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love Visitors guide | 2010

Bruges
Flanders, Belgium

the oficial
city guide

www.bruges.be/tourism
Table of Contents Welcome to the World
PREFACE » 1 Heritage City of Bruges
TEN IRRESISTIBLE BRUGES CLASSICS! » 2
NEW IN 2010: BRUGGE CITY CARD » 6
It is only fair to say that the places that stir all your senses and creep under your
CITY FESTIVAL: BRUGES CENTRAL » 8
skin are extremely rare. Bruges happens to be such a unique place. It is at the same
Van Eyck to Dürer » 10
time cultural and artistic, cosmopolitan, unashamedly Burgundian and mysteriously
Luc Tuymans: a Vision of Central Europe » 12
medieval. The entire historic centre is a Unesco World Heritage site. Strolling through
EVENTS 2010 » 18 her network of medieval streets and alleys or sauntering along her picturesque
WALKS » 24 canals and verdant ramparts you cannot but fall hopelessly in love with her elegant
Bruges, proud World Heritage City » 24 mysteriousness. In winter, her winding cobbled streets and canals shrouded in fog
Bruges: B of Burgundian » 34 take on an even more poetic personality. It’s as if the city is waiting for darkness
Strolling through silent Bruges » 44 to descend before she’s willing to show her fairest face.
INTERVIEWS » 54
The Magic of Bruges » 54 Although it is true that Bruges has one foot firmly in the past, it is equally true that
A Spotlight on Central Europe » 62 she cherishes her future and that she fully invests in culture and architecture. It is
Bruges: Defiantly, Surprising, Seductive » 70 therefore no surprise that the city museums house the Flemish Primitives as well as
Flavourful Flemish Primitives » 78 contemporary art. Moreover, a fair number of enthralling cultural events set the city
Bruges, a Bike-friendly City » 86 alight throughout the year. This year Bruges Central (see page 8) takes centre stage.
This large-scale cultural event boasts two top exhibitions: Van Eyck to Dürer and Luc
KNOW YOUR WAY AROUND BRUGES – SUPER EASY AND HANDY » 94
Tuymans: a Vision of Central Europe. Tuymans, one of the world’s leading contemporary
Museums » 96
artists, is both the inspiration and the driving force behind this exceptional collection of
Places of interest » 106
the plastic arts. And thanks to the Brugge City Card (see page 6) you can now explore
On foot, by boat, horse-drawn carriage, minibus, hot air balloon » 110
all these wonderful events at bargain prices! Indeed, this handy, brand-new city
Out in Bruges » 112
pass allows you free entrance or gives you a hefty discount at countless attractions,
Bike rental points » 114
museums and places of interest in and around Bruges! Easy and inexpensive!
Guided Bike Trips » 116
Tailor-made for Kids » 118
The delights of Bruges’ Burgundian life can be sampled in one of the countless cafés
Get even more out of your stay in Bruges » 122
and restaurants, from authentic pubs to trendy eating-places and famous gourmet
Bruges’ wet- and woodlands » 123
restaurants. Indeed, the citizens of Bruges have known for centuries how to eat and
A trip to the seaside » 127
drink
d well. Would you like to spend some more time with us?
Battlefields: Flanders and the Great War » 130
We
W hope that this visitors guide will be your trusty compan-
Other Places of Interest » 133
ion
i in case you lose yourself in one of Bruges’ many stories.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION » 134
STREET NAMES » 136 We
W and our fellow townspeople wish you a memorable stay!
KEY » 139
Jean-Marie Bogaert, Alderman for Tourism
CITY MAPS » 141
Patrick Moenaert, Burgomaster
Ten Irresistible
Bruges Classics
> 03

> 01 > 02 > 05

1 THE FLEMISH PRIMITIVES: canals – these remarkable city water where you will fully enjoy
WORLDFAMOUS ART arteries – you will discover secret the age-old view.
FROM BRUGES gardens, picturesque bridges and
(more information on page 62) wonderfully beautiful still lives. 4 THE CENTURIES-OLD BRUGES
> 04
Admire the unique and world- Although it sounds incredible, SKYLINE: WELCOME CHURCH
famous collection of pictures by Bruges’ loveliest places ooze even OF OUR LADY (ONTHAALKERK
the Flemish Primitives in the more charm when you admire ONZE-LIEVE-VROUW), BELFRY, 5 BURG AND CITY HALL:
very city where they were painted. them travelling by boat. SAINT SAVIOUR’S CATHEDRAL MEDIEVAL OPULENCE
Or do you prefer the ground-break- Three spires dominate the Bruges (more information on page 28)
ing contemporary art scene, or 3 THE BEGUINAGE AND skyline each in their own way. The The Burg is one of the city’s hand-
perhaps poignant and romantic MINNEWATER: HUSHED BEAUTY imposing Belfry has been the proud somest squares. For more than six
folklore or majestic town palaces? Some places are so beautiful that symbol of Bruges’ independence centuries Bruges has been gov-
The Bruges Museums will happily you will have no choice but to fall for centuries. The stiff climb up its erned from its 14th-century city
serve all your needs. silent. The beguinage is such a stairs will be rewarded with an hall, one of the oldest and most
beauty spot. When you amble unforgettable panorama. The brick venerable in the Low Countries. All
2 THE CANALS OF BRUGES: through its quiet inner court, its tower of the Church of Our Lady – this time this remarkable historic
THE CITY’S ARTERIES purity will leave you speechless. the highest of its kind in Europe – building has dominated this majes-
Experience the city by following an Therefore take your time and while exemplifies the craftsmanship of tic square. Nowhere else will you
age-old tradition. Cruising Bruges’ away along the romantic Minne- Bruges’ artisans. The spire of Saint be able to experience the city’s
Saviour’s Cathedral has recently wealth and affluence so strongly.
been completely renovated.
2 3
> 07

> 09

> 06

> 08

> 10

6 ALSMHOUSES (GODSHUIZEN): sounds of the Bruges Festival to the this tasty universe is by eating and 10 LISSEWEGE: ONE OF
CHARITY FROZEN IN STONE rocking Cactus Festival, the swing- sampling chocolate, of course. FLANDERS’PRETT IEST VILLAGES
(more information on page 30) ing Klinkers and the impressive (more information on page 123)
Godshuizen are tiny villages film experience of Cinema Novo. 9 BRUGES’ CULTURAL SHRINES: Barely a handful of bicycle miles
within the city’s ramparts. That’s Throughout the year the city’s CULTURE WITH A CAPITAL C from Bruges, the fine polder village
how these medieval residential festivals guarantee a wonderfully (more information on page 112) of Lissewege welcomes you with
courts are best described. Centu- infectious and varied ambiance Bruges offers the possibility to open arms. With its charming
ries ago they were built out of that’s impossible to ignore. experience culture under the best canal, its renowned barn complex
mortar and charity. Today their possible conditions. What about of the Abbey of Ter Doest, its white-
picturesque gardens, whitewashed 8 THE WORLD’S CAPITAL an opera at the state-of-the-art washed polder cottages, its impos-
façades and glorious silence are OF CHOCOLATE Concert Hall? Or perhaps a ground- ing church steeple and its vast
the city’s havens of peace par (more information on page 78) breaking performance at the thea- flowering meadows, it is no coinci-
excellence. Forty-nine chocolate boutiques, the tre? It is absolutely no coincidence dence that Lissewege was elected
chocolate museum Choco-Story, that this grand building is one one of Flanders’prettiest villages.
7 BRUGES’ CITY FESTIVALS: a chocolate trail and a chocolate of Europe’s best preserved city
INFECT IOUS AMBIANCE fair. It goes without saying that theatres. Whatever you choose,
From the MA Festival’s ancient Bruges is the world’s capital of you can be sure of a great time in an
music and the rousing world music chocolate. The only way to discover exceptional setting.

4 5
New in 2010:
Brugge
City Card
48h
72h

Endless bargains! Thesee are our special offer


offers!
f s!! » At least 25% discount on not to be
Would you like to explore Bruges and » Free entrance to 24 museums and missed concerts, dance and theatre
go easy on your wallet at the same places of interest in Bruges! performances!
time? With the Brugge City Card you And a hefty discount at the museum » At least 25% discount on your
will accumulate one discount after shops to boot! bike rental!
another and even visit countless at- » A free round trip on the canals » At least 25% discount at your
tractions completely free! This super (1 March-15 November) or a free underground car park!
bargain card is handy and inexpensive tour with the City Tour minibus » At least 25% discount at various
and your unique chance to save more (16 November-28 February)! museums, places of interest and
than € 200,00! attractions in the vicinity of Bruges!
» € 5,00 instead of € 12,00 for a
three-day pass of De Lijn, valid on
HOW DOES IT WORK? all buses and trams in the whole WHAT WILL IT COST YOU?
of Flanders!
Choose the validity period yourself: 48hrs or 72hrs. = € 33,00
From page 96 onwards you will find a detailed overview of all museums,
CITY
CARD
places of interest and attractions in and around Bruges. If you see a then = € 38,00
CITY
CARD
the Brugge City Card lets you in for free. If you see a , then you receive a
hefty discount on the individual price. In addition, the free monthly magazine HOW TO PLACE AN ORDER?
events@brugge handily lists all the events where the Brugge City Card offers
you an extra discount. The card will be automatically activated as soon as you Call in at the information offices
use it for the first time. The card expires once the time-limit has been excee- in the Railway Station or
ded. You can visit each attraction only once. Bear in mind that most museums [Concertgebouw] or order your City
are closed on Mondays and that there are a few attractions that allow you to Card at www.bruggecitycard.be.
use your Brugge City Card only within certain periods or blocks of time.

6 7
Bruges Central
City festival 2010

Central Europe is the prominent The two most important pillars of


theme of this magnificent city festival. Bruges Central are the art-historical
That Central Europe should be the star exhibition Van Eyck to Dürer and the

9$ 7<
is not a coincidence. After all, the fall contemporary art circuit Luc Tuymans:

E N /
of the Berlin Wall in 1989 gave rise to a a vision of Central Europe. Bruges

7, &,

M A C RA U TR E
T S E
new interaction between West and Central furthermore offers a varied

TH DA

IB F UR IC
East. It has affected us on a strategic, programme of exhibitions, events,

  85 75 2 ITIOINLM E
political and economic level, it has had films, performing arts and concerts:

6
a major influence on tourism, and it from a concert by Goran Bregovic &

  3 / 
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TE
has even seeped through into our daily Wedding and Funeral Band or a poetic

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life. Of course, Flanders has had close promenade past fire installations

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EX
5
ties with Eastern Europe for far longer. to a selection of Central European

 
)
Indeed, much of Bruges’ heritage is artists, such as the Franco-Hungarian
conclusive proof of that, a conclusion choreographer Josef Nadj, the

1
that Bruges Central is to focus on in Polish artist Pawel Althamer and the

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great detail. The festival also concen- Lithuanian carillon composer Giedrius

&
 (
trates on the artistic interaction, which Kuprevičius. One thing cannot be
is getting into its stride again after half denied: for four months Bruges will
a century of interruption. be swamped by artists, musicians,
actors and designers from the East.
» 18/09/2010 - 30/01/2011,
www.brugescentral.be
:::%58*(6&(175$/%(

DIILFKHBVWDGVIHVWLYDOB$//LQGG 

8 9
Van Eyck to Dürer focuses on Eastern Europe. In the
process it shows how the works of
This art-historical exhibition sketches the Flemish Primitives inspired local
the influence of the Flemish Primitives artists and Dürer’s early production.
in the Holy Roman Empire. The artistic Next to a handsome selection of pain-
and technical virtuosity of the Flemish tings the exhibition also parades some
Primitives such as the Van Eyck wonderful sculptures, incunabula
brothers and Rogier van der Weyden and miniatures.
spread at lightning speed all over (see also page 62)
Europe, from Spain, Portugal, Sout-
hern France and Italy via Germany,
Austria, Hungary and Transylvania
to Poland and the Baltic states. For
years Flemish art had a strong hold on
artistic Europe, on painting, sculpture
and illuminations. Van Eyck to Dürer

29.10.2010
PRACTICAL INFORMATION 30.01.2011
GROENINGEMUSEUM
TICKETS > online through www.brugescentral.be (from March 2010 onwards),
at the counter of the museum locations throughout the duration of the exhibi-
tions, at [Concertgebouw] (open every day from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) and
by phoning Toerisme Brugge (from March 2010 onwards) and at several hotels.

VAN EYCK TO DÜRER > 29 October 2010 – 30 January 2011, Groeninge Museum

LUC TUYMANS: A VISION OF CENTRAL EUROPE > 22 October 2010 – 23 January


2011, Arentshuis, City Halls, Great Seminary, Memling in Sint-Jan -
Hospitaalmuseum and Forum+ [Concertgebouw].

PRICE > € 11.00; 65+: € 9.00, youngsters under 26: € 1,00; children under 6:
CITY

WWW.BRUGESCENTRAL.BE
CARD
free; Brugge City Card: free
CITY FESTIVAL 2010

10 11
Deimantas Narkevicius – ‘Revisiting Solaris’, 2007
Courtesy: Jan Mot, Brussel

Bruno Schulz – ‘Three men kneeling in front of a naked woman with a whip’, 1920
Courtesy: Museum of Literature, Warsaw

Luc Tuymans: ting light on both Bruges’ rich patri-


a vision of Central Europe mony and their own origins. Tuymans’ 22.10.2010
Luc Tuymans (Antwerp, 1958) is one of
internationally highly-esteemed
colleagues such as Deimantas Narkevi- 23.01.2011
the most important contemporary ar- cius, Takashi Murakami and Pawel FORUM+
[CONCERTGEBOUW]
tists as well as one of the most respec- Buchler stand shoulder to shoulder with
ted painters of his generation. It is the- artists from the first half of the twentie-
refore no surprise to see his work in th century, like Alina Szapocznikow,
major international museums. For his Bruno Schulz and Andrzej Wróblewski.
contemporary and idiosyncratic art cir- The installations and sculptures by
cuit in Bruges’ historic heart Tuymans Miroslaw Balka are also prominently
has called on roughly thirty artists from displayed, just as is the work of Katha-
Poland, Eastern Germany, the Czech rina Fritsch, Gerhard Richter and Neo
Republic, Serbia, Albania, Slovenia, Rauch from Eastern Germany or the
Estonia and Latvia. These artists display self-mockery of Andreas Slominiski and
their views on society and as a conse- Pawel Althamer for example. Each of
quence do not shy away from tackling these artists have, in their own way,
sensitive themes such as history, trau- made their mark on the artistic land-
ma and violence, themes that Tuymans scape both in their own country and far
WWW.BRUGESCENTRAL.BE
has also had continuously under his beyond their own borders, in the past as
CITY FESTIVAL 2010
skin. Their works of art throw a fascina- well as in the present. (see also page 14)

12 13
> Identikit
Name: Luc Tuymans
Place and Date of Birth:
Mortsel, 14 Juin 1958
He is the most successful contempo-
rary Belgian painter, and the first
Belgian to receive a retrospective at
London’s Tate Modern. He was also
selected for Documenta-Kassel
and the Venice Biennale.

