In The Name of Allah The Most Gracious & The Most Merciful

In the Name of Allah
The Most Gracious & the Most Merciful
1
Analysis of Different Production Systems in Apparel
Industry
Project Advisor
Engr. Saeed Akhtar
A Thesis submitted by
Fahad Arshad (BET-FA13-015)
Fahad Farooq (BET-FA13-016)
M Awais Abdullah (BET-FA13-017)
Ahmad Faraz (BET-FA13-005)
Danial Munawar (BET-FA13-003)
Bachelor of Engineering in Textile
(Garments Manufacturing)
2013-2017
THE UNIVERSITY OF FAISALABAD
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Dedication
This modest effort is dedicated to our
Parents
&
Teachers
3
Certificate
The University Of Faisalabad, Faisalabad
This thesis, written by Mr. Muhammad Awais Abdullah, Mr. Ahmad Faraz, Mr. Danyal
Munawar, Mr. Muhammad Fahad Farooq and Mr. Fahad Arshad under the direction of their
supervisors and approved by all the members of the thesis committee, has been presented to and
accepted by the HOD, School of Textile Engineering, in fulfillment of the requirement of the
degree of Bachelor of Engineering in Textile.
Supervisor Coordinator
HOD
Date:
4
Acknowledgement
We always pray to Almighty Allah for His blessings and guidance, and my deepest gratitude are
to Him for opening new horizons in our pursuit for knowledge. Undertaking project appeared to
be difficult in the start but with Allah’s benevolence this apparently difficult task became easy
step by step and finally I have been able to formulate this study project.
Special thanks to the Holy Prophet (P.B.U.H), the beacon of knowledge who enlightened the
soul of mankind with the spirit of Islam and directed to acquire knowledge wherever it.
This thesis has been completed by the support of many people whom I wish to acknowledge
here.
During the work on this thesis, we have benefited from a lot of communication with many
people, who have provided valuable input to our studies. They have all helped us with their
insights and advice. First of all, we would like to express our appreciation and gratitude towards
our Head of Department Mr. Asghar Siddiqui and our advisor Engr. Saeed Akhtar for his support
and guidance that has helped us to reach our goal – the completion of our Project Work.
We are thankful to Engr. Haroon Ijaz, Engr. Umar Abdullah and Engr. Attiq Ur Rehman for their
continuous support during the project. Their engagement and knowledge have inspired us a lot.
The experimental work for this study was carried out in Masood Textile Mills (Ltd). For this
purpose, We are thankful to Mr. Irfan (HOD of I.E), Mr. Arif Farzand (Assistant Manager I.E),
Mr. Asjidullah (Merchandiser), Mr. Hassan Amjad (Assistant manager IE) and Mr. Haris
(Assistant Manager IE), for their help in providing valuable information and facilitating the data
collection process in the factory.
We also acknowledge all the industrial partners that participated in this work. They have
provided us the best possible environment, support, and encouragement to complete our project.
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Contents
Chapter 1 ....................................................................................................................................... 20
Introduction ................................................................................................................................... 20
1.1 Garments Manufacturing: .............................................................................................. 20
1.2 History of Ready-Made Garments: ................................................................................ 20
1.3 Mass Production & Sizing: ................................................................................................. 23
1.5 Background of the Study: ................................................................................................... 24
1.6 Conceptual Model of Production Systems:......................................................................... 25
Chapter 2 ....................................................................................................................................... 26
Literature Review.......................................................................................................................... 26
2.1 Global Competition in the Garment Manufacturing: .......................................................... 26
2.2 Technology Adoption: ........................................................................................................ 26
2.3 Line Layout: ........................................................................................................................ 27
2.4 Types of Line Layout: ......................................................................................................... 27
2.4.1 Line with center table and operators facing same direction: ....................................... 27
2.4.2 Line with center table and operators facing opposite direction: .................................. 28
2.4.3 Straight line without center table and one raw of machines: ....................................... 28
2.4.3.1 Overhead material movement: .............................................................................. 28
2.4.3.2 Trolley for material transportation: ....................................................................... 29
2.4.3.3 Line having individual disposal basket: ................................................................ 29
2.4.4 Side by side machine layout: ....................................................................................... 29
2.4.5 U-shaped line layout: ................................................................................................... 30
2.4.6 Modular line layout: ..................................................................................................... 30
2.4.7 Machine layout in UPS system: ................................................................................... 31
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2.5 Production Systems:............................................................................................................ 31
2.5.1 Make Through System: ................................................................................................ 31
2.5.2 Progressive Bundle System: ........................................................................................ 32
2.5.3 Modular Production System: ....................................................................................... 32
2.5.4 Overhead Production System (UPS):........................................................................... 33
2.5.5 Section Production System: ......................................................................................... 34
2.6 Disadvantages of the Traditional Methods: ........................................................................ 34
2.7Underutilization of Latest Technology: ............................................................................... 35
2.8Use of Traditional Methods and Machinery: ....................................................................... 36
2.9 Need for Lean Manufacturing:............................................................................................ 36
2.10 Main Objectives of the Study: .......................................................................................... 37
Chapter 3 ....................................................................................................................................... 38
Differential Analysis ..................................................................................................................... 38
3.1 Apparel Export: ................................................................................................................... 38
3.2 Apparel Industry Structure:................................................................................................. 38
3.3 Gender Split in Employment: ............................................................................................. 39
3.4 Competitiveness of Apparel Manufacturing in Pakistan: ................................................... 40
3.5 Wages and Salaries in Apparel Industry in Pakistan: ......................................................... 40
3.6 Comparative Wages and Productivity: ............................................................................... 40
3.7 Working Conditions in Apparel Industry: .......................................................................... 41
3.8 SCM in Pakistan: ................................................................................................................ 41
3.9 Issues at different Production Systems: .............................................................................. 43
3.9.1 Bundle Production System:.......................................................................................... 43
3.9.2 ETON System: ............................................................................................................. 43
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3.9.3 Hanger System: ............................................................................................................ 44
3.10 Comparative Study of different Production Systems: ...................................................... 44
3.10.1 ETON System: ........................................................................................................... 44
3.10.2 Bundle System: .......................................................................................................... 45
3.10.3 Hanger and Trolley System: ...................................................................................... 45
3.11 Differential Analysis of BPS and ETON system: ............................................................. 47
3.12 Advantages and Disadvantages of BPS and UPS: ............................................................ 50
3.12.1 Bundle Production System:........................................................................................ 50
3.12.1.1 Advantages:............................................................................................................. 50
3.12.1.2 Disadvantages: .................................................................................................... 50
3.12.2 Unit Production System: ............................................................................................ 51
3.12.2.1 Advantages:......................................................................................................... 51
3.12.2.2 Disadvantages: .................................................................................................... 52
3.13 Problems Identified at BPS: .............................................................................................. 52
3.13.1 High Work In Process (WIP) and Rework: ............................................................... 52
3.13.2 Extended waiting time: .............................................................................................. 52
3.13.3 Blockage of Floor Space: ........................................................................................... 53
3.13.4 High Percentage of Rejection: ................................................................................... 53
Chapter 4 ....................................................................................................................................... 55
Recommendations ......................................................................................................................... 55
4.1 Problem Solution Table: ..................................................................................................... 55
4.2 Production Strategies: ......................................................................................................... 59
4.2.1 Flexible Manufacturing Strategy: ................................................................................ 59
4.2.2 Value Added Manufacturing Strategy: ........................................................................ 59
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4.2.3 Agile Manufacturing Strategy: .................................................................................... 59
4.2.4 Mass Customization:.................................................................................................... 60
4.3 Recommendations for better production:............................................................................ 60
4.3.1 Maximum use of Natural Light: .................................................................................. 60
4.3.2 Improvements in Lightning Condition: ....................................................................... 61
4.3.3 Better Environment and Housekeeping: ...................................................................... 62
4.3.4 Performance measurement: .......................................................................................... 63
4.3.5 Displaying Educational Posters: .................................................................................. 63
4.3.6 Recommendations for Industrial Engineering: ............................................................ 65
4.3.6.1 Use of I.E Techniques: .......................................................................................... 65
4.3.6.2 Investment on Technology Department: ............................................................... 65
4.3.6.3 Efficient Layout Planning: .................................................................................... 66
4.3.6.4 Improvements in ergonomics:............................................................................... 66
4.3.6.5 Machine Safety: .................................................................................................... 68
4.3.6.6 Personal Protective Equipment: ............................................................................ 68
4.3.6.7 Lean Manufacturing Tools and Techniques: ........................................................ 69
4.3.6.8 Cellular Manufacturing: ........................................................................................ 71
4.3.6.9 Continuous Improvement: .................................................................................... 72
4.3.6.10 Method Study: ..................................................................................................... 76
4.3.6.11 Time Study: ......................................................................................................... 77
4.3.6.12 Layout Design: .................................................................................................... 78
4.3.6.13 Types of Layout: ................................................................................................. 78
4.3.6.14 Assembly Line Balancing: .................................................................................. 80
4.3.7 Recommendations for Training Programs: .................................................................. 80
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4.3.7.1 Executive Training: ............................................................................................... 80
4.3.7.2 Employee Training: .............................................................................................. 81
4.3.7.3 Objectives of training:........................................................................................... 81
4.3.8.1 Quality Management:............................................................................................ 82
4.3.8.2 Materials Handling in the Production Line:.......................................................... 83
4.3.8.3 Quality Control Workstation Designs:.................................................................. 83
4.3.8.4 Just in Time:.......................................................................................................... 84
4.3.8.5 Pull and Push System:........................................................................................... 85
4.3.8.6 Work Standardization: .......................................................................................... 85
4.3.8.7 Labor Standards and Work Measurements: .......................................................... 86
4.3.9 Recommendations For Material Management: ............................................................ 86
4.3.9.1 Inventory Control: ................................................................................................. 86
4.3.9.2 Proper Storage:...................................................................................................... 87
4.3.9.3 Maximum Utilization of Raw Material: ............................................................... 87
4.3.9.4 Fabric Storage: ...................................................................................................... 88
4.3.9.5 Proper Storage of Tools, Parts and Equipment: .................................................... 88
4.3.9.6 Rubbish/Waste Collection: ................................................................................... 89
4.3.9.7 Stock Control of the Garment Trims Store: .......................................................... 89
4.3.9.8 Store Organization: ............................................................................................... 90
4.3.9.9 Store Room Safety: Stack Height: ........................................................................ 91
4.3.10 Recommendations For Maintenance Management:................................................... 92
4.3.10.1 Machine Maintenance: ........................................................................................ 92
4.3.10.2 Total Productive Maintenance: ........................................................................... 92
4.4 Utilization of the Results of the Study: ............................................................................... 95
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Chapter 5 ....................................................................................................................................... 96
Bibliography ................................................................................................................................. 96
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List of Figures
Figure 1.1 Handmade Garments………………………………………………………………21
Figure 1.2 Earlier Power Loom………………………………………………………………..21
Figure 1.3 Fashion Illustrations………………………………………………………………..22
Figure 1.4 Departmental Store in 1908………………………………………………………...23
Figure 2.1 Straight Line………………………………………………………………………..27
Figure 2.2 Straight line operator facing opposite direction…………………………………….28
Figure 2.3 Straight line production with overhead transportation……………………………..28
Figure 2.4 Straight line layout with trolleys……………………………………………………29
Figure 2.5 Straight line layout with individual disposal basket………………………………..29
Figure 2.6 Side by Side machine layout………………………………………………………..30
Figure 2.7 U-shaped line layout………………………………………………………………...30
Figure 2.8 Line layout in UPS system………………………………………………………….31
Figure 2.9 Make Through System……………………………………………………………....32
Figure 2.10 Production Bundle System…………………………………………………………32
Figure 2.11 Modular Production System………………………………………………………..33
Figure 2.12 Overhead Production System………………………………………………………33
Figure 2.13 Section Production System…………………………………………………………34
Figure 3.1 High WIP………………………………………………………………………….....52
Figure 3.2 Extended waiting Time………………………………………………………………53
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Figure 3.3 Blockage of Floor Space……………………………………………………………..53
Figure 3.4 High Rejection Percentages………………………………………………………….54
Figure 4.1 Better Light Conditions……………………………………………………………...62
Figure 4.2 Educational Poster…………………………………………………………………...64
Figure 4.3 Bad Ergonomic………………………………………………………………………66
Figure 4.4 Good Ergonomic…………………………………………………………………….67
Figure 4.5 Pareto Diagram……………………………………………………………………....73
Figure 4.6 Cause & Effect Diagram…………………………………………………………….73
Figure 4.7 Check Sheet………………………………………………………………………….74
Figure 4.8 Histogram……………………………………………………………………………74
Figure 4.9 Stratification…………………………………………………………………………75
Figure 4.10 Scatter Diagram…………………………………………………………………….75
Figure 4.11 Process Control Chart………………………………………………………….......76
Figure 4.12 an arranged Training Program……………………………………………………...82
Figure 4.13 Stock Labeling……………………………………………………………………..90
Figure 4.14 Organized Store……………………………………………………………………91
Figure 4.15 Stack Height……………………………………………………………………….91
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List of Tables
Table 3.1 Comparison among different production systems……………………………….46
Table 3.2 Differential Analysis of BPS and ETON system………………………………..48

Table 4.1 Problem Solution Table………………………………………………………….55
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List of Equations
Eq. 4.1……………………………………………………………………………………………78
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List of Abbreviations
T&A = Textile and Apparel
U.S.A = United States of America
EU = Europe
OMS = Operations Management Systems
SHMI = Survey of House Hold And Manufacturing

