Instructions for Vinyl Ester Butt Weld Kits
INTRODUCTION
Read these instructions completely and follow all of the
procedures very carefully. Please contact your local NOV Fiber
Glass Systems authorized distributor with questions.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
The resin, adhesive and catalyst are highly flammable! For
personal safety, isolate the work area from any source of open
flames. The fumes from these materials are also flammable
and can travel or build up in improperly ventilated areas.
Warning: The catalyst contains methyl ethyl ketone peroxide
(MEKP). MEKP is a strong oxidizing agent. It is critical proper
safety measures are observed when using products containing
MEKP.
Wear chemical splash goggles for eye protection when using
the resin, adhesive or catalyst. If eye contact should occur,
flush immediately with water and call your physician.
Wear impermeable gloves to avoid direct skin contact with the
resin, adhesive and catalyst. If direct contact should occur,
wash immediately with soap and water.
Never cover a container of mixed resin, catalyst or adhesive.
Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are available on request.
Contents of Butt Weld Kit:
The contents of the Butt Weld Kit
varies according to the diameter and
pressure ratings of the pipe.
STORAGE OF VE BUTT WELD KITS
Do not store Butt Weld Kit resin above 90°F. The shelf life of
the Butt Weld Kit is dependent on storage temperature, see
chart on page 4 for specific recommendations. Storing resin
at temperatures below 40°F is recommended.
If refrigerated, allow the resin to warm slowly to room
temperature for several hours prior to usage. DO NOT
REFRIGERATE THE FIBERGLASS as condensate may wet
the glass and inhibit the bond of the resin. The fiberglass must
be stored in a clean dry place.
BUTT WELD ENVIRONMENT
Surfaces to be butt welded must be thoroughly sanded, clean,
dry, oil-free and in the correct temperature range to ensure a
proper bond.
Butt weld procedures are based on temperature ranges of 60°F
to 90°F. For butt welds where conditions exceed these ranges,
follow the Cold or Hot Weather Installation Instructions. The
recommended temperature limits of the resin, adhesive and
surfaces to be bonded must be maintained to assure proper
cure of the joints. All bonding surfaces and materials must
remain completely dry and at temperatures above 60°F.
Note: Air temperature is not the only factor affecting cure
times.
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Example: When the air temperature is 60°F and a pipe is
exposed to direct sunlight, surface temperature of the pipe
may approach 100°F of higher. Conversely, at 60°F, a pipe
exposed to a cold wind and no sunlight will affect adhesives
as though conditions were colder.
BONDING ENVIRONMENT
Hot Weather Information
• A cool area is recommended for long-term storage of
resin and adhesive kits.
• When field temperatures exceeds 32°C (90°F), store
adhesive kits in a “bagged ice” cooled chest. Remove
resin kits just prior to use.
• Protect joints from direct sunlight to minimize heating of
material and ultraviolet exposure.
Cold Weather Information
• A warm area is recommended for long-term storage of
adhesive. Storage temperatures between 70-80°F are
ideal.
• When the field temperature is below 40°F, a heated work
shelter is recommended.
• When the field temperature is below 70°F, warm the bond
surfaces with a heat blanket, propane torch or another
clean burning heat source. The surfaces should be warm
to the touch but not hot. If the bond surface is too hot
when resin is applied, it will set up prematurely. A bonder
should be able to comfortably place the back of their hand
on the bond surface. A torch should be used only to warm
the bonding surface, not to force cure a joint.
• All bonded joints should be heat cured with electric heating
collars.
Note: When temperatures fall below 32°F, it is recommended
that all joints (when possible) be made in a portable, heated
work space. The use of a portable kerosene heater (torpedo
style) is also recommended during extreme cold spells to help
maintain ambient temperature inside the pipe.
SITE EQUIPMENT
Each Butt Weld Kit contains the correct amount of materials for
the size of joint specified in the kit. Additionally, the following
items should be available:
1. Clean, dry rags or paper towels
2. Impermeable gloves
3. Chemical splash goggles
4. Drum, or disc sander with 36-60 grit abrasive. A 30-60 grit
Emery cloth may be used for hand sanding. Do not use
flapper wheels or belt sanders.
5. Layout table for fiberglass
6. Extra cardboard, heavy paper, or aluminum foil to use as
a cover for the layout table.
7. Space heater, heat gun, or heat blanket may be required.
SPECIAL HANDLING OF LARGE DIAMETER PIPE
It is essential to use canvas straps or padded slings rather
than chains or wire rope to avoid point loading the pipe. A
cherry picker with a spreader bar is ideal. Wood blocks (skids)
6” to 12” thick may be required to support the pipe run and the
length being joined. Several thinner boards such as 1”x 4” can
be used for small height adjustments. Remove all blocks from
around the pipe after fabrication is completed.
SEALING AND SECURING THE PIPE ENDS
Caution: Follow Safety Precautions on page 1.
Coat the cut ends of the pipe and/or fittings with catalyzed
resin or Weldfast CL-200 Adhesive before joining the ends.
Mix Weldfast CL-200 per the instructions in the Weldfast Kit.
Sealing the pipe ends protects the fiberglass reinforcement
from chemical attack.

