INTERNSHIP REPORT

VENUE: KSRTC REGIONAL WOTKSHOP ALUVA, EKM

SUBMITTED BY.

 BASELAL.K
 BASIL KURIAN
 DEEPAK J NADACKAL
 JITHIN O CHACKO
 RYAN NATHANIEL PAUL
JOSEPH
 VIDHUN WILSON
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This internship has been a very good experience for us that it has given us a
chance to understand the industrial view of mechanical engineering outside the
classroom. We have learnt lot about the working environment and our interpersonal
skills and our self confidence have improved significantly. First of all we thank our
almighty lord for everything .We forfeit our respect and gratitude towards the KSRTC
Works Manager , regional workshop, Aluva for allowing us to do our internship
which made us acquire great knowledge and experience of a real life mechanical
engineer. we also extent our sense of gratitude to the Depot engineer, Assistant Depot
engineer, charge men and all mechanics of all sections for providing us with such an
exposure which helped us a lot.
 INTRODUCTION

The earliest predecessor of the Kerala State Road Transport Corporation was
the Travancore State Transport Department, constituted by the King Chithira Thirunal
Balarama Varma. Begun in the late 60's KSRTC is now providing excellent service
to the people within the state and the neighboring states. KSRTC now holds Ordinary,
Limited stop, fast and Super fast buses, super deluxe, which caters to the different
sections of the society. Another astonishing feature of KSRTC is that it is
comparatively cheap and provide innovative means of road transport. The K.S.R.T.C
workshop at Pappanam code – Central Works stands as the main one, which deals to
complaints at a large scale. There assembly of parts for the launch of new buses,
overhauling and assembly sections which engage in the maintenance of machine parts
are present. In November 2014, Kerala Urban Road Transport Corporation (KURTC),
with headquarters in Kochi, was formed to operate low-floor buses which are
procured with the financial assistance from the Jawaharlal Nehru National Urban
Renewal Mission (JNNURM). KSRTC now has 28 depots, 48 sub depots, 17
operating centres, 28 station master offices, 5 workshops and 3 staff training colleges
spread throughout the Kerala.
 MAJOR DEPARTMENTS & SECTIONS

All the works regarding the buses are taken buses of, at the workshop starting
from small tyre patch works to whole dismantling and assembling of a complete bus.
The works are divided into various sections as follows:

1. GEARBOX SECTION

2. F.I. PUMP SECTION

3. CLUTCH SECTION

4. ENGINE OVER HAULING SECTION

5. BRAKE CHAMBER

6. SLACK ADJUSTMENT

7. OTHER BRAKE RELATED UNITS

8. FRONT AXLE & JOIN

9. POWER STEERING

10.CROWN & PINION

11. LEAF SPRINGS

12.TYRE SECTION
 13.PROPELLER SHAFT

14.ELECTRICAL WORKS

15.OTHERS (VOH & NEWBODY)

1. GEARBOX SECTON

Most modern gearboxes are used to increase torque while reducing the speed of a
prime mover output shaft (e.g. a motor crankshaft). This means that the output shaft
of a gearbox rotates at a slower rate than the input shaft, and this reduction in speed
produces a mechanical advantage, increasing torque. A gearbox can be set up to do
the opposite and provide an increase in shaft speed with a reduction of torque. Some
of the simplest gearboxes merely change the physical rotational direction of power
transmission. It’s important to remember checking the rotation of the gearbox main
and input shafts in each gear during reassembly. The shafts should rotate easily
without any jamming, if difficulty is experienced during rotation in a particular gear
this means there are faulty components in that gear , which call for immediate
replacement. This should be done immediately or the repair job will be futile as the
gearbox will not function properly or will get out of operation quickly.

Major problems found and their diagnosis.

Fluid Leak

Most gearbox troubles are often associated with fluid leakage problems. Transmis-
sion fluid is used to lubricate the moving components of the gearbox. It also serves as
a heat sink that absorbs the heat energy generated in the transmission system. Fluid
leak can be triggered by several factors such as poor installation and broken seal. It
often starts, either if the filler tube becomes loose or if the pan gasket becomes defec-
tive. The bus transmission system is generally exposed to high temperatures, which
makes it prone to a lot of tear and wear. This can lead to an eventual breakdown,
thereby causing the fluid to leak.

Gear Slipping

This is another common bus gearbox problem. Slipping symptoms include:

– Transmission delay: Delayed response in the bus’s acceleration even after pressing
the gas.

– High RPM: Abnormal increase in revolutions per minute of the engine.

– Abrupt downshifting: When you are driving on a high gear at a constant speed and
the bus abruptly shifts to a low gear without changing speeds, the bus may be experi-
encing a slipping problem.

This problem can be attributed to incorrect fluid levels, broken bands or gears or even
internal clutch. To avoid this problem, ensure you regularly check the transmission
fluid levels.

Surging of Transmission
Abnormal jerking movements while changing gears is an indicator of transmission
surge. When the transmission engages or disengages, a defective gearbox doesn’t
smoothly shift into the new gear, and the bus engine delays to adjust to the new re-
sistance offered by the bus wheels. This transmission problem is often experienced at
lower gears.

Overheating

If your temperature indicator shows a high temperature but you find that your bus ra-
diator is just fine, then there is a possibility that the bus has a gearbox problem.
Overheating of the bus transmission system is often caused by clogged fluid cooler
lines. It can also be caused by a drop in the fluid levels or malfunctioning of the oil
pump. Damage to the fluid pump may also lead to overheating of the gearbox.

