Anda di halaman 1dari 21

Nakon što sam odmah počeo sa željezničkom infrastrukturom, došlo je vrijeme da napokon i

predstavim sam Izmir.

Za početak opčenite činjenice.

Buyuksehir (velegrad) Izmir, kako se službeno zove, je smješten na zapadnoj Maloazijskoj obali
egejskog mora, te je sjedište istoimene provincije. Sa svojom populacijom od 2,600 000 ljudi treći
najveći grad u Turskoj (iako se neslužbeno brojke kreću oko 3 milijuna. Među vodeća industrijska
središta u Turskoj, a najzastuljenije privredne grane su brodogradnja, metalna, tekstilna i
prehrambena industrija, obrada kože te proizvodnja cementa, a u Izmiru se nalazi i rafinerija nafte.
Smještaj Izmira na dnu 35 kilometara dugačkog izmirskog zaljeva koji duboko prodire u kopno
omogućuje dobar prometan položaj te činjenicu da je druga po izvozu a prva po uvozu turska luka. Uz
sve to je i važno turističko središte zbg mnogih arheoloških nalazišta u okolici kao i zbog plaža u
blizini.

Klimatski se nalazi na području egejske klime, tako da su zime vrlo blage. Na primjer do prije neki dan
nisam uopče morao nositi jaknu jer su se temperature kretale oko 15 stupnjeva.

Sad krenimo u povijesni turistički obilazak.

Za početak karta sa odpriličnom rutom koju sam prošao:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/Izmir.jpg[/IMG]

Najraniji tragovi naseljavanja na području Izmira nađeni su na na uzvišenijim položajima iznad


današnjeg grada, a datiraju čak 7000 godina pr. Kr. U 11. st. pr. Kr. u današnjoj industrijskoj čtvrti
Bayrakl i na otočiću unutar lagune, koja je kasnije zatrpana rječnim nanosima, grčko pleme Eoljani
osnivaju Smirnu, tj. tzv. „staru Smirnu“. Kasnije potpada pod Jonjane, te postaje najvažniji grad
jonskog zaveza 12 grada, tj. dodekapolisa, a Herodot ga opisuje kao najljepši grad na maloazisjkoj
obali. Grad je oko 610 pr. Kr. razorio lidijski kralj Alijat II, a ubrzo nakon toga 545. ga dokrajčuju
Perzijanci pod vodstvom kralja Kira Velikog.

Oko 340. pr. Kr. grad ponovno osniva Aleksandar Veliki, ali na novoj lokaciji, 10 km južnije od
dotadašnje, na obroncima brda Pagos, danas Kedikefale. Legenda kaže da je dok je bio u lovu, zaspao
na obronku, te mu se u snu ukazala božica Nemeza rekavši mu da na tom mjestu osnuje grad.

Na vrhu tog brda koje dominira gradom smjestila se akropola opasana zidinama, nad čijim je
temeljima sagrađena danas vidljiva osmanlijska tvrđava. To je ujedno i najbolje mjesto za početak
ovog povijesnog slikoputopisa.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05236.jpg[/IMG]

Tvrđava je iznutra:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05253.jpg[/IMG]

Nema baš nikakvih sadržaja i potpuno je zapuštena, unatoč tome što bi mogla biti top turistička točka
zbog savršenog pogleda na grad. Čak bi i kod nas stavili unutra barem koji kafić.

Rimska cisterna do koje su sa okolnih brda vodili akvedukti i od koje se dalje voda tekla prema gradu:
[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05255.jpg[/IMG]

Nakon raspada Aleksandrove države, dolazi pod vlast kreljevstva Pergam. Posljednji pergamski kralj
Eumenej III. oporučno ostavlja cjelo kraljevstvoRimljanima, zajedno sa Smirnom, čime ona ulazi u
razdoblje prosperiteta. U gradu je tada živjelo oko 50 000 stanovnika, a tlocrt mu je bio konstruiran
prema Hipodamovom sistemu tlocrta, tj. ulice su se sjekle pod pravim kutom. Ulice su bile sve
popločene, a u gradu su se pored ostalog nalazila kupališta, stadion i kazalište za 20 000 gledatelja.

Vrijeme je i da se ja spustimo prema gradu:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05230.jpg[/IMG]

Na obronku na kojem se nakd nalazio grad, danas se nalazi pravi slum. Iako se nalazi faktički u
strogom centru grada, čovjek ima osječaj kako da je usred nekog Kozari Boka, pogotovo zbog gomile
romske populacije.

Detalj iz predgrađa:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05229.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05266.jpg[/IMG]

Na slici se vidi i Murat, ili Haci Murat (hodočasnik Murat), legendarni auto, prvi koji je u Turskoj
proizveden prema stranoj licenci od 1971-1977 u tvornici Tofas. Tofas je definitivno broj 1 prometlo u
Turskoj, te kako je on zapravo bio podružnica FIAT-a te su i svi kasniji Tofasi kao i Murat rađeni po
uzoru na FIAT-ove modele.

Još malo slika iz predgrađa:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05263.jpg[/IMG]

U Turskoj se često susreću i ovakva prometala:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05228.jpg[/IMG]

A i ovakvi oldtimeri (za ljubitelje kamiona):

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05261.jpg[/IMG]

Ovi televizori i veš mašine nisu odvoz glomaznog otpada nego obična prodavaona tehničke robe:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC04992.jpg[/IMG]

Dok smo se spuštali kroz ovaj geto prema gradu, pratili su nas znatiželjni pogledi i dobacivanja budući
da sam bio sa prijateljima iz Indonezije, a stranci tu baš ne zalaze. Je da smo prolazili kroz cijeli
labirint uličica, a trebalo se samo spuštati prama dolje, ali ne, oni odlučili pitat. I zaustave nekog
dečka, i on će nas odvesti. Ja nepovjerljiv prema takvim vodićima pogotovo u Turskoj gdje redovoto
strancima poslije naplačuju takve vodičke uslugeili bilokakvu pomoč, pokušavao mu na svakakve
načine reći da ne mora ići sa nama, ali on se nije dao. Usput nam je čak kupio i mandarine. Mislim si
super, sad će nam još i to uračunati. Al na kraju je ispalo da je dečku bilo samo do društva.
Napokon stižemo:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05225.jpg[/IMG]

U središtu grada se nalazila se isprva agora, a kasnije u doba Rima forum, tj. trg, koji je bio središte
trgovine i uprave a svojom veličinom 165 x 200 m je bio jedan od najvećih u rimskom carstvu. Sa tri
stane je bio okružen porticima iza kojih su se nalazile trgovine i bazilika (upravna i sudbena zgrada), a
koji su danas djelomično rekonstruirani.