Luc Tuymans has an incredibly busy festival tackles matters very profes-
Miroslaw Balka – ‘Nothere’, 2008 schedule, and one that sends him con- sionally. I am moreover allowed to
Courtesy: White Cube, London – Photo: Todd-White Art Photography
tinually from east to west all over the outline a robust content, and I can

Bruges Central ‘Bruges is an idyll. I put it against a city like Warsaw.’


In the footsteps of Jan van Eyck globe. At the end of 2009, a selection draw on a broad network. What more
from his recent work began its Ameri- could you want?’
can tour. Brussels witnessed The State
Geert van der Speeten (1961) is cultural editor with De Standaard, Flanders’- of Things, an exhibition on contempo-
quality newspaper. He writes a.o. on the arts, architecture and opera. rary art from China and Belgium. Luc Bruges the Underdog
Tuymans compiled the works together Rest assured that there is a smidgeon
Every five years Bruges pulls out all the stops for a with his colleague Ai Wei Wei. of idealism behind the public role that
How does an artist become a curator? Tuymans the artist is taking on. ‘In the
major cultural festival. In 2010, the festival follows in As he likes to have a say in the cultural art world there is now a well-trained
the footsteps of Jan van Eyck, whereby all eyes will be debate anyway, and since he also loves generation of curators at work. They
on Central Europe. Luc Tuymans, one of Flanders’ leading a challenge, Tuymans has on more especially pay attention to themselves.
than one occasion been tempted to Art seems to have withdrawn behind
lights in contemporary art, examines the current state side with the organisers. the walls of subsidised institutions.
of the geographical links with Central Europe. He is the The same has happened in Bruges, Saving the museum as an institute, by
festival’s artist in residence. where he is now leaving his mark on turning it again into a public place, is
the Bruges Central festival. ‘The offer going to be one of the tasks ahead.’
was tempting,’ says Tuymans. ‘We Tuymans believes that Bruges, the un-
quickly agreed on the budget, and the derdog in the contemporary art world,

14 15
migrant, also pops up as one of the his apparently modest motto Als ic can
artists participating in the festival. (If I can), van Eyck was hiding most
The exhibition snakes through the blatant ambition. The degree of per-
city’s streets. It passes five ‘islands of fection he achieved is highly trauma-
significance’: the Great Seminary, the tising for professionals (laughs).’
Belfry, the Arentshuis, Saint John’s ‘His realism was truly remarkable.

‘Jan van Eyck achieved perfection.


It is extremely traumatising for today’s painters.’
Hospital and the Concertgebouw He deepened nature, and he discon-
(Concert hall). There will also be nected the definition of reality from
concerts, theatre and dance per- traditional Christian mimesis.’
Alina Szapocznikow – ‘Shirt, a Requiem for the Bottom’, 1971
Neo Rauch – ‘Die Aufnahme’, 2008 Courtesy: Galerie Isabella Czarnowska, Berlin; Private Collection, Switzerland; formances and a separate film It is maybe time to have another look
Courtesy: David Zwirner, New York and Galerie Eigen + Art, Berlin/Leipzig Piotr Stanislawski, ADAGP, Paris – Photo: Dietmar Linke
programme highlighting Central at the outline of Belgian art, so
European cartoons. Tuymans believes.
‘At the moment, Belgian art is being
might play a special role. ‘The ties of Modernism placed one-sidedly in the tradition
the city with contemporary art are get- Tuymans has worked in close co- Homage of the grotesque and the surreal.
ting stronger,’ he says. ‘There are one- operation with artists from Central For Bruges, the five-yearly festival has According to this logic, the level-head-
off events, but also festivals that offer Europe, such as the Pole Miroslaw to be a city festival as well as a draw ed van Eyck doesn’t fit in at all, maybe
fair samplings: both initiatives may Balka. He particularly wants to show for international visitors. That’s why a because his codes prove very difficult
help to provide that ultimate push in ‘that Central Europe has fascinating historical theme is carefully chosen to crack nowadays. In spite of that, van
the right direction.’ misconceptions about its own cultural each time. Eyck of all people has to be seen as a
history, a history that doesn’t lag The exhibition Van Eyck to Dürer figure that has left one of the deepest
very much behind our own modernis- examines the impact on Eastern impressions on our art.’
Idyll tic period.’ Europe of the arts in the Low Coun-
Bruges as a magnet for tourists and as The art scene from Warsaw to Zagreb tries between 1420 and 1520. The final
a guardian of national heritage: Tuy- is thriving. Tuymans wants to prize stage is the journey Albrecht Dürer
mans is fascinated by the city’s image. open our stereotypical opinions. undertook in 1520, an homage to the
‘It is an idyll, a city whose skies are ‘We do not want to reduce Central Flemish Primitives and at the same
even forbidden territory for planes. In Europe’s identity to a handful of cli- time the beginning of the renaissance.
Bruges Central I would like to put the chés, such as that of Polish workers Dürer would be the very first artist to
city against Warsaw, the Polish capital looking for employment here. We also paint a truly accurate self-portrait.
that has been seriously destroyed refuse to mix up tradition with origin. Tuymans holds Jan van Eyck in great
three times throughout its history.’ That is why for example the American admiration. ‘He is one of the strongest
crime photographer Weegee, a Polish painters in western art history. Behind

16 17
Events 2010

> 01

> 02 > 03

There is no better way to fraternise with the townspeople 1


CITY
CARD
POETRY IN DOUBLE TIME. and instantaneously. A challenge
of Bruges than to immerse yourself in the infectious A RUSTLING REVOLUTION that achieves an extraordinary
ambiance at the innumerable events that sweep through 23 January - 23 May 2010 tension and turns the artistic
Historic sites in the district of Saint- adventure into an even more
the whole city.
Anne’s form the backdrop to poetry vibrant event. Both performing
and plastic art. Guido Gezelle, the artists and audience will be
father of experimental Dutch-lan- sizzling with excitement.
The monthly magazine events@brugge offers a detailed events guage poetry, was the inspiration www.concertgebouw.be
calendar. It is available free of charge at the information offices behind this poetry festival that inter-
at the Concertgebouw or railway station. twines 19th and 20th-century poetry.
CITY
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Visual and aural discoveries galore! 3 CHOCOLATE MARKET


www.dubbeltijd.be 13 and 14 February 2010
Chocaholics will know by now that
the Chocolate Guild of Bruges is a
CITY
CARD

2 COME ON! ACTION! past master at putting on chocolate


12 February - 23 February 2010 feasts. During this second edition
With the Brugge City Card in your pocket you will experi- Action! is the rallying-cry of this renowned chocolate confectioners
ence countless events for free or enjoy at least a 25% very first edition of Come On! from Bruges will pamper your taste
48h
discount at concerts, dance and theatre performances Music, sound, dance and music buds with their delectable creations.
72h
you definitely don’t want to miss! Turn to page 6 now! theatre are created on the spot, www.bruges.be/winter

18 19
> 07 > 08

> 05 > 06 > 10 > 09

CITY
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4 AIRBAG 6 BOCCHERINI 8 CACTUSFESTIVAL memorable locations. The summer


8 - 29 May 2010 4 - 6 June 2010 8, 9 and 10 July 2010 always swings in Bruges!
The accordion is back! If you’re For an entire weekend music lovers This open-air music festival full www.klinkers-brugge.be
not convinced, then this sparkling will get the chance to be enraptured of charm and atmosphere brings
music festival will certainly mes- by the unrivalled oeuvre of cello vir- a successful cocktail of rock,
merise artists as well as devotees. tuoso and composer of chamber reggae, world music and a touch 10 MAFESTIVAL
For about a month Bruges will music Luigi Boccherini (1743-1805). of dance. Big names alternate 6 - 15 August 2010
rightfully proclaim itself capital Internationally-famed musicians with raw but exciting young talent, For the 47th time this prestigious
of the accordion. serve up a delightful menu of musi- and the infectious rhythms set festival of ancient music brings
www.ccbrugge.be cal discoveries and celebrated com- alight the whole of Minnewater together the world’s most illustri-
positions. www.concertgebouw.be Park, its fixed festival location. ous musicians. Together they
www.cactusfestival.be sound out the boundaries of
5 THE PROCESSION historical pieces and go in search
OF THE HOLY BLOOD 7 ZANDFEESTEN of fascinating cross-fertilisation
13 May 2010 4 July, 1 August, 26 September 2010 9 KLINKERS that rolls back the centuries.
For centuries this popular munici- Over the years this immense an- 23 July - 7 August 2010 www.mafestival.be
pal procession has been depicting tiques and bygones fair has proven This contemporary – and free! –
arresting and moving scenes its international appeal. A crowd music festival takes in the whole of
from the Old and New Testament. puller that attracts both the keen Bruges historic centre. It offers a
The procession’s roots goes back collector and the interested day trip- varied programme at numerous
to 1291! www.brugge.be per time and again. www.brugge.be

20 21
> 11

> 15

> 14

CITY CITY CITY


CARD CARD CARD

11 BEER FESTIVAL four days of concerts, jam sessions 14 VAN EYCK TO DÜRER 15 DECEMBER DANCE
11 and 12 September 2010 and context activities. 29 October 2010 - 30 January 2011 1 - 12 December 2010
It goes without saying that Belgium www.dewerf.be Between 1390 and 1528 Jan van Eyck The productions of this internation-
is the land of beers and ales. In and Albrecht Dürer were the great- al dance festival take place at
addition, Bruges has an age-old est artists of their time, two titans various locations in Bruges.
CITY
CARD

tradition as a city of brewers and 13 LUC TUYMANS: who dominated western painting The festival highlights the contem-
cafés. This annual beer festival A VISION OF CENTRAL EUROPE at a crucial juncture. The Groeninge porary dance scene, and features
introduces you to each and every 22 October 2010 - 23 January 2011 Museum brings them together, dance legends from across the
Belgian top-fermented beer. Luc Tuymans, universally regarded presents their famous and not world as well as up and coming
To look, to smell, to taste. as one of the world’s leading so famous contemporaries and young talent.
That’s what it’s all about! contemporary artists, is both displays a plethora of paintings, www.decemberdance.be
www.brugsbierfestival.be the driving force and source of sculptures, manuscripts, drawings,
inspiration behind this truly prints and engravings. For more
exceptional programme parading information see page 10.
CITY  -*.

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12 JAZZ BRUGGE the plastic and performing arts. www.brugescentral.be


30 September - 3 October 2010 For more information see page 12.
This reputable festival celebrates www.brugescentral.be
its fifth edition. This year it exclu-
sively features high-quality jazz
from Central Europe. The result is

22 23
» START [Concert-
gebouw], ‘t Zand
» DISTANCE 3 km

Bruges, Proud » FINISH Old Saint Joh


Hospital
n’s

World Heritage City


Bruges may be rightly proud of her World Heritage status,
the city happily embraces the future, too! This walk takes
you along world-famous panoramic views, sky-high
monuments and centuries-old squares invigorated by
contemporary constructions. One foot planted in the
Middle Ages, the other one firmly planted in the present.
This walk is an absolute must for first-time visitors who
would like to explore the very heart of the city straight away.
Keep your camera at the ready!

24
13 38

From ’t Zand to Simon Stevinplein Markt and Burg


This walk starts at the Tourist Information [Concertgebouw]. Continue down Oude Burg, a street in the right-hand corner of the square. Before
’t Zand is dominated by the Concertgebouw (concert hall) 13 , Bruges’ brand-new long you will see the Cloth Halls on your left. These belong to the Belfry. You’re al-
modern attraction. A clear-cut proof that this World Heritage city isn’t afraid of the lowed to cross the halls’ imposing inner court between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. during
future. The top floor of this culture temple houses Forum+ 42 , where contempo- the week, and between 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. at weekends. The Markt is at the other end
rary plastic art and a grandiose panoramic view await you. Don’t forget to drop in of the yard. If the gate is closed, turn back and walk down Hallestraat, which runs
at [Concertgebouw] on the ground floor: here you will find all the necessary parallel to the Halls.
tourist information as well as expert advice on all cultural events. Walk II (page 37) comments extensively on Markt.

Leave [Concertgebouw] behind you, cross the square and turn into Zuidzand- Return to the Belfry 39 and walk down Breidelstraat, a traffic-free alley on the
straat, the first street on the right. Saint Saviour’s Cathedral looms up ahead on corner. Continue to Burg.
your right after three hundred metres 20 . Along the way on your right you will notice the Garre, a narrow alley. This may be
Bruges’ oldest parish church is located on its original street level, i.e. lower than the narrowest street in Bruges (try walking side by side here!), it nevertheless
the present Zuidzandstraat. The street level gradually rose throughout the Middle boasts a fair number of cosy cafés.
Ages as people simply threw their refuse out onto the street where it was then Burg is the most majestic square in the city. So, take your time to admire its gran-
flattened by passing carts and coaches. Inside Saint Saviour’s, the church tower’s deur. The main character in this medieval story is the Bruggemuseum-City Hall
wooden rafters can be lit. The cathedral treasury displays a.o. interesting copper 38 (1376-1420), one of the oldest city halls in the Netherlands and a gothic ex-
memorial plaques, fine examples of gold and silver and paintings by Dirk Bouts, ample for all its brothers and sisters that were built later, from Louvain to Oude-
Hugo van der Goes and Pieter Pourbus. naarde and Brussels. Having admired its exterior, enter the impressive Gothic
Hall and gaze in admiration at the polychrome floating ribs of the vaulted ceiling.
Continue past the cathedral and walk down Sint-Salvatorskerkhof immediately Hiding on the right-hand side of this gothic monument is the Basilica of the Holy
on the right. Turn left into Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat. Simon Stevinplein opens Blood 05 , a mystical double chapel, below which sits the Romanesque church of
up at the end of this street. Saint Basil (1139-1149). One floor up is a basilica in Gothic revival style where the
This attractive square, lined with cosy café terraces, is named after Simon Stevin, reliquary of the Holy Blood has been kept since time immemorial. Each year on
a well-known Flemish-Dutch scientist. His gracious statue naturally takes centre Ascension Day the reliquary is carried along in the Procession of the Holy Blood, a
stage.

26 27
BURG: AN ARCHITECTURAL SYNOPSIS
Art lovers have already noticed that Burg projects a wonderful cross-section of
stunning architectural styles. It is, indeed, a summing-up in one place of all the
styles that have caught our imagination throughout the various centuries. From
Romanesque (Saint Basil’s Church) and Gothic (City Hall) by way of renaissance
(civil registry) and baroque (deanery) to classicism (mansion of the Liberty of
Bruges) and 21st-century architecture (Toyo Ito). There’s no need to go and dash
all around Bruges to see it all!