Industry
n.d. = No Date
CMT = Cut, Manufacture and Trim
SOE = Standards of Engagement
MFA = Multi Fiber Agreement
NAFTA = North American Free Trade Area
WTO = World Trade Organization
I.E = Industrial Engineering
SAARC = South Asian Association for Regional

Corporation
PC = Polyester Cotton
GSP = Generalized System of Preferences
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PV = Polyester Viscose
ATC = Agreement on Textile and Clothing
ISO = International Organization for Standardization
MOST = Ministry Of Science and Technology
WIP = Work In Progress
STU = Satellite Training Unit
JIT = Just In Time
QR = Quick Response
SAM = Standard Allowed Minute
HRM = Human Resource Management
SCM = Supply Chain Management
ERP = Enterprise Resource Planning
MRP = Material Resource Planning
FIFO = First In First Out
TQM = Total Quality Management
GGT = Garment Gerber Technology
R&D = Research and Development
PPE = Personal Protective Equipment
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TPM = Total Productive Maintenance
PF% = Personal Fatigue
MD% = Machine Delay
BHT = Bundle Handling Time
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Abstract
This Project identifies globalization as an increasing integration of economies around the world,
through financial flows and associated mobility of labor and technology. The objective of this
study is to highlight the negative impact of globalization on the Textile and Apparel (T & A)
industry in Pakistan, while acknowledging positive impacts and provide strategic options to
survive the height of globalization.
The main purpose of this study is to identify, how many production systems do exist in the
garment manufacturing industry, and along with that, proposal of the comparatively better
production system. To achieve the result, different ways were followed. Literature review was
also discussed relevant to garment manufacturing. Through different surveys, it was tried to find
out the better production system in garment manufacturing industry. Also latest techniques were
identified to resolve the problems of the garment manufacturing industry.
Keywords: Garment manufacturing production system; existing problems, latest operations

management techniques.
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Chapter 1
Introduction
1.1Garments Manufacturing:
The process of garments or clothes manufacturing for consumers or end users, apparel
manufacturing workers perform different tasks including cutting and stitching textiles and other
types of materials. Most of them work in apparel manufacturing plants. These workers may
handle only one task in the production process, instead of performing all the work necessary to
create a piece of clothing. The clothing industry hires an array of workers specific to the
industry. These include pattern makers, fashion designers, sewing machine operators, cutters and
finish presses. (Beyond n.d.)
1.2History of Ready-Made Garments:
In Ancient Rome, garments production was in practice up to 100 workers to outfit the military.
Before 1300 CE (AD) people did not like to wear fitted garments. Women spun wool into thread
and weavers, generally men, wove fabric in home workshops. After 1350, clothing became more
form fitting. A small ready-to-wear industry soon began to produce shirt accessories such as
detachable sleeves and collars, as well as gloves, and hats. By the second half of the 16th century
gloves, stockings, collars, and hats were imported and exported in bulk quantities. (Cline 2012)
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Figure 1.1handmade garments.
In 1738 Lewis Paul and John Wyatt of England both invented the Roller Spinning machine
which spun cotton into thread. The Power Loom, was invented 1784 by Edmund Cartwright
wove threads into cloth on a machine. By 1880 there were 250,000 cotton power looms in
Britain. (Cline 2012)
Figure 1.2 Earlier Power Loom
In the 19th century many companies were still under the influence of handmade garments. In
1835, a New York company advertised for 800 tailors, and 1200 plain sewers. The origination of
steam powered machines for making textiles and clothing drew the anger of frightened
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craftspeople. In England and France angry tailors and weavers who saw the machinery as a threat
to their livelihood burnt the factories and destroyed the machinery. (Steele 2005)
By the 1880's mills and factories started producing cloth and garments including over coats,
petticoats, shirts, trousers, gloves, hats, and footwear. Ladies and kids worked 12 hours a day.
During busy seasons, work hours may extend up to 20 hours a day. In England, the court ordered
to enact early labor standards in 1833. The new child labor laws mandated an 8 hour work day
for 9 years old.(Cline 2012)
Figure 1.3 Fashion Illustrations
Invention of the sewing machine by Elias Howe in 1846, allowed workers to stitch garments
together quickly. In the late 19th century, the departmental stores initiated the concept of
stabilizing large amounts of mass produced goods for public consumption. (Steele 2005)
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Figure 1.4 Departmental Stores in 1908
In the 1930s, ladies’ vogue magazines started presenting illustrations for clothing patterns. Many
women still made their own clothes at home. By late the 20th century the US, especially New
York City, was the center of garment manufacturing and distribution. In 1965, 95% of
American's garments were American made. (Steele 2005)
1.3 Mass Production & Sizing:

The Civil War was a pivotal event in the historical development of men's ready-made clothing.
At the outset of the Civil War, most uniforms were custom-made in workers' homes under
government contract. As the war continued, however, manufacturers started to build factories
that could quickly and efficiently meet the growing demands of the military. Mass production of
uniforms necessitated the development of standard sizes. Measurements taken of the soldiers
revealed that certain sets of measurements tended to repeat with predictable regularity. After the
war, these military measurements were used to create the first commercial sizing scales for men.
The mass production of women's clothing developed more slowly. Women's outfits generally
continued to be custom-made well into the 1920s. In that decade, factors such as the
development of industrial production techniques, the rise of the advertising industry, the growth
of an urban professional class, and the development of national markets accessed through chain
stores and mail order catalogs, contributed to the success of the women's ready-made apparel
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industry. Ready-made articles of clothing were portrayed as modern and fashionable during a
time when the new consumer industries were rapidly redefining the way Americans viewed
mass-manufactured goods. Instead of seeing the purchase of mass-produced clothing as causing
a loss of individuality, American women began to accept the pieces of ready-made merchandise
as convenient, affordable, and up-to-date fashion items that could be replaced easily as styles
changed.
1.5 Background of the Study:
Garment manufacturing industry today is very competitive. This requires low price, less lead
time, and minimum costs. Garment manufacturing industry needs perfect planning and high
skilled technical people. Productivity improvement is a great challenge for management of
Garment Manufacturing industry. This study is concerned with the production systems of the
Garment Manufacturing processes. The assessment of the production system efficiency in the
factory is essential to meet the growing demand of customers with respect to time, cost and
quality of the product.
There are mainly two production systems working in Garments Manufacturing industries. BPS
(Bundle Production System), UPS (Unit Production System). The main aim of this research is to
reconsider the merits and demerits of both systems and differentiate both systems with respect to
time, cost, quality, Material Handling system, inventory management and machine maintenance.
In this study, production of garment manufacturing system of different garment manufacturing

companies was studied and analyzed. On the basis of literature review and data collected at
garment industry, the differences of the Garment Production Systems were pointed out.
Study revealed that there are some factors involved that make differences between PBS and
UPS. Those are transportation, through put time, direct labor content, WIP level, cutting work
requirement, inventory level and excess labor requirement.
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1.6 Conceptual Model of Production Systems:
Garment Industry is undergoing massive change which ends up in increased pressures on

retailers and apparel manufacturers. Both retailers and manufacturers are challenged to compete,
not just in terms of price, but also in delivery times and services offered. Recently, the apparel
industries are market driven. To meet market demands and generate profit, firms must fully
utilize their resources and successfully expand their productivity. The demands of today's market
require the flexibility and fast throughput implied to quick response (QR) strategies. Consumers'
demand for timely fashion, quality and value has made the manufacturers think of their
production strategies.(Vijayalakshmi 2009)
This strives to be responsive to consumer demand for small orders and short lead times. A good
production system has the capability to quickly and efficiently produce a variety of styles in
small production runs with no defects. Industries should effectively use the new technology and
resources. In simple words the manufacturing firm adopting new technologies will operate with
the flexibility needed to meet the demands of its consumers and the inherent ability to adapt
immediate changes in the apparel market. (Vijayalakshmi 2009)
Production Systems has been a key element in the improvement and productivity in apparel
sectors. A better production system leads the way for the organizations to achieve its goals with
minimum effort. Hence, the study of the subject at undergraduate and postgraduate level has
more significance.
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Chapter 2
Literature Review
2.1 Global Competition in the Garment Manufacturing:
Lower wages in developing countries together with the labor-intensiveness of apparel production
tend to give those countries a cost advantage in apparel manufacture and a locational advantage
for their textile production. Bernard A. Gelb also concludes, in general, elimination of quotas
provides more scope to countries whose industries are more efficient to gain at the expense of
countries with less efficient industries. (Gelb 2007)
However, it became widely believed and feared now seemingly justified that China will be a
major beneficiary at the expense of most other developing countries, although India and Pakistan
are expected to benefit appreciably as well. Bernard A. Gelb also concludes the ITC study and
some others see China as having low labor costs, high productivity, locally-produced materials,
and able to make “almost any type of textile and apparel product at any quality level at a
competitive price”. Bernard A. Gelb also concludes India has a large, versatile, strongly
competitive manufacturing base with low labor costs; and Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Vietnam
have sufficiently low labor costs to compete well in some product markets. (Gelb 2007)
2.2 Technology Adoption:
Technology adoption has emerged as an important determinant of competitiveness in recent