Grad je inače u povijesti mnogo puta stradavao od potresa. Najrazorniji je bio 174. po. Kr. koji je
razorio grad do temelja, te ga je car Marko Aurelije dao ponovo sagraditi. Za zaštitu od budućih
potresa su u supstrukcijama zgrada koje okružuju forum ugrađeni polukružni lukovi.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05216.jpg[/IMG]

Nakon prestanka života na ovom prostrou i povlačenja u sigurniju tvrđavu, ovaj prostor isparva bio
bizantsko, a kasnije i osmanlijsko groblje, što je razlog očuvanosti ovog lokaliteta. Njegov mali dio je i
danas ostavljen:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05223.jpg[/IMG]

Korintski kapiteli nađeni tijekom iskopavanja:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05221.jpg[/IMG]

Skulptura lava koja je stajala na ulazu na forum:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05227.jpg[/IMG]

Pas koji me iz neznam kojeg razloga cjelo vrijeme pratio:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05212.jpg[/IMG]

Izmir je definitivno grad pasa lutalica te ih ima na svakom koraku. No nisu uopče opasni, naprotiv.
Naime poltika gradskog šinteraja je takva da pse nakon kaj pokupe nakon određenog vremena
„uspavaju“, nego ih cjepe te vrate na cestu, a na uši im prikelje markicu kako bi građani bili sigurni da
pas nije opasan po zdravlje. Mora da ih pritom i nečime dobro ušlagiraju jer flegmatičnije pse nisam
vidio do sada, ne trzaju čak ni kada mačke trčkaraju oko njih. A one ruine od zgrada u pozadini su
posljedice potresa iz 1980. Odlučeno je da se te zgrade na obnavljaju kako bi se buduća arheološka
istraživanja na tom prostoru mogla obavljati. No izgleda da se čeka da se zgrade same od sebe sruše.

Pojavom kršćanstva, Smirna postaje i snažan centar kršćanstva, te su tu rođeni i poznati crkveni
skolastici Irenej i Polikarp. Nakon pada Rimskog Carstva, Smirna podpada pod Bizant. Od 11. St.
Smirna doživljava jako burnu povijest. 1076. je zauzimaju Turci Selđuci, no brzo se vrača pod vlast
Bizanta. Zatim se 1204. u vrijeme križarskog zauzeča Carigrada (to je onaj IV. Križarski rat u kojem je i
Zadar stradao), zauzimaju ju Rodski Vitezovi (kasnije poznati kao Hospitalci i malteški vitezovi).
Ubrzo dospijeva pod posjed Nikejskog Carstva jedne od tri država nastalih raspadom Bizanta, koje
pak svojim saveznicima Đenovežanima dodjeljuje tvrđavu unutar luke. Provalom Mongola sredinom
13. st. Selđučka se država doživljava kaotično stanje u kojem se niz beylika tj. begovina (po naški:
gospodstava) osamostaljuju. Početkom 14. st.jedan od njih, Aydinski bejlik, zauzima Smirnu, no
krščanska koalicija pod vodstvom pape Klementa VI. je 1344. zauzima tvrđavu u luci i vrača je
Đenovežanima, te narednih desetljeća traje pat pozicija između dvije strane. U to vrijeme se već
počinje ustaljavati turcizirano ime Izmir, makar se naziv Smirna izvan Turske ipotrebljava sve do 1930.

1389. Otomansko Carstvo izraslo iz rumskog bejlika,pod vodstvom Bejazida I. zauzima Aydinski bejlik
ulaze u Izmir bez borbe, dok je tvrđava u luci i dalje pod Đenovežanima. 1402, Timur Lenk provaljuje
u Otomansko carstvo, što dovodi sudbinu otomasnke države u pitanje. Timur nekadašnje posjede
vrača u ruke dinastija koje su prije vladale bejlicima. Tako osobno dolazi u Izmir da bi obavio jedinu
birku protiv ne-muslimana, preoteo lučku tvrđavu od Đenovežana i uspješno je vratio Ajdinskom
emiru. Konačno Murat II 1426. Za stalno vrača Izmir pod posjed Otomanskog carstva. U 15, i 16. St.
grad se jako sporo ravija unatoč Tome useljavanje Sefarida iz Španjoske, koji razvijaju trgovinu.

U to vrijeme na pdoručju nekadašnje luke čiji je zaljev dao zatrpati Timur Lenk kako bi lučka tvrđava
izgubila funkciju, nastaje Kemeralti, trgovačka ćetvrt Izmira koje se satoji od mnogih zavojitih ulica,
nešto kao Baščaršija u Sarajevu. I danas se dok se prolazi ovuda može osjetiti ugođaj nekadašnjeg
doba. Roba se u pravilu izlaže ispred minijaturnih radnji,isprepliču se različiti mirisi hrane, reklamna
propaganda se odvija glasnim uzvicima a često se od uličnih prodavača ne može ni proči, te se vrlo
lako izgubi osječaj za prostronu orjentaciju.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC04983.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05181.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05206.jpg[/IMG]

Iako večina ljudi u Izmiru ni izgledom ni oblačenjem se ne razlikuju od ljudi na primjer kod nas, ja ipak
svojom pomalo bljedunjavom pojavom dosta odudaram. Tako da ćim malo zastanem me istog časa
skuže napasni prodavači traperica i počne ono poznato „sir sir, helou, ver ar ju from?“. Moram
priznati da Afrika metoda pali.

Hisar cami, tj. prevedono „tvrđavska đamija“ je najstarija đamija u Izmiru sagrađena 1592, a ime joj
referira na nekadašnju đenovešku tvrđavu.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC04982.jpg[/IMG]

U Kemeraltiju su se nalazili i mnogobrojni hanovi, a najveći je Kızlarağası Han iz 1744, koji se još uvjek
koristi za prodaju nakita i suvenira:
[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05179.jpg[/IMG]

Početkom 17. St. već pomalo oslabljeno Tursko Carstvo prisiljeno je davati strancima različite
nepovoljne ustupke u smislu trgovine, a sastavljene u obliku ugovora, tzv. kapitulacija. Tako
kapitulacijom iz 1621. kojom su stranim trgovcima u Izmiru dani privilegirani uvjeti, počinje novo
razdoblje za Izmir. Grad postaje međunarodna luka se a generalni konzulati sele sa Hiosa. U to doba
doseljava mnogo britanskih, francuskih, nizozemskih i talijanskih trgovaca, kao i Grci, Armenci te
Židovi iz ostalih dijelova Turskog Carstva, čime grad postaje kozmoplitsko središte.

