TM

presents
How to Weave
with Cotton

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Project 4-SHAFT
AND 8-SHAFT

Double-Faced
1. 4-shaft warp color order
6 2 2 2 #27, Purple
176 43 20 82 31 #48, Dark Turk
182 ends (includes floating selvedges)

Twill Table Mats 2. 4-shaft draft

4
45x

3
1 2 3 4 5 6

3
4 4
3
K AT E L A N G E - M C K I B B E N 2 2 2
1 1 1
plain

H
weave
ow does a weaving project take form? single weft under the 3-thread floats. 20/2 pearl, #53, Scarab
While recovering from a knee injury Substitute your favorite colors for your #93, Lavender
#53, Scarab

Pattern A
this winter, I was weaving twill pot holders on personal use or as gifts. floating selvedge

my table loom (not able to treadle the floor
loom) using 3/2 cotton and Sugar 'n Cream.
Then I remembered a warp-faced twill I had
The 4-shaft version is a straight-twill Weave plan for mats:
- Weave 11/2" of plain weave
threading with one warp and two wefts: one using 20/2 pearl cotton for hem.
- Weave 3" of Pattern A
weaves 1/3 twill on the upper layer and the - Weave 1" of Pattern B

woven for a demo, warped by Robyn Spady.
Might this make good heat-resistant serving
mats, too? Yes, and let’s make large pot holders
for warm serving dishes. Thanks, Robyn, for
the inspiration.
Double-faced twills are a good way to
make thicker cloth. On eight shafts, the
other weaves 3/1 twill on the back. The
colors can be interchanged to create weft
stripes on each face. The 8-shaft version is a
straight twill threading with two warps, one
threaded on the odd shafts and the other on
the even shafts.
I hope these mats find a home on your
Pattern B
- Weave 2" of Pattern A
- Weave 5/8" of Pattern B
- Weave 1" of Pattern A
- Weave 3/8" of Pattern B
- Weave 11" of Pattern B
- Weave 11/2" of plain weave using 20/2 pearl cotton
for hem.
Weave plan for hot pads: Weave 12", alternating
patterns as you choose.
Where more than one mark appears in a row of
treadling, depress all treadles to make the shed.

warp is sett very close to create a warp-faced holiday or everyday table.

twill with two layers stitched together by a

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 4-SHAFT TABLE MATS
STRUCTURE
Double-faced twill.
EQUIPMENT
4-shaft loom, 13" weaving width; 15-
dent reed; 2 shuttles, 3 bobbins.
YARNS
Warp: 3/2 cotton (1,260 yd/lb, UKI),
#48 Dark Turk, 528 yd, #27 Purple,
18 yd. Weft: 3/2 cotton (1,260 yd/lb,
UKI), #93 Lavender and #53 Scarab,
310 yd each; 1 strand of 6-strand em-
broidery floss (4,000 yd/lb; DMC), 36
yd for hems.
(Yarns available as a kit from Cotton
Clouds.)
WARP LENGTH
182 ends 3 yd long (includes 2 ends
for floating selvedges; allows 4" for
take-up, 36" for loom waste).
SETTS
Warp: 15 epi (1/dent in a 15-dent
reed). Weft: Pattern: 26 ppi (13 ppi
per layer); plain weave: 15 ppi.
DIMENSIONS
Width in the reed: 12-4/15".
Woven length (measured under
tension on the loom): 68" (22" each
table mat; 12" each pot holder).
Finished size after washing: 2
hemmed mats 10" × 18", 2 pot hold-
ers 4½" × 5".

RESOURCES
Alderman, Sharon. Mastering Weave
Structures: Transforming Ideas into
Great Cloth. Loveland, Colorado:
Interweave, 2004, pp. 42–44.
—"Double-Faced Cloth: One Cloth, Two
Appearances." Handwoven. September
1982, pp. 61–63 and 95.
—"A Fresh Look at Double-Faced Twills."
Handwoven, September/October 1995,
pp 63–65.
4-SHAFT MATS
1
Wind 182 warp threads 3 yd long,
using the color sequence indicated in
the warp color order, Figure 1. Use
your preferred method to warp the
loom. Thread following the draft in
Figure 2. Weight the floating selvedg-
es behind the back beam of the loom.
3 Remove fabric from the loom. Ma-
chine zigzag to protect the ends, ma-
chine wash in warm water, tumble
Handwoven is
until almost dry, then press with a hot
iron.
the premiere
4 Cut pieces apart along scrap yarn. For
the table mats, turn hems under ½",
press, turn under ½" again, press,
resource for
and then handstitch hems. For the everyone
pot holders, fold pieces in half, one
with the Scarab side out and one with interested in
the Dark Turk side out. Machine stitch
2 sides with a ¼" seam, then fold the weaving, from
open edges to the outside ¼" and
beginners to
press. Turn the pieces inside out and
handstitch the open edge closed.
seasoned
professionals.

