COSMETICS
V.MANIMARAN
LECTURER
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS
SRM COLLEGE OF PHARMACY
GENERAL
• The skin of the infant and the adult differs both
histological and physiologically in many respects
• It is less hairy , thinner and less cornified in infants
• There is tendency towards peeling and flaking of
skin during first 3 weeks after birth
• Sebaceous glands are present in the newborn and
start functioning early.
• Sebaceous glands are present in the newborn
and start functioning early
• Being comparatively thin , skin of infant is
expected to be more permeable to topical
agents applied
• They are mainly concerned with keeping the
baby clear and comfortable
FUNCTIONAL
REQUIREMENTS OF
BABY PRODUCTS
• From the foregoing account it appears that most skin
problems in babies occur because of wrapping of
them in tightly fitting garments providing warm and
stagnant environment for growth bacteria
• From the functional point of view ,baby skin care
product should protect baby skin from hostile
environment by cleaning the skin thoroughly from
sebum , grime and excreta
• There is no dearth of expert opinions on the best
method of cleaning but many of them are
contradictory and confusing
• The types of products which are available for babies
are same as that for adults, e.g., soap, oils, lotions,
etc.
• Many formulations are tempted to include a
germicidal in baby skin products, common examples
being cetyl pyridinium chloride and benzethonium
chloride
BABY OIL
• Though there is some evidence that oils used
and greasy materials can, by occluding the
skin surface, predispose infants to prickly heat
,but surprisingly baby oil remains a popular
product
• In the formulations of baby oil , bland
vegetable oils like ground nut oil, lanolin
derivatives and some higher alcohols can be
used
• The most popular brands of baby oils contain
mineral oil of high purity without perfume or
a trace of perfume with solubilizer
• Formulae 1, 2 , 3 are examples of products
containing mineral oil only, vegetable oil and
mixture of mineral oil and vegetable oil.
FORMULA 1
mineral oil 100.00
FORMULA 2
Groundnut oil 100.00
Anti oxidant q.s.
FORMULA 3
Mineral oil 60.00
Groundnut oil 40.00
Anti oxidant q.s.
BABY CREAM AND LOTIONS
• Traditionally baby creams and lotions can be
prepared by using triethanolamine stearate ,
an anionic emulsifier .
• Formula 4 are examples of this type of
products
FORMULA 4
Mineral oil 25.0
Lanolin 1.5
Stearic acid 1.0
Triethanolamine 0.5
Stearyl alcohol 0.5
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Sodium alginate 0.3
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
• Non‐ionic emulsifiers based on sorbitol can
also be used in baby cream and lotions
• Formula 5 are examples of this type of
products
FORMULA 5
Mineral oil 35.0
Lanolin 1.5
Cetyl alcohol 1.0
Sorbitan oleate 2.0
Polysorbate80 5.0
Di‐methecone 5.0
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
• Polyoxyethylene sorbitan lanolin derivatives
are through to be fairly mild
• These have been used in baby products
• Formula 6 illustrates use of polyoxyethylene
sorbitan lanolin derivatives
FORMULA 6
Mineral oil 20.0
Stearic acid 10.0
Bees wax 3.0
Lanolin 1.0
PEG‐20 sorbitan lanolate 5.0
PEG‐40 sorbitan lanolate 1.0
Sorbitol 10.0
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
• Emulsifier based on sucrose esters of palmitate and
stearic acids are mild and non‐toxic
• These are avilable overseas under the trade name
“crodestas”
• Crodestas are admixtures of di‐ and tri‐esters of
sucrose
• Formula 7 illustrates a baby lotion and formula 8
illustrates a baby cream
FORMULA 7
Mineral oil 24.8
Crodesta F 70 3.0
Crodesta F 160 0.5
Hydroxy ethyl cellulose 0.2
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
formula 8
Mineral oil 32.0
Cetearyl alcohol 0.5
Petroleum jelly 5.0
Lanolin alcohol 1.0
Crodesta formula 110 3.0
Glycerin 2.5
Water to make 100.0
Preservatives q.s.
