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Mixing and Techniques – Part I


By Didier Rosada
excerpted from breadlines · 2002 · volume 10 · issue 3

Many bakers consider mixing the most ingredients precisely. I know that some- to be added. But, all the other ingredients
important step in baking. As seen times baking is not considered a very were calculated on the original weight of
before in a precedent article (Newsletter precise science, unfortunately, but having the flour, not including the added flour-
Volume 6 Issue 3), all steps of the baking all the ingredients scaled properly will The result will be an imbalance in the
process are connected and all of them are insure a well-balanced formula and at the formula if the quantity of added flour is
important. However, knowing that mixing same time a very consistent end product. fairly large.
is the first mandatory step to produce
The second important thing is to calcu- A special note related to dough mixed in
bread, a lot of attention must be given to
late the water temperature. As seen in the vertical mixer or mixer without a bowl-
this stage of the baking process.
preceding article by Marsha de Angelis reverse option: if flour is placed first in
Numerous functional and crucial dough (Bread Lines Volume 10 lssue 1), water the bowl, it might be possible that some
characteristics, such as consistency, temperature will depend on a lot of fac- of it will get stuck in the bottom without
gluten development, and dough tors including temperature of the bakery, being incorporated into the dough. One
temperature will be determined during temperature of the preferment, mixing way to prevent this problem is to add
mixing. The goal of this two-part article time, etc. Taking all of these variables half of the water first, then all of the flour
will be to present in a very detailed way into consideration, the baker must define and the rest of the water, until the dough
what is really happening when we mix the adequate water temperature to use consistency is achieved.
dough. More precisely, the following in order to get the desired dough tem-
topics will be covered: 2 Ingredient Incorporation
perature at the end of the mixing. This
: Steps to follow in order to successfully When the ingredients are scaled and
desired dough temperature could be
mix a dough to the dough- water temperature determined, flour and
different depending on the type of bread
: What is happening during the mixing of water are placed in the bowl. The mixer
produced. In general, it is between 73°F
the dough is then turned on in first speed. During
and 78°F. Next, and once again this might
: Precautions to take when mixing extra seem very logical, it is necessary to make
the next three to four minutes flour and
ingredients Into the dough water will be combined together by the
sure that the mixer bowl and hook are
: Different mixing techniques -and their clean. It only takes a few seconds to clean
mechanical action of the mixer’s dough
applications hook. During this time, the baker must
scraps of dried dough still stuck to the
: How to determine mixing time bowl. If they are left there, they might not
watch the consistency of the dough
: Factors affecting mixing time dissolve properly into the next dough and
carefully. If more water is needed, this is
: What technique to choose in a will be found, hard as a rock, in the final
the best time to add it to the dough.
production environment product to the probable disappointment If preferments are used, they should be
Steps to follow in order to of the customer. incorporated into the dough at this stage.
successfully mix a dough Depending on the type of preferment
The last thing is to try to put the flour
Mixing is a procedure that could be (high or low hydration), the consistency
first in the bowl and then add the other
divided in four important steps. If all of the dough might be changed, and some
liquids and water. The idea is to avoid
those steps are carefully achieved, the water adjustments might be necessary.
changing the weight of the flour. In
result will be properly mixed dough and a general, formulas are designed using When the consistency is achieved, two
very consistent final product. baker’s percent where all the ingredients options are possible. One is to continue
1 Preparation before mixing are based on the total weight of the flour. mixing and incorporate the other ingredi-
This first step might sound very simple, For example, if the water is added first, ents of the dough like yeast and then salt,
but it is definitely an important one. Be- then the flour, and the baker realizes that or the baker “autolyses” the dough.
fore mixing, it is important to scale all the the dough is too soft, more flour will have
Continued on next page

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Mixing and When using liquid preferments


