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Food Quality and Preference 19 (2008) 565–573

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Food Quality and Preference


journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/foodqual

The role of expectancy in sensory and hedonic evaluation: The case of


smoked salmon ice-cream
Martin R. Yeomans a,*, Lucy Chambers a, Heston Blumenthal b, Anthony Blake c
a
Department of Psychology, School of Life Sciences, University of Sussex, Falmer, Brighton BN1 9QH, UK
b
The Fat Duck Restaurant, Bray Oxford, UK
c
Firmenich Research, Geneva, Switzerland

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Our experience of flavour involves integration of multiple sensory inputs, and the hedonic evaluation of
Received 15 August 2007 this complex flavour experience is important in determination of food choice. The appearance of food also
Received in revised form 7 February 2008 generates expectations about food flavour, and past work suggests that these expectations if confirmed
Accepted 24 February 2008
enhance the flavour experience. What is less clear is what happens when cues prior to ingestion predict
Available online 4 March 2008
a flavour which is in marked contrast to the actual flavour characteristics. To test this, we conducted three
experiments where expectations about food flavour were generated by plausible but inaccurate food
labels for a highly novel food, smoked-salmon ice-cream. In Experiment 1, the experience of the food
Keywords:
Flavour
in the mouth generated strong dislike when labelled as ice-cream, but acceptance when labelled as frozen
Hedonics savoury mousse. Labelling the food as ice-cream also resulted in stronger ratings of how salty and
Expectancy savoury the food was than when labelled as a savoury food. Experiment 2 confirmed these findings,
and also found that an uninformative label also resulted in acceptable liking ratings. Experiment 3 explic-
itly tested the effect of labels on flavour expectation, and confirmed that the ice-cream label generated
strong expectations of a sweet, fruity flavour, consistent with the visual appearance of the ice-cream,
but in marked contrast to the flavour of salty fish. As in Experiments 1 and 2, liking was minimal when
the food was tasted after the ice-cream label condition, but liking was acceptable in the other label con-
ditions. These data show that the contrast between expected and actual sensory qualities can result in a
strong negative affective response and enhancement of the unexpected sensory qualities.
Ó 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

1. Introduction pounds released from food, mechanoreception contributing to


our perception of texture and providing information on tempera-
Although the senses are anatomically separate, they rarely ture, pain arising from oral irritants and hearing that results from
operate independently since the majority of stimuli in the environ- sounds and vibrations coming from the mouth contributing to
ment stimulate multiple senses. The increased recognition that our our perception of aspects of texture. The focus of the present paper
sensory experience reflects integration of these multiple sensory is on a further aspect of the multi-sensory experience of flavour,
inputs has been applied to many experiences, most notably in how expectations about food flavour arising from visual and cogni-
the current context to our experience of food flavour (e.g., Delwi- tive cues prior to ingestion modify our hedonic and sensory expe-
che, 2004; Keast, Dalton, & Breslin, 2004; Small, Jones-Gotman, Za- rience of the flavour of food in the mouth.
torre, Petrides, & Evans, 1997). Although the experience of the The visual appearance of a food is well known to influence fla-
sensory qualities of a food are often described in terms of how it vour recognition. Thus many studies have shown that the presence
‘‘tastes”, in practice this experience of flavour is a complex interac- of a congruent colour enhances the ability to identify food and
tion between multiple sensory experiences. Arguably, multi-sen- drink stimuli, relative to presentation of the same stimuli without
sory integration may be at its most extreme in the case of a colour cue or with an incongruent colour (Dubose, Cardello, &
flavour perception since few other experiences offer the opportu- Maller, 1980; Stillman, 1993; Teerling, 1992). Further evidence of
nity for concomitant stimulation of all the major senses: gustation cross-modal associations within food-related stimuli involving vi-
through the five primary tastes, olfaction through both ortho- and sual cues comes from studies of interactions between visual and
retronasal stimulation of olfactory receptors by volatile com- olfactory stimuli. For example, when a white wine was coloured
red, the sensory descriptors applied to the odour of the wine were
* Corresponding author. Tel.: +44 1273 678617; fax: +44 1273 678058. consistently terms used normally for red rather than white wine
E-mail address: martin@sussex.ac.uk (M.R. Yeomans). (Morrot, Brochet, & Dubourdieu, 2001). Thus, in the absence of

0950-3293/$ - see front matter Ó 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
doi:10.1016/j.foodqual.2008.02.009
566 M.R. Yeomans et al. / Food Quality and Preference 19 (2008) 565–573

