Homemade Energy

Home Made Energy
Copyright 2008-2010
www.HomeMadeEnergy.org
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Table of Contents
Table of Contents ..................................................................................................................... 2
DISCLAIMER ............................................................................................................................ 3
COPYRIGHT ............................................................................................................................... 3
Introduction .................................................................................................................................... 4
CHAPTER 1: REDUCING YOUR ENERGY NEEDS ............................................. 5
Determining Your Energy Needs ............................................................................................................. 11
CHAPTER 2: THE MAGIC BEHIND SOLAR POWER....................................... 14
How Solar Power Works:......................................................................................................................... 17
How Long Do Solar Panel Systems Last? ................................................................................................ 19
CHAPTER 3: BUILDING YOUR SOLAR ENERGY SYSTEM...................... 19
Parts & Their Functions............................................................................................................................ 20
Different Types of Solar Energy Systems ................................................................................................ 29
CHAPTER 4: SOLAR PANELS: TO SALVAGE, BUY OR BUILD............. 35
Obtaining Free Solar Panels ..................................................................................................................... 35
Getting Panels At A Discount .................................................................................................................. 36
Building Your Own Panels....................................................................................................................... 38
CHAPTER 5: HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN SOLAR PANEL ...................... 43
CHAPTER 6: MAINTAINING YOUR PANELS ........................................................ 58
CHAPTER 7: HOW WIND POWER WORKS ............................................................ 59
Parts Of A Wind Turbine ......................................................................................................................... 59
CHAPTER 8: TO BUY OR BUILD YOUR WIND ENERGY SYSTEM .... 61
CHAPTER 9: BUILD YOUR OWN WIND TURBINE .......................................... 66
CHAPTER 10: UNDERSTANDING HYDROELECTRIC POWER.............. 68
CHAPTER 11: WIRING YOUR BATTERY SYSTEM ........................................... 69
CHAPTER 12: THE ALTERNATIVE ENERGY HOME ........................................ 71
CHAPTER 13: LARGE SCALE RENEWABLE ENERGY ................................. 78
CHAPTER 14: MORE CHANGE FOR THE WORLD TO SEE ....................... 80
Reducing Your Oil Dependence:.............................................................................................................. 80
The Ethanol Question:.............................................................................................................................. 81
The Energy Of The Future: ...................................................................................................................... 81
CHAPTER 15: WHAT’S HOLDING BACK CHANGE? ...................................... 78
CHAPTER 16: ADDING TO YOUR KNOWLEDGE BASE-
WORKSHOPS AND RESOURCES ..................................................................................... 79
CHAPTER 17: CLOSING THOUGHTS .......................................................................... 85
LIST OF REFERENCED LINKS ........................................................................................... 86
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DISCLAIMER
The author and publisher of HomeMadeEnergy disclaims any liability, loss
or risk, personal or otherwise, which may be incurred as a direct or indirect
consequence of the use and application of the contents of this book.
Specifically, the contents of this book discuss the creation of Direct Current
(DC) Voltage utilizing Photovoltaic (PV) cells, modules and arrays as well
as Wind Turbines. Once the DC Voltage is created, we will discuss its usage
in DC form and we will discuss its usage by “converting” it into Alternating
Current (AC) Voltage through the use of an Inverter. AC Voltage is typically
utilized in residences and businesses. Anytime you work with or around
Electricity, it is imperative that you exercise care and caution. Careless or
improper handling of DC or AC Current can result in equipment and
property damage, physical harm and possibly death. We encourage you to
take care when working on any of the projects outlined in this book. By
purchasing this book, you have agreed that you are solely responsible
for your own actions.
Remember, SAFETY FIRST!
COPYRIGHT
This book may not be republished in any way. You are not authorized or
allowed through your purchase to transmit copies of this file to anyone
without written permission from HomeMadeEnergy. The use of this book is
limited to your personal use only. Giving away copies of this book to people
who have not paid for this book is illegal under international copyright laws
and you will be subject to legal action.
Copyright 2008-2009
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Introduction
Every day more and more people in the world realize the cold, hard truth
about the Earth’s energy supplies and our current energy use practices. Our
dependence on a finite supply of fossil fuels has prompted many people to
start looking for alternative energy sources.
In recent years we have seen oil prices skyrocket, making travel, domestic
utilities, packaging of foods, plastic products and even mowing the grass a
lot more expensive for millions of people. As you are reading this book,
people all over this planet are fighting and dying over oil reserves.
Some people think that the use of fossil fuels has even caused changes in the
earth’s climate and have led to conditions that many people think are now
irreversible. The consequences of these changes may lead to dwindling
polar ice caps, violent storms and out-of-control drought and wildfire
situations.
Regardless which side of this argument you agree with, the truth is, the need
for change in our lives as it relates to our energy needs becomes more
apparent daily. Fortunately, one solution to this challenge, is right outside
our homes daily in the form of sunshine! It is time to take notice and start
doing our part to preserve this planet, a planet that provides for our every
necessity. Not just for this generation but for the generations to come. This
book is not about finger pointing OR passing the blame; our goal is simple:
to bring about big change by starting small with each individual home and
business as YOU harness the power of the sun for energy.
Your curiosity about what you can do to make a change is probably what led
you to purchasing this book. Unfortunately, most alternative energy options
come with a large initial monetary investment, leaving the average person
wondering if there is really anything they can do to make a difference.
We have provided this book for those of you who refuse to believe that your
efforts don’t make a difference and for the rest of you who are ready to start
trying. Our goal is to answer your questions about alternative energy
options such as Solar and Wind and help you get started on your journey
towards energy independence!
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CHAPTER 1: REDUCING YOUR ENERGY NEEDS
Sustainable, renewable energy is an amazing gift from Mother Nature, but it
has not been an affordable energy resource for everyone, at least, not until
recently. Here is one great way to save up for your alternative energy source
and that is by starting to reduce your home or business energy
consumption now. By limiting your energy consumption, you will be
“saving money” on your electricity bills.
You can start with these simple tips to reduce your energy expenses.
y Cut your “wattage consumption”. Invest in energy efficient, compact

fluorescent light bulbs. Don’t just replace one or two bulbs, replace them
all and turn off lights when not in use or find lower wattage options -
instead of using the 4 bulb fixture above the sink, use the single bulb in
the ceiling light. Below is a comparison between conventional bulbs
and Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL)
Incandescent Vs CFL con’t
Table 1 below compares the wattage of commonly available incandescent lamps and
the wattage of a CFL that will provide similar light levels.
Table 1. Comparable Wattage of CFLs and Incandescents
Incandescent Wattage CFL Wattage
25 5
50 9
60 15
75 20
100 25
120 28
150 39
5
Incandescent Vs CFL con’t
Table 2 below shows how you can save money using CFLs. This table assumes the light
is on for 6 hours per day and that the electric rate is 10 cents per kilowatt-hour.
Table 2. Cost Comparisons between CFLs and Incandescents
27-Watt Compact Fluorescent 100-Watt Incandescent
Cost of Lamps $14.00 $0.50
Lamp Life 1642.5 days (4.5 years) 167 days
Annual Energy Cost $5.91 $21.90
Lamps Replaced in 4.5 years 0 10
Total Cost $40.60 $103.55
Savings Over Lamp Life $62.95 0
Use your Electric rate to figure your savings: _________________
y Turn off all your electronics when they are not in use. This goes beyond
hitting the power button. If you have an extra power strip, it can save a
bundle to use it for your electronics, especially those that require a
remote and are in a constant energy use state of “stand by”. Simply
switch off the power strips when the components are not in use.
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y See the site: Kill Phantom Loads:
y http://www.thedailygreen.com/going-green/definitions/Phantom-Load
y http://www.thedailygreen.com/going-green/tips/872
Impact of Phantom Loads
Device Watts/Hr Watts/Day Watts/Mo kWh/Mo
Video Game 1.1 26.4 792 0.792
Clock Radio 1.7 40.8 1224 1.224
Cordless Phone 2 48 1440 1.44
Anwering Machine 2.7 64.8 1944 1.944
Microwave 3.2 76.8 2304 2.304
TV 4.3 103.2 3096 3.096
VCR 5.6 134.4 4032 4.032
Dishwasher 6.4 153.6 4608 4.608
Cable TV Box 11.6 278.4 8352 8.352
Security System 18.3 439.2 13176 13.176
56.9 1365.6 40968 40.968
Cost/kWh 0.12
Phantom Load Cost / Month $4.92
Phantom Load Cost / Year $58.99
Also note it is far less expensive to reduce your power
consumption than it is to produce the power!!!
y Use ceiling fans to circulate air and to make your Air Conditioner (A/C)
more efficient.
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y Change filters on A/C and heating units regularly (every 30 days) to
increase efficiency and to have cleaner indoor air quality. This will also
extend the life of the A/C unit.
y Air-dry your clothes and dishes whenever possible. If you don’t like the
feel of air-dried clothes, try a combination of a quick 15-minute dryer
cycle and then a line dry to finish it off.
y Run the dishwasher for a wash cycle only and then open the door for the
full air-dry effect, eliminating the steam or heated dry cycle and saving
precious energy.
y Avoid baths and go for quick showers.
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y Adjust your Thermostat: lower the heat in the winter, wear a sweater in
the house and raise the A/C temp in the summer. Keep your home at a
moderate temperature year round. In the winter keep upper level floors at
a lower temperature, as it is the nature of physics that heat rises.
Use ceiling fans to circulate air and to make your Air Conditioner (A/C) more efficient.
y Plan ahead and eliminate excess driving around for errands. Keep your
tires and car in good condition to maximize your fuel efficiency and try
to drive around 55-60 mph to increase your miles per gallon (mpg). The
operation of your automobile can be very expensive! Money that you do
not spend on fuel, tires, repairs, etc., is money that you can save to
invest in your Photovoltaic (PV) System!!!
y Use the window on your oven to view progress while baking instead of
opening the door and letting precious energy escape. On the same note,
if it is safe to do in your household, leave the oven door open after baking
during winter months to take the chill out of room.
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y Winterize your home as much as possible. Close doors to unused rooms
and seal windows whenever possible.
y Replace worn, inefficient weather stripping around exterior doors.
Your local home improvement store should have all of the necessary supplies
and materials you will need to insulate and winterize your home so it will be
more energy efficient and save on energy costs.
Think of it this way, there is no point in producing your own energy if you
are just going to waste it by leaving the lights on and/or the windows open.
If you plan to utilize solar, wind or some other form of alternative energy
then it is best to get in the habit of making these little considerations now.
Give it a try and watch as your monthly electric usage goes down.
Remember, it is easier to SAVE energy than create it!