35
much-loved event that has been warming the heart of the entire population from
as early as 1291. Facing the basilica is the gleaming renaissance façade of the The Vismarkt opens
erstwhile Civil Registry (1534-1537), adjacent to the Bruggemuseum-Liberty of up immediately past
Bruges 32 . Its showpiece is a splendid oak mantelpiece with an alabaster frieze the bridge 35 .
(1529). Adjoining is the former mansion of the Liberty of Bruges (1722-1727). It is At first, fish was sold on
from here that the country around Bruges was administered. After 1795 a court of one of the Markt’s corners,
justice was installed. It has been the city’s administrative centre since 1988. Once but as the townspeople
upon a time Saint Donatus’Cathedral graced the spot directly in front of the City complained about the
Hall. The church was destroyed in 1799. Today it is Toyo Ito’s furore-making futurist stench, the fishmongers were forced to move and sell their wares here.
pavilion that grabs the attention. Adjacent to it is the deanery (1655-1666) of the ca- In the covered arcade (1821), specially erected for the purpose of selling fish,
thedral. fresh seafish was sold, a delicacy that only the rich could afford. Today you can
still buy your fresh saltwater fish here every morning from Tuesday to Saturday.

Fishy Stories Retrace your steps and turn left in front of the bridge towards Huidenvettersplein.
Proceed to Blinde Ezelstraat, the little street to the left of the City Hall. Don’t Whereas the Vismarkt served the rich, Huidenvettersplein (Tanners Square)
forget to look back at the lovely arch between City Hall and Old Civil Registry. served the poor. No seafish on the menu here, but affordable freshwater fish.
Do you see Solomon? Left of him is the statue of Prosperity, to the right the The post in the middle of the square used to have a twin brother: in between the
statue of Peace. two posts hung the scales that the fish were weighed on. The large, striking
According to legend, Blinde Ezelstraat (Blind Donkey Street) owes its name to… building dominating the square used to be the guildhall of the tanners. Here
a blind donkey. The house in the left-hand corner hugging the Canal used to they turned cow hides into leather. As this was a rather smelly job, it is no coin-
house a mill driven by a donkey. In order to preserve the poor animal from the cidence that the tanners’ guildhall adjoined the fish markets. Look out for the
depressing thought that the only thing it had to do was turn endless rounds, statuette adorning the corner of the hall. It’s no surprise that the little fellow
a blindfold was put on the donkey. A new street name was born. raises his nose.
Look left on the bridge: Meebrug is said to be the oldest bridge of Bruges.

28 29
Continue to Rozenhoedkaai.
Keep right.
Rozenhoedkaai is the most photo-
graphed spot of Bruges! So, take out
your camera! This used to be the salt
port. In the Middle Ages salt was as
expensive as gold: it served to pre-
serve food and to season dishes. A
word like salaris (Dutch), salaire
(French), salary still harks back to
ALMSHOUSES, medieval times. The word derives 20
THE QUICKEST WAY TO HEAVEN from sal, which is Latin for salt. Ro-
These 14th-century dwellings were man soldiers’ wages were paid in salt!
charitable institutions, sometimes century. The museum entrance is reached through a few picturesque courtyard
set up by the guilds to lodge their gardens. Would you like to find out more about the Flemish Primitives? Then leaf
elderly members, sometimes set up From Groeninge through to the interview on page 62 with Till-Holger Borchert, the Groeninge Mu-
by widows or well-to-do burghers to the Bonifacius bridge seum’s chief curator.
who wanted to ensure their place in Continue along Dijver.
heaven. For that purpose, each set of Many centuries ago all manner of Keep straight ahead. This is Gruuthusestraat. On the left-hand side
almshouses had its own chapel druids gathered on this holy spot to is the Gruuthuse Museum.
where the occupants of the alm- give praise to their gods and spirits. Would you like to know more about the Bruggemuseum-Gruuthuse 21 ?
shouses would be expected to send Along this atmospheric stretch of Then leaf through to Walk II on page 36.
their prayers of thanks up to heaven. water, you will first find the College
Practically all of the almshouses of Europe (numbers 9 to 11) 03 , an Continue to Guido Gezelleplein, then bear left in front of the Welcome Church of
have been carefully restored and international postgraduate institu- Our Lady 14 and follow the narrow footpath to the picturesque Bonifacius bridge.
modernised and offer cosy living to tion that focuses on Europe, and then The crosses that you see all over the place don’t belong to graves at all! They
today’s elderly, whilst their small yet the Groeninge Museum (number 12) are crosses taken down from church steeples during the First World War so as
picturesque gardens and white- 20 , Bruges’ most renowned muse- to disorient the enemy pilots. The crosses have never been put up again. Close
washed façades offer welcoming um. On display are world-famous to the Bonifacius bridge is Bruges’ smallest Gothic window. Look up! It was
peace and quiet to the present-day masterpieces by Jan van Eyck, Hans through this window that the lords and ladies of Gruuthuse were able to peer
visitor. Feel free to enter these Memling, Hugo van der Goes, Gerard down onto their private jetty. Across the bridge is the charming city garden of
premises, but don’t forget to respect David and many other Flemish Prim- Arentshuis 02 , an elegant 18th-century abode. The top floor houses work by
their perfect tranquillity. itives. The museum also has a valu- the versatile British artist Frank Brangwyn. The ground floor is reserved for
able collection of Flemish expres- temporary exhibitions. Rik Poot’s remarkable sculpture group in the garden
sionists, neoclassical top notch represents the Apocalypse: famine, death, revolution and the plague. A theme
paintings from the 18th and 19th that Hans Memling also found enticing. Go through the garden gate to reach the
centuries and postwar modern art. Overall, the museum shows a complete over- Groeninge Museum 20 , where more work by Memling is displayed.
view of Belgian and southern Dutch (Flemish) painting from the 15th to the 20th

30 31
Walk around the Beguinage and leave through the main gate.
Turn left after the bridge and left again to reach Walplein.
De Halve Maan 12 , a brewery established as early as 1546, is at number 26. This is
Bruges’ last surviving city brewery. Their speciality is ‘Brugse Zot’ (Bruges Fool), a
spirited top-fermented beer made from malt, hop and special yeast. The name of
the beer refers to the nickname of the Bruges townspeople, a name allegedly con-
ferred upon them by Maximilian of Austria. In order to welcome the duke, the citi-
zens paraded past him in a lavish procession of brightly-coloured merrymakers
and fools. When a short time later they asked their ruler to finance a new ‘zothuis’
or madhouse, his answer was as short as it was forceful: ‘The only people I have
12 01 seen here are fools. Bruges is one big madhouse. Close the gates!’

On to the Beguinage! A Splendid Finish


Leave the garden once more through the narrow garden gate and turn left into at Old Saint John’s Hospital
‘Groeninge,’ a winding street. Turn right again at the intersection with Nieuwe Turn left into Zonnekemeers. Once across the
Gentweg. Notice the Saint Joseph Almshouses (17th century) and the De Meule- water, turn right through the large gate into Old
naere Almshouses (1613). Continue down the street. Saint John’s Hospital.
On the corner of Oude Gentweg and Katelijnestraat is the Diamond Museum 18 , The former Hospital of Saint John (13th-14th
Bruges’ most glittering musem and the place to be for all lovers of bling. It goes century) 25 has a proud eight centuries-long
without saying that an inspiring diamond museum simply couldn’t be absent in history. The oldest documents even date back to
the most romantic city of the western hemisphere! the 12th century! Here nuns and monks took
good care of pilgrims, travellers and the sick.
Turn left into Katelijnestraat, then immediately right into Wijngaardstraat. Cross And people sometimes chose to die here. Hans
Wijngaardplein – a stopping place for coachmen. A little further on turn right onto Memling used to be one of them. According to a
the bridge beside the Sashuis (lockhouse) to enter the Beguinage. The bridge of- much later legend, he rewarded his benefactors
fers a fine view of the Minnewater. with no fewer than six masterpieces. Turn the
The Minnewater used to be the landing stage of the barges or track boats which corner, enter the building and weave your way
provided a regular connection between Bruges and Ghent. Today it is one of Brug- through the medieval wards, the incorporated
es’ most romantic beauty spots. Equally atmospheric, yet of a totally different na- church, the Diksmuide attic and the old dormi-
ture, is the Beguinage. Although the ‘Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaarde’ 01 , tory. Don’t forget to pay a visit to the adjoining
founded in 1245, is no longer occupied by beguines, but by nuns of the Order of 17th-century pharmacy. The herb garden
Saint Benedict, you can still form an excellent picture of what daily life looked like grows all the ingredients for gruut: lady’s man-
in the 17th century. The imposing courtyard garden, the whitewashed house- tle, bog myrtle and bay laurel. On the picturesque square that leads to this garden
fronts and blessed peace create an atmosphere all of its own. The entrance gate is ‘The Arteries of the Convent’, a work by the contemporary Italian artist
closes each day at 6.30 p.m. without fail. You have been warned! Giuseppe Penone. How history feeds the present. The World Heritage city of
Bruges couldn’t possibly find a better representation of her intentions.
In Walk II – on page 36 – the meaning of gruut is explained.

32 33
» START Guido Gezelle
plein,
Welcome Church
of Our Lady
» DISTANCE 2,5 km
» FINISH Prinsenhof

Bruges:
B of Burgundian
When, during Bruges’ Golden Age Philip the Bold, Duke of
Burgundy, married Margaret of Male, the daugher of the
last Count of Flanders, the county of Flanders suddenly
found itself belonging to Burgundy. As the Burgundian
court liked to stay in Bruges, the port city became a magnet
for noblemen, merchants and artists. They naturally all
wanted to get their share of the city’s wealth. Today the
Burgundian influence is still strongly felt throughout Brug-
es. Let’s discover a northern city with a southern character.

34 35
14 39

From Guido Gezelleplein to Markt Retrace your steps, cross the attractive Gruuthuseplein and turn right into Dijver.
This square is named after the Flemish priest and poet Guido Gezelle (1830- Number 12 is the Groeninge Museum 20 , Bruges’ most famous museum. An in-
1899). Take a seat on one of the square’s benches and enjoy Gezelle’s lovely stat- terview with chief curator Till-Holger Borchert is on page 62. Further along Dijver
ue and the side-view of the Welcome Church of Our Lady 14 . Its one hundred and is one of the locations of the College of Europe, numbers 9-11 03 , an internation-
twenty-two metres high brick tower is sure proof of the craftsmanship of Bruges’ al postgraduate institution that focuses on Europe.
artisans. Take a look inside and admire the rich art collection that includes
Michelangelo’s world-famous Madonna and Child and the 15th- and 16th- century Carry on down Dijver and turn left into Wollestraat.
mausoleums of Mary of Burgundy and Charles the Bold. On your left is the strik- Perez de Malvenda is an impressive mansion on the corner of Wollestraat. This
ing residence of the lords of Gruuthuse, now the Bruggemuseum-Gruuthuse 21 . 15th-century town house, now a food shop, has been restored from attic to cellar.
The tower and well were status symbols, and evidence of the Gruuthuse family’s Just before Markt are the Cloth Halls 39 , the Belfry’s warehouses and sales out-
great wealth. They made their fortune from their exclusive rights on gruut, a herb lets. Street side were countless stalls where the townspeople bought herbs for
mixture that, ages before hop, was used to flavour beer. Louis of Gruuthuse not their medicinal powders and potions. Indeed, in Burgundian times, Bruges used
only commanded the army of Charles the Bold, he was also the personal body- to import herbs from all over Europe.
guard to Mary of Burgundy. A cultured man, he owned the Gruuthuse manuscript,
a famous medieval codex containing amongst its many texts no fewer than
147 songs. The family’s motto was Plus est en vous (There is more in you than Markt, Bruges’ beating heart
you think). It’s proudly displayed above the door of their residence. Wollestraat leads to Markt.
Markt is dominated by its Belfry 39 , for centuries the city’s foremost edifice and
Continue along the narrow footpath to the left of the church. the perfect look-out in case of war, fire or any other calamity. You can still climb to
Look up immediately beyond the bend. Do you see the chapel that seems to hold the top! En route you pass the former medieval treasure-chamber and the forty-
the Bruggemuseum-Gruuthuse and the Welcome Church of Our Lady in a close seven silver-toned bells of the carillon, altogether twenty-seven tons of bronze
embrace? As the lords of Gruuthuse were far too grand to mingle with the popu- melodiousness. Your climb up the Belfry’s 366 steps will be rewarded with an un-
lace, they had their own private chapel high above the street, where they could forgettable panoramic view.
follow Mass. This intimate place of worship can still be visited. At the foot of the Belfry are the world’s most famous chippies (frietkoten)! The
statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck graces the middle of the square.

36 37
SWANS ON THE CANALS seller from Mozart’s opera The Magic
After the death of Mary of Burgundy, Bruges went through some troubled times. Flute, guards the entrance. His score
The townspeople, enraged by new taxes Maximilian of Austria, Mary’s successor, lies scattered nonchalantly on the
had imposed upon them, even rose in revolt against their new ruler. As Maximilian square opposite.
was locked up in House Craenenburg on the market square, he helplessly
witnessed the torture and eventual beheading of his bailiff and trusted councillor Continue along Vlamingstraat and
Pieter Lanchals. According to legend, once the duke had regained power, the turn right into Kortewinkel just before
citizens of Bruges were ordered to keep swans or long necks (langhalzen) on the canal.
the canals for all eternity. Somewhat hidden from gazing eyes,
Kortewinkel boasts a unique 16th-cen-
tury wooden housefront. It is one of only two left in the city (you will come across
the other one further along this walk). Just a few metres on
is another delicious discovery at number 10. The Jesuit
These two popular Bruges heroes College
Co has a magnificent secretive courtyard garden. Is
resisted French oppression and its door open? Then walk in and enjoy its heavenly peace.
consequently played an important
part during the Battle of the Spurs K
Kortewinkel turns into Spaanse Loskaai, the home port
in 1302. Their statue neatly looks out of the Spanish merchants in Burgundian times.
o
onto the Gothic revival style Provin- The picturesque bridge on your left is the Augustine
T
cial Palace (Markt 3) 31 . Until the bridge, one of Bruges’ oldest specimens, what with its
b
18th century this used to be the extremely busy Waterhalle, a covered warehouse sseven hundred summers. The stone seats were originally
where goods were loaded and unloaded along the canals that ran alongside the iintended to display the wares of the diligent sellers. The
square. Today the canals are still there, albeit underground. bridge affords an excellent view of the house in the right-
Would you like a break? Then treat yourself to a coach ride and explore the city by hand corner, which connects Spanjaardstraat with Ko-
horse and carriage for half an hour. Or maybe you prefer a fifty-minutes city tour by rtewinkel. This used to be not only a monastery but also
minibus? You can continue your walk after your trip. a haunted house, so say the locals. When an amorous monk was rejected by a
nun, the man murdered her and then committed suicide. Ever since they have
been haunting that ramshackle building…
From Markt to Jan van Eyckplein
Ignore Markt on your left and continue straight ahead to Vlamingstraat. Continue along Spaanse Loskaai, go down the first street on your right
In the 15th century this used to be the harbour area’s shopping street. A fair and proceed to Oosterlingenplein.
number of banks had a branch here, and wine taverns were two a penny. Each of During Bruges’ Golden Age this was the fixed abode of the so-called Oosterlingen
these had a deep cellar where French and Renish wines could easily be stacked. or German merchants. Their imposing warehouse took up the entire left side of
In the medieval vaulted cellars of Taverne Curiosa (Vlamingstraat 20), the alco- the square. Today the only remnant is the building to the right of Hotel Bryghia.
holic atmosphere of those bygone days can still be inhaled. Their warehouse must have been truly grand!
Halfway along Vlamingstraat is the elegant City Theatre 33 on your left. This
royal theatre (1869) is one of Europe’s best-preserved city theatres. Behind the
eclectic façade lies a palatial auditorium and a regal foyer. Papageno, the bird

38 39
Beyond Oosterlingenplein is Woensd- THE LITTLE BEAR OF BRUGES
agmarkt. Hans Memling’s statue When Baldwin with the Iron Arm, the first Count of Flanders, visited Bruges for the
takes centre stage here. Turn right first time, the first creature he saw was a big brown bear. According to legend, all
into Genthof. this happened in the 9th century. After a fierce fight the count succeeded in killing
Here the second of two authentic me- the animal. In homage to the courageous beast he proclaimed the bear to be the
dieval wooden housefronts draws city’s very own symbol. Today the bear in the niche of the Burghers Lodge is festively
attention. Notice that each floor juts rigged out during exceptional celebrations.
out a little more than the next one.
This building technique, which helped
to avoid water damage, was conse-
quently used in various architectural
styles.