Noise

Due to prolonged tear and wear of gears or low levels of transmission fluids, knock-
ing noise might be heard. This indicates an imminent transmission failure.

2. F.I. PUMP

An Injection Pump is the device that pumps diesel (as the fuel) into the
cylinders of a diesel engine. Traditionally, the injection pump is driven indirectly
from the crankshaft by gears, chains or a toothed belt (often the timing belt) that also
drives the camshaft. It rotates at half crankshaft speed in a conventional four-stroke
diesel engine. Its timing is such that the fuel is injected only very slightly before top
dead centre of that cylinder's compression stroke. It is also common for the pump belt
on gasoline engines to be driven directly from the camshaft. In some systems
injection pressures can be as high as 200MPa .
There are generally two kinds of F.I. pumps used in a diesel engine which are (i)
inline pump and (ii) rotary pump. Both increase the pressure energy of the fuel to a
high value and injects into the cylinders via a distributor mechanism.

3. CLUTCH

A clutch is a mechanical device that engages and disengages the power transmission,
especially from driving shaft to driven shaft. In the simplest application, clutches
connect and disconnect two rotating shafts (drive shafts or line shafts). In these
devices, one shaft is typically attached to an engine or other power unit (the driving
member) while the other shaft (the driven member) provides output power for work.
While typically the motions involved are rotary, linear clutches are also possible.
Friction-disc clutches generally are classified as push type or pull type depending on
the location of the pressure plate fulcrum points. In a pull-type clutch, the action of
pressing the pedal pulls the release bearing, pulling on the diaphragm spring and
disengaging the vehicle drive. The opposite is true with a push type, the release
bearing is pushed into the clutch disengaging the vehicle drive. In this instance, the
release bearing can be known as a thrust bearing
Clutch problems and troubleshooting:

You cannot properly service a clutch until you know what is wrong with it. In
many instances, a clutch problem that seems to be severe is minor and easily reme-
died. In other cases, the solution involves replacing the clutch assembly or some other
major component .Check the easiest, most obvious solutions (such as clutch adjust-
ment) before removing the clutch. Also look beyond the clutch for possible solutions.
Consider the possibility the problem is something other than the clutch. Clutch discs
are like brake linings: they gradually wear out as they operate. Every time the clutch
is engaged or disengaged, some friction material is removed from the clutch disc. The
amount of material lost during each action is small, and most clutches will last for
50,000 miles(80,000 km) or more. It is normal for a clutch to wear out after this mile-
age is reached. Often, however, a clutch will not last as long as50,000 miles. Like any
other mechanical part, the clutch can be damaged by bus less or abusive operation.
Further, it can be damaged by outside factors—factors that cannot be attributed to the
vehicle operator. It is important for you, the technician, to find out what caused the
premature clutch damage, so the problem might be prevented in the future. As stated,
clutch problems can occur as a result of buseless operation. Driving with a foot rest-
ing on the clutch pedal is an example. This buseless habit, called riding the clutch,
causes the clutch to slip. As a result, excess heat is generated and premature wearing
of clutch friction surfaces occurs. Among the different ways clutches are misused,
riding the clutch is the most common. It can put the equivalent of 50,000 miles of
normal wear on a clutch in under 10,000 miles. Naturally, clutch problems can occur
as a result of abuse. An example is increasing engine speed and then suddenly releas-
ing the clutch pedal, allowing the pressure plate apply springs to engage the clutch
almost instantly .This is often referred to as dumping the clutch, or popping the
clutch. It causes instant heat build up in the clutch disc facings and places tremen-
dous stress on the clutch and then tire drive train. Clutches usually do not last very
long under this
type of abuse. Overheated clutch facings, a result of dumping the clutch, can become
glazed within seconds. This form of abuse can also cause flywheel, clutch cover,
or clutch housing attaching bolts to shear off. Further, It can cause clutch disc hub
splines to be stripped or input shafts to break. Placing more load on a clutch than it is
designed to handle can also be a source of damage. An example is starting off in
high, rather than in low, gear. Shifting into a higher gear before the engine has
reached the proper rpm also overloads the clutch, as does attempting to change gears
at very high engine speeds. Another example is overloading the vehicle to the point
that the clutch must be allowed to slip heavily when starting off, just to get the vehi-
cle moving. This is a common problem on vehicles used for towing. As stated, out-
side factors can also cause clutch damage. Oil leaks from the engine rear main bear-
ing seal or from the transmission front bearing retainer seal can reach the clutch disc.
If the disc gets contaminated with oil, it grabs or chatters when engaged. If enough oil
gets on the disc, it slips at all times and the disc surfaces soon wear out from the re-
sulting friction. If the disc becomes completely saturated with oil, the surface does
not wear out, but the disc itself becomes useless. Finally, many clutch problems are
due to lack of maintenance or buseless service. If the clutch linkage is not adjusted
and lubricated on schedule, or if the throw out bearing or clutch hub splines are not
properly
greased during installation, the moving parts may hang up or operate slowly. The
clutch is subjected to undesirable slippage, shortening its life. Slippage and other
problems exhibited in clutch operation are presented in detail in the upcoming para-
graphs.
Clutch Drag
If the clutch cannot be disengaged or it fails to release, you cannot shift gears. In this
situation, when you stop the vehicle in gear (clutch pedal depressed), the engine
stalls. This condition is known as clutch drag. Clutch drag varies in degree. Slight
drag when the clutch pedal is fully depressed may tend to make the bus creep when in
gear or cause gear clash when the gears are first engaged. The two most common
causes of slight drag are improper linkage adjustment and lack of lubrication at
the moving parts of the linkage. In some cases, the bus creeps during the clutch
spin down, wherein the disc continues to spin for several seconds after being disen-
gaged. To determine if this Is causing the creeping and not clutch drag, a simple test
can be performed (if the transmission is not fully synchronized).Depress the clutch
pedal, shift into Neutral, and wait about 30 seconds. Then, shift into an unsynchro-
nized gear, usually reverse. If the gear engages smoothly, the creeping is caused by
spin down, which is normal. If the gear clashes, the creeping is caused by clutch drag.
Clutch drag can be caused by a clutch linkage that is loose, disconnected, or inopera-
ble. The clutch fork inside the clutch housing may be disconnected from the
throw out bearing. A hydraulic linkage may be low on fluid—the reservoir may be
empty, or the cylinders or lines may be leaking. There might be air in the system. A
disconnected linkage or clutch fork or a dry hydraulic system is characterized by a
pedal that requires little, if any, effort to depress. A spongy pedal is the result of air in
a hydraulic linkage. Another possible cause of clutch drag is misalignment of the
transmission or clutch housing. This can happen as a result of loose bolts or as a re-
sult of debris between the mounting faces. Misalignment can cause the linkage or in-
ternal clutch parts to stick temporarily. Pedal effort will be normal or higher than
normal.
Clutch drag can also be caused by a worn or frozen pilot bearing, a sticking or
warped clutch disc, or a warped pressure plate or flywheel. A worn disc may become
so overheated, it welds itself to the pressure plate. When
these defects occur, the clutch linkage is working properly but the engine and trans-
mission remain mechanically connected. One of the most common causes of a drag-
ging clutch is too much pedal free travel. With excessive free travel, the pressure
plate may back off somewhat, but it will still retain contact with the disc when the
pedal is pushed to the floor. Always check the clutch linkage adjustment
when indications point to a dragging clutch.