2 Wind a bobbin with 1 strand of

6-strand embroidery floss for the
hems and a bobbin for each of the
weft colors for the body of the mats.
Weave the first table mat according

SUBSCRIBE
to the weave plan in Figure 2, begin-
ning and ending with 1½" of plain
weave. Weave 2 picks of scrap yarn,

TODAY!
then weave a second hot mat follow-
ing the same weave plan. Weave 2
picks of scrap yarn, then weave 12"
alternating Pattern A and Pattern B as
you like for a pot holder, weave 2 handwovenmagazine.com
more picks, and weave another 12"
of pattern for a second pot holder.
Finish with a few picks of scrap yarn
to protect the edge.

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Project 8-SHAFT
“Pinwheels Redux” Napkins
CHRISTINA GARTON
W H Y C H O O S E O N E W H E N YO U C A N H AV E T H E M A L L ?
W hile working on the January/
February 2012 issue, I fell in love with
Rebecca Winter’s delightful star scarf and all
the alternate tie-ups that could be used to
create different variations of stars and
pinwheels. For my own interpretation, I wove
a set of napkins, each with a different design,
so I could try out each tie-up, because why
choose just one design when you can weave
them all? (That said, the yarn amounts given
here are for 6 napkins because that's what you
can weave with a cone of each color. )
I wove a header for this project using mint
1 Wind 408 warp threads 4 yd long follow-
ing the color order in the draft, Figure 1.
Use your preferred method to warp the
loom, and thread following Figure 1. Sley
2 ends per dent in a 12-dent reed, center-
ing for a weaving width of 17". Measure
2 floating selvedges in natural, sley them
through the reed, and weight them over
the back beam.
2
Weave 6 napkins, each 19" long, choos-
ing from the 8 tie-ups and following the
treadling and weft color order in Figure 1.
(If you choose to weave all 8 tie-ups, in-
crease yarn amounts by a third.) Weave 2
picks of scrap yarn between each napkin.
Begin and end each napkin with a stripe
of natural.
3
Remove fabric from the loom. Machine
zigzag the raw edges and on both sides of
the scrap yarn. Machine wash with warm
water, and machine dry on low heat with
a terry-cloth towel until almost dry. Press
with a warm iron.
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green 8/2 cotton for the weft, and the
triangular pattern it created looked so lovely
that I considered weaving another variation STRUCTURE
using a mint green weft for the whole Twill with color-and-weave
napkin. Consider playing with color to effects.
expand your design options even further.
EQUIPMENT
8-shaft loom, 18" weaving
RESOURCES width; 12-dent reed; 2 shut-
“Pinwheel Video.” YouTube video posted by tles.
3kidswaterford. http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=MZ7E6pxDBcY YARNS
Winter, Rebecca. “Reach for the Stars with Warp: 8/2 unmercerized cot-
Color and Weave.” Handwoven January/ ton (3,360 yd/lb; UKI), natu-
February 2012, pp. 48–50. ral, 840 yd; Denim, 800 yd.
Weft: 8/2 unmercerized cot-
ton, natural, 700 yd; Denim,
676 yd.
4 Cut the napkins apart. Turn the hems
under ½" twice, press again, and hem by
hand or machine.
WARP LENGTH
410 ends 4 yd long (includes
2 floating selvedges; allows
3" for take-up, 27" for loom
NOTES waste).
• Some interlacements are more difficult to SETTS
beat in than others, so pay attention to Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a
the picks per inch for each tie-up. 12-dent reed).
Weft: Varies with the tie-up:
• The yarn amounts given are for 6 nap- Napkin 1: 22 ppi; Napkin 2:
kins. If you would like to weave all 8 20 ppi; Napkins 3–6: 24 ppi.
variations, add 20" of warp for each ad-
ditional napkin. DIMENSIONS
Width in the reed: 17".
Woven length (measured
• If you prefer to weave towels instead of
under tension on the
napkins, weave 4 towels 28" long. Add
loom): 114" (19" for each
an extra 30" of warp for each additional
napkin).
towel.
Finished size after wash-
ing: six hemmed napkins,
14½" x 14¾".
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 1. Draft
Towel 1 tie-up 2
25x
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
8 8 8 8 8
7 7 7 7 7
6 6 6 6 6
5 5 5 5 5
4 4 4 4 4
3 3 3 3 3
2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1
plain weave
floating selvedge Denim natural scrap yarn floating selvedge Denim na