Tools for Cutting Pipe HOT PATCHES

Pipe should be at least 55°F before cutting and may be cut Hot patches are used to prevent joint
with several acceptable tools, including: movement during the Field Weld
1. Circular power saw with an aluminum oxide abrasive Procedure and are small pieces
blade, a grit edged carbide blade or a diamond blade. of fab mat, approximately 4”x 6”,
Do not use toothed blades as they may damage the pipe included in the butt weld kit. Two (2)
corrosion barrier. patches should be used on pipe up
2. Band saw with 16-22 teeth per inch at speeds of 200’ to to 20” diameter and three (3) patches
600’ per minute. on all pipe larger than 20”. Only a
3. Saber saw with carbide, grit edged blade. small amount of resin is required to
apply hot patches. Mix one pint of
resin with 12 ml of catalyst. Saturate
Steps for Cutting Pipe the patches with catalyzed resin and
1. Measure the pipe, allowing for apply to the piping with the mat side
fitting dimensions. to the pipe.
2. Scribe a cutting guide around the
pipe to ensure a perpendicular Allow the hot patches to harden
cut for proper fit. before applying joint filler. Heat may
3. Hold the pipe firmly. If chain vises be applied it accelerate hardening of
or other mechanical holding the catalyzed resin.
devices are used, care should
be taken to prevent crushing or JOINT FILLER
point loading the pipe. Weldfast CL-200 adhesive is used to fill gaps and voids caused
4. Saw the pipe as smoothly as by uneven saw cuts and differences in pipe outside diameters.
possible. Coarse sawing with the
wrong tool can result in damage Mix according to the instructions provided in the weldfast kit.
to the liner of the pipe. Apply enough catalyzed adhesive to fill all of the gaps and
provide smooth transitions where pipes join. Once the filler
SURFACE END PREPARATION is gelled, heat cure the filled joint with an electric heat blanket
Note: It is essential for good fabrication that pipe and fitting for a minimum of 20 minutes to ensure complete curing of
surfaces be sanded, clean, dry and free of oil, grease and the CL-200 then sand the joining surfaces before applying
solvent contamination. the butt weld resin and glass. It is important on dissimilar or
1. Prepare both ends of the pipe, mismatched surfaces that the joint filler is used to make a
or pipe and fittings to be joined smooth transition across the mismatch. This transition should
together by sand the bonding be as short as possible.
surfaces with 36 to 60 grit
abrasive (See Site Equipment,
page 1). The sanded area should
be complete roughened, gloss
free and extend ½” beyond the
widest layer of fiberglass to be
applied.
2. Never sand more than two (2) hours prior to making the
joint.
3. Wipe the sanded area with a clean, dry lint-free cloth,
and avoid touching the surfaces with bare hands or dirty
gloves. MIXING THE STANDARD LAY-UP RESIN
4. Do not use solvents. Caution: Follow Safety Precautions on page 1.

INTERIOR SURFACE PREPARATION
For 24” and larger piping, use a die
grinder to sand the interior surface of
the pipe 3” from the joint ends. This
will provide a proper bonding surface
for applying the veil, mat and resin to
the interior of the pipe.
The standard resin mixture is 16 ml of catalyst for each quart
of resin. After the first quart of resin is mixed and a layer of
fiberglass has been applied, it may be evident the ratio of
catalyst should be changed to allow more or less working
time. If more working time is required, use as little as 13 ml
of catalyst to each quart of resin. This will normally double the
pot life and the curing time.