like poolish or liquid levain, their
has been obtained or not. If the
temperature is good, then the baker can
Techniques – Part I incorporation must happen at the
beginning of the mixing process, even
follow his regular baking process. If the
temperature of the dough is too cold or
Continued from previous page if an autolyse is done. Their low yeast too warm, the first fermentation time will
content won’t really affect the strength of need to be adjusted: longer for cooler
The autolyse is a process, developed by the dough. Stiffer preferment with more dough temperature, shorter for warmer
Professor Raymond Calvel, when the yeast, like pre-fermented dough, should dough temperature. The difference in
flour and water are allowed to rest foi’a be incorporated after the autolyse time. temperature would have to be taken into
minimum of fifteen to twenty minutes. consideration for troubleshooting the
Technically speaking, when no autolyse is
During this time two important reactions next batch of dough (increase or decrease
made, flour, water, yeast and salt could be
will happen in the dough. The first one is of the water temperature).
incorporated at the beginning of the mix-
a better hydration of the proteins of the
ing. Despite the common belief that salt A common mistake in many bakeries is to
flour, leading to a better gluten quality.
will kill the yeast, no change would hap- continue mixing if the temperature of the
The second one is a natural action of the
pen in the dough or bread characteristics. dough is too cold. For sure this process
protease, an enzyme naturally present
The salt and yeast will be in contact in will warm up the dough due to the extra
in the flour. When allowed enough time
the dough for the next 4 to 6 hours after friction, but this extra mixing time will
to work, the proteases of the flour will
mixing, so if something would happen, it also continue to develop the gluten of
react on the protein and degrade some of
would have plenty of time to happen. the dough. As an end result we might get
the gluten bonds. As a result, the dough
the desired dough temperature, but the
will become more extensible and its However, in order to have better control
dough is likely to be over-developed. So,
machinability will be improved. over the ingredient incorporation and to
adjusting the first fermentation time is a
make sure that no ingredients have been
No salt is used in the autolyse. Its natural much safer and advised procedure.
forgotten, it is better to follow a standard
action of slowing down the chemical
procedure in regards to the addition of Good precision and some attention
reaction would also slow down the action
ingredients into the dough. For example, during all of these steps should lead to
of the proteases of the flour.
if the baker always adds yeast, then the the dough being properly mixed. Let’s
No yeast is added at this time. Yeast salt, before going into second speed, discuss now what istechnically happening
generates fermentation, fermentation there is less chance of error or better odds during the formation of the dough.
generates acidity and acidity increases of noticing a mistake.
Two main types of changes are happening
the strength of the dough.
3 Dough development during the mixing of the dough: the phys-
And, in general, autolyse is done to When all the ingredients are well ical changes and the chemical changes.
increase dough extensibility, therefore incorporated and the dough consistency
Physical changes happening
decreasing the strength of the dough. has been achieved, the baker will go to
during formation of the dough
the next step: dough development.
After the autolyse, yeast and salt are As soon as flour and water are in
added to the dough. This step, depending on the desired contact, the water will hydrate the flour
dough development, could be components. The two main components
Notes:
done in first speed or second speed. of the flour are the starch and the protein.
When using Dried Instant Yeast, it is
better to incorporate the yeast with the The mixing time depends on the desired Two main, types of starch are found in the
flour for one minute at the beginning gluten development. A long mixing flour, the native starch and the damaged
of the mixing time. Because of their low time in second speed is used for well- starch. The native starch absorbs water
water content, cells of Dried Instant Yeast developed dough, and a short mixing time on the outside of the particle only,
will need more time to re-hydrate. A late in first speed is used for under-developed damaged starch absorbs close to its own
incorporation could result in yeast not dough. More precise guidelines will be weight in water.
completely dissolved into the dough and presented later in the article.
Both starches will play the role of filling
a fermentation activity affected.
The gluten structure development agent in a dough system.
The same principle could be applied depends also on the characteristics that
Proteins, depending on their quality can
for an autolyse. Because mixing time we are looking for in the final product.
absorb 200% to 250% of their weight in
is reduced when an autolyse is done, it This will also be discussed later.
water. These proteins will inflate, and
is better to incorporate the Dry Instant
4 After mixing when inflated will have the natural
Yeast just before the autolyse. The time
Because fermentation activity is property of being attracted to each other
they will get dissolve into the dough, the
dependent on the temperature of the and will form chains of proteins called the
autolyse time will be almost over and the
dough, it is important for the baker to gluten of the dough.
fermentation of the dough still minimum.
check if the desired dough temperature
{ 22 } the bread bakers guild of america
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Once the gluten has been formed, the able to keep a good control on his process, Incorporation of other
mechanical movement of the dough hook the baker will have to reduce the level of ingredients into a dough system
will work the gluten into an organized yeast in the formula. It will be difficult to discuss every
structure. If one looks carefully at the ingredient that is added to the dough
Another important chemical change
mixer’s hook working in dough, two in every bakery, but some observations
happening during mixing time is the
distinct movements can be observed. The about the main ones could be helpful.
oxidation of the dough. This reaction
first part of the movement stretches the
is due to the air naturally incorporated 1 Incorporation of fat
chains of gluten and the second part folds
in the dough during mixing. The air A smaller percentage (2 to 4%) of solid
the chains of gluten over onto themselves.
contains oxygen, which will have some fat, like butter or margarine, could be
After a period of mixing, the chains of effects in the dough. incorporated at the beginning of the
gluten become longer and longer, finer mixing time with flour and water.
To a certain point, the effect of the
and finer, and more and more overlapped.
oxygen will be positive. The oxygen will A larger percentage (5 to 15%) of solid fat
This creates the three-dimensional gluten
chemically react with the molecules of should be incorporated when the dough
structure of the dough.
protein to form better gluten bounds. is at 50% of development (in general in
A long mix will generate a gluten This will naturally reinforce the gluten the middle of the second speed time). An
structure that is well developed, and structure and the tolerance of the dough. earlier incorporation (at the beginning
a shorter mix will generate a gluten of the mixing time) would delay the
Too much oxygen (long mixing time), will
structure that is under-developed. A development of the gluten and increases
negatively affect some flour components
mixing time that is too long will stretch the mixing time. The fat would “lubricate”
called carotenoid pigments. The
the gluten chains to the point where they the chains of proteins, delaying the
pigments are natural components of the
will break. This is what we call over- bounding of the gluten.
kernel of wheat and are responsible for
mixing the dough.
the creamy color of the flour and some More than 15% solid fat should be
Due to the overlapping and better organi- aroma production. Too much oxygen incorporated when the gluten is almost
zation of the gluten chains, the structure will deteriorate these pigments and fully developed. This will insure a strong
of the gluten will get stronger. A notice- automatically lead to a final product with dough structure able to support this
able change in the rheology of the dough a white crumb color and a bland flavor. massive incorporation of fat.
can be observed. The dough is becoming
Despite the negative effect of too much, Liquid fats, like oil, are in general part
less extensible, more elastic and able
oxygen, some air is still necessary. of the hydration of the flour and should
to trap gas. Visco-elastic properties are
During mixing, micro cells of air will be be incorporated into the dough at the
developed, or more simply the dough
introduced into the dough system. These beginning of the mixing time. If a large
increases in strength and gas retention.
micro cells will play an important role quantity of oil is used, it is also possible
Note related to mixing time in first speed |star in the baking process by forming to incorporate it after the full gluten
Starch will absorb water faster than pro- the core of the crumb structure during development (very slowly in first speed).
tein. Protein hydration is a little slower. fermentation, the gas produced by the
2 Incorporation of sugar
To insure a good gluten quality, it is yeast will accumulate in these micro cells
A small amount of sugar (up to 12%) can
necessary to mix in first speed for at least and form the “alveoles” of the crumb.
be incorporated into the dough at the
five or even six minutes for a larger batch.
Note related to the oxidation beginning of the mixing time.
If we switch the mixer too early to second
To slow down the negative effect of the
speed, we might start to organize gluten Higher levels should be incorporated in
oxidation, one specific property of the salt
that is barely created and therefore penal- several steps. Sugar being a hydroscopic
can be used. Salt has a natural property of
ize the gluten development of the dough. ingredient, it will have the tendency to
slowing down all the chemical reactions
absorb a lot of water. If too much sugar is
Chemical changes happening (this is why we used to use it to increase
introduced to the dough at once, it might
during formation of the dough the shelf life of foods - cured meats or
take some water away from the protein,
When water is introduced in the mix, salted fish). By incorporating the salt
disorganizing the whole gluten structure.
it will start all the chemical reactions into the dough at the beginning of the
naturally happening in a dough system. mixing time (while the mixer is still in When levels of sugar are very high
The two main ones are fermentation first speed), the oxidation process will (20 to 30%), some bakers use the same
activity and enzyme activity. It is naturally, be slowed down. technique as for high level of butter:
interesting to know for the baker, that sugar is left out of the dough and
On the other hand, if the baker wants to
depending on the quantity of water, the incorporated when the gluten is well
achieve a very white crumb structure,
rate of these reactions will be affected. For developed.
the incorporation of the salt must be
exam pie, wet dough will generate faster
delayed. As a side effect, flavor will also
fermentation activity, and, in order to be
be penalized. Continued on next page