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Determining Your Energy Needs
Now you know some ways to cut back on your utility bills each month, but
there may still be a question of just how big of a system you need to build to
meet your home’s power consumption.
The first step is to reduce your energy usage as much as is comfortable for
you and the members of your household. If possible, trade in your old or out
of date appliances for more efficient ones (this may not be an option for
everyone, but a possible next step as you begin to save more money with
your reduced energy bills). Compare products/appliances before you buy.
Purchase the most energy efficient appliance. The most energy efficient
appliances will display the “Energy Star” logo. A little bit of extra dollars
spent in price is more than made up for by the savings you will experience in
operational cost over the life of the device.
Determining your average energy needs is as simple as looking at your

previous electric bills. Each bill supplied by the utility company will
identify how many Watts or Kilowatts of power you used in the last billing
period. Many utilities will offer information on the previous year’s
consumption. Use this to determine just how much energy your alternative
energy system is going to have to produce.
Just to give you an idea, before you start building or buying your alternative
energy system, let’s get a little better understanding of the energy you are
about to produce and what it will power in your home.
In order to better understand the impact of energy consumption, let’s take a

look at some electrical fundamentals commonly known as: “Ohm’s Law”
and how it relates to the Watts and/or Kilowatts used on your electricity bill.
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(Back to Chap 5)
Please notice how the following formula has a direct effect on your
electricity bill!!
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Electric Load Requirements
• Remember basic formula:
watts = volts x amps
– If not listed on device, read manufacture’s
label. Look for voltage and amps
consumed.
• For Example ‐ A small toaster may consume:
• 120 volts AC x 8.33 amps = 1,000 watts)
*Formula 1,000 watts x 1 hour =1,000 watt hour = 1 KWh. (See OHM’S
LAW circle above)
Let’s start by looking at 1,000 Watts of power or 1KW of power. This is the
average power that is consumed by small appliances such as lights, TVs,
DVD players, a microwave or toaster oven. Essentially you could eliminate
the cost of running these appliances daily by producing 1KW of power
yourself with a solar or wind energy system. Approximately 12 solar panels
generating 80 watts each can produce the 1,000 watts necessary to run these
appliances).
Example: A toaster consumes 1,600 Watts when operating; toaster operates
for 15minutes per day = .25 hours per day; 30 days = 1 month; Total Watt
Hours (Wh) / 1,000= KWh.
Toaster at 1,600 Watts X .25 hours per day = 400 Watt hours consumed per
day; 400Wh / day X (30 days) = 12,000 watt hours / month = 12KWh/month
1,000 watts (1KW)
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**We are all charged for the Kilowatt hours
consumed each month on our electricity bill.**
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The following table shows “Typical Wattage Requirements for Common
Appliances found in an average sized home (1,500 – 2,000 sq. ft.)”:
Typical Wattage Requirements Table for
Common Appliances
General Household Kitchen Appliances Entertainment
Air Conditioner (room) 1,000 Blender 300 CD Player 35
Air Conditioner (central) 3,500 Can Opener 100 Stereo 25 – 50
Blow Dryer 1,000 Dishwasher 1,500 19” TV 60
Ceiling Fan 10‐50 Microwave 1,400 32” TV 300
Clock Radio 2 Range (Large Burner) 2,100 DVD Player 11
Clothes Washer 1,450 Range (Small Burner) 1,250
Clothes Dryer (Electric) 4,000 Toaster 800 – 1,500 *Estimates Only – For Example Only*
Table Fan 10 – 25 Mixer 120 ALWAYS use Manufacturer’s Literature
Refrigeration Lighting Tools / Office

New Energy Star 110 Incandescent bulb (100 W) 100 14” Band Saw 1,100
Older Refrig / Freezer 475 Incandescent bulb (60 W) 60 Electric Drill ¼” 300
Standard Freezer 400 Compact Flour (CFL) (60 W equiv.) 16 Electric Drill ½” 600
Incandescent (40 W) 40 Electric Drill 1” 1,000
Compact Flour (CFL 40 W equiv.) 11 Computer – Desktop 80 ‐ 450
Printer (Inkjet) 50 ‐ 75
*Estimates Only – For Example Only* Printer (Inkjet) 600 – 1,000
ALWAYS use Manufacturer’s Literature Fax (Stand‐by) 15 – 45
Fax (Printing) 120 ‐ 350
So, if you use the formula shown above, you can

compute the load for your home using the spread
sheet we have supplied for you.
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Load Estimation Worksheet Solutions
AC DC Watts Watts Use Use 7 Watt Watt
Individual Loads Qty X Volts Volts X Amps = AC DC X Hrs /Day X Days /Wk ÷ Days = Hours AC Hours DC
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
X X = 0 0 X X ÷ 7 = 0.00 0.00
AC Total Connected Watts: 0 AC Average Daily Load: 0.00
AC kWh / Month: 0.00
DC Total Connected Watts: 0 DC Average Daily Load: 0.00
DC kWh / Month: 0
Please go to: http://www.homemadeenergy.org/SizingCalculators.xls
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CHAPTER 2: THE MAGIC BEHIND SOLAR POWER
The sun is an extremely vital element in our world. Can you even imagine a
world without the sun to warm, feed and nourish everything on the planet’s
surface?
Using the power of the sun to provide energy to power your home or
business is an amazing and incredible concept. It can be mind-blowing
when you actually consider that the Sun produces enough energy everyday
to sustain the average household’s electricity needs. If it were not for the
technological and financial limitations of solar energy systems, it is quite
conceivable that we could be using solar power for the majority of our
energy needs right now. Unfortunately, historically high costs have
prevented most people from benefitting from the Sun’s energy. YOU, by
purchasing this book have taken the first steps to alter that trend.
Take a moment to think about the value of the sun and its role as a
renewable resource. What exactly does renewable mean? The amount of
solar energy we use today in no way effects the amount of energy that will
be available for use tomorrow or in 20 years. What is even better about
solar energy is that we are not borrowing from our children’s future or
creating greater problems for their children.
Definition: Insolation- solar radiation striking the earth a particular time

and place. On a clear day total insolation = 1,000 watts per square meter.
The sun produces on average 1,000 watts/per square meter.
How Solar Power Works:
The concept of solar energy is the process of collecting the energy produced
by the sun over a specified surface area and then converting that collected
energy into usable electricity for our homes and buildings. Many people
think that Photovoltaic (PV) energy is a relatively new technology.
The facts are that in 1839, Edmund Becquerel discovered the photovoltaic
effect while experimenting with metal plates. He discovered that some
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materials were photoconductive and could create small electrical charges
when exposed to light. In 1887, Heinrich Hertz observed much the same
effect when creating a spark-generating apparatus.
Then in 1905, Albert Einstein described mathematically how the
photovoltaic effect was caused, and in the process defined "quanta of light,"
which are now called photons. He posited that the absorption of discrete
quanta of light explained the observations of the effect thus far. His paper on
the topic won him the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1921 and was one of his
greatest discoveries.
In the early 1950’s, Bell Laboratories developed a silicon-based cell that

achieved a six percent efficiency compared to solar cells manufactured today
that are close to 20% efficient.
The first non-laboratory use of photovoltaic technology was to power a

telephone repeater station in Georgia in the late 1950’s. NASA (National
Aeronautics and Space Administration) installed a PV system consisting of
108 cells on Vanguard I which was the United States’ first satellite. By the
early 1960’s, PV systems were being installed on most satellites and
spacecraft.
Solar energy systems use solar panels made up of photovoltaic (photo

means light and voltaic means electricity) cells to collect and convert the
sun’s energy into electricity that we can use. Most photovoltaic (PV) cells
are made from very thin layers of silicon and then impregnated with tiny
amounts of elements like boron and phosphorus.
Energy is produced when the sun’s rays contact the photovoltaic cells and a
“reaction” occurs. The semiconductors absorb the sun’s energy. This causes
electrons to break free from their atoms and push through the cell’s substrate
to create electricity.
It is hard to believe that the internal components of age-old transistor radios

helped create the world of solar power. There has been many advancements
made in the world of photovoltaic cells in recent years and most solar panels
manufactured today are able to absorb an ever increasing percentage of the
sun’s energy and convert it to electricity. Some, even operate with limited
sun exposure, whereas the original panels only produced electricity in full
and direct sunlight.
Today, PV solar modules supply electrical power to more than 1 million

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homes worldwide. This technology supports thousands of jobs and creates
sustainable economic opportunities. The applications for solar PV energy
today include communications, refrigeration for health care, crop irrigation,
water purification, lighting, utility power and other residential and
commercial applications.
How Long Do Solar Panel Systems Last?
Photovoltaic (PV) cells and panels are a great investment because they last a
long, long, time. The oldest units in use, on earth that is, are around 45 years
old and still operating well. As the technology behind solar cells advances,
the longevity of panels is increasing and degradation rates are decreasing.
Because transistor technology was the basis for most solar cell development,
many early researchers believed that solar cells would have a similar 20-year
life span. However, the cells that were placed in space in the 1960’s, to
power the early communication satellites, are still functioning today.
Solar energy and solar panels are a sound investment in your future both in
terms of lower utility bills today and in the future as the cost of electricity
will surely rise in the years to come. Another financial aspect to consider is
that the depreciation of your system will be minimal. In fact, the “estimated
life span” of solar cells/solar panels is 20 years and longer.
Advantages of PV Technology Disadvantages of PV Technology

Reliability: even in harsh conditions Initial Costs: historically high but
PV systems are extremely reliable due to technology and government
incentives more affordable today
Durability: most PV cells/modules Weather Dependence: lack of sun,
are guaranteed by the mfg. for 25 cloudy, rainy weather can affect PV
years or longer energy production
Low Maintenance Cost: PV Cost of Batteries: if used to store
systems usually only require periodic PV system power, can significantly
inspections and occasional add to cost of PV system
maintenance
Modularity: modules may be added May need to replace old, inefficient
incrementally to increase system electrical appliances within one’s
power home
Allows Energy Independence Lack of Education: PV systems
represent new and unfamiliar
technology that requires education
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No Fuel Cost as PV modules
generate their own energy
CHAPTER 3: BUILDING YOUR SOLAR ENERGY