If a quicker cure time is required, use up to 22 ml of catalyst

for each quart of resin. This will shorten the pot life and cure
time.
1. Measure the recommended amount of catalyst, using
the graduated measuring beaker. See the Weld Kit Cure
Times Chart.
2. Pour the measured catalyst into one (1) quart of resin and
stir until completely blended. When the resin is properly
blended, the color will be a consistent shade of green and
will begin to foam.
Note: Never use less then 13 ml or more than 22 ml of catalyst
for each quart of resin. Smoking or crazing of a joint indicates
an over-catalyzed resin. Joints made with over-catalyzed resin
will be structurally weak, provide poor chemical resistance,
and should not be used.
INSIDE JOINT WELD (24” Diameter and Larger Pipe)
Inside joint welds are very important
to the structural integrity of the pipe.
Where accessible, make inside joint
welds when joining large diameter
pipe, using the following procedures:
1. Wet the sanded surface of the
piping interior with a light coat of
catalyzed resin.
2. Arrange the materials on a flat
surface or table top, pre-wet two layers of 4” wide
fiberglass mat and one layer of veil. The veil is the top
layer.
3. Apply the pre-wet layers, centering the glass over the joint.
The mat goes against the pipe wall with the veil exposed
to the fluid stream.
Corrosion Barrier (Smaller than 24” Diameter Piping)
If an inside joint weld cannot be made, a corrosion barrier must
be made on the exterior joining surfaces of the piping, using
the following procedures:
1. Wet the sanded surface of the
piping exterior with a light coat
of catalyzed resin.
2. Arranging the materials on a flat
surface or tabletop, pre-wet two
layers of 4” wide fiberglass mat
and one layer of veil. Be sure
the veil is the top layer.
3. Apply the pre-wet layers centering the glass over the
joint.
4. Be sure the veil is against the pipe.
APPLYING THE FIBERGLASS REINFORCEMENT
Apply all the fiberglass layers, as
supplied in the Butt Weld Kit, for the
pressure rating and size of the pipe
being joined. Start with the narrowest
fab mat at the pipe surface and
proceed to the widest fab mat. Place
on table or flat surface and pre-wet
a layer of fiberglass with resin. Pick
up the wetted layer of fiberglass and
place it over the joint. Apply each
layer of fab mat with the mat side
down. As each layer is applied, roll
out the wrinkles or trapped air with
the 3” paint roller.
The catalyzed resin should be continuously worked into the
glass until it begins to gel (warms and begins to harden). No
more than 4 layers of fab mat should be applied before the
resin is allowed to gel. After each stage has gelled, sand lightly
to remove any burrs before additional layers are applied. Do
not move the piping until the joint has hardened and cooled.
MIXING AND APPLYING THE FINISH COAT
After all the layers of fiberglass have
been applied to the joint and the joint
has gelled or semi-hardened, apply a
final coat of catalyzed resin using the
3” paint roller or a brush. The finish
coating is in a separate container
marked “Finish Coat Resin.” This
resin should be catalyzed using the
same procedure as for the standard
lay-up resin. If less than one quart of
finish coat resin is required, reduce
the recommended amounts of
catalyst proportionately.
Application of the Finish Coat Resin is critical to developing a
chemical resistant piping surface and joint.
JOINT CURE
The minimum required cure time is 36 hours at 60°F.
Inadequate joint strength will result if the catalyzed resin is
cured at temperatures less than 60°F. Cure temperatures up
to 200°F will accelerate cure time to two hours and increase
joint strength. Heat cure is highly recommended for piping
systems carrying fluids at temperatures above 120°F. Before
pressurizing the piping system or moving the piping, cure the
joint per the Cure Time Chart.
HYDROSTATIC TESTING
Piping systems should be hydrostatically tested prior to being
put into service. Avoid water hammer during testing to prevent
serious damage to the piping system.
All anchors, guides, and supports must be in place prior to
testing the line. Hydrostatically test the line as follows:
1. Water should be introduced at the lowest point in the test
section and the air bled off through partially open valves
or loose flanges at the highest points. Slowly introduce
water into the system to prevent water hammer. Slowly
close the bleed points when all the air has been forced
from the system.
2. Bring the system gradually up to the test pressure. Test
pressure should not be more than 1½ times the working
pressure of the piping system and must never exceed 1½
times the rated operating pressure of the lowest rated
component in the system.
3. When testing is completed, open all of the high point air
bleeds before draining the piping through the fill lines.
This will prevent vacuum collapse of the pipe.
COMPRESSED AIR / GAS TESTING
Compressed air or gas testing of NOV Fiber Glass Systems
piping systems is not recommended. When air or compressed
gas is used for testing, tremendous amounts of energy may
be released catastrophically resulting in property damage and
personal injury.
When system contamination or fluid weight prevents the use
of hydrostatic testing, use compressed air or gas testing with
extreme caution. To reduce the risk of air testing, pressurize
the system to no more then 15 psig.
Adhesive Disposal: Once the adhesive and hardener have
been mixed and reacted, nothing can be extracted, and it is
classified as non-hazardous material. Dispose of in a normal
manner as other solid wastes. Excess adhesive and hardener
can be mixed, allowed to react, and disposed of as above. If
extra jars of adhesive or hardener have accumulated without
the other component to mix and react, contact your NOV Fiber
Glass Systems regional manager. Hardener jars, when empty
are not subject to EPA regulations and can be disposed of in a
normal manner. These guidelines are based on federal regu-
lations. State and local regulations and ordinances should be
reviewed.

When pressurizing the system with compressed air or gas,

the area surrounding the piping must be cleared of personnel
to prevent possible injury. Hold the pressure for one hour
then reduce the pressure to one-half the original pressure.
Personnel may then enter the area to perform “soap testing”
of all the joints. If compressed air or gas testing is used, NOV
Fiber Glass Systems will not be responsible for any resulting
injury to personnel or damage to property, including the piping
system.

Compressed air or gas testing is done entirely at the discretion

and complete risk for the customer, contractor and user.

Butt Weld Kit Shelf Life and Cure Time Chart

Part B
Part A Part B Butt Weld
Temperature Catalyst Pot Life Gel Time
Shelf Life Shelf Life Joint Cure
ºF Per Qt. Minutes Minutes
Months Months Time Hours
Resin
40-49 6 12 N/R N/R N/R N/R
50-59 5 12 N/R N/R N/R N/R
60-69 3-4 12 16 ml 20-40 25-45 36
70-79 3-4 12 16 ml 20-40 25-45 24
80-89 2-3 9 16 ml 15-35 18-38 24
90-100 1-2 4 13 ml 8-15 10-18 16
1”-12” 1
Heat Assisted Cure
14”-42” 2

N/R = Not Recommended

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ADH4225 February 2010