain grandeur. Zurich Tourism
January 2 Berchtold Day (local)
April 8, 2019 Sechseläuten (Zurich only)
April 19, 2019 Good Friday
ELECTRICITY April 22, 2019 Easter Monday
Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets May 1 Labour Day (Zurich only)
are round and take three round pins - they can take May 30, 2019 Ascension
Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US June 10, 2019 Whit Monday
or the UK (as well as from many other countries) you need August 1 National Holiday
an adaptor. Travellers from the US (and other countries September 9, 2019 Knabenschiessen (Zurich only)
with a a different voltage) additionally need a voltage December 25 Christmas
converter.
8 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com

LANGUAGE SMARTS
Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be
always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘
in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in
the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.
Hello (formal) Grüezi (groo-e-tsi)
Goodbye (formal) Adieu (as in French)
Thank you Merci (mersi)
Sorry! Entschuldigung! (ent-shooldi-goong)
Excuse me! Exgüsi! (ex-gewsi)
Switzerland D’Schwyz (t’shviiits)
Cheers! Zum Wohl! (tsoom vol)
Zurich Züri (tsoori)
MAIL & PHONE
Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care
of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the post
office with the longest opening hours (see below).
Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is
(0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone
numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use
this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in
Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) prefix, dial 0 and then the
nine-digit number.
SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take
a ticket and wait for your turn. QE‑11, Kasernenstrasse 97,
8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30,
Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.
MONEY
The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc
(Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10,
20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1, 2 and 5
francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change your
money at the SBB change at the main railway station or any of
the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or
your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards
are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service
is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy
with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.
POLITICS
The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct
democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a
stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament
are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and
the seven-member government appointed by parliament
always includes representatives of all of the four or five
major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting
of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain
some independence and have their own constitutions,
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
City Basics
parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the
seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to
the understanding of political independence many locals
favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU.
RELIGION
The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%)
or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority
religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally
Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put
an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has
loosened somewhat in recent decades.
SAFETY
Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area,
even for single travellers at night. Be on guard against
pickpockets just as in any European city.
SMOKING
The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings
and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are
allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).
VISAS
For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply
need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even
though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland
is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a
Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check
these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.
TOURIST INFORMATION
The Tourist Information run by Zurich Tourism is
located in the main hall of the main train station. This
is a one-stop solution for all the information you might
be missing. For personal advice at the counter, take a
ticket and wait your turn. There are some pads for you
to browse and check out the many tours and venues.
They also offer the following services.
They...
• will book city tours and excursions
• sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass
• sell the Zürich Card (see p. ?? for more infos)
• can make hotel reservations
• sell tickets for events and museums and souvenirs
Last but not least you can always pick up the latest
copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course.
QG-11, Main hall of the main train station. Open
08:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:30 - 18:30. Nov -April open
08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
October – November 2018 9
 History
Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli. ZIYP
ROMANS AND
SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH
100BC - X Century
Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the
site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the
Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from
which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD
and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for
the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the
Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them
the language that was to become today’s Swiss German
(Schwyzerdüütsch).
ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS
XII - XIV Century
In the 13th Century Zurich became an
imperial city, answering only to the
emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
Zurich was now headed by a woman -
the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey.
In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s
craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation
of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still
in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur
Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the
guild of the shoemakers on the left).
ZURICH GOES SWISS…  Southern Europe set in, while culturally
AND PROTESTANT
XIV - XVI Century
In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a
treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging
war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon
the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north
all the way to the river Rhine.
10 Zurich In Your Pocket
XVI Century
Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major
critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and
became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from
1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous
behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun
was forbidden or strictly regulated.
NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER
XVI - XVIII Century
During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and
influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time
were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the
painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today
in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as
Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy
into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years.
RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE
XIX - XX Century
Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a
federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland
was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was
in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few
decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main
train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First
World War and was refuge to the artists who started the
Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty
of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee
called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands
were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of
women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!
THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR
XX Century
During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally
neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making
it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan
prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the
Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the so-
called réduit strategy.
ZURICH TODAY
XX - XXI Century
After the war Switzerland’s economy
boomed and mass immigration from
and politically Switzerland remained very
conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth
movements clashed with police, but
also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is
still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative
reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highly-
skilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of
affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today.
zurich.inyourpocket.com

Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera
and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed
programme of excellent concerts. Pop and rock stars almost
always stop in Zurich when touring the continent and Zurich
also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately very few
productions in English.
Events are listed in the following categories: classical
concerts, exhibitions, festivals, shows and rock & pop
concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered by date.
Of course there are many more events than we can list, so we
recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information.
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
10.10 19:30, 11.10 12:15 & 19:30 »
TONHALLE ORCHESTRA
Conductor: Paavo Järvi; piano: Zee Zee. Works by Franz Liszt
and Gustav Mahler.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse
22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 160Sfr,
www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
12.10 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA
Conductor: Paavo Järvi; piano:  Khatia Buniatishvili. Works
by  Claude Debussy,  Sergei Rachmaninoff & J. Brahms.QB‑8,
Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41)
44 206 34 34, 40 - 160Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
For once, the Tonhalle Orchestra without their instruments. www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
 Paolo Dutto
23.10 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER
ORCHESTRA - SEASON OPENING
Conductor: Willi Zimmermann; viola: Amihai Grosz. Works
by Antonín Dvořák, Max Bruch and Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky.
QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau,
tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34, 40 - 105Sfr, www.zko.ch.
11.11 11:15 & 14:15 »TONHALLE ORCHESTRA
- FAMILY CONCERT
Conductor: David Philip Hefti; soprano:  Mojca
Erdmann; actors:  Delia Mayer and Max Simonischek;
director:  Eva Buchmann.  Die Schneekönigin  by David
Philip Hefti. Wold premiere.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag,
Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34,
www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Culture & Events
19.11 19:30 » DANIEL HARDING & THE
SWEDISH RADIO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
Conductor: Daniel Harding; violin: Janine Jansen. Works by
Allan Pettersson, Jean Sibelius and L. van Beethoven.QB‑8,
Tonhalle Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41)
44 206 34 34, 40 - 135Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
20.11 19:30 » ZURICH CHAMBER
ORCHESTRA & JENNIFER PIKE
Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington; violin: Jennifer Pike. Works
by Felix Mendelssohn and W. A. Mozart.QB‑8, Tonhalle
Maag, Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206
34 34, 40 - 105Sfr, www.zko.ch.
EXHIBITIONS
24.04 - 25.11 » KATSINAM - FIGURES OF THE
PUEBLO INDIANS
Over 250 Katsina figures from two private collections
are on display at the North America Native Museum
(NONAM). They are an impressive and colourful tribe. Some
have their stately age written on their faded faces, while
others look as if they’ve just arrived. They embody the
ancestral spirits of the Pueblo cultures and are traditional
gifts, both fascinating and timeless at once.QNONAM,
Seefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41) 43 499
24 40, 12/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr, www.nonam.ch. Open
13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
14.09 - 20.01 » IMAGINE 68 -
THE SPECTACLE OF THE REVOLUTION
This exhibition is a collage by two guest curators
Stefan Zweifel and Juri Steiner and it presents their
perspective of the generation of ‘68. It features objects,
videos, photos, music and works of art and turns the
atmosphere of 1968 into a multisensory experience. The
exhibition takes a comprehensive look at this cultural
time period, allowing visitors to float through Warhol’s
Silver Clouds into a world of past fantasies.QF‑10,
National Museum (Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse
2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, 10/8Sfr,
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
OPERA & BALLET
The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near
the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects
Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out
the programme on their website. You can also buy
tickets on the opera’s webpage, by phone or at the
ticket office on site. Plays are usually with German
and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich
Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take
place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1,
8Opernhaus/Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 268 66 66,
www.opernhaus.ch.
October – November 2018 11
 Culture & Events
CINEMAS
Zurich has more than a dozen cinemas, many
of them with more than one screen and the
large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally
films in Switzerland are shown in their original
language with German and French subtitles. But the
big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some
of the smaller ones in the last two decades have
started to show more and more movies dubbed
in German. In smaller cinemas you can still watch
all movies in the original language – lots of them in
English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf
in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch)
and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the
movie is spoken in German.
CORSO
A four-screen multiplex showing blockbusters at
Bellevue.QH‑14, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel.
(+41) 900 55 67 89, www.kitag.ch.
RIFFRAFF
RiffRaff is a lovely artthouse cinema with four screens just
off Langstrasse.QD‑9, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz,
tel. (+41) 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch.
25.10 - 13.01 »
ROBIN RHODE - ZURICH ART PRIZE
Robin Rhode won the Zurich Art Prize with a solo exhibition
at Haus Konstruktiv.  For Rhode, who was born in Cape
Town in 1976, the medium of drawing is not limited to an
image carrier, but is instead a technique that he uses to
trigger a performance-based process – in the public space,
as well as on the walls of museums and galleries. Be it
choreographed or improvised, Rhode understands drawing
to be something interwoven with space and context, which
is ultimately recorded in the form of photo sequences,
videos or objects.  His latest works contain references to
Modernism, play with the vocabulary of Constructivism
and incorporate notions from colour theory. The Zurich Art
Prize jury expressed enthusiasm about Rhode’s handling
of Constructivist borrowings, which he can implement
with relish in response to space and context.QE‑12, Haus
Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41)
44 217 70 80, 16/12Sfr, free if you’re younger than 16,
www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon.
MUSICALS
13.11 - 18.11 » LET IT BE
It’s like entering a time capsule. With this Beatles tribute
show straight from London’s West End, you can experience
the biggest Beatles hits live. Experience euphoria like back in
the day! Shows start at 19:30, Wed 18:30, Sat 14:30 & 19:30,
Sun 13:30 & 18:30.QH-1, Theater 11, Thurgauerstrasse 7,
8Messe/Hallenstadion, 115 - 95Sfr, www.theater11.ch
12 Zurich In Your Pocket
Drawings interwoven with space and context: Robin Rhode. PD
FESTIVALS
27.09 - 07.10 » ZURICH FILM FESTIVAL
The international competition is the core of the Zurich Film
Festival, which grows bigger each year. International movies
compete for the coveted Golden Eye, the festival’s main
award, in a number of different categories. Apart from the
contestants, many other films are screened here including
international premieres. In recent years the organisers
have even been successful in attracting big international
stars like Sean Penn and Hugh Grant to Zurich. This year
Judi Dench will be honoured with the Golden Icon award.
Check www.zff.com for its detailed programme. The centre
of the festival will be located on Sechseläutenplatz next to
Bellevue.Qwww.zff.com.
ROCK & POP CONCERTS
11.10 20:00 » JASON DERULO
Since his phenomenal rise to superstar status, US singer,
songwriter and dancer Jason Derulo has sold over
94 million singles worldwide, all of which were co-
composed by himself. He will continue to secure his place
at the top of contemporary urban pop music, whose
DNA he has significantly shaped.QI‑1, Hallenstadion,
Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 75 -
85Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.
24.10 20:00 » LAURA PAUSINI
Laura Pausini is one of Italy’s most successful pop stars. To
date she has sold over 70 million records worldwide and now
she’s on a world tour again with her latest record Fatti sentire.
QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/
Hallenstadion, 66 - 140Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.
07.11 20:00 » MORCHEEBA
Remember The Sea, Rome Wasn’t Built In A Day or Blood
Like Lemonade? These are all hits by Morcheeba, which
is considered to be one of the most successful trip hop
bands. They still have their original intensity, too.QD‑11,
Volkshaus, Stauffacherstrasse 60, 8Helvetiaplatz, 80 -
90Sfr, www.allblues.ch.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Culture & Events
07.11 20:00 » BLACK EYED PEAS
After an eight-year hiatus, The Black Eyed Peas are back
on stage in original line-up. Remember those big hits like
Where is the Love?, Shut Up and My Humps? Now they’ll The best Zurich
try to do it all over again on their Masters of the Sun tour.
QI‑1, Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/
Hallenstadion, 55 - 90Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch.
has to offer
10.11 21:00 » PROTOJE
Jamaican reggae singer Protoje brings his new album
in one great app
A Matter of Time to Zurich. Skilful melodies and insistent
words discuss the political and social situation in Jamaica. It
sounds urgent - and damn good.QRote Fabrik, Seestrasse
395, 8Post Wollishofen, 40Sfr, www.rotefabrik.ch.

11.11 20:00 » NOTHING BUT THIEVES

They are young, talented and one of the most successful
British newcomer bands of recent years. Nothing But Thieves
is now on tour with their latest record Broken Machine.
QE‑9, X-tra, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, tel.
(+41) 44 448 15 00, 49/54Sfr, www.x-tra.ch.

20.11 20:00 » ANGÉLIQUE KIDJO

Angélique Kidjo, the queen of Afrofunk is back! On her
latest album she interprets the songs from the legendary
Talking Heads’ classic from 1980,  Remain In Light, in her
very own, joyfully powerful way.QF‑13, Kaufleuten,
Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 225 33 22,
65 - 90Sfr, www.allblues.ch.

City Essentials
Only our favourite places
The queen of Afrofunk, Angélique Kidjo. PD
Works offline, incl. maps
29.11 20:00 » MGMT Free download
The New York indie-tronic band MGMT is back on tour
promoting their new record Little Dark Age.QE‑9, X-Tra, Incl. dozens of other cities
Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44 448 15
00, 60Sfr, www.x-tra.ch.
www.iyp.me/app
30.11 20:00 » JAN GARBAREK GROUP
No one plays the saxophone like Jan Garbarek, which
is why he’s so popular, and not just with jazz lovers. He’ll
be on stage with Indian drummer Trilok Gurtu creating
E S S E N TI A L
magic jazz hymns with beats. Enjoy.QB‑8, Tonhalle Maag, C I TY G U I D E S
Zahnradstrasse 22, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 206 34 34,
55 - 110Sfr, www.allblues.ch.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 13
 Take a piece
of Zurich with you
If you’ve asked yourself what to take home from your trip to Zurich, here are
some local products, apart from pocket knives and cuckoo clocks. We think they
make a good gift or souvenir, as most are made or designed in and around the
city. For all of the classic souvenirs take a look at souvenir shops on p. 50.

TURICUM GIN
This gin is actually distilled in the city of Zurich, hence the name Turicum (Latin
for Zurich). A passionate group surrounding Merlin Kofler has produced this fine
spirit in small batches since 2015. It’s made of 12 different natural ingredients
including local fir tree needles and lime blossoms as well as juniper berries, of
course. The successful brand comes in a stylish stone bottle and is definitely a
good souvenir or gift. You can find it for example at the Jelmoli (see p. 44) and
Globus department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. Q www.turicum-gin.ch

SOEDER NATURE SOAP

Zurich based design collective Soeder designs and produces
sustainable and natural basics like clothing, furniture and
accessories. In their very own factory they produce their natural
Soeder soap with only natural vegetable ingredients (no
preservatives or sulfates are used). It comes in its trademark
simple brown glass bottle and is available in different fragrances
like the refreshing sage/rosemary/lavender, grapefruit or even
gin. An aromatic souvenir from Zurich that lasts. Find the soap
and other Soeder products at its shop at Ankerstrasse 124, (+41)
44 558 34 43 (D-11). Q www.soeder.ch

PARTIME
These Swiss designer watches were invented by Zurich local Andy Mossner.
They display the time in a new, graphic way by simultaneously showing the
time of day and how much of the day is left. For example, a blue area within
a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a
white area gradually eats into the blue. A rather original way to keep Zurich in
mind. Find it at Teddy’s Souvenir Shop (see p. 51), at its webshop or ask for an
express delivery to your hotel. Q www.partimewatch.com

14 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com

TAUCHERLI CHOCOLATE
This chocolate is handmade in Zurich, but that’s not the only
reason why it makes a good present or souvenir. It simply tastes
great. Owner Kay Keusen is a true aficionado and his company
can now produce chocolates from ‘bean to bar’, meaning that
they do all of the necessary production steps themselves - unlike
many of the big chocolate producers. We personally think that
you can taste the difference. In addition to the new bean-to-bar
collection there’s a handful of different chocolates available (try
the dark chilli!) among other treats. The full Taucherli assortment
is available in the Niederdorf at Chäschäller (Niederdorfstrasse 46,
(+41) 44 251 38 92, G-12). Jelmoli department store (see p.44) on
Bahnhofstrasse also sells Taucherli. Q www.taucherli.com

ZÜRICHFOTO.CH
Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells authentic black and white
pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town and the lake. Some
are coloured, but all are framed, signed and numbered. The
unexpected views of Zurich’s sights and landscapes are definitely a
good way of taking a tiny bit of the city back with you. You can visit
his shop next to Grossmünster church (Kirchgasse 32, G-13) where
you’ll often find the photographer himself. Q www.zuerichfoto.ch

SPUTNIK ZURICH
These minimalist-style bags manufactured in Switzerland are design-
ed by Zurich locals Chelsea and Steffi. They come in two models and
a variety of colours and all have a reflective diagonal stripe, which is
a kind of trademark. The functional Voyager has two compartments
that can fit your laptop and daily belongings, while your smartphone,
wallet and keys can be stored in an additional hidden pocket. The
top can be folded and it’s meant to be worn like a messenger bag
on your back. Definitely a practical Zurich souvenir. Find it at Die
Macherei (Europaallee, Lagerstrasse 104, D-10) where you might
even run into Steffi and Chelsea. Q www.sputnikzurich.com

ZÜRI TIRGGEL
The traditional Züri Tirggel honey biscuit certainly makes for a good
present. The Tirggel was mentioned for the first time in the 15th
century and consists of up to 30% honey. Today only a few bakeries
still make this artisanal treat. The bakers create traditional Zurich motifs
like the Grossmünster on the biscuits by pressing moulds onto very
thin dough. The biscuits are then baked at high temperatures using
only top heat. That gives them their characteristically brown top, while
the bottom stays pale. The result is a hard, but sweet biscuit. It’s best
to keep each bite in your mouth for a while, so you can experience
the full honey flavour. Get them at St. Jakobs Bäckerei at Stauffacher
(Badenerstrasse 41, D-12) Q www.st-jakob.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 15

 Restaurants

At Edomae the Japanese chef prepares the raw fish and seafood right in front of you, see p. 21. | Samir Seghrouchni

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and but sweetened with condensed milk. The staff was friendly
takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind and helpful and we were even allowed to take a piece of
of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to fruit with us for our afternoon break. We’ll definitely come
traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese back again to try some of the many à la carte dishes from
and back again. But today many restaurants also cook pho soup to noodle and rice dishes.QD‑10, Rolandstrasse
in a mélange, international style and are not easily 9, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 545 61 14,
categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the www.comingsoon.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00,
places we recommend within any particular category. Sat 17:30 - 23:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€. A­B
For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually
considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close
their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and BURGERS
in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we HELVTI DINER BELLEVUE
recommend you book a table. For more suggestions see Helvti Diner’s burger concept is simple, and that’s probably
www.zurich.inyourpocket.com. one of the reasons why it’s so successful (this is its third
location in town). You can customise your burger in four
ASIAN
NEW
COMING SOON
SYMBOL & PRICE KEY
This is a simply, yet stylishly furnished Vietnamese eatery
in the Langstrasse district. The lunch special we tried was A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge
served on a chic metallic board and we definitely weren’t J City centre location N No credit cards
disappointed. The tofu dumplings were soft and served on
a bed of Thai broccoli and semi-hot soy sauce and rice, but 8 Nearest tram station C‑1 Map coordinates
we spiced it all up with some fresh pieces of chilli and a
€ most mains under 25Sfr
side of kim chi (fermented cabbage) that came with it. The €€ most mains 25-40Sfr
lunch also included a dessert, which was a well-balanced €€€ most mains 40-55Sfr
yoghurt cream with raspberry coulis. We recommend €€€€ most mains over 55Sfr
you  finish off with a Vietnamese coffee, which is strong,
16 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
steps: first you choose the meat (Swiss premium, Angus,
Wagyu or veggie), then the size (single or double), choose
your add-ons like bacon, cheese or fried eggs and then
decide on a sauce. Our burger was grilled medium and the
meat was perfectly pink inside, just as we ordered it, but
next time (and there will be a next time) we might order
some guacamole for a little extra flavour. The service was
quick and friendly.QH‑14, St. Urbangasse 4, 8Bellevue,
tel. (+41) 43 500 05 35, www.helvti-diner.ch. Open 10:00
- 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, kitchen open continuously
until 23:00, Sun 22:00. €€. A­J