global trade. Gaining competitiveness in the quota free trade became a driving force for the
garment firms to adopt technologies. However, there has not been much research focused on
technology adoption of a firm, especially in the garment manufacturing industries in developing
countries. Very little is known about the status, activities, and organizational factors that affect
the scope and the level of technology adoption by garment manufacturers. (Varukolu 2007)
26
To compete successfully in the fiercely competitive post-MFA global free trade market, the
manufacturers must be sufficiently equipped with the latest knowledge of scientific management
in minimizing lead time and other management deficiencies. (Nuruzzaman and Haque 2009)
2.3 Line Layout:
The sewing line layout can be defined as the way sewing workstations are placed in the sewing
floor to form a line (or batch) that works on single style. The purpose of choosing one line layout
over other is to achieve best production with existing resources. (Sarkar n.d.)
The line layout in a factory is not changed frequently. Line layout is designed at the time of plant
set up and after that if factory wants to change production system they might need to redesign the
line layout. You may reallocate sewing machines while setting line for new styles but you don't
change the form of line. (Sarkar n.d.)
2.4 Types of Line Layout:
Though there are multiple options of sewing line layout to choose from, most garment
manufacturers are comfortable with straight lines having center table in between two rows of
machines.(Sarkar n.d.)
2.4.1 Line with center table and operators facing same direction:
Figure 2.1 Straight Line
27
In the line a center table is placed in between two rows of sewing machines. All operators sit on
workstation facing same direction. Operators pick bundles from center table and after stitching
dispose bundles on the center tables as shown in fig. 2.1.(Sarkar n.d.)
2.4.2 Line with center table and operators facing opposite direction:
Machine layout is same as above one. Difference is on operators’ sitting position. Operators sit
on the machine keeping center table left side. This layout is more convenient to all operators for
picking up work from left side as shown in fig 2.2. (Sarkar n.d.)
Figure 2.2 Straight line operators facing opposite direction
2.4.3 Straight line without center table and one raw of machines:
In this layout no center table is used for material handling. Instead cutting and finished garments
are kept of hangers, on baskets or on trolleys. It is further classified into different form of layout
where machines are placed in a straight line but no center table is used. (Sarkar n.d.)
2.4.3.1 Overhead material movement:
Figure 2.3 Straight line layouts with overhead material transportation
28
Garment components are placed clipped on hanger and transported on a rail as shown in fig
2.3.(Sarkar n.d.)
2.4.3.2 Trolley for material transportation:
In this layout instead of center table, trolleys are used for material transportation as shown in fig
2.4.(Sarkar n.d.)
Fig 2.4 Straight line layout with trolleys
2.4.3.3 Line having individual disposal basket:
Instead of center table individual disposal, baskets are provided to operators as shown in fig
2.5.(Sarkar n.d.)
Figure 2.5 Straight line layout with individual disposal basket
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2.4.4 Side by side machine layout:
In this layout sewing machines are placed side by side. Two rows of sewing machines are faced
each other. This type of layout in garment factory is usually used for single piece production
system as shown in fig. 2.6.(Sarkar n.d.)
Figure 2.6 Side by Side machine layout
2.4.5 U-shaped line layout:
This kind of line layout is used in lean manufacturing. Machines are placed side by side and U-
shape is formed to make a line. Operators sit inside. No center table is used. This line layout is
also known as modular line as shown in fig 2.7.(Sarkar n.d.)
Figure 2.7 U-shaped line layout.
2.4.6 Modular line layout:
In lean manufacturing, to reduce material transportation and increase the machine utilization
sewing machines are placed in such a way that neither it forms a U-shape nor a straight line.
30
Instead machines placed that suits better to work into multiple sewing machines sitting in single
chair.(Sarkar n.d.)
2.4.7 Machine layout in UPS system:
Machines are placed in straight line but in an angle. In the other UPS workstation machines can
be placed side by side as shown in fig 2.8.(Sarkar n.d.)
Figure 2.8 Line layouts in UPS system
2.5 Production Systems:
Production systems are named according to the various factors, like- number of machine are used
to make a garment, machines layout, total number of operators or tailors involved to sew a
complete garment and number of pieces moving in a line during making a garment. As the
fashion industry evolved and demand of readymade garments are increased, the need of mass
production systems becomes the essential way to meet the market demand. Because tailoring
shops are not only able to produce high volume of apparel but along with, they are unable to
supply across the world. (Online Clothing Study n.d.)
2.5.1 Make Through System:
Make through is a system by which a tailor stitch a single complete garment. The tailor also
makes pattern, cuts fabric and does finishing of the garment. For example, tailors in their shops,
do all jobs from cut to pack. In this system tailors are not depended to others. It is also known as
made to measure system.(Online Clothing Study n.d.)
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Figure 2.9 Make Through System.
2.5.2 Progressive Bundle System:
In Progressive bundle system, every worker does different operations on apparel. All the
machines needed to make the garment are installed in a line. Bundles are fed in a bundle form.
When an operator receives a bundle of cut parts, he/she untie the bundle and does his/her
operation for all pieces of the bundle. After completing his/her job operator moves the bundle to
the next operator for the next operation. Different operators are involved in sewing a single
garment. Main advantages of this system are – one operator do only a single operation, hence
performance increases. And product consistency can be maintained garment to garment. Most of
the export oriented industries adopted progressive bundle system as a main production system.
(Online Clothing Study n.d.)
Figure 2.10 Production Bundle Systems
2.5.3 Modular Production System:
Modular Production System means, sewing machine operators work in the form of a group.
Neither they sew complete garment, nor do they single operation. Multi skilled operators work in
a group and each of the team members do different operations. In MPS, workers help each other
32
to finish the garment quickly and they are fully responsible for quality and production. In this
system, always team performance is measured instead of single operator performance. Modular
Production System is very successful because of quick response where ever it is needed. (Online
Clothing Study n.d.)
Figure 2.11 Modular Production System
2.5.4 Overhead Production System (UPS):
In Overhead Production System or Unit Production system, cut parts are hanged in a hanger and
the hanger moves on an overhead rail. In the hanger components of a single piece is clamped. So
this is also one kind of single-piece-flow system. (Online Clothing Study n.d.)
Figure 2.12 Overhead Production System
33
2.5.5 Section Production System:
This system is similar to the progressive bundle system. But the difference is that, instead of one
line, work is divided into sections. Machines of similar operations are clubbed together instead of
spreading over in all lines.
For example, when a man’s formal shirt is being made in a section layout – collars, cuffs and
sleeves are in the preparatory sections and then send to the assembly section. This system is
popular to improve line balancing and utilization of human resources shown in fig 2.13 (Online
Clothing Study n.d.)
Figure 2.13 Section Production System
2.6 Disadvantages of the Traditional Methods:
Today, consumer desires to personalize the style, fit and color of the clothes they buy. Customer
requires high-quality customized products at low prices with faster delivery. They also describe
that by focusing on producing the maximum number of units in a given period of time, the
bundle system has caused problems that include excess inventory, a long lead time, and low
quality. Mr. Lee S and Mr. Chen, J also describe that apparel manufacturers have begun to try
JIT (Just-In-Time) or QR (Quick Response) concepts to eliminate excess inventory, long lead
time, and low quality in traditional manufacturing systems. (Lee 2000)
Traditionally operated garment industries are facing problems like low productivity, longer
production lead time, high rework and rejection, poor line balancing, low flexibility of style
34
changeover etc. High WIP in traditional type of batch production is the major problem faced by
industries. Due to high WIP the throughput time as well as rework is very high. In some cases,
even though the operator has completed the stitching operations the garment cannot be packed
because of high WIP. Due to huge WIP, the defective parts are hidden inside the batches and it is
very difficult to clear them while completing the final order quantity. This is the reason why
garment professionals seem to work like fire fighters; because they are always in a hurry for
searching the missing garment pieces all over the shop floor.
Secondly, in batch processing flexibility cannot be achieved easily; which is the current demand
of garment industry. This is obstructed by the decreasing order size and increasing number of
styles. So to meet this requirement production layout should be designed such that it should hold
minimum WIP and should be flexible enough to the changing of order.
Thirdly, in batch process operators are given specific jobs, so the operator knows one or a few
more operations only. Though he (she) may have good skill and can work more efficiently on
one (allocated job only) operation; he (she) cannot work immediately on some other operation.
This is another need of today’s world, because the fashion is changing frequently and the work
force should be capable enough to cope with this change.(Paneru 2011)
To achieve this, operator should be multi-skilled; which can be served by regular training and
converting long assembly lines into small manufacturing cells. Workload fluctuation among
operators is another problem in batch processing, because one operator is given one operation at
a time. So the operator who is performing easier and low time consuming jobs can pile up a huge
amount of WIP whereas in the critical operations (operations which need more time and skill)
there is lagging causing unbalanced WIP in-between machines and the work load is not proper
among operators.(Paneru 2011)
2.7 Underutilization of Latest Technology:
50% of the US firms do not use the latest technology and the remaining 50% of the firms only
achieve 80% utilization of the full potential of the technology deployed. The development of the
35
latest technology in the developing world is substantially lower than that in the Western
World.(Singh 2006)
However, the most time consuming process of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing still remains a
labor intensive activity and cannot be fully automated. The researchers’ dream of operator-less
garment factory still remains a dream. The report further says that many small supplier countries
of apparel had come in business due to quota system. Once the quotas go these countries will
drop their significance and countries with efficient apparel industry, like India, can capture the
market share of these supplier countries.(Singh 2006)
2.8 Use of Traditional Methods and Machinery:
Despite the globalization and internalization of competition and surplus of apparel production,
high labor costs and other economic pressures, apparel products are still being produced using
traditional methods and machinery, the mechanics of which have not fundamentally changed
since the seventeenth century, even nowadays when the materials produced are very flexible and
diverse in texture and properties.(Stylios 1996)
2.9 Need for Lean Manufacturing:
Within the garment industry the production orders are often given at very short notice, which
makes it hard for producers to make any long-term planning. In response to this, the producers
use a lot of compulsory overtime and a flexible workforce in order to be able to produce
according to the changing orders and low prices.(Fredricsdotter and Stigzelius 2006)
Apparel production is characterized by labor-intensive manual operations, frequent style

changes, seasonal demand and shortening production lead times. In a complex mixed mode
production environment, it is very important to allocate job orders to suitable production lines so
as to ensure the effective utilization of production resources and on-time completion of all job
orders.(Mok, et al. 2011)
36
2.10 Main Objectives of the Study:
Study of different production systems in garment industry and problems faced during
manufacturing of garments. There are two main objectives of this study. These objectives can be
broken down as below:
Objective 1: Investigation of the existing problems consists of following steps:
1) Identification of some problems exists in Garment Manufacturing industry.

2) Development of a conceptual model of production system in garment industry.
Objective 2: Solution to the problems consists of following steps:
1) Solutions of problems by using latest techniques.

2) Construction of a Problem-Solution Chart.
37
Chapter 3
Differential Analysis
3.1 Apparel Export:
The Apparel exports of Pakistan were US $ 1,321 million in 1999 which means that the share of
Pakistan’s apparel exports in the global market is only 0.82 percent. The apparel products
exports have increased at an average annual growth rate of 4.92 percent from US $ 1,090 million
to US $ 1,321 million during 1994-99. Although the growth in the exports of Pakistan matches
with the growth in the global import markets but in case of Pakistan it is being driven by a
limited product categories.
The main focus of the Pakistan’s exports has been on two major markets USA and EU. In 1999
the exports of apparel product to USA were US $ 751 million and exports to EU were US $ 463
million. This reflects that around 92 percent of the Pakistan’s exports are directed towards EU
and USA, which are major quota markets. The rest of the exports are made to other countries
including Canada, Middle East, Australia and other Asian countries.
Over the past five years the apparel exporters seem to have adopted an exit strategy in the non-
quota countries as more and more exports are now towards quota markets. During 1995, the total
exports to non-quota market had a share of 14 percent, whereas the exports to the USA and EU
constituted 49 percent and 37 percent. A greater tendency of exports to quota markets is obvious.
This situation makes Pakistan highly dependent on the quota-restricted markets.(Laan 2002)
3.2 Apparel Industry Structure:
The textile exports of Pakistan are US $ 5.615 million whereas the apparel exports constitute a
total of US $ 1.658 million. This represents only 14 percent of the total textile exports. Whereas
globally the trend is that the share of the exports of the apparel products is nearly 70 percent.
This reveals that the Pakistan’s exports are basically concentrated on the low value added
products like exports of cotton/textile fabric, cotton yarn/thread and other items.
38
Apparel products being the highest value added category in the textile exports does not have a
large share. If the secondary data sources are consulted in order to determine the size of the
apparel sector in Pakistan, these sources are highly under-reported. The Census of Manufacturing
Industries (CMI 1995-96) gives the total number of registered apparel manufacturing units as
one hundred and 30 only (130) and the number of persons engaged in these units is around
fourteen thousand (14,000). Similarly, according to the Survey of Household and Manufacturing
Industries (SHMI 1996-97) the number of total apparel stitching units in the informal sector is
around four thousand (3,839 precisely). The total number of persons engaged is highly
underestimated at seven thousand.(Laan 2002)
3.3 Gender Split in Employment:
The apparel manufacturing industry in Pakistan is the single largest industrial employment
provider in the country. The male workers who comprise almost 90 percent of the total labor
force dominate the employment in the sector. The industry prefers to hire male workers as tailors
whereas; female workers are only hired as helpers in the trimming and packing sections. Key
factors given by the industry includes the following:
1) Labor laws in the country impose restriction on women employment after 7 P.M. Due to
the cyclic nature of the apparel industry and depending upon orders obtained by a specific
unit, it becomes difficult for female workers to work extra time.
2) The entrepreneurs also avoid hiring female workers because of the maternity benefits that
are to be provided to a female employee.
3) The apparel industry heavily relies on ‘Ustaad-Shagird’ tradition (apprenticeship on the
job training). Mostly the stitching masters are male, and they tend to have a gender bias
against training of women workers.
Although generally the women workers are considered to be more productive by the apparel
industry as compared to male workers, male workers are given a preferential treatment by the
apparel sector on the basis of the above mentioned factors. (Laan 2002)
39
3.4 Competitiveness of Apparel Manufacturing in Pakistan:
Even with increasing labor costs and the costs of other inputs, Pakistan is still highly competitive
in apparel manufacturing. The total cost of garments is below the average unit price realization
of different competitors. The highest cost content, almost 80 percent, in any garment is that of
the inputs including fabric, trimming and accessories. The labor cost per garment is within the
range of 7 percent to 11 percent, depending upon the type of garment produced.(Laan 2002)
3.5 Wages and Salaries in Apparel Industry in Pakistan:
The labor force in the apparel industry in Pakistan can be classified into three categories, the first
category is that of supervisors supervising a particular department such as stitching and cutting,
the second category is that of skilled workers performing a specific function in apparel
manufacturing such as stitching and finally there are a number of helpers and workers
performing basic recurring functions in each department constituting the semi-skilled and
unskilled workers. Interestingly majority of the female work force is only employed to perform
semi-skilled operations. It is for this reason that there is high presence of women in the clipping
and packaging sections meaning thereby that the female workers are the lowest paid in the
apparel sector.
Along with the presence of integrated units, which perform knitting, dyeing and finishing
operations in-house, there exist a breed of stitching units which only perform commercial
operations on a ‘Cut, Manufacture and Trim (CMT)’ basis. These units work for direct exporters,
and salaries in these units are paid on a ‘Piece Rate’ basis. As far as the efficiency and
productivity of the workers are concerned, piece rate workers are more productive as compared
to the workers employed on fixed wages.(Laan 2002)
In these conditions it is very difficult for the labor to work comfortably and efficiently.
40
3.6 Comparative Wages and Productivity:
Despite consistent inflationary pressures, Pakistan is still highly competitive in labor costs as
compared to developed countries. The average hourly wage in the apparel industry is within the
range of US $ 0.22 to 0.30. This makes it competitive with the developed countries even if the
productivity of the labor force is only 50 percent to that of the USA. In developing countries like
India and Bangladesh, the average wages are even lower than that of Pakistan. The competition
with these economies is only possible by enhancing productivity and curtailing process wastage.
(Laan 2002)
3.7 Working Conditions in Apparel Industry:
Almost all the apparel manufacturing units, which deal with institutional buyers with brand
names or labels or even with chain stores, have to comply with the ‘Standards of Engagement
(SOE)’ imposed by the buyers. These standards lay down specific conditions in which the
workers can be employed including the ventilating requirements, water facility, hygienic
working conditions, etc. Certain buyers also require that these standards are also displayed in the
manufacturing premises to create awareness amongst the workers about their rights. However at
the same time, labor welfare schemes providing social cover and other benefits are only
implemented in the formal sector.(Laan 2002)
3.8 SCM in Pakistan:
Could Pakistan meet the present and future lead time demand and price of western markets?
Unfortunately, Pakistani textile industry was not and never prepared for this scenario. Following
important issues are worth mentioning in this case; despite of having latest computerized
manufacturing machines; there is no production and inventory planning systems available.
Talking of the human factor, majority of the industrial planning is done by illiterate and less
educated persons holding the position of manager, mainly due to presumed cost saving reasons
by executives. Even in the available educational institutions related to industry and textile, less
emphasis is given to SCM issue on practical grounds.
41
The stake of warehousing is also at alarming level. Not talking of quality deterioration, these
warehouses are also a sink of resources. Inventory level planning is also an issue here. The
available roads infrastructure is a major element of SCM. Pakistani government has spent a lot of
money in improving this infrastructure and is continuously upgrading the roads and highways
which is a better sign for the SCM of textile value chain. Railway logistic infrastructure is not so
better in this regard with lot of delays in operation and transportation.
The situation of maritime is also alarming. With few and old flag ship carriers; majority of the
export is dependent on foreign ships. The stake of operational capabilities at harbors is quite poor
with containers lying for days and days before they are transported to concerned ships. The
available terminals have less capacity and infrastructure to cope with the incoming containers
and result is the lying of containers in port for days on trucks. Again increasing the customer
response time and increasing costs.
Currently Pakistan has no deep sea container terminal to handle large vessels. International
Shipping companies are frequently changing their vessels to bigger-size vessels, which could
accommodate large volumes of containers. Unfortunately these bigger vessels could not serve
current Pakistani Ports. This increases the maritime cost and time.
With all of the above factors, Pakistani textile industry is losing its competitiveness in
international market. The buyers are getting a response of low service quality thus reducing their
confidence to do business with Pakistani industry. In this stage Pakistani industry could neither
meet the lead time demand of highly profitable textile & fashion products nor could meet the low
price expectation of western markets.
Under these circumstances, the western buyers hesitate to have its high value product
manufactured and share market risk with Pakistani manufacturers and exporters. Despite of
having state of the art machineries and access to capital, Pakistani textile industry is compelled to
constantly manufacture and export raw, non-seasonal and low value textile products where high
capital is required to manufacture at extremely less margins, thus reducing overall
competitiveness in the region. Supply Chain Management should be the key focus to enhance
42
competitiveness of existing Pakistani textile industry and can help it to achieve best in the global
market.
3.9 Issues at different Production Systems:
There are some problems which exist inside the production floor. These problems affect directly
on the production and the quality, cause by negligence.
These problems produce due to negligence of labor working in the production unit or by the
procedure adopted by the management.
3.9.1 Bundle Production System:
1) Material Handling problem is found difficult in BPS, High WIP, and Dust problem, Bag
damage creates cut in fabric cut parts.
2) Mixing of trolleys, inefficient working of Trolley wheel.
3) On the Heat Transfer machine there is a lot of wastage of label.
4) On the Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine, wastage of resources due to Pulley Breakage,
Top damage, Needle breakage
5) On the Over-lock Machine, wastage of resources due to Lopper timing adjustment and
Needle breakage.
6) On the Flat lock Machine, wastage of resources due to Lopper timing adjustment and
Needle breakage.
7) Most common Finishing Problems were improper hand tag and uneven accessories.
3.9.2 ETON System:
1) In the Hanger System various problems found including Bottle neck, High WIP, Hanger
breakage, Hanger clips breakage (while unloading), Wheel jam, and Wheel breakage.
43
Needle breakage.
Needle breakage.
3.9.3 Hanger System:
1) In the Hanger System various problems found including Bottle neck, High WIP, Hanger
breakage, Hanger clips breakage (while unloading), Wheel jam, and Wheel breakage.
2) Key problems were poor quality, ineffective layout planning, non-standardized methods,
unproductive process design, unsuccessful Material Handling system, poor inventory
management, poor machine maintenance, insufficient production planning and wastage
of resources.
Needle breakage.
Needle breakage.
3.10 Comparative Study of different Production Systems:
The comparisons of some systems are:
3.10.1 ETON System:
1) It is noticed that Eton system has minimum throughput time, work in progress and
maximum line balancing, supply chain and layout utilization.
2) The quality of product made in Eton system is very fine and there is very low chance of
error/rejection.
44
3) It is expensive as compared to other system but it has more advantages than others.
4) It has maximum production and is a time saving system.
5) Sportsweas are usually manufactured in this system.
6) In this system highly skilled labor is required.
7) The production of Eton system is 16,000 pieces/ day.
8) In short it is very effective, efficient system among all systems.
3.10.2 Bundle System:
1) It is commonly used in our apparel industry.

