Corncob Mycelium Slurry

This will enable you to experiment with things like straw a whole lot more.... Your
answer is corncob... This is sold as animal bedding. Again, check supermarkets,
farm stores, department stores and pet stores. All of them have it.

Here is what you do...

1. Cover with water and boil it for about 30 minutes. A big pot, maybe 5 lbs or
more of corncob is fine.
2. drain the water out (I know it looks dry and like it didn't absorb enough
water... don't worry)
3. Place it in a covered plastic container to cool (use seran or foil to cover if
you want).
4. Take 1.. yes you only need 1.. PF cake and place in a clean blender (no I didn't
say it had to be sterile).
5. Add 4 cups of water.
6. Blend for 2 seconds...
7. Start over.. I forgot to tell you to put the lid on the blender.
8. Pour this grey magical smelling slurry into the corncob.
9. Mix very thoroughly (yes I know how much water is in there.. read #10).
10. Drain excess water.
11. Cover with alluminum foil.
12. Place in warm (85f) location.
13. Wait 24 hrs (yes that actually is a little growth you see there).
14. Wait 10 days and it is completely colonized.

There is no need for sterile precautions if you already have a PF jar grown out.
This gives you a huge amount of spawn to play with.. like for innoculating straw,
or wood, or cardboard, or whatever...

A good rule of thumb for the amount of corncob is to use a standard dishtub
(12"x14") and fill with the boiled corncob to about 4 inches. This is fine for 1 PF
cake and 4 cups of water. This method works because corncob is extremely resistant
to contamination (but not impervious) and because you are going way way overboard
with the amount of innoculant. But it does work. I call it Massive Mycellial Slurry
(MMS) and the process Massive Mycellial Innoculation (MMI).

I promise you will not be disappointed....

Growing Mushrooms in Soil

The original copy of this document can be found at the Lycaeum.
Simplified instructions.

NEEDED:

1. 9" diameter round Tupperware (tm) plastic food-saver pot-like thingy, which
comes with lid. Should be 4.5" deep.

2. Rich potting soil, preferribly containing sterilized cow-maneur.

3. Vermiculite -- $2.79 (2-gallon bag) at K-Mart. If you go to their garden

department, they won't have any and they'll tell you they don't sell it. They do --
they LIE -- but NOT in the garden section.

4. PF spore syringe -- $10.00.

5. Coffee beans. I have a coffee tree growing in my house, so it was EASY to

acquire them. Unfortunately, grocery-store beans are NOT good because they have
junk in them and have been roasted BLACK and have NO shells on them. The fungus
seems to like the shells MORE than the nut inside, which is whitish. I tried other
types of beans, berries and seeds - and NONE worked. They needed too much moisture,
and of also needed to be soft and sterilized for the fungus to have a shot at
infecting it -- the very same conditions that favor bacterial growth. The coffee
beans work miraculously well and DO NOT NEED TO BE STERILIZED. The soil is
forgiving, as it retards infective outbreaks. Hey, it worked for me. If nobody can
find coffee beans, and I manage to MASTER my techniques so that they can be
consistently reproducible, then perhaps I'll consider sending people coffee beans.
I BUY my coffee -- when I want coffee -- and I don't have a coffee grinder, so the
beans are otherwise of no use to me. Unlike Juan Valdez, I have better things to do
than to open shells and roast coffee beans for a lousy cup of coffee.
Coffee beans are good because they don't dessicate quickly and always seem to be
moist. In fact, when you place them on the soil dry and cracked, the shells seem to
draw moisture from the soil, providing a nice medium for the fungus. You can leave
the beans out normally for seeming eons, and no infection appears. Place them on
soil that has been sprayed with spores, and they show fuzz in a couple days.

6. Fresh sheet of copy-paper.

TYPE OF CLEANLINESS NEEDED:

Clean room: Nope, don't worry about it.

Sterility of envronment: Nope, don't worry about it.

Sterility of utensils touching soil: Nope, don't worry about it.

Sterility of soil: If you purchase sterilized potting soil and sterilized maneur,
that is ENOUGH. Don't worry about it. If the stuff ISN'T sterilized, place
tupperware in microwave and heat that sucker up until its really hot. Then take it
out, let it cool, and STIR ALOT!
PROCEDURES: THE GOOD PART

1. Fill container with soil mixture and make sure mixture REALLY IS a mixture. If
not, OR if you made the soil solution yourself, then STIR THOROUGHLY. Add SOME (you
decide, I used 1 cup) vermiculite, and stir.