JACK & JO
Jack & Jo is in on fast slow food. Or .. is it slow fast food?
Basically it’s burgers, made from locally produced Slow food meets comfort food at homey Jack & Jo. PD
ingredients and home-made buns, served with handcut
fries and drinks presented in preserving jars, all in a modern different noodle dishes on offer, all of them served either
but homely styled environment. The vegetarian burger as a soup or what they call dry (but you still get sauce) and
with quinoa was solid, but the beef burger was more to you can also choose rice noodles or homemade Italian-
our taste here. There is a huge salad bar and they do style noodles. The menu offers different  dumplings and
quesadillas and breakfasts too. During the day you place other à la carte dishes, but why not stick with the noodles,
your orders at the bar, a buzzer will tell you when they’re as they certainly made our day better, if not luckier.QE‑12,
ready to pick up, in the evening a waiter will serve you at Sihlporte 3, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 558 28 27,
your table. Popular with students and the city’s hipsters. www.luckynoodle.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 22:00,
Sat & Sun à la carte brunch until 16:00.QE‑10, Gustav- Mon, Tue 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 21:30, Sat 12:00 - 22:00,
Gull-Platz 2, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 542 88 99, closed Sun. €. A­B­J
www.jackandjo.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 -
22:00, Kitchen closes daily 22:00, Sun 21:00. €. A­J
FINE DINING
DIDI’S FRIEDEN
CHINESE At Didi’s you get exquisite cuisine in a calmly elegant
NEW atmosphere. Our evening took off splendidly with the hors
KHUJUG d’oeuvres and then continued with the delightful four-
Kuhjug  serves Chinese dishes in a no-kitsch, arty and course menu which is new every month (around 98Sfr).
modern urban atmosphere. The menu has more than 100 We had marinated king fish as starter followed by a tender
options, which makes choosing quite difficult, but  with piece of veal’s loin. Cooking and hospitality is a vocation
such an extensive selection you can pick exactly the kind here and the chocolate art-work on the dessert plates is
of meat or fish you want. However, if that sounds like too just one of the proofs. Reservation recommended.QG‑10,
much work, you can do what we did and just drop by at Stampfenbachstrasse 32, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel.
lunchtime. Of the five available lunch deals we opted for (+41) 44 253 18 10, www.didisfrieden.ch. Open 11:00 -
the Szechuan-style duck. The food was neatly arranged 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€.
in small bowls and a little frying pan and surprisingly A­B­J
included some fried dumplings as a starter. The duck was
crispy, but perhaps fried just a touch too long. However, the
vegetables and the sauce were excellent and hot, but not
too spicy (the way we like it) and the service was quick and
friendly.QD‑10, Schöneggstrasse 5, 8Helvetiaplatz,
tel. (+41) 41 888 05 58. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. €. A­B THE CLASSIC
ITALIAN RESTAURANT
NEW
LUCKY NOODLE
The noodles in this state-of-the-art city centre venue
really made an impression on us. We chose the dan dan
mian  (served dry as the chef recommended), and were
quickly hit with an explosion of flavours. The noodles with
minced pork and Si Chuan peppers were decorated with a
bit of fresh cabbage, carrots and cilantro and a fiery sauce
making it a truly flavourful dish. There are at least a dozen
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 17
 Restaurants
The noble ambience of a guild house at Zum Grünen Glas. PD
MAISON MANESSE
This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable
and easy-going setting, where the homey white wooden
panelling sets the mood. The plates created by chef Fabian
Spiquel change frequently and feature experimental
cuisine and other unusual cooking styles. Sometimes you
even have to lend a hand and help finish preparing the
dishes. The tartar, for example, came with a recipe and
some essences like Katsuobushi whiskey and we even
grilled the rosemary, honey and goat cheese marshmallows
ourselves on an open flame at the table. Although you
can choose items from the à la carte menu, many opt for
Spiquel’s Michelin-starred surprise menu (around 150Sfr).
The flavours they create here are amazing, but relax, not
everything is completely off the wall. A steak is still a
steak, but the one we had here was probably the most
tender we’ve had in a long time. Recommended!QC‑14,
Hopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 44
462 01 01, www.maisonmanesse.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00,
18:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue 11:45 - 14:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00,
closed Sun. €€€€. A­B
MESA
We started our evening at Mesa with an unexpectedly
vibrant and delicate cucumber and papaya salad made even
better by the nori seaweed and cashew nuts. The secreto
pata negra which followed was delicious, but what really
NEAR THE
GROSSMÜNSTER
„finest Provencal cuisine“
Nägelihof 3
8001 Zurich
+41 44 250 59 40
commercio.ch
arthouse.ch
18 Zurich In Your Pocket
blew us away was the monkfish with okra and Indian cress.
The fish was tender and succulent and was complemented
by a curry sauce that completely took our taste buds by
surprise. For dessert we chose a Mesa classic, the heavenly
apple pie. In short, chef Sebastian Rösch knows how to
create exceptional flavours while keeping things rather
simple at this stylish, yet unpretentious establishment.
QG‑9, Weinbergstrasse 75, 8Sonneggstrasse, tel.
(+41) 43 321 75 75, www.mesa-restaurant.ch. Open
11:45 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00, Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. €€€€. A
FRENCH
LA CÔTE
For decades this place has been really dedicated to meat.
Their speciality is a so called charbonnade, thinly sliced
beef you grill yourself on a small charcoal grill right on
your table! If you think this is crazy - you’re right, it is.
But it’s great fun too! Just make sure you don’t wear your
best suit, as the air here is rather, ehm, grilly. With the
charbonnade you get homemade sauces, some pickles,
and some thin cut fries if you like. It’s all you can eat as
long as the grill is hot enough - which on our visit was
much longer than we could take.QB‑13, Aemtlerstrasse
26, 8Goldbrunnenplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 91 91,
www.restaurant-lacote.ch. Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00
- 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (all you can eat
charbonnade 54Sfr) €€€. A­B
MÈRE CATHERINE
Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from
Provence using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and
rosemary. But she also does other French classics
like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles
and cappelacci, usually home-made, are also
standard features. The interior with uneven walls,
dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant
and the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe
next door is good for a quiet drink.QG‑13,
Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40,
www.commercio.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, kitchen
open throughout until 22:15. €€. A­B­J
zurich.inyourpocket.com

GUILD HOUSES
Zurich’s guilds or zünfte are prestigious men’s clubs today,
and many own a handsome mediaeval or early modern
guild house in the old town where they meet. Quite a few
of these guild houses are also restaurants which cultivate a
traditional, refined cuisine.
ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS
A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge
of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable
Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an
old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar - it’s served
either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and
mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish,
meat and some typical Zurich dishes like geschnetzeltes on
the menu as well.QG‑13, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt,
tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun,
kitchen open until 22:00. €€. A­B­J
ZUNFTHAUS ZUR HAUE
The all-wood panelled walls make for a stately atmosphere
in the refectory of the guild house Haue. Unsurprisingly,
they serve traditional Swiss food here. The capuns, a pasta
dough wrapped in leaves of white beef on a creamy
sauce were tasty, the veal liver came very tender and the
rösti crispy. The waiter was very attentive, just as it should
be.QG‑13, Limmatquai 52, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 252
33 62, www.zunfthaus-zur-haue.ch. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
closed Sun. €€. A­B­J
INTERNATIONAL
GARTENHOF
This is an honest, straightforward restaurant with no frills
whatsoever. Its ever-changing menu offers solid fare
with some innovation. For a main course you can usually
expect fish, meat and vegetarian options and we always
appreciate the casual, yet attentive service here, while the
food never disappoints. If you order red or white wines by
the glass, the waiter simply brings the bottle to your table.
Then you can drink as much as you like and pay for what
you’ve consumed.QC‑12, Gartenhofstrasse 1, 8Werd,
tel. (+41) 43 266 63 63, www.gartenhof.net. Open 11:30
- 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B
PIC-CHIC
Just off Bahnhofstrasse you’ll find Pic-Chic, which is like a
mini street food festival designed in the trendy pop-up style.
A handful of vendors joined forces here to serve tasty street
fare including Chinese cuisine prepared by Wesley, one of
the city’s finest Chinese chefs, sushi by The Chedi and tacos
from La Chamaca, to name a few. After you order at one of
the stalls you can have a seat and the food will be brought
to you. It’s definitely a good place for a break as you can also
just grab a drink or a coffee at the bar.QF‑12, Kuttelgasse
10, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 222 00 81, www.pic-chic
.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A­B­J
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Restaurants
CHEESE RESTAURANTS
istock.com
The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette
originally come from the French-speaking areas of
Switzerland. Fondue is a mix of melted cheese and
white wine bubbling over a small burner which you
dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted
cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed
restaurants below are specialists.
CHÄSALP
Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg, where
fondue and raclette are now served in the ancient
stable. This gives you a kind of alpine-hut experience,
which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well
worth it. While there are 17 different kinds of fondue
on offer, we recommend sticking to the house blend or
the classic moitié-moité. Take tram 5 or 6 (12 minutes
from main station) to Kirche Fluntern  and then bus
751 will drop you off right in front of the restaurant in
only five minutes.QTobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof
(Bus 751), tel. (+41) 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch.
Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:30,
17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B
LE DÉZALEY
For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to
dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue
prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and
also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A
typical starter is airdried meat.QG‑13, Römergasse
7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 61 29,
www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. A­B­J
RACLETTE FACTORY
Raclette Factory offers the Swiss cheese speciality
raclette in fast food-style portions at the counter. This
gives you the opportunity to taste a handful of different
cheese varieties on offer. After you’ve ordered you can
take a seat at one of the wooden tables to enjoy this
gooiest of Swiss treats. Take away and all-you-can eat is
also available.QG‑12, Rindermarkt 1, 8Rathaus, tel.
(+41) 44 261 04 10, www.raclette-factory.ch. Open
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. €.A­J
October – November 2018 19
 Restaurants
VEGETARIAN & VEGAN
TIBITS
The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of
tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from
around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials,
soups, sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain
tasty, believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner
or coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits
im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12,
(+41) 44 260 32 12 (open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 -
20:00).QH‑15, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel.
(+41) 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 -
23:00, Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00
- 23:00, food served until 30 minutes before closing.
(buffet, 4.20Sfr (take away 3.70Sfr) per 100 grams).
A­B­S­J
MARKTKÜCHE
Purely vegan, a contemporary interior and definitely fine-
dining: the Marktküche convinced us even before the
actual meal – e.g. with the selection of bread and spreads
and an hors-d’oeuvre. The house tartar, served under a
glass bell and a veil of smoke or the wonderfully delicate
ravioli were equally testimony to the kitchen team’s skills.
QC‑10, Feldstrasse 98, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44
211 22 11, www.marktkueche.ch. Open 17:30 - 23:30,
Sat 17:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A
W
GETTING THE BEST
OUT OF FRUIT
AND VEGETABLES.
Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant
Bar Take Away Catering
Seefeldstr.2|Falkenstr.12
next to the Opera House, Zurich
www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk
20 Zurich In Your Pocket
ITALIAN
4LEONI FIRENZE
The spaghetti was firm, the succulent pieces of fried
aubergine gave the tomato sauce the desired extra flavour
and the ricotta cheese added on top not only pleased the
eye, but added some real freshness to to dish. Yes, you
could say that we were quite pleased with our meal and
the easygoing waiter certainly made us feel like we were
dining in Italy. That said, 4Leoni Firenze doesn’t only do
great pasta, but also some other specialities from Tuscany
like Polpette alla Fiorentina (meatballs) and the famous
Bistecca Fiorentina (a T-bone from the grill). The Coccoloni
family who owns the restaurant also runs a handful of
successful establishments in Tuscany, which could explain
its obvious authenticity. Lunch deals including water or a
glass of wine and coffee can also be had for around 25Sfr.
QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 43, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 44
271 00 66, www.4leoni-firenze.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30,
18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30. €€. A­B
Italian charm: the elegantly dressed waiters at Commercio. PD
COMMERCIO
While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this
small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in
the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night,
thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas
right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests
squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of
pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a fine art.
QH‑14, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen, tel. (+41)
44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open 06:30 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until
23:00. €€. A­B­J
ORSINI
The Orsini belongs to the Savoy hotel and is a fine
traditional Italian restaurant frequented by many business
people spilling over from the neighbouring financial
district. The high rooms, the wood casing and the mirrors
make for an appropriate atmosphere. The menu features
pasta and many meat and fish specialities from Italy like
fillet of john dory Livornese style or veal osobucco with
risotto. High quality and pricey Italian food in a sublime
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
setting.QF‑13, Waaggasse 3, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44
215 27 27, www.orsiniristorante.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00,
18:00 - 22:00, kitchen open until 21:30. €€€€. A­J YOOJI’S
ZUM GROBE ERNST - LA TAVOLATA DREIKÖNIG
The speciality here is Sardinian  tavolata, an Italian-style
sharing plate concept, which we tried and didn’t regret. The
SUSHI & SAKE BAR
As well as modern japanese cuisine,
selection of starters we got looked great, but tasted even this trendy location in Zurich Enge boasts
better. It was a genuine demonstration of the diversity of a sensational sake bar with a unique
Sardinian cuisine. The aubergine au gratin with eggs was collection of sake, selected spirits and
exquisite cocktails.
delightful, the mozzarella di buffala with tomatoes was
incredibly fresh and the pulpo  (octopus) was firm and
not at all rubbery. This was followed by great pasta with
salsiccia and  saffron. This prelude  set our expectations
quite high for the main courses, which is why the lamb
and the sea bass, satisfied but didn’t impress as much as
the appetisers. Nevertheless, we had a pleasant evening.
QG‑12, Stüssihofstatt 16, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 535
20 89, www.zumgrobeernst.com. Open 11:00 - 14:15,
18:00 - 22:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. €€. A­B­J

JAPANESE
NEW YOOJI’S DREIKÖNIG
EDOMAE Beethovenstr. 32 | 8002 Zürich
+41 44 578 17 07
At Edomae the Japanese chef decides what you eat. That dreikoenig@yoojis.ch | yoojis.com
is, if you’ re lucky enough to get a seat as there are only  Yoojis.Deli |  yoojis_sushi
eight available per Omakase, as the dinner performance is
called. The chef prepares more than a dozen small courses
(mainly small bites of raw fish, mussels and other seafood)
right in front of you at the bar, explains what he prepared KOKORO
and then, most importantly, how to eat it. For newbies like This small Japanese restaurant convinced us with great food
YDK_Zurich-in-your-Pocket_Inserat_60x90_RZ.indd 1 14.11.17 10:28
us it was news that you actually turn these nigiri creations and friendly service by the Japanese staff. After an excellent
upside down when eating them, so the flavours of the fish spicy tuna tartar, we continued with salmon and avocado
and toppings like blossoms, sesame or Japanese pepper maki and finished off with a fried chicken gorgonzola sushi
land on your tongue first and not the rice. It’s a remarkable roll, a truly novel taste experience. All the food was produced
and different experience, as all of the compositions created directly in front of us. With the changing mix of traditional and
fascinating flavours that were simply outstanding. The modern variations of Japanese cuisine, this is more than just
experience is definitely recommended, and not just for another sushi bar. Recommended.QD‑10, Neufrankengasse
sushi lovers. A menu including miso soup, dessert and 25, tel. (+41) 44 241 37 37, www.kokoro-restaurant.ch.
coffee is 107Sfr (two sessions per evening, start 18:30 and Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:30 - 23:00, Sat 18:30 - 23:00, closed
19:30).QE‑13, Talstrasse 62, tel. (+41) 44 544 00 33, Mon, Sun, last orders 14:00/21:45. €€. A­B
www.edomae.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00. €€€€. A­B­J
YOOJI’S DREIKÖNIG
No matter if you prefer your sushi as a pleasant dinner
at a table, a quick meal at the bar, as takeaway or from a
kaiten (conveyor belt), the six Yooji’s locations in Zurich all
serve good Japanese food. This one has an extended kaiten
section, allowing you to sit face to face while the conveyor
belt delivers your sushi. We enjoyed the friendly table
service having chosen the mixed sushi-oke platter and had
no regrets. There’s also a large selection of sake and some
sake cocktails available at the bar or, if you’re a sake newbie
like us, a taster set with three different sakes can also be had.
Some other locations: Bellevue (H-14, St. Urbangasse 8),
Langstrasse district (D-9, Josefstrasse 112), Seefeld (I-16, See-
feldstrasse 115).QF‑14, Beethovenstrasse 32, 8Stocker-
Sushi on the conveyor belt and the latest news on the screen at strasse, tel. (+41) 44 578 17 07, www.yoojis.com.
Yooji’s. PD Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. A­J
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 21
 Restaurants
SWISS CUISINE
What the Swiss like to eat at home and when
out is ­ heavily influenced by their neighbours’
cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real
Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say:
käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese
and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread
in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used
to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted
cheese on potatoes served with different pickles
and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss,
the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork)
being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a
traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in
a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often
served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a
bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss
traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive
range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich
zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts.
Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not
traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two
meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve
dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth
(chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying
with a range of sauces and sides.
MEDITERRANEAN
BAR BASSO
We like the style at the Basso - it’s modern and pure,
without being super-cooled. The Italian-Alpine menu is
also definitely worth a mention, offering e.g. tasty tartar,
excellent cheese lasagne, served not in layers but open,
so to speak and some great cuts of meat too. They also
have a wood-fire oven for genuine pizze. If in doubt, go
for the 5-course taster menu. The service is attentive and
fresh, and on a sunny day, their colourful outdoor tables
just overlooking the Sihl canal are a lovely place to enjoy a
good cup of coffee.QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 59, 8Sihlstrasse,
tel. (+41) 43 497 25 28, www.barbasso.ch. Open 08:00 -
24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. A­B­J
LES HALLES
This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from
around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch.
The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are
what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar.
The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at
the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very
busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh
food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your
significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the back.QB‑8,
Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 273 11 25,
www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 13:45/22:00,
Sat 18:00 - 22:00, snacks & tapas througout. €€. A­B
22 Zurich In Your Pocket
TURM
If you are not good at decisions, you will have a hard
time choosing at the Turm: the vast menu features
crocodile, kangaroo, beef, soups, salads, quesadillas and
Mediterranean classics. The place is heavily decorated with
plants and palms, contrasting with the old guild house
it’s located in. Food is good and service fast - usually. The
Turm is hidden in the upper part of Niederdorf. But it’s well
known: just ask for directions.QG‑13, Obere Zäune 19,
8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 268 39 40, www.bei-tony.ch.
Open 10:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 21:00, non-stop kitchen
until 23:30. €€. A­B­J
ORIENTAL
BEBEK
This restaurant is an architectural mezze platter: concrete
walls, mosaic floors, high ceilings, chandeliers and a peek-
through window to the neighbouring tram shed. We love the
mix of concrete and orient. The menu is dominated by food
from Lebanon, Greece and Turkey. We tried the all-you-can-
eat mezze platter - and loved what we got: skewers of chicken
and köfte, tabouleh, tzatziki mousaka and much more,
everything was excellent. You can also order the different
mezze as small portions. The service is a bit nonchalant, but
friendly.QB‑12, Badenerstrasse 171, 8Kalkbreite, tel.
(+41) 44 297 11 00, www.bebek.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri
07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00, kitchen
open throughout until 23:00. €€. A­B
The lively, yet laid-back bustle at Les Halles. Zurich Tourism
MOUDI
At Moudi they care about interior design. The big windows
of the modern building are covered from the inside with
a puzzle of smaller wooden windows, which makes for a
homey atmosphere. For food they serve mezze, warm and
cold oriental starters, mostly vegetarian. They are a treat!
Go for the set platter, if choosing from the long list seems
too exhausting to you. Splendid outdoor area towards
the Schanzengraben moat.QE‑13, Brandschenkestrasse
5, 8Bahnhof Selnau, tel. (+41) 443 90 13 14,
www.moudi-bar.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 -
02:00, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until
22:00. €€. A­B­J
zurich.inyourpocket.com

