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THE

GENTLEMAN’S
GUIDE
Determine Head Shape
Modern Hair Cut
and Hair Products
HAIR
styles
Pompadour
Voluminous and dramatic, the pompadour
hairstyle is longest at the front of the head
to give the “pump” and gradually shortens
towards the back of the head

HOW TO STYLE POMPADOUR

Clean, damp hair that is at least 2 to 3 inches long will


give you the best base when applying a hair styling
product. Be sure to evenly distribute the product into all
of your hair in the front and back.

Then brush your hair up and back with a comb, gently


blow drying into a pomp. Comb your hair from the roots
up to maximize the volume and hold the pomade.
COMB
OVER
many barbers refuse to call it a “comb over” and instead
refer it to as a “side part”, the hairstyles consists of hair
combed to one side with a part. the primary difference
between the classic side part and comb over is the
swept look, and the sometimes angular brush back of
the hair

HOW TO STYLE A COMB OVER

To get a comb over, we recommend at least 2 to 4 inches


of hair on top and a fade or undercut on the sides

to style the comb over, start with a high-quality pomade


and apply it to your towel-dried, slightly damp hair. after
thoroughly working in the product, comb or brush your
hair to one side, noting the natural part in your hair if the
side part style is desired. for extra styling, guys can brush
their hair back diagonally or create some lift and volume in
the process
fRINGE
The angular fringe hairstyle is a style where the sides are
kept relatively short and the top is longer. The hallmark
feature of the fringe is that the hair in the front (your
bangs) are styled to hang over the forehead. In the case
of the angular fringe, hair is styled at an angle.

HOW TO STYLE A FRINGE

The fringe is a short to medium-length hairstyle depending


depending on your preference. Therefore, we recommend
anywhere from 2 to 4 inches in length, especially at the
front, so there’s so hair on top to work with. Pull the hair
forwart to create the fringe. As for the sides, a fade, under-
cut, taper or longer hair works fine as long as it is noticeably
shorter than the hair on top.
spiky
hair
the spiky hairstyle is pretty self-explanatory and it is
usually accompanied by short sides such as a fade,
undercut or taper haircut. the long hair on top is then
spiked up into “points”, which can be thick, thin, messy,
neat, textured, or any combination of the above

HOW TO STYLE SPIKY HAIR

for the best spiky hairstyle, you’ll want buzzed sides and at
least 1 to 3 inches on top. In some cases, it makes sense to
have the bangs in front be the longest length.

to style a spiky haircut, a high-quality hair product is


required. we recommend a medium to strong-hold
pomade or putty with low to matte shine. for amore natural
look, you’ll want to run your fingers through your hair,
applying your styling product while simultaneously lifting
and spiking your hair. after you’ve created the desired
effect, consider blow-drying your hair in place for a firmer
hold
fade
the fade haircut, along with the undercut, has become
extremely popular with the emergence of the “short
sides, long top” modern men’s hair craze.

HOW TO STYLE SPIKY HAIR

the fade refers to the way you cut the sides and back of
your hair. as the name suggests, a fade gradually shortens
(or “fades”) in length with your longest hair at the top and
shortest hair at the bottom

the haircut is exclusively cut using clippers and comes in a


variety of styles - the most popular of which are the high,
mid, low and skin/bald fades. the decision to get a low vs.
mid vs. high fade is a personal choice and depends on
where you cant the cut to start. similarly, the skin or bald
fade determindes how short the faded hair is supposed to
get.
undercut
Instead of the gradual, faded transition to a guy’s long
hair on top. The key feature of the undercut is the sharp
contrast between shaved sides and the volumnious top.

HOW TO STYLE AN UNDERCUT


Because the undercut has many variations, including the
disconnected and slicked back undercut, styling each
requires a different approach. Generally, you’ll want buzzed
sides and at least 2 inches of length on top.

For the hair on top, you’ll want to apply pomade, wax or


putty and distribute evenly.