Unatoč epidemiji kuge 1676, potresu 1688 te požaru 1744, grad i dalje raste. Jedino je potres iz 1688.
I tsunami koji je slijedio nakon njega, ima za posljedicu to da se stranci sele na okolna brda gdje
izgrađuju luksuzne rezidencije.
U 19. St. novi poticaj daje naravno izgradnja prve željeznice u Turskom Carstvu 1856. od Izmira do
Aydina. O značenju željeznice dovoljno govori i cijela četvrt hotela sagrađena u blizini kolodvora
Basmane. Glavna ulica u tom kvartu se naravno zove hoteler sokağı, te su zgrade u njoj do danas
zadržale funkciju hotela:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05196.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05194.jpg[/IMG]

Izmir dobiva i široke avenije, a grade se i nove poslovne palače u središtu grada u tada u Europi
popularnom neomaurskom stilu, od kojih neke do danas još uvijek odolijevaju modernoj gradnji.

Lijeva zgrada je palača burze:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05163.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05165.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05187.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05172.jpg[/IMG]

Kako se luka razvija, grade se i novi lučku objekti. Passaport pier iz 1876. Sagrađen kao pristanište za
međunarodni promet.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05157.jpg[/IMG]

Primjetite kako je riva nisko postavljena u odnosu na more, ali zbog smještaja unutar dubokog
zaljeva valova skoro i nema.

A ovo je Konak pier 1890. kojeg je projektirao ni manje ni više nego Gustave Eifel. Sagrađen je kao
skladište, a danas se tu nalazi luksuzni šoping centar i restorani.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05169.jpg[/IMG]

Najpoznatiji simbol Izmira je definitivno saat kulesi, tj. sahat kula. Sagradio ju je francuski arhitekt
Charles Père je povodom 25. godišnjice dolaska sultana Abdulahamida II na prijestolje. Uzor za
gradnju je pronašao u sjevernoafričkoj islamskoj arhitekturi.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC04908.jpg[/IMG]

Sahat kula je smještena glavnom gradskom trgu, Konak meydani, koji je ime dobio prema
guvernerovoj rezidenciji iz 19. St, tj. konaku, koji je i danas sjedište gradskog poglavrastva. Danas se
cijela upravna jedinica koja obuhvaća centar zove Konak. Mala đamija potiće iz 18. St, te je sagrađena
u sklopu medrese koja je kao i mnoge povijesne građevine srušena 1955. na poticaj tadašnjeg
predsjednika İsmet İnönüa, inaće rođenog u Izmiru.

Društveni ž ivot je isto tako bogat u tom razdoblju, te Izmir često nazivaju i malim
Parizom zbog mnogih kazališta koja su tada postojala u gradu. Nekadašnje grčko
kazalište, danas je gradsko kazalište i opera:
[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC049
74.jpg[/IMG]

Sjeverno od Kmeraltija razvija se novo trgovačko i stambeno središte Alsancak. Tamo


su još uvijek sačuvane stare kuće sa tipičnim balkonima.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
45.jpg[/IMG]

Danas je to četvrt sa kafićima i restoranima. Tipična ulica u Alsancaku:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
44.jpg[/IMG]

Završetak I. Svjetskog rata donosi najveći rez u gradskoj povijesti. Mirom u Sevresu
1919, Izmir i okolica su pripali Grčkoj. Ulazak grčke vojske u grad bio je popračen
mučenjem i ubijanjem turskog stanovništva. No unutar 3-godiš nje uprave ipak se
napravilo dosta na poboljšanju zdravstva, obrazovanja te sanitarne infrastrukture u
gradu.

Nakon neuspjele grčke ekspedicije u Anatoliju i poraza, turska vojska 9. 9. 1922.


ulazi u Izmir. Nad Grčkim stanovništvom koje je ostalo izvršena je strahovita osveta,
a izmirski patrijarh je smaknut na psoebno okrutan način odsjecanjem ušiju, nosa, te
ruku i nogu. Unatoč tome taj datum se danas slavi kao dan oslobođenja Izmira, te je
dao ime jednoj od glavnih cesta ulica, a i tehničko sveučilište nosi naziv 9. Eylul. Več
četiri dana poslije, 13. 9. Izmir je pogodio veliki pož ar. Danas se uglavnom smatra da
je pož ar podmetnut od strane Turaka, makar neki povjesničari, uglavnom turski,
smatraju da je grška vojska zajedno sa, naravno Armnecima podmetnula pož ar kao
nastavak politike spaljene zemlje provođene tijekom povlačenja iz Anatolije. Pož ar je
zahvatio gotovo cijeli grad, a ljudi koji nisu uspjeli pobjeći izgorili su u pož aru ili se
utopili u moru dok su se pokušavali spasiti. Ispred Izmira tih dana bila usidrena
britanska i američka flota no oni proklamirajući neutralnost nisu ništa učinili, čak su
glasnije svirali muziku da se nebi čuli ljudski vrisci. Pož ar je trajao 4 dana, te je
pož aru stradalo oko 20 000 ljudi, a oko 400 000 Grka i Armenaca iz Izmira i okolice
uspjelo je pobjeći na obliž nje grčke otoke. Preostalo stanovništvo je nakon ugovora u
Lausani 1923. razmjenjeno za tursko stanovništvo iz Grčke.

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/poarusm
irni.jpg[/IMG]

(slika preuzeta sa wikipedije)

Simbol tog pož ara je ova bivša vatrogasna postaja, koja danas služ i kao muzej grada:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
89.jpg[/IMG]
Grad je nakon pož ara trebalo sagraditi iz temelja, te se grad danas sastoji uglavnom
od modernih građevina. Unutar grada na prostoru pož ara je ostavljena ogromna
zelena površina, tj. Kulturpark, unutar kojeg je smješten i izmirski međunarodni
velesajam. Tijekom izgrađivanja pazilo se da se što bolje izbriše prethodni grčki
pečat. Posebni udarac na stariju arhitekturu je bio zakon o vlasniš tvu nad katovima
iz 1965. koji je dozvoljavao da vlasnik zemlje ili kuće na čijem se zemljištu gradi 8-
katnica i građevinski poduzetnik dijele dobit. To je prouzločilo posebnu katastrofu
na urbani pejzaž što se danas jako primjeti, te je meni osobno Izmir opčenito
neugodan, hladan pomalo klaustrofobičan grad, te mi je Zagreb objektivno puno
ljepš i.