2) It has maximum throughput time, work in progress and minimum line balancing, supply
chain.
3) The quality is average and chance of error is more.
4) In this system, we can make all types of garments.
5) This system requires less area.
3.10.3 Hanger and Trolley System:
1) In these systems throughput time is optimum.

2) Optimum work in progress
3) Line balancing and supply chain will also be optimum.
4) Commonly crew neck and sportswear are manufactured in these systems.
5) Quality is good.
6) Highly skilled labor is not required.
7) Time consuming system.
8) Chance of error is more.
In above comparison it is noticed that progressive bundle system needs attention of management
of the industry because it has more deficiencies in it.
Trolley and hanger systems also need attention because they have more issues as compared to
ETON system.
45
Table 3.1 shows a brief comparison of ETON, hanger, trolley and progressive bundle system
Table 3.1 Comparison among Different Production Systems:
Description ETON System Hanger Trolley System Bundle

System System
Through put Time 4 3 2 1
Supply Chain 1 2 3 4
Garment Type Sports Wear TEE / Crew Sports Wear All types
neck
Quality Same Same Same Same
Quality of Product Fine Optimum Optimum Average
Skill level of labor 1 2 3 4
Layout 1 2 3 4
SAM 10 % less than Same Same Same

others
Line Balance 1 2 3 4
WIP 4 3 2 1
46
Area 1 2 3 4
Machine Maintenance 1 2 3 4
Response of Mechanic Same Same Same Same
3.11 Differential Analysis of BPS and ETON system:
In readymade garment manufacturing plants various types of sewing systems are installed. A
plant owner chooses these systems depending on the production volume, product categories, and
cost effectiveness of high tech machines. Among those “Progressive Bundle System” (PBS) is
mostly installed sewing system till date. In this production system bundles of cut pieces (bundle
of 5, 10, 20 or 30 pieces) are moved manually to feed the line. Then inside the line an operator
himself drag the bundle from side table and transfer the bundle to the next operator after
completion of the work.
With the advancement of the technology mechanical material transportation systems are brought
in the sewing plant. An overhead material transport system, known as UPS (Unit Production
System) transports cut pieces hanged in hangers (one hanger for one piece) by automated
mechanical transport system. It reduces manual transportation and it has many other benefits
against the progressive bundle system. This article is not to recommend one to replace this well
placed progressive bundle system. When to install a new technology is depend on various
factors.
A comparison between these two production systems has been drawn in the following table 3.2
on the basis of production KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) to show how an UPS system
(overhead hanging and sensor controlled system) is most effective over PBS.
47
Table 3.2 Differential Analysis of BPS and ETON system.
Parameters PBS ETON
Manual transportation, many In this system an automated

times helper are hired for this mechanical system carries pieces
bundle transportation job. to each work stations.
Transportation Operators stop their work to Easier pick up and dispose at each
fetch bundles. work station. Resulted quick
response time
Less effective in terms of

production management.
Resulted long response time.
Compare to ETON, through put Through put time in ETON is less

time longer in PBS. How much compare to PBS. But it is not the
Through put time long will depend on the bundle minimum time as in this system
size and no. of bundles kept in there is WIP in between two
between two operators. operators.
Direct labor content is high Direct labor content is less than

because usually operator does PBS because an operator only
tying and untying of bundles, sews the garment part rather than
positioning components, pulling other tasks. In this system
Direct Labor content
the bundle ticket and handling of garment parts are held by the
overhead hanger, so less handling
48
work pieces. of garment components.
In PBS generally operators are Less WIP in between operators.

asked to sew as much pieces as As workstation has limit of
they can without considering holding no. of hangers. Also after
back and front operators. This completion of operation hangers
WIP level
resulted piling up of work in the are transported to the next
operations with higher work operation automatically.
content.
As a result of High Work In Lower WIP results in less cutting

Process (WIP) is required by works. A balanced flow of
Cutting work sewing section, cutting sections material established in between
requirement are required to perform 60-70% cutting and sewing line.
more than actual production can
handle.
Due high WIP and higher Fewer inventories for fabric and
cutting, fabrics and trims need to trims.
Inventory Level stock in advance
Usually in PBS needs more Plant with ETON system needs

overtime works, repair work due less overtime as planning is easy
Excess labor to some unfinished operations. in this manufacturing system.
requirement
49
3.12 Advantages and Disadvantages of BPS and UPS:
3.12.1 Bundle Production System:
The progressive bundle system, while being somewhat cumbersome in operation and requiring
large quantities of work in progress, is probably one of the most stable systems as regards output.
Unless there is serious absenteeism or prolonged special machine breakdowns, most of the usual
hold-ups can be absorbed because of the amounts of work in progress.
Balancing and the changeover to new styles are also somewhat simplified, due to the amount of
work held in reverse. When properly managed, the progressive bundle system is versatile and
efficient.
3.12.1.1 Advantages:
1. Labors of all levels like: unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labors are involved in this system
where the operations are broken into small simple operation. Hence the cost of labor is
very cheap.
2. Here the quantity of each component is checked during the individual operation itself, so
the quality is good.
3. The components are moved in bundles from one operation to next operation, so there is
less chance for confusion like, lot mix-up, shade variation, size variation, etc.
4. Specialization and rhythm of operation increase productivity.
5. As the WIP is high in this system, this is stable system. Because of the buffer, the
breakdown, absenteeism, balancing of line, change of style can be easily managed.
6. An effective production control system and quality control system can be implemented.
 Time study, method study techniques.
 Operator training program.
 Use of material handling equipment, such as center table, conveyor, trolley, bins, etc.
7. Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving the problems becomes easy.
3.12.1.2 Disadvantages:
1. Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is solved by an efficient supervisor.
50
2. Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is needed.
3. Proper planning requires for each batch and for each style, which takes a lot of time.
4. Improper planning causes labor turnover, poor quality, less production, etc.
5. Increase in WIP in each section increases the inventory cost.
6. Planned and proper layout should be made to make the system effective, ie, smooth flow
of material.
7. Variety of styles & less quantity are not effective in this system.
8. Shuttle operators and utility operators needed in every batch to balance the line
effectively.
3.12.2 Unit Production System:
Unit Production System requires substantial investments, which are not always justified by
conventional payback calculations. Apart from the measurable tangible benefits, UPS also have
many intangible benefits such as a more orderly and controlled flow of work, and the ability via
the control computer of simulating the production situation some time in advance. These
intangibles are difficult to measure, but in themselves make a very positive contribution to the
overall viability of the unit.
All things considered, unit production systems have major advantages over the other entire
manual and the mechanical systems used for the mass production of clothing. Most importantly,
they provide a clothing factory with the capability to respond quickly to any changes, which
might occur. In the fast moving fashion business, this is essential.
3.12.2.1 Advantages:
1. Bundle handling completely eliminated.

2. The time involved in the pick-up and disposal is reduced to minimum.
3. Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the operator to register the work.
4. The computerized systems automatically balance the work between stations.
5. Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one system.
51
3.12.2.2 Disadvantages:
1. Unit production system requires high investments.

2. The payback period of the investment takes long time.
3. Proper planning is required to be effective.
3.13 Problems Identified at BPS:
3.13.1 High Work in Process (WIP) and Rework:
High work in process was observed at all stages of garment manufacturing like fabric store,
cutting, sewing, finishing, and packing department. In the cutting department, a lot of poly bags
of cut garments were placed under the cutting tables. There was no free space under the cutting
tables. During study it was observed that huge WIP was pending on a single machine in stitching
department because of the absence of operator. There was also a great amount of rework as
shown in figure 3.1
Figure 3.1 High WIP
3.13.2 Extended waiting time:
It was noticed that some operators were waiting for a long time to receive work from their next
operators as shown in the figure. Busy operators had too much WIP (Work in Process). There is
a need of balancing the sewing line as shown in figure 3.2
52
Figure 3.2 Extended waiting Time
3.13.3 Blockage of Floor Space:
Floor space was blocked due to unorganized stock of garments in the fabric store, cutting room,
sewing room, finishing, and packing area. This excess storage in the stitching room creates
problems in which material handling and disturbance in sewing as shown in the figure 3.3
Figure 3.4 Blockage of Floor Space.
3.13.4 High Percentage of Rejection:
There was high percentage of rejected garments due to lack of preventive maintenance, lack of
staff with technical knowledge, uneducated labor, and ineffective quality management system as
shown in the figure 3.5
53
Figure 3.5 High Rejection Percentages.
54
Chapter 4
Recommendations
4.1 Problem Solution Table :
On the basis of literature review, case studies, and our findings at sewing companies we have
developed a problem-solution chart which has been discussed in the table 4.1 given below.
Table 4.1 Problem-Solution Table:
Sr.
Problems Identified Possible Solution
no.
Introduce Method Study

Different and inefficient work
methods.
1 Process Design
Excessive setting up time

Introduce Time Study
Low flexibility of style

changeover
2 Develop layout planning skills
Layout limitations to the
production capacity
Poor line balancing
3 Implement line balancing techniques

Unbalanced processes
Process bottlenecks hindering
55
productivity
WIP fluctuations
4 Insufficient space Optimize space utilization
5 Inefficient production processes Improve Processes
Find optimized way of production

6 Inflexibility of production system
management
7 Improper material handling system Implement material handling techniques
8 Improper maintenance Develop maintenance skills in workers
9 Improper training Organize Training Programs
10 Poor working environment Improve environment
11 Poor house keeping Follow housekeeping rules
12 Inefficient material utilization Increase efficiency
Poor quality
Implement quality management system
High rework
13
Involvement of workers in improvement
High cost of poor quality programs
High rejection rate of completed
56
garments
14 Large lot sizes Reduce lot sizes
Implement latest technology

Lack of technology and less
15
automation Arrange training for taking maximum
benefits from technology
Hire educated workers