appropriate visual cues, the actual olfactory quality of the wine had (e.g., that it scored 1.9 on a 9 point liking scale) generated expecta-
little impact on the way in which the wine odour was described, tions in line with these ratings (Cardello, & Sawyer, 1992). Accord-
with instead the colour predominating. Likewise, explicit detection ingly, a positive expectation lead to a small increase in actual rated
of both food-related and non-food odours was enhanced when the liking on tasting the product (assimilation) although an expecta-
odour was presented alongside a congruent picture (e.g., ice-cream tion of a disliked flavour had minimal effects on actual liking for
picture presented with vanillin, see Gottfried, & Dolan, 2003), and the tasted product. Effects on sensory qualities were clearer: being
likewise speed and accuracy of odour detection was faster for con- told that a product had a bitter taste increased rated bitterness on
gruent odour-colour pairings (e.g., strawberry odour and pink col- tasting, while expectations of low bitterness tended to decrease
our) than for incongruent pairings (Luisa Dematte, Sanabria, & bitterness evaluations. The authors concluded that the study pro-
Spence, 2006). One explanation for these effects is that the visual vided evidence for the assimilation model: actual and expected
cue sets up an expectation of the flavour to be experienced in the sensory experience combined to generate the overall flavour expe-
mouth as a consequence of past associations between the visual rience and liking. In relation to evaluation of liking, recent research
appearance and perceived flavour of similar food stimuli. Indeed, conducted under semi-naturalistic conditions in a cafeteria sup-
it has been argued that such associations are likely to be memor- ports the idea of assimilation. Thus, the use of evocative descriptive
ised without any explicit attention or learning (Koster, Prescott, menu names resulted in stronger positive evaluations of the food
& Koster, 2004), highlighting further the key role of memory in after it had been consumed than when the same food had been la-
developing food-based expectancies (Mojet, & Koster, 2005). belled by nutritionally accurate but non-evocative names (Wan-
An important methodology in examining the role of expecta- sink, van Ittersum, & Painter, 2005). Likewise, labelling a tomato
tions in determining our experience of flavour has been to manip- soup with a name implying a higher quality (e.g., ‘‘Gastronome’s
ulate the congruence between pre-ingestive visual and cognitive Connoisseur’s Choice Cream of Tomato” relative to ‘‘McTaggart’s
cues and the actual sensory quality (taste and/or odour) once the Lean and Low Tomato”) resulted in significantly higher hedonic
sample has been ingested, extrapolating the exploration of the ef- ratings for the same soup regardless of actual nutrient content
fects of congruence in interactions between tastes and odours (Yeomans, Lartamo, Procter, Lee, & Gray, 2001), and also resulted
(Frank, & Byram, 1988; Labbe, Damevin, Vaccher, Morgenegg, & in higher ratings of creaminess of the soup.
Martin, 2006). In most circumstances, visual cues will be a reliable In the examples above, actual evaluations of foods generally
indicator of the actual flavour quality of a food, both in terms of changed to be more in line with the expected quality even though
overall recognition of the nature of the food and also whether there was a discrepancy between the expected and actual qualities
the food is in an appropriate state to be ingested. However, when of these stimuli. However, as discussed earlier, although most
there is a lack of congruence between the expected and actual sen- studies of effects of expectations on evaluations of foods result in
sory quality of a food, this may lead to perceptual confusion and so assimilation, in some cases such discrepancies can lead to a de-
alter the sensory experience itself. crease in the rated quality (contrast effect) rather than assimilation
Alongside a clear literature on the extent to which visual For example, a strong expectation that an unusual breath freshener
appearance may alter our ability to identify, and to some extent (Jintan) had a pleasant taste (ie was a form of ‘‘Japanese candy”) re-
modify the sensory quality of a food or drink, the extent to which sulted in markedly lower liking ratings than when Jintan was as-
expectations about flavour also modify our hedonic evaluation of a sessed without expectation (Zellner, Strickhouser, & Tornow,
food has also received attention (Cardello, 2007; Deliza, & Macfie, 2001).
1996). Actual food choice often occurs based on written or verbal A key question is then what determines whether information
description of a food, even before the actual food has been seen. about a product leads to an enhanced evaluation (assimilation)
Thus, in restaurants our choice is based on expectations of liking or a decrease (contrast)? Recent reviews suggest a number of fac-
for flavours implicit in descriptions of the potential foods on offer, tors may be important (Cardello, 2007; Schifferstein, 2001). Firstly,
with the expectation that the description and actual sensory qual- the size of the discrepancy: where the difference between actual
ity will be congruent. In relation to food flavour, congruence has and expected qualities are small, the difference may not be noted,
been defined as ‘‘the extent to which two stimuli are appropriate and so assimilation takes place, whereas if the discrepancy is large,
for combination in a food product” (Schifferstein, & Verlegh, contrast may occur. This effect is captured well by the affect expec-
1996), and has been widely used to denote the impact of percep- tation model (Wilson, Lisle, Kraft, & Wetzel, 1989). Where the dis-
tual similarity between elements in food flavour on changes in sen- crepancy is not apparent, the expectation is no longer a point of
sory quality. For example, perceptual similarity between an odour reference and so is not directly compared with the actual qualities.
and taste was a good predictor of taste intensity (Frank, Shaffer, & In relation to food, several studies report findings consistent with
Smith, 1991). this idea (see Cardello, 2007 for review). A second factor is the
Expectations about the sensory quality of a stimulus can alter strength of the expectation: even where there is a large discrep-
liking and perception of that stimulus in two contrasting ways. ancy between expected and actual properties, assimilation may oc-
Firstly, the sensed and expected sensory qualities may combine, cur if the expectation is very strong. In relation to food, an
so resulting in actual evaluations which are closer to the expected important test of these ideas was reported by Zellner et al.
evaluation than is seen when the same item is evaluated without (2001). Their participants’ evaluated two novel foods, Jintan and
prior expectation. These outcome can be explained by assimilation guanabana nectar, with expectation about liking manipulated by
theory, first proposed in relation to attitudinal change in social the information provided beforehand. Assimilation occurred where
psychology (Hovland, Harvey, & Sherif, 1957), where attitudes expectation were based on specific information about the nature of
are adjusted by prior expectation. In relation to perception of the the food (e.g., where participants assessing Jintan were told that
qualities of food stimuli, many studies have reported assimilation other assessors had rated this as very disliked), even when the ex-
effects, both in relation to affective (liking) evaluations and sensory tent of the expected dislike was much greater than that seen when
evaluations (Cardello, & Sawyer, 1992; Deliza, & Macfie, 1996; Kah- the food was evaluated without prior expectations, but contrast
konen, Tuorila, & Rita, 1996; Lange, Rousseau, & Issanchou, 1999; was seen where the expectation and actual experience were very
Schifferstein, Kole, & Mojet, 1999; Tuorila, Cardello, & Lesher, different. The findings by Zellner and colleagues are important
1994). For example, verbal descriptions which implied that a prod- since they contrast with a larger literature suggesting assimilation
uct (pomegranate juice) was very pleasant (e.g. the statement that is the normal response to disconfirmed expectancies with food,
the product scored 8.1 on a 9 point liking scale) or very unpleasant discussed earlier. One reason for this may be that most previous
M.R. Yeomans et al. / Food Quality and Preference 19 (2008) 565–573 567