Glavna ulica Adnan Menderes Bulvari, nazvana po prvom demokratski izabranom


turskom premijeru:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
46.jpg[/IMG ]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
50.jpg[/IMG ]

Inače je nazivlje ulica u Izmiru je za mene jako problematičan budući da su samo


glavne avenije imenovane prema nekim konkretnim pojmovima. Ogromna većina
ulica je imenovana prema brojevima i to bez ikakva reda. Npr. 643. sokak je smješten
tik do 325. koji se pak spaja sa 721/3. tako da je za stranca jako teško se snalaziti.

Ni stara četvrt Kemeralti nije ostala pošteđena, jednostavno je presječena sa


modernim evenijama:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
86.jpg[/IMG]

Zgrade ministarstava u blizini Konak Meydanija:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
73.jpg[/IMG ]

Ataturk Meydani. Pogađajte tko je lik na konju:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
58.jpg[/IMG]

Na sreću neki dijelovi grada su prež ivjeli i tu katastrofu, a između bezličnih


betonskih grdosija koje su svakakvo interpolirane, još se mož e naići na starije
zgrade:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
60.jpg[/IMG ]
[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC052
02.jpg[/IMG ]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC052
04.jpg[/IMG]

U Izmir, u kojem su prije pož ara Grci činili oko 65 % stanovništva, nakon pož ara
masovno doseljava stanovništvo iz centralne Anatolije, što je uveliko promjenilo
njegov etnički sastav. No još uvjek postoji snaž na ž idovska zajednica, te Levantinska
manjina, tj. potomci mediternaskih krš ćana, uglavnom Talijana i Francuza.

Što se mentaliteta ljudi tiče, Izmir se unatoč recentnim imigracijama opčenito unutar Turske smatra
smatra najeuropskijim gradom. Vjerojatno je tomu tako zbog njegove povijesti, kuturnog nasljeđa pa
i smještaja. Isto tako ga smatraju i tvrđavom sekularizma, pa je politički tradicionalno uporište CHP
(Cumhuriyet Halk Partisi iliti republikanske narodne stranke). Dosta ljudi u Izmiru se čak javno
proklamira protiv religije. To se može i lako primjetiti na ulicama, gdje se neće često naiči na žene
pokrivene maramom. Iako sve zavisi u kojem se dijelu grada nalaziš.

Shodno mutlietničnosti, iz Izmira potječu i mnoge poznate osobe. Osim Ismeta Inönüa, spomenut ću
još samo Aristotela Onassisa, Daria Morena, poznatog glazbenika i filmskog skladatelja židovskog
porijekla, Alec Issigonis, britanski automobiski dizajner te tvorac Mini Morrisa, te Michela
Elfteriadesa, grčko-libanonskog pjesnika, skladatelja, pisca, političara, biznismena i samoproglašenog
cara utopijske države Nowheristan.

No da privedem današ nji putopis kraju. Oosbno najljepši dio Izmira mi je definitivno
Kordon, š iroko šetalište koje se prostire uz obalu i ako se zanemare čistači cipela i
prodavači svega i svačega, prostor gdje se mož e normalno disati bez kaotičnog
prometa.

Spomenik republici:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
51.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
54.jpg[/IMG ]

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC051
55.jpg[/IMG]

Za kraj nekoliko panoramskih fotki slikanih sa tvrđave (naž alost mi vrijeme nije baš
bilo naklonjeno)

Pogled prema sjeverozapadu:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05242.jpg[/IMG]

Ova zelena površina u sredini je izmirski velesajam.


Pogled prema zapadu:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05243.jpg[/IMG]

Prema jugu:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05241.jpg[/IMG]

Te prema istoku:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/DSC05246.jpg[/IMG]

I jedna sa Konak Meydanijem u prednjem planu:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/izmir/PC010876.jpg[/IMG]

I za sami kraj jedna prava umjetnička zalaska sunca i brodova koji čekaju ulaz u luku:

[IMG]http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad309/miroslav_razum/PB280868.jpg[
/IMG]

Nakon ovog dabljenja sa povijesnim okolnostima, u sljedećem nastavku očekujte


opet tračničku infrastrukturu.

Pozdrav!

In the late 19th century, the port was threatened by a build-up of silt in the gulf and an
initiative, unique in the history of the Ottoman Empire, was undertaken in 1886 to move
Gediz River's bed to its present-day northern course, instead of letting it flow into the gulf, in
order to redirect the silt. The beginning of the 20th century saw the city under the genuine and
cosmopolitan looks of a metropolitan center with a global fame and reach.

Following the defeat of the Ottoman Empire in World War I, the victors had, for a time,
intended to carve up large parts of Anatolia under respective zones of influence and offered
the western regions of Turkey to Greece with the Treaty of Sèvres. On 15 May 1919 the
Greek Army occupied İzmir, but the Greek expedition towards central Anatolia turned into a
disaster for both that country and for the local Greeks of Turkey.

The Turkish Army retook possession of İzmir on 9 September 1922, effectively ending the
Greco-Turkish War (1919-1922) in the field. Part of the Greek population of the city was
forced to seek refuge in the nearby Greek islands together with the departing Greek troops,
while the rest left in the frame of the ensuing 1923 agreement for the Exchange of Greek and
Turkish Populations, which was a part of the Lausanne Treaty.

The war, and especially its events specific to İzmir, like the fire that broke out on 13
September 1922, one of the greatest disasters İzmir has ever experienced, continues to
influence the psyches of the two nations to this day. The Turks have claimed that the
occupation was marked from its very first day by the "first bullet" fired on Greek detachments
by the journalist Hasan Tahsin and the killing by bayonet coups of Colonel Fethi Bey and his
unarmed soldiers in the historic casern of the city (Sarı Kışla — the Yellow Casern), for
refusing to shout "Zito o Venizelos" (Long Live Venizelos). The Greeks, on the other hand,
have accused the Turks of committing many atrocities against the Greek and Armenian
communities in İzmir, including the lynching of the Orthodox Metropolitan Chrysostomos
following their recapture of the city on 9 September 1922 and the slaughter of Armenian and
Greek Christians.[16] A Turkish source on İzmir's oral history concedes that in 1922, "hat-
wearers were thrown into the sea, just like, back in 1919, fez-wearers were thrown."[17] The
lack of comprehensive and reliable sources from the period, combined with nationalist
feelings running high on both sides, and mutual distrust between the conflicting parties, has
led to each side accusing each other for decades of committing atrocities during the period.
The city was, once again, gradually rebuilt after the proclamation of the Turkish Republic in
1923.