SOUTH AMERICAN
EL LUCHADOR
Oh, the ceviche! The pungent cocktail of fish, chilli, coriander
and lime juice is reason enough to visit El Luchador. But
the other dishes on the small menu are full of flavour too.
Soft maize tacos are the mainstay, with shrimps, meat or
vegetables and always served with four freshly made sauces
- add as you wish. Quite low-key, this is a great place for a
few beers and no one will mind if the sauce doesn’t stay
in the tacos. You might walk in on one of their occasional
short film nights, or enjoy leafing through The New Yorker
or Rolling Stone magazines.QE‑10, Konradstrasse 69,
8Museum für Gestaltung, tel. (+41) 44 271 72 00,
www.elluchador.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 -
01:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open 18:00 - 22:30. (8 - 19Sfr,
reckon three or more dishes for a full meal). A­B
PAPA CEVICHE
At the Peruvian Papa Ceviche the mood is casual: a string
of colourful light bulbs hanging from the ceiling and South
American melodies make for a laid-back atmosphere. The
food concept is tapas style as you order small plates to share.
More than a handful of different ceviches (raw fish, citrus
juices, spices like coriander and chillies) make sure the place
lives up to its name. Other dishes are spare ribs, calamari or
chicken wings for example. We liked the food, especially
the ceviche Sol Papa with tilapia, sweet potato and mango.
What they serve though may be less modelled on Peruvian
traditions and more on European urban trends. It’s rather
pricey though as one can eat easily five of those plates.
The service was not very friendly unfortunately.QC‑12,
Badenerstrasse 101, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 44
525 00 80, www.papaceviche.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. (6 - 16Sfr per dish).
SPANISH
BODEGA ESPANOLA
If you’re looking for no-nonsense Spanish charm in Zurich
the Bodega is the place to head for. After an ‘hola’ from the
waiter, choose from the tapas on display at the counter: squid
salad, figs wrapped in bacon, chicken wings etc. (around
6Sfr each). A must-try is the excellent tortilla. Then take a
seat at one of the large tables – a short chat comes easy as
Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and
night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Restaurants
A stylish place for carnivores: Napa Grill. PD
you’ll probably be sharing with other guests. The waiters will
also be pleased to put together a selection of tapas for you.
Agree on a maximum price to avoid surprises. For dining in a
slightly more classy atmosphere visit the Sala Marisco on the
first floor.QG‑13, Münstergasse 15, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41)
44 251 23 10, www.bodega-espanola.ch. Open 10:00 -
24:00, kitchen open until 23:00. €€. A­J
STEAKS & BARBECUE
NEW
NAPA GRILL
Napa Grill is dedicated to US prime beef cooked on a wood-
fired grill and wine from the Napa Valley in California. We
chose the spicy gazpacho with crab legs for a starter, a
spicy opening to a pleasant evening. As a main we picked
the porterhouse steak, a US-cut that includes part of the
tenderloin fillet, and received a juicy, flavour-packed
piece of meat grilled medium rare, just as ordered. The
grilled vegetables on the side were also cooked perfectly.
Thankfully, our friendly waiter was happy to share his
extensive knowledge with US-wine novices like us who
had a difficult time navigating the vast wine list. After
three different tasters, we selected a Pott 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon in our price range (85Sfr) and were won over by its
full-bodied flavour and soft tannins. QD‑15, Brandschenke-
strasse 130, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 289 80
80, www.napagrill.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:30,
Sat 18:00 - 22:30, closed Sun. €€€. A­B
October – November 2018 23
 Restaurants
GAME SEASON
Autumn is hunting season in Switzerland’s woods
and mountains, and some of the game (called Wild in
German) finds its way to many of Zurich’s traditional
Swiss restaurants. Jugged venison or rehpfeffer is one
of the most popular dishes, but occasionally you’ll find
roast venison or wild boar, which may be served grilled
or as a roast. The oppulent side dishes are nearly as
important, typically consisting of red cabbage, steamed
pear, lingonberry sauce, Brussels sprouts, glazed
chestnuts and egg pasta called spätzli or chnöpfli.
Game has many fans, some look forward to the season
all year! If you like meat in general, you’ll most probably
become a fan, too. Hunting has a long tradition in
Switzerland, but don’t be fooled: nowadays the local
hunt can’t keep up with the demand for venison, so ¾
of it is imported, a lot from farms overseas. We would
recommend going to a restaurant that has local game
on the menu, not just for environmental reasons. We
list a few places below that usually serve game in
autumn, though not always and only from local hunts.
Local game is always subject to availabilty, so we
recommend checking by phone quickly before you go.
CAFÉ BOY
In autumn, chef Jann M. Hoffmann usually has some
game dishes on the menu.QB‑11, Kochstrasse
2, 8Zypressenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 240 40 24,
www.cafeboy.ch. Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00.
Sat & Sun closed.
DIE WAID
Many game dishes throughout autumn.QA‑4,
Waidbadstrasse 45, 8Waidbadstrasse (bus), tel. (+41)
43 422 08 08, www.diewaid.ch. Open 08:00 - 23:30.
BUTCHERS TABLE
At the Butchers Table it’s all about the meat, be it beef, Black
Iberian pork or veal. Choose your meat at the display counter,
but don’t be afraid to ask for a private consultation from the
butcher himself. He convinced us to pick the so-called ‘second
cuts’ of beef, which are essentially less common pieces (at least
around here), instead of the more popular tenderloins and
fillets. We have to admit that the outside skirt and the hanging
tender we chose were quite flavourful and surprisingly tender.
The pieces you choose are grilled and then brought to your
table on a wooden  cutting board to share (pay by weight).
The Butchers Choice Deal includes a bowl of salad, a side of
fries and even some  cooked marrow as a tasty starter. The
bone shot  (after the marrow is removed, the waiter pours
some vodka  through a bone directly into your mouth) is
more like a test of your gag reflex than anything else, but it
certainly spiced up our evening QJ‑16, Neumünsterstrasse
34, 8Hegibachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 577 56 88,
www.butcherstable.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00,
Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A­B
24 Zurich In Your Pocket
SWISS
As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see
box Swiss cuisine p. 22), we list some traditional restaurants
here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern
way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue
and raclette, see the box on p. 19. We list the traditional
Zurich beer halls in a separate category overleaf. They serve
generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a
bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either.
Dining below Picassos and Miròs at Kronenhalle. PD
AU-GUST (WIDDER HOTEL)
Black and white tiling, industrial style lamps and an
open kitchen: the Au-Gust definitely looks stylish. But
it’s not only looks - the food is a treat too. They major
on meat, not on steaks like everyone else but on cold
cuts, sausages, terrines, carpaccios and innards (well,
beef filet is available too). Our fleischkäse (Swiss style
meat loaf ) was bursting with flavour. We’re not usually
passionate about innards, but the tripe Zurich style
with its spicy sauce changed our minds on this one.
No reservations - in case there is no space, you can
simply wait in the in-house Widder bar until they call
you.QF‑12, Rennweg 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44
224 28 28, www.au-gust.ch. Open 11:30 - 22:15, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:15, breakfast 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun
06:30 - 11:00. €€. A­B­J
KRONENHALLE
The Kronenhalle is Zurich’s most legendary
restaurant: top bankers, artists, authors, editors-in-
chief and celebrities come to the famous brasserie
on Bellevueplatz as well as a mix of (well-dressed)
ordinary people. Lots of dark wood and original
paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give the
brasserie its classic, yet old-fashioned look. The food
(schnitzel with cucumber salad, bouillon with liver
dumplings) is good to be sure, if a bit pricey, but many
people simply come here to see and be seen. There is
a salon for private dinners and a cocktail bar.QG‑14,
Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 262 99 00,
www.kronenhalle.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, kitchen
open until 23:15. €€€€. A­X­J
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
MOHRENKOPF
This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare,
coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area,
frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu
offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size
pieces) with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual
dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and
dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a
treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a
mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that
gave the restaurant its name.QG‑12, Niederdorfstrasse
31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 262 05 45,
www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun
09:00 - 18:00, kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. €€.
A­B­J

SPITZ
Spitz is located in the old section of the recently
expanded Swiss National Museum. The restaurant with
its high ceiling supported by ornamented columns is
impressive and the dark green timbers give the room
a relaxing touch. The cuisine here is playful, and to be
honest, a little experimental. The grilled lettuce with
lemongrass vervain sauce we had for a starter was
excellent and the lamb from the surrounding Swiss
mountains was a real treat. We finished off our dining
experience with an inventive blueberry mousse with
cashew nuts and a touch of lavender. An impressive wine
list that includes some natural wines is also available, but
An impressive high ceiling at Spitz. PD
if you’re in a hurry you might also try its bistro section,
which provides simpler menus, or the bar specialising in
whiskey. In short, Spitz is a good option if you’d like to
experiment with local cuisine in an interesting setting.
QG‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Bahnofquai / HB, tel.
(+41) 44 221 94 77, www.restaurantspitz.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 24:00, Sat
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, bistro open daily
from 10:00 (closed Mon), bar open 17:00 - 24:00, Sun
closed. €€€. A­B­J

since 1981
continuing a tradition

niederdorfstrasse 31 — 8001 zürich

www.mohrenkopf.info

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 25

 Restaurants
BEER HALLS
BRASSERIE FEDERAL
This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100
different Swiss beers are sold in this huge hall
situated inside the main train station. You can try
seven at one blow: for 10.50Sfr the waiter will
serve you seven beers from the tap in small glasses
(1dl). Food is Swiss-style, hearty and served fast:
pasta with minced meat, bratwurst or rösti with
bacon and raclette cheese.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz
15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 217 15 15,
www.brasserie-federal.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
kitchen open until 22:30. €. A­J
WEISSER WIND
This rustic tavern serves typical hearty Zurich fare like
cordon bleu, geschnetzeltes, hörnli maccaroni with
minced meat and the like - all in very solid quality.
Beware of the devil’s noodles (teufelsnudeln) with
beef cubes - they really are hot, a challenge even for
experienced chilli fans. Service is friendly and the beers
come quickly - not a bad place for experiencing some
local cuisine and charm.QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse
20, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 18 45,
www.weisserwind.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 -
23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€. J
Offers hearty traditional Swiss cuisine
at affordable prices. Centrally located
on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.
open daily 11.30 – 23.00
for reservations +41 (0) 44 220 15 15
www.zeughauskeller.ch
26 Zurich In Your Pocket
RÜSTEREI
Located in a former paper mill, the Rüsterei is a popular
restaurant. Rightly so, we think: the seven-metre high room
within the innovative Sihlcity mall complex is impressive.
You can still feel its industrial past, which contrasts with
the elegant furnishings. The modern interpretation of
Swiss and international cuisine  is very convincing, the
atmosphere is nice and the service attentive. In the Kantine
section they offer simpler food all day.QKalanderplatz 6,
8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 317 19 19, www.ruesterei.
ch. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00,
closed Sun, Kantine & Bar open 10:00 - 24:00, Sunday
brunch only 10:00 - 14:30. A­B
Industrial chic meets high gastronomy at Rüsterei. PD
WIRTSCHAFT IM FRANZ
If a long menu makes you nervous, Wirtschaft im Franz might
just be the alternative you’ve been looking for as only a handful
of dishes is available here for each course. It’s that simple and
we were pleasantly surprised to discover that there are nearly as
many imaginative vegetarian options as there are meat and fish
dishes. Wooden tables and deep black chairs make for a relaxed
atmosphere in this courtyard building where the food is seasonal
and of local origin. Some offerings can even be described as
daring, yet the quality is consistently extraordinary. The service
is also outstanding, and can best be summed up as casual,
yet attentive. Recommended.QB‑12, Bremgartnerstrasse
18, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) 43 558 44 22,
www.wirtschaftimfranz.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00,
Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. A­B
ZEUGHAUSKELLER
The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is situated in a mediaeval
arsenal right on Bahnhofstrasse and serves good solid
traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages,
schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out
for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people,
as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military
devices standing around are there to remind you where you
are. So don’t get too drunk, or you might end up getting
conscripted.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open
11:30 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00. €. A­B­J
zurich.inyourpocket.com

Excellent coffee and juices as well as a hip crowd at Juicery 21. 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 44 557 43 48, www.kafidihei.
 David Biedert
Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from
ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss
tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is
no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic
beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many
double as bars in the evening rather than closing.
BOVELLI
Bovelli is a stylish café right in the city centre. Its high
ceiling, elegant wooden tables and designer lamps make
for a smart atmosphere. The drinks and the food on offer
are written on the huge blackboard behind the bar. In
addition to the myriad coffee variations and blends, it also
has plenty of desserts and some snacks, but if you head
over here later in the day for a break from shopping, you
can try one of many tasty cocktails. In fact, the owners seem
to have transferred their passion for mixed drinks from their
other successful endeavours, namely the bars Dante and Le
Raymond.QF‑12, Sihlstrasse 20, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41)
44 210 40 60, www.bovelli.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 21:00, closed Sun. A­J
NEW
JUICERY 21
The name says it all. Enjoy freshly squeezed juices from
good old orange to fancier mixes with ginger and
cucumber. This cool place is slightly hidden next to the City
swimming pool and offers huge windows and white tiles
behind the bar. Order food like Açaí  bowls and porridge
for breakfast  or bagels and quinoa bowls for lunch. The
quinoa with mango, nuts and avocado we had was simply
excellent. The young and hip crowd that frequents this
place appreciates the abundant magazines, the small
outdoor area and the easy-going style here and in case
you’re wondering, yes, they do a wide variety of coffees
here, too.QE‑12, Sihlstrasse 93, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41)
44 221 93 95, www.juicery21.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A­B­J
KAFI DIHEI
A little off the tourist trail in the Wiedikon district, this
is one of our favourite places for breakfast and coffee
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Cafés
breaks. With a mix of old furniture and wallpaper
covered in flower bouquets, Dihei (At Home) has a touch
of your grandmother’s living room, which seems to put
everyone at ease. It serves breakfast every day until
16:00 including the Swiss-style meal with different types
of bread, butter and jam, or the more hearty option with
scrambled eggs, bacon and sausages, a good choice
if you’re still dealing with the consequences of last
night’s pub crawl. You can also get burgers, schnitzel,
chèvre chaud (warm goat cheese) and the like for
lunch and dinner. We love the quality of the food and
the dedication of the staff, not to mention the lovely
outdoor seating area. You can’t make a reservation on the
weekend, but queuing up will usually get you a place to
sit within a few minutes.QA‑12, Zurlindenstrasse 231,
ch. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue. A­B
PÉCLARD IM SCHOBER
What looks from outside like a small, simple pastry shop
is in fact one of the city’s oldest coffeehouses. It’s very
busy, especially on weekends. Get a seat on one of the
tables scattered over the various storeys of this old-
town-house and let the waiter serve you coffee or a hot
chocolate together with one of the sweet sins you can
choose from the display cabinet by the entrance. Though
it‘s not run by the Schober family anymore, stepping in
here is a little trip back in time to the belle epoque.QG‑13,
Napfgasse 4, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 51 50,
www.peclard-zurich.ch. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. A­B­J
BREAKFAST
Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss
families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts,
a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, which
is served with butter, jam, honey, cheeses or cold
meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads -
rye bread, corn bread or potato-and-walnut bread to
name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread.
Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are
also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong
roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated
apple, ground hazelnuts and yogurt in the classic
birchermüesli version.
Here are some of our favourite breakfast places:
KAFI DIHEI Breakfast served daily (except Tuesdays)
until 16:00. Enjoy different variations of the Swiss meal
with a variety of breads and jams or a hearty hangover
breakfast.Q see overleaf.
JUICERY 21 This cool city centre venue serves porridge
and Açaí bowls for breakfast - in addition to freshly
squeezed juices, that is. Q see overlaf.
October – November 2018 27
 Nightlife
Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative
bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the
weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to
the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are
Niederdorf in the old town (G-11/13), the streets around
Langstrasse (C/D-10/11) and Zurich West (B/C-7/8). There is a
lively club scene, but with dozens of bars around, bar-hopping
can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great,
but also quite expensive. Most venues take credit cards, but
if you’re heading for bars and clubs, have some cash handy
as some still have minimums for cards. If you prefer it on the
quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town,
around Paradeplatz and elsewhere. Check out more listings
and recommendations at www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
Feel like you’re in the living room of a music enthusiast at
Kasheme. PD
CASUAL BARS
ANDORRA
This small place with its jazz-inspired atmosphere offers
everything a classic bar needs: five beers on tap (Guiness
and different types of the local Chopfab), an international
selection of bottled beers (yes, think craft beers) and an
excellent choice of single malts, cocktails and wines. If
you’re feeling peckish they serve sandwiches and some
tapas. Most of the time the music is pre-recorded, but they
have the occasional live band in from time to time.QG‑13,
Münstergasse 20, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 252 65 70,
www.andorra.ch. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 -
04:00. A­JE
CALVADOS
With the walls covered in historic photos of sport
stars and the TVs that are almost always on, it quickly
becomes obvious - Calvados is a sports bar. The TVs
mainly show soccer, but other sports like ice hockey
and golf too, sometimes even two different events are
showing on separate screens. But with the great selection
of beers, cocktails, spirits and some snacks (try their
sandwiches!), Calvados is also an option if you’re not that
into sports - especially in summer where the outside seating
on Idaplatz square is the top scorer.QA‑12, Idaplatz 4,
8Bertastrasse, tel. (+41) 43 960 08 10, www.lecalvados.ch.
Open 16:00 - late, Sat & Sun 15:00 - late. A
28 Zurich In Your Pocket
SYMBOL KEY
A Credit cards accepted N No credit cards
E Concerts K Restaurant
J City centre location
X Separate smoker’s lounge
NEW
KASHEME
While many bars claim to have a living room-style
atmosphere, Kasheme actually does look and feel like a
living room. One owned by a music enthusiast that is. Vinyl
records, musical instruments, sofas with colourful pillows
and a huge tentacle like lamp festooned with a dozen or so
old school shades create a genuinely cosy atmosphere here.
From Wednesday to Saturday you can not only listen to DJs
and musicians playing records, but also other personalities
who play what they listen to at home at so-called listening
sessions. Sometimes live acts perform and there’s actually
a small dance floor in the studio in the basement. It’s also
a vinyl record store until 19:00  offering a well-curated
selection of records. You see, music really is king here, but
don’t worry as the bar is also well-curated.QD‑9, Neugasse
56, 8Limmatplatz, www.kasheme.com. Open 17:00
- 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri 17:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 -
04:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00, closed Mon. A
WIDDER GARAGE
The Widder Garage was set up as the temporary home of
the Widder Bar while it was being renovated. And while the
original bar is quite upmarket, the Garage is like a younger
brother: cheekier and more daring, but from the same good
family. The bar in this former old town garage is actually
made of pianos, the beers are cooled in a bathtub and
hundreds of vinyl records on the shelves lend it a retro touch
that we absolutely love. But make no mistake: the service
and the cocktails are just as good as at the original location
and many of the single malts and rare spirits for which the
Widder is so famous are also available here. The original
Widder has since reopened, but the Garage will continue to
impress its patrons.QF‑13, Augustinerhof 1, 8Rennweg,
tel. (+41) 44 224 27 72, www.widderhotel.com. Wed, Thu
17:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 17:30 - 02:00, closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
AJ
CRAFT BEER BARS
ELDORADO
This eldorado is one for beer experts. At this cool joint
they have 101 different beers on offer, many of them craft
beers from small breweries from Switzerland and around
the world. There are many specialities, for example from
Belgium, some of which seem more in the champagne
league to us. If you want to drink your way through the whole
beer list, you can become an El Dorado. But you might need
zurich.inyourpocket.com