Clutch Slippage

Clutch slippage is a condition wherein the full power of the engine does not reach the
transmission. The engine speeds up, but the vehicle speed does not increase as it
should. The clutch disc is not being gripped firmly, and it slips between the flywheel
and pressure plate as the members rotate.
4. ENGINE
An engine or motor, is a machine designed to convert one form of energy into
mechanical energy. Heat engines, including internal combustion engines and external
combustion engines (such as steam engines) burn a fuel to create heat, which then
creates a force. The diesel engine has the highest thermal efficiency (engine
efficiency) of any practical internal or external combustion engine due to its very
high compression ratio and inherent lean burn which enables heat dissipation by the
excess air.
Main troubles found and their diagnosis

01) Engine Will Not Start

A) Fuel- has at least six inches high in the tank and insures that the air breather is
open to avoid air-lock.
B) Engine too cool. Try to warm the engine or wait for improvement in weather
conditions.
C) Dirty fuel oil filters. Clean the fuel filter or replace it if necessary.
D) Cranking is too slow, run down battery. Re-charge the battery, tighten loose
connections, check key switch and solenoid relay.
E) Minimum speed adjusting screw on engine governor may be screwed out too far.
Set it as per requirement.

02) Engine Starts But Stalls As Receiver Pressure Builds Up

A) Severe cold weather may make it necessary to open the service valve.

03) Engine Starts and Receiver Pressure Builds But Machine Will Not Slow Down
or Unload

A) Check the drain cock on the control unit is closed.

B) Throttle controller pipe leaking or clogged. Clean if clogged and replace/repair if
leaking.

04) Engine Function Properly But Compressor Does Not Load Up Or Only Partially
Loads Up

A) Butterfly Valve Not Open. Take necessary action for free movement of butterfly
valve.
B) Air cleaner elements are clogged or dirty. Clean thoroughly or replace.

05) Engine Speed Low during Start Up

A) Battery improper. Check electrolyte level and specific gravity and recharge.
B) Loose wiring connection. Inspect and tighten.

06) Diesel Engine Shut Down Due To Insufficient Cooling

A) Low water level in indicator. Improve the water level by adding water.
B) Radiator clogged. Clean it immediately.
C) Dirt in fins. Blow out air in reverse direction to flow of air.
D) Faulty engine thermostat. Remove the fault as per instructions of manufacturer.
E) Operating pressure is above maximum allowable. Discharge the pressure and keep
it in limit.
F) Engine fan belt too loose. Adjust the tension of belts as per requirement.

07) Diesel Engine Shut Down Due To Low Engine Oil Pressure Or No Oil Pressure
Shown On Gauge

A) Oil level in crankcase of engine is low. Top up as required.

B) Compressor level setting is wrong. Level the compressor.
C) If engine running but no oil pressure shown on gauge, stop engine and check oil
pressure gauge on some known pressure. Check oil filter element for clogging.
Replace if required.
D) Check engine oil pump and screen. Take rectification action as per requirement.
E) Incorrect engine oil, oil line or oil pump screen can clog if incorrect oil grade is
used. Use proper lubrication oil as per instruction of engine manufacturer.

08) Discharge Air Contains Excessive Lubricating Oil

A) Oil line from separator to air-end blocked. Clean choke in return line.
B) If separated oil is returning to intake in the proper way, it is possible that oil
separator fiber glass wool discs needs replacement. Check separator shell for leak and
rectify, if required.
C) Oil level in air/oil receiver is too high. Correct the oil level as required, up to
middle in visual indicator.