Towel 1 tie-up Towel

Towel 1 tie-up
2 tie-up
Towel 2 tie-up
Towel 3 tie-up TowelTowel 2 tie-up
4 tie-up Towel 3 tie-up Towel 4 tie-
25x
1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10
7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 14 25 36 4 7 58 69 7108 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5
8 8 8
8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 88 8 8 8 8 8 8
7

repeat
7 7 7
7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7
6 6 6 6
6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 66 6 6 6 66 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 25x 5 5Towel5 5 1 tie-up
55 55 5 5 Towel5 5 15tie-up 5 5 5 5
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 25x
4 4
4 1 24 34 4 5 64 7 8 94 10 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 83 38 8 383 8 3 8 8 8 83 3 3 8 3 3 3
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 272 2 7 27 7 72 2 27 7 27 27 7 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 161 16 1 1 6 61 6 16 16 1 16 6 61 1 1 1 1
plain weave 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
floating selvedge Denim natural scrap yarn 4 4 4 4 4 4 Towel46 4tie-up 4 4
Towel 5 tie-up Towel 6 tie-up 3 3 Towel
Towel 7 tie-up35 3tie-up 3 3 3 3 3 3
Towel 7 tie-
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 22 231242 5 3264 75 86 971082 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5
2 2 2 2 2
8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 1 1 1 18 8 8 8 8 8 8188 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
1 1 1 1 1
7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7
7 7 7 25x7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Towel 17 tie-up
7 7 7 7 Towel 7 17 tie-up
7
up Towel 4 tie-up 6 6 6 6 plain
6 weave 6 6
25x
6 6 6 plain
6 weave 6 6
6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
floating selvedge Denim natural scrap yarnDenim
6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 floating 5 selvedge
5 5 5 5 natural
55 5 55 scrap 5 yarn 5 58 8 8 58 85 5 5 8 8 58
8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 44 4 4 4 44 4 4 7 4 7 7 7 74 4 4 4 7 47 7
repeat

7 7 7 7 7 7 7 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 33 3 3 3 3 33 3 36 6 3 36 36 3 6 3 36 6 3 6
6 6 6 6 6 6 2 2 2 2 2 22 22 2 2 5 25 25 2 25 5 2 5 25 25 2
5 Towel 3 tie-up
Towel
5 2 tie-up
5 5 5 5
2 2
Towel
1 1 13
2 2 2
2 tie-up
1 1
2
Towel 4 tie-up
2 2
1 Towel
Towel
2 2
4 tie-up 1
1 1 31 tie-up
2
Towel
1 1 1 141 1tie-up1 1 1
2
1 4 1 1 14 14 4 41 4 1 1 14 14 4
4 4 4 4 4 1 24 34 4 5 64 7 8 4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 12 23 3 4 45 56 67 78 89 10 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Weaving
3 3 notes:
3 3 3 3 3 3 3
3 3 3 3 3 83 8 8 8 3 8 8 88 88 88 8 8 88 88 88 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Towel 8 tie-up Towel 8 tie-up