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Mixing and
Techniques – Part I
Continued from previous page

3 Incorporation of eggs
Eggs should be incorporated at the
beginning of the mixing, as they will
play a major role in the hydration of the
flour. It is recommended, even though
some formulas call for only eggs to
hydrate the flour, to always add some
water. Eggs don’t have the same flour
hydration characteristics compared to
water. To insure a good gluten quality,
at least 10% of water (in addition to the
eggs) is necessary. The final product
will have a lighter and moister crumb
texture.
4 Incorporation of dry ingredients
Ingredients like malt or milk powder
can be incorporated at the beginning of
the mixing time with flour and water.
Incorporation of solid ingredients like
nuts, dry fruits, chocolate chips...
Any chunky ingredients that won’t
dissolve into the dough must be
incorporated at the end of the mixing
time. Once the gluten has been prop-
erly developed, the mixer is turned
back in first speed and the ingredients
are, added to the dough. The dough is
mixed until the ingredients are well
distributed into the dough.
This gentle incorporation will have two
positive effects for the dough and the
bread. First, the ingredients will stay
intact into the dough (the action of the
hook in first speed in very gentle and
won’t crush the added ingredients).
Then, incorporating those ingredients
in a gentle way will reduce damage to
the gluten structure. If second speed
was used, the ingredients would react -
like razor blades into the dough and cut
all the gluten bonds that were formed
during the mixing.
This was a general description of the
mixing process. The next step is to
understand how a thorough knowledge
of mixing can be used. We will address
this topic in the next issue. ✹

{ 24 } the bread bakers guild of america

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