A seaside view from the İnciraltı quarter.

[edit] Population

Population of İzmir
Year Population
2007 2,606,294
Forum Bornova Shopping Center 2000 2,232,265
The period after the 1960s and the 1970s saw another blow to 1990 1,758,780
İzmir's tissue - as serious as the 1922 fire for many inhabitants - 1985 1,489,817
when local administrations tended to neglect İzmir's traditional
values and landmarks. Some administrators were not always in 1970 554,000
tune with the central government in Ankara and regularly fell short 1965 442,000
of subsidies, and the city absorbed huge immigration waves from 1960 371,000
Anatolian inland causing a population explosion. Today it is not
surprising to see many inhabitants of İzmir (in line with natives of 1955 286,000
a number of other prominent Turkish cities) look back to a cozier 1950 231,000
and more manageable city, which came to an end in the last few
decades, with nostalgia. The Floor Ownership Law of 1965 (Kat 1945 200,000
1940 184,000
1935 171,000
1927 154,000
Mülkiyeti Kanunu), allowing and encouraging arrangements between house or land
proprietors and building contractors in which each would share the benefits in rent of 8-floor
apartment blocks built in the place of the former single house, proved especially disastrous for
the urban landscape.

The population of the city is predominantly Muslim, but secularism is very strong in this
region of Turkey.[18] İzmir is also home to Turkey's second largest Jewish community after
Istanbul, still 2,500 strong.[19] The community is still concentrated in their traditional quarter
of Karataş. Smyrniot Jews like Sabbatai Zevi and Darío Moreno were among the famous
figures of the city's Jewish community.

The Levantines of İzmir, who are mostly of Genoese and to a lesser degree of French and
Venetian descent, live mainly in the districts of Bornova and Buca. One of the most
prominent present-day figures of the community is Caroline Giraud Koç, wife of the
renowned Turkish industrialist Mustafa Koç. Koç Holding is one of the largest family-owned
industrial conglomerates in the world.
Economic data on İzmir [20] 2008

[edit] Economy Unemployment rate 11.8


Nr. of unemployed 156,000

Trade through the city's port had a Public investments 310,793 (million US Dollars)
determinant importance for the economy of Exports 21,6 (billion US Dollars)
the Ottoman Empire as of the beginning of Imports 26.1 (billion US Dollars)
the 19th century and the economic Nr. of companies 102,153
foundations of the early decades of Turkey's
Nr. of companies
Republican era were also laid here in İzmir with foreign capital 1,321
Economic Congress. Presently, İzmir area's
Nr. of companies started 2008 4,813
economy is divided in value between
various types of activity as follows: 30.5 % Nr. of companies ceased 2008 2,841
for industry, 22.9 % for trade and related Tax revenues 11.843 (million US Dollars)
services, 13.5 % for transportation and Bank deposits total 17.932 (million US Dollars)
communication and 7.8 % for agriculture. In Bank loans total 13.315 (million US Dollars)
2008, İzmir provided 10.5 % of all tax Nr. of bank branches 667
revenues collected by Turkey and its exports
corresponded to 6 % and its imports 4 % of Nr. of tourists 1,079,000

Turkey's foreign trade. The province as a


whole is Turkey's third largest exporter after Istanbul and Bursa, and the fifth largest importer.
85-90 % of the region's exports and approximately one fifth of all Turkish exports are made
through the Port of Alsancak with an annual container loading capacity of close to a million.
[21]

[edit] Main sites of interest


For further information on the remnants of the ancient city, see Smyrna
Izmir Clock Tower (1901)

Standing on Mount Yamanlar, the tomb of Tantalus was explored by Charles Texier in 1835
and is an example of the historic traces in the region prior to the Hellenistic Age, along with
those found in nearby Kemalpaşa and Mount Sipylus.

The Agora of Smyrna is well preserved, and is arranged into the Agora Open Air Museum of
İzmir, although important parts buried under modern buildings are waiting to be brought to
daylight. Serious consideration is also being given to uncovering the ancient theatre of
Smyrna where St. Polycarp was martyred, buried under an urban zone on the slopes of
Kadifekale. It was distinguishable until the 19th century, as evident by the sketchings done at
the time. On top of the same hill soars an ancient castle which is one of the landmarks of
İzmir.

One of the more pronounced elements of Izmir's harbor is the Clock Tower, a beautiful
marble tower that rests in the middle of the Konak district, standing 25 m (82 ft) in height. It
was designed by the Levantine French architect Raymond Charles Père in 1901 for the
commemoration of the 25th anniversary of the ascension of Abdülhamid II to the Ottoman
throne in 1876. The clock workings themselves were given as a gift by the German Kaiser
Wilhelm II, a political ally of Abdülhamid II. The tower features four fountains which are
placed around the base in a circular pattern, and the columns are inspired by North African
themes.

The Kemeraltı bazaar zone set up by the Ottomans, combined with the Agora, rests near the
slopes of Kadifekale. İzmir has had three castles historically - Kadifekale (Pagos), the
portuary Ok Kalesi (Neon Kastron, St. Peter), and Sancakkale, which remained vital to
İzmir's security for centuries. Sancakkale is situated in the present-day İnciraltı quarter
between the Balçova and Narlıdere districts, on the southern shore of the Gulf of İzmir. It is at
a key point where the strait allows entry into the innermost tip of the Gulf at its narrowest, and
due to shallow waters through a large part of this strait, ships have sailed close to the castle.[22]
Oteller Street in the historic Basmane neighbourhood.

There are nine synagogues in İzmir, concentrated either in the traditional Jewish quarter of
Karataş or in Havra Sokak (Synagogue street) in Kemeraltı, and they all bear the signature of
the 19th century when they were built or re-constructed in depth on the basis of former
buildings.

The İzmir Birds Paradise in Çiğli, a bird sanctuary near Karşıyaka, contains 205 species of
birds. There are 63 species of domestic birds, 54 species of summer migratory birds, 43
species of winter migratory birds, and 30 species of transit birds. 56 species of birds have
been breeding in the Park. İzmir Bird's Paradise which covers 80 square kilometres was
registered as "The protected area for water birds and for their breeding" by the Turkish
Ministry of Forestry in 1982. A large open air zoo was established in the same district of Çiğli
in 2008 under the name Sasalı Park of Natural Life.

