The Effect of Purple Mangosteen Peel Extract On Photoaging : a Literature Review

Abstract

Skin aging can be caused by UV-Rays exposure that usually called photo aging. Mangosteen
peel known to have abundant antioxidant such as xanthones and anthocyanins that is believed
can delayed or reversed the aging process that cause by ultraviolet exposure. This review has
been done with literatures searching on PUBMED, SCHOLAR, or CHOCRANE to find an
available study about the topics. Study that we used are a literature review, review articles,
clinical and animal trial and also metanalisis.
Keyword: Mask, Mangosteen Peel, Photoaging

INTRODUCTION fibrous tissues. For instance, it is mostly

found in fibrous tissues such as tendons,
Skin aging is a type of process that
ligaments and skin. It is also heavily found
occurs because because of ultraviolet ray
in corneas, cartilage, bones, blood vessels,
exposure. The mechanism of skin aging is
the gut, intervertebral discs and the dentin in
quite complicated, its characterized by deep
teeth. In muscle tissue, it plays the role to
wrinkles, laxity, and roughness.1,2,3
act as a major component of the
COLLAGEN endomysium. Collagen comprises of one to
two percent of muscle tissue, and accounts
Collagen is the main structural
for 6% of the weight of strong, tendinous
protein in the extracellular space in the
muscles. Collagen is frequently created by
numerous connective tissues in animal
the fibroblast.4,5,6 The five most common
bodies. As the prime component of
types of collagen in human body are the
connective tissue, collagen is the highest
Type I collagen (skin, tendon, vascular
percentage of protein which is found in
ligature, organs), Type II (cartilage (main
mammals, making up from 25% to 35% of
collagenous component of cartilage), Type
the whole-body protein content. Depending
III (reticulate (main component of reticular
upon the degree of mineralization, collagen
fibers), Type IV (forms basal lamina, the
tissues may be rigid (bone), compliant
epithelium-secreted layer of the basement
(tendon), or have a gradient from rigid to
membrane) and Type V (cell surfaces, hair
compliant (cartilage). Collagen, in the form
and placenta).6,7
of elongated fibrils, is generally found in
Collagen has it roles in the aging process.
After the age of 20, one percent less
of collagen is produced in the dermis each
year. The collagen and elastin fibers become
thicker, more clumped, and looser, resulting
in inelastic and brittle skin and eventually in
wrinkling and sagging. In our twenties, the
skin’s exfoliation process decreases by 28%
as well, causing dead skin cells
accumulate and stick together for longer
periods of time. In our thirties, the transfer
of moisture from the dermis to the epidermis
is slowed and fat cells start to shrink. These
effects make the skin look dull and thin. In
our forties, collagen is no longer produced.
The collagen and elastin fibers break,
thicken, stiffen, clump together, and lose
their elasticity. This results in wrinkles and
aging lines. Finally, in our fifties, the skin
becomes dry and is easily bruised, damaged,
or broken because the sebaceous (oil) glands
have decreased in size. In women,
menopause causes a decrease in estrogen
levels, leaving the skin drier, thinner, more
sensitive, and less toned.4.5.6
MECHANISM OF PHOTOAGING
Although the fundamental
mechanisms are still poorly understood, a
growing body of evidence points toward the
involvement of multiple pathways in the
generation of aged skin. Recent data
obtained by expression-profiling studies and
studies of progeroid syndromes illustrate
that among the most important biological
processes involved in skin aging are
alterations in DNA repair and stability,
mitochondrial function, cell cycle and
apoptosis, ubiquitin-induced proteolysis, and
cellular metabolism. One of the major
to
factors that has been proposed to play an
exquisite role in the initiation of aging is the
physiological hormone decline occurring
with age. However, hormones at age-
specific levels may not only regulate age-
associated mechanisms but also regulate
tumor-suppressor pathways that influence
carcinogenesis.4,5
Understanding the molecular
mechanisms of aging may open new
strategies in dealing with the various
diseases accompanying aging, including
cancer. One of the cause of skin aging is
UV-B from sun exposure. UV exposure
would lead to the activation of receptors for
epidermal growth factor, IL-1, and TNF-α in
keratinocytes and fibroblasts, which then
activates signaling kinases throughout the
skin via an unknown mechanism. The
nuclear transcription factor activator protein,
AP-1, which controls the transcription of
matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), is
expressed and activated. MMP-1 is a major
metalloproteinases for collagen degradation.
This entire process is aided by the presence
of reactive oxygen species that inhibits