SYSTEM
The cost of purchasing a commercial solar generator or a solar energy
system at a retail value is not a pleasant thought for members of the average
income household. However, building your own solar generator is a cost
effective way to introduce alternative energy into your home or business and
it is a lot easier than you probably imagined. The photovoltaic (PV) cell life
span usually includes a manufacturer’s warranty which may last for 20
years or more.
There are actually different applications for solar power that you can use
within your home or business to reduce your commercial energy dependence
and reduce your energy costs. But, before we can start describing the
various systems, let’s look at the individual parts of most solar energy
systems and their functions. Your familiarity with these elements will make
understanding the designs presented later in this book, easier to understand.
Photovoltaic System Parts & Their Functions
Solar Cell: The key ingredient of the Photovoltaic (PV) system is the
Photovoltaic (PV) cell. PV cells are connected together to create PV panels.
Stringer: When the individual PV cells are connected together in a “string”,

they are referred to as a “stringer”. Four (4), 9 cell stringers make up a 36
cell panel.
(Back to Pg 43)
Solar Panels: Otherwise known as PV (or photovoltaic) panels are the

20
“heart” of a solar electric system. These panels capture the sun’s energy and
convert it into direct current or DC electricity.
Each PV cell produces approximately .55 volts DC and from 1 to 8 amps per
PV cell (depending on surface area of cell). As the graphic above shows,
the PV cells are connected together to create PV panels and then the panels
are connected together to create a Photovoltaic (PV) System referred to as a
PV Array.
Most solar panels are rated with wattage information and you will need to
determine your electricity usage needs to find the best panels for your
project. You can combine multiple panels into an Array to meet your system
requirements. Standard panels usually have either 36 or 72 cells per panel.
(36 PVcells per panel X .55 VDC per PV Cell = approx. 20 Volts DC per
panel x 4 Amps/cell = approx 80watts of power) *See Ohm’s Law formula:
Watts = Volts X Amps*
As you can see from “the Cell to Array” graphic below, you will create your
first PV module from individual solar cells. As you create additional PV
modules you will connect them together to create the necessary sized array
for your individual electricity needs for your home.
21
22
Once you have built the number of PV panels necessary for your home’s
energy needs, then you can install the Array on the ground (see graphic
below) or on the roof (see graphic below) to generate electrical power.
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An example of a “ground mount” PV System is shown here:
(Please Note: the PV panels in the graphic above each have 4 rows (stringers) 9 cells long
for 36 cells per panel which is common size PV panel)
An example of a “roof mount” PV System is shown here:
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Other Components in the PV System:
Array DC Disconnect: The DC Disconnect is

an important maintenance element of any solar panel system. The DC
disconnect makes shutting off power from the solar panels easy and safe.
Please Note: The disconnect MUST be DC “rated” and not AC “rated”!
Charge Controller: A Charge controller is a

“must” ,if batteries are to be utilized in a PV system. Utilizing a charge
controller will greatly benefit the life and charge of your battery system (if
one is in use). The charge controller protects the batteries from becoming
overcharged by interrupting the charging process once the batteries are fully
charged. Many charge controllers incorporate features that will prevent the
battery from discharging at night.
Charge Controllers may have optional features as listed below:
* Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD) - disconnects the PV System from the

batteries when the battery discharges down to a certain level.
*Lites/ Buzzers - will warn you of a low voltage condition. They will also
notify you when batteries are fully charged.
*Generator Start-up – Many “Off Grid PV Systems” will utilize an auxiliary
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generator (Genset) to provide power if the need arises. If the batteries
discharge to a “too low” level the auxiliary generator may be started by the
charge controller.
*Deep cycle batteries - are necessary for your PV System. They can be fairly
expensive, but high quality PV batteries are the best and least troublesome in
the long run. It is highly recommended that you purchase batteries with a
manufacturer’s warranty.
**Car Batteries SHOULD NOT be used in a PV system!!
Deep Cycle Battery: or Deep

cycle batteries are the best and safest battery to use with any alternative
energy system. This battery will store the energy produced by the solar
panels. It is possible to find free deep cycle batteries from suppliers of other
machines that utilize deep cycle batteries such as golf carts, forklifts and
fishing boats. However, perhaps the best and least troublesome action is to
purchase new batteries with a manufacturer’s warranty. ** HME warns: Do
not use a car battery in PV systems.
System Meter: A system meter can be used in

coordination with your battery bank to monitor how fully charged your
system is. You can also use the system meter to determine how much energy
is being consumed at any given time. Many system meters allow the
homeowner to “go online” with their system through the system meter to
monitor their PV System.
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Main DC Disconnect: The main DC disconnect allows
you to easily and safely disconnect the inverter for maintenance. It is
installed between the battery bank and the inverter.
Inverter: An inverter is an integral element in

any alternative energy system. This unit converts the DC energy generated
by your solar panels into alternating current or AC current. As we explained
earlier, AC current is the type of electricity used by household appliances. If
you wish to operate only DC appliances, then no conversion from DC to AC
power is necessary.
Generator: A generator is not a necessary

element for all alternative energy systems. It is most beneficial in “off-grid”
systems which you will learn more about later. Some individuals decide to
27
include a generator in their alternative energy system as a “back-up” source
of power. It can be used to generate energy on days when there is not
enough sun exposure to produce electricity. In addition to providing power
when there is not enough sunshine to operate the PV System, the generator
may and will be used to recharge the Deep Cycle Batteries in the PV
System’s battery backup system.
AC Breaker Panel : Almost every home, except

maybe those with no existing electricity, has a breaker panel located
somewhere on the premises. It is the point where all of the home’s electrical
wiring meets with the electricity provider. The electricity can be provided
via a commercial grid system (AC), through an alternative system (PV) or
through a hybrid system that combines both (AC + PV). Another alternative
is to operate a hybrid PV system which is a PV system plus a grid tied
system
Every state and/or local governmental agency has their own set of
guidelines and codes regarding the ways that alternative energy sources
are connected to the AC breaker panel. It is the Recommendation of
HME that you always employ a qualified, licensed electrician, who is
knowledgeable about PV systems, to connect your alternative energy
system to the AC breaker panel.
It is possible to run your appliances directly from your inverter. This would
eliminate the cost of hiring an electrician and tapping into the commercial
grid system. “HME” recommends connecting to your commercial utility
(electrical company) as opposed to only utilizing the Inverter.
**HME strongly recommends: Always check with your local

jurisdiction for rules and regulations regarding having a “grid-tied”
electrical system BEFORE you attempt to connect your PV system to
the local utility!
28
Kilowatt Per Hour Meter: If you currently receive electricity
from a commercial system and are tied to the grid, then this meter probably
already exists on your home. This meter monitors the energy entering and
exiting your home. If you are using less energy than you are producing, you
will witness this meter moving backwards.
Different Types of Solar Energy Systems
As we stated earlier, there are a variety of solar energy systems that you can
build yourself. It is important to take the time to evaluate your energy needs
to determine which system will work best to reduce your electricity costs
and your dependence on fossil fuels and commercial produced energy.
*See Chapter 1, Page 16: “Load Calculation Sheet.”
A portable photovoltaic system is a simple power supply that can operate

just about anything you can think of. It is a great system for camps and
camping trips and the best part is that it costs between $200 - $500.00 to
assemble at home. This system easily pays for itself in a few short months.
The components and the order of their connections for this simple system
are:
1. Energy source or PV Panels
2. Charge controller
3. Deep Cycle Battery
4. Inverter
29
An on-grid solar power system is what most households that are already
tied to commercial grid power opt to use. This utility interactive solar
electric system can actually pay back in some energy efficient households
where the solar system generates more electricity than is being used by the
home through net metering. It is also important to mention that with this
system, if your power from the commercial grid is interrupted, you will not
have power in the home. You will need to consult your local electricity
provider and state regulatory agency for more information on net metering in
your area. Although a “Grid-Tied” PV System can create “net metering”,
that should NOT be the primary reason to install a PV System for your
home!
The components and the order of their connections for this solar power
system are:
1. Energy source or PV Panels
2. Array DC Disconnect
3. Inverter
4. AC Breaker Panel
5. Kilowatt Per Hour Meter
6. Grid tie in
30
An on-grid system with battery back-up is the same as the grid system,
but has additional battery elements for storing energy. This stored battery
power will be used in times when the sun is not available such as a cloudy or
rainy day or when power from the grid is interrupted.
system are:
1. Energy Source or PV panels
3. Charge Controller
5. System Meter
6. Main DC Disconnect
7. Inverter
8. AC Breaker Panel
9. Kilowatt Per Hour Meter
10. Grid Tie In
31
The off-grid solar energy system is a popular choice for remote locations
where the cost of running commercial electricity would be too great or too
intrusive on the landscape. This is also the option chosen by those
individuals who do not wish to see that monthly electric bill in their
mailboxes. The generator is included in this system to charge batteries in
situations when there is not enough sun exposure to produce the home or
business’ electricity needs.
system are:
1. Energy Source or PV Panels
3. Charge Controller
5. System Meter
32
6. Main DC Disconnect
7. Inverter
8. Generator
9. AC Breaker Panel
Other Good Information To Know:
Refrigerators and other large appliances are great to run on a simple portable
solar generator system. You will be pleasantly surprised at the amount of
energy you can save by running your large appliances like the refrigerator or
electric stove and microwave from a simple system.
Battery boxes are an important element in colder climates as batteries

operate best in warm temperatures. Battery boxes also help to keep your
overall system clean, organized and safer for households with small children
or animals about.
33
Below is a simplified graphic of residential Photovoltaic (PV) System:
34
CHAPTER 4: SOLAR PANELS: TO SALVAGE,
BUY OR BUILD
How you acquire the solar panels for your solar electric system will
probably be largely dependent on your financial situation. Those with the
money to purchase the best top of the line panels or photovoltaic cells will
probably see the best conversion of energy, but there are other options for
those who cannot make this large of an investment. The next section will
open your eyes to alternatives to purchasing new panels.
Obtaining Free Solar Panels
Our years of experience in setting up solar electric systems on all kinds of

budgets have given us a keen eye for locating parts for our systems at
enormous discounts and one of the best secrets we have learned we are
going to share with you right here. It is possible to get your solar panels,
without paying a penny or almost nothing.
You are in no way obligated to go this route and the demand in your area
may be so high that you are unable to use our methods, but we are always
searching for ways to save money and we enjoy sharing our secrets.
Chances are that you have seen the solar powered construction and road
signs during your travels on roadways or highways through or near your
towns. If you never took notice, it is time to start. These signs, if you can
believe it, get damaged. Whether by drunk and careless drivers or from
some roadside construction mishap, many of these signs are returned to the
maintenance shop every year.
(please note the solar panels at top)
35
To find out where the damaged solar powered traffic signs are going you
will need to get close to the sign and look for the sticker (usually on a side
that gets little to no rain exposure) and locate a phone number of the
company that rented the sign or maybe of the construction company that
owns the sign.
We suggest writing this number down, but if you trust your memory, then
make a mental note of it. You will want to call this number and seek out the
person who maintains these signs. Once you are in contact with the correct
individual, you can inquire about getting damaged panels from them.
Now, obviously they are not going to give away undamaged panels for free.
Usually the panels you can get from these businesses either have cracks or
are damaged slightly in some other way. These panels will not work 100%,
but they still work well enough to produce your energy needs.
Many of these damaged panels can be repaired to improve their efficiency.