repeat
2 2 2 2 72 7 7 7 2 7 77 77 7 7 7

repeat
7 77 7 7 7 7 77 7 7 7 7 7 Yarn
1 1 amounts
1 1 given are
1 for 6 towels. 1 1 1 1 2
1 1 1 1 61 6 6 61 1 26 366 46 56 6 76 866 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 61 2 63 4 5 6 6 7 6 8
5 5 5 5 5 55 5 55 8 85 8 85 5 5 8 58 58 8 You can choose 6 of the 8plain draftsweave
or
5 5 55 5 5 5 5
5
floating selvedge Denim 5 5 5
natural
floating selvedgescrap yarn Denim natural
4 4 4 4 4 7 74 7 44 4 44 74 4 4 4 44 4 4 44 4 4 4 4 47 7 7 4 47 add 20" of warp for eachscrap yarn
additional
up Towel
3 3 7 tie-up napkin .
3 3 33 63 3 63 633 3 6 3 3 3 33 3 33 3 3 3 36 3 6 6 3 6
6 7 8 9 10 1 22 2 3 24 5 2 6 7 8 9 10 5 2 5 5
22 522 2 5 22 52 5 2 2 22 2 2 22 2 2 2 2 25
8 8 8 8 1 1 1 18 8 8 8 8 411 11 411 1 41 4 1 1 11 11 1 11 1 1 1 1 14 1 4 4 14
7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Towel 2 tie-up Towel
Towel 3 tie-up
2 tie-up Towel 3 4
3 tie-up
3 3 3 Weave
Towel 19"4oftie-up
chosen draft for each
3 3 3 3
6 6 6 6 6 6 6 21 2 3 4 25 2 6 2 7 8 1 21 23 43 4 5 5 6 7 6 87 98 10 1 2 32 4 5 6 72 82 92 10 towel.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
5 5 5 Towel
5 5 tie-up
5 5 5 Towel
1 1 16
Towel 51 tie-up
tie-up
8 8 8 8 TowelTowel 7 tie-up
6 8tie-up 8 8 8 8 8 Towel1781tie-up 81 81 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8

repeat
4 4 4 4 1 2 34 4 5 64 7 8 9 410 11 22 33 447 55 667 777 887 99 10 1 21 237 437 5 47 5 9 10
6 767 87 987 10 1 2 37 47 5 6 77 87 97 10 7 drafts 7 2 7 8, only
7 and
10 Note that on
3 3 3 3 3 8 3 83 8 8 3 8 6 8 86 88 886 886 88 6 6 6 86 8 86 8 6 6 8 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
Towel 18tie-up 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 treadles are5 needed because
floating selvedge Denim nat
2 2 2 2 7 72 72 2 7 7 7 2 5 77 775 25x
7 5 77 775 77 5 5 75 75 75 75 7 75 7 5 75 75 75 5 5 7 75 57 5 5 5 5
1 1 1 61 61 6 61 6 4 66 664 66 64 4 66 66 1 24 63 644 5
6 64 46 647 648 69 610 4 6 4 6 64 4 4 64 4 64 46 plain-weave
4 4 4 treadling 4 is on
4
Weaving notes:53 55 5 38 538 38 8 53 558 treadles 4 3and 5.
5 5 5 5 5 53 553 55 3 5 3 53 53 3 5 3 53 3 3 5 35 3 3 3
42 42 42 2 44 44 4 44 7 7 7 7 7 2 4
4 4 4 4 4 42 42 42 2 42 42 4 4 4 42 2 Towel 4 2 22tie-up4 24 2 2 2 2
Yarn
331 1 amounts
1 31 33 33 given
33 33are for 6 towels. 6 6 6 6 6 Towel 3 tie-up Towel 4 tie-
3 3 3 3 3 31 31 1 31 31 3 3 3 31 3 31 1 31 1 1 3 3 13 1 1 1 1 1