09) Compressor Rotates In Reverse Direction When Shutdown with Pressure in the
Receiver

A) Discharge valve malfunctioning. Remove discharge valve. Inspect and rectify.

B) Oil check valve malfunctioning. Dismantle the oil check valve and inspect and
repair.

10) Safety Valve Blows

A) Controller not functioning. Check control filter, strainer. Clean and adjust rotation
per minute. (RPM)
B) Unloader transformer adjusted at higher pressure, adjust to proper pressure setting.
C) Butterfly valve not closing properly. Inspect and take necessary action.
D) Safety valve defective. Inspect and adjust, if necessary replace. Safety valve is to
be set at 10% higher pressure than the maximum unloading pressure.

5. BRAKE CHAMBER

Air brake chambers are round metal containers, located at each wheel, where
compressed air is converted into mechanical force to apply the brakes and stop the
vehicle. There are two kinds of air brake chambers — service and spring brake
chambers. A service brake chamber contains a flexible rubber disc called a
diaphragm, a metal rod called a pushrod and a return spring. When you press the
brake pedal, compressed air fills the service brake chamber, causing the diaphragm to
move and push out the pushrod to apply the brakes. When air pressure is released, the
pushrod is returned to its original position by the spring inside the chamber.

The pushrod and a lever — called a slack adjuster — link the brake chamber
to the brake assembly (which contains the brake drum or disc). When you press the
brake pedal, the pushrod extends farther from the brake chamber, moving the slack
adjuster forward. The motion of the slack adjuster transfers to the brake assembly,
causing the brake shoes or pads to make contact with the brake drum or disc.

This action of the pushrod extending from the brake chamber is called
pushrod stroke, and stroke length is the distance that the pushrod travels out of the
chamber. In the most common brake designs, some of the brake linkage — the
components linking the brake chamber to the brake assembly — is exposed. As a
result, the length of pushrod stroke can be measured and compared to the prescribed
adjustment limits for that size, type and style of brake chamber.

6.SLACK ADJUSTMENT

A Slack Adjuster is designed for use in S-Cam brakes which is mostly used in
trailer and trucks, that is commercial vehicles. You can also call it an adjusting nut
that is present on the back side of the brake drum and is used for brake adjustment.

Air-brake systems use compressed air to transmit pressure from the brake pedal to the
brake pads. They are typically used in larger vehicles such as trucks and buses. All
air-brake systems run the risk of moving out of adjustment over time. Out-of-
adjustment brakes are the most reported problem from roadside vehicle safety inspec-
tors. Out-of-adjustment brakes constitute a safety hazard, as vehicles with excessive
brake slack can be difficult to stop. All vehicles manufactured since 1994 have auto-
matic slack adjusters that adjust themselves during full brake applications. Automatic
adjusters should only require manual adjustment during installation. If a brake system
with automatic slack adjusters requires periodic adjustments, it is an indication that
the automatic slack adjusters are defective and should be repaired. All brake systems,
whether they have automatic or manual slack adjusters, should receive regularly
scheduled maintenance checkups.

7. OTHER BRAKE RELATED UNITS

An air brake or, more formally, a compressed air brake system, is a type of
friction brake for vehicles in which compressed air pressing on a piston is used to
apply the pressure to the brake pad needed to stop the vehicle. Air brakes are used in
large heavy vehicles, particularly those having multiple trailers which must be linked
into the brake system, such as trucks, buses, trailers, and semi-trailers in addition to
their use in railroad trains. George Westinghouse first developed air brakes for use
in railway service. He patented a safer air brake on March 5, 1872. Westinghouse
made numerous alterations to improve his air pressured brake invention, which led to
various forms of the automatic brake. In the early 20th century, after its advantages
were proven in railway use, it was adopted by manufacturers of trucks and
heavy road vehicles.
8.FRONT AXLE AND JOINT

Front wheels of the vehicle are mounted on front axles. Functions of front axle are
listed below :

(a) It supports the weight of front part of the vehicle.

(b) It facilitates steering.

(c) It absorbs shocks which are transmitted due to road surface irregularities.

(d) It absorbs torque applied on it due to braking of vehicle.

The main troubles found and there diagnosis

The main indicators of a rear axle bearing failure are noise, play and leaks.

Using noise from a rear axle to diagnose a wheel bearing can be difficult. Typical
bearing noise that you hear from a front-wheel bearing is dampened by the mass of
the axle assembly. If a customer can hear a bad rear-wheel bearing, chances are the
failure is catastrophic. Other components like differential and side bearings can
mimic wheel-bearing noise.

A “whirring” noise while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by
bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload. Some howls or whines during
acceleration over a speed range is usually caused by worn ring and pinion gears or
improper gear set up. Broken gears in the differential, a lack of sufficient lubrication
or the wrong lubrication can cause noise while cornering. Rumbles while cornering or
turning may indicate bad wheel bearings.

If a transmission or differential is whining and making noise, it’s too late to add oil.
The damage has already been done. Adding a higher viscosity oil may quiet it for
awhile, but once wear has taken its toll on the gears and bearings, there’s no magic
cure other than to overhaul the unit and replace the worn parts.
During an inspection of a solid rear axle vehicle, look for leaks at the ends of the
tubes and on the center section of the differential. The best way to detect a problem
with a rear axle is by visual inspection. Often a failed seal will contaminate the brake
pads or shoes. The customer may complain that their emergency brake is not holding
the vehicle.