Continue along Academiestraat.


Burgundian Manhattan Right on the corner with Jan van
Proceed to Jan van Eyckplein. Eyckplein is another remarkable construction, distinguished by its striking tow-
THE CORRECT TIME This was Burgundian Bruges’ Man- er. This is Burgher’s Lodge 28 , a kind of 15th-century private club where promi-
A gleaming terrestrial globe proudly hattan, the place to be! Here ships nent burghers of Bruges could mix socially with foreign merchants. Hidden in
sits on top of Boechoute, the house docked, cargoes were loaded and un- a niche of this Burghers Lodge is the little Bruges Bear, one of the city’s most
on the corner. This building from loaded and tolls were levied. In this important symbols.
1477 with its original lean-to-roof is unremitting hustle and bustle a ca-
now the Meridian 3 tearoom. When cophony of languages was heard Proceed to Grauwwerkersstraat. The little square connecting Academiestraat with
the Brussels to Bruges railway line above the din, the one sounding even Grauwwerkersstraat has been known as ‘Beursplein’ since time immemorial.
was inaugurated, not all clocks in louder than the other. What a sound- Here merchants were engaged in high-quality trade. The warehouses of Genoa
Belgium were found to keep the track! Each business transaction re- (later renamed Saaihalle and today Frietmuseum) 04 , Florence (now De Floren-
same time. The shortcoming was quired a few local sounds too, of tijnen restaurant) and Venice (now De Slegte bookshop) once stood here side by
cured by the globe. At noon exactly course, as there always had to be a side like brothers. In front of Huis ter Beurze (1276), the central inn 24 , mer-
the sun coincided with its shadow Bruges broker present who would chants from all over Europe used to gather to arrange business appointments
through a hole in the globe. The line naturally pocket his cut. On the cor- and conduct exchange transactions. The Dutch word for stock exchange became
that was thus drawn can still be ner 16th-century Huis De Roode ‘beurs’, derived from the name of the house. Many other languages would take
traced today thanks to a string of Steen has been sparkling in all its over this term, such as French (bourse) or Italian (borsa).
copper nails. glory since its restoration in 1877. At
numbers 1-2 is the Old Tollhouse Turn into Grauwwerkersstraat and stop immediately in your tracks.
(1477) 38 , where all tollage was set- The side wall of Huis ter Beurze, and more precisely the part between the two sets
tled. To the left of this monumental building is Pijndershuisje, Bruges’ narrowest of ground-floor windows, bears the signatures of the stonemasons. This way every-
dwelling. The house belonged to a pijnder or docker, a name that you can easily body knew which mason cut which stones and which mason remained to be paid.
derive from its telling façade, that is if you keep your eyes peeled. The hunched pi- The house next-door to Huis ter Beurze, called the Little Beurze, still sits on its
jnders were employed to load and unload sacks and casks. original street level.

40 41
PRINSENHOF GOSSIP
> As Philip the Fair hadn’t yet laid eyes on his future wife, he sent Jan van Eyck to
Portugal to paint her portrait. This way the duke wanted to make certain he had
made the right choice. The duke’s ploy worked, because history teaches us that
the couple had a happy marriage.
> Although the popular Mary of Burgundy incurred only a minor fracture due to
her fall off her horse, the accident would eventually lead to her death at Prin-
senhof. Back in those times there was no cure for inflammation.
> During the recent hotel renovation no fewer than 568 silver coins, minted between
1755 and 1787, were dug up. After some careful counting and calculations it is
assumed that the energetic English nuns entrusted the coins to the soil so as to
prevent the advancing French troops from stealing their hard-earned capital.

19 29

Turn left into Naaldenstraat. Flanders), which represents a noblewoman on horseback, was designed by
On your right, Court Bladelin 20 with its attractive tower looms up ahead. In the the Belgian sculptor Jules Lagae.
15th century, treasurer of the Order of the Golden Fleece Pieter Bladelin, portrayed
above the gate whilst praying to the Virgin Mary, leased his house to the Florentine At the end of Geerwijnstraat turn right into Geldmuntstraat.
banking family of de Medici, who set up one of their branches here. Today the edifice The walk’s finishing point is Prinsenhof.
belongs to the Sisters of Our Lady of Seven Sorrows. We highly recommend you to We end the walk on a highlight. Prinsenhof used to be the palace of the counts
ring at the door between 10 a.m. and noon or between 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. The sisters and dukes. This impressive mansion, originally seven times the size of what you
will allow you to have a peek inside, so that you can admire the magnificent court- see today, was erected in the 15th century by Philip the Fair to celebrate his (third)
yard garden and the city’s first renaissance façade, embellished with two stone me- marriage to Isabel of Portugal. When Philip the Bold remarried Margaret of York,
dallions representing Lorenzo de Medici and his wife Clarissa Orsini. a swimming pool and a zoological garden were added to the ducal residence.
It is no surprise that Prinsenhof not only became the favourite pied-à-terre of
Somewhat further along, next to another ornamental tower, turn right into Boter- the Dukes of Burgundy, but also the nerve centre of their political, economic and
huis, a winding cobbled alley that catapults you back straight into the Middle Ages. cultural ambitions. Both Philip the Fair (d.1467) and Mary of Burgundy (d.1482)
Keep right, pass Saint James’s Church and turn left into Moerstraat. breathed their last here. After the death of the popular Mary of Burgundy the
The Dukes of Burgundy and the vast majority of foreign merchants patronised palace’s fortunes declined, until it eventually ended up in private hands. In the
Saint James’s Church 19 . Their extravagant gifts have left their glittering mark 17th century English nuns converted it into a boarding school for girls of well-
on the interior. to-do parents. After the nuns had gone, the complex changed ownership many
times. Today Prinsenhof belongs to the Kempinski hotel chain, which turned it
into Bruges’ first five-star hotel. Non-residents are allowed to have a look inside.
Prinsenhof (the Princes’ Court),
home base of the Dukes of Burgundy
Turn left into Geerwijnstraat and carry on to Muntplein.
Muntplein (Coin Square) belongs to nearby Prinsenhof 29 . As you might have
guessed, this was where Bruges’ mint was situated. Flandria Nostra (Our

42 43
» START Choco-Story
(Wijnzakstraat)
» DISTANCE 4 km
» FINISH Café Vlissinghe
in Blekersstraat

Strolling through 17

silent Bruges
Although the parishes of Saint Anne and Saint Giles are
known as places of great tranquillity, the fact that they are
off the beaten track does not mean that the visitor will be
short of adventure. How about a row of nostalgic windmills?
Or perhaps some unpretentious working-class neighbour-
hoods or a couple of exclusive gentlemen’s clubs?
Will you be able to absorb all these impressions serenely?
Don’t worry. After the tour we invite you to recover your
breath in Bruges’ oldest café!

44 45
21 17

From Choco-Story to Gouden-Handstraat Saint Giles’s, home base of workmen and artists
Choco-Story (Wijnzakstraat 2) 41 is the perfect starting point for the longest Cross the bridge, turn right along Spiegelrei and turn into Gouden-Handstraat,
walk in this visitors guide. The museum of chocolate not only dips you in the yum- the fourth street on your left.
my history of chocolate and cocoa, it also offers extensive chocolate tasting. If you In the 15th century Gouden-Handstraat and the parish of Saint Giles were
wish, you can also buy your supplies here. No doubt the chocolate will help you to known as the artists’ quarter. Hans Memling may have lived a few streets fur-
keep up a brisk pace! Master confectioner Dominique Persoone reveals even ther down in Sint-Jorisstraat, the fact of the matter is that Jan van Eyck had a
more chocolate mysteries on page 78. Fancy some more attractions at the same studio in Gouden-Handstraat, and that his somewhat lesser known colleagues
address? Lumina Domestica 43 contains the world’s largest collection of lamps also used to congregate in this neighbourhood.
and lights. The museum also houses 6,000 antiques.
Turn right into Sint-Gilliskerkstraat.
Turn left into Sint-Jansstraat, carry on to Korte Ridderstraat This street bumps into Saint Giles’s Church 17 in the heart of the tranquil quar-
and turn left to Sint-Maartensplein. ter of Saint-Giles’s. Initially a chapel, this house of God was upgraded to a parish
Saint Walburgha’s Church 21 rises up in all its magnificence right in front of you. church in 1258. In spite of its interior in Gothic revival style and its superb paint-
This baroque edifice (1619-1642) boasts a remarkable marble communion rail ings, the church takes on the appearance of a simple, sturdy village church. Don’t
and high altar. In summer, glorious classical music recitals are offered free to be misled. In and around the church countless famous painters were buried, such
church visitors. At number 4 is the erstwhile Scottish warehouse. as Hans Memling (d.1494), in his time the best paid painter, Lanceloot Blondeel
(d.1561) and Pieter Pourbus (d.1564). Their graves and the cemetery may have
Continue down Koningstraat to the bridge. disappeared, but their artists’ souls still hovers in the air.
This bridge, which connects poetic Spinolarei with Spiegelrei, affords a lovely
view of Oud Huis Amsterdam on your left. Today this historic town house is an el- Walk around the church and turn into Sint-Gilliskoorstraat.
egant hotel. This area used to be mainly populated by the English and Scots. The Although the workmen’s dwellings in these streets are rather small, they never-
English merchants even had their own steegere or stair where their goods were theless display a bricked up window. As it happened, a tax on windows was levied
unloaded. The stair is still there, and the street connecting it is appropriately in 1800. As a consequence, a large number of windows were walled up.
called Engelse Straat. The dignified white school building across the bridge was
once a college of English Jesuits.

46 47
BRUGES AND THE SEA
For centuries, Potterierei ensured the city’s wealth. This canal ran to Damme where it
was connected to a large lock, called ‘Speie’, which in turn was connected to the Zwin,
a deep sea channel and tidal inlet. While Damme developed into an outport, Bruges
grew into Northwestern Europe’s greatest business centre of the Middle Ages. The
arts flourished, culture thrived, prosperity seemed to be set for all eternity. The tide
turned when Mary of Burgundy suddenly passed away. The relations between Bruges
and the Burgundians turned sour and the Burgundian court left the city. The foreign
merchants and their wealth followed in its wake. The Zwin silted up and Bruges lost
her privileged commercial position. The city thus fell into a deep winter sleep.

From Potterierei to the Ramparts (Vesten) throughout the centuries, is open to the public. It’s a well-hidden gem that’s
Turn right into Langerei at the end of the street. Cross lovely Snaggaardbrug, certainly worth a visit!
the first bridge you get to, and turn left into Potterierei. You will have to follow
the canal for some time. Carry on to the lock and turn right.
After a fair distance along
A This idyllic spot is where the canal Damse Vaart heads out across the other side of
Potterierei is Bruges’ Great
P the ring road towards the equally romantic town of Damme. It’s hard to believe that
Seminary at number 72 04
S this area around the canal was once a scene of great controversy. Up until the
on
o your right. A unique place Eighty Years’ War Bruges was connected to Sluis by way of Damme. Ambitious Na-
with
w a lush orchard and mead- poleon Bonaparte had the link with the tidal inlet of the Zwin, the natural prede-
ows
o with cows at pasture. cessor of the Damse Vaart, dredged by Spanish prisoners of war so as to create a
Between
B 1628 and 1642 a watercourse that would run all the way to Antwerp. His plan then was to develop
new Cistercian abbey was the port city of Antwerp into a naval base, which would enable him to avoid the
erected here, which later English sea blockade. Napoleon’s project left Damme cut in twain, even if the wild
on would achieve great fame plans of the Little General were never fully realised. When Belgium became inde-
for the wealth and erudition pendent in 1830, the new authorities stopped the project, which in the end would
of its occupants. During the French Revolution the abbey was brought under go no further than Hoeke, one of Damme’s boroughs. Today the low-traffic bicycle
public ownership, and the abbot and monks were chased away. The 17th- path skirting the canal is a most attractive route linking Bruges with Damme. The
century abbey buildings were first used as a military hospital and then as a trip is highly recommended, as it
military depot and a grammar school before they were eventually taken over traverses le plat pays, that flat country
by the Great Seminary in 1833. Up to the present day the Seminary has been made famous by Jacques Brel in the
training catholic priests here. moving song of that name. Imagine! In
m
Just a few yards further down at number 79 is the Hospitaalmuseum-Our Lady tthe middle of a unique polder landscape
of the Pottery 37 . Its history goes back to the 13th century. Diligent nuns used tthis truly poetic canal strip, bordered by
to treat pilgrims, travellers and the sick here. The Gothic church with its baroque llofty poplars bended down by eternal
interior and its rich collection of works of art, accumulated by the hospital westerly winds.
w

48 49
22

THE ARCHERS’GUILD: 165 MEN AND 1 QUEEN!