studies have concentrated on subtle differences in quality between 2.1.3. Participants


the expected and actual properties of foods, conditions which The participants were an untrained panel of 32 assessors (24
would favour assimilation, whereas Zellner et al. (2001) explicitly women and 8 men) selected from staff and students at the Univer-
explored conditions where expectations could be disconfirmed. sity of Sussex who had previously shown an interest in studies
Thus in hedonic evaluations, both assimilation and contrast are relating to ingestion. Potential volunteers were contacted through
possible outcomes of prior expectations, depending on the email, and were informed that the study simply involved evalua-
strength, plausibility and nature of the expectations. tion of a novel ice-cream. Volunteers who had diabetes, had any
The affect expectation model can be applied usefully to under- known or suspected food allergy or had a prior diagnosis of an eat-
standing of expectations of liking, but since it is grounded in affect, ing disorder were excluded, and the study was described as unsuit-
it is less directly applicable to evaluations of sensory rather than able for vegetarians. The participants were the first 32 respondents
affective quality. Notably, Zellner et al. (2001) only measured hedo- who met the study criteria. Participants were assigned at random
nic evaluations, and the effect of large disconfirmed expectancies to either an informed ICE-CREAM or informed SAVOURY group,
on sensory rather than hedonic evaluations remains under-studied. while ensuring the same gender ratio (there were 16 participants,
In one early study, participants rated sucrose or quinine solutions 12 women and 4 men, in each condition). The two groups did not
which were either labelled correctly or incorrectly (Carlsmith, & differ significantly in age.
Aronson, 1963). Disconfirmed expectancies resulted in contrast ef-
fects: quinine was rated as more bitter when labelled as sucrose,
and vice versa. However, the authors interpreted these changes in 2.1.4. Test food
sweet and bitter dimensions as a reflection of hedonic changes. Re- The food used in the test was a novel smoked-salmon ice-
cent work, however, suggests that sweet and bitter ratings are dis- cream, based on an original idea by Heston Blumenthal and then
sociable from hedonic evaluations (e.g., Yeomans, Mobini, Elliman, developed further by Firmenich SA in Geneva. The ice-cream was
Walker, & Stevenson, 2006), which implies that the outcome of the unusual in that it was not sweet; it contained the following
study by Carlsmith and Aronson (1963) may reflect actual sensory ingredients:
rather than hedonic changes. Other studies report assimilation of
labelled sensory quality into actual product evaluations (e.g., Capo-  565 ml: full fat UHT milk obtained from a local supermarket.
rale, Policastro, Carlucci, & Monteleone, 2006; e.g., Cardello, & Saw-  200 ml: UHT cream with a 35% fat content obtained from a local
yer, 1992; Tuorila et al., 1994), but in the context of foods which had supermarket.
qualities which were similar to expectations, and so may promote  235 g: maltodextrin with a dextrose equivalent of 10 (Star-Dri
assimilation since the difference between expected and actual qual- 10Ò from Tate & Lyle plc).
ities may not have been noticeable. Thus there is a need for further  230 g: scottish smoked salmon obtained from a local
studies exploring the role of expectation in sensory and hedonic supermarket.
evaluations of foods where expectations are disconfirmed, and this  8 g: sodium chloride.
difference is apparent to the consumer, and that was the aim of the  3 g: MSG (monosodium glutamate from Ajinomoto plc).
experiments reported here.
The aim of the three experiments described in this report was to The cream, milk, maltodextrin, salt and MSG were thoroughly
explore the importance of congruency between the expected fla- mixed to be free of any lumps and passed through a kitchen sieve.
vour (generated by a combination of a simple food label and visual 900 ml of this mix were placed in the stainless steel beaker from a
appearance) and actual sensory experience of a highly novel food Pacojet Machine (Pacojet AG, Bundesstraße 7, CH-6300 Zug/Swit-
which had the capacity to generate extreme differences between zerland). A small aluminium bottle (5 cm diameter) was filled with
expectations and actual sensory qualities. To achieve this, we gen- table salt and capped. This was placed in the centre of the Pacojet
erated a highly novel food (smoked salmon ice-cream) whose vi- beaker and was tall enough to protrude above the level of the li-
sual appearance could be interpreted either as a fruit ice-cream quid. The whole was covered and placed in a deep freezer over-
or savoury mousse. Critically, we wanted to determine the extent night. The next day the salt was poured out of the aluminium
to which hedonic and sensory evaluation of the food was influ- bottle and replaced with warm water; this allowed the bottle to
enced by the congruence between the expected and actual flavour. be easily removed from the frozen mix leaving a central vertical
Where the label predicted the actual sensory experience (i.e., a la- hole from top to bottom. This hole was packed with the smoked
bel of ‘‘frozen savoury mousse”), we predicted that the food would salmon and the whole container was stored in the deep freezer un-
be perceived as acceptable. However, where the expectation gener- til needed.
ated by the label predicted a sweet food (i.e. when the food was la- The Pacojet machine is designed to forcibly grind and churn a
belled as ‘‘ice-cream”), we predicted that liking would be portion of a frozen mass into a finely divided purée. In this case
significantly reduced when the actual food was experienced. More- it thoroughly mixes the frozen cream mix with the salmon to a
over the experience of unexpected sensory qualities (a savoury, homogeneous and smooth consistency; in this process ice crys-
salty fish flavour) might lead to over-estimation of the key sensory tals are reduced to a size that is compatible with a smooth
attributes of the salmon ice-cream due to the strong contrast be- creamy ice-cream. The overall colour was pink/peach with no
tween expected and perceived flavour. visible sign of salmon pieces. For the sensory tasting sessions,
a single scoop of ice-cream (c. 30 g) was served in a small plastic
tray.
2. Experiment 1