You can seal cracks and solder wiring. It is a good idea to leave your name
and number with the company you have contacted and have them call you
whenever they have solar panels available.
Another excellent source of free panels is with solar energy system

companies. Many people with solar powered homes and businesses will
invest in newer, more efficient panels as they become available. The older
panels are removed by the services company and often times they are
discarded, as they are out-of-date and do not have much value in resale.
This is your opportunity to get what are often damage-free, free solar panels.
They may not be the top of the line models, but they usually still work just
fine. It is definitely worth your time to make contact with your local solar
power companies and ask if they have any old panels.
Purchasing PV Panels at a Discount
Depending on the popularity of the use of alternative energy in your area,

you may not be able to get in on the “free panel express”, but that still
doesn’t mean you need to spend thousands of dollars on your solar panels.
Getting panels at discounts is still better than paying top dollar.
The first opportunities to get discounted panels are from the same sources
you just read about. You can offer to purchase the slightly damaged or used
36
panels from companies who would normally just discard the materials. You
could also make contact with homeowners that you pass who may be having
their panels replaced.
Another great place to shop for discounted panels is through your local
newspapers, trade magazines and local online communities, like virtual flea
markets and virtual yard sales. Searching the Internet for used solar panels
is another way to find panels, but be aware of scams.
If all your efforts leave you empty handed, then it may be time to turn to
http://www.ebay.com . We have taken the time to pull together all of our
own sources of solar panels, used and new, and offer them for purchase on
Ebay. You can still purchase panels for far less than you would pay from a
large company. Please Note: You will need to open an on-line account with
ebay in order to purchase items on ebay. The process is simple and in a few
minutes you should have your account set up and ready to go.
Once your account is set up, you can visit the following link to view all of
the solar panels for sale:
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/ebaysolarpanel.
(Prices dictate “quality of PV cells”. So be sure and read specifications before you bid /
buy the PV cells)
37
Building Your Own Panels
The next chapter will go into the details of building your own panels to a
much greater extent. For now, we want to assure you that even the most
unhandy of people can successfully build a working solar panel for a
fraction of the cost of purchasing a new panel.
Before we tell you the how, we are going to review the what. Below is a list
of pieces and parts that you will need to build your own solar panels. Again,
the next chapter will cover, in detail, how to use these parts to build your
own panels. It is important to be familiar with the terminology before we
get started.
Solar Cells: You can purchase solar cells from many online and possibly
local retailers. We suggest for your first project that you use undamaged
cells, but purchasing damaged cells is less expensive for obvious reasons
and if you have the correct tools you can fix them yourself. Damaged and
Undamaged cells can easily be purchased from Ebay. For a complete list of
undamaged affordable solar cells visit
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/ebaysolarcells.
Strong Plywood: Plywood can be used as the backing plate for your solar
panel to hold the PV cells. You don’t need to purchase expensive hardwoods,
as we will be putting a protective UV coating on it anyway. This is not
about vanity; it is about function. In addition to the plywood back panel,
you will need to have wood to make the frame, which will hold the Plexiglas
38
cover over the cells. This wood frame should be thick enough so that it will
not splinter when it is drilled into or nailed.
Plexiglas: Another option is a ¼ inch acrylic panel (Plexiglas) which can

be used for the bottom panel. The Plexiglas is a little more expensive than
the plywood, but you will save money and time by not needing the UV
coating or the labor to apply it.
This Plexiglas will be used to cover the cells and protect your panel from the
elements. You should select a Plexiglas that is at least 1/4 inch thick. It
should be available at your local plastics store and they will usually cut the
piece to your exact size. You should purchase the 2 sheets of Plexiglas at the
same time (white for the bottom and clear for the top) so the measurements
will be exact. Metal “C” channel can be used as a frame if you use an acrylic
top and bottom.
White for the Bottom Clear for the Top “C” Channel for the frame
Tin Coated Tabbing Wire: This is a flat silver wire that is used to connect
the solar cells together. It is used in coordination with the solder iron or
solder gun and melts easily to connect to the solar cells. You will need two
different sizes of wire with the thinner wire being used to connect each cell
together and the thicker wire used to join the different rows of cells together.
39
(back to Pg 42)
Silicone: Silicone is used to attach the solar cells to our plywood or

Plexiglas backing and to help seal and attach our Plexiglas cover as well.
Solder: Solder will be used to attach the copper wire to the back of each
solar cell. It may also be needed to hold down some of the tin coated wire
that does not stay down on its own.
Solder Iron Solder Gun

40
Rosin Flux Pen: This “pen” is used to apply flux to the PV cells and tinning
wire so the solder will adhere to the tabbing wire PV cells. Definition of
Flux: a substance used to promote fusion (as of metals or minerals); especially :
one (as rosin) applied to surfaces to be joined by soldering, brazing, or welding to
clean and free them from oxide and promote their union
(Back to Pg 42)
UV Protector: All of the wood in your project should be coated with the
UV protector. This will improve the durability of the panel which is exposed
daily to the sun. UV Guard can be found at your local hardware store and is
often referred to as deck and fence coating. If you use acrylic (Plexiglas) in
your project, there is no need to use UV protection.
41
Volt Meter: You will use this to test the power output of the PV cells as you
solder them together. As each cell is connected together you can check the
power output to determine if the cells are functioning properly. The voltage
should increase as each cell is connected. These are also available at your
local hardware store. You will use the meter with the “test leads” connected
as shown to measure voltage. (HME strongly recommends that you read and
follow ALL of the manufacturer’s operator’s and instruction manual
directions!)
Amp Meter: You can use the same meter above to test the amperage
output of the PV cells after you built your panel. Please Note: the graphic
above shows the test leads inserted to test for “voltage”. In order to use this
meter to test for “amps” you will need to remove the red lead from its
current location and insert into the red port above it. You will also need to
turn the selector dial to the DC Amp selection. In order to test for amperage
using this type of meter, you must get in series with the circuit to measure
the amount of amps the panel is producing. These are also available at your
local hardware store. (HME strongly recommends that you read and follow
ALL of the manufacturer’s operator’s and instruction manual directions!)
42
CHAPTER 5: HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN SOLAR
PANEL
NOW, it is time to get started building your very own solar panels. At this
point, you should be familiar with the materials and tools necessary for your
project. If not, please review earlier chapters of this book until you feel
comfortable with the project.
OK! Let’s start generating electricity from the sun’s energy!
Step One: The typical solar cell generates about .55 volts DC with
approximately 4 Amps of power per cell. Therefore, when properly
connected, each PV solar cell should produce about 2.2 Watts of electrical
energy. We arrive at this conclusion from the following equation:
Watts (Power) = Volts (Electromotive force) x Amps (Intensity).

Simplified, this equation becomes: P = E x I (see Ohm’s Law, page 12)
• Since a single cell produces approximately .55 volts DC (E) and the
typical cell produces approximately 4 amps (I), the net effect is that
each PV cell should produce approximately 2.2 Watts of electrical
energy per cell (.55volts (E) X 4amps(I) = 2.2Watts (P). Therefore,
2.2 Watts per cell x 36 cells per panel = approximately 80 Watts per
Solar Panel.
• The common method is to connect the required number of PV solar
panels together into an Array which will generate the necessary watts
of electricity. (IE: If you need 1,000 watts of power ÷ 80 watts/panel
you will need to build 12 to 13 panels) You will then connect all of
the panels together to create your PV Array.

Do Not believe the bogus claims of other websites
that say you can build enough PV panels in a “single
weekend” to take your home off the Grid!
43
Knowing this, it is time to cut your plywood or plastic backing to the size of
your panel. If you are constructing a small panel to operate a pond pump or
something of that nature, then you may not need a full sized 36-cell panel. If
you need more than 80 watts, you will need to tie multiple 36-cell panels
together and we will explain how to do this later in this chapter.
Before you get your plywood or Plexiglas material cut for this project, it is a
good idea to “layout” how you are going to place the PV cells on the panel
backplane.
Since we now know that we need a 36 PV cell panel, we can use the
following information to “layout” our PV panel. (Please Note: the dimensions of
the PV cells you are using may different than this example. Therefore, you will need to
“adjust” your measurements accordingly. This is for example ONLY!)
Solar Panel Layout
•The Backplane is 24” W X 54” L
• The Solar Cells are 5” X 5”:
4 Cells across X 5” = 20”
Add 1/4” between each cell
= ¼” X 3 = ¾” + 20” =
20 ¾” W
So, 24” minus 20 ¾” = 3 ¼”
split between both sides
9 Cells down X 5” = 45”
Add 1/4” between each cell
= ¼” X 8 = 2” + 45” = 47” L
So, 54” minus 47” = 7” split
between both ends.
44
The reason for the ¼” space on all sides of each cell is to give the panel a
nice, professional appearance when finished. Please note: that this “36 cell
PV panel is actually made up of four (4) 9 cell “stringers”.
Step Two: Now, it is time to protect our plywood backing from the effects
of the sun by applying three coats of UV Guard. Once you have done that,
you will need to “layout” the measurements for the PV cells on the panel.
Marking “grid lines” on the back panel will aid in keeping the individual PV
cells straight and orderly for the panel. (Please see graphic below for “layout
example)
Step Two-A: Acrylic backing does not need UV protection. So, if you are
using Plexiglas panels, now is the time to measure and draw “grid lines” to
locate your PV cells.
45
Step Three: We are now ready to connect our solar cells together. *PV cells
are very fragile! Handle with care! (Instead of placing the cells on the floor,
use a card table with a board laid on top of the table to place the cells on).
Depending on the brand or type of PV cell you use for your project, you may
find a small “tab” on the back (positive + side) of each cell. First you want
to apply rosin , then a small drop of solder onto each of these tabs. This can
be accomplished by using a pencil style solder iron or a small solder gun.
Placing the solder here now will make connecting the tab wires to the cells
much easier later.
**Note: In the following steps, when connecting the tab wires to the solar
cells, apply rosin from your Flux Pen along the solder points before you
actually solder the cells together. The rosin from the Flux Pen will insure a
good solder connection.
Measure the PV cell.
5” ¼” 5” = 10 ¼”
5”
(Picture not drawn to scale)
In the example above, each PV cell = 5” X 5” with ¼” between them.