Although this used to be one of the poorer areas of the city for a very long time, the Bruges. And there’s more! Down below on your right is Verloren Hoek (Lost Cor-
district includes two exclusive clubs. A greater contradiction cannot be found! Are ner), now an authentic working-class district, but back in the 19th century an im-
you sitting comfortably out of harm’s way on the slope of Saint John’s House Mill? poverished neighbourhood with such a bad reputation that even the police didn’t
Then look down on your left. There is Saint George’s Guild, a fellowship of crossbow dare enter its streets.
men. Down on your right is Saint Sebastian’s Guild with its remarkably elegant tow-
er. This guild goes back more than six centuries, which makes it unique in the
world. The society numbers 165 male members exactly and one notable female Silent Bruges
member: the Queen of England. Ever since the exiled English king Charles II took Descend down the slope and turn right into Rolweg.
up residence in Bruges in the 17th century, the city and the British royal family have Right on the corner is the Bruggemuseum-Gezelle 22 , the birthplace of Guido
always been closely associated. Whenever the British royal family is on a state visit Gezelle (1830-1899), one of Flanders’ most venerable poets. On display are hand-
to Belgium, so the rumour goes, they first of all pop in at the Archers’Guild. written letters, writing material and a deliciously peaceful garden with an age-old
Corsican pine. Gezelle’s parents worked here as gardener and caretaker, in ex-
change for which, they and their family received free board and lodgings. Little
Guido grew up in these idyllic surroundings. He would eventually return to Brug-
Turn right and carry on along the verdant Ramparts, which surround es many years later and after many a peregrination. Upon his return he became
the city like a ring of green. curate of Saint Walburgha’s Church. He also took over the running of the English
In the 16th century more than thirty windmills were turning their sails here. To- Monastery (Carmersstraat 83-85), where he would die. These were his last
day only four are left. In the 18th century the millers stood by helplessly when words, reportedly: ‘I have so loved hearing the birds singing.’ Here, in this most
bread consumption took a dive and people started to consume more potatoes. verdant part of Bruges, we still know precisely what the priest and poet meant.
Eventually steam machines would take over the millers’tasks. The Bruggemuse-
um-Mills Koelewei Mill 25 and Saint John’s House Mill 32 are open to visitors. Turn into Balstraat, the second street on the left.
The miller will happily explain the workings of his mill, and he will gladly give a This picturesque working-man’s alley houses the Bruggemuseum-Folklore 27 .
milling demonstration, too. Make sure you climb the slope upon which Saint The 17th-century row of single-room dwellings, restored and converted into
John’s Mill (the third mill) is standing! The hill affords a fantastic panoramic view authentic artisans’ interiors such as a milliner’s, a confectioner’s and a small
of the city. This is the perfect spot to brush up on your amassed knowledge of classroom, will take you back to bygone days. The tower of the 15th-century Je-

50 51
07 16

rusalem Church 07 can easily be spotted from these premises. This exquisite With the church behind you turn left into Sint-Annakerkstraat
private church was commissioned by the Adornes, a prominent Bruges mer- and then right into Sint-Annarei.
chant family of Genovese origin. In 1470 Anselm Adornes collected one of his At the corner of the confluence of the two waterways one of Bruges’ most hand-
sons (the father had no fewer than sixteen children) in Padova before setting off some town houses is proudly showing off its rococo credentials. Sit yourself down
on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. Upon his return to Bruges Anselm decided to on a shady bench and enjoy this exceptional prospect.
build an exact copy of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The result can be said
to be remarkable, indeed! Retrace your steps for just a few yards and turn right into Blekersstraat
Next door to the church is the Lace Centre 24 . Here the young as well as the next to the bridge.
more experienced can take workshops as well as quick courses. The lace centre Café Vlissinghe at number 2 is undoubtedly Bruges’ oldest café. This has been a
has its own museum. Until fifty years ago the row of restored almshouses used to tavern since 1515. It is no surprise then that you will find oodles of ambiance
be inhabited by lace-makers. If you enter the museum during a lace-making here. It is therefore the perfect place to settle down and let the wonderful memo-
demonstration, then time will seem to have stood still all those years. ries of your walk slowly sink in. A local beer will be your ideal companion. Cheers!

At the crossroads turn right into Jeruzalemstraat, then, at the church,


left onto Sint-Annaplein.
The tiny square is dominated by the apparently simple church of Saint Anne 16 .
Her exterior may be austere, her interior on the other hand is one of Bruges’ most
splendid examples of baroque architecture. As this neighbourhood gradually
went upmarket, so did the church, naturally!

52 53
> Identikit
Name: Pieter Aspe
Date of Birth: 3 April 1953
Born in Bruges, lives in Blankenberge,
author of more than twenty-five
crime fiction novels with Bruges
as a backdrop.

Pierre Aspeslag (56) is his real name, a Aspe, born and bred in the historical
name he used until he was forty-two heart of the city, would probably never
years of age. It was only then that he de- have written a single book if he hadn’t
cided to become a writer. It was to be the held a very curious job. For eleven years

The Magic of Bruges start of an impressive career. For years


now Flanders has been under the spell
of the adventures of detective chief in-
he was the caretaker at the world-fa-
mous Chapel of the Holy Blood. This
13th-century Romanesque chapel con-
Bruges World Heritage City spector Van In and his girlfriend Han- tains the relic of the Holy Blood of Jesus
nelore. The television adaptations on Christ. The relic is supposed to have
Rudy Collier, former editor-in-chief of the Flemish quality newspaper De Mor- Flemish television have been a spectac- come to Bruges from Constantinople. It
gen, is now editor-in-chief of De Morgen Magazine, the newspaper’s Saturday ular success for five seasons, and suc- is only logical that countless stories
cess abroad is not far away. Indeed, the sprang up surrounding the fortunes of
supplement featuring photo-reportages, lifestyle, gastronomy and travel.
impressive series of more than twenty- the Holy Blood. Stories, for example,
Bruges is a feast for the eye: wherever you look, everything is five crime fiction novels has become im- about the Noble Brotherhood of the Holy
mensely popular in France, Italy and Blood (still in existence), which man-
of World Heritage class. Yet Shakespeare already knew: ‘There other countries, and the television se- aged to save the relic several times from
are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt ries is broadcast in Germany and the occupying forces. There is even a link
of in your philosophy’. Mysteries, secrets and machinations, Netherlands. Pieter Aspe, however, re- with the Knights Templar. Millions visit
mains modest, which is no surprise re- the chapel every year, amongst them
they’re all part and parcel of Bruges’ medieval past. No one ally, as most of his fellow townspeople many pilgrims from all around the
senses this more than Pieter Aspe, a native of the city and the are also somewhat self-effacing and in- globe. A man like Aspe had no choice
most successful crime writer in Belgium, boasting more than troverted. It is fair to say that the natives but to become impressed by it all.
are no loudmouths, even when they Pieter Aspe: ‘The atmosphere that
twenty-five thrillers starring detective chief inspector Van In. have much to shout about. reigned there can’t possibly be put into
Bruges, too, plays a major role in each book. This is Pieter words. You constantly feel the serene
Aspe, the man who sends out the enigmatic mix of mysterious
and contemporary Bruges to the farthest corners of the world. 55
mysticism, unique in the world. You be- Bosch and the Flemish Primitives, the
come one with that awesome history. To ever so quiet Beguinage, the chapel of
be honest, I felt really good all the years the Holy Blood, the Belfry, the painting
I worked there. It gave me the time and by Michelangelo in the Church of Our
the opportunity to dream, to think and to Lady, the canals, alleys and winding
use my imagination.’ Aspe shows a yel- streets, they have all received pride of
lowed decades-old book about a priest place in Aspe’s oeuvres. Aspe: ‘Bruges is
called Van Aken, who was a curate of the a fantastic backdrop for a crime novel. Unknown The visitor to Bruges will undoubtedly
chapel of the Holy Blood at the end of the I didn’t want to write stories that took Pieter Aspe: ‘In all these years, from my confirm that there is much room for fan-
19th century. There were rumours about place in locations that no one had ever childhood until now, I have seen Bruges tasy and mysticism. Delightful, lesser-
black masses and Satanism. A wonder- heard of. People not only remember the transform itself and change into a flour- known yet fascinating places such as
ful source of inspiration for someone crime, they also remember the place ishing place. The historical town centre the Jerusalem Church or the baroque
with the mind of a writer. where the crime was committed.’ and those wonderful canals that vein the Church of Our Lady of the Pottery can
Bruges plays such an important part in city used to be terribly neglected. Brug- stir the imagination no end. The Jerusa-
That’s why the most incredible murders his books that the city even has a special es did indeed breathe the atmosphere of lem Church could appear in the Da Vinci
and conspiracies take place against the Aspe Walk. It is an initiative the writer is Bruges-la-Morte, of a dead town, as the Code without any problem. A certain
backcloth of Bruges’ unique World Her- absolutely delighted with, mainly be- writer Georges Rodenbach set down in Anselmus Adornes once brought the
itage, for your entertainment only. Pieter cause the walk drops in on quite a few
Aspe: ‘In truth Bruges is almost a crime- hidden places that only he has discov- ‘Bruges is a terrific setting for writing thrillers.’
free city. But it is the contrast between ered and cherished, such as the home
fiction and reality that creates credibility. of his protagonist, detective chief in- the 19th century. The only visitors were designs of Jerusalem’s church of the
Innocuous places are the ideal location spector Van In. It is a dwelling in such an English children on a school trip or peo- Holy Sepulchre from the Holy Land. His
for gruesome crimes, such as a mass inconspicuous yet charming alley that ple who wanted to attend the procession descendants erected an accurate copy
murder inside the church of Saint- even natives think it doesn’t exist. Aspe: of the Holy Blood. Today everything has of the building. On entering, a creepy si-
James’s or the decapitation of the statue ‘The house is close to where I was born, changed. The canals have become, quite lence makes your hair stand on end.
of Guido Gezelle, Flander’s cherished near Vette Vispoort, where the poor rightly too, the pride and glory of the city, And it gets even creepier when you see
Heimat poet. The Lake of Love, the mu- used to live. Fatty fish (vette vis) was making sure that Bruges has earned her the mausoleum of Anselmus Adornes
seums exhibiting works by Hieronymus food for the needy only.’ description as the Venice of the North.’ and his wife, the altar adorned with

56 57
CITY

BRUGES FROM THE WATER murders naturally reminds oneself of


Best of Bruges
CARD

the world-famous adventures of in-


You really can’t say that you have spector Morse in Oxford. Although Pi-
seen Bruges if you haven’t been on eter Aspe can see the analogy, he in- by Pieter Aspe
a boat trip on her famous canals.
You will appreciate the city from a
sists he wasn’t in the least influenced. 1
completely different angle, and you Inspector Morse has a global reputation
will cruise past a few places that for his regular pub visits, but this repu- MY FAVOURITE SPOT
are only accessible to boats. Go tation is nothing compared to inspector ‘Minnewater Park (Lake of Love) takes me
aboard at one of five landing stages
Van In’s drinking habits. This man in- back to my childhood. When we were little
for a half-hour trip and some ex-
pert commentary from the skipper. variably dusts off his little grey cells and brats we used to force our way into the unin-
celebrates his solved crimes in the habited and somewhat dilapidated castle that
company of a few pints of Duvel. What’s once stood there on private land. The city
in a name? Duvel means devil! It is a bought the land in the seventies and trans-
strong blond beer with a lavish head formed it into a magnificent and bustling
that will force any foreigner to his municipal park. A bit further down is Canal
knees. Inspector Van In often lets his Island, where tourist coaches come and go.
Duvels loose in Vlissinghe, the oldest It is the ideal operating base from which
café in Bruges. In days gone by the café to explore the city.’
used to be a stopping place for stage-
Minnewater Park
coaches. Pieter Aspe: ‘I went to school
at the College of Saint-Leo’s opposite
the café. We sneaked in whenever we
skulls and bones and the burial niche, a had the opportunity.’ Let there be no 2 MY RESTAURANTS
replica of the Holy Sepulchre. Equally mistake: Pieter Aspe is a Burgundian. ‘For me the greatest revelation these past few
overpowering is the Hospital Church of Gastronomy is one of the temptations yyears has been De Refter, the bistro owned by
Our Lady of the Pottery, tucked away in that makes him come back to Bruges Michelin-starred chef Geert van Hecke. The food
M
the real silent Bruges off the beaten time and time again. To the three- tthere is as delicious as in his starred restaurant De
track, next to the Great Seminary. This is starred restaurant De Karmeliet for ex- Karmeliet, but at unbelievably affordable prices.
K
a must! Step inside and you will imme- ample, which by the way already fea- Otherwise I prefer somewhat plainer food, such as
O
diately experience the mysticism hidden tured in one of his books. Pieter Aspe at Mojo or De Willemijn. The natives and I go to that
a
behind and under the stones. It is in now finds himself on the brink of an in- popular
p restaurant for dishes they grew up with,
these places that any dark conspiracy in ternational breakthrough: four books of such
su as steaks or rabbit. De Wijngaert on the other
Pieter Aspe’s novels becomes more his are immensely popular in France, hand
ha serves the most mouth-watering grilled food,
than plausible. and Italy is to follow suit. If you happen whereas
wh Les Malesherbes is an excellent Southern
to see Frenchmen and Italians drink France-oriented
Fr bistro. As it is to be found in the
Duvel on a Bruges café terrace on a smallest
sm street of Bruges, which is in itself worth
The Oldest Café massive scale, then you’ll know they’ve seeing,
see you only have to blink once and you’ve missed
De Refter
The contrast between a tranquil histori- become followers of Aspe. Just like it. Only the natives know precisely where it is.’
cal city and proliferating crime and thousands of his Flemish compatriots.

58 59
MY CAFÉS
M MY SECRET TIP 5
‘D
‘During my school years I sneaked into café Vlissinghe ‘A no man’s land with a fantastic name is
3 whenever I had the opportunity. The café was situated
w Hemelrijk, meaning Kingdom of Heaven. It
opposite my school. I still go there regularly. It is the old-
o is a dirt track between blind walls, no more
est café in town and it still has a wonderful atmosphere.
e than a hundred and fifty metres long, off
De Reisduif is at the very least as popular. It is a tiny
D the Great Seminary. Fantastical and un-
p
place and as it is always packed to the rafters, it is the real. It’s as if you find yourself in another
ideal place to see and hear the authentic Bruggeling dimension. I was so captivated by it that I
(Brugean). ’t Terrastje lies outside the regular tourist gave it a cameo role in one of my books.
ccircuit, yet in a truly handsome and authentic neigh- Everything in Bruges is inspiration.’ Hemelrijk
Vlissinghe bourhood. As its name indicates, the tiny terrace is an
inviting place, especially after a night out. Although
Jerry’s Cigar Bar is in fact a tobacconist’s, it has a bar at the back where you can sip
some excellent rums and whiskies. Even the hot chocolate and coffee are not to be
sneezed at. Now and then I treat myself to an expensive cigar. Vuurmolen wel-
comes you day and night. No wonder it is one of Bruges’most popular cafés. When
I’m tired of peace and quiet, then café Vuurmolen is the place to be.’
PRACTICAL INFORMATION

MY SHOPPING LIST
Pieter Aspe’s Addresses
‘I try to resist collecting the often superb Tintin figurines, but sometimes the temp- Minnewater Park » De Refter, Molenmeers 2, tel. +32 (0) 50 44 49 00, open all
tation gets the better of me, and then I tear into Tintinshop. In order to keep my urge days, www.bistrorefter.com » Mojo, Schaarstraat 4, tel. +32 (0) 50 68 05 09,
under control, I now and then accept a figurine in exchange for an assignment. I call closed Tuesday and Monday, www.restomojo.tk » Willemijn, Gentpoortstraat
that work, not collecting. Another mania I try to resist is collecting old silver. I there- 51, tel. + 32 (0) 495 62 53 29, closed Tuesday evening, Wednesday and Thursday
fore find it always hard to pass by Alfa Papyrus. Although the name suggests a sta- » De Wijngaert, Wijngaardstraat 15, tel. +32 (0) 50 33 69 18, closed Wednesday,
tioner’s, it is actually an antique shop. I bought my wedding ring at Quijo’s, a jewel- www.wijngaert.com » Malesherbes, Stoofstraat 3-5, tel. +32 (0) 50 33 69 24,
ler’s who give brilliant professional advice. The jeweller has even enjoyed global re- closed Monday and Thursday » Café Vlissinghe, Blekerstraat 2, closed
nown with an exclusive diamond-cutting method. It was this man who got robbed in Monday and Tuesday, www.cafevlissinghe.be » De Reisduif, Langerei 30,
my first book. I naturally hope that this will never happen to him in real life! Bruges tel. +32 (0) 50 34 63 01, closed Wednesday and Thursday » ’t Terrastje,
wouldn’t be Bruges without some gastronomic temptations. You won’t find a better Genthof 45, tel. +32 (0) 50 33 09 19 » Jerry’s Cigar Bar, Simon Stevinplein 13,
caterer in or outside town than Deldycke. closed Sunday, www.jerrycigarbar.com » De Vuurmolen, Kraanplein 5,
The owner is an extremely charming per- 4 www.vuurmolen.com » Tin Tin Shop, Steenstraat 3, tel. +32 (0) 50 33 42 92,
son, which I really appreciate. Zucchero is www.tintinshopbrugge.be » Alfa Papyrus, Walplein 41, tel. +32 (0) 50 33 66 87,
a sweetshop where a young couple is still closed Sunday » Peter Quijo, Breidelstraat 18, tel. +32 (0) 50 34 10 10,
manufacturing toffees in a truly traditional closed Sunday, www.quijo.be » Deldycke Delicatessen, Wollestraat 23,
way, a process that you can follow through tel. +32 (0) 50 33 43 35, closed Tuesday, www.deldycke.be » Zucchero,
the shop window. They have created a very Mariastraat 18, tel. 032 (0) 50 33 39 62, closed Tuesday, www.confiserie-
special technique to hide the newborn ba- zucchero.be » Hemelrijk
by’s name inside the sugared almonds.
Truly ingenious.’
Tintinshop 61
> Identikit
Name: Till-Holger Borchert
Date of Birth: 4 January 1967
Chief curator of the Groeninge
Museum. He is also the author
of countless publications
on the Flemish Primitives.

A Formidable Magnet spect and tolerance still pervades the


‘Bruges is a uniquely beautiful city. It is city today. I must say it is a great joy to be
also a wonderfully livable place, partly here. The countless inhabitants and vis-
because of the clever and careful way in itors will surely fully agree with me.’

A Spotlight on which the city has been able to mix her


medieval character with a modern am-
A Woman From Around
Central Europe biance. For sure, I have discovered my-
self abundantly that Bruges is no isolat-
ed locality. Indeed, the Flemish Primi-
the Corner
‘Nearly every day I go and greet two
Till-Holger Borchert explores tives were of the same conviction all masterpieces: Jan van Eyck’s Madonna
those centuries ago. Bruges was a for- With Canon Van der Paele at the Groe-
Flemish artistic influence in Europe midable magnet for artists. As early as ninge Museum and Hans Memling’s
the 13th century, the concentration of Madonna and Maarten van Nieuwenhove
Laurens de Keyzer is a columnist with De Standaard and the author
wealthy citizens enabled Bruges to be- at the Hospitaalmuseum-Memling in
of diverse journalistic and literary publications.
come the commercial heart of north- Sint-Jan, one of the very few diptychs
western Europe. In the 15th century, the from that time whose two tablets have
He was born in Hamburg, he lives in Brussels, and he
Burgundian authorities took successful
thoroughly enjoys his work in Bruges as he finds himself structural measures which resulted in
surrounded by six centuries of fine arts, and especially an increase of the population, an inter-
the magnificent masterpieces of the Flemish Primitives. vention that strengthened the city’s de-
velopment in no uncertain way. And last
In 2002 Till-Holger Borchert was one of the curators of
but not least, Bruges is of course a well-
Bruges, Cultural Capital of Europe. Today he is chief preserved city, as it suffered far less
curator of the Groeninge Museum and the Arentshuis. than other towns from the iconoclastic
‘Every day I go and greet two masterpieces in this city.’ fury in the 16th century. That spirit of re-

62
The tomb of Charles the Bold isn’t
the only attraction of the Welcome
Church of Our Lady. Mary of Bur-
gundy, Charles’ daughter and only
child, lies buried in its crypt. She
was barely twenty-five years old
when she died after falling from her
horse when hawking. The face on
her coffin was modelled after her
death mask. The metal casket with
the heart of her son Philip the Fair
is exhibited in the choir aisle.

never been separated. I will be the last therefore understandable to a modern- than with Jan van Eyck. It is first and to Dürer’, an exhibition that runs from
to admit that I find something new and day observer. The Flemish Primitives foremost the intellectual and concep- 29 October 2010 to 30 January 2011.
exciting every time I admire these mas- discovered the individual. Quite a feat. tual element of Van Eyck’s or Memling’s ‘The idea has developed from two
terpieces. Yet, as my curiosity remains Those Flemish painters were also dab work that I find most poignant. When- events in fact: on the one hand our own
as great as my enjoyment, I find myself hands at solving the problems of mate- ever I see how Van Eyck is able to come exhibition for Bruges 2002, on the oth-
constantly looking up as much as I pos- rials, colour and space. They explored up with solutions for, say, the painting’s er hand the expansion of the European
sibly can about these fascinating works space in an incredibly skilful and so- composition, he takes my breath away. Union towards the east. At our 2002
of art. I sometimes wonder why people phisticated way, for example by placing Yet, it is above all Van der Weyden who exhibition, which featured the Flemish
from all corners of the world have al- a mirror somewhere in the room. In excites the spectator. He excites me as Primitives and the Mediterranean
ways found the Flemish Primitives so Memling’s diptych, which I have just well. Van der Weyden and Van Eyck may world, we wanted to increase our un-
absorbing. The answer perhaps lies in mentioned, a round mirror on the left- be poles apart, but both masters give us derstanding of the impact of Early
the fact that for the very first time in art hand side behind the Madonna reflects so much pleasure that they alone make Dutch painting on artistic development
history we are confronted with recog- the interior she is sitting in. In it, her a visit to Bruges’ chamber of treasures in Southern Europe. When I measure
nisable people and familiar objects that own silhouette is painted just a whisker more than worthwhile.’ the renewed art-historical and aca-
correspond to today’s reality. Even a away from the silhouette of the patri- demic interest in this subject matter,
Madonna seems to look like the woman cian Maarten van Nieuwenhove, Mem- then I can state with a certain degree
from around the corner, a woman that ling’s patron. Truly magnificent. Van Eyck & Dürer as of pride that we have succeeded in
we all know and remember. In other Are these works of art still capable of Benchmark Figures achieving our aim. The critics and the
words, the Flemish Primitives laid the moving me? Absolutely. But I admit I As a prestigious component of the city public were full of praise too.
foundation of an artistic concept that in experience more of a purely emotional festival ‘Bruges Central’, the Groenin- Now we are focusing on Europe to the
its realism is perfectly recognisable and reaction with Rogier van der Weyden ge Museum presents ‘From Van Eyck east and north of Flanders. We already

64 65
CITY

MUSEUMSHOP
Best of Bruges
CARD

‘Whoever enters the museum shop


of the Groeninge Museum will leave by Till-Holger Borchert
with some wonderful memories,
that I can assure you. Perhaps you
will take home your favourite art
treasures in that handsomely illustrat- MY FAVORITE SPOT 1
ed book or as a reproduction on a post- ‘The great churches of Bruges
er maybe, or depicted on a few picture
postcards. And why don’t you surprise possess wonderful art collec-
yourself with an original souvenir? tions, containing pieces that
I have caught not only some of my wouldn’t disgrace any topflight
delighted fellow curators buying just museum. Don’t forget to look
such a present for themselves,
but my wife as well!’ up at the tower of the Church of
Our Lady. It is, with its 122 me-
tres, the tallest brick building in
the world. When in Saint Sav-
iour’s, do go and marvel at the Mausoleum of the de Gros family
knew that Early Dutch painting had an the East. This enabled us to gain a firm frescoes in the baptistery. And
enormous impact on the artistic devel- foothold in countries that for a consid- Saint James’ Church is worth
opment in 15th-century Central, East- erable time have been almost beyond its while for the impressive mausoleum of the De Gros family, because this sculptur-
ern and Northern Europe. Although our scope. Romania comes to mind. al masterpiece reveals par excellence the self-confidence and power of the Burgun-
these influences have been recognised The expansion ensures a greater im- dian elite, of whom dozens of representatives lie buried here.’
for quite some time already, up to now, pact of our exhibition, not just for our-
they have mainly been discussed with selves, but also for our eastern neigh-
regard to individual masters or in the bours. It offers many museums, main- MY RESTAURANTS
context of specific regions. We are now ly those in Eastern Europe, their first ‘I once saw a German restaurant critic copying the complete menu at Den Amand.
looking into their interchange and in- chance to present their own master- Need I say more? I took the opportunity of recommending the chicory soup to my
teraction in their entirety for the very pieces in a truly international context. fellow countryman at the 15th-century Cafedraal, the regional dishes and the
first time. Our spotlight is on the East, I therefore expect not only many visi- Karmeliet on draught at ’t Schrijverke,
K
with Jan van Eyck and Albrecht Dürer tors, but also many new visitors, peo- and an exotic moment at the refined table
a
as benchmark figures. We are showing ple who will discover the magnificent 2 of the Japanese restaurant Tanuki. The
o
this as a multimedia story, because in- city of Bruges by way of magnificent man is still talking about his experience!
m
novative trends were also circulating medieval and renaissance art’. I didn’t need to show him the way to Den
through drawings and prints. Gouden Harynck, as he had known about
G
All in all, this exhibition is even more All practical information on tthis restaurant for quite some time al-
ambitious than the one in 2002. What’s the Bruges Central festival rready. His choice didn’t suprise me, of
more, we had the good fortune to see can be found on page 8. ccourse, because it is one of the most de-
the expansion of the European Union to llightful gourmet restaurants in the region.’
Den Amand

66 67
MY CAFÉS MY SECRET TIP
‘The Celtic Ireland breathes ‘Whenever I want to take a breather, I saunter down
5
a pleasant international Saint Anne’s, Bruges’ most striking working-class
ambiance, and they’re neighbourhood. You can still sense the charm of an au-
always having a ball there. thentic community in the streets around the Folklore
I also like to drop by The Museum. It goes without saying that it is very peaceful
Druid’s Cellar, if only to see there at night, a very rare occurrence in a city like Brug-
Drew at work, my favourite es. The area boasts many fascinating places, too. Off the
barman. De Lokkedize is cuff, if I may: Our Lady of the Pottery, the Lace Centre,
3 most atmospheric and with- medieval Jerusalem Church and the Gezelle Museum.’
The Celtic Ireland Jerusalem Church
in a stone’s throw from the
Concert Hall, so ideal for
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
an after-concert drink or
a chat with the musicians. Den Express at the railway station is tailor-made
for travellers such as me, because I can happily smoke a cigarette there and
Till-Holger Borchert’s Addresses
drink my last cup of coffee before I jump on the train. And if I yearn for a popular Den Amand, Sint-Amandsstraat 4,tel. +32 (0)50 34 01 22, closed at Dinnertime
Belgian beer, then you can find me at Hollandse Vismijn. Cheers!’ on Sunday and on Wednesday » Cafedraal, Zilverstraat 38, tel. +32 (0)50 34
08 45, closed Sunday, www.cafedraal.be » ’t Schrijverke, Gruuthusestraat 4,
tel. +32 (0)50 33 29 08, closed Monday, www.tschrijverke.be » Tanuki,
Oude Gentweg 1-3, tel. +32 (0)50 34 75 12, closed Monday and Tuesday,
www.tanuki.be » Den Gouden Harynck, Groeninge 25, tel. +32 (0)50 33 76 37,
MY SHOPPING LIST closed Sunday and Monday, www.dengoudenharynck.be » The Celtic Ireland,
‘Music shop Rombaux sells listening treasures in all genres, and the shop has Burg 8, www.celticireland.be » The Druid’s Cellar, Sint-Amandstraat 11B,
so much character that it is a real joy to go and browse there. I buy my socks at www.thedruidscellar.eu » De Lokkedize, Korte Vulderstraat 33, closed
Parallax. They’re past masters, too, at stylishly camouflaging my beer belly. Monday and Tuesday, www.lokkedize.be » Den Express, Stationsplein
The antiquarian bookshop of » Hollandse Vismijn, Vismarkt 4, closed Tuesday » Muziekhandel Rombaux,
Marc van de Wiele offers one Mallebergplaats 13, closed Sunday and Monday morning, www.rombaux.be
of the best art and history se- » Kleding Parallax, Zuidzandstraat 17, closed Sunday, www.parallax.be
lections in the whole country. » Antiquariaat Van de Wiele, Sint-Salvatorskerkhof 7, closed Sunday, www.
4
Reading matters of a different marcvandewiele.com » Boekhandel De Reyghere, Markt 12, closed Sunday,
kind are found at De Reyghere, www.dereyghere.be » De Striep, Katelijnestraat 42, www.striepclub.be
where the tourist immmedi- » Museumshop, Arentshof, Dijver 16, closed Monday, www.museabrugge.be
ately feels at home in a sea » Bruggemuseum-Volkskunde, Balstraat 43, closed Monday, www.
of foreign newspapers. And museabrugge.be » Bruggemuseum-Gezelle, Rolweg 64, closed Monday,
then there is De Striep for www.museabrugge.be » Our Lady of the Pottery – Hospitaalmuseum,
contemporary comic strip art, Potterierei 79, closed Monday, www.museabrugge.be » Jerusalem Church
of course.’ Musi
and Lace Centre, Peperstraat 3, closed Sunday and public holidays,
c Shop Rombaux
www.kantcentrum.com

68 69
> Identikit
Name: Maud Bekaert
Date of Birth: 11 September 1976
Born in Bruges where she lives
and works Letter sculptress with
her own city centre art studio

It is in Maud Bekaert’s nature to get mer on the head. I became a fan there
stuck in letters and literature. Occa- and then, and I have since learned to
sionally she will attend a classical look at the movement of the stationary
concert, too. But Bruges 2002 certain- body. Sometimes standing still moves

