PORTFOLIO OF
RELEVANT WORKS
2018
1
LOOK & FIND
BR AND VALUES 4
THE MUSE 6
THE PROCESS 10
THE PRODUCT 19
THE TECHNICALS 28
NINE TEN 31
TARGE T MARKE T 35
TECHNICALS 37
RESEARCH 43
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3
GR A DUAT ION COLLECT IO N 3
fjord boy is a menswear label that draws from
the historical and traditional ways of treating
cloth and fiber.
B R AN D VAL UE S
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5
Me e t I r a . THE MUSE
WHO WE DESIGN FOR
gender: male
Ira is extremely attentive to personal
location: established career in new york city,
style and highly expressive in his dress.
moved to vancouver for the mountains
He is one who values slow craft in all
neighborhood: main st closer to downtown
forms, a careful collector who defines
living arrangement: lives with a partner
himself as ‘maximalist’, meaning one who
education: bachelor of fine arts &
celebrates the richness that comes with
masters degree
the coexistence of many things, colours,
occupation: established writer; can work any-
and ideas. He values the intrinsic and ex-
where and works from home
trinsic qualities of all he possesses, and
combined income: 145,000 - 185,000 CAD
has no problem wearing multiple prints
in an outfit.
ON BUYING
His work as an established journalist has
buying motivations: buys one of a kind piec-
taken him all over the world-- the Nor-
es as he feels a deeper connection to them.
dic countries, Africa, Japan, and South
he loves items of craft, especially in clothing,
America, to name some. His experiences
because it is a direct expression of who he is.
influence his perception of masculinity
he is always looking for slow-fashion and has
and how to be masculine, allowing him
problems finding it in a street-wear dominat-
to pursue a more fluid way of dress that
ed menswear market. as a result, he picks up
contrasts with hype culture and technical
extra pieces on his travels.
streetwear.
ON CULTURE
6
THE MUSE
TA R G E T M A R K E T B OA R D
7
THE MUSE
WHO WE DESIGN FOR
Ira is an idealist. Ever since he unleashed his creative abilities to the full in col- This season, Ira is:
lege, he has become even more of an idealist. To others, Ira may seem very calm,
reserved, and shy, but two minutes into a conversation with him they will find in - Taking weaving classes every two weeks for leisure
him a passion and genuinity that is magnetic. His gentleness and politeness has - Travelling to Utah for Sundance Film Festival for work
earned him as being known as a quirky gentleman. His outer appearance, smile - Visiting his parents more often in the suburbs
and style, atracts people to approach and befriend him. He is described by those - Reading international flash fiction
who encounter him as a humble, intelligent and stylish individual who leaves a - Switching coffee shop environments
magical imprint on everyone. - Hanging out on Commercial Drive more
- Trying vegan once a week
Ira is guided by his principles (rather than logic or practicality) in most aspects - Doing a run on the seawall twice a week
of his life, especially fashion choice. When faced with decisions, he will choose - Shopping online
according to morals, virtues, and beauty.
PERSONAL VALUES
Ira is a master at communication and self-expression, easily getting along with
others and with a tendency to speak in parables. His propensity towards beauty Humility: In everything he does, Ira maintains an attitude of hu-
and storytelling is evident in his style choices. mility. He is not quick to talk about the going-ons of his life, and
when he is with friends he keeps work talk to a minimum. His work,
His intuitive nature allows him to see things from an unconventional perspective. affluence, and experiences are no more important than anyone
This allows him to succeed in his career as an author, and also sets him apart else’s. It is with this attitude that he is able to live a life that is full
from other men in air and style. and rewarding.
Objects: Ira has always been a collector, ever since he was young.
He defies the minimalist lifestyle not because he is materialistic,
but because he finds genuine delight and has fine appreciation for
so many things. His objects are his treasures, and he chooses his
treasures for their story.
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9
THE PROCESS
FORECASTING
Natural / Imperfect
Themes reported by WGSN for Menswear AW18/19 embody natural tex-
tiles, vibrant protective fabrics, and rich motifs which include patchwork,
kilims, and embroidery.
History / Environment
There is a focus on remembering where we came from. In clothing, this is
expressed in the value of time-worn and heirloom garments.
10
THE PROCESS
DESIGN INFLUENCE
Japanese Boro
I first discovered Japanese boro through the Japanese label, Kapital, which I like to name as a fusion of
streetwear and classic Americana workwear. For a long time, Kapital has been renouned for mixing seem-
ingly “odd” styles and colours with traditional Japanese techniques and silhouettes. Their clothes are grun-
gy, and could even be dubbed distasteful, but it is their extreme ruggedness and vintage elements that give
the brand its place in luxury streetwear.