İzmir International Fair

Main article: İzmir International Fair

İzmir prides itself with its busy schedule of trade fairs, exhibitions and congresses. İzmir
International Fair (IEF), the oldest member from Turkey of the International Union of Fairs is
held every year in August-September at Kültürpark, which covers an area of 421,000 m² in
the heart of the city with open-air theatres, the Painting and Sculpture Museum, art centers,
amusement park, zoo, parachute tower, and other amenities. Aside from this main event,
which acts as a central theme for many other secondary events, there are numerous others
throughout the year. In 2007, for example, 35 national or international fairs and exhibitions
were held in İzmir around the year and in relation to different areas of activity. These fairs
have made great contributions to İzmir's social and cultural life.

[edit] Climate
İzmir has a typical Mediterranean climate which is characterized by long, hot and dry
summers; and mild to cool, rainy winters. The total precipitation for İzmir averages 706 mm
(27.8 inches) per year; however, 77% of that falls during November through March. The rest
of the precipitation falls during April through May and September through October. There is
virtually no rainfall during the months of June, July and August.

The average maximum temperatures during the winter months vary between 12 and 14 °C.
Although it's rare, snow can fall in İzmir in December, January and February staying for a
period of hours rather than a whole day or more. The summer months — from May to
October — usually brings average daytime temperatures of 30 °C or higher. On a number of
occasions, temperatures as high as 46°C have been recorded in the city.

[hide]Weather data for İzmir, Turkey


Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
53 54 60 68 77 87 91 90 84 74 63 55 71
Average high °F (°C)
(12) (12) (16) (20) (25) (31) (33) (32) (29) (23) (17) (13) (22)
39 40 44 50 57 64 68 67 61 55 47 42 53
Average low °F (°C)
(4) (4) (7) (10) (14) (18) (20) (19) (16) (13) (8) (6) (12)
Source: Weatherbase[23] September 2007

[edit] Cuisine of İzmir


İzmir's cuisine has largely been affected by its multicultural history, hence the large variety of
food originating from the Aegean, Mediterranean and Anatolian regions. Another factor is the
large area of land surrounding the region which grows a rich selection of vegetables. Some of
the common dishes found here are the tarhana soup (made from dried yoghurt and tomatoes),
İzmir köfte, keşkek (boiled wheat with meat), zerde (sweetened rice with saffron) and mücver
(made from zucchini and eggs). Boyoz and lokma are Turkish pastries associated with İzmir,
the former prepared for commercial purposes and the latter to commemorate the deceased.
Kumru is a special kind of sandwich that is associated particularly with the Çeşme district and
features cheese and tomato in its basics, with sucuk also added sometimes.[24]

Historically, as a result of the influx of Greek refugees from İzmir (as well as from other parts
of Asia Minor and Istanbul) to mainland Greece after 1922, the cuisine of İzmir has had an
enormous impact on Greek cuisine, exporting many sophisticated spices and foods.

[edit] Festivals

Ahmet Adnan Saygun Art Center

The annual İzmir International Festival, which begins in mid-June and continues until mid-
July, has been organized since 1987. During the festival, many world-class performers such as
soloists and virtuosi, orchestras, dance companies, rock and jazz groups including Ray
Charles, Paco de Lucia, Joan Baez, Martha Graham Dance Company, Tanita Tikaram, Jethro
Tull, Leningrad Philarmonic Orchestra, Chris De Burgh, Sting, Moscow State Philarmony
Orchestra, Jan Garbarek, Red Army Chorus, Academy of St. Martin in the Field, Kodo, Chick
Corea and Origin, New York City Ballet, Nigel Kennedy, Bryan Adams, James Brown, Elton
John, Anathema, Kiri Te Kanawa, Mikhail Barishnikov and Josep Carreras have given recitals
and performances at various venues in the city and its surrounding areas; including the ancient
theatres at Ephesus and Metropolis (an ancient Ionian city situated near the town of Torbalı.)
The festival is a member of the "European Festivals Association" since 2003.

The İzmir European Jazz Festival is among the numerous events organized every year by the
İKSEV (İzmir Foundation for Culture, Arts and Education) since 1994. The festival aims to
bring together masters and lovers of jazz with the aim to generate feelings of love, friendship
and peace.

The International İzmir Short Film Festival is organized since 1999 and is a member of the
European Coordination of Film Festivals.

İzmir Metropolitan Municipality has built the Ahmet Adnan Saygun Art Center on a 21,000
m2 land plot in the Güzelyalı district, in order to contribute to the city's culture and art life.
The acoustics of the center have been prepared by ARUP which is a world famous company
in this field.

[edit] Sports

The mascot of Universiade 2005 in İzmir

Notable football clubs in İzmir are: Altay SK, Bucaspor, Altınordu, Göztepe A.Ş., İzmirspor
and Karşıyaka SK. Currently there is no team from İzmir playing in the Turkish Super
League, but the teams of İzmir were once among the greatest in Turkey. Göztepe A.Ş. played
the semi finals of the UEFA Cup in the 1968-1969 season, and the quarter finals of the UEFA
Cup Winners' Cup in the 1969-1970 season; becoming the first ever Turkish football club to
play a semi-final game in Europe. Altay SK and Göztepe A.Ş. have won the Turkish Cup
twice for İzmir.

Legendary 1960s football star Metin Oktay, a native of İzmir, played in İzmirspor,
Galatasaray and Palermo.

Despite the current lack of any İzmir-based team in the Turkish Super League, the İzmir
Atatürk Stadium regularly hosts many Super League and Turkish Cup derby matches,
including those of Beşiktaş, Fenerbahçe, and Galatasaray.

Karşıyaka SK's basketball team won the Turkish Basketball Championship title and
Presidential Cup in 1987.

Several important international sports events were held in İzmir:

 1971 - The Mediterranean Games,


 7 - 22 August, 2005 - The 2005 Summer Universiade, the International University
Sports Games,
 2 - 7 September, 2005 - Preliminary games of the 2005 European Women's Basketball
Championship,
 4 - 9 July, 2006 - The 2006 European Seniors Fencing Championship,
 14 - 23 July, 2006 - The U20 European Basketball Championship for Men,
 7 - 11 May, 2008 - The 7th WTF World Junior Taekwondo Championship.

[edit] Education
The following universities are located in İzmir:

 Ege University - Founded in 1955, Ege University is İzmir's first university to start
courses. The rectorate and the campus which englobes most of the university's
institutions (62 in all, with 3141 academic staff and 42,693 students for 2006/2007)
are situated in the metropolitan district of Bornova.
 Dokuz Eylül University - Founded in 1982 principally by the splitting off of a number
of institutions from Ege, Dokuz Eylül University today equals in size to its sister
university. The rectorate is in the central Alsancak neighborhood, while the campus is
located in the metropolitan district of Buca, with 61 depending institutions across
İzmir or in the city's districts, employing 3027 academic staff and uniting a student
corpus of 43,851 for 2006/2007.
 İzmir Institute of Technology - Founded in 1992, İzmir Institute of Technology is the
city's first institute of technology, while the campus, which is Turkey's largest, is
located in the nearby district of Urla.
 İzmir University of Economics - Founded as a private sector initiative in 2002 by the
İzmir Chamber of Commerce, İzmir University of Economics is a specialized
university with a campus in the metropolitan district of Balçova.
 Yaşar Üniversitesi (Yaşar University) - Also founded in 2002 by Yaşar Holding, the
initial building is located in the central Alsancak neighborhood, while the construction
of a campus in the neighboring district of Seferihisar, outside the metropolitan zone, is
under way.
 University of İzmir - Founded in 2007.
 University of Gediz - Founded in 2009.

There are ongoing plans to establish a eighth, and perhaps also a ninth university in İzmir.
The city is also home to well-rooted high-school establishments that are renowned across
Turkey, such as the American Collegiate Institute which was established in 1878.

İzmir is also home to the third U.S. Space Camp in the world, Space Camp Turkey.

[edit] Transportation
İzmir is served by national and international flights through the Adnan Menderes International
Airport and there is a modern rapid transit line running from the southwest to the northeast.
The city is trying to attract investors through its strategic location and its relatively new and
highly developed technological infrastructure in transportation, telecommunications and
energy.[25]
[edit] Connection with other cities and countries

The new İzmir Adnan Menderes International Airport

 Air: The Adnan Menderes International Airport is well served with connections to
Turkish and international destinations. Its new international terminal was opened in
September 2006 and the airport is set on its way for becoming one of the busiest hubs
in Turkey. The city-to-airport shuttle buses are operated by the private company Havaş
which run on two lines; the first connecting Karşıyaka (in the city's northern part) and
the second connecting Alsancak (in the south) with the airport. Trains remain a
comparatively slow alternative, while the metro line that will reach the airport is under
construction. The taxis are not cheap and can cost up to fifty U.S. dollars, depending
on the distance.

 Bus: A recently-built large bus terminal, the Otogar in the Altındağ suburb on the
outkirts of the city, has intercity buses to destinations across Turkey. It is quite easy to
reach the bus terminal, since bus companies' shuttle services pick up customers from
each of their branch offices scattered across the city at regular intervals, free of charge.

 Rail: The city has rail service from historic terminals in downtown (such as the
famous Alsancak Terminal (1858) which is the oldest train station in Turkey) to
Ankara in the east and Aydın in the south. An express train to Bandırma, to reach the
Sea of Marmara port city in four hours and to combine the journey with İDO's HSC
services from Bandırma to Istanbul is in service since February 2007.

Alsancak Train Station (1858) in İzmir, where the first railway line in the Ottoman Empire,
the İzmir–Aydın line, entered service in 1856.

[edit] Transportation within the city

Co-ordinated transport was introduced to İzmir in 1999, the first place in Turkey to apply the
lessons of integration. A body known as UKOME gives strategic direction to the Metro, the
ESHOT bus division, ferry operations, utilities and road developments. İzmir has an
integrated pre-pay ticket, the Kentkart (Citycard). The card is valid on metro (subway), buses,
ferries and certain other municipal facilities.

[edit] Bus

All major districts are covered by a dense municipal bus network under the name ESHOT.
The acronym stands for "E elektrik (electricity); S su (water); H havagazı (gas); O otobüs
(bus) and T troleybüs (trolleybus)." Electricity, water and gas are now supplied by separate
undertakings and the trolleybuses ceased to operate in 1992. However, the bus company has
inherited the original name. ESHOT operates about 1,500 buses with a staff of 2,700. It has
five garages at Karataş, Gümrük, Basmane, Yeşilyurt and Konak. A privately-owned
company, İzulaş, operates 400 buses from two garages, running services under contract for
ESHOT. These scheduled services are supplemented by the privately-owned minibus or
dolmuş services.

[edit] Urban ferries

İzmir Municipality's urban ferry services in the Gulf of İzmir.

Taken over by İzmir Metropolitan Municipality since 2000 and operated within the structure
of a private company (İzdeniz), İzmir's urban ferry services for passengers and vehicles are
very much a part of the life of the inhabitants of the city, which is located along the deep end
of a large gulf. 24 ferries shuttle between 8 quays (clockwise Bostanlı, Karşıyaka, Bayraklı,
Alsancak, Pasaport, Konak, Göztepe and Üçkuyular.) Special lines to points further out in the
gulf are also put in service during summer, transporting excursion or holiday makers. These
services are surprisingly cheap and it is not unusual to see natives or visitors taking a ferry
ride simply as a pastime.

[edit] Metro

Main article: İzmir Metro

İzmir has a subway network (rapid transit over the surface in parts) that is constantly being
extended with new stations being put in service. The network "İzmir Metrosu", consisting of
one line, starts from the Üçyol station in Hatay in the southern portion of the metropolitan
area and runs towards northeast to end in Bornova. The line is 11.6 km (7.2 mi) long.
İzmir Metro: Halkapınar Station
The stations are: 1) Üçyol, 2) Konak, 3) Çankaya, 4) Basmane, 5) Hilal, 6)
Halkapınar, 7) Stadyum, 8) Sanayi, 9) Bölge, 10) Bornova. An extension of the line
between Üçyol and Üçkuyular, which aims to serve the southern portion of the city
more efficiently, is currently under construction.
Basic fare on the Metro is TRL 1.25 but only TRL 0.95 if the Kentkart is used. About
12% of passengers pay cash and the rest use Kentkart, 35% at reduced rate and 53% at
standard rate. The Metro carries about 30 million passengers per year, and by the end
of September 2005, 160 million passengers had travelled since the opening of the
metro in May 2000.
A more ambitious venture that begun involves the construction of a new 80 km
(50 mi) line between the Aliağa district in the north, where an oil refinery and its port
are located, and the Menderes district in the south, in order to reach and serve the
Adnan Menderes International Airport. This new line will have a connection with the
existing one and was scheduled for completion by the autumn of 2008. The line
comprises 32 stations and the full ride between the two ends

History

The history of Izmir stretches back to around 3000 BC when the Trojans
founded the city in Tepekule in the northern suburb of Bayrakli. This was the
birthplace of Homer, who was thought to have lived there around the 8th
century BC. The Aeolians, the first settlers, were eventually taken over by the
Ionians, and then the Lydians destroyed the city around 600BC before a brief
recovery following Alexander the Great’s arrival in 334 BC.