2.1. Method 2.1.5. Procedure


Participants attended for a single tasting session, which was
2.1.2. Design conducted between 1445 and 1600 h in small, air-conditioned
The study used a between-subjects design to contrast hedonic windowless cubicles in the Ingestive Behaviour Unit at Sussex
and sensory evaluations of a novel food (smoked-salmon ice- University, having been instructed to refrain from eating and to
cream) depending on whether this was presented to assessors as drink only water for the two hours prior to testing. All data were
‘‘ice-cream” or ‘‘frozen savoury mousse”. collected using Sussex Ingestion Pattern Monitor software (see
568 M.R. Yeomans et al. / Food Quality and Preference 19 (2008) 565–573

Yeomans, 2000) run on Apple G3 computers. Initially participants 2.1.6. Data analysis
completed a series of computerised mood and appetite ratings in Initial analyses were aimed at confirming that the between-
the form ‘‘How hwordi do you feel?”, where the adjectives rated groups contrast of hedonic evaluation of the ice-cream was not
were: clear-headed, drowsy, thirsty, lively, calm, full, nervous, re- invalidated by spurious differences in appetite and mood at the
laxed, hunger and nauseous. Ratings were made by positioning a time of testing. Thus each mood and appetite rating was contrasted
bar at the point of a horizontal line 500 pixels long which best re- between the ‘‘ice-cream” and ‘‘savoury mousse” conditions using
flected how participants currently felt, and ratings were scored ANOVA, with gender of assessor as a controlled factor. The same
automatically on a scale from 0 (not at all) to 500 (extremely). analysis was then used to assess the rated characteristics of the
The polarity of the scale varied at random, as did the order in ice-cream between the two groups.
which ratings were made, and the adjective describing the dimen-
sion to be rated was positioned centrally above the rating scale. 2.2. Results
The appetite and key mood ratings (anxious, nauseous and ner-
vous) were used to test for spurious group differences which might Assessors who were pre-informed that the food was a frozen
have confounded any differences in hedonic evaluations of the ice- savoury mousse (condition SAVOURY) rated the flavour of the
cream, and the remaining mood evaluations were included both to smoked salmon ice-cream as significantly more pleasant than
ensure familiarity with the computerised ratings, and to disguise did those who experienced the same food simply labelled as
the purpose of the study. After completion of the final mood rating, ice-cream (F(1, 28) = 11.34, p < 0.005), with the latter condition
the computer signalled the participant to call the experimenter, finding the flavour extremely aversive, compared to a mild dis-
who immediately served the ice-cream portion, along with fresh like in the savoury condition (Fig. 1a). Thus expectancy generated
mineral water for participants to use to cleanse their mouth after by the physical appearance of the food combined with a simple
tasting. The key manipulation in the study was the description of written descriptor had a large effect on rated flavour pleasant-
the ice-cream on-screen at the time of evaluation. In the ICE- ness. In addition, ratings of saltiness were significantly greater
CREAM condition, the food was labelled as ‘‘ice-cream”, but in in the ICE-CREAM than SAVOURY condition (F(1, 28) = 5.96,
the SAVOURY condition the description given to participants was p < 0.05: Fig. 1b), and the ICE-CREAM condition also perceived
‘‘frozen savoury mousse”. Evaluations of the ice-cream were all the flavour as stronger overall (F(1, 28) = 7.63, p < 0.01: Fig. 1c).
made using the same style of ratings as with the mood and appe- Ratings of bitterness were variable, but again assessors in the
tite scales. Participants made one hedonic rating (‘‘How pleasant ICE-CREAM condition tended to rate the flavour as more bitter
is the taste?”), a rating of flavour strength (strong) and seven than did those in the SAVOURY condition (F(1, 28) = 3.32,
flavour descriptors (fruity, savoury, sour, creamy, salty, bitter and p = 0.079: Fig. 1d). None of the other sensory ratings differed be-
sweet). As with the mood/appetite ratings, the order in which tween conditions.
evaluations were made was randomised. Once these ratings had Evaluation of baseline ratings (Table 1) confirmed no spurious
been completed, the participant was debriefed, and rewarded differences in appetite (hunger, fullness or thirst) or mood (anxi-
either with a small payment or course credits for research ety, nervous and nausea) that could account for differences in eval-
participation. uation of ice-cream flavour, and no analysis found any differences

Fig. 1. Rated pleasantness (A), saltiness (B), strength of flavour (C) and bitterness (D) of smoked salmon ice-cream depending on whether this was labelled as frozen savoury
mousse or ice-cream. Data are mean ± SEM.
M.R. Yeomans et al. / Food Quality and Preference 19 (2008) 565–573 569

Table 1 dition. However, one participant failed to attend their test session,
Baseline ratings of appetite and mood prior to flavour evaluation in Experiment 1 and the final composition of the three panels (Table 2) had 15 par-
Attribute rated ICE-CREAM condition SAVOURY condition ticipants in the SAVOURY and CONTROL conditions, but 14 in the
Full 239.1 ± 18.9 231.7 ± 27.1 ICE-CREAM condition.
Hunger 192.4 ± 25.9 203.5 ± 30.7
Thirst 242.5 ± 26.9 234.3 ± 26.5
3.1.3. Procedure and test food
Nauseous 65.7 ± 27.6 65.5 ± 24.5
Nervous 157.2. ± 28.3 152.9 ± 29.4 The same test food was used as in Experiment 1, and the proce-
dure was identical with the sole exception that the on-screen
descriptor of the food to be assessed in the CONTROL condition
between female and male assessors either in baseline mood and was ‘‘Food 386”.
appetite or in assessment of the ice-cream.
3.1.4. Data analysis
2.3. Conclusion Each rating was contrasted between the three conditions using
one-way ANOVA, with gender of assessor as a controlled factor.
These data suggest that the sensory qualities implied by a sim- Where significant effects of condition were found, post-hoc con-
ple food label affected the perceived pleasantness of flavour of a trasts were used to confirm which differences between the three
novel, and also modified actual perception of flavour components. conditions were significant, with significance adjusted for multi-
More importantly, these data imply that inaccurate expectations ple-contrasts using the Bonferroni adjustment.
about food flavour can lead to strongly aversive responses when
the food was tasted, in line with a limited existing literature also 3.2. Results
showing hedonic contrast effects with food stimuli (Cardello, &
Sawyer, 1992; Zellner et al., 2001). These data thus consistent with Analysis of pleasantness ratings found an overall effect of con-
the idea that flavour perception is an integration of sensory infor- dition [F(2, 41) = 5.04, p < 0.05]. Inspection of the pleasantness
mation with past memory of similar stimuli predicted by the visual data, however, revealed that one participant was a significant out-
qualities, and accompanying written descriptor, of the rated food. lier (data more than 2SD from the group mean) in the ICE-CREAM
However, two methodological issues limit interpretation of Exper- condition. This participant gave a pleasantness rating of 475 to the
iment 1. Firstly, the recruitment strategy identified the study as an smoked salmon ice-cream labelled as ice-cream, compared to a
‘‘ice-cream” tasting study during the recruitment of participants. group mean of 40.1 ± 36.4. Notably, this participant, who was
Consequently, the specific information that the product was a ‘‘fro- Spanish, commented that he had experience of savoury ice-cream,
zen savoury mousse” may have had less impact than if participants which he liked. Exclusion of these data increased the significance
had not had the initial expectation of ice-cream. Secondly, while of the effect of condition on pleasantness [F(2, 40) = 9.68,
Experiment 1 established large differences in evaluation of the p < 0.001]. Protected contrasts revealed that ratings in the ice-
smoked salmon ice-cream depending on the associated label, it is cream condition were significantly less than in the other two con-
impossible to determine whether this resulted from the negative ditions, but ratings in the control and savoury condition did not
impact of incongruous ice-cream label, or a positive effect of con- differ significantly (Fig. 2a).
gruous frozen savoury mousse label. Experiment 2 was designed The effects of labelling on sensory evaluation seen in Experi-
to counter these limitations. ment 1 were partly replicated. Saltiness also varied with condition
[F(2, 40) = 5.08, p < 0.05], and as in Experiment 1 rated saltiness
3. Experiment 2 was higher in the ice-cream than savoury condition (Fig. 2b), but
savoury and control conditions did not differ significantly. As in
3.1. Method Experiment 1, perceived flavour strength varied with condition
[F(2, 40) = 5.69, p < 0.001], with higher ratings in the ICE-CREAM
3.1.1. Design than savoury or control conditions (Fig. 2c). There was also a trend
A between-subjects design was again used to contrast hedonic for higher savoury ratings in the ice-cream condition, but this did
and sensory evaluations of a novel food (smoked salmon ice- not reach overall significance [F(2, 40) = 1.94, NS]. Although the
cream) with the same two conditions (‘‘ice-cream” or ‘‘frozen mean ratings for bitterness in Experiment 2 were in the same
savoury mousse”) as in Experiment 1, and a third control condition direction as Experiment, with higher bitterness ratings in the ice-
which provided no descriptive information (‘‘Food 386”). cream than savoury condition, the overall effect of condition was
not significant [F(2, 40) = 0.88, NS].
3.1.2. Participants No significant effects of condition were found on creaminess,
The participants were 44 untrained assessors. The recruitment fruitiness, sourness or sweetness evaluations, although in many
was the same as in Experiment 1 except that the description of ratings there were trends for ratings in the ice-cream condition
the study in all communications prior to testing, and in the infor- standing out as different to the other conditions (tending to be
mation sheet for participants, described the study as ‘‘assessing a more sour, less sweet, etc.).
novel food”. Participants were assigned at random to the three con-
ditions, with the original aim of using 15 participants in each con- 3.3. Conclusion

Table 2 Experiment 2 suggests that it was the lack of congruity between


Characteristics of the participants in Experiment 2 the label ‘‘ice-cream” and the experienced sensory quality of the
smoked salmon ice-cream that resulted in the strong aversive re-
Condition
sponse in the ICE-CREAM condition in both Experiment 1 and 2
Control Ice-cream Savoury
since reactions in the conditions where the label was informative
Age 21.3 ± 1.0 21.4 ± 0.7 21.1 ± 0.5 and accurate (‘‘frozen savoury mousse”) and uninformative (CON-
BMI 22.7 ± 0.6 22.1 ± 0.6 22.6 ± 0.5
TROL condition labelled ‘‘Food 386”) were very similar. The differ-
Gender (F/M) 12/3 11/3 11/4
ences in hedonic evaluation between the ICE-CREAM and
570 M.R. Yeomans et al. / Food Quality and Preference 19 (2008) 565–573

Fig. 2. Rated pleasantness (A), saltiness (B) and strength of flavour (C) of smoked salmon ice-cream depending on whether this was labelled as ice-cream, frozen savoury
mousse or a neutral food (Control). Data are mean ± SEM.

SAVOURY conditions in Experiments 1 and 2 were very similar, this phase. After completion of the final rating of expected flavour,
with the food rated as having a stronger and more salty flavour an additional rating was made based on how confident participants
in the ice-cream label condition, although the hedonic differences were about their evaluation of the food by label and appearance.
were much greater than sensory differences. The question was phrased ‘‘How confident are you that you have
The similarity in assessment of the salmon ice-cream in the accurately described the flavour of this food?”, rated form not at
SAVOURY and CONTROL conditions was surprising since the all (0) to totally (500). Once completed, the food was placed in
appearance of the food might have been predicted to generate front of the participants to allow them to consume a small portion
expectations of a sweet ice-cream. However, a shortcoming in and make a second set of evaluations, using the same procedure as
Experiments 1 and 2 was that differences in expectation between in Experiments 1 and 2.
conditions were implied but not tested explicitly. Previous re-
search has assessed the role of expectation by obtaining separate 4.1.4. Data analysis
ratings based on appearance alone prior to sensory testing (e.g., The expected and actual evaluations of the ice-cream were con-
Cardello, & Sawyer, 1992). The same approach was discounted here trasted using ANOVA, with label between-subjects factor and type
because of concerns that the inspection of the food during the eval- of evaluation (expected or actual) within-subjects. Gender of asses-
uation of the appearance may have led to participants detecting sor was again included as a controlled factor. Where significant ef-
the faint odour of fish from the ice-cream, so compromising the la- fects of condition were found, post-hoc contrasts were used to
bel manipulation. However, to test whether the manipulations confirm which differences between the three conditions were sig-
used in the present study did generate the inferred expectations, nificant, with significance adjusted for multiple-contrasts using the
a final study examined contrasted the effects of the label manipu- Bonferroni adjustment.
lations on evaluations of both the expected and actual sensory and
hedonic evaluations of the ice-cream in the three conditions used 5. Results
in Experiment 2.
5.1. Expected flavour evaluations
4. Experiment 3
Average sensory and hedonic evaluations of the expected fla-
4.1. Method vour of the salmon ice-cream in the three conditions are summa-
rised in Table 3. These data confirm that the label applied to the
4.1.1. Design
A between-subjects design was used to contrast anticipatory Table 3
and actual hedonic and sensory evaluations of the same novel food Expected sensory and hedonic evaluations of the salmon ice-cream in the three label
(smoked salmon ice-cream) in the three label conditions used in conditions in Experiment 3
Experiment 2 (ICE-CREAM, SAVOURY and CONTROL). Evaluation Label condition Main effect of
condition1
Ice-cream Savoury Food 386
4.1.2. Participants mousse
The participants were 60 untrained assessors, 48 women and 12
Pleasant 375a ± 13 241b ± 23 258b ± 18 p < 0.001
men. The recruitment was the same as that in Experiment 2, and
Savoury 50a ± 8 482c ± 5 121b ± 19 p < 0.001
participants were assigned at random to the three conditions, with Salty 31a ± 6 323b ± 30 69a ± 17 p < 0.001
20 participants in each condition. Sweet 340a ± 28 89c ± 13 275 b ± 19 p < 0.001
Creamy 389a ± 13 314 b ± 18 320b ± 16 p < 0.01
Fruity 322a ± 15 76c ± 13 225b ± 26 p < 0.001
4.1.3. Procedure and test food
Bitter 87 ± 17 104 ± 17 118 ± 20 NS
The same test food was used as in Experiments 1 and 2. How- Sour 56 ± 13 62 ± 11 47 ± 9 NS
ever, in this case when the food was first presented, participants Strong 256a ± 15 387b ± 11 300a ± 20 p < 0.001
firstly made the same set of evaluations as in the previous studies Confidence 329a ± 17 284a ± 19 146b ± 25 p < 0.001
but based purely on the appearance of the food. The food was Data are mean ± SEM, n = 20 in each group
placed towards the back of the test table and participants were in- 1
Value is significance for main effect of condition from one-way ANOVA. Means
structed to base their evaluations on the appearance alone during with different superscripts differ significantly (bonferroni contrast).
M.R. Yeomans et al. / Food Quality and Preference 19 (2008) 565–573 571

food had a large impact on expected sensory and hedonic quality. Table 4
The expected flavour was rated to be significantly more pleasant, Sensory and hedonic evaluations of the salmon ice-cream in the three label conditions
in Experiment 3
sweet, fruity and creamy, and significantly less savoury and salty,
in the ICE-CREAM than SAVOURY condition. Expected ratings in Evaluation Label condition Main effect of
the CONTROL condition, where no informative label was given, condition1
Ice-cream Savoury Food 386
were less consistent: ratings for pleasant and creamy were similar mousse
in CONTROL and SAVOURY conditions, but ratings of salty and Pleasant 21a ± 8 145b ± 24 140b ± 29 p < 0.001
strong were similar in CONTROL and ICE-CREAM conditions. On Savoury 434 ± 9 407 ± 16 393 ± 11 NS
three ratings, sweet, fruity and savoury, the ratings in the CON- Salty 412a ± 11 361b ± 16 388ab ± 11 p < 0.05
Sweet 28a ± 9 86b ± 19 83b ± 20 p < 0.05
TROL condition fell between those in the other conditions, suggest-
Creamy 363 ± 11 355 ± 9 351 ± 13 NS
ing that the absence of an informative label made the food Fruity 16 ± 5 32 ± 13 24 ± 8 NS
ambiguous. This was further reflected in the confidence ratings Bitter 135 ± 23 84 ± 13 121 ± 20 NS
for the expected flavour, where confidence ratings were signifi- Sour 171 ± 23 113 ± 15 121 ± 24 NS
Strong 439 ± 11 410 ± 13 405 ± 12 NS
cantly lower in the CONTROL than ICE-CREAM or SAVOURY condi-
tions (Table 3). Data are mean ± SEM, n = 20 in each group.
1
Value is significance for main effect of condition from one-way ANOVA. Means
5.2. Actual flavour evaluations with different superscripts differ significantly (bonferroni contrast).

The evaluations of the flavour in the three conditions were very


similar to those in Experiment 2 (Table 4). As before, flavour pleas- ings in the CONTROL condition also suggested participants had
antness was significantly affected by food label [F(2, 56) = 10.65, some expectation of a sweet, fruity taste, although less so than in
p < 0.001], with significantly lower ratings in the ICE-CREAM than the ICE-CREAM condition, but this did not result in such a large
CONTROL and SAVOURY conditions. Actual sensory evaluations reduction in pleasantness on tasting the food. A similar, but smal-
were much less affected by label, although both ratings of sweet ler, effect of labelling was seen with sweetness ratings (Fig. 3b),
[F(2, 56) = 4.16, p < 0.05] and salty [F(2, 56) = 4.21, p < 0.05] did differ where again the interaction between rating type (expected or ac-
between conditions, with the test food rated as less sweet and more tual) and condition was significant [F(2, 54 = 18.46, p < 0.001].
salty in the ICE-CREAM than CONTROL or SAVOURY conditions. Here, although expected sweetness was markedly different be-
tween SAVOURY and CONTROL conditions, actual ratings were
5.3. Relationship between expected and actual flavour very similar. In contrast, the expected sweetness was very high
in the ICE-CREAM condition, but actual ratings were significantly
To test whether expectations were assimilated into flavour lower than in the other conditions.
evaluations, expected and actual flavours were contrasted by 2-
way ANOVA, with condition and rating type (expected or actual 6. Discussion
flavour) as factors. For pleasantness, there was a significant inter-
action between condition and rating type [F(2, 54) = 18.46, Rated pleasantness of the flavour of a novel savoury ice-cream
p < 0.001], and these data are shown in Fig. 3a. In all cases actual was highly dependent on the label presented when the food was
pleasantness was lower than expected, but where the label ICE- served. The label ‘‘ice-cream” reliably resulted in lower pleasant-
CREAM was used, expected pleasantness was the largest, but actual ness ratings than did the label ‘‘frozen savoury mousse” (Experi-
pleasantness extremely low. Thus rather than assimilation, the lack ments 1 and 2). However, when a neutral control label was
of congruence between the expected and actual flavour generated included (Experiment 2), responses to the savoury and control
an aversive response. This was not seen where the flavour was pre- conditions were very similar. These effects were seen both with
dicted by the label ‘‘frozen savour mousse”. Expected flavour rat- hedonic and sensory changes, with consistent finding of higher rat-