Therefore, 2 cells side by side equals 10” + 1/4” of space between them for
a total of 10 1/4”. However, you will want to leave ¼” free space at the
end of each PV cell to allow for variances in the tab wire lengths. This
equals to ½” total tab wire NOT NEEDED. So, 10 ¼” minus ½” = 9 ¾”
long per tab wire . Since we will need 2 tab wires per cell X the number of
cells on the panel (36) the total number of 9 ¾ “ long tab wires needed to
be cut will be 72. (2 tab wires per cell X 36cells = 72 tab wires) .
Please Note this example is “NOT drawn to scale”. This is only for an
example. If you have 36 cells, you will need 72 tab wires cut in advance.
The length of your tab wires will be determined by the actual size of the
PV cells you are using in your panel!
46
Step Four: After you have cut the 72 tab wires needed to connect you PV
cells together, you can start attaching the tab wires to the individual PV cells.
It does not matter if you solder the tab wires to the front side (shiny/ negative
- side) or the back side (dull/positive + side) of the PV cells first. BUT,
whichever side of the PV cell you start with, we at HME recommend that
you solder the tab wires to the same side on all of the PV cells BEFORE you
start to connect (solder) one cell to another.
At least solder tab wires to 9 PV cells on the same side, since this is the
number of cells needed to create your first stringer.
This graphic represents 2 tab wires soldered to the “front side” (negative - side) of each
PV cell. Please note, we have prepared 9 PV cells so we can create the first of four
stingers. In this example, the tab wires have been attached to the “shiny” side which is the
negative - side of the PV cell!
The actual length of the tab wire attached to the PV cell should be as displayed here so
the extra length of tab wire can be attached to the opposite side (back side) of the PV cell
next to it:
Once you have soldered two tab wires to each PV cell, all on the same side,
it is time to connect the individual PV cells together.
Now, you will need to turn all nine (9) of your solar cells over so that the
back /dull side (positive + side) is facing “up” and the shiny side with the
tab wires attached is facing “down”. You are now going to solder the 2
pieces of the tab wire attached to front side of the PV cell to the back side of
PV cell next to it.
47
The dull (Positive + ) side is facing up in this graphic. Dashed lines represent tab wires on the front side of
PV cell. These 9 PV cells are ready to be joined together to create the stringer.
Step Five: You will connect the excess tab wire from the first PV cell to the
back of the following cell as depicted in the diagram below. It is very
similar to weaving the tab wires between the cells. The front of cell #1
connects to the back of cell #2 in the series and the front of cell #2 connects
to the back of cell #3 and so on through the series. Solder the 2 tab wires
from the front side (negative -) of each cell to the back side (positive +) side
of its neighbor.
free space
Front of Back of
Cell #1 Cell #2
Dashed line represents tab wire Tab Wire

on the front side of PV cell
free space
48
In this graphic, the PV cells are connected in a “series” of nine (9) cells @
.55 volts DC each. So, a single stringer should produce approx. 4.95 VDC.
This graphic represents 9 PV cells “woven” together. That is, Front to Back , Front to Back, etc.
This a view from the side representing the “electrical connections of the PV cells
connected by tab wires. The silver color represents the tab wires and the blue color
represents the PV cells.
Step Six: Once you have all nine (9) cells in the row connected, you will
have created the first of the four stringers you need to have in order to
produce the 80 watt PV panel. Now that you have the first stringer
completed, that would be a good time to take the stringer out into the sun
and see if your first stringer is producing the expected 4.9 – 5.0 Volts DC.
Be sure to use your Volt/Ohm meter to test the stringer for proper DC
voltage. It doesn’t make any sense to create any more stringers until you
have verified that your construction methods are successful on the first one.
It is a good practice to check each and every stringer for its output as you
build them .
49
This Solar Panel has three (3) stringers of 6 PV cells each. The key
point is to “check” each stringer as you create them to verify that the
stringer is producing the expected DC voltage!
Step Seven: After you have created all four of the nine (9) cell stringers,
you will need to connect all four of the stringers in series so that all 36 cells
(4 stringers X 9 cells per stringer = 36) are connected in “electrical series”
to produce approximately 20 Volts DC power. When we say the stringers
are connected in “electrical series”, that means that the stringers must go
from positive to negative to positive to negative and so on throughout the
panel connecting each row. Utilizing the series connection method will
increase the voltage output of your panel by adding the voltage of each PV
cell to arrive at a cumulative voltage of approximately 19 – 20 volts DC.
To better understand the connection process, please refer to the diagram
below and watch our video at: www.homemadeenergy.com/panel_layout
50
The graphic above is an example of how the final PV panel should look.
Step Eight: At this point, you should have all four of the stringers
produced and ready to attach them to your plywood or acrylic backing.
Make sure you have laid out the necessary grid lines to assist in placing the
stringers onto the PV panel backing plate. Once your grid lines are ready, we
suggest you use a small amount of silicon to hold the cells in place. It really
doesn’t take much silicon at all, just enough to stick the cells to the plywood
or acrylic backing. You may apply the silicone adhesive any way that you
want, but here is a suggested application technique that HME has found to
be effective.
51
Use the grid lines as guide lines and place narrow width masking tape on the
lengthwise grid lines.
1. Lay down the masking tape
2. Spread out the Silicon on the board in between the masking tape
strips. Use a plastic trowel to spread the beads of silicon over the 1st
and 2nd stringer area.
3. After the silicone has been spread out, remove the masking tape. This
will produce a “nice, clean line” for the placement of each stringer.
4. Continue this process until you have “set” all four of the stringers.
52
Step Nine: Now that you have connected the cells to create stringers and
joined the stringers together to create your solar panel, you should have
ended up with two end wires. One wire for the Positive + end and one wire
for the Negative – end. These wires will need to go through the plywood or
acrylic backing where they will terminate inside a junction box on the back
of the panel. Caution: If you use the bare tabbing wire for the end wires,
you will need to drill two separate holes through the backing, as these
wires should not be touching or at risk of touching. If you decide to use
insulated conductors for the Positive + and Negative – connections (ie: #10
AWG , THHN insulation or similar wire), you could use a single hole in the
back panel as the insulation on the wires will prevent any electrical “short
circuits” from occurring.
53
Step Ten: The next step is to place a sheet of plexiglas over the PV cells for
protection. After the Plexiglas is fitted to your panel, it is necessary to
install wood trim to hold the Plexiglas in place. You should use silicon to
attach the frame to the backing and then screw the frame pieces tight to the
back. The silicon will help to prevent water from getting inside the solar
panel.
Please Note:
The wood trim is
securing the Plexiglas
covering. For example
only: the Plexiglas is
shown covering approx.
2/3 of the PV panel. This
is for explanation and
discussion ONLY. You
will want to cover the PV
panel 100% of the surface
area. This is only for
example to point out the
presence of the Plexiglas
covering.
The “red” arrow is
pointing out no Plexiglas
while the “yellow” arrow
is pointing out the
Plexiglas covering.
Step Ten - A: If you are using acrylic on the back and front instead of
plywood, you may want to use metal “C Frame” channel around the solar
cells as it weighs much less and would be more aesthetically pleasing. These
“C” channels are available at most home improvement stores. “C” Channel
can be purchased in ¼”, 3/8” or ½” widths for the frame edge. Cut the ends
at 45 degrees to give a nice clean professional appearance.
54
After cutting the frame, measure out the number of screws needed per side
and mark the channel. Drill out the channel where the screws will be placed.
After all screw holes have been made in the channel, place the “C” channel
on the panel, fit the channel together and mark the “spots” on the acrylic or
wood panel for each screw hole in the channel.
55
Please use the following graphic as a reference to Steps11 – 13
Step 12: Use Silicon to “waterproof” your panel by sealing

up all the corners on the “C” channel and the holes for the
Pos + & Neg - wires.
Step 11: Use these

“drilled holes” as
guides to drill thru
the Plexiglas.
Step 13: Drill

breather hole(s)
in bottom of
panel to allow
moisture /
condensation to
escape!
56
Step Eleven: As your panel is coming together quickly now, it is time to
place the Plexiglas over the top of your panel. You can use the same silicon
for attaching the Plexiglass as you did other parts of your solar panel, but
you will also need to drill and screw down your Plexiglass cover. Do not
drill directly through the Plexiglass, as this could cause it to crack or break.
Place the Plexiglas on the PV panel. Next, place the “C” channel on the
panel as it will be permanently attached. Next, use the existing drilled holes
in the “C” channel as guides as you drill thru the Plexiglas. (See red arrows
in graphic above)
Step Twelve: You are getting close to the end, the next step is to seal up the
holes around the two wires you ran through the back of your panel. These
are your positive and negative wires and these holes need to be sealed with
silicon. This is a great time to examine your panel for other holes or cracks
that need sealing as well such as the corner joints of the “C” channel. (See
yellow arrows in graphic above)
Step Thirteen: The final major step in building your own solar panel is to
drill a “breather” hole(s) in the bottom of the panel away from where your
positive and negative wires exit the panel. This hole will aid in preventing
moisture build up inside of your solar panel. Of course, be sure that you are
drilling your whole in the bottom of your panel or it will only fill up with
water. (See burnt orange arrows in graphic above)
Step Fourteen: You are now ready to join electrical wire to the panel’s
junction box. This wiring will later connect to your charge controller if you
are using a battery bank. You will need to choose the correct wiring
dependent on your anticipated amperage. Your wiring and junction box can
be purchased from your local electronics shop.
There will be more about battery wiring configurations later in the book, but
you just did it. You built your first solar panel. Take a moment to pat
yourself on the back. You are on your way to energy independence.
57
CHAPTER 6: MAINTAINING YOUR PANELS
Now that you have completed your first panel, it is important to know how
to care for and maintain it so it produces energy for years to come. Or at
least until your next solar panel building project. Below is a list of
maintenance items that should be performed yearly on your panels if not
more often.
1. You should check that the levels on your photovoltaic units. You want to
be sure that your load is not exceeding the ratings of any of the other
parts of your solar electricity system.
2. Take the time to tighten all of your array’s terminals and inspect your
system for loose or broken wire connections.
3. Check your charge controller, if your system utilizes one. Make sure that
it is still securely in its place and inspect for dirt, insects and repairs.
More importantly, make certain that the airflow around your charge
controller is plentiful and not blocked in any way.
4. Make sure that there is no water collecting under the panel cover.
5. Clean your panels with a non-abrasive cleaner and paper towels or a
reusable shami-cloth. This maintenance may need to be performed
several times a year depending on how much road dust is in your panel
environment.
Pretty simple. That is one of the best features of going solar; there is limited
maintenance involved. Just remember that the amount of energy your panel
will create is directly related to the intensity of the sunlight it receives. If
your panel is dirty, the sun’s energy is not going to get through.
Use of these regular maintenance tips and regular inspections and test of
your system will guarantee you maximum performance of your solar
electricity system.
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CHAPTER 7: HOW WIND POWER WORKS
We learned lots about solar electric systems, but the sun is not our only
source of renewable energy. Wind is another viable, renewable energy
resource that can provide electricity to our homes and businesses, while
reducing our carbon footprint and the use of fossil fuels. In the case of wind
power systems, we are using the force of the wind to generate electricity
instead of capturing energy from the sun.
Wind and solar systems complement each other very well and can be
combined to increase your alternative energy supply. Before you consider
investing in a wind energy system, however, it is important to determine if
your location offers sufficient environmental conditions to harvest wind
power. Just as you would not put a solar panel in the shade, you wouldn’t
want your wind turbine in a low turbulence area.
To calculate whether or not a wind turbine would be a cost effective