Causes

If an axle hits a significant pothole or curb, the bearings and axle shaft surfaces take
the brunt of the abuse. An impact might cause brinelling and spalling damage. Over
time, a little area of damage can grow and cause extreme temperatures and internal
wear.

Loss of lubrication is another cause of bearing failure. If a leaking differential is

losing lubricant due to worn seals at the wheel ends or pinion, the wheel bearings will
not be properly lubricated on some axles.

Seals

The main killers of solid axle wheel bearings are failed seals. Most seals ride on the
axle shaft. They typically have a lip and a spring that hold the lip to the axle. When a
seal is installed, take your time installing the axle. Splines can damage the seal and
cause leaks.

The most important area on the axle shaft is where the seals and bearings make
contact. It must be free of rust and imperfections. Use only a fine grade emery paper
to clean the axle shaft between the flange and the worn area.

If the surface is grooved or dam-aged, the axle can be repaired with a sleeve on some
applications. If not, the axle should be replaced. Another option for some applications
is to install a bearing that repositions the bearing and seal to ride on unworn surfaces.

Make sure the new seal is installed in the correct position. A correctly installed
bearing may extend out from the housing up to ¼-inch. Some axle seals must be
positioned properly so pressures can be relieved and the lip can work.

Make sure the breathers on the axle are not clogged. The breather on some axles acts
as a PCV valve, keeping pressures within a certain range so the seals can work their
best as the differential heats and cools. If a breather is clogged, heat will increase
pressure in the axle. As the axle cools, a negative pressure could build up behind the
seal. These changes in pressure will cause the lips of the seals to deform and leak.
Any leak on an axle should be taken seriously. Ignoring a leak can be very expensive
and destroy the bearings, brakes and differential.

Bearings

Replacing rear-wheel bearings on a live-axle rear suspension has a few extra

steps when compared to a unitized bearing. To remove the axle shaft, the differential
must be accessed and the clips that hold the axle in the differential must be removed.

There are three bearing styles: conrad, roller and ball. Most axles use these types of
bearings in a bustridge-type arrangement. They are installed into the axle ends or
pressed onto the shaft and possibly held in place with a pressed on retainer. On some
axles, the bore on the housing is tapered and the bearing will fit in only one direction.
This is where measuring tools can save you time and maybe multiple part deliveries.

If an axle hits a significant pothole or curb, the bearings and axle shaft surfaces take
the brunt of the abuse. An impact might cause brinelling and spalling damage. Over
time, a little area of damage can grow and cause internal wear.
Some axles use a “floating” axle shaft design. This design takes the weight of vehicle
off the axle so all it has to do is transmit power. This allows the hub of the axle to
busry a greater load. Some of these axles use tapered roller bearings. Another
advantage of a floater axle is if the axle separates from the differential or flange, the
wheel will not fall off the axle. The most critical part of the disassembly is removing
the bearing and retainer from the shaft without damaging the axle shaft or housing.
Any damage to the surfaces upon which the seal or bearing rides can cause a
premature failure of the new bearing. A mistake made by some tech- nicians is
installing the parts in the wrong order. It’s not uncommon to press the new bearing
onto the axle only to realize the flange plate was not installed.
Another piece of advice is to look at the differential cover before you quote the job.
On snow-belt vehicles, the differential cover is prone to rust. Perforation does
happen, but chances are that prying on the weakened cover may distort it to the point
where it will never re-seal. Replacement covers are readily available and very
economical.

Differentials and Ring, Pinions

Servicing the ring and pinion and differential is a task that requires advanced skills
and tools. Setting up the pinion depth, backlash and tooth patterns takes time and can
vary drastically depending on the manufacturer. One tooth pattern may be acceptable
for one vehicle, but different for another; check the service manual.

If you are replacing a wheel bearing, inspect the gears and differential. Look for signs
of uneven wear on the toes and heels of the teeth. Also, look at the old fluid fordebris.
Replacing an Axle Housing

In rare cases, you will find that the axle is bent, corroded or damaged beyond repair.
Bare housings are available. Also, crate axles are available as a replacement option.
This is a great option if you do not have the tools or patience to set up the ring and
pinion of these axle assemblies offer an extensive warranty. Even though these
assemblies can be expensive, often the labor costs of stripping the old housing will
offset the part’s cost. When the new axle is installed, always measure the pinion
angle. Small changes can lead extra wear on the universal joints. Always perform an
alignment that measures the thrust angle and setback. On leaf spring rear suspensions,
plates to adjust or offset the locator pins are available. In the case of trailing arm
suspensions, there are solutions like adjustable arms, bushings and plus/minus arms
to adjust the thrust angle.

Rear Axle Lubricants

Oil is also necessary to cool gears and bearings. The total oil capacity of most
manual transmissions, differentials and transfer cases isn’t very much (typically a
couple of quarts or less), so it doesn’t take much fluid loss before parts start running
dangerously hot. If a transmission or differential is making noise, it’s too late to add
oil: the damage has already been done. Adding a higher viscosity oil may quiet it for
awhile, but once wear has taken its toll on the gears and bearings, there’s no magic
cure other than to overhaul the unit and replace the worn parts. Another reason for
changing the lubricant inside a manual transmission, transaxle, transfer case or
differential is to improve cold weather operation. Most conventional oils thicken as
the temperature drops. This increases friction, drag, fuel consumption and the effort
needed to shift gears.

During subzero weather, a heavy gear oil inside a manual transmission can make the
shifter feel stiff and clunky. The gears may even grind when changing gears until the
vehicle warms up. The cure here is to replace the conventional gear oil with synthetic
gear oil .Synthetic gear oils have many advantages compared to conventional
petroleum-based oils. Synthetics are more stable, flow more easily at low
temperatures, reduce friction and operating temperatures, improve fuel economy and
generally provide superior all-round lubrication and protection under a wide range of
operating conditions. But, they are also more expensive.

9 POWER STEERING
 Hydraulic or electric actuators add controlled energy to the steering mecha-
nism, so the driver can provide less effort to turn the steered wheels when driving at
typical speeds, and reduce considerably the physical effort necessary to turn the
wheels when a vehicle is stopped or moving slowly. Power steering can also be engi-
neered to provide some artificial feedback of forces acting hon the steered wheels.

Representative power steering systems for buss augment steering effort via an actua-
tor, a hydraulic cylinder that is part of a servo system. These systems have a direct
mechanical connection between the steering wheel and the linkage that steers the
wheels. This means that power-steering system failure (to augment effort) still per-
mits the vehicle to be steered using manual effort alone.

Common troubles and there diagnosis

The power steering in a vehicle is what allows the driver to turn the wheel with
ease. When the vehicle experiences power steering problems, it can be extremely
tough to turn the wheel, and in some cases, the vehicle experiences complete steer-
ing lock-up. As soon as the vehicle shows any signs of steering problems, it needs
to be diagnosed by the driver, or a professional mechanic. There are several things
to look for when diagnosing power steering problems and many of them the driver
can do without professional assistance. Check the Fluid Levels If the steering
wheel on the vehicle becomes stiff and hard to turn, the first thing the driver should
check is the power steering fluid levels. Most drivers know to check the fluids in a
vehicle, such as the brake fluid, oil, gas, or coolant, but not as many know to check
the power steering fluid. If the power steering fluid is low, it may indicate there is a
leak or a problem with the power steering pump. Fill the power steering pump with
fluid and keep an eye on the levels over the next several days to ensure the pump is
not leaking.
Check the Steering Pump Belt
The steering pump belt does not usually snap off all at once. Instead, it slips and
causes steering problems. The problems generally only displayed at certain times,
such as taking the bus up to a high speed, driving in the rain, or when turning the
bus in a certain direction. Jack the front of the vehicle into the air and have a friend
turn the steering wheel from left to right several times. Listen for a screeching or
whining noise coming from under the bus. One should see the belt slip when it be-
gins to whine and screech. Make sure the vehicle is off and adjust the belt. If you
are uncomfortable with adjusting the power steering belt, a professional mechanic
should be consulted.

10 CROWN AND PINION

A differential is a particular type of simple planetary gear train that has the
property that the angular velocity of its bus rier is the average of the angular
velocities of its sun and annular gears. This is accomplished by packaging the gear
train so it has a fixed bus rier train ratio R = -1, which means the gears corresponding
to the sun and annular gears are the same size. This can be done by engaging the
planet gears of two identical and coaxial epi cyclic gear trains to form a spur gear
differential. Another approach is to use bevel gears for the sun and annular gears and
a bevel gear as the planet, which is known as a bevel gear differential.
 11.Leaf Springs

To assure proper spring life, the maintenance and inspection process must include the
entire suspension system of springs and chassis parts. The motoring public has learned
that proper maintenance on their vehicles is essential to obtain longer life and econom-
ical service in this age of rising equipment and fuel costs. In most normal maintenance
checks, the spring suspension system is sorely overlooked, but a minimum of attention
to the spring suspension would yield a longer and more reliable suspension system
service. When warriors of old made punctures in each other with sharp rapiers, the
swordsmen liked to test the integrity of their rapiers by bending them almost double to
make sure the rapiers would not break in actual combat. It is customary practice, of
some leaf spring manufacturers, to test every assembled spring in a "bulldozer". This
bends the spring farther than it could ever be bent in actual service before the axle
makes metal-to-metal contact with the frame. While this does test the spring, and
would reveal any flaws existing in the steel, the real purpose is something else. By
bending the spring farther in the bulldozer; than it would ever go in actual service; this
stresses the metal, on the tension side of the leaves, a little beyond the yield point. This
"pre-sets" the spring so that it will reduce, settle or sag in actual use, and steering
alignments will be better maintained. It is obviously impractical to "pre-set" coil
springs beyond normal operating compression, because the adjacent coils of a helical
spring make contact with each other-before the maximum yield point is reached. This
would seem to be the reason why coil spring front suspensions frequently settle or sag,
during the first five or ten thousand miles of use, and then have to be replaced in order
to restore normal steering alignments. While these rebound clips should control the
leaves, they should not bind the ends of the leaves against lengthwise motion on each
other. The width of the clip should be 1/16 inch or more over the nominal width of the
spring. The spacer tube, over the spring clip bolt, maintains this width clearance. There
should also be clearance between the spacer tube of the clip, and the main leaf of the
spring to: Allow the "twist" to be distributed over a greater length of the main leaf
when one wheel goes over a bump or drops in a rut, thus placing the axle at an angle.
Clips near the ends of the spring should have greater clearance.Clearance prevents
rubbing of spacer tube on and consequent wear and weakening of the main leaf.Clip
bolts should be assembled with the head of the bolt away from the tire, so that if a nut
should loosen and the clip bolt comes partly out, it will not cut the tire, and the nut end
of the bolt should be peened over to prevent the nut from backing off.

Main troubles and diagnosis

By the feel of the ride, by the position of the vehicle body This gives ample time to
replace it, before other leaves are damaged by the overload. However, let's not
overwork this safety factor, but use reasonably buseful driving to finish the day's run
and then replace the broken leaf-before any other leaves are damaged by the
"concentration" of stress over the edge of the broken leaf. However, if the main leaf is
broken (unless the second leaf is of the wrapper" type, or there is a military wrap of the
spring eye) it may be preferable to tow the vehicle to the spring service station. With
either the military wrap of the second leaf around the eye of the main leaf, or the
wrapper type of second leaf, the vehicle may usually proceed under its own power to
the nearest repair facility, but this is not recommended. Moving a vehicle with a
broken main leaf is extremely hazardous not only to the operator but to the component
parts of the suspension due to abnormal movement of the axle. On the road. A
tendency to "strike bottom" or hit the rubber bumpers may result from:
excessive overload sagged springs. Springs of modern design are usually nearly flat-
under normal full load conditions. When springs are nearly flat, they are in a better
position to endure constant flexing, and they also tend to act as straight radius rods and
so maintain axle positions and steering alignments more accurately. Consequently,
when such modern springs have "reverse camber," the vehicle may be suspected of:
being overloaded sagged springs Springs of earlier designs often had more "arch" or
camber and so may not have reverse camber, even when overloaded or sagged.
Position and condition of shackles should be noted, to see if the angles of these
shackles on the two sides of the vehicle are the same. The design of spring shackles is
such to allow the spring free movement throughout its entire cycle from unloaded to
"striking bottom." Proper design will also slow down the oscillation rate, or rate of
bounce, and so gives a more comfortable ride. The shackle angle, for that particular
vehicle, should be used as a guide. Wrong shackle angle may indicate a spring that is
too long or too short for that vehicle. Also some present designs are in reverse camber
under full load and are not overstressed in this position.

12.TYRE SECTION
A tire (American English) or tyre (British English)[1] is a ring-shaped vehicle
component that covers the wheel's rim to protect it and enable better vehicle
performance. Most tires, such as those for automobiles and bicycles,
provide traction between the vehicle and the road while providing a flexible cushion
that absorbs shock.

Major works that are being considered in KSRTC Aluva are:

 Patch works

 Resoling

 Printing grades

 Distribution of resoled tyres

13.PROPELLER SHAFT
Propeller shaft is a mechanical component for transmitting torque and rotation,
usually used to connect other components of a drive train that cannot be connected
directly because of distance or the need to allow for relative movement between
them.

As torque bus riers , drive shafts are subject to torsion and shear stress, equivalent to
the difference between the input torque and the load. They must therefore be strong
enough to bear the stress, whilst avoiding too much additional weight as that would in
turn increase their inertia.

To allow for variations in the alignment and distance between the driving and driven
components, drive shafts frequently incorporate one or more universal joints, jaw
couplings, or rag joints, and sometimes a splined joint or prismatic joint.

Major troubles and diagnosis.

Abnormal noises – Similar with determining if your brakes are in need of repair,
strange sounds can clue you in on issues you may be having with your drive shaft.
Oftentimes, this could be rattling or clunking noises when the bus is moving. You
may even notice a squeaking sound as your bus accelerates and decelerates, but dis-
appears as you travel at consistently higher speeds, such as on the freeway. Noises
are usually a clear giveaway that something is off with your vehicle. It’s easy to ig-
nore if they come and go, but doing so can cause more damage to your bus and cost
you more than if you address the problem when you first notice it.

Intense vibrations – While some vibrations are normal while you’re driving, if your
drive shaft is starting to fail, you may notice more intense shaking or trembling, espe-
cially within the floorboards. These sorts of vibrations will be most noticeable when
accelerating or driving at higher speeds. Though intense vibrations while accelerating
could also be a sign of a bad tire, issues with the drive shaft are felt while the bus is
simply moving.

Difficulty turning – A failing drive shaft will often prevent the tires from properly
turning, which you’re most likely to notice as you try to maneuver around corners.
You could feel a hesitation or resistance in your wheels as you attempt to turn, or ex-
perience difficulty parking, as you try to turn into tight, limited spaces, or around oth-
er buss.

Visible wear and tear – At both ends of the drive shaft are universal joints, or C.V.
joints. Universal joints can indicate there are issues with your drive shaft if you see
rust surrounding them or notice that they’re worn or damaged. They may even be too
loose or simply won’t rotate, and any excess movement can have further negative af-
fects on your drive shaft.

If you notice any of these kinds of issues with your vehicle, it’s imperative that you
consult your local transmission repair facility right away to see if your drive shaft
needs replacement or repair before further damage occurs. Give us a call if you’re in
the Grand Rapids area and are experiencing these symptoms. We can answer any of
your questions and keep you safe on the roads.

14.ELECTRICAL WORKS

Problem: Starter does not turn or turns over slowly when key is turned.

Solution #1: Check the rest of the electrical system for the correct voltage, grounds,
and wiring. Often, the starter is misdiagnosed as the culprit for electrical system prob-
lems when the problem really lies in some other area of the system.
Solution #2: Check your battery voltage and make sure it is sufficient to turn your
new starter. Most starters require at least 9.6 volts to turn over correctly.

Solution #3: Check your battery cables and make sure they are in good shape. Bad
cables will not deliver the full current flow needed operate the starter.

Solution #4: Clean the starter mounting surface. Most starters are grounded through
the mounting block, and if there is excessive oil or paint on the block, the starter will
have a faulty ground.