Fig. 3. Expected and actual pleasantness (A) and sweetness (B) of smoked salmon ice-cream depending on whether this was labelled as ice-cream, frozen savoury mousse or a
neutral food (Control). Data are mean ± SEM.
572 M.R. Yeomans et al. / Food Quality and Preference 19 (2008) 565–573

ings of flavour strength and saltiness for the food when labelled as SAVOURY condition), or where information gave no expectation
‘‘ice-cream”.The implication is that the ‘‘ice-cream” label generated (the uninformative CONTROL food label). These data are important,
a strong expectation of a sweet, fruity flavour, and the surprise of a as they provide a rare example of contrast effects in sensory eval-
strong, salty fish-flavoured food resulted in very low pleasantness uation generated by expectations about flavour in a food context.
ratings (many participants verbally described the food as disgust- Although interpreted at the time as evidence of hedonic change,
ing). Experiment 3 explicitly measured expected and actual evalu- data in the study by Carlsmith and Aronson (1963) also show con-
ations, and confirmed the interpretation of Experiments 1 and 2 trast effects, with sweet solutions rated as less sweet when bitter-
that the ‘‘ice-cream” label did generate an expectation of a sweet, ness was predicted and vice versa. Contrast effects are more readily
fruity flavour, which then contrasted strongly with the actual seen in perceptual studies where evaluation of a context stimulus
experience of salty fish. of higher or lower intensity alters evaluation of subsequent target
Although past research has shown that expectations generated stimuli (e.g., Conner, Land, & Booth, 1987; Riskey, Parducci, & Beau-
by food labels can modify liking for food flavours, the majority of champ, 1979; see Schifferstein, 2001 for review), but no such con-
these studies have found assimilation of the expected and actual text stimuli preceded evaluation of the test stimulus in the present
experience (Cardello, Maller, Masor, Dubose, & Edelman, 1985; study, suggesting that adaptation or range-frequency effects (Par-
Cardello, & Sawyer, 1992; Wansink et al., 2005). However the pres- ducci, 1965) cannot explain the current findings of exaggerated
ent study demonstrates that where the expected and actual sen- sensory experience. Thus the present data suggest that disconfir-
sory experience are very different (i.e., the contrast of an mation about sensory expectation can lead to increased intensity
expectation for sweet and fruity relative to actual salty fish), the of the unexpected sensory quality, suggesting some top-down con-
disconfirmed expectation leads to a strong contrast effect, and con- trol influence on sensory experience in this context.
sequent dislike and rejection of the test food, adding to the very The current studies also suggest that beliefs about the nature of a
few studies reporting contrast effects with food stimuli (e.g., Car- food generated by the preceding food label were more powerful
dello, & Sawyer, 1992; Zellner et al., 2001). Thus where the differ- than were the visual cues alone. Thus the differences in sensory
ence between expectation and actual sensory quality was very and hedonic evaluation of the salmon ice-cream between the three
large, the experience was highly unpleasant even for a food that test conditions all involved the same visual cues, yet responses to
could be perceived as pleasant on its own (the pleasantness ratings visual cues alone (the CONTROL condition where the food label
for the salmon ice-cream in the conditions other than ‘‘ice-cream” was uninformative in Experiments 2 and 3) and visual cues with
were close to neutral, 250 on the hedonic scale used here). Thus an accurate food label (the SAVOURY condition) were the same.
where expectations were disconfirmed and the actual sensory Only where the food label was congruent with the visual cues but
experience was highly novel and surprising, the reaction was one misleading about the actual sensory quality (the ICE-CREAM condi-
of extreme dislike. Although these conditions would rarely be tion) did differences in sensory and hedonic evaluation emerge.
experienced by a consumer in real-life, the extent to which expec- A limitation of the first two experiments in the current study
tations influenced liking in the present context demonstrate the was that no actual evaluation of the expected pleasantness or fla-
potential for expectations to moderate hedonic evaluation where vour quality of the food was made before the food was consumed.
there is a clear mis-match between expected and perceived sen- Although explicit data regarding anticipated flavour would have
sory quality. It was also notable that positive expectations about some value here, we were concerned that asking participants to
the novel food generated by the label ‘‘frozen savoury mousse” evaluate their expectations prior to tasting may have led to them
did not lead to assimilation of the expected flavour since no differ- detect the aroma of fish, and so compromised the lack of congruity
ences emerged between the congruent and neutral food label con- between the label and sensory qualities. Experiment 3, however,
ditions in Experiment 3. A possible explanation for this might be did measure expected and actual ratings and the similarity in sen-
that the expectations generated by the congruent label were not sory evaluations for the actual flavour of the ice-cream in Experi-
sufficiently strong to facilitate assimilation when the actual food ments 2 and 3 suggest that completion of expected ratings did
was tasted, perhaps driven by the unique novelty of the food not impact adversely on subsequent hedonic and sensory evalua-
tested. This conclusion is supported in part by the finding that con- tions. The inclusion of expected and actual ratings in Experiment
fidence ratings in the SAVOURY condition were less than in ICE- 3 did demonstrate the extent of the difference between expected
CREAM, but notably both were greater than in the CONTROL con- and actual pleasantness.
dition. However, the large difference in confidence in ratings be- In summary, these three experiments provide striking evidence
tween SAVOURY and CONTROL conditions might have been that expectations play a major role in generating hedonic re-
expected to promote assimilation in the SAVOURY condition. An- sponses to food stimuli, such that the same food was rated as
other possible explanation for the lack of assimilation in the acceptable when the flavour was expected but close to disgusting
SAVOURY condition was that the description of the study as eval- when the expected and actual flavour were very different. These
uation of a novel food generated an expectation of novelty, which data thus add to a small set of studies showing hedonic and sen-
alerted reduced the surprise when salmon ice-cream was tasted in sory contrast effects in flavour perception.
the CONTROL condition without giving any confidence of what
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