2. Cut, drill, or force (4) NAIL-HOLES into the SIDE of the tupperware container .
75 (3/4) INCH BELOW the surface of the soil, ON THE SIDE OF THE CONTAINER --
EQUALLY SPACED APART. This is for adding MOISTURE TO THE SOIL WITHOUT WATERING THE
SURFACE, with the aid of the USED SPORE SYRINGE.

3. Cut coffee beans in HALF, but leave shells on. Place them into a cup of water
for 5 minutes, then remove and place on surface of soil, halfway inserted, pointed
up (beans ~ ovular shaped)

4. Take CLEAN cup, fill with vermiculite and HOT water. Allow soaking, and then
remove the vermiculite and wring out partially with aid of paper towel. Scatter
small quantity of vermiculite on surface of soil. You don't want to COVER the soil
completely, but just patchy. It holds moisture and prevents dessication of soil
surface.
5. Water soil LIGHTLY. You DON'T want the surface to be TOO moist, or you MAY have
contamination. Contamination will EITHER appear as white spots, OR as tiny greenish
dots. The healthy mycelium is a thick white fuzzy thing. If contamination occurs,
consider your project a failure. I tried this several ways, and only ONE way became
contaminated; I used a lot of moisture, and placed it in ABSOLUTE darkness with LID
on for 2 days. Tiny green spots appeared UNDER the white fuzz. So at early stages,
mycelium WILL NOT fight off infection. I don't know WHAT this green stuff was, but
it moved in FAST.

6. Spray surface of soil with 3 CCs of spore solution -- plenty.

7. Place PAPER sheet OVER surface of pot (plastic) and put NEAR radiator. DO NOT --
I REPEAT -- DO NOT COVER TUPPEWARE with COVER, or an infection is ASSURED! Max heat
= 85 degrees F. Covering with LID is beneficial for one-hour periods DAILY. But if
you leave it on, it will become infected. You can and SHOULD always leave the paper
on. Don't ask me why; I did several pots and I'm telling you what works. The key
reason why this works is that the fungus, unlike bacteria, seems to have NO PROBLEM
invading the soil quickly without a lot of moisture. Of course the fungi would like
a little more, but better safe than sorry. If you keep the moisture level LOW, then
you will most likely succeed. Once it raises above a critical level, there goes the
neighborhood!

8. Daily, remove paper and inject small quantities of CLEAN water UNDER surface of
soil. You can, as I did, water the surface VERY lightly with the syringe. But be
careful, or you will damage the mycelium. You NEVER -- I REPEAT -- NEVER want the
SURFACE to SEEM WET, or even MOIST. It doesn't NEED to be really moist for the
fungus to spread like MAD. Think DRY, as it is BETTER too dry than too moist. As
long as there is PLENTY of oxygen, a VERY small amount of moisture is PLENTY at the
beginning stages.

9. Withing ONE WEEK, the surface should be NICELY covered with mycelium. The
heaviest patches will be AROUND the beans. The first areas to colonize will be the
beans, about 2-3 days after spraying. Stir the soil up around the surface. This
will SEEM to destroy the mycelium, and when you are finished, there will be NO MORE
WHITENESS on the surface. Don't fret, it will shortly grow back. After stirring;
water, scatter a little moist vermiculite, and place the paper back.

10. Within another 8-12 days, as long as the container is BESIDE the radiator, the
fungus will COMPLETELY take over the surface of the soil again (VERY THICK). When
it does, and when it is REALLY THICK, you can take the pot and place it into a
terrarium like the one described in MMGG. Make sure it is WARM (85 Deg F), and make
SURE it is HUMID. Case it with moist (wet and wring out) vermiculite and set in
dark for 4-5 days, before turning on the aeration and light. Within a week, PINNING
will start.

DISCLAIMER:

The key advantage to my method is that you do not need a sterile environment; the
soil is VERY forgiving. If you try the other methods, YOU MUST -- I REPEAT -- MUST
guarantee sterility, or you will UNDOUBTEDLY FAIL. Even after the fungus has
partially colonized, bacteria will have NO PROBLEM RACING IN and taking over
immediately! Many people have succeeded in doing it, but many have also failed.

A good method of testing out your sterilization techniques:

Take jar w/ substrate and sterilize it.

Remove it and place it somewhere.
Wait a week, open and smell. If it smells funky (putrid), then you would have
failed.