Boro is a traditional way of mending fabric that dates back to late nineteenth and early twentieth century in
rural Japan. At the time, cotton was a scarce, precious resource, and so when bed sheets or clothing started
to tear, it would always be mended through patchwork and sashiko stitching. Over time, there would appear
on the sheet or garment a rich mosaic of patches. Boro textiles were meant to be utilitarian before they
were beautiful. It is also important to remember that to some, the sight of boro textiles can signify poverty
or hard times. To others, it is a reminder of sweet simplicity and the beauty of generational, aged, art.
This traditional method has a new purpose in the modern world. The issue of textile waste in the global
fashion industry is prominent and continues to oppress natural environments. Designers and brands need
to find more creative ways to use that which has been left over, unused, and unwanted. Boro can be one of
those ways.
While boro in contemporary fashion consists of mostly vintage, I have decided to explore making my own
boro textiles, using fabric scraps and patches and mounting them by needle to muslin cloth. As a result, the
Retrieved from KAPITAL site on April 5, 2018.
product will actually be secure than the vintage sort because the patches of fabric used are newer. There
will also be more options for colour and colour themes, as vintage boro pieces, like that sold by Kapital, are
primarily indigo.
The quilts are known for its spontaneity and improvisation, and have gained the nickname of “My Way”
quilts. The designs are bold and utilitarian, often made from remnants of fabric, working clothes and dress-
es, and even feed sacks.
It was the thought of improvisation that resonated with the development of fjord boy. In order to be fully
commited to using upcycled materials, improvisation must be a constant part of the process. This will help
accomodate variations in texture, weight, stretch, colour, size, and age of the material. Aligning with fore-
Quilt by Annie Mae Young from
casted quilt-wear, surface design and artful construction of fabric can make upcycled styles more market-
able and accessible. Gee’s Bend (1965).
11
n- Japanese x Americana revisit ing jumpsuits?
no “franke overalls?? easy?
stein-ing” tasteful “ametora” ut ilitarian habits
cking?
colour-blo THE PROCESS
block p
gi l it y of ri
st ill loo nts
fra WORKING MOODBOARD
ab r i c vs. k fluid
Gee’s
f shape
or e d Bend
tail
stitching
patterns
il it a rian
ut ork
tch w
pa it ional contrast
tr a d
h ou ettes find a re
st itching
sil tu
what goes, goes
signa
rn
patte
Classic American
workwear influence
rn
mode ar
e
workw
an oath to never use unflattering?
anything new, a step flattering?
back to the time where
y?
d it ional magined
little to tra es rei
too
ett
silhou
nothing was wasted
all-over
boro
Gee’s
stitching Bend
patterns
COLOUR COLOUR
BODE NY t ime-worn niftydo @ COLOUR
softness gastown styles 12
THE PROCESS
FABRIC
ic?
too geometr
illusion of
landscape patchwork
s
tiny scraps?
too fluid?
our
depending on col
as
this doesn’t look
quilts
messy
quilts
quilts
quilt
SKETCHING PATTERNS
The commitment to use upcycled fabrics means that the design has to accomodate various
yardages of fabric. Small pieces of leftover fabrics can still be used, and even celebrated,
through strategic design and mapping of the fabric make-up.
This can be seen in the sketches above, where different proportions and construction pat-
terns are explored on paper, with influences from historical quilts.
13
designing w/out
knowing what
fabrics are out THE PROCESS
there to be upcycled (SOME) SKETCHES
t ing wit h
ing
experimen
fabric mix
understanding that
depending on what
upcycled goods I
find,t his will all look
al m o st final
different below: no concrete
sketches colour scheme
workwear styles 14
coming into play
THE PROCESS
PRELIMINARY LINE SHEET
SEMI-FINAL DESIGNS
On the left are the three primary looks that were considered for
THE SHOW 2018. The left and right became the basis of the outi-
fts that were actually produced, with changes in colour and fabric
construction style.
The final designs and line sheet show a capsule collection of only
nine styles compared to this original set of fifteen (next section).
Styles were eliminating by evaluating the practicality of each. For
example, the blue jumpsuit in the middle of the illustration was
removed because it would not be a suitable piece for my muse to
wear during on-site work.
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THE PROCESS
MAKING THE FABRIC
The process of making fabric inspired by the Japanese boro All materials used were leftover yardages or remnants,
technique: Upcycled textiles are collected and trimmed, mostly sourced from Our Social Fabric.
Scattered and secured onto muslin cloth, The entire process took 70+ hours for a person to do
and stitched down one by one. alone.
