Sport & Age Group: Climbing, high school age (14-17), 12 athletes

Coaches: Tyler Gadigian, Danny Hickey

Date: October 1st
Time: 7:00-9:00 PM
Location: The cliffs climbing and fitness, Valhalla NY
Season: Bouldering competition Season, practice #5
Objective: Teach and provide time to practice heel hooking and toe hooking, especially in a
competitive setting.
Groups: 2 groups of 6, 1 captain with each group. 6 groups of 2 based on skill level
Equipment:
- Laser Pointer
- Chalk bag
- Clip board + printed practice plan
- Coaches climbing shoes + chalk
- 2 stop watches
- Pull-up bar
- 2 Pre-set heel hook 1-move climb (45 and arete)
- 2 Pre-set toe hook 1-move climb (45 and arete)
- 2 sets of 2 Pre-set Competition-style climbs with:
- 1 with heel hook (Baby/Arch)
- 1 with toe hook (mushroom/slab)
- 1 with combination (dihedral/low-o)

7:00-7:30 Warm-up:
● 7:00-7:05 Heart rate & blood
flow: 5 rounds 10 jumping jacks 3
burpees. The goal is to elevate the
heart rate and increase blood flow
● 7:05-7:12 Basic Climbing specific:
4x half upstairs Traverse (groups
start at opposite sides and switch
after 2). The goal is to increase
blood flow to the forearms and
fingers specifically while starting to
warm up climbing technique
○ Use “quiet feet” cue to
emphasize foot work
● 7:12-7:18 Full Body Basic
Mobility: Dynamic stretching (use
cue of “good posture” to reinforce
safe positioning). The goal is to
maintin blood flow and begin mobilizing necessary ranges of motion.
○ Upper Body
■ 10 I-swings
■ 10 T-swings
■ Arm circles 10 forward 10 back

1
 ○ Lower Body
■ 10 Frankensteins
■ 10 Butt kicks
■ 10 side hip swings
■ 10 heel kicks (hip flexor stretch)
● 7:18-7:22 Lower Body mobility specific to drills: Static stretching (lower body only).
The goal is to warm up the lower body mobility for the high demands of heel and toe
hooking.
○ Lunge 10 seconds each leg
○ 1 leg in 1 leg out, 10 seconds each leg
○ Straddle, 10 seconds each leg, 10 seconds middle
○ 10 second cobra arch
● 7:22-7:30 Progressing climbing specific: 1 boulder problem per grade up to 2-grades
below max. The goal is to progressively increase climbing specific intensity to prepare
for the upcoming drills.

7:30-7:42 Drill #1: Heel Hooks (Repeat of previous Practice)

Station #1: 7:30-7:36
Station #2: 7:36-7:42
Each group of six goes to
different area to meet coach
(Tyler at 45, Danny at arete).
Using the laser pointer, point
out the holds used to
demonstrate a 1-move heel
hook climb. Demonstrate (or
have experienced group
member demonstrate) the
desired move. Since the athletes
worked on this last practice,
briefly re-introduce and re-
emphasize cues:
● Hips in (keep your hips
close to the wall with
your butt engaged)
● Turn out (keep hip externally rotated to avoid hamstring strain)
● Toes down (keep toes pointed to engage calf and increase toe scum on wall)
● Locked knee (imagine squeezing your knee closed and don't let it open)
Have each athlete in group of six try the move at least twice on each climb. If an athlete cannot
complete the move, offer modification: either closer holds, larger starting hold, or give power
spot.

2
7:42-7:55 Drill #2: Toe Hooks
Station #1: 7:42-7:48
Station #2: 7:48-7:55
Each group of six to original
area to meet coach (Tyler at 45,
Danny at arete). Using the laser
pointer, point out the holds used
to demonstrate a 1-move toe
hook climb. Demonstrate (or
have experienced group member
demonstrate) the desired move.
Explain what toe hooking is
(using the top of the foot and
shoe rubber on a hold), when it
is used (when there is a surface that your foot can hook on and need to control your body from
barn dooring), and how to do it properly. Cues:
● Hips High (keep your hips close to the wall with your back engaged. Focus on
lengthening up rather than pulling in)
● Toes Flexed (keep foot dorsiflexed and toes flexed back, might feel cramp in shin)
● Straight Leg (keep quad flexed)
Have each athlete in group of six try the move at least three times on each climb. If an athlete
cannot complete the move, offer modification: either closer holds, larger starting hold, or give
power spot.

7:55-8:10 Drill #3: 4x4

Each group of 2 will
pick 1 climb 2 grades below
their max. Let them pick
groups of 2 based on ability. 1
climber will go while the other
rests. They will climb 1 climb
4 times as quickly as they can
with good technique and no
rest. Rest period is as long as
the other person takes to do
their set. The group is done
when they have both
completed 4 sets of this. They
have done this by now in the
season, but give a brief recap
of the drill. Coaches standing at opposite sides observing for technique and safety. The goal is to
increase power-endurance and “tire out’ the climbers before the mock comp to simulate climbing
tired.Cues:
● Even breathing (don't hold your breath, control it and keep it steady)
● Avoid overgrip (don't squeeze harder than you need to)

3
8:10-840: Drill #4: Comp Practice
Each group of 6 will start at one
set of 3 climbs (Danny watching 1 set,
Tyler watches the other). The set that
each group does not climb on will be
used next practice. The goal with this
is to integrate the skills learned into the
conditions of a competition style
setting. The rules are as follows
(standard Flash/finals-style
Competition rules):
● Each climber will get 3
minutes to attempt each
climb
● Immediately following
the 3 minute attempt,
the climber will sit or
stand facing away from
the wall (no looking
allowed) for a 3 minute
rest period
● When climber 1 is resting, climber 2 will begin problem 1, etc.
● If they finish the climb before the time is expired, or do not wish to attempt
further, they may rest
Make sure that the athletes keep track of their high point and number of attempts on each climb.
Ask them where they think they could have improved their tactical decisions (i.e. limiting
attempts, reading the problem better, trying alternative beta).

8:40-8:55 Conditioning circuit:

Same 2 groups of 6, split into 2 stations with 3 exercises each. The group of six will split
themselves further into groups of 2 and do exercises at the same time. Each group will do each
exercise for 1 minute straight with no rest between exercises. There will be a 3 minute rest for
rotating between stations.
Station #1:
- Push ups
- Pull ups
- Squat jumps
Station #2:
- Burpees
- Leg lifts
- Bicycle crunches

4
8:55-9:00 Cool Down:
Static Stretching (15 seconds per stretch) with “good posture” cue. The goal is to increase
flexibility and speed up recovery from the damage done during the high-demand skills earlier in
the practice. Cues remain the same from the earlier stretching opportunities.
Upper Body
- Downward dog
- Cobra arch
- Back bridge
- Arm over head
Lower Body
- Split progression
- Lunge
- Elbows to heel
- Reach back
quad
- Straight front
leg chin to toes
- Slide down
- Straddle progression
- 5 side lifts with 5 second isometric hold on 5th
- 1 leg out no support hold
- Chest to floor straddle
- Both legs no support max depth

Comments/Evaluations
1. Ask how they climbers are feeling about toe and heel hooking. Have them repeat cues
together.
2. Ask how the 4x4s felt and how many times people fell.
3. Ask how the problems in the mock competition felt. Ask what their high points were and
how many attempts they gave. Ask how they could improve on their strategic decisions
for next time.