THE GREAT TIMOTHY HAY COB CUBENSIS METHOD

1. First, you must obtain a pure culture of psilocybe cubensis. I don't see any
reason why multi-spore inoculation wouldn't work (presuming they'll germinate on
hay) or why one couldn't use a multi-strain grain culture, but I used a pure
culture I'd previously isolated. (Note: Don't be afraid! Agar work is much easier
than you might think!)

2. Grow out some grain spawn. I use 'organic' whole rye grain steeped in near-
boiling distilled water for an hour or so (as suggested by Stamets, produces
uniform water content grain and minimized contaminants). Just before the grain is
ready add some gypsum to the pot and stir well (I use about a gram for every quart
jar's worth of rye grain, but I don't know how important precision is...doens't
seem to matter much...). The gypsum helps keep the rye from sticking together post
sterilization. Sticking frequently results in bacterial contamination. So use the
gypsum (Try health food/herb co-ops), Drain the grain, scoop into mason jars and
sterilize at 15 lbs for 1 hour. I use autoclavable filter disks (from Fungi
Perfecti and others) in lids with holes cut through, but I'm sure loosened jar lids
would work fine. I inoculate the sterilized, cooled-down grain with mycelial
solution. Shake once after three days or so and perhaps once more several days
later if needed, but the grain should be fully colonized within 10 days at most if
liquid inoculum is used.

3. Get an "LM" brand "Timothy Hay Cob" from a pet store. Should cost $3-$4 for a
package like a big bread loaf. (Note: I ended up cutting up the hay AFTER
pasteurization, but you'll probably want to do this beforehand. Try and keep the
pieces no longer than 4 inches or so. But don't worry about some bits being longer)

4. Place as much of 'cob' as possible in a large pot. Fill with distilled water
(actually, I think I used a 50-50 mix of distilled and tap and it worked fine). You
must be able to submerge the hay completely with a weight or a weighted lid.

5. Bring the water to a near boil and reduce heat to keep temp more or less stable.
Pasteurize for one hour.

6. Drain hay in a collander. Shake well.

7. Place hay in an "oven bag". These are special plastic bags used for cooking
turkeys and so forth. They are heat resistant.

8. Hold bag with hay upside down with bag open. Shake and squeeze to get rid of
remaining excess water.

9. Let hay cool in bag until it fully reaches room temperature.

10. Take fully colonized jar of grain spawn. Wash hands and rinse with rubbing
alcohol. Air dry. These were the ONLY sterile precautions I used, but you may want
to observe some more. Break up grain spawn and mix thoroughly with hay in bag. I
used most of a quart spawn jar (figure one pint of spawn). Liquid mycelial
inoculation would definitely work at least as well, spore inoculation is a
possibility.
11. Let hay sit in bag for three-four days. The bag should be twisted loosely
closed but not sealed or tied. You want to allow some respiration while retaining
most of the moisture.

12. After 3-4 days the mycelium should be growing out vigourously onto the hay.
Handling the hay through the outside of the bag, knead and pull at it between
shakings. You want to break up the bigger mycelial mats and redistribute them
throughout the hay. You can also open the bag and work it like a bellows to help
exchange the air. You may find that the hay punctures numerous small holes in the
bag. This is okay, and may help respiration.

13. I gave the hay a couple of squirts of distilled mist at some point fearing that
it might dry out. But I doubt this was necessary, despite the very dry climate.

14. Every few days, repeat the breaking, mixing, and aerating procedure.

15. DON'T worry about contamination. If you pasteurized the hay properly, you
should have a couple of weeks before anything else really has a chance to compete
with the mycelium.

16. When the hay looks like there's mycelium within an inch of any given spot of
hay, leave it alone to complete colonization. The whole process should take a bit
less than 14 days.

17. When there is at least whispy mycelium across all the hay (and if you've been
mixing well, throughout it), it is ready to be laid out. You can use whatever
terrarium setup you used for PF cakes, or use this low tech setup:

1. Get a big Rubbermaid storage container, a plastic drop cloth, and some chicken
wire. Melt a hole in one of the bottom corners of the container. Wash it out well.

2. Cut a piece of chicken wire and fold over the ends and sides to make a platform
that will stand at least an inch above the bottom of the container. Fit this down
into the container. Spray the insides of the setup with lysol or the like and let
completely dry.

3. Break up the colonized hay and lay it out on the chicken wire. It should be more
or less evenly spread but don't go crazy breaking up the hay. Make it at least two
inches deep. Don't know what the maximum depth would be...