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FABRIC
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THE PRODUCT
LINE PLAN
COLLECTION 1 FALLWINTER 18
MODOC Top
BODEL Quilted Jacket SWP / 160
SWP / 390
SRP / 320
SRP / 780
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THE PRODUCT
FINAL FABRIC TECHNIQUES
Using only upcycled textiles, we honor the traditional and historical practice of
quilting and patchwork in its utilitarian form. This season, the three fabric construction techniques used are:
BLOCK MUSHROOM
Quadrilateral shapes of the same colour family meet to create Long strips increase vertical emphasis. Named after the underbelly
spontaneous lines. Each piece has to be numbered and labelled- of a mushroom. Some strips can be broken up depending on yard-
strategically. This fabric can be quilted or worn as a single layer. age available. This fabric can be quilted or worn as a single layer.
BORO
The traditional Japanese practice of mending using upcycled
patchwork and contrast stitching. This technique creates a fabric
that has a heavier weight, and so it will never be quilted.
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THE PRODUCT
STYLES
FABRIC
Mushroom Mosaic
WEAR
SWP / 670
SRP / 1,340
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THE PRODUCT
STYLES
MODOC LONG-SLEEVE
FABRIC
Block
WEAR
SWP / 160
SRP / 320
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THE PRODUCT
STYLES
FABRIC
Boro
WEAR
PRICE
SWP / 605
SRP / 1,210
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THE PRODUCT
STYLES
UNION TOP
FABRIC
Mushroom Mosaic
WEAR
PRICE
SWP / 202
SRP / 405
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THE PRODUCT
STYLES
FABRIC
Boro
WEAR
PRICE
SWP / 480
SRP / 960
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THE PRODUCT
STYLES
WICKER PANT
FABRIC
Block
WEAR
PRICE
SWP / 230
SRP / 460
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THE PRODUCT
STYLES
BODEL JACKET
FABRIC
Block
WEAR
PRICE
SWP / 390
SRP / 780
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THE TECHNICALS
SPEC & TECHNICALS:
LANGSTON BORO JACKET
COLLECTION 1 - FW18
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION TYPE
LANGSTON JACKET
Boro STYLE #: 1-F18-OB10
SAMPLE: M
Identification
SIZE RANGE: S-XL
FIT TYPE: SEMI-FITTED SN Topstitch
LINING PLEAT - 3CM
BACK FACING - 5CM WIDE
St
COLOUR WAYS Button 1”
LA
C1-Goldens C1-Heirloom SHOULDER SEAM: SN TOPSTITCH:
1” OVER F
PATCH POCKET
B
SWATCH
PLACEMENT CONTRAST FRONT VIEW
POCKET PLACEMENT:
2 1/2” ABOVE FINISHED HEM
TO BOTTOM EDGE OF POCKET BUTTONHOLES:
1 1/2” FROM SIDE SEAM KEYHOLE , 7/8”
POCKET DIMENSIONS:
6” WIDE, 7” LONG
FULLY LINED
BAGGED LINING BODY & SLV
CONTRAST *Cotton/Rayon/Poly Blend AT HEM
CB SEAM
TAPERS FIT
SWATCH
PLACEMENT
SWATCH
PLACEMENT
BACK VIEW
LIST OF REVISIONS
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THE TECHNICALS
FITTINGS:
COLLECTION 1 - FW18 SAMPLE: M LANGSTON BORO JACKET
LANGSTON JACKET SIZE RANGE: S-XL
STYLE #: 1-F18-OB10 FIT TYPE: SEMI-FITTED
FITTING 1: AUSTIN
DATE: FEB. 26/ 2018
FITTING 2: JULIAN
DATE: MAR. 8/ 2018
FIT MODELS:
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austin @austinottone
julian @jbgear
THE TECHNICALS
SPEC & MEASUREMENTS
COLLECTION 1 - FW18 SAMPLE: M LANGSTON BORO JACKET
LANGSTON JACKET SIZE RANGE: S-XL
STYLE #: 1-F18-OB10 FIT TYPE: SEMI-FITTED
MEASUREMENTS
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DESIGN & PRODUCTION MODELS
iris chau @cafesesame hatago marlin priebe @average_africanadian
iristtchau@gmail.com michael gnansounou @michael_gnansounou_
jake sabel @sabeljake
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THE SHOW 2018 APRIL 19/20
WILSON SCHOOL OF DESIGN, DESIGN WEEK
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P R O DU C T DE V E LOPMEN T PR OJECT N IN E T EN
nine ten.
In my third year, I worked in a team of four to create, brand,
design, and develop a hypothetical lifestyle brand: nine ten.
The purpose of the semester-long project was to identify
a potential market and design a collection using extensive
research and forecasting methods.
mission statement
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P R O DU C T DE VE LOPMEN T PR OJECT N IN E T EN
the vision.
NINE TEN TO TWENTY TWO
OUR VISION FOR 2022
There’s no such thing as too ambitious. As goal setters by nature, we focus our
gaze on our unique vision and dare to change our world with it. We call our
vision Nine Ten to Twenty Two because we are determined to achieve it within five
years.