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 25 25 5 2 2 25 5 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5
You 2 2can 2choose 2 2 6 of the 2 8 drafts or2
4
2
4 4 4
2
4
2 2 2 2 2 2
8 8 81 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
Towel 5 tie-up
1 1 1 1 1
add
11 11 11 1 1
Towel 20"5oftie-up
warp for each
11
Towel 6 tie-up
1 1 1 1 1
additionalTowel 3 6 tie-up
3 Towel 53tie-up3
1 1
3
1 1 1 1
Weaving
Towel 6 notes:
7 tie-up 7 7 7 7 Towel
Weaving notes: 77tie-up
7 7 7 7 7
napkin
1 2 3 . 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 212 23
2 43 4 52 56 6 7 87 9 92 10
8 10 1 2 3 4 56 6 67 8 9 6 106 1 2 63 4 6 65 6 7 8 69 10 6 6 6
Towel 8 tie-up Towel 8 8tie-up 8 8 8 8 1 1 1 1 8 8 8 8 81 8 8 5 8 58 8given
Yarn amounts 58 are 588 for 6 towels. 5 5 5 58 8 8 8 58 5 5
Yarn amounts given are for4
6 towels.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3719"
Weave 47 of
57 chosen
6 77 87draft 7 for each 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 plain weave 7 47 7 4 47 7 4 77 7 7 7 4 47 47 47 4 4 4
6
You can
3 3
choose
3
63 of the 8 drafts orYou can 3 choose 3 6
3 of
3 the 38 drafts or 3 3
8floating
8 8 8selvedge Denim 6 6 6natural
8 8 8 8 6 6
scrap yarn 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 66 6 6 6 6 6
7 7 7 7
towel.
5 75 75 7 5 7 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 55 add5 20"
25 2of25warp5 2 for 5 55each
5 additional add 20" 25 2 of warp 5 2 for 2 5each 5 additional
2 2 2 2
6 6 6 6 64 6 64 4 64 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 napkin
4 14 14. 1 14 4 44 4 1 1. 14
napkin 1 4 14 1 1 1 1
5 5 5 5 Note 3 5 that 5 on 3 5drafts
3 3 5 23and 8, only 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 33 3 3 3 3 3
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 22
-up Towel4 3 4tie-up 4 4 842treadles
Towel 2 44 tie-up
2 are
42 2needed
4 2
because 2 2 2 Weave 19"2of52chosen 2
tie-updraft for each Weave 2 2
19"
2 2 2
of6chosen
tie-updraft
2
3 3 3 3 3 1 1 31 3 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Towel
1 1 11 1 Towel
1 1 1 1 for each Towel 7 tie-
6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2 2 2 2
plain-weave
1 2 3 4 5 6treadling 7 8 9 10 is on towel.1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Weaving
towel. 1 2 notes:
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Weaving
1 2 notes:
3 4 5
2 2 2 2
8 8 8
1 1 1 1
8 8 8 8 8 treadles
1 1 1 71
4 and 5.
8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
repeat