Bruges: Defiantly, ‘The softness that hits you like a hammer on the head.’
Surprising, Seductive ly broadened her horizon, as it did for me more than the movement itself.
Sampling culture in Bruges so many of her fellow townsmen and And I have to admit that I have attend-
townswomen. ‘When I saw Anne-Tere- ed many a dance spectacle ever since,
Journalist, author and globetrotter Pierre Darge toured ninety-five countries. sa de Keersmaecker’s company Rosas especially since contemporary dance
He is the editor of the Flemish lifestyle magazine Weekend Knack. at the Concertgebouw, I felt shaken to performances have definitely come to
the core. I had gone in as a music lov- the fore in Bruges. Dance is an art
er, and a few hours later I came out as
Maud Bekaert is a cultural jack-of-all-trades who has a dance devotee. Although the danc-
achieved great fame chiseling letters in stone. She is also ers looked quite ordinary in their jeans
and T-shirts, they put on an incredibly
an avid customer of Bruges’ rich cultural life, which has beautiful spectacle. They taught me
that the body can be represented in
grown considerably since 2002 and the opening of the
many different beautiful ways, even if
Concertgebouw (Concert Hall). A young native of Bruges not every movement was smooth and
flowing. It was the continuity that
on calligraphy, the festival Klinkers, the effervescent dance amazed me the most. There was a
scene and the charm of the Minnewater Park at dusk. softness that could hit you like a ham-

70 71
CHISELLING STONE

If you want to watch Maud Bekaert’s


subtle artistry, you’re welcome to
enter her studio on Sint-Clarastraat 40
in the heart of the city. Whilst chisel-
ling away at the stone for a few hours,
she’s gladly willing to take orders
from her clients.

form I wasn’t familiar with. I have al- ance on the spur of the moment, of the canals send me into raptures, and
ways loved flamenco and fado though, somebody I have never heard of, or that’s why I often go out after ten
and each year I take the opportunity to perhaps just because the evening is o’clock at night to enjoy the floodlit
go and watch a dance performance at so balmy and because I want to be housefronts and the intimate stillness
the ‘Klinkers festival’. There is no pleasantly surprised by an unknown along the canals’.
shortage of dancing in summer, and artist. The summer in Bruges is ex-
as the festival takes place at the city’s tremely musical, indeed.’ Maud used
loveliest locations, I can’t think of a to enjoy classical music in dribs and Calligraphy Set in Stone
better way to enjoy an exceptional and drabs. Again, Bruges 2002 changed In the meantime Bruges has become
intimate performance. I remember her habit. ‘I think the Concertgebouw the throbbing heart of this country’s
being awestruck during Misia, a fado is an architectural gem, and already Waterside treasures calligraphy. ‘Many a famous calligra-
spectacle based on texts by Federico exceptional just because of its use of Maud Bekaert is above all an avid con- phist has settled here, not in the least
García Lorca.’ space and light. Of course, since Jos sumer of visual experiences. As a con- because the city has taken a great
van Immerseel took up residence sequence she tirelessly roams around number of initiatives. It gives Bruges
there with his ensemble Anima Eter- Bruges in search of the beautiful and an extra dimension. My joy lies in small
Musical summer na, the whole thing gained momen- the distinctive. ‘I can intensely soak up things: the chiseled house numbers,
“The ‘Klinkers festival’ puts a smile on tum. I am moreover a great lover of the beauty of the old houses this city the names of the hotels or the station-
the summer in Bruges. If the weather Bach, and though the Concertge- has such an abundance of. And I am er’s shop in Oostmeers where I buy my
is fine, a southern atmosphere sud- bouw’s setting makes an overpower- privileged, too, that I am allowed to material or greeting cards. But I also
denly sweeps the city. I grab the op- ing impression on me, I thoroughly gain admittance to many an interior. find intense enjoyment in the grandeur
portunity to go and attend a perform- enjoy the music, too.” The facades of the houses mirrored in of Michelangelo’s statue in the Wel-

72 73
CITY

POETRY IN DOUBLE TIME


Best of Bruges
CARD

This new project combines poetry with


plastic art at historical sites in Saint- by Maud Bekaert
Anne’s. Poems from the 19th and 20th
century are presented visually and
aurally, while sculptors set to work
with linguistic themes. Guido Gezelle,
who was the experimental poet par
excellence before the term even 1
existed, is the source of inspiration
for the participating artists.
MY FAVOURITE SPOT
M
23 January – 23 May 2010, ‘I just love the Beguinage at dusk, when this
www.dubbeltijd.be.
peaceful enclosed place takes on a nostalgic air.
p
This is an oasis of restfulness where the volume
T
iis turned down quite drastically and the city
come Church of Our Lady or a summa- historical context with contemporary noises are muffled. It’s heaven on earth.’
n
ry film on the beach at Zeebrugge or in art, and you have to conclude that
Astridpark. Bruges is definitely a place Bruges is very much alive. What’s
that endlessly provokes and seduces more, the whole event takes place in
her visitors and citizens.’ Saint-Anne’s, my favourite neigh- Beguinage
bourhood. Peacefulness is so perfect 2
here that you can almost touch it,
Thrilling Confrontations even if many natives have yet to dis-
Bruges likes to give a hearty welcome cover that.
to new projects such as Poetry in The confrontation of the ancient tree
Double Time. I expect this initiative by in the garden of the Bruggemuseum- MY RESTAURANTS
‘I have a great time at Heer Halewijn be-
cause of its honest cuisine based on deli-
‘Bruges is the throbbing heart of calligraphy.’ cious grilled meat, its summer terrace
and its cosy fireplace in winter. Quatre
Gwy Mandelinck to develop into an ex- Gezelle with the contemporary works Mains for a light lunch on the cosy terrace
citing opportunity for the visitor to ex- of art by Jan Fabre have always creat- at the back, and De Twijfelaar for creative
perience how images and texts find ed a unique atmosphere. That monu- food. De Lotus serves the most delicious
ways to communicate with one anoth- mental buildings such as the English vegetarian dishes. Their lunch is excel-
er and how each artist responds to Monastery and the Great Seminary lent, too. And for that special occasion?
this challenge. Sometimes an image also throw open their doors, is a I opt fot the intimacy of Chez Olivier’s el-
adds something to a text and vice ver- chance that is not to be missed. egant white interior. The restaurant is in
sa. Add to that the combination of a one of Bruges’s beauty spots, by the way.’ Chez Olivier

74 75
MY CAFÉS MY SECRET TIP
‘In summer I am simply mad about the ‘The photo of Dirk Braeckman at the
3 terrace of De Republiek. It’s blissfully at-
ter Concertgebouw soaked in concrete is
mospheric. I also appreciate Stokershu-
mo truly impressive. The photographer re-
is ffor their French chansons, the classi- veals as no other the essence of things
cal music and the good old-fashioned
ca by leaving out layers, even if the inter-
pubby ambiance. De Stoepa is my fa-
pu viewer is required to make an effort to
vourite place for a chat and a cocktail on
vo see that. But what a reward when he is
their heavenly pleasant terrace. De
th hit by new insights and new angles!’
Kleine Nachtmuziek is a divine café
K
with a soul, and if I want to stay and talk
w 5
about some show or spectacle I have
a
just attended, then I definitely head for
ju
tthe Café at the Concertgebouw.’ Photo of Dirk Braeckman

w
Café at the Concertgebou

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

MY SHOPPING LIST
Maud Bekaert’s Addresses
4
‘Raaklijn is a bookshop with a wonderful array of Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaarde, Begijnhof 24-28-30, www.monasteria.
art books and an extensive and idiosyncratic se- org » Heer Halewijn, Walplein 10, tel. +32 (0)50 33 92 20 » Quatre Mains,
lection. I never leave without something. I also Philipstockstraat 8, tel. +32 (0)50 33 56 50, closed Sunday and Monday, www.
love Kin Gin, a jeweller’s studio that sells it’s own 4mains.com » De Twijfelaar, Eeckhoutstraat 24, tel. +32 (0)50 34 15 44, closed
creations in beautiful surroundings. De Krokodil, Sunday and Monday, www.detwijfelaar.be » De Lotus, Wapenmaker-straat 5,
too, is very dear to me, not only because they sell tel. +32 (0)50 33 10 78, closed Sunday, www.lotus-brugge.be » Chez Olivier,
wonderful and original toys here, from picture Meestraat 9, tel. +32 (0)50 33 36 59, closed Thursday, Sunday and Saturday
books to wooden doll’s houses, but also because lunch » De Republiek, Sint-Jakobsstraat 36, www.derepubliek.be » Het
I sometimes treat myself to a trinket under the Stokershuis, Langestraat 7, closed Tuesday and Wednesday » De Stoepa,
disguise of a birthday present. De Schacht is the Oostmeers 124, closed Monday, www.stoepa.be » De Kleine Nachtmuziek,
perfect stationer’s. Yes, I buy my pencils and paper Sint-Jakobsstraat 60, closed Tuesday and Wednesday » Concertgebouwcafé,
and charcoal there, but I also love the excellent ’t Zand, closed Sunday and Monday, www.concertgebouw.be/cafe » Raaklijn,
advice, and I sometimes pop in just for the fun of it! Sint-Jakobsstraat 7, closed Sunday, www.boekhandelraaklijn.be » Kin Gin,
And when shopping at De Laurier, I marvel at the Ezelstraat 27, closed Sunday and Monday » De Krokodil, Sint-Jakobsstraat 47,
De Laurier
ever-changing art, while my bananas and leeks closed Sunday, www.krokodil.be » De Schacht, Katelijnestraat 49, closed Sun-
are being wrapped.’ day, www.de-schacht.be » Bvba De Laurier, Langestraat 80, closed Monday

76 77
> Identikit > Identikit
Name: Dominique Persoone Name: Guido Francque
Date of Birth: 24 September 1968 Date of Birth: 29 November 1955
Born in Bruges where he works. Born in Assenede, he lives
Owner of The Chocolate Line and and works in Bruges.
chairperson of the Guild of Chocolate Food & wine consultant,
Confectioners of Bruges. author and teacher.

Dominique Persoone is the man who


had Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood snort
cocoa and who designed The Chocolate
Shooter just for that purpose. He

Flavourful squeezed a former Miss Belgium into a


chocolate corset and painted hundreds

Flemish Primitives of naked female bodies for a photo-


shoot with the American art photogra-
pher Spencer Tunick. Dominique Per-
Bruges, the Soft Centre soone is undoubtedly the most contro-
versial and most revolutionary choco-
of World Gastronomy late confectioner in the whole of Bel-
gium. A shock-o-latier, as he has be-
Toni de Coninck is editor-in-chief of UIT-Magazine, the lifestyle journal of
come known. brought unknown wine producing
the motoring and mobility organization VAB. He has been writing on tourism
Guido Francque calls himself a free- countries such as Greece and Portugal
and gastronomy for sixteen years.
and-easy food & wine consultant. It is, to the notice of wine aficionados.

Heston Blumenthal. Albert Adria. Sergio Herman. Peter


Goossens. At the beginning of 2009 some of the greatest ‘If you neglect the foundations of gastronomy,
international chefs made it abundantly clear why Bruges then you commit a serious blunder.’
can rightfully call itself the culinary capital of Belgium.
of course, a flag that covers innumer- A whole generation of young sommel-
Co-initiator Guido Francque and shock-o-latier Dominique able kinds of cargo. He was one of the iers and chefs has been conceived by
Persoone recount the success of The Flemish Primitives, very first great sommeliers in Belgium, his talent and passion.
the annual seminar on food pairing. he attacked many a sacred cow and he At the beginning of 2009 Guido co-initi-

78 79
CITY CITY
CARD
THE CHOCOLATE MUSEUM CARD
BELGIAN FRIES MUSEUM

The chocolate museum Choco- Together with delicious Belgian cho-


Story provides the visitor with a colate, Belgian fries are without any
choice selection of reference doubt the product par excellence that
books, production material and illustrates the Burgundian way of life
curiosities from the world of of every Belgian. Fries are not French,
chocolate. Dominique Persoone: as might be suspected by the English
‘I’m dead keen on the museum’s translation, but an authentic Belgian
antique books. Just unbelievable invention. It is therefore no more than
that you can browse through logical that the only genuine frites
Maya writings!’ museum in the world is the Belgian
Fries museum in Bruges.
Choco-Story, Wijnzakstraat 2,
8000 Bruges, tel. +32 (0)50 61 22 37, Frietmuseum, Vlamingstraat 33,
www.choco-story.be 8000 Bruges, tel. +32 (0)50 34 01 50,
www.frietmuseum.be

ated The Flemish Primitives, a commit a serious blunder.’ ple used household mixers and wooden
seminar on food pairing that Guido Francque, too, wants to nuance spoons. Today it is roners and pacojets
attracted a goodly number of the matter. ‘The problem with molecu- and thermomixers. It is a normal evolu-
national and international top lar gastronomy, which is in itself a bad- tion. I don’t send my e-mails by carrier
chefs. This event took place in ly-chosen name, is that many people pigeon either, now do I?’
the prestigious surroundings still believe in the tyranny of foams, ‘Top chefs such as the Adrias send out
of the Bruges Concert Hall. It turned Alchemy?
Al h ? smoke and salves. Ninety-five percent yet another signal,’ says Dominique.
into an unhoped-for success. ‘It is our Does this mean that the classic cook- of the experiments are badly-executed ‘They almost beg us not to copy their
intention to draw each year some more ery books by Escoffier and Cauderlier copycats of Adria and Blumenthal. You Spanish or Catalan dishes. It makes no
global attention to our top gastronomy, should be consigned to the wastepaper can’t just go and squeeze any ingredient sense whatsoever to promote Galician
and as a consequence to the city of basket? ‘During my brainstorming ses- into an espuma bottle and squirt it onto crustaceans when you have here in
Bruges too,’ says Guido. ‘Food pairing sions with Heston Blumenthal at his a plate. Many chefs seem to forget that a Zeebrugge the most succulent hand-
has been with us since time immemo- English three-starred restaurant The
rial, but it is among other things thanks Fat Duck,’ says Dominique Persoone, ‘The art of cooking that belongs
to The Flemish Primitives that it has ‘I’ve never heard anyone deny his clas-
acquired a scientific base. We are on sical roots and schooling. It’s just that to the top of our cultural heritage.’
the brink of the greatest culinary revo- molecular cuisine has initiated evolu-
lution since nouvelle cuisine, and we tion and revolution, a pattern that I, too, lot of thought must be involved if they shelled shrimps in the world. I believe
obviously want to explain to chefs all have integrated in my work as a choco- want to get it right. Molecular cooking is that Bruges handles all these new tech-
over the world how they can improve late confectioner. But if you neglect the a means to boost the purity of a product, niques very sensibly. In Bruges, the visi-
their cooking.’ foundations of gastronomy, then you not an end in itself. In earlier days peo- tor will find the most beautiful and most

80 81
BRUGSCH SWAENTJE

Fancy a bite of medieval gruut?