16 Less educated workers
Train existing workers
Forced overtime Increase efficiency

17
No overtime payment Good Production Planning
18 Lack of skilled workforce Train the workforce on latest skills
19 Absence of attention to work Set targets
Inefficient utilization of available

20 Perform Capacity planning
capacity
Wastage of time while starting On time availability of product

21
new product in production specifications
High lead time

Implement Just In Time (JIT)
22
manufacturing
Low labor productivity
57
Excess inventory Master production scheduling
Wastage of manpower, fabric,

man-hour, floor space
High percentage of rejection

23 Good Maintenance management
Machine problems
24 Inflexible work force Train workers on Multi Skills
Insufficient working conditions

Follow environmental management
25
techniques
Compliance Issues
Large amount of material handling

26 Introduce material handling techniques
time
No/very few utilization of latest

technology.
Arrange training for taking maximum -
27
benefits from technology
Traditional methods and
machinery
Less knowledge of productivity Introduce productivity measurement

28
measurement techniques
29 Difficulty in long term planning Establish production planning methods
30 Low productivity
Introduce productivity measurement
58
techniques
Problems of the production system can be appraised by this chart. This chart can be used doing
comparison of production system for different organizations, or for different periods in one
organization. Through the establishment of the chart, to some extent, the effectiveness of
production system can be quantified and compared. What’s more, this chart will be benefit to
relevant researches too.
4.2 Production Strategies:
The four identified production strategies are:
4.2.1 Flexible Manufacturing Strategy:
This strives to be responsive to consumer demand for small orders and short lead times. Flexible
Manufacturing Strategy means the capability to quickly and efficiently produce a variety of
styles in small production runs with no defects. Industry adopting this strategy should effectively
use the new technology and resources. In simple words the manufacturing firm adopting this
strategy will operate with the flexibility needed to meet the demands of its consumers and the
inherent ability to adapt immediate changes in the apparel market.
4.2.2 Value Added Manufacturing Strategy:
This is a quick response strategy that focuses on eliminating any unnecessary operations or
handling that do not increase the value of a product which will lead to delay in production. The
rationale of this strategy is that each operation performed on a style should add value. Operations
such as inspection, bundling and warehouse sorting, requires extra time. Such activities do not
add any value to the product. Any industry which adopts value added environment needs to
evaluate processes and find more efficient ways to produce a product.
4.2.3 Agile Manufacturing Strategy:
Agility is the dynamic ability of the firm to strategically use change as a vehicle to grow in the
new markets, with new products and to develop new competencies. It requires an openness to
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change and flexibility to pursue change. The real strength of irresponsive/agile manufacturer is
its ability to anticipate consumer needs and through innovation lead the emergence of new
products.
4.2.4 Mass Customization:
The goal of mass customization is to produce products that can be made-to-order rather than
made to plan. Products life cycle are short and the strategy requires processing single orders with
immediate turn around. Considering the complexity of many apparel products and the number of
processes that a style may require, the equipment, skills, information and the processes must be
highly integrated. This may involve single ply cutting, single piece continuous floor
manufacturing and integral information technology.
Apparel consumers will soon have the opportunity to have garments fully customized including
style, fit, fabric and trim with delivery direct to their home in a few days at a price similar to the
mass produced garments. Body scanning technology will be the basis of custom fit. A
combination of computer aided design, single ply cutters, team based assembly will facilitate
shipping the garment the same day it is ordered. Mass customization will reduce the risk
associated with trying to anticipate consumer demand months ahead of point of sale to the
ultimate consumer.
4.3 Recommendations for better production:
There are problems that affect badly on the production and quality work of the industry it also
effect on the financial status of the organization so following are the recommendations for
removing the those problems;
4.3.1 Maximum use of Natural Light:
There are rare practices of natural light utilization. Very few of the factories are utilizing the
natural light effectively. To use the natural light effectively is a good practice; it decrease the
utility cost thus reducing manufacturing cost. Therefore beneficiaries have to consider this aspect
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to become energy competitive in terms of light utilization. We should take advantage of sunlight,
a free natural source of light, while controlling comfort in the workspace.
This is achieved with automated shading systems that effectively position the shades to ensure
that the building collects the maximum amount of the natural light.
In today’s economy, garment manufacturing companies are challenged to reduce costs at an

exceptional level. Every facility, in every industry, is faced with “doing more with less,” due to
rising costs and lower revenues. In commercial buildings, one of the largest costs of operation is
energy. Lighting makes up 40 percent of the total energy use in a building.
4.3.2 Improvements in Lightning Condition:
It was also observed that in many factories, the lightening conditions are not so good especially
at the workstation of sewing operator and quality controller which result in B-quality, rework
and high defect percentage.
The positioning, height and intensity of tube light should be according to the standards
(especially for the operators) i.e. close to the working area that the visibility of the ongoing work
should be clear. Energy savers and closed circuit technology should be used in the offices. They
should be designed to effectively utilize the natural light and sensors may be placed to detect the
human presence and direct light management accordingly in order to conserve energy loss.
Proper lighting conditions are critical for good productivity.
Many employers have found that lighting improvements have improved productivity by 10
percent, and reduced errors by 30 percent. Conversely, poor lighting can cause eye strain, fatigue
and headache. Make full use of natural lighting through windows or sunlight.
This reduces electricity bills and improves the work environment. Workstations that need more
light should be moved closer to windows. Use a combination of natural and artificial light and
adjust lighting to the task-related types of work. Use light colors on walls. Use local lighting
(needle lights) when necessary for some types of fabric, thread or seams at the needle point. Re-
orient the workstations to maximize use of available light. It results in improved quality and
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higher productivity. It results in decreased fatigue and work-related illnesses like eye strain and
headaches. Improved health condition of the workers leads to a decrease in absenteeism. Provide
more windows and sunlight throughout the entire factory. These should be cleaned regularly.
Install more light where necessary. Regularly maintain lights by dusting off light sources,
replacing lights at regular intervals, and cleaning dirt on walls, ceilings, windows, and sunlight as
shown in figure 4.1.
Figure 4.1 Better Light Conditions
4.3.3 Better Environment and Housekeeping:
The hot, humid & dusty environment and bad housekeeping leads to unsatisfied workers,
increased unwanted movements and drop in concentration, resulting in low productivity and
quality. Today’s customers are very critical and conscious, and prefer the companies having
good working conditions to place their orders.
Only a few factories have relatively better housekeeping and working conditions. Therefore, in
order to attract the famous buyers and compete in the global markets, the garment companies
should have to invest and consult for improving the working conditions. Suggested technique to
improve the housekeeping and working environment is to implement the Japanese concept of 5-S
Kaizen.
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4.3.4 Performance measurement:
Performance measurement is evaluating how well organizations are managed and the value they
deliver for customers and other stakeholders. It is the process of assessing progress toward
achieving predetermined goals, including information on the efficiency with which resources are
transformed into goods and services (outputs), the quality of those outputs (how well they are
delivered to clients and the extent to which clients are satisfied) and outcomes (the results of a
program activity compared to its intended purpose), and the effectiveness of operations in terms
of their specific contributions to program objectives.
The garment industry should adopt performance management system in their organizations in
order to measure and evaluate their performance and take corrective measures accordingly. An
effective approach to performance management enables employees and teams to understand the
goals of the organization and to see how individual and team outputs contribute to the
achievement of organizational objectives and values. Integrating people, planning and
performance with organizational objectives develops individual and organizational capability
and leads to higher performance.
The performance assessment process expresses the standards of work expected of employees and
the values and behaviors employees are expected to uphold in meeting their job requirements,
communicating and working with others. Performance management leads to higher performance
that is more closely directed to the objectives and needs of the organization. Performance
appraisal and feedback assist employees to understand what work they do well and how they can
improve their performance. Utilization of suggested technique is climate survey, 360° evaluation,
productivity diagnosis, etc.
4.3.5 Displaying Educational Posters:
It is very effective because they are easy to make, deliver a consistent message, and use pictures
which are a strong form of communication targeting specific behavior.
Examples include posters on lifting positions, proper mask wearing and reproductive health. Use
posters to address specific problems or concerns. For example, posters can remind workers to
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dispose of fabric in rubbish bins or how to use proper lifting postures. Use posters to change
desired behaviors using local examples as shown in figure 4.2.
Figure 4.2 Educational Poster
Display posters where they will be useful and are easy to see. Posters relating to specific jobs
should be near relevant workstations. Posters related to general factory behaviors should be
located in more centralized areas. Posters work best when they are part of a more comprehensive
training program that includes training, information sessions, exercises, etc.
Posters that promote safety and reinforce important skills will present a positive image of the
workplace. It demonstrates to workers and buyers that the company cares about the welfare of its
staff. It easily, cheaply and consistently communicates simple messages about jobs. It is needed
to create your own posters. We should draw pictures or have workers' photographs taken and add
text. Use posters to communicate simple points in order to make the message clear and direct.
Download free posters or images from the internet and add in text. Make posters for specific
work procedures.
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4.3.6 Recommendations for Industrial Engineering:
Industrial engineering department has a great importance in the textile apparel industry. It deals
with working procedures, layout design, I.E techniques, technology development, ergonomic etc.
Following are the recommendations for I.E department;
4.3.6.1 Use of I.E Techniques:
Industrial Engineering techniques are very helpful in any organization for increasing its
productivity and quality. The garment sector in Sri Lanka, India, China, and other competitive
countries employ IE techniques to make their processes and workers more productive. IE
techniques are helpful in addressing / estimating lead times, no. of workers, working / operating
time, costing, process designs, process flows, line balancing, best methods to produce, etc.
In Pakistan, the industrialists are realizing the importance of IE and making their efforts to
establish IE departments within their companies. Only few companies are successful in this
regard, but still unable to use the full potential of IE. Therefore, it is proposed to establish and/or
strengthen industrial engineering departments in the companies and in plant arrangements for the
training of technical personnel are required in order to implement the IE techniques more
effectively. Moreover, master trainers on IE should be developed from foreign institutions.
Suggested techniques to implement are work study, method study and line balancing.
4.3.6.2 Investment on Technology Department:
Technology development is another aspect of competitive advantage among the companies. Most
of the companies in the dyeing & garment sector do not support technology development and
their process designs are weak or less productive than their competitors in the global market.
Some of the large companies have invested a lot of money to recruit experienced people and
consultants to develop their process designs, including the usage of computer software and high
tech machines like Garment Gerber Technology (GGT) and computerize hanger system in
garment sector. The result is that they are surviving in the global markets. Our garment industry,
at large should focus on their Research &Development capabilities and activities in order to
develop their technology and to be competitive.
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4.3.6.3 Efficient Layout Planning:
The efficiency of a factory highly depends on its plant layout. During this study, it was observed
that garment factories have inefficient plant layout. In fact, the inefficient layout leads to
increased lead-time, throughput time, WIP etc. making the working conditions undesirable and
consequently increasing the cost per unit.
The plant layout plays a vital role in the manufacturing cycle; therefore it should be given
outstanding importance for better productivity. In order to make the efficient plant layouts, a
company has to analyze the process flows, time frames, motion, bottlenecks, speedy/slow
workers, passage ways, etc.
4.3.6.4 Improvements in ergonomics:
Examples of bad ergonomics are given in the figure 4.3.
Figure 4.3 Bad Ergonomic
If operator feels better, works better. Factories are still ignoring this important aspect of low/high
productivity. The uncomfortable workstations cause pain, lack of sensation, or uncomfortable in
the shoulders, neck, back and hands, eventually affecting the productivity of sewing machine
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operators. Sewing forces you to hold your body in one position for long periods. If it is an
uncomfortable position, pain and injury can result. Your position is determined by the fit of your
chair and foot control, you are needed to see the work, and you are needed to grasp or hold
materials in place.
Repeated or forceful motions (like reaching, stitching, pinching, pulling hundreds of times a day)
can cause small injuries to muscles and joints. Long work hours and few breaks mean less time
for muscles and joint injuries to heal. If the edge of your chair, worktable or table legs press into
your body for long periods, it can damage nerves or other soft body parts. We can achieve better
efficiency and high productivity & quality by conducting Ergonomic studies and consequently
providing the good & efficient workstation to operators.
Employers should get durable industrial chair that have adjustable seat height, padded seats,
rotate bases with five legs (not four) and padded adjustable backrest. Foot supports are an
important part of the seated workstation. Employers may need a mechanic to adjust, install, or
build up foot support in the right position for each worker (height, forward/back and left/right).
Every operator should adjust their equipment according to its body ergonomics for better
productivity and also to prevent injuries.
Figure 4.4 Good Ergonomic
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4.3.6.5 Machine Safety:
Machines in garment factories need to have safety guards in order to prevent serious injuries to
workers. In particular, make sure that sewing machines have needle and belt guards installed.
Make sure that all machines have appropriate safety guards installed. Needle guards must be well
maintained and replaced regularly to prevent workers from removing them. Regularly provide
workers with training on machine handling and good safety practices.
It reduces accidents and associated costs. It increases productivity because fewer accidents mean
increased production time. It enhances awareness of workplace safety. It may improve work
satisfaction and workplace performance. Workers understand that the employer cares about their
safety, and are then more motivated. Workshop staff can use metal sheets (or clear hard plastic
sheets) to build safety guards. Implement an on-going safety training program for all workers.
Ensure that workers are aware of how dangerous unguarded machines can be, and tell them not
to remove guards.
4.3.6.6 Personal Protective Equipment:
The type of PPE needed varies depending on the hazards of the work being performed. PPE
should be used only as a last option; after all other measures to improve safety have been taken.
Provide chainmail (metal mesh) gloves to workers using cutting equipment to protect them from
finger injuries, and make sure that gloves are available for left-handed workers. Provide suitable
dust masks to workers (e.g. cutters) to protect them from breathing in chemical dust. Old or worn
out PPE does not protect workers: Make sure that PPE is in good condition and always replace it
when needed or after manufacturer’s recommended period of use expires.
It reduces risk of accident and illness. It minimizes future medical costs. It ensures safer working
environment. Purchase the best available PPE, not the cheapest. Good quality PPE lasts longer
and protects better. Provide training to demonstrate how to use PPE properly. Provide ongoing
training to educate workers on their specific workplace risks and the benefits of using PPE in
workplaces. Ensure workers wear appropriate PPE whenever necessary. Put up appropriate signs
near relevant workstations.
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4.3.6.7 Lean Manufacturing Tools and Techniques:
Lean Manufacturing is a comprehensive set of techniques which when combined allows you to
reduce and eliminate the wastes. This will make the company leaner, more flexible and more
responsive by reducing waste. Lean is the systematic approach to identifying and eliminating
waste through continuous improvement by flowing the product or service at the pull of your
customer in pursuit of perfection.
A lean operating system follows certain principles to deliver value to the customer while
minimizing all forms of loss. Each value stream within the operating system must be optimized
individually from end to end. Lean tools and techniques are applied selectively to eliminate the
three sources of loss: waste, variability and inflexibility. Thus the organization who wants to
implement lean should have strong customer focus, should be willing to remove wastes from the
processes they operate on daily basis and should have the motivation of growth and survival.
The major five principles of Lean are as follows.
Principle 1: Accurately specify value from customer perspective for both products and services.
Principle 2: Identify the value stream for products and services and remove non-value-adding
Waste along the value stream.
Principle 3: Make the product and services flow without interruption across the value stream.
Principle 4: Authorize production of products and services based on the “pull” by the customer.
Principle 5: Struggle for perfection by constantly removing layers of waste.
Different kinds of wastes in a process can be categorized in following categories. These wastes
reduce production efficiency, quality of work as well as increase production lead time.
 Overproduction: Producing items more than required at given point of time i.e. producing
items without actual orders creating the excess of inventories which needs excess staffs,
storage area as well as transportation etc.
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 Waiting: Workers waiting for raw material, the machine or information etc. is known as
waiting and is the waste of productive time. The waiting can occur in various ways for
example; due to unmatched worker/machine performance, machine breakdowns, lack of
work knowledge, stock outs etc.
 Unnecessary Transport: Carrying of work in process (WIP) a long distance, insufficient
transport, moving material from one place to another place is known as the unnecessary
transport.
 Over processing: Working on a product more than the actual requirements is termed as
over processing. The over processing may be due to improper tools or improper
procedures etc. The over processing is the waste of time and machines which does not
add any value to the final product.
 Excess Raw Material: This includes excess raw material, WIP, or finished goods causing
longer lead times, uselessness, damaged goods, transportation and storage costs, and
delay. Also, the inventory hides problems such as production imbalances, late deliveries
from suppliers, defects, equipment downtime, and long setup times.
 Unnecessary Movement: Any wasted motion that the workers have to perform during
their work is termed as unnecessary movement. For example, movement during searching
for tools, shifting WIP etc.
 Defects: Defects in the processed parts is termed as waste. Repairing defective parts or
producing defective parts or replacing the parts due to poor quality etc. is the waste of
time and effort.
 Unused Employee Creativity: Loosing of getting better ideas, improvement, skills and
learning opportunities by avoiding the presence of employee is termed as unused
employee creativity.
 There are numbers of lean manufacturing tools which, when used in proper ways will
give the best results. Once the source of the waste is identified it is easier to use the
suitable lean tool to reduce or eliminate them and try to make waste free systems.
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4.3.6.8 Cellular Manufacturing:
A cell is a combination of people, equipment and workstations organized in the order of process
to flow, to manufacture all or part of a production unit. Following are the characteristics of
effective cellular manufacturing practice.
 Should have one-piece or very small lot of flow.

 The equipment should be very specific for the cell operations. Is usually arranged in a C
or U shape so the incoming raw materials and outgoing finished goods are easily
monitored.
 Should have cross-trained people within the cell for flexibility of operation. Generally the
cell is arranged in C or U shape and covers less space than the long assembly lines. There
are lots of benefits of cellular manufacturing over long assembly lines. Some of them are
as follows:
 Reduced work in process inventory because the work cell is set up to provide a balanced
flow from machine to machine.
 Reduced direct labor cost because of improved communication between employees,
better material flow, and improved scheduling.
 High employee participation is achieved due to added responsibility of product quality
monitored by themselves rather than separate quality persons.
 Increased use of equipment and machinery, because of better scheduling and faster
material flow.
 Allows the company higher degrees of flexibility to accommodate changes in customer
demand.
 Promotes continuous improvement as problems are exposed to surface due to low WIP
and better communication.
 Reduces throughput time and increases velocity for customer orders from order receipt
through production and shipment.
 Enhances the employee’s productive capability through multi-skilled multi-machine
operators.
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 Apart from these tangible benefits, there is the very important advantage of cellular
manufacturing over the linear flow model. Due to the closed loop arrangement of
machines, the operators inside the cell are familiar with each other’s operations and they
understand each other better. This improves the relation between the operators and helps
to improve productivity. Whereas in long assembly line one operator knows only two
operators (before and after his operation in the line) it seems that operators are working
independently in the line.
4.3.6.9 Continuous Improvement:
Continuous improvement can be defined as the planned, organized and systematic process of
ongoing, incremental and company-wide change of existing practices aimed at improving
company performance. Exam: Shewart PDCA Cycle (Plan, Do, Check, and Act).
Plan: Identify an opportunity and plan for change.
Do: Implement the change on a small scale.
Check: Use data to analyze the results of the change and determine whether it made a difference.
Act: If the change was successful, implement it on a wider scale and continuously assess the
Results. If the change did not work, begin the cycle again.
These are the four steps of Shewart Cycle.
Thus continuous improvement is an ongoing and never ending process; it measures only the
achievements gained from the application of one process over the existing. So while selecting the
continuous improvement plan one should concentrate on the area which needs more attention
and which adds more value to our products. There are seven different kinds of continuous
improvement tools they can be described as follows. The use of these tools varies from case to
case depending on the requirement of the process to be monitored.
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 Pareto Chart
Pareto diagram helps to identify the big problems in a process. The Pareto diagram is a graphical
overview of the process problems, in ranking order from the most frequent, down to the least
frequent, in descending order from left to right. Thus, the Pareto diagram illustrates the
frequency of fault types. Using a Pareto, one can decide which fault is the most serious or most
frequent offender as shown in figure 4.5.
This basic principle translates well into quality problems - most quality problems result from a
small number of causes.
Figure 4.5 Pareto Diagram
 Cause and effect diagram (Fish Diagram):
Cause and effect diagrams help to get to the root cause of problems as shown in figure 4.6.
Figure 4.6 Cause & Effect Diagram
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 Check Sheet:
A check sheet is a structured, prepared form for collecting and analyzing data. This is a generic
tool that can be adapted for a wide variety of purposes. Check sheets look at how often a
problem occurs as shown in figure 4.7.
Figure 4.7 Check Sheet
 Histogram:
It is a graph of variable data providing a pictorial view of the distribution of data around a
desired target value. Histograms monitor variation as shown in figure 4.8.
Figure 4.8 Histogram
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 Stratification:
It is a method of sorting data to identify whether defects are the result of a special cause, such as
an individual employee or specific machine as shown in figure 4.9.
Figure 4.9 Stratification
 Scatter Diagram:
A graph used to display the effect of changes in one input variable on the output of an operation.
Scatter charts demonstrate relationships between varieties of factors as shown in figure 4.10.
Figure 4.10 Scatter Diagram
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 Process Control Charts:
A graph that tracks the performance of an operation over time, usually used to monitor the
effectiveness of improvement programs.
A control chart helps to determine what variations to focus upon as shown in figure 4.11.
Figure 4.11 Process Control Chart
4.3.6.10 Method Study:
Method study focuses on how a task can (should) be accomplished. Whether controlling a
machine or making or assembling components, how a task is done makes a difference in
performance, safety, and quality. Using knowledge from ergonomics and methods analysis,
methods engineers are charged with ensuring quality and quantity standards are achieved
efficiently and safely. Methods analysis and related techniques are useful in office environments
as well as in the factory.
The basic procedure consists of six steps (SREDIM):
1) SELECT the work or area to be studied.

2) Define objectives
3) RECORD all appropriate and relevant data about the current situation.
4) EXAMINE critically, the recorded data.
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5) DEVELOP alternative approaches to making improvements and choose the most
appropriate.
6) INSTALL the new method, to make the required changes to the situation.
7) MAINTAIN that new situation.
4.3.6.11 Time Study:
The classical stopwatch study, or time study, originally proposed by Frederic W. Taylor in 1881,
is still the most widely used time study method. The time study procedure involves the timing of
a sample of worker’s performance and using it to set a standard. A trained and experienced
person can establish a standard by following steps.
Step 1: Define objective of the study. This involves statement of the use of the result, the
precision desired, and the required level of confidence in the estimated time standards.
Step 2: Verify that the standard method and conditions exist for the operation and the operator is
properly trained. If need is felt for method study or further training of operator, the same may be
completed before starting the time study.
Step 3: Select operator to be studied if there are more than one operator doing the same task.
Step 4: Record information about the standard method, operation, operator, product, equipment,
and conditions on the Time Study observation sheet.
Step 5: Divide the operation into reasonably small elements, and record them on the Time Study
observation sheet.
Step 6: Time the operator for each of the elements. Record the data for a few cycles on the Time
Study observation sheet. Use the data to estimate the total number of observations to be taken.
Step 7: Collect and record the data of required number of cycles by timing and rating the
operator.
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Step 8: Calculate the Average Single Cycle Time or Observed time (ASCT) for each element of
operation. Multiply it by the rating factor to get Basic Minute (Normal Time). (Basic Minute =
ASCT X Rating %)
Step 9: Determine allowances for fatigue and various delays.
Step 10: Determine standard time of operation by using the following formula.
SAM = B.M (1+ PF%+ MD %) + BHT (Eq. 4.1)
Where, SAM = Standard Allowed Minutes, PF% = Personal Fatigue, MD% = Machine Delay
BHT = Bundle Handling Time (if any, normally 0.03minutes)
4.3.6.12 Layout Design:
Layout is one of the key decisions that determine the long-run efficiency of operations. Layout
has numerous strategic implications because it establishes an organization’s competitive
priorities in regard to the capacity, processes, flexibility and cost as well as quality of work life,
customer contact and image. An effective layout can help an organization to achieve a strategy
that supports differentiation, low cost, or response.
The layout must consider how to achieve the following:
1) Higher utilization of space, equipment, and people.

2) Improved flow of information, material or people.
3) Improved employee morale and safer working conditions.
4) Improved customer/client interaction.
5) Flexibility (whatever the layout is now, it will need to change).
4.3.6.13 Types of Layout:
Layout decision includes the best placement of machines (in production settings), offices and
desks (in office settings) or service center (in setting such as hospitals or department stores). An
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effective layout facilitates the flow of materials, people, and information within and between
areas. There are various kinds of layouts. Some of them are as follows:
 Fixed Position Layout:
It addresses the layout requirements of large, bulky projects such as ships and buildings
(concerns the movement of material to the limited storage areas around the site).
 Process Oriented Layout:
It deals with low volume, high variety production (also called ‘job shop’ or intermittent
production). It can manage varied material flow for each product.
 Office Layout:
It fixes workers positions, their equipment, and spaces (offices) to provide for movement of
information (locate workers requiring frequent contact close to one another).
 Retail Layout:
It allocates shelf space and responds to customer behavior (expose customer to high margin
items).
 Warehouse Layout:
It addresses tradeoffs between space and material handlings (balance low cost storage with low
cost material handling).
 Product oriented layouts:
It seeks the best personnel and machine utilization in repetitive or continuous production
(equalize the task time at each workstation).
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4.3.6.14 Assembly Line Balancing:
The production rate is indicated as cycle time to produce one unit of the product, the optimum
utilization of work force depends on the basis of output types. The actual output of the individual
may be different from the output norms. The time to operate the system, hence, keeps varying. It
is, therefore, necessary to group certain activities to workstations to the tune of maximum of
cycle time at each work station. The assembly line needs to balance so that there is minimum
waiting of the line due to different operation time at each workstation. The sequencing is
therefore, not only the allocation of men and machines to operating activities, but also the
optimal utilization of facilities by the proper balancing of the assembly line.
4.3.7 Recommendations for Training Programs:
Only installing automation and the latest machinery hardware does not guarantee productivity
improvement, but training has its own importance for improvement even with existing
infrastructure. Therefore, the basic recommendation for improving the overall performance of
the garment industry is to implement training / capacity building programs (especially focusing
the soft skills) for management, technical management, supervision and workers. Top managerial
personnel should be trained both at company premises and at the international business schools
in administration, finance, marketing and production.
4.3.7.1 Executive Training:
Technical managers receive training almost exclusively from textile institutes/colleges. In plant
arrangements for training of technical personnel are required in the modern scientific
management control methods. In the vast majority of textile mills, supervisors receive no formal
training whatsoever. Arrangements for training of supervisors should be provided.
Formal training programs for the training of workers inside the mills are generally non-existent.
Workers are habituated to low quality and low productivity in general. These habits can be
changed only by training so that workers are able to develop the habit of obtaining guidance and
assistance of qualified professionals. Management usually invests on machinery, but the people
who run that machinery are the most important to be trained to make them understand about the
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machinery: operation and routine maintenance. This would improve the reliability and efficiency
of the machine and operator as well.
4.3.7.2 Employee Training:
The highest priority is to train middle management such as line supervisors and industrial
engineering personnel. As garment industry is a labor intensive industry and labor wage directly
impact the total cost of the business, therefore the middle management have the greatest effect on
the efficiency of the plant.
It is crucial that all new employees are properly oriented to their new working environment and
understand their rights and responsibilities. This can ultimately help to reduce potential industrial
disputes, improve understanding and communication between management and workers and
promote higher productivity for the enterprise. Management can use the training materials from
other best factories to support their own orientation process to educate new workers on their
rights and responsibilities when they are newly employed in the factory.
HR managers should hold induction sessions regularly to ensure that new workers are properly
inducted and aware of their workplace rights and responsibilities. Enterprise HR
managers/trainers with induction responsibilities should participate in Better Work training
sessions so that they clearly understand how to use the materials. Workers better understand their
rights and responsibilities. It helps to build mutual understanding between management and
workers. It helps to build trust and good workplace cooperation. It helps to reduce industrial
dispute, leading to higher productivity.
Hold regular induction training programs and ensure that all new workers are properly inducted.
Designate proper facilities (training rooms) to run the induction training and other training
activities as shown in figure 4.12.
4.3.7.3 Objectives of training:
 To provide comprehensive framework for the overall development of people in