After his death, Alexander’s generals followed his wishes and re-established
Smyrna on Mount Pagos in Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the
Romans. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD but later reconstructed
and became a major commercial port. After the Byzantines, the city had a
turbulent time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I
incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriving and
sophisticated city and a huge trading centre, despite its frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with Greek
Orthodox, Jews and Muslims, and many languages were spoken amongst locals and visiting traders.

Following World War I and the defeat of the Ottoman Empire, Greece was granted a mandate over Izmir and entered
the area, coming against the resistance of Ataturk’s nationalists. This resulted in a 3-day bloody battle, during which
70% of the city was burned to the ground and thousands were killed, and the beaten Greeks eventually left on the
waiting ships. Ataturk formally took Izmir on 9 September 1922, considered to be the day of victory in the War of
Independence and is a national holiday.

İzmir, historically Smyrna, is Turkey's third most populous city and the country's second
largest port city after Istanbul. It is located along the outlying waters of the Gulf of İzmir, by
the Aegean Sea. It is the seat of the İzmir Province, which has an area of 7350 km2. The city
of İzmir is composed of twelve metropolitan districts (Balçova, Bayraklı, Bornova, Buca,
Çiğli, Gaziemir, Güzelbahçe, Karabağlar, Karşıyaka, Konak, Menemen, Narlıdere, and
Torbalı), each with its o wn distinct features and temperament, but all headed by the Mayor of
İzmir. The total population of the province was 3,795,978 by the end of 2008.[1] The central
area of the city consisting of metropolitan districts has a total area of 855 km2 (330 sq mi),
and a population of 2,606,294.[2]

Rediscover Life

İzmir has almost 3,500 years of urban history, and possibly that much more of advanced
human settlement. Lying on an advantageous location at the head of its gulf running down in
a deep indentation midway on the western Anatolian coast, the city has been one of the
principal mercantile cities of the Mediterranean Sea for much of its history. Its port, privatized
in 2007,[3] is Turkey's first port for exports in terms of the freight handled and its free zone, a
Turkish-U.S. joint-venture established in 1990, is the leader among the twenty in Turkey. Its
workforce, and particularly its rising class of young professionals, concentrated either in the
city or in its immediate vicinity (such as in Manisa), and under either larger companies or
SMEs, affirm their name in an increasingly wider global scale and intensity.[4] İzmir is widely
regarded as one of the most progressive Turkish cities in terms of its values, lifestyle,
dynamism and gender roles. Politically, it is considered a stronghold of the Republican
People's Party.

Cafés along the historic Pasaport Quay (1877) at the port of İzmir.

The city hosts an international arts festival during June and July, and the İzmir International
Fair, one of the city's many fair and exhibition events centered around but not limited to
Kültürpark, is held in the beginning of September every year. İzmir is served by national and
international flights through the Adnan Menderes International Airport and there is a modern
metro line running from the southwest to the northeast. İzmir hosted the Mediterranean
Games in 1971 and the World University Games (Universiade) in 2005. It had a running bid
submitted to the BIE to host the Universal Expo 2015, in March, 2008, that was lost to Milan.
Modern İzmir also incorporates the nearby ancient cities of Ephesus, Pergamon, Sardis and
Klazomenai, and centers of international tourism such as Kuşadası, Çeşme, Mordoğan and
Foça.

Despite its heritage, İzmir has suffered until recently, as one author puts it, from "sketchy
understanding" in the eyes of outsiders. When the Ottomans took over İzmir in the 15th
century, they did not inherit compelling historical memories, unlike the two other keys of the
trade network, namely Istanbul and Aleppo. Its emergence as a major international port as of
the 17th century was largely a result of the attraction it exercised over foreigners, and the
city's European orientation.[5] Very different people found İzmir attractive over the ages and
the city has always been governed by fresh inspirations which stemmed from the location of
its center and the readiness of its citizens to adopt novelties and new projects.
[edit] Names and etymology

İzmir is a

“ princess with her


most beautiful
small hat. ”
—Victor Hugo[6]

The name of a locality called Ti-smurna is mentioned in some of the Level II tablets from the
Assyrian colony in Kültepe (first half of the 2nd millennium B.C.), with the prefix ti-
identifying a proper name, although it is not established with certainty that this name refers to
İzmir.[7]

The region of İzmir was situated on the southern fringes of the "Yortan culture" in Anatolia's
prehistory, the knowledge of which is almost entirely drawn from its cemeteries,[8] and in the
second half of the 2nd millennium B.C., in the western end of the extension of the yet largely
obscure Arzawa Kingdom, an offshoot and usually a dependency of the Hittites, who
themselves spread their direct rule as far as the coast during their Great Kingdom. That the
realm of the local Luwian ruler who legated the 13th century B.C. Kemalpaşa Karabel rock
carving at a distance of only 50 km (31 mi) from İzmir was called Mira may also leave
ground for association with the city's name.[9]

The newest rendering in Greek of the city's name we know is the Aeolic Greek Μύρρα
Mýrrha, corresponding to the later Ionian and Attic Σμύρνα (Smýrna) or Σμύρνη (Smýrnē),
both presumably descendants of a Proto-Greek form *Smúrnā. Some would see in the city's
name a reference to the name of an Amazon called Smyrna who would have seduced Theseus,
leading him to name the city in her honor.[10] Others link the name to the Myrrha commifera
shrub, a plant that produces the aromatic resin called myrrh and is indigenous to the Middle
East and northeastern Africa. The Romans took this name over as Smyrna which is the name
that's still used in English when referring to the city in pre-Turkish periods. The name İzmir
(Ottoman Turkish: ‫ إزمير‬İzmir) is the modern Turkish version of the same name. In Greek it is
Σμύρνη (Smýrni), Իզմիր (Izmir) in Armenian, Smirne in Italian, Esmirna in Spanish, Smyrne
in French, and Izmir (without the Turkish dotted İ) in Ladino. In English, the city was called
Smyrna until the Turkish Postal Service Law of 28 March 1930, upon which the name Izmir
was also adopted in foreign languages.[11]

Anda mungkin juga menyukai