Then, depending on which hairstyle you want, you can slick


all your hair back with a comb (slicked back), brush up and
back simultaneously (pompadour), pull your hair forward
for a fringe, comb to the side (comb over or side sweep).
Etc.
quiff
the quiff is typically styled ith some height and volume,
and finished with a messy brushed back or combed over
texture. like other thick, voluminous hairstyles such as
the pompadur and disconnected undercut, the quiff is
memorable due to its high-contrast style

HOW TO STYLE AN QUIFF


to style a classic quiff, you will need at least 3 to 5 inches of
hair on the top of the head. if you have short hair, you may
need to experiment to see if you can pull it off, but longer
hair is obviously ideal.

apply some styling product in your hair to achieve the


proper height and texture
faux
hawk
the faux hawk (fohawk) mimics a mohawk, but avoids
the shaved sides. because the name literally means
“fake hawk”, the fohawk hairstyle has short sides with
long hair on top that is styled towards the center of the
head.

HOW TO STYLE A FAUX HAWK


because the faux hawk only emulates a real mohawk, men
are able to get the style with a number of different haircuts.
as long as you have at least 2 inches of hair on your head,
then you can style your cut to create a fohawk.

start after a shower and leave hair slightly damp. apply a


hair styling product and evenly distribute for a textured
look. use your fingers or a brush to spike your hair upwards
until it stands on its own. finally, to achieve the mohawk
effect, start push your hair together towards the center. the
middle of your head should generally have the hair with the
most volume and height
brushed
up
the brushed up hairstyle requires hair to be styled
straight up, similar to spiked hair. the difference is that
the style doesn’t need your hair to be pointed and actu-
ally emphasizes a more textures, voluminous hairstyle.
on the other hand, the brushed back style has hair that
is pushed backwards, but not slicked. generally, the
brush back will stull have some volume and height to
avoid the slicked back look

HOW TO STYLE BRUSHED BACK/UP


to style a brushed up haircut, you’ll need to leave at least 2
to 4 inches of hair at the top. because long hair may not
stay up throughout the day, you’ll have to experiment with
the best styling product and length for your hair type.

start by towel-drying your hair after a shower. then apply


enough pomade, wax or putty to coat all your hair. as you
spread the styling product, use a brus or comb to lift your
hair up. the trick is to style your brush up as you would a
spiky hairstyle, but keep the hair messy and textures to
prevent clumping. for a more natural and tousled look, run
your fingers through your hair. if necessary, blow dry to
create volume and disheveled style.
sl ick
back
slicked back hair is a style achieved with short faded or
undercut sides with long hair on top. the slicked back
hairstyle will require you to use a styling product, such
as pomade, to “slick back” all your hair from the front to
the back.

HOW TO STYLE SLICKED BACK HAIR


to get a slicked back hairstyle, guys must have short sides
and long hair on top. ideally, we recommend a high skin
fade and at least 2 to 3 inches on top for a stronger
contrasting look. the longer and thicker your hair on top,
the more versatile and outgoing the hairstyle.
to style the slick back, start with fresh, slightly damp hair
that’s been towel-dried after a shower. work some pomade
evenly into your hair. now, depending on the type of slick
back you want, you can use a comb, brush or your fingers.

for a natural, textures look, run your hands through your


hair from front to back. otherwise, for a more neat, greas-
er-like hairstyle, comb you hair right above the forehead all
the way back. to keep your hair in place, blow dry your hair
afterwards
HAIR
products
THE

TECHNIQUES

1Most products are to be applied with damp hair to be able to


work the product into the hair and style it. The product will
generally appear much different once dry.

2With most products, hair spray can be lightly used to lock in the
style or hold fly-aways in place.

3 After using products, a blow dryer can be used but on too high
of a setting it can disrupt the desired style.

4To achieve a dry, messy but styled look, certain products (espe-
cially waxes) can be applied to dry hair. That being said, it’s
much more difficult to work into the hair.