more than one evening. Ask the barmen for your personal
card. Occasional concerts.QE‑9, Limmatstrasse 109,
8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 43 540 90 31, www.eldorado
-zh.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri
17:00 - 02:00, Sat 20:00 - 02:00, Closed Sun. A­E
THE ALEHOUSE
With 21 different craft beers on draught and on the hand
pump, Alehouse is one of the best-stocked bars of its genre in
town. You’re guaranteed to find a brew that suits you here, be
it a hoppy IPA, a Belgian amber or perhaps a chocolate stout.
A good number of the beers on offer also happen to be local,
but you’ll find a complete list of what’s currently available on
its website. The bartender is usually happy to give you a taster
before ordering and the pub-like atmosphere is a favourite of
students and expats, many of whom speak English. If you feel
the need to strap on the old feedbag, they also do classic bar
fare like burgers, fish and chips, chicken and salads.QH‑10,
Universitätstrasse 23, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. (+41)
44 542 87 45, www.alehouse.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. A­K
It’s all about beer at the Alehouse. ZIYP
THE INTERNATIONAL
This bar is dedicated to craft beers from small breweries.
They have a great choice of around 50 different ones from
all around Switzerland on offer, and another 50 from around
the world, many from Belgium, the US and Canada. Around
10 are on tap. The huge board on the wall behind the bar
lists them grouped by types, like India pale ales, stouts,
amber etc. to help you choose. Or tell the barkeeper what
taste you like and he will be happy to help. Despite the
many Swiss beers, lots of expats are regulars here. While the
bar looked a touch too sterile when they opened, it now
has the feel of a proper beer joint. You love craft beers? You
will like it here.QD‑9, Luisenstrasse 7, 8Röntgenstrasse,
www.theinternational.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00. A
CLASSY BARS
JULES VERNE PANORAMA BAR (BRASSERIE LIPP)
Located in the same tower as the Urania observatory close
to Bahnhofstrasse, the Jules Verne bar boasts a spectacular
view over Zurich’s city centre. Enter the Brasserie Lipp and
take the elevator on the right hand side straight to the top.
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Nightlife
Up there, try to get a table at the window, order a cocktail
at the bar and take in the view of Zurich’s old town with
the lake and the Alps in the background. For lunch they
serve soups, salads, seafood and meat from the Brasserie
Lipp, in the evening it’s a bar only.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 9,
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 43 888 66 66, www.jules-verne.ch.
Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 -
23:00 A
RIVE GAUCHE
The Rive Gauche bar attracts a mixed crowd: the guests of
the five-star hotel Baur au Lac in whose premises the bar
is situated mix with the young city crowd. With the dark
wooden bar, the mirrors on the wall and the living-room-
like lampshades the bar looks classic British with a touch
of modernity. A good place for cocktails and drinks right in
the centre of the city. They have a lovely terrace for balmy
summer evenings. The Rive Gauche is also a restaurant with
good, rather pricey meat and seafood on the menu.QF‑14,
Talstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 220 50 60,
www.agauche.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 -
01:00. Closed Sun. A­J­K
COCKTAIL BARS
BAR 63
When the new owners took over in 2009, this venue
(established in 1963) had seen better days. However, they
were wise enough to only give it a facelift, conserving its
1960s charm, so now it’s not what one would call fancy,
but it’s all the more likeable. There is an ever-changing
selection of cocktails available and the variety of whiskeys
and rum is enormous. There are, for example, roughly 100
rums from 25 countries, including unusual offerings from
such exotic places as Nepal. They also sell a couple of wines
by the glass and it’s generally a good place for a laid-back
start to an evening out in the Langstrasse district.QD‑10,
Rolandstrasse 19, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 75
83, www.bar63.ch. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00,
Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A
CASINO
SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH
More than 350 slot machines and the table games
roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em
poker on two floors make this casino the largest in
Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in
at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your
physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge.
The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access
you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and
have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance
fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QE‑12, Gessnerallee 3-5,
8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30,
www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 05:00, table games start at 14:00.
October – November 2018 29
 Nightlife
TALES
At this bar they really are dedicated to the fine art of
making cocktails. And yes, think way further than a
classy Old Fashioned. The cocktail list is bound in fine
leather and features fancy variations of the recent trend
of cocktails with kitchen herbs as well as classics and
variations. But you can also just tell the barkeepers (and
owners) Michel and Wolfgang the style of cocktail and
kind of tastes you like, and they will surprise you with one
of their creations. Their spirits library is huge. A classy bar
for cocktail lovers. And who isn’t one these days?QE‑12,
Selnaustrasse 29, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 542 38 02,
www.tales-bar.ch. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 20:00 - 03:00.
Closed Sun. AJ
WINE BARS
GAMPER BAR
This wine bar is run by the owners of the successful
Gamper  restaurant. We like the sober atmosphere of the
locale that’s set by the plywood bar, the simple metal rack
in the corner and the reddish leather chairs with  some
original patina. The glass mosaic on the window  frames
and part of the ceiling also act as a welcome contrast.
Ask the barkeeper for the wines that are currently served
by the glass as he’ll be more than happy to recommend
something that suits your taste. They also have a
comprehensive list of mainly  European wines sold by
the bottle and offer some cold dishes like the delicious
mozzarella with Speck (lardo)  and fennel seeds we had
or other snacks like olives, boquerones, salamettli and the
like. The music is provided by an old vinyl player, which
only adds to the stylish and easy-going atmosphere here.
QC‑10, Dienerstrasse 75, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43
243 78 78, www.gamper-bar.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00,
closed Mon, Sun. A
Perfect for an extended apero: Gamper Bar. Michael Schoch
WEINSCHENKE (HOTEL HIRSCHEN)
This delicately lit historic vaulted cellar has a great
atmosphere for a wine tavern. The Weinschenke is
located in the building of the hotel Hirschen and is
entered from the small street (Hirschengasse) on the
right-hand side of the hotel. Sit at the wooden tables
and enjoy a glass of one of the 12 bottled wines that are
30 Zurich In Your Pocket
sold here by the glass. As appetizers we can recommend
mostbröckli, local dried meat or a choice of Swiss cheese.
In nice weather you can take your wineglass up to the
rooftop terrace  (there is a lift) where you are beautifully
surrounded by old town houses - a real hidden gem.
QG‑12, Hirschengasse 6, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke,
tel. (+41) 43 268 33 33, www.hirschen-zuerich.ch.
Open 16:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. AJ
DANCE BARS
LONGSTREET
Hundreds of dimly gleaming old-fashioned light bulbs on
the ceiling and the red plush on the wall make you think
you are entering a burlesque strip bar of the old days. But
don‘t be spoofed: there have been no half-naked girls
dancing on stage in this bar for years. Instead the hip crowd
has taken over to party all week long: the small dance floor
upstairs with a DJ is packed almost every night.QD‑11,
Langstrasse 92, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 21
72, www.longstreetbar.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu
18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Closed Sun. A­X
TALACKER
The Talacker is still very popular with the city centre’s hip
crowd. They kept the shabby style of the old café it once
was and mixed it with wall paper decorated with huge
dogs - just too cool to be true. Have an Asian-style lunch
(soups, curries, 11:45 - 15:00), or simply mingle with
Zurich’s twenty- and thirty-somethings having fun to the
DJ’s records. Usually it is too crowded to dance, but don’t
hesitate to give it a go, if you find half a square metre to
do so.QE‑13, Talacker 41, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44
211 20 50, www.talackerbar.ch. Open 11:45 - 24:00, Thu
11:45 - 01:00, Fri 11:45 - 02:30, Sat 16:00 - 02:30, closed
Sun. A­JK
ALTERNATIVE BARS
Zurich’s nightlife offers some great alternative bars - check
out our listings below. When heading to one of these bars,
make sure you have cash handy, as some of them do not
take credit cards.
MARS BAR
Opened many years ago by Rolle - you will recognize him
by the toothpick in his mouth - the Mars Bar has become
the home of supporters of the local football team FC
Zurich (see their games live on a big HD screen, as well as
German bundesliga every Saturday at 15:00). Rock music
lovers also hang out here, in fact anyone who doesn‘t really
give a damn about what happens to be the taste of the
moment. Get some goat’s cheese or a sausage for a snack
- or ask for Zwickelbier from Müllerbräu, something Rolle
brought with him from his past, when he was a barkeeper
in the suburbs of Zurich.QD‑10, Neufrankengasse
15, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 322 03 77,
www.marsbar.ch. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. NX
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
SAFARI BAR
A simple, cool bar frequented by locals, just off the main
pedestrian street in Niederdorf. Come here for a chat
with your friends at one of the tables - or grab a seat at
the long bar where it is easy to get talking to others. In the
background there is usually rock music - and if you have a
drink in mind which is not on the menu - just ask for it. If
they have the ingredients, they will be happy to prepare
it for you.QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 29, 8Central, tel.
(+41) 44 262 12 40, www.safaribar.ch. Open 12:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. AJ

PUBS & DRINKERIES
EDI’S WEINSTUBE
At Edi’s, elderly regulars mix with youngsters and students
making for an interesting combination of generations. The
exceptionally low prices (from 3Sfr per dl wine, 21Sfr per
bottle!) might be one reason for the popularity of the bar
regardless of age, but Edi’s has some rather special features
beyond the bargain prices: the bar is a porn art museum
and a wine shop too (7.90Sfr per bottle for take away, 2.60
Retro light bulbs and bright red colours at Longstreet. usgang.ch
a 5dl can of beer, Fri & Sat take away only until 22:00). Every
month, a new artist displays works of a more or less carnal
kind. But don’t get the wrong impression, this brightly
coloured bar isn’t smutty.QG‑12, Stuessihofstatt 14,
8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 260 61 57, www.weinstube.ch.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 -
22:00. NJ

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of the
flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is legal in
Switzerland, so you can find everything from strip bars
and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort services in
Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam, Zurich is an
inviting destination if you’re looking for carnal pleasures
and sexy ladies in various states of undress.
Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated by
the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate and this
is only granted if a business follows all of the security,
health, social security and tax regulations, doesn’t
place any undue pressure on the sex workers, ensures
their health and guarantees violence prevention. For
all these reasons, sex clubs are probably the best and
safest option if you’re looking for sex in Zurich. Street
prostitution is also regulated, but is only permitted
in a few areas (i.e. Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf
district) and only at certain times.
Here are some reputable strip bars and massage
parlours. Check our website www.zurich.inyourpocket.com
for more listings and sex clubs.
We believe the places we list to be upstanding
businesses, but we still recommend employing simple
common sense when delving into the world of adult
entertainment.
SECRET TANTRA
Sensual erotic massages and tantric love rituals. Check
its website www.secret-tantra.ch for details or call for
an appointment.QVolketswil, tel. (+41) 77 267 72 02,
www.secret-tantra.ch.
MAXIM
On the stage of the Maxim in Niederdorf the ladies have
been stripping since 1931. Sit on one of the sofas, relax
and enjoy.QG‑13, Schoffelgasse 2, 8Rathaus, tel.
(+41) 44 261 70 30, www.nightclub -maxim.ch. Open
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00.

SECRET TANTRA
sensual massages and love rituals
incall & outcall

+41 77 267 72 02 | secret-tantra.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 31
 Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC VENUES
Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock,
metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find
bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The
clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell
you what you can usually expect. Some are just open
if there is a concert. For their daily programme, check
the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch.
MEHRSPUR
This is the music club and bar of the Zurich University
of the Arts. It features a bar on the ground level
and a subterranean concert hall. They usually have
concerts on many days of the week and on Fri &
Sat there are sometimes after-show parties.QA‑7,
Förrlibuckstrasse 109, 8Toni Areal, tel. (+41) 43 446
50 86, www.mehrspur.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon
11:00 - 23:00, Tue 11:00 - 01:00, Wed 11:00 - 23:30,
Sat 17:00 - 01:00, closed Sun.
MOODS
With more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is
Zurich’s prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and
world music. Big international names as well as many
Swiss artists. After-show parties on the weekend.QB‑7,
Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80
00, www.moods.ch.
KENNEDY’S IRISH PUB
The Kennedy’s is an Irish pub with a large outdoor area,
located close to the main train station. It’s popular with
expats and locals alike. They have Guinness, Smithwicks
and Magners Cider on tap and really helpful and friendly
staff and of course all the major sports on different flat
and big screens. Besides burgers, salads and sandwiches
they do some genuine pies, for example a beef and
Guinness one we liked very much. Pub Quiz on Monday
nights!QE‑11, Freischützgasse 14, 8Sihlpost, tel.
(+41) 44 241 92 94, www.kennedys.ch. Open 11:30 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00, Kitchen
closes 22:00. AJ­E­K
CLUBS
ICON
Located in the same 300 year-old old town house as
the Tao restaurant, the small Icon club is a rather special
clubbing venue. To fit in, you should dress up and be
at least 20 or years of age (depending on the night).
The wooden beams on the ceiling give the dance floor
something of a historical touch. The music which is usually
somewhere between house, mash up, party tunes and
deep house, however, is not more special than anywhere
else.QF-13, St. Petergasse 1, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41)
44 448 11 33, www.icon-club.ch. Usually open Fri & Sat
22:00 - 04:00. Fri no admission, Sat around 25Sfr. AJ­
32 Zurich In Your Pocket
KAUFLEUTEN
The Kaufleuten club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife:
the rich, the beautiful and wannabes like us queue up
almost every weekday to party, mostly to electronic music
and disco-house sounds (sometimes party tunes, r’n’b and
hip hop or reggaeton). Dress to impress is the motto, and
for some people here looking the part seems to be very
important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night
out.QF‑13, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44
225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. Open usually Tue, Fri &
Sat 23:00 - 04:00/05:00, other days check programme.
Admission around 25Sfr. A­J­X­E
MINIROCK
With the opening of Minirock, lovers of rock, indie punk
and the like finally have a new place to call home in Zurich.
With strips of multi-coloured neon lights covering the
ceiling and the wall, at first glance this small club actually
puts one in mind of a retro disco lounge, but the crowd
in black t-shirts with Motörhead logos and the huge
guitar amplifier behind the bar make it clear that this is a
place for some good old rock fun. But don’t worry. You’ll
also fit in here even if you don’t look like Slash from Guns
N’ Roses. Just grab a beer at the bar and get ready to
rock!QA‑11, Badenerstrasse 281, 8Zypressenstrasse,
www.minirockzh.ch. Wed 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 -
02:00, Fri 17:00 - 04:00, Sat 20:00 - 04:00, closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. Sometimes admission around 5Sfr, more for
concerts. A
Rock music fans finally have a place to call home at Minirock. ZIYP
PLAZA
The Plaza bis a big club with two dance floors (and yes, you
can smoke on the smaller one!). DJ’s play sounds from mash
up, 90s and 80s, r’n’b to disco, house and other electronic
music. The Plaza is popular with all kinds of people - a good
place to end your bar tour around Langstrasse. Thursday
students night, free admission for students before 23:00.
QC‑12, Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel.
(+41) 44 542 90 90, www.plaza-zurich.ch. Club open
Thu 22:00 - late, Fri & Sat 23:00 - late. Bar open Tue - Fri
17:00 - late, Sat 18:00 - late. Admission Fri & Sat around
25Sfr. A­X­E
zurich.inyourpocket.com

The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and
Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The
districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and
merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are
now home to many international companies, the trade fair,
some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You
definitely don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good
night out.
RESTAURANTS
GIESSEREI OERLIKON
The Giesserei has made itself a name as a fine dining restaurant,
though the place still has a feel like the last workers just left this
ancient foundry a couple of weeks ago. The menu is simple:
every day there are a few different starters, main courses and
desserts - an international mix according to the season and the
desires of the kitchen crew. Recommended.QF‑2, Birchstrasse
108, 8Regensbergerbrücke, tel. (+41) 43 205 10 10,
www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat
17:30 - 24:00, closed Sun. €€. A­B
Everybody loves the vegetarian buffet at tibits. PD
KAI
Close to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi bar
with a modern and stylish decor complete with conveyor
belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the maki, nigiri or
uramaki running by. Or simply ask the chef on the other
side to make your favourite creation. There are tables as well
and a lot more than just sushi: menu deals, fried noodles,
meat... Saturday & Sunday night there is all you can eat
sushi for 69Sfr - book seats in advance.QEllen-Widmann-
Weg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 538 42 47,
www.kaisushi.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 17:30 - 23:00, Kitchen open until 22:00. €€. A­B
PERRON 9
The culinary concept at Perron 9 is focussed on high
quality meat - entrecôte, roast chicken, or something
from the charcoal grill - and includes some nice touches of
traditional Alpine cuisine, like sauerkraut or pumpkin seeds.
You’ll also find fish or vegetarian dishes on the menu. The
industrial-age rooms with the cast-iron pillars make for a
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Zurich Nord
pleasing surrounding.QG‑1, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof
Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 43 288 94 45, www.perron9.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, closed Mon, Sat, Sun, bistro
Gleis 9 open daily 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B
TIBITS OERLIKON
The bounteous vegetarian buffet is also the focal point of
the tibits branch in Zurich Nord. Choose from around 40
homemade salads, hot daily specials, soups, sandwiches
and sweets. Take it from us, it’s more than just tasty and many
of the dishes are actually not just vegetarian, but vegan.
The colourful wallpaper and the modern designer lamps
make for the typical airy urban tibits atmosphere. A kids’
corner is available in the basement and, yes, all the food can
be ordered as takeaway.QH‑1, Tramstrasse 2, 8Sternen
Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 317 25 55, www.tibits.ch.
Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €. A­B
TRES AMIGOS
The nine exisiting Tres Amigos restaurants prove the
success of the simple concept: tasty Texmex food and drinks
in a colorful Mexican setting including the compulsory
sombrero on the wall. The branch in Zurich Nord is much
the same: nachos, enchilladas, fajitas, tacos - it’s all there for
you. As well as meat like spare ribs or beef fillet skewers and
sea food like shrimps.QG‑1, Querstrasse 16, 8Bahnhof
Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 82 52, www.tresamigos.ch.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Wed 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00,
Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:30 - 23:00, kitchen open all day
until 22:30, Fri & Sat 23:30. €€. A­B
NIGHTLIFE
COOPER’S PUB
Located just next to Oerlikon train station (and in walking
distance of the Swissôtel and the Courtyard Marriott),
the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden
floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of
town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness
on tap, all the sports on TV and serve really affordable
burgers. There are also fish & chips, pies and salads
on the menu. Occasionally concerts. Cheers!QH‑1,
Schaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon,
tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch.
Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00
- 22:00. A­K
JAIME EL BARCO
The Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in
Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot
panini for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from
the cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a
hard day of walking or working. There is table football
and darts - quite some entertainment in this part of
the city.QOtto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon,
tel. (+41) 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. Open 09:00 -
14:00, 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.E
October – November 2018 33
 Sightseeing
The Schipfe riverside in the old town on an autumn morning. | Zurich Tourism
Zurich’s largely intact medieval town on the one hand
and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms.
It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries
showing international art. Admission to many places is free,
if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced
price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are
usually closed on Mondays.
MAIN SIGHTS
If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights
represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the
Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making
it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and
Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches.
Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot
today, while the central police station is another unlikely
lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its
entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto
Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not
man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak.
FRAUMÜNSTER
Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the
magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created
by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the
windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this
Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than
just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s
abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess
had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times
34 Zurich In Your Pocket
in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner
of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit
decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop
skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. Since
summer 2016 the crypt is open to visitors. Be considerate,
no photos, no visiting during Sunday services.QG‑13,
Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus, www.fraumuenster.ch.
Open 10:00 - 18:00 (Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00). Admission
5Sfr, incl. audioguide (available in 8 languages) or
brochure and admission to crypt museum. Children free.
Groups must book time slots in advance.
GIACOMETTI MURALS
In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters,
Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals
adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls (see photo on p.
36). We think this impressive work is a must see for any
Zurich visitor! The Giacomettis were a family of artists:
Augusto’s cousin Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s
son Alberto (1901 - 1966) were successful artists too. And
while Alberto and his haggard bronze figures are probably
the best known Giacomettis (you can see some of those
figures in the permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus),
Augusto had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he
studied and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance
hall of Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the
only work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the
art of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows
in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise
in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and
windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain
zurich.inyourpocket.com