organization.
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 Develop a constructive mind and overall personality of each and every person in
organization.
 Maintain high level of motivation for employees in company.
Figure 4.12 an arranged Training Program
4.3.8 Recommendations for Quality Production:
As we know that production is the back bone of the organization which develops its status. If any
organization intends to maintain production level then that survival chances of that organization
are high in the market. Following are the recommendations for production department of an
Apparel industry.
4.3.8.1 Quality Management:
Mostly top management has concerns on quality; and the emphasis is on quality control staff of
customers and strong inspection control of the production lines and the finished goods. But this
is not the end; today the concept of quality is more challenging and demanding. It requires a lot
more effort than in the past days. It requires implementing different standards such as ISO 9000,
and ISO 14000 in order to be competitive in the global market.
It also requires the modern concepts of TQM and Kaizen Management in order to continuous
improvement apart from observing the standards. Adoption of an Integrated Management System
is necessary in this context. It needs strong management commitment and dedication of the staff
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to achieve quality; quality workforce, quality skills, quality environment, quality team
management, quality leadership, quality documentation, quality control, etc. All this can be
achieved through training of existing personnel, master trainers/consultants, strong and focused
planning and a visionary & committed leadership.
4.3.8.2 Materials Handling in the Production Line:
A more efficient workplace is more profitable. Introducing tools or systems which make the
production line more efficient is often very cost effective. Simple measures which improve the
efficiency of the production line include using wheel carts and hanging-rails on wheels. Use line
pick-up trays to feed garment bundles into the production line. Use movable wheel carts to
transport materials to the workstation. Use hanging-rails on wheels to prevent crumpling of
ready-to-deliver products and make transportation of finished items safer. It reduces the amount
of time spent on materials handling. It improves product quality. It reduces the amount of storage
space needed for finished goods and materials. Trays and hangers can be found locally in
commercial markets.
4.3.8.3 Quality Control Workstation Designs:
Because quality control is very important in garment manufacturing, the quality control
workstation must be well designed. A poorly designed workstation may lead to poor quality
work and the reputation of the factory can suffer. When designing the workstation, provide good
lighting, clear work instructions, and all necessary tools. Ensure that there is good clear lighting,
but that it does not shine directly into the worker's eyes. Provide clear work instructions in the
worker's language and illustrated with pictures as necessary. A measuring tape can be fixed to
the table to help when checking garment sizes. This measure can be permanently chair with a
backrest can greatly improve the posture of seated workers.
It increases quality and productivity. It reduces worker tiredness and errors. It makes easier to
control quality when new products are introduced. Ensures that workers are given clear
instructions and understand what is expected. Have factory staff build quality control
workstations using plain white board. Install suitable lighting. Provide clear marked to indicate
garment sizes. Materials and tools that are used more often should be located closer to the
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employee. Ensure that the worker is comfortable and has correct posture. Adjustable, written
and illustrated instructions should provide to ensure quality work. Ensure that table is stable.
Provide leg space for easy leg movement. Provide a footrest, especially for seated workers.
4.3.8.4 Just in Time:
Just in time is an integrated set of activities designed to achieve high volume production using
the minimal inventories of raw materials, work in process and finished goods. Just in time is also
based on the logic that nothing will be produced until it is needed. Just-in-time manufacturing is
a Japanese management philosophy applied in manufacturing. It involves having the right items
with the right quality and quantity in the right place at the right time.
The ability to manage inventory (which often accounts for as much as 80 percent of product cost)
to coincide with market demand or changing product specifications can substantially boost
profits and improve a manufacturer’s competitive position by reducing inventories and waste. In
general, Just in Time (JIT) helps to optimize company resources like capital, equipment, and
labor. The goal of JIT is the total elimination of waste in the manufacturing process. Although
JIT system is applied mostly to manufacturing environment, the concepts are not limited to this
area of business only. The philosophy of JIT is a continuous improvement that puts emphasis on
prevention rather than correction, and demands a companywide focus on quality.
The requirement of JIT is that equipment, resources and labor are made available only in the
amount required and at the time required to do the work. It is based on producing only the
necessary units in the necessary quantities at the necessary time by bringing production rates
exactly in line with market demand. In short, JIT means making what the market wants, when it
wants, by using a minimum of facilities, equipment, materials, and human resources.
JIT principles are based on the following:
1) It is commonly used to describe the stockless production manufacturing approach, where

only the right parts are completed at the right time.
2) It is not a destination but a journey.
3) Reducing inventory, improving quality and controlling cost.
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4) A “Pull System” where the parts are produced only when they are required.
4.3.8.5 Pull and Push System:
In push system, when work is finished at a workstation, the output is pushed to the next station;
or, in the case of the final operation, it is pushed on to the final inventory. In this system, work is
pushed on as it is completed, with no regard for whether the next station is ready for the work or
not. In this way, the WIP is unbalanced in all operations throughout the shop floor. The push
system is also known as the Materials Requirements Planning (MRP) system.
This system is based on the planning department setting up a long-term production schedule,
which is then dissected to give a detailed schedule for making or buying parts. This detailed
schedule then pushes the production people to make a part and push it forward to the next
station. The major weakness of this system is that it relies on guessing the future customer
demand to develop the schedule that production is based on and guessing the time it takes to
produce each part.
Overestimation and underestimation may lead to excess inventory or part shortages, respectively.
Whereas in pull system; each work station pulls the output from the preceding station as it is
needed. Output from the final operation is pulled by customer demand or the master schedule.
Thus in pull system work is moved in response to demand from next stage in the process. The
Kanban system is used to monitor the effective pull process.
4.3.8.6 Work Standardization:
A very important principle of waste reduction is the standardization of work. Standardized work
basically ensures that each job is organized and carried out in the same manner; irrespective of
the people working on it. In this way if the work is standardized the same quality output will be
received even if the worker is changed in process.
Like: if we talk about the Toyota, every worker follows the same processing steps all the time.
This includes the time needed to finish a job, the order of steps to follow for each job, and the
parts on hand. By doing this one ensures that line balancing is achieved, unwanted work in
process, inventory is minimized and non-value added activities are reduced.
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4.3.8.7 Labor Standards and Work Measurements:
Effective operations management requires meaningful standards that can help a firm to
determine the following:
1) Amount of labor contribution for any product (the labor cost).

2) Staffing needs (how many people it will take to meet required production).
3) Cost and time estimates prior to production (to assist in a variety of decisions, from cost
estimates to make or buy decisions).
4) Crew size and work balance (who does what in a group activity or on an assembly line).
5) Expected production (both manager and worker know what constitutes a fair day’s work).
6) Basis of wage-incentive plan (what provides a reasonable incentive).
7) Employees efficiency and supervision (a standard is necessary to determine efficiency).
8) Properly set labor standards represent the amount of time that it should take an average
employee to perform specific job activities under normal working conditions. The labor
standards are set in by historical experience, time studies, predetermined time standards
and work sampling.
4.3.9 Recommendations for Material Management:
Material management is the department which helps to save your time and money. Selection,
Rejection and Inventory of the material are the factors which require attention. Following are the
recommendations for material management to recover the deficiencies;
4.3.9.1 Inventory Control:
Missing of the raw material is also the major cause of high cost. It is observed that in garment
factories there is no proper system for controlling the inventory. Due to which raw materials are
lost about 5% in every month particularly small items such as label, snap, zipper, etc. Moreover
many errors and omission were observed in the records for stock, which is undesirable (a crime)
in any industry. Efforts are required to be put on adopting an effective and efficient inventory
management system based on the new tools and techniques widespread especially in the garment
sector. This can also be rectified by hiring of consultants on inventory management systems.
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Suggested techniques to improve are to implement Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) and
Material Resource Planning (MRP) programs.
4.3.9.2 Proper Storage:
Storage is an integral part of any industry. It is the place where we place / store items for certain
period of time and use on when and where necessary basis. The inventory on the other hand is
the list / register of those items. Mostly in the Pakistani garment factories, the people do not have
the knowhow of how to store the items. They do not have the proper concept of inventory
management; instead they are just maintaining registers. Inventory levels are not defined and
sometimes they wait for the item to be purchased from the market. Similarly, the placing of items
is also not proper, and if one has to find a certain item, he / she has to spend time in searching for
that particular item.
Also, in garment companies we find things that probably should not be in the store or not
required / needed (for example old fabric, old accessories & machines, raw material, finished
goods, etc.), thus incurring extra cost. It is required to improve the storage designs keeping in
mind the first in first out (FIFO) rule, space utilization, identification & traceability, ease of
search & access and handling of items. It is also required to put due emphasis on stores, which is
a neglected department garment industry.
It is also important to dispose of the items that are not necessary in order to effectively utilize the
money. Some of the factories are also facing the problem of insufficient space for storage, which
may be addressed by hiring extra storage space (where needed). However, the recommendation
is to adopt just in time concept in the factories so that the industrialists may not require big
storage rather they try to streamline their supply chains and minimize the inventory.
4.3.9.3 Maximum Utilization of Raw Material:
Shortage of raw material is the result of poor supply chain management system. Improving
supply chain would solve this problem. Many garment businesses misunderstand that labor cost
is the most important item to control cost and do not concentrate to control cost of raw materials
in particular fabric. This kind of thinking can lead them to high cost, therefore, the management
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should have to implement fabric utilization project by using computer program, hire consultant,
training employee, and establish fabric utilization.
4.3.9.4 Fabric Storage:
The quality of a finished garment is dependent on the quality of the fabric used. Fabric should be
kept in good condition and be consistent in appearance. A good storage system keeps the fabric
in an ideal environment and tracks details of the fabric used in production. Always store fabric
on a rack or shelf, and do not store on the floor. Identify and store the fabric by roll, width, batch,
style, lot and color.
Use a bin card system to update the stock balance. Store the fabric lying down, not standing up.
Keep a record of which fabric rolls were used in the production of garments so that quality
problems can be identified easily. Have rolling carts available for moving fabric between storage
and production. Costs are reduced because fabric is less likely to be damaged. It prevents
possible loss of costly material. Garments are produced from the same fabric batch, which
ensures consistency of color and fabric quality.
It increases productivity by reducing the amount of time needed to look for fabric. It makes it
easier to do a stock-take. Factory floor is kept clear, reducing risk of accidents and increasing
work space. Ensure that there are sufficient racks to store all fabric lying down, off the floor. Use
multilevel shelving to increase storage capacity. Implement better record-keeping procedures to
keep track of fabric. Make sure that the factory store manager and staff are taking responsibility
for storing, distributing and tracking fabric usage.
4.3.9.5 Proper Storage of Tools, Parts and Equipment:
To ensure that tools and equipment remain in good condition and last for a long time, store them
properly. Properly stored tools and equipment will be easy to find when needed and are less
likely to be lost. Parts should be properly stored and labeled. Tools should be properly labeled
and placed on the board. Consider drawing the shapes of the tools on the board so that they
always get put back in the same position. Use bins for storing small parts. Avoid storing things
on the floor to increase space.
88
Consider making an individual (or individuals) responsible for the good maintenance of tools
and parts. Make sure that mechanics have the tools they need to accomplish their work, and
make sure they understand the organization system. Tools and parts are kept in good condition
and are easy to find. Costs are reduced. Productivity is increased because time is not lost looking
for tools, parts and equipment. Workshop staff develops a sense of responsibility and pride in
their work. Workshop staff identifies tools, parts and equipment. Workshop staff develops a
system for labeling and storing tools, parts and equipment. Maintain order in the mechanical
room by establishing criteria for performance review.
4.3.9.6 Rubbish/Waste Collection:
A clean workplace can help to achieve better productivity and protects worker's health and
safety. Factories should establish systems to make sure that waste is continuously cleared up and
that the workplace is kept safe, healthy and hygienic at all times. Use rubbish bins to collect
waste in the factory. Sewing machine scraps can be collected directly into a bin below the
sewing-table. Make a hole in the sewing table and connect it to a bin below with an adjustable
slide. Designate specific rubbish bins to individual machines. Post signs to show where rubbish
bins are located.
It improves productivity. It promotes good health and safety practices amongst workers. It
develops good housekeeping habits. Helps to eliminate waste and workers take pride in
cleanliness of factory. Use baskets/bins where appropriate in all working areas. Encourage
workers to develop good habits even during busy periods. Encourage workers to always keep the
workplace clean.
4.3.9.7 Stock Control of the Garment Trims Store:
Classify and label all old and current stock. If stock is not used, get rid of it. Label the trims and
classify them by item type. Use and display bin cards for all fabrics. Bin cards also make it easier
when ordering and conducting stock-take.
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Figure 4.14 Stock Labeling
Keep track of which stock was used in which production run and the date it was used. Increases
productivity by reducing the amount of time needed to search for fabric and conduct stock-take.
Reduces costs by preventing unnecessary ordering. Reduces costs by decreasing the risk of stock
being damaged by being stored poorly or stolen. It makes inventory ordering quicker and easier.
It makes it possible to produce garments from the same fabric batch which ensures consistency
of color and fabric quality. Train staff to understand the labeling process. Ensure that labeling is
consistent as shown in figure 4.14.
4.3.9.8 Store Organization:
Build a racking-system and put boards at both ends of each Rack for identification. Use a logical
identification system for organizing the racks. For example, put numbers, letters (or a
combination) on each row. Put frequently used stock in easily accessible locations. Attach a 'bin
card' to each fabric roll. A bin card is used to record the balance of the fabric. Invest in high
quality ladders. They will save time and protect the welfare of your staff.
Teach workers how the storage system works, and train them on the usage of ladders, forklifts
and machine safety. It improves productivity. It reduces risk of materials being damaged, lost or
stolen. It presents a positive image of the factory. It reduces the risk of over-ordering materials.
Stock-take is quicker and more efficient. It ensures a safer workplace. Store staff can design or
90
build. High quality racking systems can be purchased and fitted to your store as shown in figure
4.15.
Figure 4.15Organized Store
4.3.9.9 Store Room Safety: Stack Height:
To make the factory safer and more productive, storage areas need to be efficiently and safely
organized. Make sure that all boxes and materials are properly stacked and that the height of
stacks is restricted and monitored. Mark the maximum stack height using wooden guide poles.
Or, paint red lines on the wall to indicate safe stacking height. Regularly check that boxes are
stacked tidily and boxes or materials are not stacked above the marked height. Never stack in
front of emergency exits or in front of windows or electrical panels. It improves the image of
workplace. It creates a safer workplace. It reduces workplace accidents. It enhances awareness of
safe practices. It improves the efficiency of the storeroom. Use pieces of wood as markers; or
Paint a line to show the maximum stack height. Stack materials and boxes in areas that do not
obstruct airflow or movement within the factory as shown in figure 4.16.
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Figure 4.16 Stack Height
4.3.10 Recommendations for Maintenance Management:
"Prevention is better than cure" is a well-known proverb which indicates that if you maintain
your machines, techniques etc. properly than you can save your rework time and money.
Following are the recommendations for maintenance management for any Apparel industry;
4.3.10.1 Machine Maintenance:
Good machine maintenance is an investment in productivity. Well maintained machines are