5Additionally, don’t limit yourself to 1 product. To achieve the


desired result, you may need a few different products. Say you
want soft clumped together hair but you want the front to stand
up. You might use a wax on all of your hair and a fiber only on

6
Keep a few different products in your arsenal to suit your mood
and style for the day.
POMADE
VISUAL
Soft, clear/murky, various color
(Genercalear to slight yellow)

CONTAINER
Jar

TEXTURE
Thick, goopy, can be putty like

FINISH RESULT
Very soft, flexible hold, shiny (some produce
A matte finish), doesn’t create debris if interrupted
(Touched), doesn’t breakdown (can take abuse)

CHARACTERISTICS
Soft hold that is still flexible, generally not used
For standing vertically, clumps hair, varies with wet
/dry application

APPLICATION TECHNIQUE
Take required amount from jar and place in palm of
Hand, rub until smoothed out (closer to a firm), pat
Through damp hair
VISUAL
Some waxes are very hard like a candle,
others are softer, clear/murky, various colors
(Generally a clear to slight yellow)

CONTAINER
Jar

TEXTURE
Stiff, slippery (think bees wax or lip balm)

FINISH
Soft, flexible, matte (generally not shiny),
Doesn’t create debris if interrupted (touched),
Tends not to breakdown (can take abuse)

CHARACTERISTICS
Soft hold that is still flexible, generally not used
RESULT For standing vertically, clumps hair, varies with
Wet/dry application

APPLICATION TECHNIQUE
Take required amount from jar and place in palm
Of hand, rub until smoothed out (closer to firm),
Pat through damp or dry hair (depending on desired result)
using finger tips to pull through areas for desired clumping
And directional clumps

WAX
HAIR
GEL
VISUAL
Goopy, liquid, clear

CONTAINER
bottle

TEXTURE RESULT
goopy, liquid

FINISH
hard,brittle, shiny, can create debris
if interrupted (touched), breaks down
easily

CHARACTERISTICS
run throughout damp hair

APPLICATION TECHNIQUE
strong hold, generally not good for
standing vertically (due to lack of initial
thickness of product), tends not to clump hair
head
shapes
OVAL 1. Characterized by broad
forehead and rounded

HEAD jaw and chin.


2. Allows variety of hair-
styles with different
shapes and lengths

SHAPE because of the balanced


proportions.
3. Recommended hair-
cuts:

Pushed back long, side


parted short,
fringe,undercut
SQUARE
HEAD SHAPE
1. Square proportions with straight sides and wide
jaw.
2. Short, tight, sharp and masculine haircut goes well
with this type.
3. Recommended haircuts

Undercut, slicked back, crew cut, faux hawk


ROUND
HEAD SHAPE
1. This type of face has rounder proportions with the
face almost as wide as tall.
2. Choose haircuts with a bit of a length and volume
on the top to add some height to the face.
3. Avoid hair coming onto the face as it will make it
look rounder.
4, recommended haircuts:

Undercut, faux hawk with shorter sides, quiff and


fringe up.
TRIANGULAR
HEAD SHAPE
1. These faces have narrow forehead and wide jaw.
2. Opt for haircuts that add volume and width to the
forehead, avoid to short on the sides.
3. Recommended haircuts:

Fringe up, side fringe


DIAMOND
HEAD SHAPE
1. These type of faces have narrow chin and forehead but
prominent cheekbones.
2. Longer hair generally go well with the face type.
3. Alternatively you can add volume by going for a fringe
or layered cut. Avoid getting sides to tights
4. Recommended haircuts:

Long hair pushed back, quiff, faux hawk, fringe


HEART
1. Heart shaped faces are
wider at the forehead with
HEAD
narrow pointed chin.
2. Generaly longer hairstyle
is well suited as short hair
will only accentuate the
SHAPE
wider forehead.
3. Recommended haircuts:

Pushed back, fringe, under-


cut
OBLONG
HEAD SHAPE
1. This type has a longer chin and gives an illusion of a
narrow face.
2. Allow the hair to fall onto the face to reduce the
appereance of a longer face.
3. Keep the shape well balanced with neither too
short on the sides nor too long on the top.
4. Recommended haircuts: