Wet Basements

All basements and other areas below grade (ground level) are vulnerable to water
entry. Water can appear in a basement in one of three ways:
1) Direct leakage through cracks, construction joints, windows, or over the
top of the foundation wall;

2) Seepage through porous building materials such as concrete block or old

lime mortar, or poorly mixed concrete;

3) Condensation of the water vapor in the basement air on the basement

walls and floors and water pipes.

Beware of misleading claims! There are no miracle cures for wet

basements. Claims may be made for unique waterproofing methods. These
often end in failure despite so-called guaranties. Costs for such methods may be
high. Often the solution is simple. Usually the source of the leaking or seeping
water can be traced to roof and ground run-off. Roof and surface water runoff
must be directed away from the building to avoid water intrusion into the
building. In fact 96% of all water problems are due to poor control of roof and
surface water run-off.
The concrete walls and floor of the basement act like a warm sponge on wet
ground. Water will move through them by diffusion from wet soil on the
exterior of the building to the drier basement air. This can add as much as 3
liters of water per day to the air in a home. Water intrusion into a building
creates the conditions necessary for the growth of mold and bacteria,
infestations by powder post beetles and carpenter ants, deformation and rot of
wood framing members and rust and deformation of steel framing members.
Water intrusion into the soil within six feet of the foundation of a building will
cause compaction of the soil under the foundation footings and subsequent
settling of the building’s foundation, sidewalks, driveways and parking lots. It
also creates the conditions necessary for ice formation next to the foundation
walls and as the water turns to ice it will expand and push against the
foundation walls causing them to crack and bulge until they no can no longer
provide adequate support for the weight of the building.
 The place to start is on the outside:
The structure should have functional gutters and downspouts, which are
maintained and cleaned regularly. Large roof areas demand large gutters properly
drained. Lead water away from the foundation with downspout
extensions. Large (3X4 inch wide) downspouts can be installed on regular
residential gutters (rather than the regular 2x3 inch downspouts). Their larger
opening decreases the likelihood of clogs. Abandon clogged or broken underground
drainage pipes and install elbows with above ground piping and extensions. When
you need your underground drainage the most (early spring and late fall) it may
be frozen solid. In areas with high trees, install rigid plastic gutter covers with
mesh screening, to keep leaves, pine needles and seeds out of the gutters
(“Sheer Flow Gutter Filters with Screen” at Menards). To prevent water entry
through the basement windows clean and maintain window wells so the dirt or
gravel in them stops 3-5 inches below the windowsill.
It also can create conditions favorable to mold growth. Before grading against
the structure seal/repair any visible cracks or voids in the foundation walls.
Then, using pulverized (or shredded) topsoil, pile the dirt against the house so
that slopes away from the house. The slope should be about a one inch drop per
foot out to about six feet. Keep the soil at least four inches below any siding
to avoid rot and carpenter ant infestations.
(See the picture #1 below)

If there is a driveway, sidewalk or patio next to the building, and it is made

from masonry (e.g. brick and mortar or stone and mortar), or concrete or
asphalt, it need only be graded to ¼ inch per foot. If it is not economically
feasible to change the pitch of the surface, make sure that the joint with the
house is well sealed. In urban areas where there is very little space between
houses a driveway between two buildings should be constructed with a V shape
so that water from either side of the drive collects in the middle and drains
away, preferably to the street. If it is a shared drive enlist your neighbor’s
participation. When changes you make to your grading are going to increase run -
off onto your neighbor’s yard, enlist their aid in constructing a swale (a gentle
V in the soil) between the two homes to collect the water and carry it past
both houses.

If it is not possible to obtain the proper slope away from the house and still
maintain a 2 - 4 inch clearance below the siding, build a low retaining wall set 6
inches out from the house. Place some landscape fabric and/or an inch of pebbles
between the retaining wall and the house to prevent weed growth. Begin grading
the soil at the outside edge of the wall. (See the picture #2 below)

Poor grading is a common cause of seepage and leakage. The soil can then be
planted in grass or covered with geo-synthetic fabric or plastic and rocks, bark or
some other landscaping material. Protect outside cellar stairwells and doors with
covers and drains. Slabs or exterior sidewalks should be poured or repaired to
slope away from the structure. If repairing incorrectly sloped slabs or sidewalks
is prohibitively expensive, keep the joints where they meet the structure
caulked. If the structure is on a hill, a swale may have to be created in the
yard to divert downhill run off around the sides of the building. If the hill is
steep it may be necessary to construct a retaining wall to redirect the water. In
low lying areas or areas that drain very slowly, bentonite can be roto-tilled into
the soil to prevent the water from seeping into the soil near the foundation.

On the inside:

If the basement or crawl space has a dirt floor, cover it with a polyethylene
vapor barrier. The crawl space should be vented into the house or basement.
These two measures will reduce humidity. Use a dehumidifier in the basement
when the humidity is high (summer months). This will prolong the life of the
furnace heat exchanger by reducing rust and prolong the survival of any
foundation mortar joints.

If in spite of the above measures:

Porous foundation materials are damp - coat them with a waterproofing
material,

Seepage is experienced through cracks in the basement floor or walls or at the

floor wall joints - seal them with hydraulic cement or caulk sealant.

If the wall is constructed of sandstone, it should be repaired with a Type 0

mortar so that it is not too hard for the surrounding stone. If the foundation
wall is constructed of limestone or other relatively hard stone, a standard Type
N tuck-pointing mortar may be used.

If after taking these measures the basement is still wet, the following expensive
methods may be needed either singly or in combination: 1) the excavation of the
soil around the house and the repair of all cracks, 2) the application of a
waterproofing layer to the foundations exterior, 3) the installation of exterior
or interior footing drains and sump pumps, or 4) the installation of curtain or
French drains.

It is, usually less costly to keep water away from a house than to seal the
building and create a means of removing the water once it has reached the
structure.