alternative to commercial energy usage, you will need to look again at your
energy costs or the cost to operate your household or business appliances
daily and wind speed. There is a basic 10mph average wind speed rule that
applies to the effectiveness of a wind energy system. If you property only
experiences a breeze or two a day or rarely sees winds over 3mph, then a
wind energy system may not be the best alternative energy system for you.
Parts Of A Wind Turbine
A wind energy system consists of three basic parts:
Rotor Blades: These blades are driven by the wind and their rotation is
used to transfer energy from the wind.
Shaft: When the blades of a wind energy system move, they cause the shaft
of the wind energy system to rotate as well; this transforms mechanical
energy into electrical energy by using the DC voltage generator.
Generator: This generator is not to be confused with the type of generator

used in the solar off-grid systems. This type of generator produces energy
through electromagnetic induction. Magnets are rotated around the
conductor and electricity is produced. This was used in the automotive
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industry before the introduction of the alternator.
A wind energy system is very simple in concept and design. As wind power
rotates the magnetic field around the coil, atoms and electrons are displaced,
ultimately creating electricity from kinetic energy.
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CHAPTER 8: TO BUY OR BUILD YOUR WIND
ENERGY SYSTEM
Wind energy is becoming more popular and the cost of production on wind
turbine and wind energy systems has been greatly reduced over the last
several years. Not to mention that today’s wind systems are growing more
efficient with each passing day. This is apparent as we see more windmills
cresting mountaintops and along our shorelines; not to mention, the familiar
wind farms that are occupying unused acreage in many cities across the US.
The simplicity of wind turbine/wind energy systems is so great that it can

make the decision to buy or build a tough one. The first thing to understand
when you are making this decision is that all wind energy systems have the
same basic components. They all have blades, a generator, a mounting, and
tower and control system.
The difference in between purchased prefabricated wind turbines and those

that you can make yourself is going to be in the aerodynamics. If you are
planning to supplement the majority of your home’s energy needs then it
more likely that you should look into prefabricated turbines. If you are
simply looking to reduce your energy dependency, more so than eliminate it,
or to supply an outbuilding or pond with electricity, then a do-it-yourself
wind energy system may suffice.
For those of you who are looking for a wind energy system that can supply
your whole home with electricity, you will need a rather large turbine system
that starts at around $5,000 and easily exceed $25,000. This depends on
where and how you purchase your system. These systems will generally
reduce your utility bills by around 70% and will usually show a return on
investment in about 10 years.
It is completely possible to build your own wind turbines and energy

systems for less than the $5,000, but you will need to have the correct
environmental conditions for harvesting wind energy.
We will go into detail in the next chapter on how to build your own wind
energy system, but let’s start with the terminology, necessary parts and tools
you will need to build your own wind turbine.
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DC Power Motor: Generally speaking, DC motors were designed to use
power, but when you turn the motor in the opposite direction, it will generate
electricity. It is the simplicity of the DC motor that makes it ideal for
building your own wind turbine system.
DC motors are found in a variety of small tools like drills. What you are
looking for specifically is a surplus permanent magnet DC motor. It is often
possible to find used DC motors in old power tools or you can search the
Internet for deals on DC motors as well. Ebay generally has a good
selection and you will need to purchase a DC motor that is the correct size
for your system. DC motors generally run between $30-$70.
When purchasing a DC motor, you will want to pay attention to the RPMs,
shaft size, amps and voltage. You are looking for low RPMs, because when
a DC motor is used as a generator (or the motor is turned in the opposite
direction to produce electricity), the motor must spin much faster than the
rated RPMs to produce the proper voltage.
It would be ideal to find a motor rated under 400 RPMs at 30 volts, which
when used as a generator will produce about 12 volts of power when rotating
at 200 RPMs. Your goal is to obtain a DC motor with high voltage, high
current and low RPMs. If you do not have strong winds in your area, then
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you want to find a DC motor with extremely low RPMs.
We suggest the following DC motors which are often available online and on
Ebay:
1150 RPM 38 VDC Ametek motor
For areas with lower wind speeds, we suggest:
Ametek 30 VDC motor
TailPiece: The tailpiece is very important for not only maintaining balance,
but also for ensuring that the blades maintain their maximum efficiency.
Blades: Your blades are the most valuable part of the system as they are
what will actually be collecting the wind’s energy for your wind energy
system. Most efficient wind turbines consist of 3 blades and it is very
important that the shape and weight of each blade is the same. We will look
closer at the size and shape to make your blades in the next chapter when
you are ready to actually build your wind turbine.
We suggest that you use construct your blade out of ABS or PVC pipe. The
pipe should be protected with UV guard, as they are generally not designed
for long-term exposure to the sun.
Hub: A hub is what is used to connect your blades to your DC motor. This
part is easily found at a hardware store, online or even in a local junk yard.
Your hub can be any circular piece of metal or alloy, but it should be quite
strong and you should be able to drill a hole through its center when the time
comes. If you prefer to make your own hub, we have included a template in
the next chapter on building your own wind turbine.
Tower: Obviously, the tower is what will hold your wind turbine in the
winds path. Old satellite towers work great for this application or even a
simple 3” steel pipe. You want your tower to be between 8 and 12 feet tall
and easily anchorable to the ground with concrete. Just bear in mind that
your tower must be sturdy enough to hold your wind tower in high winds.
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Horizontal Axis: This is more of a concept than a working part of your
wind system. This is the part of your tower that allows your windmill to
spin horizontally to effectively gather the wind energy, whatever direction it
may be blowing.
Battery Bank: Just as you needed with the solar energy system, a wind
energy system requires deep cycle batteries as well. These batteries will be
used to store the energy generated by your wind turbine.
Batteries can be purchased new either locally or online or you can often find
free batteries from area businesses that utilize this type of battery for their
machines like golf carts and forklifts.
If you need to recondition an old deep cycle battery, we suggest using this
guide, as battery acid is a nasty thing and exploding batteries are even more
dangerous:
Charge Controller : A control charger prevents your

battery bank from becoming overloaded. Although not a necessary element,
we strongly suggest that you plan to use a charge controller in your wind
energy system.
Dump Load: A dump load is where all the extra power generated by your
system is directed. There are a variety of appliances that can be used to
catch dump loads and those with heating elements such as hot water heaters
are a great place to send your extra energy. It is also possible to just send
excess power to a ground wire.
AC Inverter : If you are using your wind generated