4. Unfold plastic drop cloth and drape over container. It will not make anything
like a sealed environment BUT IT DOESN'T SEEM TO MATTER. Your mileage may vary so
if you feel the need be more precise with environmental controls.

5. Let hay recuperate for a couple of days.

6. Twice per day, take off plastic tarp. Use lid of container to vigourously fan
hay to exchange air. Replace tarp and lifting up one end stick spray bottle beneath
and spray distilled water with the finest possible spray into the air. Experiment.
I used only a few spritzes at first and more and more as the mushrooms grew. The
lack of a drip shield doesn't seem to matter, though when I'd redrape the tarp I'd
arrange it so that a piece without major condensation or water drops was above the
hay. Redrape plastic. If necessary, tilt setup to allow excess water to drain out
hole. Leave setup in a temperate place (mid to upper seventies to allow pinhead
formation) with some light exposure. Any light is probably fine, a little natural
light probably best. Don't overdue light. Very little is required.

7. In one to two weeks, the texture of the hay should begin to change dramatically,
you may not realize that this is pinning, as it should appear that the entire
service of the hay is turning to pins.

8. Keep up the fanning, spraying routine as the pins turn to primordia, and the
primordia to carpophores. Enjoy the sight of dozens of large mushrooms springing
forward.

9. Pick them just after or as the veil is breaking. While you won't have to clean
off any vermiculite, you will want to pull off as much hay as possible. Some hay
will be inside the stems. Don't worry about it.

High Fun Guy's 10-step -=Quicky Colinization=-

This is an improved way to get your cakes to colonize faster.

Supplies:

1/2pint jar(s) with holes in lid

vermiculite
brown rice flour
big pan w lid
smaller pan
foil
spore syringe
glass measuring cup
A second syringe (unless you use all of your spores from the syringe you'll need an
extra one)
The Process

1. Put 2/3 cups vermiculite and 1/4 cups Brown rice flower in 1/2 pint jar.
2. Put jar(s) in pan and boil them with the lid on.
3. Boil a little more than 1/4 cups water for every jar in the smaller pan, cover
the pan TIGHTLY with foil.
4. Let both pan's boil for about 30 minutes.
5. Let everything cool for about 2 hours.
6. Poke hole through the foil of the smaller pan and inject about 1cc for every jar
you are going to inoculate.
7. Sterilize measuring cup in microwave, once its done imediatly cover the top with
foil. let it cool for a while.
8. Use a sterile syringe to suck up the inoculated water and shoot it into the
measuring cup through a hole made in the foil.
9. Suck up the right amounts (1/4 cup per jar) of inoculated water from the
measuring cup and realease it into the jars.
10.Shake up the jars to evenly distibute the innoculated water.
Your Done, now just wait.................

Hip's Bulk Tek

Check out HIPPIEHAVEN http://www.geocities.com/SouthBeach/Marina/7382
First, let me say that I'm a big fan of the PF Amazonian 'classic' strain (still my
#1!) and a firm disciple of the PF Tek. PF himself has my utmost respect and all my
little 'innovations' are merely elaborations upon his ideas.

In my mind, the biggest drawback to the tek is the damn 1/2 pint jars... they cost
$$, can be hard to find, and must be washed after use, quite a chore if more than
just a dozen or so are involved.

So let's talk about oven bags. As in Reynolds-brand oven bags, used for roasting
turkeys, chicken, etc. whole. They come in various sizes - small is 10" by 16",
rated to hold 4 pounds weight and oven-safe at up to 400� F.

They are also available much larger, as in the 'turkey' size, are cheap (a few
bucks, <$5 for a box of five 'small') and available year round in any decent
grocery store.

They make dandy 'jars' for PF-style substrate in bulk amounts. Just mix up enough
rice/verm. for X # of jars, (see note at bottom for a few ideas on this part) spoon
into the bag, tie the bag closed, bake at 250� F for 45 min. Allow to cool in the
oven until safe to touch. Stick the now cooled oven bag inside another, larger bag,
ziplock and let cool to room temp. When cool, one can inject spores/innoculant
right through the plastic (seal hole with tape). Once white growth becomes visible
in a few days, one can speed up colonization by shaking the bag, and mixing the
patches into uncolonized areas. Once fairly well along, (in a sterile environ, such
as in front of oven door ala the Captain's Oven Technique) the bag can be opened
and a filtered air tube inserted to enhance growth. Instead of spores, one can use
mycellial solutions, spent cakes (remove outer surface & use clean core), etc.