protein-tyrosine phosphatases via oxidation,
thereby resulting in the up-regulation of the
above-mentioned receptors. Another
transcription factor NF-κB, which is also
activated by UV light, also increases the
expression of MMP-9.6,7
MANGOSTEEN PEEL EXTRACT
Purple mangosteen is a form of tropical
evergreen tree believed to have originated in
the Sunda Islands and the Moluccas of
Indonesia. It grows mainly in Southeast
Asia, southwest India and other tropical
areas such as Puerto Rico and Florida, where
the tree has been introduced. The exocarp
(rind) of this fruit comprises of a unique
array of vitamins polyphenols, like tannin
and xanthones that protect the tree against
insect, plant viruses, fungi infestation and
even animal predation. The free radicals
attack the lipids and the membranes by
oxidation. The only way, this is prevented, is
when you have an antioxidant nearby to help
you out.8,9 Xanthones strengthen the cell
walls, help fight against loose radicals and
prevent infections from taking place. This
process in turn enhances the immune system
of the body and aids the metabolic activity.
An ointment made of this rind as its main
ingredient was used to cure various skin
rashes and even acne. Some also hypothesed
that an antioxidant on mangosteen can
protect skin collagen and prevent it from
aging.13
MANGOSTEEN EFFECT ON
COLLAGENATION
A study using 24 rats, 6-9 week old
female rat weighing 20-30 grams showed
significant differences in collagen thickness
in rat receiving UV-B exposure alone
compared with rat receiving topical
mangosteen peel extract (3.67 vs. 6.68; p =
0.000) and significant differences between
ethanol extract compared with mangosteen
peel (3.33 vs 6.77; p = 0.000). In addition to
the effect on the thickness of collagen,
mangosteen peel extract also affects the
density of collagen, where rat who obtain
mangosteen skin extract have the mean of
collagen thickness 3.89, larger than the rat
exposed only with UV-B (2.83) and given
ethanol (3.06) with p = 0.000.
Administration of topical mangosteen peel
extracts with concentrations of 50% and a
dose of 2mg / gr of rat weight can increase
the thickness and density of collagen in rats
exposed to UV-B.10
 Another study examining the similar
effect of mangosteen skin extract on skin
collagen performed with human samples
showed that with the administration of
tablets from mangosteen peel extract at a
dose of 100 mg for 4 weeks, there was
inhibition of pentosidine
Pentosidine is an advanced glycations end
products (AGE) which is produced from
collagen fiber glycation processes. The
presence of AGE accumulation in human
skin increases with collagen degradation
resulting in skin aging.
polyphenols contained in mangosteen peel
extract (Xanthones) are thought to reduce
AGE formation in invitro and invivo. In this
study it was also shown that after a month of
mangosteen skin extract
administration, there was an increase in skin
elasticity compared to before treatment
(0.663 vs 0.715; p <0.001), where skin
elasticity was determined by collagen levels
in the skin.11 A study showed that the use of
mangosteen peel extract
concentration can significantly change the
amount of MMP-1, which MMP-1 is one of
the compounds that contribute to the
degradation of collagen in
Mangosteen extract contains antioxidant
compounds, xanthones with 95% content, it
also contain anthocyanins.
activity in mangosteen peel extract is so
high that it can decrease ROS production
and inhibit further collagen destruction due
to UV-B exposure.12
Anthocyanin which also contained in
mangosteen peel extract is a powerful
formation. antioxidant because of its high reactivity as
an electron donor and has the ability to
stabilize unpaired electrons.13 Existing
literature, both anthocyanin and xanthones
have 3 mechanisms in protecting collagen
which will be degraded by free radical by
Antioxidant inhibiting phosphorylation of tyrosine kinase
which prevents the activation of MAP
kinase, JNK, and transcription of AP-1
complex, protection against TGF-β and
procollagen so that new collagen synthesis is
per-oral not inhibited, and inhibition of NF-KB
transcription so that MMP-8 activation is
inhibited. The combination of this
mechanism will inhibit cAMP (cyclic
Adenosine monophosphate) inhibiting
protein kinase A, which is one of the MMP
with 95% activators, in which MMP plays a role in
degrading collagen.10,13
Based on a pre-existing literature
study, studies using mangosteen peel gel
the skin. masks have never been done before.
Previous research done in Indonesia using
topical cream of mangosteen peel extract is
Antioxidant not gel mask. In addition, that study used a
sample of female rats while the sample in
this study was male rats.
CONCLUSION
Mangosteen peel extract (Garcinia
Mangostana L) can prevent the decrease in
the amount of dermal collagen of skin
exposed to UV-B rays.
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