electricity to power AC appliances within the home, business or where ever,
you are going to need an AC inverter.
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As described in the solar power section, you can locate an inverter easily and
affordably online. You will need to purchase the correct size inverter for
your power needs.
Wire: The gauge of wire you will need for this system will depend on the
materials you have chosen to use and their power output.
Miscellaneous: The rest of the materials you will need are in the nature of
nuts and bolts and other hardware type of items. All of which can be found
and purchased at a local hardware store or online. These are generally
inexpensive items and you may have some in your home already.
Tools: The tools you will need for sure are a socket set, various sized and
type screwdrivers, a grinder, jigsaw and some sandpaper.
Now that you are familiar with your parts and tools, let’s move forward to
building your own wind turbine.
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CHAPTER 9: BUILD YOUR OWN WIND TURBINE
You now know what parts you need and the best places to find them, so it is
time to get started on building your own wind turbine. To build a wind
turbine, you will need ample space like a shed, garage or basement. If you
do build parts of your turbine indoors, you may have to assemble it outdoors.
Step One: Our first step is to build our hub. As we told you earlier you can
use any scrap piece of circular metal to build your hub or you can cut a hub
using the template we are providing below. Your hub must fit tightly around
the shaft of your DC motor so that when the wind turns your blades, it also
turns your motor. To accomplish this, you want to drill a hole in the center
of your hub that is the exact same size as the shaft on your DC motor.
You may also use a coupling either welded or bolted to the center of the hub
that the motor shaft can slide into holding the shaft in place.
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Step Two: First we need to construct our blades. As we said earlier, most
efficient wind power systems feature 3 blades. The ideal diameter of your
blades should be 6ft, but if this is too large for your project we suggest not
making them less than 4ft in diameter, as their efficiency will be greatly
reduced. A good rule of thumb to remember is that your windmill must spin
to generate electricity so you want your blades to offer a surface area that is
large enough to be caught and moved by the wind.
Earlier we told you to get 8” to 12” ABS or PV pipe. You can use an angle
grinder or a jigsaw to begin cutting your blades. First you will want to cut
your pipe into a 3 ft length and then cut your pipe down the center and then
across the center to make it into quarters.
Once the pipe is cut into quarters, it is time to shape your blades. You can
use the measurements from the diagram below. The wide part of the blade is
what will catch your wind energy and turn your turbine. The narrow 2” end
is where the blade will move quickly in our wind.
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Once you have your blade cut out, you will need to do some sanding and
grinding to make your edges smooth, essentially making your blade
aerodynamic. You also want to make your trailing edge (the lower edge
which is 3 ft long in the upper diagram; your leading edge is on the opposite
side of the blade) sharp and angled to reduce drag. Use an angle grinder to
make the angled edge and then sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots.
Continue on each of the three blades. Remember you want your blades to be
as close to identical as possible in both shape and weight.
Step Three: Now we need to drill holes into the end of our blades that will
connect to our hub (the 3in. End). Whether you are going to use our hub
template (shown above in actual size) or using your own hub from scrap
metal, this is the simple task of lining up the blades with the hub and
marking where to drill your holes. As shown below (exact measurements
are for use with the provided template):
Continue with the next two blades.
Step Four: Now that your blades are complete, it is important to give them
a light sanding all over, this will help the paint and/or UV guard stick to the
blades.
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Step Five: You are now ready to attach the blades to the hub. You can do
this using flat steel bars that are about a foot long and 2” wide. These bars
will also add to the strength of your wind turbine.
Step Six: Now it is time to balance the hub and blades. This is probably
one of the most important steps in the process. If your turbine is out of
balance, you can damage your motor and will have greatly reduced energy
production.
First, you will want to number each blade with a pen. Then place the turbine
on a pole that is suspended horizontally and give the blades a good spin.
Make a note of which blade is at the bottom when the turbine stops spinning.
Repeat this test 10 times, if one blade continuously or more often than not,
ends on the bottom, it probably weighs more than the other two blades.
The easiest fix for a heavy blade is to shave part of the steel connecting bar
away with a metal grinder. Repeat your test to see if the balance has
improved.
Step Seven: You are now ready to mount your hub assembly to the DC
motor. It is important that the hub fits tightly and securely on the motor
shaft.
Place the shaft of the DC motor through the center hole in the hub. Once the
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hub is on the shaft tightly, drill a hole into the shaft and put a bolt or cotter
pin through it. This will ensure that the hub will not travel or vibrate off the
shaft and that the hub does not shake back and forth damaging the shaft or
motor when the blades turn, especially in high winds.
Step Eight: Next, we are going to construct our tail shaft. As we said
earlier, this part of our wind turbine is important for both balance and to
ensure that your blades are in the wind to generate energy.
We suggest that your tail be between 3’ and 4’. A tail can be any shape, but
you need to make sure that it is large enough to catch the wind. We suggest
making your tail out of metal, but plywood works as well. If you do use
plywood it should be coated with the UV guard to add extra protection.
Step Nine: It is now time to take a look at our tower and prepare the
horizontal axis upon which our tail shaft will attach. Your tower should have
a smaller shaft at the top as in the illustration below. If your tower does not
have this smaller diameter shaft at the top, then you will need to weld this
piece onto your original tower.
You will want to make sure that the width of this tower extension is not
wider than your tail shaft as you will be drilling a hole in the tail and sliding
it over the top of the tower.
Step Ten: Now that the tower is ready, let’s attach the tail shaft. As we
stated earlier we want to drill a hole in our tail shaft that matches the
diameter of our tower extension.
You will first want to measure the height of your tail and drill a hole in the
shaft extension to match this height. Essentially, you want to secure the tail
to the shaft as you did the hub to the DC motor shaft so that it does not travel
or move when the wind catches and moves it. See illustration below:
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So, you will drill your hole at the correct height on your extension, slide
your tail onto the shaft and then insert a bolt into the hole on the shaft
extension to keep the tail from moving. The tail should spin freely. A little
grease can be used to help this occur.
Step Eleven: There is a disadvantage to our current design. There is

nothing to stop our tail from spinning around the shaft multiple times thus
tangling our wiring and eventually damaging our wind turbine and making it
ineffective. Consequently, we must add a stop mechanism to the unit.
The most cost effective fix for this is to place one bolt on the axis you just
installed and then a second on the tower. Loosely connect a bungee cord
around the intersection of the tower and tail using the bolts to secure its
position. This will limit the tails movement from spinning completely
around, but still allow it to perform its function of correcting for maximum
wind exposure. See the illustrations below:
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Step Twelve: The last step is to wire our system. As we told you earlier, it
is best to contact an electrician for the correct wire to use or to use the guide
we provided online.
You will want to wire your system in the following order:
DC Motor -- Charge Controller -- Battery Pack -- AC Inverter
Step Thirteen: Once you have your wiring complete you are ready to put
up your tower and turbine and start generating your very own electricity
from the wind. Remember to secure your tower with concrete or cables to
ensure it does not get damaged during high winds.
You have completed your first wind energy system. Don’t be afraid to get
creative with your design, just be safe.
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CHAPTER 10: UNDERSTANDING
HYDROELECTRIC POWER
Hydroelectric power is one of the most widely used renewable resources
today. It is used to power entire cities and provides a much cleaner form of
energy than the burning of fossil fuels.
Although hydro-electric power is considered a renewable energy source, the

environmental impact of building dams for large operations, such as those
that power whole cities, can be quick, drastic and sometimes tragic.
Many hydroelectric dams that were built in previous years cause major
changes in the area eco-systems. When a dam is damaged or breaks, it has
catastrophic effects on hundreds of thousands of people.
Making a small-scale hydroelectric system in a moving body of water on

your own property is still a viable option. Many of the Amish communities
in the US still use water to power belt driven shops that produce leather
goods.
The concept of this small scale system would be the same as used in the
wind turbine system where you use the current of the water to turn a DC
motor in the opposite direction to generate electricity.
At the publication of this book, our information on building small

hydroelectric systems was incomplete. Therefore, this book does not
include plans for such a system, but we are working on providing more
information on the subject in the future.
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CHAPTER 11: WIRING YOUR BATTERY SYSTEM
Most people opt to include a battery back-up system for their alternative
energy projects. This allows for energy to be stored for use during times
when the sun is not shining or the winds are calm.
There are 3 basic ways to wire your batteries. They are series, parallel and a
combination of the two-called series/parallel. The different wiring
configurations works to either increase your system voltage, amps or both.
Series Wiring: This wiring system is used to increase your system’s

voltage. This wiring system starts when you wire the negative from one
battery to the positive of the next battery and so on through your battery
bank.
It is important to note that you must produce at least 15volts to charge a 12v
battery bank. If your panels are producing less, you will need to connect
your panels into a series before connecting them to the battery.
Parallel Wiring: In this wiring system you will join the positive wire from
one panel to the positive of the next panel and the negative to the negative.
This setup increases your overall system amperage.
Series/Parallel Wiring: This system is a combination of the two previous

wiring systems. You need to be using at least 4 batteries to utilize this
system. The positive wire of the first battery is connected to the positive of
the third battery in the series. The negative of the first battery is connected
to the positive of the second battery in the series. The negative of the second
battery is connected to the negative of the fourth battery and the negative of
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the third battery is connected to the positive of the fourth.
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CHAPTER 12: THE ALTERNATIVE ENERGY HOME
As people become more aware of the environmental changes occurring
today and watch as energy prices soar to new level, they are learning to build
homes that are free from the costs of a fossil fuel driven world. “Off-grid”
living is becoming more popular in new home construction and home
renovations as well.
The benefits of creating a renewable energy home or business should be

obvious, but just the idea of spending less on electricity peaks most people’s
interest in such a change. Building a renewable energy lifestyle has far more
rewards, like the reduced consumption of fossil fuels and the reduction in
carbon footprints and environmental impacts.
Many home and business owners are actually increasing the value of their
properties by converting to renewable energy sources to supply their
electricity needs. Buyers are looking for more ways to save money and
mortgage lenders and government agencies are adding incentives and tax
breaks for energy efficient upgrades.
The opportunities for using different types of renewable energy vary

depending on location, but almost every residence has the ability to utilize
one form of alternative energy whether it is the sun, wind or some form of
moving water. Most homes that are completely self-sufficient run off
multiple alternative power sources.
It is also important to remember that reducing your dependency is just as

honorable as eliminating it. In many instances, even a combination of
renewable energy resources is not enough to maintain a home or business’
power consumption. Doing what you can is better than doing nothing at all.
The cost of going completely “off-grid” can be close to $100,000. This is a

huge investment that may take generations to realize a return on your
investment. Making alternative upgrades does however increase the value of
your home and this should be considered when deciding to go completely
energy independent.
If you are interested in learning more about self-sustaining homes or to see if

it is the right option for you, we are providing a list of resources that will
help you learn more and make an educated decision.
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http://www.greenpowergovs.org/: offers general information about
renewable energy sources
http://www.akeena.net/: This is the world’s largest retailer of solar

technology and products.
http://www.solarenergy.org/: a non-profit organization dedicated to the

education and advancement of solar power
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CHAPTER 13: LARGE SCALE RENEWABLE
ENERGY
Environmental change has historically started with the people and the
changes we see necessary in our culture today are much the same. They will
come from the bottom up. Unfortunately, it is not likely that we will see the
environmental impact of this change until large corporations and
governments become involved.
Realistically, our alternative energy systems still need to advance in their

technology and the only way to get the funding for this to happen is with big
business and government involvement. Until they are on board 100% to
break free of our fossil fuel dependence, the cost of the most efficient of
these technologies will remain out of the reach of the average household.
That is one of the reasons we have created this resource. Although you may
not be able to afford the very best technology, you can still build your own
systems and show our “leaders” that we won’t wait for them to destroy our
planet.
This is not to say that our government is not doing anything. In recent years,
we have seen millions of dollars spent on the research of ethanol fuels
derived from corn, tax rebates for energy efficient home upgrades and hybrid
vehicle purchases. There are even government incentives now in place to
encourage big businesses to invest in renewable energy sources. When you
look at the big picture and what other spending takes place, the attention
needs to become more focused on renewable energy.
The cost of energy effects the cost of everything. Our food, our clothes, the
cost of transportation, is all effected by the cost of fuel and energy. It is not
just a problem for individuals; it is a problem for the world as a whole.
As we said previously, this kind of movement builds from the bottom up.
The public has focused more of their attention on large energy industries and
many of these big corporations are taking steps to develop more
environmentally responsible practices.
Large-scale wind farms are popping up in more states across the country.
Energy efficient appliances are replacing older models on store shelves.
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Each of these small changes is having an impact. We have to be patient and
wait for it to grow to a global level.
Taking responsibility for your own energy needs is the best start for a world
of change. The people are the leaders and we need to show the government
and big business just how important renewable resources, our planet and
renewable energy are to us.
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CHAPTER 14: MORE CHANGE FOR THE WORLD
TO SEE
Reducing Your Oil Dependence:
As a population, we are addicted to using fossil fuels. This is one of the