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P R O DU C T DE V E LO P ME N T PR OJECT TA RGE T MA RK E T
To Ronan, there are only two truths to live by: you are who you make your-
self to be, and sweaty clothes are a sign of renewal and refreshment. Ever
since his teenage years, Ronan has been obsessed with upping his per-
sonal best. His goal-setting spirit is a result of being independent for a
majority of his life, learning that strength does not only come externally
but can be built from within. He is a man known by others for his determi-
nation, tenacity, and magnetic collectedness.
PHILOSOPHY
Running is his form of meditation. Sun or rain, the act of saying ‘yes’ in the
morning to a sweaty run brings a profound energy to Ronan that sets the
mood for the day. This ritual helps him to manage stress, build meaningful
relationships, and set new goals.
DEMOGRAPHICS
Age: 30-45
Occupation: Personal Holistic Trainer at
Prestigious Fitness Club
“First there came the action Education: Bachelors in Kinesiology
Income: 80,000 - 110,000 CAD
of running, and accompany- Lives: Kitsilano/West Vancouver, alone or with his partner
ing it there was this entity Pets: Drew, his pet dog (boxer)
Core Sport: Running & Weight Training
known as me. I run; there- Hobbies: Reading contemporary literature, adventure photography, yoga,
fore I am.” old films
Body Type: Lean and muscular/ Mesamorph/Medium sized joints and
- haruki murakami bones, broad shoulders, chest deominates over abdominalefficient me-
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tabolism (upside down triangle)
Height: 5’10
Weight: 75kg
ON FASHION INFLUENCERS
Ronan is one to gear up. In whatever he pursues, he will spend the time Reading is an integral part of Ronan’s lifestyle. They help him maintain his
going out in search for the tools he needs to reach his goals. He won’t grasp on what’s happening in the world and in his community. Constantly
settle for the base level-- he’ll seek advice from friends or neighbours to curious, Ronan never loses his interest in diverse cultures, and looks to
know where he can acquire the best. His purchases are never short-term books and magazines to shape his thoughts and views on them.
commitments. Instead, he treasures his items and respects them because
they act as his allies. MAGAZINES -
Time Magazine
Whether it’s buying certified organic or a pair of articulated socks, Ronan National Geographic
knows that his purchases affect someone someone or something some- The Atlantic
where in the world. He considers himself a member of a global commu-
nity, and his purchase decisions are driven by his groundedness in that BLOGS -
identity. It’s not easy to shop this way, but he is constantly influenced and Carryology (www.carryology.com)
encouraged by mentors, trainers, and athletes. Vulture (www.vulture.com)
Canadian Running (www.runningmagazine.ca)
He is also extremely loyal. He’s a familiar face to the Believe in Running (www.believeintherun.com)
associates at his favourite shops and the waiters at his favourite brunch
spot. BOOKS -
Haruki Murakami, What I Talk About When I Talk About Running.
Joseph Heller, Catch 22.
PREFERENCES
My Struggle, Karl Ove Knausgard
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P R O DU C T DE V E LO P MEN T PR OJECT T ECHN ICA LS
FIRST DELIVERY
ZEUS CREWNECK TEE OLYMPIA CREWNECK LS ATHENS CLASSIC TANK VERSUS HENLEY
MI-TS150 MI-TK67 MI-TK140 MI-T110
breathable mesh nine life ™ nine life ™ modal stretch knit
WSP: $27.20 SRP: $68 WSP: $33.60 SRP: $84 WSP: $25.60 SRP: $64 WSP: $39.20 SRP: $98 Clyde Running Tigh
9-K Lined Shorts
Agathe ss henley
Agathe ss henley
Agathe ss henley
ght
Agathe ss henley
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P R O DU C T DE V E LO P MEN T PR OJECT T ECHN ICA LS
BASIC STYLE CARDS
P R E L I M I N A RY S TAG E
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P R O DU C T DE VE LO P MEN T PR OJECT T ECHN ICA LS
BASIC STYLE CARDS
P R E L I M I N A RY S TAG E
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P R O DU C T DE VE LOPMEN T PR OJECT RES EA RCH
FORECASTING & RESEARCH
SAMPLE
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P R O DU C T DE V E LO PMEN T PR OJECT RES EA RCH
FORECASTING & RESEARCH
SAMPLE
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P R O DU C T DE VE LOPMEN T PR OJECT RES EA RCH
FORECASTING & RESEARCH
SAMPLE
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THANK YOU
IRIS CHAU
telephone 604-767-7740
email: iristtchau@gmail.com
IRIS CHAU
PORTFOLIO OF
RELEVANT WORKS
2018
47