Let us begin by the kind of roosters that we shall condition. Please remember the following: No amount of scientific
conditioning contained in this keep can transform a mediocre rooster to an ace cock. All we can do to our second rate
roosters is to bring them to their full potential. Thus, it is best if you fight your mediocre fowls in hack fights where the
chances of meeting class A opponents is less.
**Only class A roosters stand a chance to win the Derby Championship in today’s top competition **
What is a class A rooster? The following for me are the requisites: First, Your rooster must come from a winning line or
family that has been winning ‘consistently and currently’ in the derbies. Second, the rooster must be fresh and in robust
health ( he must not have been moderately or severely ill throughout his life). Third, the rooster must possess nice
conformation ( proportional size and station in relation to his weight), Fourth, There must be no visible or physical defects
such as, severely curled toes, broken/damaged wing and or tail feathers, bumble foot, crooked breast bones etc… , Fifth,
he must be properly aged, ideally 30 months and above, where he is at his physical and psychological peak., Sixth, He
must be a good and consistent sparer, not an erratic performer. All these requisites must be present for a rooster to be in
the class A category.
I shall always give preference to an intelligent fighting and accurate cutting rooster over the aggressive/rusher type.
When I was new in the sport, I really wanted roosters that are aggressive, rough and multiple hitters. In fact, It took me
quite a number of years to realize that this type of fighting will not yield the winning percentage I desired. It was
sometime in the mid eighties when I had a change of heart when I started looking for bloodline/s that would suit the new
fighting style of my preference. Over the years I have developed strains and families of intelligent roosters that win a big
majority of my fights. The fowls I have developed win quickly with their accurate cutting and great timing without losing
their gameness and power if needed during a drag fight. Win, Lose or Draw the present fowls I breed and fight unleash
powerful single blows, well timed and deliberate, each intended to kill the opponent at the early buckles. The number of
championship trophies displayed in the farm plus my other victories were mostly compliments of these type of roosters.
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4 X 4 SCRATCH PENS
FLYING PENS
RUNNING PENS
CORD AREA
******DAYS 19 AND 20
NO MORNING WORK, 4:00AM JUST LET ROOSTERS WALK INDIVIDUALLY INSIDE LIGHTED RUEDA
FOR TEN MINUTES, THEN PUT THEM BACK INSIDE THEIR COOPS. REPEAT THIS AT 12:00PM AND
4:00PM AFTERNOON. BEFORE FEEDING THEM PLACE THEM INSIDE SCRATCH BOX FOR ONLY FIVE
TIPS ON SPARRING
Why do we spar roosters? Most often, roosters are sparred for entertainment purposes especially when friends or buyers
are around. It can show case each rooster’s fighting styles and abilities. However, sparring roosters during the
conditioning stage is done quite differently when they are sparred during the pre conditioning and/or maintenance stage.
When my cocks are in the pre conditioning and maintenance stage, I see to it that they are sparred once or twice a
month. My stags are sparred at every other four days. I spar them just to have them accustomed to being sparred and
more importantly to monitor and record which among them are the very good and consistent sparrers. You may at this
stage spar them alternately on grass and at your rueda. Two rounds of three buckles each is enough. I usually spar them
before being fed in the morning or afternoon. Rate them as follows C (Deficient), B (average), B+ (good), A (very good),
A+ (excellent), A++(super). Don’t play favorites and be objective when rating them. For your selection of candidate
cocks/stags to be placed in your 21 day keep, only choose from among those who are consistently rated as A and higher.
Selection is key in winning derby championships.
Sparring sessions during the 21 day keep is done around 4:00 – 5:30 am. Your sparring days shall be Days4, 10 and 15
during this 21 day keep. This will serve as your gauge as to which among your candidate roosters are most worthy of
being fielded in. Again, always record and rate each rooster per session as objectively as you can. During the 21 day
conditioning stage, you must now always spar in your rueda under fluorescent lights. It is nice if you can also play a loud
radio to accustom them with the lighting and various noise conditions inside the pit as close as possible. Try to heat and
release your roosters as if you are already atop the pit in the actual fight. Release your roosters in the manner you intend
to release them come fight time. Two rounds of 2 to 3 short buckles is enough. Always remember to bathe or shampoo
your roosters the day after their sparring day. I use mite free or Wash out shampoo for roosters which I find both
effective and fowl friendly. Remember this, “We do not intend to acquire stamina and endurance during sparring, again
this is only our gauge on how ready our roosters are”. Too much and long sparring will only do more harm than good as
it will sap the energy and vitality. It also is the main reason for our roosters to sustain injuries such as sprains, muscle
strains, dislocated joints, damaged beaks and spurs not to mention broken tail and wing feathers. Worst of all over
sparring will only ruin your roosters’ sharpness and edge. Don’t spar your roosters to the point of exhaustion. We want
our roosters to be razor sharp as possible come fight time. We want them to be on ‘edge’, thus be able to kill their
opponents as quickly as possible and full of vigor and reserved energy to be able to last the ten minute time limit during a
long battering drag fight if needed.
RANDOM TIPS AND POINTERS
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** DEWORM ALL CANDIDATE ROOSTERS 7 DAYSBEFORE THIS 21 DAY KEEP REGIMEN AND
**BATHE AND/OR SHAMPOO ROOSTERS THE DAY AFTER EACH SPARRING SESSION
**MAKE IT A POINT TO DOUBLE THE NUMBER OF YOUR CANDIDATE ROOSTERS ESPECIALLY IN A BIG
EVENT YOU ARE PARTICIPATING. THUS, YOU MUST HAVE 8 GOOD CANDIDATE COCKS FOR A 4 COCK
DERBY EVENT.
***NEVER NEVER USE STIMULANTS, STEROIDS AND OTHER ARTIFICIAL DRUGS/SUBSTANCES TO YOUR
PRIZED ROOSTERS.THIS WILL ONLY RUIN THE WINNING CHANCES OF YOUR COCKS AND HAMPER
THEIR FIGHTING STYLE. I HAVE ALREADY TRIED USING ALMOST ALL OF THESE SO CALLED WONDER
DRUGS, MOST OF THE TIME UNSUCCESSFULL.YOU MUST JUST BELIEVE THAT ACE ROOSTERS ARE
***YOUR CHEAPEST INVESTMENT IN THIS SPORT IS THE ACQUISITION OF QUALITY BROOD MATERIALS AS THIS
WOULD DETERMINE YOUR DESTINY IN THE SPORT.
***ACQUIRE BROODFOWL ONLY FROM ESTABLISHED BREEDERS WHO SHALL SELL YOU HIS WINNING BLOODLINES.
CONSISTENCY AND LONGEVITY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME IN THE SPORT. SHORT LIVED BLOODLINES AND NICKS
COME AND GO, BUT THE BEST ONES ARE HERE TO STAY.
*** TRY YOUR DARNEST BEST TO FOLLOW STRICTLY WHAT I HAVE SHARED WITH YOU AND IT WILL SURELY
INCREASE YOUR WINNING PERCENTAGES DRAMATICALLY FOR AS LONG YOU ARE USING QUALITY BATTLE FOWL.
WHAT I HAVE SHARED HERE HAS BEEN PROVEN OVER THE YEARS IN THE TOUGHEST PITS IN ARANETA, ROLIGON,
PASAY, MAKATI, CAINTA, SAN JUAN AND OTHER TOP COCK FIGHTING VENUES
— with Edward Ilagan Ave and 46 others at Home :).