Note: one can fit rather large amounts into these bags but contamination losses
increase proportionately. Try it with enough for 6 jars 1st & see what you think.

A few pointers:

Double bag the substrate - i.e. fill a regular size oven bag with the substrate,
seal that by twisting and the tie included in the box (heat-resistant, non-metallic
for microwave fans), then place that inside yet another, larger oven bag and seal
it likewise.

Squeeze most of the air out of the inner bag so steam has room to expand and leave
some air in the outer large bag, so as the inner bag cools, any air sucked in is
also sterile.

Once "baked" for 45 minutes, pop the entire thing in yet a larger third ziplock
storage bag, the kind that can handle hot foods. Then into the fridge to cool.

Use an electric mixer on low to mix up 4 - 6 jars worth of substrate in a few

seconds in a large bowl.

When filling the oven bags, fold back the rim several inches, so no foodstuff gets
on the bag near the neck/seal.

When innoculating, don't let the needle touch the substrate, just raise the plastic
above the 'cake' an inch or so & squirt spores everywhere, about 3 cc will do
plenty. (About 3 dozen 'jars' worth with 1 syringe!!)
After innoculation, throw several into a black plastic trashbag to keep out the
light & help prevent contams.
Mycelium Innoculation Technique
This is a significant improvement of the PF-Tek which enables you to grow virtually
hundreds of PF-cakes with only one spore syringe! Also the primordia will appear in
as little as 16 days after inoculation! The key is first to colonize a sterilized
rye jar and then use this mycelium to make a mycelium syringe.

For the first part I basically use the The Foolproof Psilocybe Cubensis Mycelial
Culture Technique which can be found at The Shroomery. I use 100g (3,2 ounces) rye
+ 100 g water + a knife tip of gypsum in a 450 ml (1 pint) jar. There is an
important detail to prevent airborne contamination entering the jars (the rye and
later the rice-vermiculite!): Take a clean plastic bag and spray the inner side
with Lysol. Rub it from outside so the Lysol is evenly dispersed on the inner
surface of the bag. When the sterilization time is over, wait a few minutes for the
pressure to build down to ambient. Then take a clean, folded cloth or thick gloves,
open the cooker and transfer the (burning hot!) jars to the bag. Roll the rest of
the bag together, so you get it pretty airtight. As the hot air in the jars is
cooling down and its volume decreases, fresh (contaminated!) air from outside is
drawn in. This setup will accomplish that the contaminants from the air set down on
the wet bag surface and don't come into the jars! The sterilization time should be
at least 45 minutes, better 1 hour to assure complete sterilization. You should
shake the rye jars immediately after spore inoculation and than once after 3-4 days
and after 8 days. The optimum growth temperature is about 29�C (85�F). Now the best
part. You will need:

At least one empty plastic syringe, like the one from PF

A small (app. 200 ml) jar with a screw lid (I take one from a spaghetti sauce)
Tin foil
Alcohol lamp
A tea spoon
Punch a hole with a small nail into the middle of the lid. It has to be big enough
for the needle of the syringe fits through. Fill the jar with app. twice the amount
of water you will need to fill the syringes. (for instance when you have three
syringes with each 10 ml to fill, take app. 60 ml).Screw the lid and cover with a
double layer of tin foil, sterilize in a pressure cooker and then handle according
to the above tips. After it has cooled down to room temperature prepare all for the
transfer of the colonized rye to the water filled jar. Wash your hands, clean the
working surface, take the colonized rye jar, loosen the lid of the water jar, but
don't take it off jet. Sterilize the already washed and Lysol-sprayed spoon over
the flame of the alcohol lamp. I use to cool the hot spoon by dipping it in a small
glass of alcohol, but you can also wait a few moments the spoon cools down. Than
open the rye jar, the water jar and transfer 2 spoon full of colonized rye to the
water jar. This should obviously best be done under sterile conditions, but if you
work fast an in a draft free room you should accomplish this without contaminating
the whole jar. Replace the lids back and screw them tight. The rye jar can be kept
in a fridge at least three months and be used over and over again.

Take the water jar, put a finger on the tin foil where the hole is and shake it
vigorously at least 3 minutes until you see many tiny mycelium pieces swimming in
the water. Take a clean, sterilized syringe, sterilize the tip of the needle over
the flame and pull (holding the needle still in the flame) the plunger back 4
millimeters (1/5 inch). This will give you a little airspace so later on you can
shake the mycelium water prior to inoculation of the PF jars.
Remove the tin cover, hold the jar at an angle, insert the needle into water and
pull the plunger until the syringe is full. Be careful the syringe needle is clean
and sterilized or you will contaminate the mycelium water.