Solution #5: If your vehicle has a neutral safety switch, make sure it is operational. If
this switch is bad or not properly wired, the starter will not operate correctly. You can
check by attaching a jumper wire between the safety switch terminal and the main
terminal on the starter. If it turns over with the key, the switch is either bad or wired
incorrectly.

Solution #6: Confirm that you purchased a starter designed to work with your en-
gine’s compression ratio. Engines with 11:1 or higher compression generally require
a high-torque, gear-reduction starter. Otherwise, the engine will turn over slowly.

Problem: Starter does not engage or disengage properly.

Solution #1: Due to variances in design between manufacturers, you may need to in-
stall or remove starter shimsbetween the starter mounting block and engine. If the
starter is engaging too hard, install shims at the mounting point. If there’s not enough
engagement, the starter is not catching enough teeth on the flexplate, and you’ll need
to remove the shims.

Problem: Starter failed shortly after installation.

Solution #1: Confirm that you purchased a starter designed to work with your en-
gine’s compression ratio. Engines with 11:1 or higher compression generally require
a high-torque, gear-reduction starter. Otherwise, the engine will turn over slowly.

Solution #2: Check the position of your starter in relation to your headers. If your
starter is continuously heat soaked from exhaust heat, chances are it will fail early.
You’ll either need a different starter design, or you’ll have to install a starter heat
shield with your next starter.

Solution #3: Clean the starter mounting surface. Most starters are grounded through
the mounting block, and if there is excessive oil or paint on the block, the starter will
have a faulty ground. This will cause the starter to pull excessive amps, making it
overheat and wear out.

Problem: Starter does not bolt up correctly.

Solution: General Motors used two different mounting patterns on Chevy blocks: in-
line and staggered. If you have a Chevy engine block, make sure your starter has the
correct bolt pattern for your engine.

Problem: Starter does not fit with my headers.

Solution #1: For starters with “clockable” mounting blocks, you’ll need to experi-
ment with the different mounting positions. If this doesn’t work, you may need to
swap your starter for an adjustable mounting block starter.

Solution #2 (Chevy applications): Confirm the mounting block of the starter is at-
tached to the engine correctly. Often, these blocks are installed upside down, making
it impossible to achieve the correct starter position.

Symptoms of a bad starter:

Starter problems fall in several categories:

Slow turning over of the engine

(1) Your motor turns over very slowly. Dash lights get really dim while cranking
engine, battery terminals get hot, along with the entire battery cable
If your lights are bright with the engine off, but they get really dim when you turn the
engine over with the starter, and the engine turns over very slowly, you may have a
starter problem. If freshly cleaned battery terminals get hot along with the entire bat-
tery cable (positive and negative) you probably have a bad starter.

A starter doing this has worn out brushes, bushings, or shorted windings or commuta-
tor. It need a complete rebuild or replacement.

You turn the key and nothing happens

2) You turn the key to start, and either nothing happens, or there is a very quiet single
click . Sometimes if you keep trying it will start.

This starter is probably worn out also. There could be a wiring problem, anything
from the key switch to any number of safety interlocks and antitheft devices, but most
of the time it's the starter. On starters with the solenoid on top (GM, most others) the
solenoid grounds through the starter brushes, so when the brushes make bad contact
you get the "silent treatment" when you turn the key. The small wire going to the
starter solenoid shouild get 12 volts or so when the key is turned to "start". If 12 volts
is there and there is no action, then the starter is probably bad.

Starter Drive or "Bendix"

4) Another way starters fail is in the "bendix" or starter drive. Your bus will start to
turn over with the starter, then suddenly make a rrrrrrr-ing! kind of noise, and the en-
gine will stop rotating while the starter motor keeps going! Although it's possible to
relace the starter drive or Bendix, usually when it fails the brushes, etc. are about
gone also. With this along with other starter failures you're usually better off rebuild-
ing the entire starter Abnormal noises – Similar with determining if your brakes are
in need of repair, strange sounds can clue you in on issues you may be having with
your drive shaft. Oftentimes, this could be rattling or clunking noises when the bus is
moving. You may even notice a squeaking sound as your bus accelerates and decel-
erates, but disappears as you travel at consistently higher speeds, such as on the free-
way. Noises are usually a clear giveaway that something is off with your vehicle. It’s
easy to ignore if they come and go, but doing so can cause more damage to your bus
and cost you more than if you address the problem when you first notice it.

15.VOH AND NEW BODY

Another astonishing feature about KSRTC R/W Aluva is the NEW BODY section. It
deals with every body works and interior works of the KSRTC buses. The processes
in this section are;

1. Cutting and grinding of metal frames

2. Bending

3. Phosphating

4. Dipping/Painting

5. Structure –frame welding

6. Mounting of frame

7. Sheet metal works-platform, sides and roof

8. Upholstery

9. Electrical works-lights and doors

10. Final checking.

 CONCLUSION

KSRTC Aluva , Regional workshop works as an efficient institution of the

Govt. of Kerala in running the as far as possible the best workshop for every works
related to their service buses. It takes buses of every ,even the smallest , works related
buses so that people can benefit from a comfortable journey.

KSRTC holds a big plot of land which is divided into various sections that meets
different works as mentioned above. We are very thankful to the institution head H .R
,Works manager and all the staffs helping and guiding us for an excellent experience
in this internship program. We are also grateful to our Principal ,HOD ,Tutors for
giving us an opportunity for internship.