the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals is
free, the opening hours are quite short though.QG‑12,
Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open
09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, ​admission free, ID required.
GROSSMÜNSTER
The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster
are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view
over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (5/2Sfr
admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00 (16:30 in winter),
Sun 12:30 - 17:00 (16:30 in winter)). According to legend,
Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at
the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the
Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries
later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich
and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after
a hint from his horse. Since the Reformation the church has
a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist
Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009,
partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with
a museum on the Reformation are also accessible. Audioguide
in different languages available (5Sfr plus 5Sfr deposit).QG‑13,
Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus, www.grossmuenster.ch.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, (Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00).
The towers of Grossmünster in the back and Wasserkirche in the
front. Zurich Tourism
UETLIBERG
The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking
the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of
Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around
450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top
(admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and
offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the
Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year
round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main
station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware that you
need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich
(with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the
ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute
walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You
can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in
direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there
two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour.
You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good
shoes and staying on the path, especially in winter.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Sightseeing
LAKE ZURICH
Zurich Tourism
The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights
and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the
season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along
the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few
hundred metres a park fills the expanse between
the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also
known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden
is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing
or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids.
Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with
some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway
station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or
train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is
a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start
at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing
Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung,
and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese,
a large field where many cultural events take place. If
you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the
restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik
(red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney.
LAKE ZURICH CRUISES
The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on
Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want ten
minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the
routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and Bürkliplatz-Zürichhorn
are included in any public transport ticket covering zone
110. If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with
a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They
all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue
several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for
example starts in summer every 30 minutes between
09:10 and 18/19:40, (after October 21 daily at 12:40 and
14:10, more frequent on weekends), the 4-hour one at
least four times a day (after October 21 daily at 13:30).
Tickets and timetables are available at the port. Standard
public transport tickets are valid.QF‑14, Bürkliplatz,
8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.
ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-34.40Sfr, children
half the price, discount with Zurich public transport
day cards.
October – November 2018 35
 Sightseeing
THE GIACOMETTIS
Zurich Tourism
The striking, elongated, haggard bronze figures are
what Alberto Giacometti (1901 - 1966) is best known
for, and Zurich is a great place to see them, as the
Kunsthaus houses one of the best collections of his
work worldwide. Giacometti’s portrait and work adorn
today’s 100Sfr banknotes. But Zurich actually has more
- more Giacomettis that is. Alberto’s father, Giovanni
Giacometti (1868 - 1933), and his cousin, Augusto
Giacometti (1877 - 1947), were successful artists in
their own right. All of them came from mountainous
and very poor Val Bregaglia on the south-eastern edge
of Switzerland. Some of Giovanni’s (post-)impressionist
paintings, mainly of his beautiful mountain home, are
on display at the Kunsthaus. Augusto had the strongest
connection to Zurich, as he studied and later lived here.
Some of his best work is also here. He revitalised the art
of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows
in the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting
paradise in the northern transept of the Fraumünster
(1945) and windows in the Wasserkirche. The piece
of work he made his name with, however, are the
murals in the vaulted entrance hall of Zurich’s police
headquarters (1923 - 25), see p. 34.
LINDENHOF
This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s old town used to
be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and
later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in
the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the
right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the
square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty
and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the
back of the square.QG‑12, 8Rathaus.
CHURCHES
See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the
churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster.
ST. PETER
St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on
all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The
36 Zurich In Your Pocket
diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are
said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich,
Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb
stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The
nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir
and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in
1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as a
Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QF‑13,
St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz, www.st-peter-zh.ch.
Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
WASSERKIRCHE
The Wasserkirche, water church, is on the banks of the
Limmat - but still, why the name? Actually, it was on an
island in the river until the Limmatquai was built in 1839.
Dating at least from the 10th century, what you see
today is late Gothic style from the 15th century. See also
the stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti in
the choir and the crypt with tombs almost as old as the
church. A statue of forbidding Huldrich Zwingli stands at
Lindenhof, an idyllic square in the old town. Zurich Tourism
one end. Under the stone arches outside, the Kunstkiosk
(art kiosque) sells books and prints and street musicians
set up shop. If you get lucky you’ll hear the accordionist
who gives masterful Bach recitals. Helmhaus gallery in the
same building.QG‑13, Limmatquai 31, 8Helmhaus,
www.wasserkirche.ch. Open 12:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 17:00, closed Mon, Tue.
GARDENS & PARKS
BOTANISCHER GARTEN (BOTANICAL GARDEN)
The university’s botanical garden lies on a hillside on the
eastern side of the lake. You can find different vegetation
zones here: a Mediterranean area, an Alpinium with plants
from the mountains, an area simulating an African wadi
and several bench areas which are an ideal habitat for tired
visitors. There are three UFO-like greenhouses with tropical
and subtropical climates inside, housing exotic orchids or
cactuses and other survivalists in a simulated savannah.
There is a cafeteria as well.QJ‑16, Zollikerstrasse 107,
8Hegibachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 634 84 61, www.
bg.uzh.ch. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 - 17:00.
Greenhouses 09:30 - 17:00 (from Nov - Dec 9, 2018
greenhouses closed). Admission free.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
CACTUS COLLECTION
This cactus collection houses a plethora of prickly plants, a
splendid selection of succulents in six greenhouses. A bit
off the beaten track, but easier to get to than most deserts.
Apart from the plants on show, there are occasional events
and on Wednesdays from 14:00 to 16:00 you can consult
an expert on any trouble with cactuses you may have.
QMythenquai 88, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. (+41) 43 344
34 80, www.stadt-zuerich.ch/sukkulenten. Open 09:00
- 16:30. Admission free.

MUSEUMS & ART

Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with
all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and
the ones we like best. You can find more information in
English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.
FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM
Zurich is the hometown of the International Federation
of Association Football or FIFA. Its very own museum tells
the history of football, FIFA and the World Cup over more
than 3,000m2. You’re initially met with the jerseys of all 211
FIFA member associations, which are on display in a kind of
colour-coded rainbow, as well as a timeline that takes you
through the history of FIFA. The second floor is dedicated
to the World Cup complete with dozens of historic artefacts
including the tracksuit that football’s first real star Pelé wore
in 1958. And yes, the original FIFA World Cup trophy is also
A place to worship football: the FIFA World Football Museum. PD
on display! The third and last floor is dedicated to the impact
football has had and continues to have on society. There’s
also a gaming zone with giant pinball machines where you
and your kids can test your skills with actual footballs. The
museum is great for football fans and families and a bistro,
a café-bar, a shop and the Sportsbar 1904 can also be found
at the museum.QE‑15, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge,
tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00,
closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students 18Sfr, kids
younger than seven free, families 64Sfr. For Tuesdays
50% discount when you book tickets online.

30 years S MI:
equity indic es e x plained!
New special exhibition at
the Finance Museum starting
1 June 2018

www.finanzmuseum.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 37

 Sightseeing
MORE FOR LESS
WITH THE ZÜRICH CARD
You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the
Zürich Card can help you make the most of it.
For a busy day or two in Zurich,
you can’t really go wrong
with the Zürich Card. It gives
you free entry to a number of great museums like the
National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you
a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng Cutlery or
Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several
of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino and many
restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the
card or some other extra, if you have a main course first.
The Zürich Card also gives you unlimited use of trams,
buses and trains within the city and includes the train
trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s
little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe Zürich
Card costs 27/19Sfr for 24hr and 53/37Sfr for 72hr.
Buy it at SBB counters, at the airport, train stations,
at the tourist information at the main station or at all
VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket
machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check
www.zuerich.com/zuerichcard for the full range of
discounts. The Zürich Card is issued by Zürich Tourism
who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.
KATSINAM
Cloud People and Ancestral Spirits
NONAM Tuesday to Friday 1pm – 5pm
Seefeldstr. 317 Saturday,  Sunday 10am – 5pm
8008 Zürich closed on Mondays
nonam.ch
38 Zurich In Your Pocket
SCHWEIZER FINANZMUSEUM
(FINANCE MUSEUM)
With all its banks Zurich is known as the city for finance
and money and it finally has a museum dedicated to the
subject. What are stocks, how were they traded and how
does it work today? And how did Switzerland become an
important marketplace for finance? These questions and
more are answered by audio installations (Alfred Escher,
Zurich’s railway pioneer and founder of the bank Credit
Suisse, will explain everything to you!) as well as interactive
video installations. Want to go public with your company?
No problem, a friendly gentlemen on a video screen will
explain the process to you. There’s also a short trainee
programme available for stockbrokers and a game where
you can prove your skills afterwards. The museum gives you
an insight into the world of finance and is situated in the
headquarters of SIX, the company that operates the Swiss
stock exchange. You can also download its free app to your
smartphone, which will guide you through the museum.
QPfingstweidstrasse 110, 8Sportweg, tel. (+41) 58
399 32 88, www.finanzmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10/8Sfr, children up to 12
years free.
You can’t take these home: native clothes at NONAM. PD
KUNSTHAUS
Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with
work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini
or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work
including some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by
international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or
Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are
usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large,
one small (see section Culture & Events). English language
audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor.
QH‑13, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84
84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission for collection 16/11Sfr,
for exhibitions 23/18Sfr, combined ticket 26/19Sfr. Free
admission to the collection every Wednesday.
NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM)
It will take you a while to get through the permanent
exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to
accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and secret
zurich.inyourpocket.com

MARKETS
ROSENHOFMARKT
Incense sticks, trinkets and hippie-style clothes are
on offer on Thursdays and Saturdays at the Rosenhof,
a hidden square in the Niederdorf part of the old
town. Artists also sell their handcrafted jewellery and
pottery. There is also food from around the world.
QG‑12, Rosenhof, 8Rathaus, www.gld.ch. March
- December Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry collection of
old things. There are four thematic areas: the first section
shows the history of migration and settlement, the second
examines religious and intellectual history, the third is
dedicated to Swiss political history and the fourth section
focusses on economy. For most exhibits explanations in
English are available. There are temporary exhibitions on
changing topics (see Culture & Events section of this guide).
In August 2016 the striking concrete extension that has
been built over the last few years opened to the public. The
museum has now finally much more space for exhibitions, a
study centre and a large restaurant. E-guide in the ‘National
Museum’ app for your smartphone available in English and
other languages or hire a special device at the entrance.
QF‑10, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41)
58 466 65 11, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 -
17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr.
Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Sightseeing
NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM)
The permanent exhibition of the North America Native
Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or
totem poles from six regions in the USA and Canada.
The exhibitions’ aim is to render a better understanding
of the natives of North America and show the various
ways the Inuit, Indian and Métis groups lived.
QSeefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. (+41)
43 499 24 40, www.nonam.ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission
12/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK
A professional guide will take you on this two-hour
walk through the old town of Zurich. What links famous
literati, scientists or visionaries such as Albert Einstein,
Lenin and the Dadaists with Zurich? Discover the city’s
history in English and German. Good choice if you really
want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go.
For other walks such as the ones on design and gourmet
food ask at the Tourist Information.QG‑11, Tourist
InformationMain Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel.
(+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the
Tourist Information at the main train station. Daily
15:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English).
In Nov only Wed & Sun 11:00, Sat 11:00 (German)
& 15:00 (English). 25/12.50Sfr, 50% off with Zürich Card.
CITY TOURS
EXCURSIONS
www.switzerland-tours.ch
October – November 2018 39
 Sightseeing
You’ll see the entire old town on a guided tour. Zurich Tourism
BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR
Enjoy a city tour in an air-conditioned coach including
a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the
Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential
area of Zürichberg. In a little more than two hours you get
to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old
guild houses and the universities. There’s live commentary
in English and German as well as audio guides in Spanish,
Russian, Chinese and Japanese. In addition to the city tour,
the company also offers tours to Titlis, Pilatus, Rigi, the Rhine
Falls and Jungfraujoch, just to name a few. Excursions for
small groups and adventure packages are also available. Visit
www.switzerland-tours.ch for more information.QF‑10, Bus
Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50,
meiertours.ch
Hans Meier Tourist Ltd. • Gray Line Switzerland
THE LEADING SWISS TOUR OPERATOR
40 Zurich In Your Pocket
Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials App
www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 10:00, 13:00
and 15:30 at the Sihlquai bus terminal next to the
main train station. From Nov - March only at 13:00.
Tickets available on the spot, but reservation by phone/
website is recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr, 10 - 20%
discount with the Zürich Card.
THE ZURICH EXPERIENCE CITY TOUR
Ride around Zurich in a modern panorama coach. The
two-hour tour gives you an overview of the city showing
you the financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the
old town including the Grossmünster, Fraumünster and
St. Peter’s churches as well as the posh residential areas
on Zürichberg. Commentary including some insights into
the history of the city is provided via headsets in eleven
languages (English, French, German, Italian, Spanish
Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, Chinese, Hindi, Arabic).
They also offer many other tours, including trips to Lucerne,
Mount Pilatus, Jungfraujoch and more. See website for
more tours.QF‑10, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai/
HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily
09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. Tickets 34/17Sfr, available on the
spot, reservation by phone recommended.
4 383 78 78
Bookings +41 (0)4
Daily
Excursions
The Zurich Experience City Tour
with audio-guided commentary
Regular Sightseeing Tours
Exciting tours to Glacier Paradise Mt.Titlis,
Jungfraujoch, Heidiland, Lucerne …
Free WiFi
on-board
and many more
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Old-town stroll
at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main
throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the
old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where
the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set
off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916.

A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is

Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at
least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee
roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your
nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the
Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author
Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque

Spiegelgasse in medieval Niederdorf. zürichfoto.ch
Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river
­Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and
heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third.
We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor,
1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from
Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down
Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s
south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop,
head down the steps to the metal walkway leading
upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water
- style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster
with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic
spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river,
the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful
Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take
the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the
7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river
and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 34)
to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall.
You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old
town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other
major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk
further along the river.

Stampfenbac

Weinbergstrasse
Neum
(Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), Main Train
ai
n hof q u

Auf der Mauer

Station
ü
Bahn
with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on hofpl hlequ

hstra s
atz
B
ah

the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for
ai
Bah nho e

s
fbrücke
sse
sse

unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left. Central

tra

a
cherg
ens

Schüt
zen
Löw

gasse
s
Linthe

Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof Schw

Seile
eizerg
rgrab
(see p. 36), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left sse
enga
Zähringerstrasse

asse
Beat
en
se

into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Usteri
tr as

strass
Bahnhofqua

e s
Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here e ühl
Niederdorfstrasse

rdm
Limmat

and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and We trass
e
Härings
age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals
rasse
Seideng

who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Uraniastrasse 1 Rudolf-Brun-Brücke
hofst

Mühle g a s se
Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down
Bahn
sse a

Oetenbachgasse
Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which Badergass
e
e
mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall. lgass
Spita
Schipfe

Limmatquai

asse
unag a sse
Fort B r u nng
Ren

Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. Lindenhof

nwe

e
gass 2
K u tt el
g

36), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most

a sse

a tt
S t ü s si h o f s t
Pf a lz g .

arkt
ebg

peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of l

Augustiner Wo h l Rinderm
gass gasse
the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to e L e uen e
ass
Bahnho

Str Rathausbr. Marktgasse elg

the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the 4 5 Spieg
ehl
fstrasse

vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market

g.

sse
3 nga
Schlüss

held here on Saturdays.

Mü

Peterstr
asse Anke
nsterg

se
terstras St.
St. Pe
elg.

Limmatqu

asse

On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the sse assen
town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. nga In G
re
ai

Bä e
Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the c ke 6 ass
Münsterbrü
g
Tal

Kirch

tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where 8 7

a

sse
cke

Poststra
r

you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 41
 Shopping
A stroll through the old town comes with lots of shopping opportunities. | Zurich Tourism
Zurich has a reputation as a shopping city, even if it’s not
quite London or Milan. Bahnhofstrasse is especially renowned
as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets
in the world. For Swiss and urban design, Europaallee and
the area around Langstrasse are good places to start. As far as
shopping malls are concerned, Switzerland can’t match other
European nations where huge centres are the order of the
day, but perhaps that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping
centre, an easily accessible mall that opened in 2007, is an
example of innovative development, without the massive
sprawl of other malls. The Glatt shopping mall just outside
city limits is Switzerland’s most popular shopping centre.
The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed
here together with other notable shops. Remember that
all shops are closed on Sundays except those at the railway
stations and some souvenir shops. For more suggestions visit
www.zurich.inyourpocket.com
The main shopping areas are:
Bahnhofstrasse (F-11/14) Bahnhofstrasse leads from the
main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian
area with nearly no traffic, but watch out for the trams! It’s
world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches
and designer boutiques as well as the big department
stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years,
more big foreign companies like Apple have opened
stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional
Zurich businesses and some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing
its atmosphere. Naturally not everyone is happy about this.
42 Zurich In Your Pocket
Nevertheless, a walk down this famous street is a must for
every shopping fan. Wander down the side streets as well,
where shops are no less luxurious and some more unusual
little gems are hidden.
Niederdorf (G-11/13) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old
town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining
and nightlife than shopping, it’s well worth expanding your
shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai and
Niederdorfstrasse streets - both pedestrian areas - you’ll find
smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and
fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek.
Old Town (F/G-12/13) The old town between
Bahnhofstrasse and the River Limmat is another shopping
area not to be missed. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg
with its international clothing brands and boutiques or
Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores.
OPENING HOURS
Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are
open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller
shops including jewellers often close at 18:30, some
are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays
most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00,
department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all
shops have to be closed by law (except in train and
petrol stations).
zurich.inyourpocket.com

THE GALLERY
This is a shopping
paradise for women
and men - 20 fashion brands of renown such as Closed,
Drykorn, iBLUES, Designers Remix, iheart or Coccinelle are
on offer. The store has sections for casual trendy, modern
contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans fashion and
accessories rather than being organised by brands. And
while fashion is at the core of this store there are some
lifestyle products like candles or pillows as well - and
there is even a coffee and juice bar. They have monthly
offers for beauty products and even food or beverages,
to make your shopping experience that bit more
exciting.QF‑12, Löwenstrasse 40, 8Löwenplatz, tel.
(+41) 43 343 95 71, www.thegalleryconcept.ch. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Shopping
CHOCOLATE & SWEETS
NEW
CHOCOLAT DIETER MEIER - ORO DE CACAO
Jack-of-all-trades Dieter Meier is now also a chocolatier. He
gained fame in the electronic group Yello in the 1980s and
as a successful entrepreneur he also runs several restaurants
in Zurich and a vineyard and cattle ranch in Argentina. For
his chocolate, the cocoa isn’t roasted, but rather ground
with water in a process without heat. The result is a
chocolate that is full flavoured, but only a little bitter. You
can try it in this boutique in the old town.QG‑13, Wühre
15, 8Rathaus, www.chocolatdietermeier.com. Open
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.

BOOKS & MUSIC

16TONS
With tons of new and second-hand vinyl records, mainly of
the genres reggae, soul, rockabillly and dancehall, 16tons
is one of the city’s first addresses for vinyl lovers.QC‑11,
Anwandstrasse 25, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 44 242
02 03, www.16tons.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP

Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks
thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines,
audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located
on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just off
Bahnhofstrasse.QF‑12, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor),
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
ZERO ZERO RARE GROOVE
Ten thousands of vinyls from rock to hip hop and new
beats, from the 60s to the latest records. Thousands of CDs
as well, mostly second hand. Just tell the staff what you
are looking for and they will try to help you find it.QD‑11,
Bäckerstr. 54, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 85 20,
www.zerozero.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
The chocolate bars at Oro de Cacao are careflly sorted. PD
MAX CHOCOLATIER
Originating from Lucerne, Max Chocolatier sell their sweet
100% natural delicacies in Zurich too - in their shop next
to St. Peter church. They sell chocolates and pralines of
outstanding quality. The chocolatiers make every piece
by hand, whether it’s, say, bars of dark Madagascan
chocolate with pumpkin seeds, creamy caramel delicacies
or their own chocolate spread.QG‑13, Schlüsselgasse
12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 251 03 33,
www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

Orell Füssli The Bookshop

3rd Floor, Füsslistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich
+41 (0)44 211 04 44
English-orders@orellfuessli.ch

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Ins_BS_ZH_inyoupocket_072016.indd 1 October – November 2018 43
11.07.16 14:16
 Shopping
AIRSIDE CENTER AT FASHION
ZURICH AIRPORT CABINET
Zurich airport’s passenger area This exceptional concept store is curated by designer Nina
is a shopping centre too! And van Rooijen and her husband, fashion journalist Jeroen
quite a large one, in fact: more van Rooijen. Expect fashion and accessories beyond the
than 60 shops are located in everyday (including Nina’s very own collection), body care
the Airside Center which is products, but also lifestyle and interior design pieces from
accessible only to passengers. Zurich and around the world, all presented in an inspiring
Here you can find literally anything you might be looking way.QC‑8, Viaduktstrasse 83, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44
for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all there, 273 95 13, www.cabinet-store.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Swiss as well as international brands of course. In the Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Zürich Duty Free Stores you can buy a varied range of
perfumes and cosmetics, tobacco products, spirits, wines
and chocolate creations from Lindt, Cailler or Toblerone.
The many restaurants and bars serving Swiss and
international specialties make the Airside Center complete.
So if you arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can
use the time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir -
or have a fine meal before you take off!QZurich Airport,
www.flughafen-zuerich.ch/shopping. Open 06:00 -
22:00. Accessible only to passengers.