biggest obstacles for us to overcome on our quest for energy independence.
Fuel for transportation is one of the biggest personal consumption factors for
most individuals to reduce.
The first step in reducing your transportation fuel usage is to simply reduce
the amount you drive. Make a list, plan ahead and get all of your errands
completed at one time.
There are a number of hybrid vehicles on the market that are making it really
easy for people who feel the need to drive to reduce their dependence on
gasoline. These fuel-efficient hybrid vehicles really do make a huge
difference.
There are now kits that make it possible to convert grease from your local
restaurants into fuels as well. Grease powered conversion kits hit the market
about two years ago and they allow diesel engines to run on filtered
vegetable oil. Bio-diesel could change the trucking industry forever. It is
also important to note that bio-diesel burns much cleaner than other fuels,
which means a reduction in air pollution as well.
More fully electric cars are hitting the market as well. Getting cars running
on solar energy is a future that is hopefully not so far off. More people are
using small scooters and less gas guzzling alternatives like motorbikes for
daily commutes as well.
To reduce your personal fuel consumption start by simply not driving when
you don’t need to. Take the bus, carpool or ride a bike if you can.
Reducing our country’s dependency on fuel for transportation is going to
make those skyrocketing pump prices less of a shock to the system. As
technologies advance, we will hopefully overcome our dependence on fossil
fuel use completely.
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The Ethanol Question:
You will notice that more gas pumps have that small size indicating that
their fuel contains a certain percentage of ethanol. Ethanol is an alcohol
based energy source that is derived from sugar and corn and in recent years,
it has been combined with gasoline and used to power automobiles.
There is a question of the economical and environmental stability of

widespread ethanol use. We would need massive amounts of corn and sugar
to fuel every car owner in the U.S. We would need more corn than we may
have land available to grow those types of crops .
Don’t forget, it is not only corn on the cob. Corn is a main ingredient in a
wide variety of foods from chips and breading to dog food and poultry feed.
The plus side to ethanol is that it burns much cleaner than gasoline. This
means a drastic reduction in the amount of carbon monoxide produced by
vehicles and a reduced amount of air pollution.
Ethanol is already being produced and distributed on a fairly large scale in

the US. Many states require that a 10% mixture of ethanol be mixed with all
other fuels. In the now, this has a positive effect on the economy and the
environment. Creating more jobs and producing a cheaper cleaner fuel
source.
The technology for the use of ethanol fuels is out there. There are already
cars, buses, trains and planes that run exclusively on this ultra-clean fuel
source. Only time will tell exactly how mainstream the use of ethanol will
become and if it will be considered a viable alternative to fossil fuels.
The Energy Of The Future:
The future is always a mystery until it arrives. It is apparent to much of the

world that our dependence on fossil fuels to supply our energy needs must
change. We must move to alternative energy sources and hopefully to more
renewable sources as well.
Lets take a peek at what the future might have to offer:
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Power From Space: This would consist of large solar panels that orbit the
earth, eliminating interference from clouds and allowing the panels to
remain exposed to the sun for 24 hours each day. Scientists have even
estimated that the Earth dissipates enough energy from the Sun in a single
day to power the entire planet for a year. The real problem with this plan is
how to deliver the harvested energy back to the earth. Scientists are still
working on it.
Wind Farms At Sea: This approach has already been put into use on a
small scale in some areas, but engineers have proposed massive wind farms
stretching across miles of ocean where wind speeds are much higher than on
land. This technology may not be far off.
Nanotechnology: Nanotechnology is still somewhat of a mystery or at least

its benefits to alternative energy are. Advances in this technology may
greatly increase the efficiency of current alternative energy systems. There
is even mention of the possibility that nanotechnology will bring a new level
of efficiency to our current electricity. This technology is advancing quite
rapidly and its effects may be seen in the near future.
Geo-Thermal Energy: Earth is a truly amazing planet, so it shouldn’t be

surprising to learn that it holds vast amounts of energy hiding beneath its
surface (not to mention in its skies). Volcanoes, waves, wind storms, all
produce naturally occurring energy that remains untapped.
The future holds endless possibilities as technologies improve and advance

with each new day.
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CHAPTER 15: WHAT’S HOLDING BACK
CHANGE?
With all this technology, all of the awareness and all of the evidence of the
need for change, what is really holding us back? Why haven’t there been
global or even national standards set in regards to alternative energy
resources?
The truth is, until the last 50 years, the majority of people didn’t fully
understand where our dependence on fossil fuels would take us or how huge
of a negative impact it would have on our environment.
Although the knowledge about ethanol has been around since the time of the
Model T Ford, it wasn’t considered seriously until the energy crisis of the
last several years. There were solar powered satellites in the sky, long
before there were solar panels on homes.
Our biggest hold up is just catching up on the technology that we let slip by.
Awareness has been building, technologies are finally advancing again and
change is on the horizon, but it is still going to take time.
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CHAPTER 16: ADDING TO YOUR KNOWLEDGE
BASE: WORKSHOPS AND RESOURCES
Workshop:
If you would like to learn more about renewable energy, Solar Energy
International holds renewable energy workshops. They offer a variety of
classes, but most fill up fairly quickly. The cost of the classes runs between
$950 and $2,000. To learn more about these workshops, please visit:
http://www.solarenergy.org/workshops/index.html
Additional Resources:
Take the time to learn more about renewable energy with some of our
favorite books and resources:
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/simplewaterfuel
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/runyourcarwithwater
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/buildelectriccar
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CHAPTER 17: CLOSING THOUGHTS
The current energy and environmental situations of the world may not look
promising, but we hope that the information provided in this book has given
you the view of change and how you can start to make it happen.
Global change will have to start with the people and thanks to individuals
like you; more people are starting to realize the value of alternative energy
sources in their everyday lives. Imagine your homemade solar or wind
energy system attracting attention locally and more of your neighbors and
friends taking the same action. This is how change starts.
Save your own valuable resource of money by being smart and conservative
with your energy usage. Turning off lights and electronics today will give
you the money to replace your bulbs with compact fluorescents, which will
give you the money to start building up parts for your own alternative energy
system and that in turn will help you save the money for more energy
efficient appliances and so on down the line. In the end, you are going to
save more money and waste less energy, helping the world and your wallet.
Don’t forget to take the bus, carpool or ride a bike if possible. What you
save in gas during that time can be used as a down payment on a hybrid,
water or electric powered car. Global change is not going to happen without
an effort from you and many others like you.
It is important to remember that you are not alone. This book and
information about solar and wind alternatives is available worldwide.
People the world over are starting to see the effects of our neglected planet,
the world’s environment and understanding the importance of the problems
we are all facing. The people are taking action and governments and big
business will have no choice but to follow.
Let our current energy crisis be the catalyst for change, but more
importantly, you now have the tools to be the catalyst for change as well.
Future generations will look back on this time and thank our generation.
Change is coming. Thank you for reading, learning and becoming part of
the change.
To A Brighter, Cleaner Future from HomeMadeEnergy.org!

85
LIST OF REFERENCED LINKS
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/ebaysolarpanel : For solar panels on Ebay
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/ebaysolarcells : For solar cells on Ebay
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/SizingCalculators.xls : For calculating the

size you need
http://www.energybay.org: For solar products for DIY market
http://www.greenpowergovs.org : Offers general information about

renewable energy sources
http://www.akeena.net : This is the world’s largest retailer of solar

technology and products.
http://www.solarenergy.org : A non-profit organization dedicated to the

education and advancement of solar power
http://www.solarenergy.org/workshops/index.html : Solar Energy Institute

Workshops
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/simplewaterfuel
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/runyourcarwithwater
http://www.homemadeenergy.org/buildelectriccar
86
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Remember, SAFETY FIRST!

y Cut your “wattage consumption”. Invest in energy efficient, compact

Table 1. Comparable Wattage of CFLs and Incandescents

Incandescent Wattage CFL Wattage

Table 2. Cost Comparisons between CFLs and Incandescents

27-Watt Compact Fluorescent 100-Watt Incandescent

Cost of Lamps $14.00 $0.50

Lamp Life 1642.5 days (4.5 years) 167 days

Annual Energy Cost $5.91 $21.90

Lamps Replaced in 4.5 years 0 10

Total Cost $40.60 $103.55

Savings Over Lamp Life $62.95 0

y Avoid baths and go for quick showers.

y Replace worn, inefficient weather stripping around exterior doors.

Remember, it is easier to SAVE energy than create it!

Determining your average energy needs is as simple as looking at your

In order to better understand the impact of energy consumption, let’s take a

Refrigeration Lighting Tools / Office

So, if you use the formula shown above, you can

Please go to: http://www.homemadeenergy.org/SizingCalculators.xls

Definition: Insolation- solar radiation striking the earth a particular time

The sun produces on average 1,000 watts/per square meter.

How Solar Power Works:

In the early 1950’s, Bell Laboratories developed a silicon-based cell that

The first non-laboratory use of photovoltaic technology was to power a

Solar energy systems use solar panels made up of photovoltaic (photo

It is hard to believe that the internal components of age-old transistor radios

Today, PV solar modules supply electrical power to more than 1 million

How Long Do Solar Panel Systems Last?

Advantages of PV Technology Disadvantages of PV Technology

CHAPTER 3: BUILDING YOUR SOLAR ENERGY

Photovoltaic System Parts & Their Functions

Stringer: When the individual PV cells are connected together in a “string”,

Solar Panels: Otherwise known as PV (or photovoltaic) panels are the

An example of a “roof mount” PV System is shown here:

Array DC Disconnect: The DC Disconnect is

Charge Controller: A Charge controller is a

Charge Controllers may have optional features as listed below:

* Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD) - disconnects the PV System from the

**Car Batteries SHOULD NOT be used in a PV system!!

Deep Cycle Battery: or Deep

System Meter: A system meter can be used in

Inverter: An inverter is an integral element in

Generator: A generator is not a necessary

AC Breaker Panel : Almost every home, except

**HME strongly recommends: Always check with your local

Different Types of Solar Energy Systems

*See Chapter 1, Page 16: “Load Calculation Sheet.”

A portable photovoltaic system is a simple power supply that can operate

Other Good Information To Know:

Battery boxes are an important element in colder climates as batteries

Obtaining Free Solar Panels

Our years of experience in setting up solar electric systems on all kinds of

(please note the solar panels at top)

Many of these damaged panels can be repaired to improve their efficiency.

Another excellent source of free panels is with solar energy system

Purchasing PV Panels at a Discount

Depending on the popularity of the use of alternative energy in your area,

Plexiglas: Another option is a ¼ inch acrylic panel (Plexiglas) which can

Silicone: Silicone is used to attach the solar cells to our plywood or

Solder Iron Solder Gun

OK! Let’s start generating electricity from the sun’s energy!