That�s it! You can now use this syringe like you would use the spore-water one. You
can keep the mycelium syringes in the fridge at least 2 months.

Straw As A Substrate
If you don't want to go through with the shredding proccess described below, you
can get pre-shredded staw from Mushroom Magic. Be sure to report back on your
results

Sure I can elaborate a little on how to use straw as a substrate. I will do a quick
run-down on how to prepare small amounts a pastuerized straw in your kitchen. I
like to use small amounts because it is easier, but this method can be used for any
size project. Anyway,....

....First, you need to locate some suitable (dry & mold-free) straw. Wheat and oat
straw are ideal, but other straws will work. Hay will also work, but try to find a
source that doesn't have large quatities of seeds. A few seeds can boost yields but
too many can cause contamination out-breaks. Straw straight from the bail will
work, but pre-shredding it prior to use will help. The easiest way to do this is
with a shredder. Or, if using small amounts just place some straw in a cardboard
box use a sharp pair of grass shears(chop,chop,chop...). You want the pieces to be
1-3 inches in length.

....Now we need a large stock pot (20qt+) to pastuerize the straw in. Fill the pot
about half way full of hot tap-water and heat it till near boiling on a stove
burner. Next, take your shredded straw and place it into a nylon mesh lingerie bag
(from Wal-mart in the laundry section) and submerge it into the hot water. Place a
heavy bowl (or something similar) on the bag to keep it competely under water. Put
the lid on the pot and let the straw steep at about ~150deg.F~ for one full hour
making sure that water doesn't boil dry. After 1 hour, take out the bag (wear
rubber gloves) and place it into a large pasta strainer to cool and drain. If you
want to be extra cautious you can take your pot and invert it over the strainer to
prevent air-bourne contamination....But, this isn't really necessary because
pastuerized straw is fairly resistant to contaminants....

....Once cool ('bout 45min-1hour), give the bag a good squeeze to get rid of the
excess water. Now you are ready for inoculation. I like to dump the straw in a
large clean rubbermaid container and then mix in some grain spawn by hand (wash
with antibacterial soap or wear gloves). Now pack your straw+spawn into a suitable
container. I like to use small rubbermaid containers. Cover the top with tinfoil
and puncture with a clean needle several times. Proceed with the spawn-run. You
should have about two weeks (plenty of time!) to establish the mycelium of choice.
Well, thats about it....a little bit longer than I expected but o'well. Oh yea,
straw is also good for cultivating Pan cyan, Ps. tampanensis, and Pleurotus
("oyster mushrooms") species. For using larger amounts, use a 55 gallon drum heated
with a propane burner.....Good Luck!
Extracting alkaloids from Psilocybe

Extraction Instructions for obtaining Psilocin and Psilocybin from Psilocybe or

Panaeolus.
I have not tried this method; it is taken from the classic volume (in French) and
based on that used by Albert Hofmann.

Le Genre Panaeolus: Essai taxinomique et physiologique par Gyorgy Miklos OLA'H

Laboratoire De Cryptogamie du Museum National D'histoire Naturelle 12, rue de
Buffon, Paris. Memoire hors-series No 10, 1970. Page 97.
1. Dry the mushrooms.
This important step is most likely to cause the greatest loss of yield depending on
how it is done. Crush or grind the dried carpophores or mycelium to a powder.
2. Shake and allow to stand (e.g. 30 mins) in chloroform. Use maybe twice the dry
weight in solvents at every step, or enough to well cover the powder.
3. Filter and discard the chloroform.
4. Shake the reidue and allow to stand with acetone.
5. Filter and discard the acetone.
6. Shake residue and allow to stand with methanol.
7. Filter.
8. Shake residue and allow to stand with methanol.
9. Filter.
10. Shake residue and allow to stand with methanol.
11. Filter.
12. Discard residue.
13. Combine methanol extracts.
14. Evaporate methanol to dryness, preferably in a vacuum, although low heat will
do.

This will yield a crude extract containing the active tryptamines, suitable for
most purposes. This can be further chromatographed on cellulose etc. to give pure
psilocin and psilocybin. The recommended solvents are n-Butanol saturated with
water, and n-butanol:acetic acid:water (24:10:10). Anyone wishing to do
chromatography should check the relevant texts for more detailed instructions.