DEPARTMENT STORES
JELMOLI
They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what
they are indeed: Hugo, DKNY, Karl Lagerfeld, Diesel, Tommy
Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you
can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes,
household goods, a huge sports and an electronics
department. And not to forget the Jelmoli Food Market
grocery store in the basement.QF‑12, Seidengasse 1,
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch.
Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
MANOR
Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of
department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in
young and casual fashion and sells its own brands as
well as brands of renown - they have something for
everyone’s needs. Besides that, there are departments for
beauty, sports, household and home electronics.QF‑12,
Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 229
56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion for urban cowboys and others at DeeCee Style. PD
DEECEE STYLE
Leather jackets, denim jeans, travel bags and handmade
shoes by international brands and much more - that’s what
you’ll find at DeeCee Style. A shop for urban cowboys and
fashion-conscious bankers alike. There is a girl’s section too.
QF‑13, Talacker 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 497 35
85, www.deeceestyle.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00
- 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
FIDELIO WOMEN
If you’re looking for casual, but still stylish fashion for women,
try Fidelio. They sell renowned labels like Acne Studios, Iro,
Myths, Thom Krom and their very own label fidelio.QF‑12,
Münzplatz 1, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 13 11,
www.fideliokleider.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 -
18:00, closed Sun.

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44 Zurich In Your Pocket

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 Shopping
GANT
Located on Rennweg, just off Bahnhofstrasse, this is the
new flagship store for  GANT  in Zurich. Founded in 1949
in the US  GANT stands for casual, yet chic fashion for
both men and women. With shirts, colourful pants, casual
business suits, blouses, blazers or shoes, this shop features
all of the latest GANT collections spread out over more than
300m2 on two floors. Other GANT shops can be found on
Europaallee (Lagerstrasse 10) and at the Sihlcity shopping
centre (Kalandeplatz 1).QF‑12, Rennweg 30,
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 96 66, www.global.gant.
com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
The men’s section at the new Gant store. PD
MARC O’POLO
Well, they specialise in casual, but it’s casual with style, shoes and accessories like belts, scarfs and wallets.QG‑13,
we’d say. You ‘ll also find the accessories and shoes of Limmatquai 58, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 43 243 71 44,
this company with Swedish roots. The Zurich store of www.strellson.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue 10:00
the Marc O’Polo fashion brand features all their latest - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
collections for men, women and kids - be it shorts, blouses,
jackets or coats and more.QF‑11, Lintheschergasse TOOCHÉ
10, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 43 497 21 35, This is the boutique of Zurich-based designer Genevieve
www.marc-o-polo.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. Monnet. Inspired by international fashion shows, she
focuses on dresses, jackets and other women’s apparel
STRELLSON STORE produced in small numbers in Italy, which are usually made
This is the flagship store of Strellson, a Swiss label for men’s of high-quality Italian fabrics. Surprisingly, all are quite
fashion. On 220sqm on two storeys right on Limmatquai affordable as no dress costs more than 300Sfr.QG‑13,
you can find all its latest collections, be it the smart Strehlgasse 3, 8Patadeplatz / Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 221
business suits, shirts, jackets and coats or their more casual 97 97, www.tooche.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 -
jeans, sweaters and leather jackets. They also produce 20:00, Fri 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

GANT STORE RENNWEG ZÜRICH

GANT.COM

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 45

 Shopping
The mo st l uxur i o us f ra gra n c e s
and skincare in the wor ld
SI N CE 1 9 2 1
BAHNHOFSTRASSE 17 | 8001 ZÜRICH | TEL.044 211 2030 | OSSWALD.CH
Time to take up sport again
Bahnhofstrasse 56 and
Limmatquai 78 in Zurich.
www.ochsport.ch
OCH_60x45_Anz_ZH_Pocket_e.indd 1
Marktgasse 3-5
8001 Zürich
Switzerland
46 Zurich In Your Pocket
05.07.16 15:33
BurtonStoreZuerich
burtonstorezuerich
www.burton.com
SHOPPING MALLS
IM VIADUKT
More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries nestled
under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the 19th
century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with one
shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy
fashion labels, studios and concept stores rather than the
big luxury brands. In the market hall, more than 30 vendors
offer their goods, like fresh food and cured meats.QD‑8,
Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg, www.im-viadukt.ch.
Closed Sun.
SIHLCITY
A true shopper‘s paradise, opened in 2007 on the grounds
of an industrial-age paper mill. Modern architecture
carefully blends with the factory buildings which house
more than 80 shops from fashion to electronics, restaurants,
a hotel, a spa and a multiplex cinema. Easily accessible from
the city centre by tram N°13 & 17 in direction Albisgütli
or N°5 in direction Laubegg - or take the S4 train, exit at
Saalsporthalle.QC‑16, Kalanderplatz 1, 8Sihlcity Nord,
tel. (+41) 44 204 99 99, www.sihlcity.ch. Open 09:00 -
20:00. Closed Sun, Coop grocery store open until 21:00.
Everything for sports on three stories: Och Sport. PD
OUTDOOR CLOTHING
& SPORTS
BURTON STORE ZÜRICH
This
is Zurich’s flagship store for the American
snowboard and clothing  manufacturer Burton.
Founded in 1977 by snowboarding pioneer Jake Burton
Carpenter, it has become one of the biggest and best
known brands for winter sporting goods. In addition
to snowboard apparel, accessories and protective gear,
Burton also offers outerwear, jackets and sweaters, bags
and luggage, camping equipment such as tents and
sleeping bags and much more, so you don’t have to
be a hardcore mountain junky to find something here.
QG‑12, Marktgasse 3/5, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44
578 09 46, www.burton.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
zurich.inyourpocket.com

TOY STORES
FRANZ CARL WEBER
This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre
conveniently located right next to the main station.
There’s virtually anything you might desire on four
huge floors from first toys for newborns to tech toys
for grown-ups, not to mention books and toys from
Switzerland. Your kids will absolutely love the slide that
connects the first level with the ground floor.QF‑12,
Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/HB, tel. (+41) 44
225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
OCH SPORT
At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any
kind of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton,
trekking, running, skiing, swimming and much
more - they have it all. On top of this huge choice,
there is also fashion and outerwear - but sports
definitely comes first here. Sister shop at Limmatquai
78.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel.
(+41) 44 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00
- 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. Nov - Jan open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00,
Sun closed.
THE NORTH FACE STORE
The Zurich flagship store of the American outdoor
company The North Face naturally features everything
the brand has become famous for: outerwear, fleeces,
shirts and footwear as well as equipment such as
backpacks, tents and sleeping bags. It all definitely
suits hikers and mountaineers but is also very chic
for your hike through the urban jungle.QE‑12,
Sihlstrasse 95, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 210 07 17,
www.thenorthface.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
The address for perfumes and beauty products: Osswald. PD
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Shopping
Toy Store
Welcome to the most famous
paradise of toys for children,
since 1881.
Bahnhofplatz 9 8001 Zürich
044 225 78 78 www.fcw.ch
PERFUMES & BEAUTY
OSSWALD
Osswald is the specialist for perfumes and beauty products
for facial care and spa treatments on Bahnhofstrasse.
This  family-run business was founded in 1921 and still
offers  excellent consulting services and beauty aids.
Facial care products include Swiss brands like La Prairie,
Cell Cosmet and Valmont, among many others, and
the  fragrances available are nearly endless including
many niche brands from around the globe like Profumum
Roma, Roja  and  Thameen. In their facial spa, they also
offer medical and cosmetic facial treatments, but you’ll
also find  make-up, hair products, home fragrances
and even accessories  for your bathroom here.QF‑13,
Bahnhofstrasse 17, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211
20 30, www.osswald.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00
- 16:00, closed Sun.
SHOES, BEACHWEAR
& ACCESSORIES
JIMMY CHOO
Jimmy Choo is the playground for female shoe enthusiasts
on Bahnhofstrasse: court shoes, boots, and rubber wellies
- it’s all the rage. Of course this kind of foot wear has its
price, but as a shoe lover that probably won’t be your first
concern.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 26, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
(+41) 44 210 38 00, www.jimmychoo.com. Open 10:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
October – November 2018 47
 Shopping
OXBLOOD SHOES
This store is for male shoe aficionados. They mainly have
top-quality business shoes on offer, most of them made
of Shell Cordovan leather (from a particular part of a
horsehide only) for a special rich and glossy look. Only
exclusive shoemakers use this leather from the Chicago
leather company Horween: Ludwig Reiter, Cordwanier and
Allen Edmonds for example. Needless to say the shoes at
Oxblood don’t come cheap. But true quality has its price,
always.QE‑11, Europaallee 19, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel.
(+41) 44 240 51 51, www.oxbloodshoes.com. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun.
STEFI TALMAN
Swiss designer Stefi Talman built her reputation in the
1980ies with a half boot called Zip featuring a zipper
crossing the instep at an angle. Her collections of shoes and
bags for women are still remarkable and are on offer in her
own boutique in the upper part of the old town.QG‑13,
Oberdorfstrasse 13, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 252 81 10,
www.stefitalman.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 -
18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Ta-Bou: bikinis and swimsuits all year round. PD
TA-BOU
At Ta-Bou they sell bikinis the whole year round. And not
just any bikinis, but their very own collection! This family
business has been successfully designing and producing
bikinis and swimsuits for exactly 40 years! And you can buy
each top or bottom piece individually, so you can combine
them according to your taste - or size. In their shop it feels
like summer anytime of the year.QF‑12, Uraniastrasse 31,
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 221 08 11, www.ta-bou.com.
Open 10:00 - 18:30, closed Sun.
SWISS DESIGN
ERFOLG
This Swiss clothes label has been producing shirts and
knitted garments since 1993. Expect colourful, mostly
non-synthetic clothing, some with reduced, stylish
48 Zurich In Your Pocket
designs, all actually made in Switzerland. Erfolg means
success, and that’s what the label has become in recent
years. They have a second shop in the shopping street
Im Viadukt.QE‑12, Löwenstrasse 2, 8Sihlstrasse,
tel. (+41) 44 210 40 70, www.erfolg-label.ch.
Open 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Sun.
FREITAG
The Freitag brothers produce all kinds of bags made out
of old truck tarpaulins and used seat belts from cars.
They‘ve been at it since 1993 and with great success.
And because a tarpaulin can only be cut once, each
of the bags is unique. The flagship store is made of 17
old freight containers stacked up to make a tower, so
you can choose from hundreds of bags on four floors.
From the top of the tower you can spot the trucks on
the neighbouring ‘highway’-bridge across Zurich - and
be inspired just as the Freitag brothers were when
they had the same view from the window of their
living room in the early 90s.QB‑8, Geroldstrasse 17,
8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366 95 20, www.freitag.ch.
Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
SWISS FOOD
GLOBUS DELICATESSA
In the basement of the Globus department store you’ll
find almost any kind of food imaginable, be it organic
Swiss cheese, meat specialities from across the country or
perfectly ripe exotic fruit from around the world. It’s not
only Swiss produce, but we are almost certain you will
find every Swiss delicacy you might be looking for. Not
a cheap shop, but with an impressive diversity.QF‑11,
Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41)
58 578 11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
WELSCHLAND
At this small delicatessen you can find all the specialities
of the Romandie, the French speaking western part of
Switzerland, where people are said to be more relaxed than
around Zurich. Be it sausages (for example saucisses aux
choux with cabbage) many cheeses, wines or absinth - it’s
all there.QC‑12, Zweierstrasse 56, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon,
tel. (+41) 43 243 98 50, www.welschland.com. Open
07:00 - 21:00, closed Sun.
SWISS FABRICS
FABRIC FRONTLINE
Exquisite foulards, scarfs, ties and coats all made of
coloured, patterned silk, is what the Swiss family
business Fabric Frontline specialises in. You can find it
all in their store in the covered courtyard of the Credit
Suisse building at Paradeplatz.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse
25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 222 20 00,
www.fabricfrontline.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Shopping

beachwear for
every body.

www.ta-bou.com

Uraniastrasse 31
next to Jelmoli-Parking
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 49
 Shopping
BOUTIQUE CHRISTIAN FISCHBACHER
LUXURY SHOPPING For nearly 200 years this family-owned Swiss company has
produced fine fabrics for luxurious interiors. Drop by its
Zurich boutique to find everything from finest bed linen,
duvets, pillows and cushions to carpets, accessories and
bath textiles. All of the standard sizes are available here,
but the staff can also take custom orders. They’ll also be
happy to help you find the perfect interior fabrics to match
your personality and your home.QF‑13, Kappelergasse
11, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 211 57 47,
www.fischbacher.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun.

Pinko
Although there are dozens of reasons to visit Zurich,
one of the best is a chance to do some luxury shopping.
Whether you’re a dedicated fashionista or just enjoy
browsing, Zurich has all of the world’s most sought-
after brands. Many of the best labels can be found on
and around Bahnhofstrasse and Storchengasse, the
Swiss equivalent of New York’s Fifth Avenue.

DOLCE & GABBANNA

Dolce & Gabbana love flower prints, sumptuous
accessories and body-hugging designs. Explore its
latest luxury fashion collections for men, women and
kids.QF‑14, Bahnhofstrasse 10, 8Börsenstrasse,
tel. (+41) 43 497 35 04, www.dolcegabbana.com.
Quality Swiss linens, pillows and more at Christian Fischbacher. PD
PINKO
PINKO is an Italian fashion brand founded in the
early 1980s. With its daring, even cheeky feminine SOUVENIRS
collections it attracts strong personalities regardless of DOLMETSCH
age. Its all new Zurich store  is located on Strehlgasse 9, They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the
right around Storchengasse.QG‑13, Strehlgasse 9, tel. Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands
(+41) 44 577 57 98, www.pinko.com. Open 09:30 - as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-Shirts and
18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. outdoor fashion. Free engraving service on Victorinox
knives for customers directly in the shop. Sister shop
TROIS POMMES - THE STORE WOMEN Swiss Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground at the main
The Trois Pommes is the epitome of a concept store for railway station.QG‑11, Limmatquai 126, 8Central,
women and probably one of the most luxurious ones in tel. (+41) 44 251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. Open
Zurich. Only fashion, shoes and accessories of the most 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
exquisite brands make it to this store. They are presented
in an equally luxurious interior. The Trois Pommes empire
encompasses more shops, several on nearby Storchengasse,
for example Trois Pommes Donna (Emilio Pucci, Lanvin).
QG‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 18, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44
211 09 43, www.troispommes.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30,
Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Sun closed.

VALENTINO
One of the world’s most sought-after fashion labels
offers the latest women’s collections including shoes,
purses and fashionable eyewear at this boutique.
QG‑13, Storchengasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41)
44 216 80 20, www.valentino.com. Open 09:30 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.

50 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com


TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP
At Teddy’s they have a wide
range of souvenirs and
gifts. Whether it’s watches,
cowbells, hats, music boxes,
soft toys, pocket knives or
clothes you’re after: you’ll
find it all at their shop on
Limmatquai, just next to the
church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of
Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but
from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte,
a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days
of yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on
Sundays.QG‑13, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel.
(+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch.
Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 -
17:00, Nov - March Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
EDELWEISS SHOP
At the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of
souvenirs and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss
crosses of course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and
much more. The shop is situated at the exit of the big
hall of the main railway station towards Bahnhofstrasse.
They feature brands like Swiss Military and Alpine Club.
QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43
497 23 80, www.edelweiss-shops.ch. Open 08:00 -
21:30, incl. Sun.
Shopping
SWISS SHOP 1291
This shop offers classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as
the Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands
as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-shirts and
outdoor fashion. Sister shop Dolmetsch at Limmatquai
126 in the Niederdorf.QF‑11, ShopVille, entrance
Bahnhofstrasse, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 211 61
32, www.swiss-shop-1291.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
VICTORINOX FLAGSHIP STORE
This is the Zurich flagship store by Victorinox, the Swiss
family business of world renown. They may be best
known for their Swiss army knives, but they also produce
other high-quality items like cutlery, watches, travel gear
and fashion - which is all in stock at this store of course.
At the Knife Assembly Station you can even make
your own unique Swiss army knife by choosing size,
functions and colours. A special souvenir or gift!QF‑12,
Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 229 60 70,
www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 -
18:30. Closed Sun.
ZÜRICHFOTO.CH
Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich
beyond army knives and cow bells: authentic black and
white pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town, the lake.
QG‑13, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 251
21 45, www.zuerichfoto.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

MENG CUTLERY
Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss
souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brand
Victorinox. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and
more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse
4 (E-4).QF‑12, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44
211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

MESSER-SCHARF
Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and
messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an
extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox,
such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. messer-
scharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma.
QG‑13, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44
251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Luxury Bedding
Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK
Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion
accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots
of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Kappelergasse 11
Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QG‑12, Uraniastrasse 8001 Zürich
1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 222 19 55,
+41 44 211 57 47
www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
18:00. Closed Sun. WWW.FISCHBACHER.COM

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 51

 Watches & Jewellery
Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another
cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95%
of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in
Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva
around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France.
Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today.
Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you
will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The
next couple of pages will guide you!
BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY
For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and
repairing watches. The family business is now managed
by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some
of the world’s most sought-after brands as well as its own
Beyer brand.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. (+41) 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30
- 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY
With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in
Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer,
Certina, and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as
many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department
store Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, F-12), ShopVille at the main
train station and the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz
1, C-16).QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse,
tel. (+41) 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
Strehlgasse 27 | 8001 Zürich | gellnerandfriends.ch
52 Zurich In Your Pocket
AZ_Gellner_NOMOS_Zuerichinyourpocket_60x90.indd 1 30.08.18 12:00
TAX FREE SHOPPING
As a foreign resident you are entitled
to a refund when making purchases
for more than 300Sfr (including VAT),
provided the goods leave the country
within 30 days. You will get back the
VAT, which in Switzerland is only
7.7% - minus a handling fee. It’s as
easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free
sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When
leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts
and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp
your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund,
present your stamped tax refund form at a Global
Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around
Europe). For more infos see www​.global-blue​.com.
BUCHERER
Jewellery and Swiss watch boutique established in 1888. Top
brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their
own brand Carl F. Bucherer.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 50,
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 26 35, www.bucherer.com.
Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
GELLNER & FRIENDS
This is jewellery manufacturer Gellner’s flagship store in
Switzerland and here it’s all about cultured pearls. The
collection includes elegant earrings, bracelets, necklaces
and daring rings, all designed and handmade at the factory.
Apart from Gellner’s very own pieces, the shop also sells
jewellery by Danish designer Ole Lynggaard, Dutch brand
Minitials and renowned watches by Nomos Glashütte.
QF‑12, Strehlgasse 27, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 552
24 03, www.gellnerandfriends.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
GÜBELIN
Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery,
watches and precious stones. You will find their own
jewellery lines as well as many renowned watch brands
such as IWC Schaffhausen, Zenith, Hublot, Baume &
Mercier and Jaeger-LeCoultre.QF‑13, Bahnhofstrasse
36, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 387 52 20,
www.guebelin.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30.
Closed Sun.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUE
Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has
its very own Zurich boutique. Find their iconic automatic
watches, be it the Pilot’s series or the Aquatimer  watch
family and exclusive models only available in its
flagship stores. All presented in a hyper designed
shop which includes a relaxing lounge area.QF‑12,
Bahnhofstrasse 61, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 00
55, www.iwc.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Watches & Jewellery
KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES
Kurz have a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Chopard and
from their own workshops, as well as a broad range of mainly www.christ-swiss.ch
Swiss watch brands like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot,
and Rado.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/
HB, tel. (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch.
Open 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
WELCOME TO
SWITZERLAND’S
LES AMBASSADEURS
Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery FIRST DESTINATION
FOR WATCHES
at Les Ambassadeurs store. They have long established
partnerships with leading brands such as Audemars Piguet,
Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz,
Longines, Vacheron Constantin, Omega as well as Pasquale
AND JEWELRY
Bruni and Pomellato. Their sales staff provide expert advice in
many languages.QF‑12, Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, with a selection
tel. (+41) 44 227 17 17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open of more than
09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 50 exclusive brands.
SWAROVSKI
Swarovski is not just crystals - but if you’re an
aficionado you won’t need telling that. Their Zurich
location offers jewellery, watches, fashion accessories
and objects for the home.QF‑11, Bahnhofplatz
7, 8Bahnhofplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 10 20,
www.swarovski.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, closed Sun.

