Well, you can make that five hour drive into the desert, to Las Vegas - or
you can turn south toward San Diego and find similar action in less than half
I was enticed to make that trip recently by the media blitz put out by
several newly built Indian hotels and casinos. I was curious to see what the
buzz was all about. So, I drove about three hours south through the
picturesque rolling hills of east San Diego County and spent three days
Valley Ranch Resort and Casino, Pechanga Resort and Casino, and Harrah’s
While there are plenty of Indian casinos scattered about the state, it
has only been in the last year, that many tribes have expanded their
operations. Barona, Pechanga, and Harrah’s Rincon – well these are not your
old Indian casinos anymore. Gone are the shabby tent and stucco façade
gaming halls set alongside dusty parking lots, places not much more exciting
new first rate hotels and gaming floors are lavish. And new ones are
sprouting up. Only seven miles from the new Pechanga Casino in Temecula,
the Pala Indians are nearly finished building their five hundred room hotel
and casino. While it’s not a “Vegas Strip” yet, it doesn’t take much
imagination to envision a half dozen or more first class hotel-casino venues
within 20-30 minutes of each other in this East San Diego area.
to tax and control the Indian casino business, if you visit these new casinos,
you’ll have no doubt that big time Vegas gambling has come to California.
machines and the three casino-resorts I visited have mostly taken maximum
advantage of that right. The slot games they offer are as varied and in some
ways better than those in the theme park Vegas casinos. Most of the Indian
casino slots are coin free. Only bills go in. Payouts come with classic coin
payout sound effects but instead of getting a bucketful of coins, you get a
main cashier for pay out. Craps and roulette, for reasons that defy logic,
have been forbidden to Indian gaming venues, but black jack and poker
conceived by the same designers who created Las Vegas’ Mirage, Paris Hotel,
and Caesars Palace. The Barona Mission Indians were, until their recent
foray into “gaming,” predominantly ranchers and farmers. Their hotel and
with their agrarian heritage. The hotel is California ranch style with an
attached casino that resembles a grand barn with copper gables and a stone
tower. There are 397 rooms in the eight story country modern hotel– 364
spacious guest rooms and 33 luxury suites, several larger than many homes –
from 1000 to more than 3000 square feet. There are balconies in every
room with views of dramatic boulder strewn hillsides or the resort’s
enhance the ranch-style theme. There are several lakes, a functioning old
machinery, and bronze Indian statuary. Set off to the side of the main
Standard room rates run from $79-129 with suites from $250.
western style chandelier. Once inside, you’ll discover that same Vegas furor
of flashing lights and ringing machines and players packed at the slots and
around the tables. There are three excellent dining venues in the casino – a
great buffet, a café, and a superb elegant dining restaurant, the Barona
Oaks Steakhouse. Having only been open since January 2003, the Barona
already excels in service. From its golf club, to restaurants, to casino floor,
concierge lounge, a business center, a fitness center, and a pool and spa area.
If you plan a trip to Barona and tire of golf or gambling, two quaint
California towns – Ramona and Julian are about twenty minutes away. And on
Labor Day weekend each year, there’s the Barona Pow-wow, an Indian
festival where tribes come from all around the country to compete in Native
American costumes and dance and art. I found it interesting too to visit the
Barona tribal museum. Here they do a great job in displaying pride in their
heritage. Exhibits describe the tribe’s history. They even display an army
sword. It’s not from a long ago battle. It belongs to one of their current
tribal members who graduated from West Point and is now serving in
Afghanistan. In the entire history of our country, I was told, only seven
Native Americans have graduated from West Point. The Barona are justly
In Temecula, closer still to L.A., you’ll find the Pechanga Resort and
$262,000,000 with 522 guest rooms, it is (to date) the grandest of the
Indian hotel-casinos. Here standard rooms go for $99-129 with two bedroom
planning to build one. But they offer Vegas style entertainment. There’s a
grand showroom with a 1200 seat theatre that has hosted top talent like
Tony Bennett, Ray Charles, Kenny Loggins, the Righteous Brothers, and
Winona. Two or three big shows come here each month. To see one, you may
headliners, the main showroom has also put on specialty shows – tributes to
the “Fab Four” and the “Rat Pack.” And they have a smaller cabaret lounge
where live bands play nightly. On the hotel’s top floor, in their Eagles Nest
lounge, there’s an intimate piano bar with an outdoor patio and views of the
valley below. There’s a pool and spa, a fitness center, a health club offering
There are seven restaurants with three gourmet choices – Paisano’s for
Italian food, The Grotto for seafood, and their Great Oak Steakhouse.