• Anti septic baby lotion and cream can be prepared
using cationic quaternary ammonium compounds
like pyridinium chloride
• Lotions and creams invariably contain small amount
of free fatty acids
• These free fatty acids will inactive cationic compound
on a molecular basis
• Thereafter an excess of quaternary compound is
required
• It may be calculated from acid value of the oily phase
BABY POWDER
• These powders are intended to make the infant feel
more comfortable and to help prevent skin rashes
that arise from or aggravated by excess moisture
• Main ingredients are stearates, colloidal clay starch
and talc
• These powders are usually only lightly perfumed and
not perfumed at all
• These powders are free from boric acid
In the absence of any reproducible
method of test for absence of grit the
following method may be used
• Take 20g sample of material in a beaker
• Remove by overflow under a carefully controlled
steady stream of water a larger portion of material
• The grit being heavier will remain in the beaker along
with some powder
• Test the residue in beaker by rubbing between the
finger and thumb for the presence of grit
• If grit is present then the given sample fails
the test and vice versa
• Baby powder shall be free from glit colouring
matter and may be buffered to control pH
Determination of matter
insoluble in boiling
water
PROCEDURE
• Weigh 1g of material(wet with rectified spirit)
• Add 200ml of water , boil , allow to settle
• Filter (gooch crucible)
• Wash the residue with water dry at 105±2◦ c
to aconstant mass
• Matter insoluble in boiling water present by
mass=M¹/M *100
• M¹=mass in ‘g’ of the residue
• M=mass in ‘g’ of material taken for test
DETERMINATION OF
FINENESS: 2.5(75),
0.5(150)
• PROCEDURE
• 10g of material placed in the specified 15
sieve
• Wash with slow stream of running tap water
• Dry the sieve containing residue on steam
bath
• Dry the residue to a constant mass at 105±2 c
• Material retained on the specified sieve
present by mass=M¹/M*100
• M¹=mass in ‘g’ of the residue retained on the
specified sieve
• M=mass in ‘g’ of the material taken for the
test
DETERMINATION OF PH
OF AQ.
SUSPENSION:5.5‐8.0
• 10g of material in 150ml beaker
• Add freshly boiled and cooled water stir well
• Determine the PH of suspension using PH
meter with in 5 mts
DETERMINATION OF
MOISTURE AND
VOLATILE MATTER:2.0
• PROCEDURE
• 5g of material dry in hot air oven at
temp:105±2 c to constant mass
• Moisture and volatile matter percent by
mass=M¹/M*100
TEST FOR ARSENIC:20
PROCEDURE
• 2g of sample incinerate about 2hrs for at 550 c
• Treat with mixture of 5ml conc sulphuric acid and add nitric
acid
• Take to fumes on hot plate cool and again take to fumes with
hydrofluoric acid
• Cool and dissolve in water upto 100ml
• From above take 50ml
• Carry out test for arsenic
• Using for comparision stain obtained with 0.002mg ofAS2O3
BABY SOAP
• Baby soap shall possess good cleaning and
lathering properties, is normally a mixture of
alkali salts of long‐chain fatty acids.
• Triglycerides for example tallow, palm oil and
coconut oil, provide the basic ‘fats’ from
which the fatty acid mixture used for soap are
derived
• The finished soap properties are primarily dependent on
the mixture and ratio of triglycerides used.
• Tallow , for example, gives a much harder soap than
coconut oil.
• Potassium soap are much softer than their sodium based
counterparts , although, in practice, they are rarely used.
• The finished soap bar can be modified by the addition of
other ingredients .
• Such as emollients opacifiers and chelating agent.
DETERMINATION OF
NICKEL: NILL
REAGENTS :NaoH, CONC. Hcl, dimethyl glyoxime soln, saturated bromine water.
PROCEDURE
ISOLATION OF METAL FROM SOAP
• 50g of soap dissolve in hot water
• Add 40ml of conc. Hcl , heat until fatty acid layer separates
• Add 20g paraffin wax , stirr and allow to settle cool to room temp
• Remove wax cake, rinse with water , add rinsings to aq. Phase of evaporate to 60ml
• Make up to 100ml (test soln
DETERMINATION OF
NICKEL CONTENT
• Take 50ml of aliquot (evaporate to 15ml)
• Add 3ml bromine water (1mts)
• Add 5ml liquor ammonia (ppt formed)
• Filter, add 10ml dimethyl glyoxime soln and add 15‐
20ml 95%ethanol
• Kept for 5mts for development of colour
• The sample shall be considered to have passed the
test if no pink colour develops
DETERMINATION OF
IRON :10ppm
• REAGENTS :liquor ammonia, sulphuric acid, citric
acid, thioglycollic acid, std iron soln, methyl red
indicator
• PROCEDURE
• 5ml of test soln (metals are isolated from soap)
• Add 4ml citric acid add 0.02ml methyl red +liquor
ammonia (yellow colour)
• Add 3ml liq.ammonia in excess
• Cool and add 3ml thioglycollic acid
• Make upto 25ml , filter
• Measure absorbance at 540nm using water as
blank
• Prepare calibration curve with std from soln
and determine iron content of soap sample
from it
DETERMINATION OF
COPPER :3ppm
REAGENTS :std copper soln, zinc dibenzyl di thiocarbonate +25ml sulphuric acid
PROCEDURE
• 20ml aliquot+10ml zinc dibenzyl dithiocarbonate+25ml sulphuric acid shake for 1min
• Collect the lower ccl4 layer in a vf
• Wash the aq. Layer with ccl4 layer in a vf
• Make up the volume, absorbance at 435nm
• Prepare calibration curve with std copper soln
• Determine the copper content of soap sample from curve