Watches, jewellery and sleek ambience at Christ. PD

TISSOT BOUTIQUE
The traditional Swiss watchmaker Tissot has its very own
boutique on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. Find all their latest
watches for men and women in their modern salesrooms.
QF‑11, Bahnhofstrasse 94, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. I N T E R L A K E N | LU C E R N E | ZU R I C H | G E N E VA
(+41) 44 222 18 53, www.tissotwatches.com. Open L AU S A N N E | M O N T R EU X | LU GA N O
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

VAINARD
Vainard creates classic diamond jewellery as well as a more
daring designer’s collection - inspired by Art deco and
modernity with strong black and white contrasts, be it rings,
earrings, bracelets or bangles.QG‑13, Schlüsselgasse 4,
8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 210 04 44, www.vainard.com
Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 53

 Watches

Christian Uhren Schmuck, Limmatplatz 1

Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40

IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61

Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 140
Cartier Joailliers, Pelikanstrasse 6

Gellner & Friends, Strehlgasse 27

Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1

Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45

Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82

Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126

Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50

La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25
Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1

Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31

Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36
Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25

Heinicke, Limmatquai 32
Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78
Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31

Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80
Galli, Theaterstrasse 16
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
A. Lange & Söhne •
Audemars Piguet
Balmain •
Baume & Mercier • • • • •
Bell & Ross
Beyer •
Blancpain
Breguet • •
Breitling • • •
Bulgari •
Cartier • • •
Certina • • • • •
Charriol •
Chopard • • • •
Corum •
De Grisogono •
Ebel • • •
Eterna •
Franck Muller
Girard Perregaux •
Hublot • •
IWC Schaffhausen • • • • • •
Jaquet Droz •
Jaeger-LeCoultre • • •
Jowissa • •
Longines • • • • • •
Louis Erard • • • • • •
Maurice Lacroix • • • •
Mido • • • • •
Mondaine • • • • •
Movado • • •
Nomos Glashütte • •
Omega • •
Oris • •
Parmigiani Fleurier •
Patek Philippe • •
Piaget •
Quinting •
Rado • • • • • • •
Raymond Weil • •
Rolex • •
Swatch • •
Swiss Military • • • • • • •
TAG Heuer • • • • •
Tiffany
Tissot • • • • • • • • •
Ulysse Nardin •
Urwerk
Victorinox Swiss Army • • •
Vulcain •
Wenger
Zenith • •
Zurich Partime • • •
54 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Watches

Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31

Victorinox Flagship Store, Rennweg 58

Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64

Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48

Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94

Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17
messer-scharf, Oberdorfstrasse 25
Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33

Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52

Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14

Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5
Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4

Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31

ZÜRICH BAHNHOFSTRASSE 64 +41 44 227 17 17

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facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 55
 Zurich for kids
SHOPS
Franz Carl Weber
FRANZ CARL WEBER
This is the toy shop to visit in the city centre
conveniently located right next to the main station. See
also p. 47.QF‑12, Bahnhofplatz 9, 8Bahnhofplatz/
HB, tel. (+41) 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
ALKENA
The small shop near Bellevue has a good selection of
high-quality, cheerful children’s clothes made of organic
textiles. The brand Alkena specialises in organic silk
which is produced in its own silk farm in China. They also
sell women’s clothes, so mum might find something she
likes too.QH‑14, Stadelhoferstrasse 33, 8Bellevue,
tel. (+41) 44 261 66 00, www.alkena.com.
Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun, Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 -
18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how
to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals
may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty
to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on
www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
LEISURE, PARKS & SPORTS
Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention
swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next
to Lindenhof (p. 36, E-3) and there is a large one next to the
Chinese garden. The GZ community centres of the city also
have good playgrounds (www.gz-zh.ch).
CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE
You and your kids can get to know how chocolate is made
in a playful way at the visitor centre of Chocolat Frey,
Switzerland’s biggest chocolate producer. On the expert
trail some of Frey’s chocolate makers will explain and
demonstrate the production of those sweet delicacies.
And yes, you and your kids will be able to taste some, be
they pieces straight from the production line or from the
two chocolate fountains. You can watch Röbi the Robot
56 Zurich In Your Pocket
pack chocolates or dress up as a cocoa bean and make
funny photos to surprise your friends with. You can also
identify different smells in the Aroma Lab or play a giant
computer game. Afterwards you can fortify yourself up in
the café and, of course, buy all of the Frey delicacies at the
shop. This pleasant day trip, which isn’t just for chocolate
connoisseurs, is reachable in only 39 minutes from Zurich
(take the train to Aarau, then  bus Nº1 to the Industrie
stop in Buchs).QBresteneggstrasse 4, Buchs, tel. (+41)
62 836 24 25, www.chocolatfrey.ch/en/visitor-centre.
Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 12/10/6Sfr,
family ticket incl. up to 5 kids (6-16 years) 30/18Sfr. Free
admission to the café with a playground and shop.
KINDERCITY
Kindercity is a science city for children aged 3 to 12, much
more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last
do bungee-jumping in a museum? Different so-called
knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human
body, renewable energy or modern communication, using
sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover,
accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play areas,
magic trains and a car driving school on the roof for under-
aged drivers - and much more. From Zurich, take trains S9
or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at Schwerzenbach
to the bus in direction of Volketswil, get off at Volkiland,
Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes).QChlirietstrasse 12,
Volketswil, tel. (+41) 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge
lanes) 31.50Sfr, activities can also be booked separately
e.g. knowledge lane 16.50Sfr (22.50 adults).
Dressing up as a cocoa bean sure looks like fun. PD
SWIMMING BATHS OERLIKON (HALLENBAD)
Zurich’s biggest indoor swimming baths and the best
with children. There’s a 25-metre pool for non-swimmers,
a children’s pool with water toys, a 50-metre pool for
good swimmers and a diving pool. Get there on tram
N°11 (plus a good 5 minutes walk) or buses N°63 or N°94.
QJ‑1, Wallisellenstrasse 100, 8Messe/Hallenstadion,
tel. (+41) 44 315 67 77, www.sportamt.ch/schwimmen.
Open 06:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 20:00.
Admission 8/6/4Sfr, under 6 years free.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
 Zurich for kids
MUSEUMS & ZOOS
If you’re looking for places to learn and discover stuff, try
these suggestions.
Zurich Zoo, the classic destination: the Masoala Rainforest
is warm even on a chilly day. See p. 58.Qwww.zoo.ch
Zoological museum, (stuffed) animals you can touch, and
examine and much more. Qwww.zm.uzh.ch
Nonam, the history of North American Natives is displayed
for children, activities too. See p. 39. Qwww.nonam.ch

MÜHLERAMA
Everything you ever wanted to know about your daily
bread. This former-mill-become-museum has a whole
lot to say about growing wheat, milling flour and baking
bread. The industrial mill is still functional and is put into
action  every day at 15:00 by a miller on site. With lots of
hands-on exhibits, this is a good place to go with children
(age 5+) and explanations are available in English. There
are baking lessons every last Saturday of the month and
each Wednesday evening you can bake your own bread
(bring your dough or buy ingredients in the museum shop).
In the shop you can buy different kinds of flour, books,
snacks  and more. Take tram N°2 or 4 in the direction of
Tiefenbrunnen.QSeefeldstrasse 231, 8Tiefenbrunnen,
tel. (+41) 44 422 76 60, www.muehlerama.ch. Open
14:00 - 18:00, Wed 14:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00,
closed Mon. Admission 15/9Sfr.
This mini-mill at Mühlerama definitely needs to be checked out!
 Martin Stollenwerk
CAFÉS
KAFI FÜR DICH
This café next to the park Bäckeranlage has a children’s
corner where your young ones can paint the walls with chalk
or play with one of the many toys while you sit and have a
coffee or a drink. On weekends the place is so popular with
parents you have to weave your way through the many
push chairs standing around. Well worth a visit even without
your kids.QC-11, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Helvetia-
platz, tel. (+41) 43 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

SWEET CHOCOLATE MOMENTS

CHOCOLAT FREY VISITOR CENTRE

The Chocolat Frey visitor centre just 39 minutes

from Zurich central station by public transport

Free entry to the Café Frey with its chocolate

factory playground and to the Boutique Frey
Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre
Bresteneggstrasse 4 | CH-5033 Buchs bei Aarau
Tel. 0041 (0) 62 836 24 25, besucherzentrum@chocolatfrey.ch
www.chocolatfrey.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 57

 Leisure
There are plenty of things to do in and around Zurich.
Show your friends and colleagues who’s boss with a
competitive game of laser tag or show off your smarts in an
escape room. If, on the other hand, you just want to warm
up, then visit a thermal bath or a hammam.
Laser Arena: there’s nothing more fun than a laser gun. PD
SPORTS
SKATING RINK DOLDER (KUNSTEISBAHN)
Surrounded by woods above Zurich, the Dolder skating
rink is a great little winter getaway. If there is snow, it
looks like a winter fairytale up here. Take tram N°3, 8 or 15
to Römerhof and then hop on the little red Dolderbahn,
a cogwheel railway, up to the last station (6 minutes).
There’s a self-service restaurant on site.QAdlisbergstrasse
36, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 267 70 80,
www.doldereisbahn.ch. Open from October 5, 2018 -
March 10, 2019, daily 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 17:45.
Wed ice rink closed from 17:30 - 19:15. Admission
8/6/4Sfr, families 40Sfr. (incl. skates), ice skate rental 8Sfr.
ANIMAL PARKS
WILDNISPARK ZÜRICH
Zurich Wildlife Park features two different attractions at
two different locations not very far from one another.
At Langenberg  you’ll find  wild animals like  bears, deer,
European bison, otters, beavers, wild boar and many more
creatures (in enclosures). All of them are indigenous to
Switzerland and can be watched here almost as if they
were still in the wild. The other attraction is  Sihlwald, a
protected  forest which has largely been left to its own
devices, so animals and little adventurers feel very much
at home here. It’s accessible from Sihlwald, where you’ll
also find a visitor centre (closed Nov - Feb), which offers
suggestions on where to hike in  this wilderness area.Get
there from Zurich’s main train station with the S4 train (SZU).
For Langenberg (enclosures) exit at Wildpark-Höfli. From
there it’s a 30-minute walk. For Sihlwald (forest and visitor
centre) leave the train at Sihlwald.QAlte Sihltalstrasse 38,
Sihlwald, tel. (+41) 44 722 55 22, www.wildnispark.ch.
Restaurant and visitor centre in the park open March
- October. The forest and most of the enclosures are
accessible year round.
58 Zurich In Your Pocket
ZURICH ZOO
Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The
pride of this zoological garden, which was opened in 1929,
is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem
in the Masoala National Park in Madagascar across some
10,000m2. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can
move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk
by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled,
a chameleon might be sitting on a branch right next to
you. But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing.
Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the
traditional-style enclosures into whole ecosystems which
better meet the animals’ needs. An Indian dry forest for
the lions, a Eurasian wetland, Himalayan mountains (snow
leopards, wolves, a Siberian tiger) and African mountains
(gelada monkeys, Nubian ibex) have already been opened,
the latest being the all-new 11,000m2 elephant park.
QL‑10, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 848
96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Nov - Feb
open 09:00 - 17:00. Masoala hall opens all year at 10:00.
Admission 26/21(16 - 20 years)/13Sfr, free for kids up
to 5 years.
FUN & GAMES
LASER ARENA & PAINTBALL
Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles on
different floors and tag as many of your opponents with
your laser gun as possible to score points. But watch out,
or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth
mentioning that unlike paintball, this is a completely
harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you
need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play.
The Laser Arena is a big space that can accommodate
up to 24 players and you can play with two big teams
or split up into smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes
and the person or team with the highest score wins.
Make a reservation on its website or just drop by
to have some great laser fun with friends, family or
colleagues. They also run a paintball arena a 40-minutes
drive from Zurich (www.paintball-arena.ch).QD‑15,
Brandschenkestrasse 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel.
(+41) 848 31 23 12, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed
14:00 - 22:00, Thu 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat
10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One
12-minute game costs 15Sfr for adults and 12Sfr for
children under 16 years. Book more than two games
and get a discount.
ZURICHESCAPE
Escape games seem to be popping up all over the place.
The basic idea is simple. You and your team are locked
in a room and have 60 minutes to reach the exit. You
achieve this by solving puzzles, finding hidden objects
and working together as a team. At ZurichEscape you can
choose between three different rooms, each with its own
theme. In addition to this, it also offers both indoor and
outdoor escape missions. For these you’ll have to leave
the premises to solve the riddles and accomplish the
zurich.inyourpocket.com

task. Games are meant for two to six players. No German
is needed as solutions are primarily found using symbols
and numbers and the rules are explained in English
beforehand. Book a time slot on its website.QD‑11,
Zeughausstrasse 51, 8Sihlpost/Hauptbahnhof, tel.
(+41) 43 317 19 19, www.zurichescape.ch. First game
starts daily 10:00, last one at 20:00. Book slots on its
website. Prices start at 90Sfr and depend on the room,
the time and the size of the group.
A hammam is the ideal way to recharge your batteries, especially
at Stadtbad. PD
THERMAL BATHS & CO
STADTBAD HAMMAM & SPA
Turkish-style steam baths, hammams, have become
very popular in recent years. This one in the cellars of the
Volkshaus boasts some arty concrete architecture. But you
come here to relax, right? In keeping with oriental traditions
there is a hot stone in the centre of the open space to relax
on - niches to wash and rub your skin, a sauna, a footbath,
and more are grouped around it. There is also a relax
area and a café. A variety of massages and treatments is
available.QD‑11, Stauffacherstr. 60, 8Helvetiaplatz,
tel. (+41) 44 241 04 27, www.stadtbadzuerich.ch. Open
11:00 -23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 -22:00, Wed
women only. Sat 10:00 - 14:00 for kids. Admission
hammam 48Sfr, sauna 32Sfr.
paintball-arena.ch
OBERER ZÜRICHSEE | ZÜRICH CITY | LUZERN | BASEL | BERN
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Leisure
BILLIARDS & BOWLING
BILLIARDINO
Didn’t you want to remind your friends who is king of
billiards? With 46 pool and 7 snooker tables, darts and
videogames Billiardino is an entertainment Eldorado
in the middle of the nightlife district Zurich West.
Besides the sports there is a bar with pizza and pasta to
please your stomach. You’ll find Billiardino behind the
Abaton multiplex cinema.QC‑8, Heinrichstrasse 245,
8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. (+41) 43 960 33 33, www.
billiardino.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00,
Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 25/28Sfr per hr.
BOWLING WEST
Bowling West is located in Schlieren, just three stops
with the S-train from Zurich’s main train station (S12
or S3 direction Baden/Brugg or Aarau). In Schlieren
cross to the northern side of the tracks and walk five
minutes back in the direction where the train came
from. This bowling centre has 17 lanes and a bar to relax
after some gruelling competition. There is billiards,
table football and darts as well. Booking by phone
recommended.QIfangstrasse 8, Schlieren, tel. (+41)
44 731 02 06, www.bowling-west.ch. Open 14:00 -
23:00, Fri & Sat 14:00 - 01:30, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. June
- Aug 17:00 - 23:00, Wed 14:00 - 23:00, Fri 17:00 -
01:00, Sat 14:00- 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00, Tue closed.
38 - 47Sfr per hour and lane.
THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH
Zurich’s only thermal bath is located in the buildings that
once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge
using the spring water that was once sold for drinking as
Aqui. There are different pools, some of them in the old
stone cellars as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop
open all year, with a view over the city and towards the
Alps. Besides whirlpools, massage jets and resting zones
there is a Irish-Roman Spa area with ten different stations
like a peeling niche or herbal steam for complete relaxation
(extra fee applies).QC‑15, Brandschenkestrasse
150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 205 96 50,
www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission 36/18Sfr, children up to 6 years free.
laser-arena.ch
October – November 2018 59
 Day trips
If you have some more time on your hands you might
want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for
a day. Many scenic destinations also offer cultural sites.
We’ve put together a selection of our favourites. And there
are plenty of other options to consider such as museums
and monasteries. For more recommendations check
www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
CULTURE & HERITAGE
ENEA TREE MUSEUM (BAUMMUSEUM)
The world’s first and only tree museum is located on
Lake Zurich, close to Rapperswil-Jona. A selection of
trees from the collection of Swiss landscape architect
and tree collector Enzo Enea are on display at the
75,000sqm park. By creating a series of open spaces
the architect has shown how trees can be used as
space creating objects while using their aesthetics and
paying respect to the absolutely vital function they
serve. Furthermore, the Enea tree collection uses only
trees from the Central European climate zone. With
this museum Enea thoroughly combined his vision
of merging architecture, landscapes, botany, art and
design. The museum boasts over 50 trees from more
than 25 species, some of which are over 100 years old,
and a further 100 trees and plants are located in the park
surrounding the tree museum. Since 2013, sculptures by
contemporary artists have been on display in the park,
creating a unique choreography of art work and trees.
A beautiful and definitely rather special experience.
QBuechstrasse 12, Jona, tel. (+41) 55 225 55 55,
www.enea.ch/baummuseum. Open 09:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Nov - Feb open 09:00
- 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. Admission
15/12Sfr. To get there from Zurich take a train to
Rapperswil, than bus 622 to St. Dionys or Bus 621 to
Buechstrasse West (48 minutes all in all).
PUMPKIN EXHIBITION
(JUCKERHOF SEEGRÄBEN)
They really take pumpkins seriously at Juckerhof!
There are dozens of huge sculptures – yes, made of
pumpkins – and then there are several hundred (!)
varieties of pumpkins to admire, some of them for sale,
if you like. Of course there is a restaurant which serves
all kinds of pumpkin dishes. You and your kids can also
carve pumpkins, tools are provided. An impressive
and slightly quirky destination which children love.
A little walk takes you to pretty lake Pfäffikon just
next to the farm.QDorfstrasse 23, Seegräben, tel.
(+41) 44 934 34 84, www.juckerfarm.ch. Pumpkin
exhibition 2018 open daily until November 4.
Until October restaurant and shop open until
22:00, in Nov until 18:00. To get there, take the S14
train in direction of Hinwil, get off at Aathal. From
there it’s a 20 minute walk. On busy days (weekend
with sunny weather mostly) there is a shuttle bus to
the farm (5Sfr).
60 Zurich In Your Pocket
MUSEUMS & ART
FONDATION BEYELER
The Fondation Beyeler near Basel is well worth a visit, not
just if you’re a lover of classic modernism. This art museum
shows the collection of late art dealers Ernst Beyeler and
Hilda Kunz. Many of the 200 works by Claude Monet, Paul
Cézanne, Vincent van Gogh, Mark Rothko, Andy Warhol
and many others are permanently on show. They have
temporary exhibitions that usually draw a lot of attention
and quite a crowd. Currently a retrospective of Balthus
(1908 - 2001) is on show. The museum is embedded in
the Berowerpark in Basel’s suburb Riehen. To get there take
a train to Basel, from there a tram takes you to the stop
Riehen, Fondation Beyeler.QBaselstrasse 101, Riehen,
tel. (+41) 61 645 97 00, www.fondationbeyeler.ch. Open
daily 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 25Sfr.
In 2018 under 25-years old are free.
Only in autumn: the quirky pumpkin exhibition at Jucker Farm. PD
SWISS MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT
(VERKEHRSHAUS)
The Swiss Museum of Transport (Verkehrshaus) is the
most popular museum in Switzerland. It tells the story
of the development of transport and mobility by road,
rail and water as well as in the air and outer space - and
how it affects everyday life. More than 3,000 objects like
planes, steam engines and cars are on display on more than
20,000sqm. In the Swissarena you can walk around on an
aerial photograph of Switzerland with a scale of 1:20,000
- or be a TV presenter for a couple of minutes in the Media
World and take home a recording of your performance. This
museum is very much hands-on, not just things to look at.
And in every section there are special activities for children
- a good choice for the family not just on a rainy day! To
get there from Zurich, take a train to Luzern (55 minutes)
and then bus N°6, 8 or 24 in direction Verkehrshaus (10
minutes).QLidostrasse 5, Luzern, tel. (+41) 41 370 44 44,
www.verkehrshaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, (in winter
10:00 - 17:00). Admission 32/22/12Sfr. Planetarium,
chocolate adventure and filmtheatre not included.
zurich.inyourpocket.com

