Armando Paredes

Antes você pode esquematizar uma parede para armar, você precisa saber como typical wood-
frame walls are constructed. All walls have a bottom or soleplate, a top plate (doubled in
bearing walls), and vertical supports called studs. There are three kinds of studs: king studs,
jack (or trimmer) studs, and cripple studs. King studs run from the soleplate all the way to the
top plate. Jack studs run from the soleplate up alongside a rough opening to the underside of its
header. Cripple studs can run from either the soleplate to the underside of a rough opening's sill
or from the top of the opening's header to the top plate (Fig. 1).

Most load-bearing walls are framed with 2x4s or 2x6s, depending on structural or insulation
demands. A 2x6 wall is proportionately stronger; although each stud costs more than a
comparable 2x4, the overall cost is only marginally different because fewer 2x6s are needed.
(Building codes usually allow them to be placed 24 inches on center, while 2x4s must be
spaced every 16 inches on center.) Wider studs also allow more space for insulation. A 2x4 wall
can accommodate a 3-1/2-inch-thick batt of fiberglass insulation, while a 2x6 wall accepts batts
up to 5-1/2 inches. Federal guidelines call for higher insulation values in exterior walls; this is
one of the easiest ways to attain it. For any other framing jobs you may tackle, such as sheds,
dormers, and garages, 2x4 studs are recommended; they are the most economical.

Below are guidelines on how to frame an exterior wall. Keep in mind that this is only an
overview; there are many details involved in a framing project, and procedures will vary with
floor plan, local codes, etc. Study framing techniques, and contact your local building
department before you begin.

Project Basics

Fig. 1

Project: Difficult
Estimated Project Time: Varies with scope of project
Study framing techniques and contact
Start Tips: your local building department before
starting.
Wear hearing protectors, gloves, and
safety goggles when cutting lumber.
Safety Tips:
Also wear a dust mask, especially
when cutting pressure-treated lumber.
Recommendation: Do-it-Yourself

Tools and Materials:

Ladder Pencil
Hearing protectors Hammer
Work gloves Common nails
Safety goggles Chalk line box
Dust mask, as needed String
Circular saw Backup clips for corners, as needed
2x4 or 2x6 lumber
Combination square
4-foot level
Measuring tape

Instructions

1) Prepare the Studs

Start by marking the layout on both the soleplate and
one of the two top plates at the same time so studs
will line up. (Fig. 2)

Cut the king studs, trimmers, headers, cripples, sills,

and corners to length.

Fig. 2

2) Nail Studs to Soleplate

Work on the subfloor to assemble the frame. Position
each king stud, stand on it to prevent shifting, and
nail through the soleplate. (Fig. 3)

Fig. 3
 3) Nail First Top Plate to Studs
When the soleplate is nailed on, shift to the top of the
wall, and follow the same procedure to nail on one of
the top plates. (Fig. 4)

Fig. 4

4) Prepare Rough Openings

For each door or window rough opening, insert the header in them while working on the floor.
Drive 16d nails through the trimmers into the sills and through the sills into the cripples; then
insert the completed assembly into the rough opening. Attach the bottom plate to the cripples
and trimmers with 16d nails, and then nail the trimmers to the king studs with 8d nails. (See
Figure 1)

5) Check Alignment
Check the frame alignment by comparing diagonal
measurements. If the wall is square, the diagonals
should be equal. (Fig. 5)

Fig. 5
 6) Position the Wall
Before erecting any wall, snap a chalk line along the
subfloor to establish a reference guide for positioning
the inside edge of the wall's bottom plate, and nail
cleats to the rim joist.

With as many people as you need, slide the wall into

position so that when you raise it, it will stand close
to the guideline. Erect the wall, and align it with the
line. (Fig. 6)

Fig. 6

7) Brace the Wall

Using a 4-foot level, get the wall as plumb as possible. You'll
fine-tune it for plumb when you install the adjacent wall. Run
braces from studs or from cleats on headers to cleats that will be
tacked to the subfloor. When you have the wall plumb, have a
helper nail the cleats to the subfloor. (Fig. 7)

Fig. 7

8) Fasten the Wall

With the bottom plate properly positioned, nail it to the rim joists and to the floor joists with 16d
nails, one nail per stud bay.
 9) Check for Plumbing and Alignment of Walls
Use a 4-foot level to check several studs for plumb.
Make adjustments as necessary. (Fig. 8)

Fig. 8

To make sure the wall is in a straight line, make three

identical blocks of wood, 3/4-inch thick. Mount two
blocks on opposite outside corners of the same wall,
and stretch a string tightly between them, tying the
string to nails so it is taut against the blocks. Run the
third block beneath the string. If the wall is true, the
string will stand off the wall 3/4 inch along the full
length of the wall and just barely touch the block.
Fig. 9 (Fig. 9)

10) Install the Other Walls

Install the other walls using the above procedures.

11) Install Corner Posts

There are two basic types of corners: inside corners and outside
corners. Inside corners occur where interior walls, or partitions,
butt into another stud wall. Outside corners are the corners of
walls.

Outside corners are key to a building because they do three

important jobs: support a lot of weight, form a plumb connection
between two walls, and provide nailing for siding outside and
drywall inside.

Fig. 10 There are many styles of corners. DIYers may want to build the
most substantial, a stud-and-block corner that provides
maximum support and nailing surfaces (Fig. 10).
 Using three studs without blocking is almost as good (Fig. 11).

Fig. 11

Some builders looking for maximum economy use the two-stud

corner (Fig. 12). Interior drywall has no nailing on one side and
relies on clips for support.

Assemble corner posts and add them to the corners between the
walls you erected.

Fig. 12

12) Install the Second Top Plate

With corner posts in place, install the second layer of
top plate. Stagger the joints over the corner to tie one
wall to another (Fig. 13). You may also want to install
metal fasteners to reinforce the stud joints.

Fig. 13