The casino floor has the 2000 allowed slots – all state-of-the-art -
and sixty tables for playing Blackjack, Pai Gow, Let It Ride, 3-Card Poker,
and Mini-Baccarat. There are separate rooms for Bingo and table poker.
One of the main advantages of Pechanga is that it’s right off a major
freeway exit. The others are deeper in the heartland and take some
navigating to get to. It’s also just a five minute drive from Old Town
Temecula, a quaint little village with wooden sidewalks, old west storefronts,
and lots of antique shops. And though not yet up to the fame of is more
Pechanga’s architectural style had more Vegas grandeur but still had an
“earthy” feel with lots of woodwork and stone and even an Indian feather
Indian was gone. Even the casino’s name – Harrah’s - said Vegas.
smallest of the three casino-resorts I visited. Their casino floor, with fewer
slots, was more spacious with flashier machines and more Vegas glitz than
Barona or Pechanga. Its pool was the largest of the three, though none could
be described as having a grand pool area. But Harrah’s has only 201 rooms
and you can’t make a reservation to stay here. Since they opened their
$125,000,000 property last year occupancy has been nearly 100%. They
provide all their rooms as “comps” to their loyal players. So, unless you have
your Harrah’s card already and a track record of gambling at their casinos,
While Harrah’s has six restaurants, all are open to the noisy casino
floor. And while the food may be excellent, there’s just no quiet or intimate
concert pavilion that can accommodate more than 1000 and their Oasis
south is San Diego’s Wild Animal Park. Twenty minutes to the north is
While Vegas casinos often advertise their slot payoffs – 95% plus - no
payouts. The best response I could get was, “it would not be wise business-
wise not to have a competitive return with Vegas style action.” I guess we’ll
There are also a lot of smokers in the casinos. California laws ridding
public places of smoking don’t apply to sovereign Indian nations and their
casinos.
While Las Vegas’ history is rife with stories of mafia origins, Howard
history too of Indian gaming. The Indian Gaming Regulatory Act of 1988 said
that Indian tribes could offer gaming that was legal in their state. So, when
the California lottery started and made certain types of gaming legal, the
tribes understood that they could offer gaming too. Most tribes were poor,
the extent of games they could offer was limited, and there remained
doubts about the state’s rights to control their gaming operations. So,
regulation that would make them extinct. With the passage of Prop 5 and
Prop 1A in 1998, the tribes became more secure that their gaming
operations would not be regulated out of business. And so, many went ahead
with grand building plans that have reached fruition in the past year. The
stodgy casino buildings of the Barona Indians, the Pechanga, the Rincon have
been torn down. New bold resort-casinos have taken their place. And, with
declared U.S. citizens until 1924. They were not given the right to vote until
years later. Up until ten years ago, when Indian gaming became legal, seventy
percent of them were on welfare. They had no paved roads. Many had no
electricity. And now – well now, the Sovereign Indian Nations are “in the
chips.”
comments:
“In the 1950’s they wanted to do away with the reservations,” she
says. “They wanted us to be part of the melting pot. They did not want us to
be Indian. You can’t make a person what they’re not. We have our land. They
wanted to take us, make us “hemmu,” move away. That’s why I think it is
important to preserve our land. It is our base. Some have no base. They are
lost Indians. We still know where we’re from. Our goal is to preserve our
I don’t know if 2000 slot machines and a few dozen table games is
what she had in mind, but Vegas had no noble traditions when it sprouted