The Fondation Beyeler, home of the Beyeler art collection. PD
OUTDOOR DESTINATIONS
HÖRNLI - HIKING AND DOWNHILL SCOOTERS
At a height of 1133 metres a.s.l. the Hörnli is the highest
mountain in the canton of Zurich. It’s perfect for a short
hike through forests and grassland and an easy peak even
if you are not much into mountains. Up on the Hörnli you
have a view over the hills of Zürich and towards the eastern
Alps. Take for example a train to Steg and hike to the top
in around 1.5 h. On the peak there is a restaurant where
you can rent a kick scooter to ride downhill back to the
train station (20/15Sfr).QHörnli, Steg, tel. (+41) 55 245
12 02, www.berggasthaus-hoernli.ch. Open daily 09:00
- 18:00. To get to Steg, take the S15 train to Rüti, there
change to the S26 (destination Winterthur). Duration: 51
minutes. Call to prebook scooters.
MOUNT RIGI
Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for
spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The
majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug
and Lake Lauerz. Don’t forget to bring a jacket as it can
be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. There are two
cogwheel railways going up the Rigi from two different
sides, one starting in Arth-Goldau, the other one in
Vitznau. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau
is Europe’s first mountain railway. At the top there are
several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking trails
and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have the
option of walking down just part of the way, as the train
has several stops where you can jump back on. The fastest
way from Zurich is to take a train to Arth-Goldau (duration
40 minutes) from where the cogwheel train takes
you to the top in another 40 minutes.QRigi Bahnen
AG, Vitznau, tel. (+41) 41 399 87 87, www.rigi.ch.
From Vitznau roughly from 09:00 - 22:00. From Weggis
daily from 08:00 - 19:00. From Arth-Goldau from 08:00
- 18:00 (16:00 in winter). Check website for exact
timetables. Return ticket to Rigi (so called daypass)
72/36Sfr.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Day trips
MOUNTAIN TOURS
BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS
Day trips organised by tour
operators are an easy way to
explore Switzerland and its
gorgeous mountains. Forget
the hassle with timetables,
itineraries and the like. Just
snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide
you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for
example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi,
Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the
rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres
asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier
await you. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just
check their website for available tours and book up
to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses
leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just
next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station, F-10).
Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50.
TITLIS - ENGELBERG
A rotating gondola takes you from the village of
Engelberg  up to Titlis at more than 3,000m  above sea
level. There you have spectacular views of the glacier
and  dozens of mountains, which completely surround
you here. Best of all, there are all kinds of snow and ice
activities that await you here including snow tubing (whiz
down the piste on a rubber tyre), a cliff walk and ice that’s
up to 5,000 years old in the ice cave. A number of different
restaurants are also available and after you’ve filled your
belly you can walk it off with many ambitious hiking
options or a leisurely stroll around Lake Trübsee. Activities
include scooter  and mountain bike rental, just to name
a few.QGerschnistrasse 12, Engelberg, tel. (+41) 41
639 50 50, www.titlis.ch. First ascent 08:30, last ascent
16:00. Runs all year. Closed for maintenance November
5 - 16, 2018.
A journey with a rotating gondola up to the eternal snow and ice
on Mount Titlis. PD
October – November 2018 61
 Queer Zurich
Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian
capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better
proof than the re-election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as
mayor in spring 2018 (in office since 2009)? Zurich’s vibrant
queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating
today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues
are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero.
Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all
in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher
Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride
Festival (www.zurichpridefestival.ch) today, this is a huge
event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful parade
through the city. In spring, the Pink Apple film festival
(April 30 - May 9, 2019, www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and
lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to
one young director. But the queer scene is also very lively,
big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly
bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a
more raunchy variety, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the
websites we list or just ask around in some of the bars.
The Zurich Pride festival is an extravaganza. Zurich Tourism
CAFÉS & BARS
DANIEL H.
Daniel H. is a low-key star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no
exuberant glamour and just the occasional party, Daniel
H. is very relaxed and heterofriendly. The finger food on
offer is also quite a treat. Good place to pick up flyers on
gay parties and events in Zurich.QD‑11, Müllerstrasse 51,
8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch.
Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. A­K
HELDENBAR
Here you’re off the beaten track and on the territory of the
non-commercial gay scene. The Heldenbar (hero’s bar)
which only comes alive on Wednesdays is a purely non-profit
affair. Sometimes the DJs are professional, sometimes totally
amateur, the style of music changes from week to week. If
you don’t want to dance, step outside with your beer for a
chat on the banks of the river Limmat just behind the venue.
Or take up a table-football challenge.QD‑8, Provitreff,
Sihlquai 240, 8Quellenstrasse, www.heldenbar.ch.
Open Wed 20:00 - 01:00. No admission.
62 Zurich In Your Pocket
PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR
Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top
of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and
what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially
for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic
merrymaking.QH‑12, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt,
tel. (+41) 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch.
Open 18:30 - late. Closed Mon, Sun. A
PREDIGERHOF
The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a
sure bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning.
Order one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up
a little and choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti,
the famed landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai
and Swiss staff for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll
just want to stay here, if they’re showing a game of soccer
or the Eurovision song contest.QG‑12, Mühlegasse
15, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 251 29 85,
www.predigerhof.ch. Open 14:00 - 02:00. A
CLUBS
HEAVEN
The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from
charts and house to more underground tastes like deep
house.QG‑12, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke,
www.heavenclub.ch. Open Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A
RAGE
Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works -
darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish
pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only
men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station
or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on
the weekend.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch.
Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun
17:00 - 01:00. Admission 8-20Sfr. A­X
RESOURCES
GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE
This is a Zurich-centred gay online community
with English-language content. There’s a chat area,
personals and a listing of up-coming events and info
on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to
register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com.
LGBT+ HELPLINE
LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and
operates as a registration office for homophobic
violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters
is available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00. In case of
homophobic violence you can call 24hrs to report the
incident, or report the incident online. Counselling is
in German but many counsellors speak at least some
English. It’s free to call. The number is (+41) 800 133
133.Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch.
zurich.inyourpocket.com

SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly H Conference facilities
R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Parking on site
K Restaurant 8 Nearest tram station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly W Wi-fi connection
J City centre location
Zurich is a business destination first and foremost
- and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to
Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not
take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one
of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city?
Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather
pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But
nevertheless there is something for any taste and
almost any budget.
In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with
stars from one to five. The categorization is done by
hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel
can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating
a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels
according to their official classification in the following
categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Mid-
range*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification
we list some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on
www.zurich.inyourpocket.com.
CREAM OF THE CROP
RENAISSANCE ZURICH TOWER HOTEL
This hotel opened in 2011 in the fast developing
district Zurich West. The 300 rooms on the 15 floors
of the pentagonal tower all come with full-height
windows with a dazzling view over the ever-
changing one-time industrial district. The rooms
have a more than respectable size, stylish dark
parquet flooring and either one king-size bed or
two doubles (1.40m each). Aluminium prints of the
industrial past of the district hanging on the walls
make a counterpoint to the classy dark magenta
easy-chairs and the standard lamps. There is a gym
for your workout, a sauna, a restaurant and a bar -
and room service of course.QA‑8, Turbinenstrasse
20, 8Techno-parkstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 630 30 30,
www.renaissancezurichtower.com. 300 rooms.
A­P ­U ­L ­R ­6 ­W ­K H ­ ­D ­F hhhhh
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Hotels
THE DOLDER GRAND
Set high above the city, the five-star superior Dolder Grand
is probably the city’s most exclusive hotel. In 2008 British
architect Norman Foster added two meandering wings to
the fairy-tale-castle main building from 1899. The result is
an amazing mix of modernity and tradition. And no matter
in which part of the hotel you book your room, the comfort
and the amenities offered are uncountable. Either modern
design and generous floor-to-ceiling windows in the new
wings or the sense of history in the main building. The
sumptuous in-house spa and art from Warhol to Dalì are just
some of the elements that make this a truly extraordinary
hotel.QKurhausstrasse 65, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41)
44 456 60 00, www.thedoldergrand.com. 175  rooms.
A­P­U­L­R­6­W­K­HC ­ ­DF ­ hhhhh
UPMARKET
25HOURS HOTEL ZÜRICH WEST
With the use of many lush colours local designer of renown
Alfredo Häberli has made the 25hours a very cool and
perhaps slightly crazy place - matching its location in
Zurich’s fast developing district Zürich West. The city and
its more or less known sights can be found throughout the
hotel, just keep your eyes open! The rooms come in three
different categories which differ mainly in size. In the silver
category there is a window to peek from the bathroom
to the bedroom - just one of the more surprising, playful
touches here.QPfingstweidstrasse 102, 8Toni-Areal,
tel. (+41) 44 577 25 25, www.25hours-hotels.com.
126 rooms. A­PU ­ ­L­6W ­ ­KH ­ ­D hhhh
The Dolder Grand castle in its autumn dress. PD
CROWNE PLAZA
The Crowne Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund
stadium 13 minutes from the city centre by tram. The 365
rooms come in a mix of bright and light brown hues, with
either a queen-size or two twin-size beds, a shower or a
bathtub and free tea and coffee making facilities. Upgrade
your room to a deluxe for more work space and a couch
lounge.QBadenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund, tel. (+41)
44 404 44 44, www.cpzurich.ch. 365 rooms. A­PU ­ ­
B­L­R­6­W­KH ­ ­F hhhh
October – November 2018 63
 Hotels
BUDGET HOTELS
MARTA
The Marta is a functional hotel, very centrally located in
the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away from the main
train station. The blue coloured rooms have a modern
feel. There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a
flatscreen TV in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout
the hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation,
giving socially challenged women an opportunity
to work. There is no air-conditioning but ventilators.
QG‑11, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44
269 95 95, www.hotelmarta.ch. 39  rooms. A­U­
J­6W ­ ­H hh
CENTRAL PLAZA
Central is in the name, and central it is indeed. The old
town starts right in front of the main entrance. With a
tram junction next to the hotel, it’s not the quietest spot
- but the triple glazing shuts out the city‘s noise. Standard
rooms are rather small, but live up to the standard you
can expect of a hotel of this class. There is free Wi-fi. Ask
for a room with a view onto the river or one of the two-
room junior suites. One of the suites even has a glass
ceiling so you can watch the stars while you fall asleep.
No air-conditioning but an air cooling system. Fitness
room, piano bar and King’s Cave restaurant - known for its
Eating with all senses
THE VBZ GOURMET LINE
On the VBZ gourmet line, we‘ll be serving you
the most interesting views of Zurich in the rolling
restaurant, a vintage tram. Please have a seat:
www.vbz.ch/yummytram
64 Zurich In Your
genusslinie Pocket
englisch 124 x 90mm.indd 1 zurich.inyourpocket.com
excellent sirloin - are in the building too.QG‑11, Central
1, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 256 56 56, www.central.ch.
103  rooms. A­X­U­E­L­J­R­6­W­K­H­F
hhhh
FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON SIHLCITY
This four-star hotel is housed in what was once the
warehouse of a 19th-century paper mill. The listed
columns and windows are subtly integrated into the
architecture and give the hotel a distinct urban-industrial
touch. There are five different room types, all offering
large showers, huge beds and flat screen TVs with
internet access. Mineral water, internet, national calls
and coffee are included. The Four Points Hotel is located
in the shopping mall Sihlcity which includes a multiplex
cinema, restaurants and excellent connections to the city
centre and the lake by tram and train (8 min). The fitness
centre Fitnesspark Sihlcity is located in the same building
and offers discounted entry for hotel guests.QC-16,
Kalandergasse 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44 554 00
00, www.fourpointssihlcity.com. 132  rooms. A­P­
U­L­R6 ­ ­W­K­H hhhh
H+ HOTEL ZÜRICH
The H+ is situated next to the Letzigrund sports stadium,
a 15-minute tram ride from the city centre. It was opened
in 2011 and offers four-star comfort at reasonable prices.
The huge flowers on the wallpaper give the modern rooms
a fresh touch. There is an exercise room, a sauna and a
24.01.2018 16:56:30
 Inserat-ZH-Pocket-60x185-V3_Layout 1 14.03.18 15:1
Hotels
bistro with a nice garden. All rooms are non-smoking.
QBadenerstrasse 537, 8Freihofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44
437 99 00, www.h-hotels.com/zuerich. 159  rooms.
A­P­U­B­L­R­6­W­K­H­D­F hhhh
palais kraft
Residential Club
HOTEL OPERA ZÜRICH
The Hotel Opera Zürich is a very classical boutique hotel
with a slightly modern touch. Located in the fashionable
Seefeld district, this is a convenient place to stay not only for
a visit to Zurich’s opera: Bahnhofstrasse with its boutiques
as well as the historic old town is just two tram stops away.
The lakefront is close too - if you get a room on the third
floor or higher you might even get a glimpse of the lake.
Their restaurant Opera across the street is well known for its
fish specialities.QH‑15, Dufourstrasse 5, 8Opernhaus,
tel. (+41) 44 258 98 98, www.operahotel.ch. 58 rooms.
A­P­L­J­R­6­W hhhh

MID-RANGE
BRISTOL
The Bristol is just a 5-minute walk from the main train
station. That means all the city’s central sights are in
walking distance. The rooms here are modern and
simple: they all have a wooden floor, a flat-screen TV and
come with either a single, a grand lit or two single beds.
There are also rooms with three and four beds - ideal
for families. Note there is no air-conditioning.QG‑10,
Stampfenbachstrasse 34, 8Stampfenbachplatz, tel.
(+41) 44 258 44 44, www.hotelbristol.ch. 56  rooms.
A­J­R­6­W­H hhh

SCHEUBLE
The Scheuble is situated in a historic building in
the centre of the Niederdorf district and  has been
completely refurbished in winter 2017/18. It is now
a three star superior hotel with character, the rooms
feature dark parquet flooring and can be had as
YOUR PRIVATE APARTMENT 30-200 SQM
twin  with two beds or with one double  bed.QG‑12,
Mühlegasse 17, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 FOR SHORT & LONG STAYS
268 48 00, www.scheuble.ch. 64  rooms. A­L­J­ FRIENDLY ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF
R­6­W­K hhh
CHILDREN & PETS WELCOME

HOSTELS
YOUTH HOSTEL
This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms
with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All
rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the
washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the
rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms
with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap
meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk
to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On the
weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front of the
hostel all night long. Great place to meet other travellers.
QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. (+41) PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE
43 399 78 00, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76 rooms. WWW.PALAISKRAFT.COM
A­U­W­K­H
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 65
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2-4
 Index
4Leoni Firenze 20 Giesserei Oerlikon 33 Oxblood Shoes 48 The Alehouse 29
16tons 43 Globus Delicatessa 48 Papa Ceviche 23 the Gallery 43
25hours Hotel Zürich West 63 Grossmünster 35 Péclard im Schober 27 The Giacomettis 36
Wirtschaft im Franz 26 Gübelin 52 Perron 9 33 The International 29
Airside Center at Zurich Airport Heaven 62 Petra's Tip Top Bar 62 The North Face Store 47
 44 Heldenbar 62 Pic-Chic 19 Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 59
Alkena 56 Helvti Diner Bellevue 16 Pinko 50 The Zurich Experience City Tour
Andorra 28 H+ Hotel Zürich 64 Plaza 32  40
Au-Gust 24 Hörnli - hiking and downhill Predigerhof 62 tibits 20
Bar 63 29 scooters 61 Pumpkin exhibition 60 tibits Oerlikon 33
Bar Basso 22 Hotel Opera Zürich 65 Raclette Factory 19 Tissot Boutique 53
Bebek 22 Icon 32 Rage 62 Titlis - Engelberg 61
Best of Switzerland Tours 61 Im Viadukt 46 Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel Tooché 45
Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour IWC Schaffhausen Boutique 52  63 Tres Amigos 33
 39 Jack & Jo (Europaallee) 17 RiffRaff 12 Trois Pommes - The Store
Beyer Watches & Jewellery 52 Jaime El Barco 33 Rive Gauche 29 Women 50
Billiardino 59 Jelmoli 44 Rüsterei 25 Turm 22
Bodega Espanola 23 Jimmy Choo 47 Safari Bar 31 Uetliberg 35
Botanischer Garten 36 Juicery 21 27 Scheuble 65 Vainard 53
Boutique Christian Fischbacher Jules Verne Panorama Bar 29 Schweizer Finanzmuseum Valentino 50
 48 Kafi Dihei 27 (Finance Museum) 37 Victorinox Flagship Store 51
Bovelli 27 Kafi für Dich 57 Schweizer Heimatwerk 51 Wasserkirche 36
Bowling West 59 Kai 33 Secret Tantra 31 Weinschenke 30
Brasserie Federal 26 Kaufleuten 32 Sihlcity 46 Weisser Wind 26
Bristol 65 Kennedy's Irish Pub 32 Sihlpost 9 Welschland 48
Bucherer 52 Khujug 17 Skating rink Dolder 58 Widder Garage 28
Burton Store Zürich 46 Kindercity 56 Spitz 25 Wildnispark Zürich 58
Butchers Table 23 Kokoro 21 Stadtbad Hammam & Spa 59 Yooji's Dreikönig 21
Cabinet 44 Kronenhalle 24 Stefi Talman 48 Youth Hostel 65
Café Boy 24 Kunsthaus 38 St. Peter 36 Zero Zero Rare Groove 43
Calvados 28 Kurz Jewellery and Watches 53 Strellson Store 45 Zeughauskeller 26
Central Plaza 63 La Côte 18 Swarovski 53 Zum Grobe Ernst - La Tavolata
Chäsalp 19 Lake Zurich Cruises 35 Swimming baths Oerlikon 56  21
Chocolat Dieter Meier 43 Laser Arena & Paintball 58 Swiss Casinos Zürich 29 Zum Grünen Glas 19
Chocolat Frey Visitor Centre 56 Le Dézaley 19 Swiss Shop 1291 51 Zunfthaus zur Haue 19
CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 52 Les Ambassadeurs 53 TA-BOU 48 ZurichEscape 58
Coming Soon 16 Les Halles 22 Talacker 30 zürichfoto.ch 51
Commercio 20 LGBT+ Helpline 62 Tales 30 Zurich Zoo 58
Cooper's Pub 33 Lindenhof 36 Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 51
Corso 12 Longstreet 30
Crowne Plaza 63 Lucky Noodle 17
Daniel H. 62 Maison Manesse 18
DeeCee Style 44 Manor 44 FEATURES INDEX
Didi's Frieden 17 Marc O'Polo 45
Die Waid 24 Marktküche 20 Adult entertainment 31
Dolce & Gabbanna 50 Mars Bar 30 Breakfast 27
Dolmetsch 50 Marta 64
Edi’s Weinstube 31 Max Chocolatier 43
Casino 29
Edomae 21 Maxim 31 Cheese restaurants 19
eldorado 28 Mehrspur 32 Domestic Intercity Buses 6
El Luchador 23 Meng Cutlery 51 Game season 24
Enea Tree Museum 60 Mère Catherine 18
Erfolg 48 Mesa 18 Lake Zurich 35
fidelio women 44 messer-scharf 51 Language smarts 9
FIFA World Football Museum37 Minirock 32 Live music 32
Fondation Beyeler 60 Mohrenkopf 25
Luxury shopping 50
Four Points by Sheraton Sihlcity Moods 32
 64 Moudi 22 More for less with the Zürich Card 38
Franz Carl Weber 47, 56 Mount Rigi 61 National holidays 8
Fraumünster 34 Mühlerama 57 Supersaver tickets for trains 6
Freitag 48 Napa Grill 23
Gamper Bar 30 National Museum
Swiss cuisine 22
GANT 45 (Landesmuseum) 38 Taxi smarts 5
Gartenhof 19 Nonam 39 Tax free shopping 52
gaymeboys.com online Och Sport 47 The Giacomettis 36
magazine 62 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 43
Gellner & Friends 52 Orsini 20 Tourist Information 9
Giacometti murals 34 Osswald 47 Useful Zurich apps 8

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket October – November 2018 69

 Flughafen

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