more reliable, safer and last longer. Basic maintenance is not expensive and can often be done by
workers. Workers should be taught simple machine maintenance skills such as machine cleaning,
adjusting thread tension, changing broken needles, bobbin changes and emptying the dust filter.
Clean machines as often as possible to reduce the risk of dust damaging machinery. Using a
vacuum is recommended so that dirt can be removed. Regularly clean or replace the sewing
machine vacuum filter.
Cover machines during lunch breaks and when they are not in use. Post maintenance information
and maintenance schedules directly onto machines. It reduces maintenance costs. It reduces risk
of machine breakdown. It improves productivity. It ensures safer working environment. Making
machine covers reduces maintenance costs of machines. Purchase an industrial vacuum cleaner.
The investment now will save future machine maintenance costs. Use scraps to make covers for
machines when not in use. Schedule a maintenance routine for all machines. Develop on-the-job
training sessions where senior operators instruct newer employees how to properly clean
machines. Ask manufacturers for advice regarding machine maintenance.
4.3.10.2 Total Productive Maintenance:
Machine breakdown is one of the major headaches for people related to production. The
reliability of the equipment on the shop floor is very important because if any one of the
machines is down the entire shop floor productivity may be nil. The tool that takes care of these
sudden breakdowns and awakes maintenance as well as production workers to minimize these
unplanned breakdowns is called total productive maintenance. Total Productive Maintenance
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(TPM) is a maintenance program, which involves a newly defined concept for maintaining plants
and equipment. The goal of the TPM program is to increase production, increase employee
morale and job satisfaction.
TPM is set of tools, which when implemented in an organization as a whole gives the best
utilization of machines with least disruption of production. The set of tools are called pillars of
TPM.
 5S Techniques:
The first pillar of TPM is called 5S, which organize and cleans work place; this helps to
make problems visible and attracts the attentions of everyone. Brief description of 5S elements
are as follows:
Sort: The first step in making things cleaned up & organized.
Set in Order: Organize, identify and arrange everything in a work area.
Shine: Regular cleaning and maintenance.
Standardize: Make it easy to maintain, simplify and standardize.
Sustain: Maintain what has been achieved.
 Autonomous maintenance:
This is about the involvement of production workers in the day to day general
maintenance of machines like cleaning, lubricating etc. which saves the time of skilled
maintenance person at the same time the production workers are made more responsible to their
machines.
 Kaizen:
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Kaizen is for small improvements, but carried out on a continual basis and involve all
people in the organization. Kaizen requires no or little investment. The principle behind is that “a
very large number of small improvements are more effective in an organizational environment
than a few improvements of large value.” This pillar is aimed at reducing losses in the workplace
that affect our efficiencies.
 Planned Maintenance:
It addresses the proactive approach of maintenance activities. This involves four types of
maintenance namely preventive maintenance, breakdown maintenance, corrective maintenance,
and maintenance prevention.
 Quality Maintenance:
It is aimed towards customer delight through the highest quality and defect free
manufacturing. In this system, one has to take care of parts which affect product quality and try
to eliminate or modify them to give customer superior quality.
 Training:
Employees should be trained such that they can analyze the root cause of the problem.
General know how of the problem is not sufficient rather they should be able to know why the
problem is occurring and how to eliminate it. For this employee need continuous training,
ultimately; the entire employee should be multi-skilled and should solve the problem in their area
by themselves.
 Office TPM:
This tool is about increasing the efficiencies in office (administrative) activities. This tool
works the problems like communication issues, data retrieval processes, management
information systems, office equipment losses, up to date information about inventories etc.
 Safety Health and Environment:
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In this area, the focus is to create a safe workplace and a surrounding area that would not
be damaged by our process or procedures. This pillar will play an active role in each of the other
pillars on a regular basis. Safe work environment means accident free, fire less and it should not
damage the health of workers.
4.4 Utilization of the Results of the Study:
List of clearly identified problems will help manufacturers to recognize the problem in their
production system. Solution to these problems will help organizations to adopt relevant
operations management techniques to resolve the problems of production system. Problems of
the production system can be appraised by problem-Solution Chart. This chart can be set to
perform comparison of production system for different organizations, or for different periods in
one organization. Through the establishment of the chart, to some extent, the effectiveness of
production system can be quantified and compared. What’s more, this chart will be beneficial to
relevant researches too. Conceptual model of operations management system provides
production/ operations management model for Garment Manufacturing Production System.
4.5 Recommendation:
From the above mentioned research and study it has been recommended that ETON production
system is found best among other production systems with respect to time, inventory, labor,
quality, lead time and through put time.
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Chapter 5
Bibliography
Beyond. n.d. https://www.beyond.com/manufacturing/apparel/defined (accessed March 8, 2017).
Cline, Elizabeth L. Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion. New York:
Penguin, 2012.
Fredricsdotter, Linda, and Ingrid Stigzelius. "Implementation of SA8000 in Indian Garments

Manufacturing." MS Thesis, Banglore, 2006.
Gelb, Bernard A. Textile and Apparel Trade Issues. Congressional Research Service, 2007.
Laan, Herman van der. "Garment industry in South Asia." 2002.
Lee, Ms. Seung-Eun, Dr. Joseph C. Chen. "Mass-customization Methodologyfor an apparel

industry with a future." Journal of Industrial Technology, 2000: 1-8.
Mok, P. Y., T. Y. Cheung, W. K. Wong, S. Y. S. Leung, and J. T. Fan. "Intelligent production

planning for complex garment manufacturing." (Springer US) 2011.
Nuruzzaman, and Ahasanul Haque. Lead Time Management in the Garment Sector of.
EuroJournals Publishing, 2009.
Online Clothing Study. n.d. http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/09/garment-production-

systems.html (accessed Feburary 6, 2017).
Paneru, Naresh. "Implementation of Lean Manufacturing Tools in Garment manufacturing

process focusing seewing section of men's shirt." MS Thesis, 2011.
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Sarkar, Prasanta. Online Clothing Study. n.d.
http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2015/05/different-types-of-sewing-line-layout.html
(accessed March 22, 2017).
Singh, Raghir. "Problems of Indian Garment Exporters in the Light of Multi-fibre Arrangement
." Feburary 1, 2006.
Steele, Valerie. "Ready-to-Wear;" Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Charles Scribner's

Sons, 2005.
Stylios, George. "The principles of intelligent textile and garment manufacturing systems." 1996.
Varukolu, Venu. "TECHNOLOGY ADOPTION OF INDIAN GARMENT

MANUFACTURING FIRMS ." MS Thesis, Louisiana, 2007.
Vijayalakshmi, D. The Indian Textile Journal. March 2009.

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In the Name of Allah

The Most Gracious & the Most Merciful

Engr. Saeed Akhtar

Fahad Arshad (BET-FA13-015)

Fahad Farooq (BET-FA13-016)

M Awais Abdullah (BET-FA13-017)

Ahmad Faraz (BET-FA13-005)

Danial Munawar (BET-FA13-003)

Bachelor of Engineering in Textile

THE UNIVERSITY OF FAISALABAD

This modest effort is dedicated to our

The University Of Faisalabad, Faisalabad

1.1 Garments Manufacturing: .............................................................................................. 20

1.2 History of Ready-Made Garments: ................................................................................ 20

1.3 Mass Production & Sizing: ................................................................................................. 23

1.5 Background of the Study: ................................................................................................... 24

1.6 Conceptual Model of Production Systems:......................................................................... 25

2.1 Global Competition in the Garment Manufacturing: .......................................................... 26

2.2 Technology Adoption: ........................................................................................................ 26

2.3 Line Layout: ........................................................................................................................ 27

2.4 Types of Line Layout: ......................................................................................................... 27

2.4.3.1 Overhead material movement: .............................................................................. 28

2.4.3.2 Trolley for material transportation: ....................................................................... 29

2.4.3.3 Line having individual disposal basket: ................................................................ 29

2.4.4 Side by side machine layout: ....................................................................................... 29

2.4.5 U-shaped line layout: ................................................................................................... 30

2.4.6 Modular line layout: ..................................................................................................... 30

2.4.7 Machine layout in UPS system: ................................................................................... 31

2.5.1 Make Through System: ................................................................................................ 31

2.5.2 Progressive Bundle System: ........................................................................................ 32

2.5.3 Modular Production System: ....................................................................................... 32

2.5.4 Overhead Production System (UPS):........................................................................... 33

2.5.5 Section Production System: ......................................................................................... 34

2.6 Disadvantages of the Traditional Methods: ........................................................................ 34

2.7Underutilization of Latest Technology: ............................................................................... 35

2.8Use of Traditional Methods and Machinery: ....................................................................... 36

2.9 Need for Lean Manufacturing:............................................................................................ 36

2.10 Main Objectives of the Study: .......................................................................................... 37

Differential Analysis ..................................................................................................................... 38

3.1 Apparel Export: ................................................................................................................... 38

3.2 Apparel Industry Structure:................................................................................................. 38

3.3 Gender Split in Employment: ............................................................................................. 39

3.4 Competitiveness of Apparel Manufacturing in Pakistan: ................................................... 40

3.5 Wages and Salaries in Apparel Industry in Pakistan: ......................................................... 40

3.6 Comparative Wages and Productivity: ............................................................................... 40

3.7 Working Conditions in Apparel Industry: .......................................................................... 41

3.8 SCM in Pakistan: ................................................................................................................ 41

3.9 Issues at different Production Systems: .............................................................................. 43

3.9.1 Bundle Production System:.......................................................................................... 43

3.9.2 ETON System: ............................................................................................................. 43

3.10 Comparative Study of different Production Systems: ...................................................... 44

3.10.1 ETON System: ........................................................................................................... 44

3.10.2 Bundle System: .......................................................................................................... 45

3.10.3 Hanger and Trolley System: ...................................................................................... 45

3.11 Differential Analysis of BPS and ETON system: ............................................................. 47

3.12 Advantages and Disadvantages of BPS and UPS: ............................................................ 50

3.12.1 Bundle Production System:........................................................................................ 50

3.12.1.2 Disadvantages: .................................................................................................... 50

3.12.2 Unit Production System: ............................................................................................ 51

3.12.2.2 Disadvantages: .................................................................................................... 52

3.13 Problems Identified at BPS: .............................................................................................. 52

3.13.1 High Work In Process (WIP) and Rework: ............................................................... 52