7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Towel 8 tie-up7 7 7 Towel 8 tie-up Note that7on7 drafts 7 72 and

7 7 8, only Yarn amounts 7 7 given 7 7 7for 6 towels.Yarn amounts 7 7 7 g
6 Note that on drafts 2 are and 8,6 only
6 6 6 6 6 6 1 2 63 4 65 6 7 68 6 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 58 58 8 58 5 8 treadles
5 5 5
are needed 5
because
5 8You can
treadles 5 choose
5are needed 56 of the 585drafts or You can
because 5
choose 5
8 8 8 8
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 7 47 47 4 7 4
7 7 7 7 plain-weave
4 treadling
4 4 4is on4 add 420" of4 warp
plain-weave for
4 4each
treadling is onadditional
4 add 20"
4 of warp 4
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 6 3 6 36 3 treadles 4 and 5. napkin 3 . 3 3 3 3 3 napkin .
2 2 2 2 2 2 25
6
2
6 6 6 6 3 3 3 3 3 treadles 4 and 5. 3 3
52 5 5 5 5 5 5 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 14 1 14 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
4 4 4 4 4 Weave 19" of chosen draft for each Weave 19" of chos
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
towel. towel.
-up Towel 7 tie-up
Towel 6 tie-up Towel2
1 1 1 1
2 2 2
7 tie-up Towel 8 tie-up
2
1 1 1 1
2 2 2
Towel 8 tie-up
6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
Note that on drafts 2 and 8, only Note that on dra
8 8 8 8
7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7
8 treadles are needed because 8 treadles are ne
6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 plain-weave treadling is on plain-weave trea
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 treadles 4 and 5. treadles 4 and 5.
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Weaving notes:
-up Yarn amounts given are for 6 towels.
6 7 8
You can choose 6 of the 8 drafts or
8 8 8
7 add 20" of warp for each additional
6 6 napkin .
5 5
4 Weave 19" of chosen draft for each
3
2 2 towel.
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Note that on drafts 2 and 8, only
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8 treadles PAGESbecause
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plain-weave treadling is on
treadles 4 and 5.
 Finishing Handwoven
Cotton Fabrics
SHARON ALDERMAN
I f I have said it once, I have probably
said it hundreds of times: “You are
not finished until the cloth has been
finished.” Except for tapestries, that are
blocked and steamed, finishing means
wet-finishing.
To understand what cotton needs in
the finishing process, it helps to think a
little about the fiber itself. Cotton is a
seed-hair fiber. It is attached to the
cotton seed, which is a bit smaller but
just as hard as an olive pit. This fiber
helps the plant to propagate because
wind catches it on the ground and
moves it along to another location. The
fiber itself is absorbent (although not as
absorbent as linen or wool) and holds
the water, probably helping the seed to
germinate. When the fiber has been
removed from the seeds in a process
called ginning, it may be combed, if it is
long enough, or carded to make the
yarns we use in weaving. The fiber itself
is smooth (no crimps or scales) so it is
easy to clean and may be boiled for
sterilization if necessary.
Although the sett and structure of the
cloth are important factors in shrinkage,
I generally plan for 10% to 15% loss in
length and width. If the sett is very
dense and the cloth is balanced (ends
per inch equal picks per inch), there will
be little shrinkage because there is no
place for the threads to move. Some
weave structures, such as waffle weave,
become three-dimensional when cut
from the loom, so after washing they are
far narrower than the width in the reed.
When I have made the first sample of
a cotton cloth, I handwash it in very hot
water with detergent and work the cloth
by squeezing it, pulling it crosswise,
lengthwise, and on the bias. This
working is essential for finishing lace
weaves because it makes the threads
shift to create the lacy open spaces in
the finished cloth.
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22_HWJF15_Alderman 1a_ao.indd 22
I pay attention to the color of the
water as I wash the first sample. If one
of the colors runs, I make a second
sample and wash with an agent such as
Synthrapol, which keeps the loose dye
molecules in the water, preventing them Wet finishing handwoven cloth makes a
dramatic difference in the end result.
from depositing on the cloth. I find that Samples by Laura Fry.
mill-end yarns are more likely to run, PHOTO BY ANITA OSTERHUAG
and red, dark green, or blue seem to be
more likely to run than other colors.
tracking, you have to handle the
Once I had a large cone of red that
wet-finishing differently. When it is
never stopped bleeding color. I washed
time to wash the cloth, fill a plastic
the sample several times, and it never
container with very hot water and a
finished running. In that case, it is
little liquid detergent to aid in the
better to get rid of the yarn. Mine was
wetting (add Synthrapol if there is any
welcomed by a group working with
doubt about the fastness of the colors),
children who were pretending to be
and simply set the cloth on the surface.
spiders making webs. Never pass yarn
Do not push it down! The whole point
that runs along to another weaver!
is to get it wet in hot water without
I use water as hot as my hands can
moving the cloth at all. It’s very hard to
stand because I want all of the shrinkage
resist pushing it down under the water,
to occur during the finishing and not
so I put the fabric onto the water the last
after the cloth has been made into
thing at night so that I won’t be
something where size matters. I like to
tempted! When the water has gone
use a dishwashing liquid. Just stir the
cold, drain it, and then the cloth can be
water after you put it in; don’t put the
machine washed without tracking. If
detergent in first and then spray water
some tracking does occur, it can be
on it to make lots of bubbles. You’ll just
removed by ironing the cloth while
have to rinse those bubbles out later.
stretching it. Before I learned the
Sometimes plain-weave cloth changes
method above, I always removed
while being washed, producing
tracking by ironing, but the wet-finish-
tracking. If the plying twist of the yarn
ing approach is much easier.
does not balance the initial twist in the
I always iron cotton cloth after the
spinning, or if the spin has not been set
initial washing. Ironing while the cloth
for a singles before use, the threads
is still damp ensures a smooth finish.
“squirm” making diagonal ridges in the
Even if the cloth will never be ironed
cloth. These ridges make the cloth less
again (as for kitchen towels), I iron it.
smooth, and if you intend to create a
That first ironing helps it look smoother
cloth with smooth color blending
for its entire lifetime of machine
between the warp and weft colors,
washing and drying.
tracking can be dismaying. There are
two choices with tracking: either love it RESOURCES
or prevent it from happening. If you Fry, Laura. Magic in the Water: Wet
love it, you can make it permanent by Finishing Handwovens. Prince
letting it be or by pressing (as opposed George, British Columbia, Canada:
Laura Fry Weaving Studio, 2002.
to ironing) to flatten the cloth and make
———Wet-Finishing for Weavers DVD.
it smoother to the touch. To avoid Loveland, Colorado: Interweave,
2014.
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