Best of Bruges
Brugsch Swaentje is a traditional
Bruges chocolate specially created
by Guido Francque
by the Guild of Chocolate Confection-
ers of Bruges. This delicacy consists
and Dominique Persoone
of almond praline, crispy gingersnap
and...gruut. A must for fine palates. 1
MY CULTURE TIP
Available at the majority of the
more than 50 Bruges’ chocolate Guido: From Memling to
confectioners! Look out for the Patteeuw. ‘I love art in all its
official-dealer poster.
forms. I can gawp for hours at
the Flemish Primitives at the
Memling museum and listen as
open-mouthed to contempo-
recent food pairings at many top restau- mestic and foreign chefs will be or- rary interpretations by Roland
rants. Yet he will just as well be able to ganised again in 2010. Its success ex- Patteeuw.’
rediscover great classics at the choco- ceeded all expectations: top-class Dominique: ‘Ever since my
late museum or Belgian fries museum.’ chefs such as Heston Blumenthal, childhood I have had great
Does it make any sense then to create Sergio Herman and Peter Goossens admiration for Gerard David’s Judgment of Cambyses. The painting hangs in the
a molecular recipe with chocolate or showed why their culinary skills be- Groeningemuseum. I remember vividly that I was mightily impressed by the man
fries? ‘Deep down I remain a sixteen- long to the top of our cultural heritage. being skinned alive in the centre of the picture.’
year-old rascal,’ Guido laughs. ‘Man al- Dominique Persoone, too, successful-
ways tries to explore the frontiers of his ly showcased his skills. Guido
field of study. There is nothing more Francque was one of the big names MY RESTAURANTS
scrumptious and savoury than a su- behind the scenes. The Flemish Prim- Guido: ‘Natives of Bruges tend to go to Kok au Vin, a bistro with a terrific homely
perbly cooked home-made vol-au- itives are ‘inspired by the inventive- atmosphere and an equally terrific price/quality ratio. If I have foreign guests, then
vent. But why object to deconstructing ness of the 15th-century painters with I invariably go and have some fries at one of the chippies at the foot of the Belfry.
that vol-au-vent and using its ingredi- the eponymous name’. Just as the Next day I take them to Den Dyver to savour some dishes made with beer. As far as
ents to create a 21st-century dish?’ Flemish primitives were to change top gastr
gastronomy is concerned, I’m just crazy
painting forever, these chefs set about about anything that strives for
their tasks in a multidisciplinary man- perfection, like Geert van Hecke’s
Primitive But Not Crazy 2
ner, too. Their love of the pure raw in- classic cuisine at De Karmeliet.’
At the beginning of 2009 Bruges con- gredient and their knowledge of clas- D
Dominique: ‘Revolutionary and
firmed her status as culinary capital sic cooking are refined by new tech- iinsanely delicious food: Filip Claeys
once more when the city hosted the niques and lashings of creativity. Why a
at De Jonkman. Le Menu Belge at
first edition of The Flemish Primitives. not discover all this in Bruges’ seven D
De Tuilerieën Hotel is very good, too,
This ground-breaking gastronomic Michelin-starred restaurants and the e
especially when you want to try
event attended by the cream of do- 357 other acclaimed restaurants? a
authentic Belgian classic dishes.’
De Karmeliet

82 83
MY CAFÉS 3 MY SECRET TIP
Guido: ‘Huyze Die Maene on Markt Guido: ‘One of the jewels of Bruges’ cultural heritage is authentic Bruges lace.
serves a perfectly brewed Illy ris- I always pop in at A.Pickery, where you can see and buy genuine centuries-old lace.’
tretto on their terrace. And what a Dominique: ‘Nearby the chocolate museum Choco-Story is Lumina Domestica. This
view you have with the Belfry as museum tells the story of lamps and lighting throughout the ages in a truly stunning
a backdrop and the comings and way. It’s unique in the world, and a real treat for children, too!’
goings of the horse carriages.
Brugse Zot, Bruges’ pride as far as
beer is concerned, is best pulled at
De Halve Maan, the brewery where
this delicious beer is produced. An Vino Vino

absolute must is‘t Brugs Beertje. PRACTICAL INFORMATION


This café breathes a genuine Bruges
beer atmosphere. Not only will you find the largest selection of beers here, but also Guido Francque and
the very best in-house beer knowledge. And it’s knowledge written with a capital K!’
Dominique: ‘If I want to read a newspaper amongst my fellow townspeople and
Dominique Persoone’s Addresses
the tourists, I head for Craenenburg. If it’s a romantic tête-à-tête you want with Memling in Sint-Jan – Hospitaalmuseum, Mariastraat 38, closed Monday,
your loved one, then Vino Vino is an excellent meeting place.’ www.museabrugge.be » Groeningemuseum, Dijver 12, closed Monday,
www.museabrugge.be » Kok au Vin, Ezelstraat 19, tel. +32 (0)50 33 95 21,
www.kok-au-vin.be » Den Dijver, Dijver 5, tel. +32 (0)50 33 60 69, closed
MY SHOPPING LIST Wednesday and Thursday, www.dijver.be » De Karmeliet, Langestraat 19,
Guido: ‘Hidden among the lacework of art and gastronomy are some of the finest tel. +32 (0)50 33 82 59, closed Sunday and Monday, www.dekarmeliet.be
shops that you’ll find anywhere. When I go shopping in Bruges I stock on wines » De Jonkman, Maalse Steenweg 438, Sint-Kruis, tel. +32 (0)50 36 07 67,
at Wijnshop Cuvée with its wonderful selection of world wines, I eat the most closed Sunday night and Monday, www.dejonkman.be » Le Menu Belge,
scrumptious ice-creams in the world at Gelateria Da Vinci, graciously served Hotel De Tuilerieën, Dijver 7, tel. +32 (0)50 34 36 91, closed Monday, Tuesday
by Sylvia Manders, and I buy the best pair of glasses at and Wednesday, www.hoteltuilerieen.com » Huyze Die Maene, Markt 17,
4 Optiek Hoet.’ tel. +32 (0)50 33 39 59, www.huyzediemaene.be » De Halve Maan, Walplein 26,
Dominique: ‘Every gastro- tel. +32 (0)50 33 26 97, www.halvemaan.be » ’t Brugs Beertje, Kemelstraat 5,
nome and gourmet will show tel. +32 (0)50 33 96 16, Closed Tuesday and Wednesday, www.brugsbeertje.be
you
y the way to De Olijfboom. » Craenenburg, Markt 16 » Vino Vino, Grauwwerkersstraat 15, tel. +32 (0) 486
Yes,
Y you can find the most 39 80 66, closed Sunday and Monday » Wijnshop Cuvée, Philipstockstraat 41,
ludicrously
l priced olive oils tel. +32 (0)50 33 33 28, www.cuvee.be » Gelateria Da Vinci, Geldmuntstraat 34,
or
o balsamic vinegars there, tel. +32 (0)50 33 36 50, (www.facebook.com/pages/Brugge-Belgium/
but
b also hundreds of other Gelateria-Da-Vinci/84739993600) » Optiek Hoet, Vlamingstraat 19, closed
delicacies.
d I also love the work Sunday, www.hoet.eu » De Olijfboom, Smedenstraat 58, closed Sunday and
of
o Frederiek van Pamel. This Monday, www.deolijfboom.be » Frederiek Van Pamel, Eiermarkt 3, closed
floral
fl and interior designer Sunday, www.frederiekvanpamel.be » A. Pickery, Oude Burg 2B-C, tel. +32
Gelateria Da Vinci
now
n has a shop on Markt.’ (0)50 34 53 80» Lumina Domestica, Wijnzakstraat 2, www.luminadomestica.be

84 85
> Identikit
Name: Rik Vanwalleghem
Date of Birth: 9 October 1952
Born in Wevelgem, the town where
the finishing line of the famous Ghent-
Wevelgem bicycle race is drawn. He lived
in Bruges for ten years. Rik Vanwalleg-
hem has been the director of the Tour
of Flanders Centre in Oudenaarde since
2006. He is also a journalist and the
author of several books on cycling.

As the enthusiastic director of the Tour the covered part of the playground,
of Flanders Centre in Oudenaarde, Rik stark naked cyclists were washing their
Vanwalleghem lived in Bruges for ten characteristic brown and white bodies.
years, where he learnt to appreciate its Being completely green, I didn’t know

Bruges, ‘A bike remains the ideal means


a Bike-friendly City of transport for exploring Bruges.’
The Perfect Starting Place bike-friendly character. And it all start- where to look. I had never seen a naked,
ed with Eddy Merckx. hairy grown-up man before. Did I end up
for the Tour of Flanders with a trauma? Well, no, but it was cer-
‘When I was 12 or 13 I used to go to the tainly touch and go (laughs). I was for-
Journalist Sophie Allegaert writes for Genieten, a Belgian tourism finishing line of Ghent-Wevelgem with bidden to talk about it at home, because
and lifestyle magazine. She is also the author of Bruges Among Girl Friends, my brother-in-law, who was a real cy- if I had, then I would have had to admit
a Dutch-language guide. cling fanatic. Wevelgem is the town that I had climbed that wall.’
where I was born. After the race the rid-
ers washed at the local nursery school.
Rik Vanwalleghem brought the Tour of Flanders to Bruges,
It was a ritual we didn’t want to miss. We
he knows every bike race secret that there is to know and outwitted the constable who was stand-
he is unequalled in compressing his passion for cycling in ing guard, climbed over the wall and hid
on the school playground. I remember
gripping articles and books that are immensely popular we once appeared from out of the bush-
with connoisseurs as well as laymen. es when we saw Peter Post peeing just a
few yards away! A little further, under

86
CITY

TRAINERS AND
CARD

PROFESSIONALS! BIKE-FRIENDLY LODGINGS


IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CITY!
This multimedia Tour of Flanders
Centre with its interactive museum, Bruges boasts no fewer than 16
brasserie and museum shop is an ab- bike-friendly hotels! This means
solute must for everyone who wishes concretely that you can stay over-
to polish up his or her knowledge of night in 16 places close to a recog-
cycling. It therefore appeals to young nised bike route, 16 places where
as well as old and to professionals as you will be offered an abundance of
well as amateurs. In addition, the special bike facilities, from bike
Brugge City Card allows you to visit sheds to bike repair kits and bike
the Centre at reduced rates! And don’t maps. In addition you can rent a bike
forget to make a note of the next Tour almost anywhere in town. And there
of Flanders in your diary: 4 April 2010 is even more good news! Use your
Brugge City Card and earn yourself
Markt 43, 9700 Oudenaarde, a 25% reduction on your bike rental!
+32 (0)55 33 99 33, www.crvv.be Turn to page 6 quickly!

‘Another time, when Eddy Merckx had isn’t that extensive, and it is very bike- finish first. Bicycle racing is so much
won Ghent-Wevelgem, he came to a friendly. Cycling in Bruges is therefore more. It isn’t enough to cycle faster than A Wonderful Start
sudden standstill just in front of me. For easy, safe and extremely pleasant. And anybody else. All sorts of factors may “It’s nothing more than logical that the
a few seconds I stood face to face with when you’re ready for some greater play a part. Dutchman Jan Raas once Tour of Flanders, the cycle race par
the god of all racing cyclists. Then the challenges, you can opt for one of four found himself in a leading group with excellence, should start on Bruges’
crowds took possession of him. In spite themed routes that start in the city itself two rivals, whom he knew to be involved Markt. Bruges is the perfect visiting
of all this I haven’t become a cyclist. In- and then traverse the wet- and wood- in an affair of the heart with a woman. card for Flanders. The city has a global
stead I turned into a semi-cycling tour- lands surrounding Bruges.’ He therefore knew that they hated each standing, and you would have to look
ist who loves cycling intensely and who other’s guts and that they would not far and wide to find a place that is as
has already conquered a few mountains, budge an inch. And indeed, both riders telegenic. In short, the Tour of Flan-
although I admit that that happened Lessons For Life ended up destroying each other, after ders and Bruges are a perfect match,
some time ago. Today I mount my bike ‘Bicycle racing, that’s life, nothing more, which Raas broke away and won.’ and it has resulted in a success that
on far too few occasions, and when I do, I nothing less. Yes, it is a cliché as high as glues sixty million people to their tel-
strictly keep to the recreational kind, a mountain, but it nevertheless all fits. evision set year after year. The start
simply because of lack of time. Indeed, Everything that makes life and human also demonstrates that both the city of
cycling remains the ideal way to explore beings beautiful and ugly is to be found Bruges and the Tour handle their her-
a region. When you’re on foot, your a hundredfold in cycling. From enthral- itage wisely. You have to cherish the
range is too limited, and with a car you ling Greek tragedy to unadulterated Ro- past and respect your historical roots,
speed through the country without see- manticism, you get it all, and everything but you can’t afford to remain stuck in
ing anything. When we lived in Bruges, that lies in between. A pure epic adven- times gone by. Nostalgia and folklore
we used our bikes all the time. The city ture. When you run or swim you have to may cause a suffocating effect. It’s

88 89
WE’RE OFF!

Jump on your bike and explore Best of Bruges


Bruges’splendid surroundings by way
of four brand-new signposted themed by Rik Vanwalleghem
routes. Will it be the summer castles
and abbeys in Bruges’green belt or do
you prefer the polders between Bruges,
Damme and picturesque Lissewege, 1
recently proclaimed one of Flanders’
prettiest villages? The bicycle route
network of the wet- and woodlands
surrounding Bruges with its judiciously
positioned junctions will help you to MY FAVOURITE PLACE
plan your own trajectory.
‘The dunes and the beach at
For more information: call in at the in-
formation offices in the railway station Zeebrugge are a haven of ref-
or the Concertgebouw! uge for all those in need of a
breath of fresh air.’

Cyclists will have free play on the 3rd Sunday in September when Bruges joins the
The beach at Zeebrugge
rest of Europe in organising a Car-free Day. The historical centre will be reserved for
cyclists and pedestrians only, and a large number of activities will lighten up the city.

2
something the city has understood ment of truth. The large contingent of
very well. That’s why you will see in foreign cyclists is invariably im-
the middle of that impressive histori- pressed by the circumstances. The MY RESTAURANTS AND GASTROPUBS
cal decor a colourful fully-trained enthusiasm of the large crowds, both ‘Rock Fort serves up original dishes with a
peloton, equipped with the latest tech- cycling fans and ordinary spectators, modern twist, while In Den Wittenkop of-
nology and ready to do battle in a mod- who scream the riders forward from fers an authentic grandmother’s cuisine.
ern race. I have butterflies in my start to finish, is simply unbelievable. ’t Zwaantje has honest food with an inter-
stomach days before. Here careers Filippo Pozzato, who is after all abso- national hint, and at Hertog Jan the chef
will be made or broken, here you will lute top class, has recently comment- has Michelin star quality. When I fancy a
fail miserably or earn yourself eternal ed on this in an Italian newspaper. ‘If pot of mussels I head for Zeebrugge and
glory. It means sweaty hands, goose you really want to know what cycling Sea and Sand.’
bumps on your arms and tension from means and how much passion it can
top to toe. You also feel this tension engender, then go and attend the start
with the cyclists, the team leaders and of the Tour of Flanders in Bruges.’
mechanics and all those that follow
the race on motorbikes or in cars. Rock Fort
Everyone is on edge. This is the mo-

90 91
MY CAFÉS MY SECRET TIP
‘Youth hostel and café De Snuffel is perfect for some international socialising, ‘The Old Cemetery at Ver-Assebroek,
whereas l’Estaminet is a pub where the world-famous spaghetti is an absolute which is currently being restored, is with
must. Du Phare and De Vers- its countless monuments and pleasant
teende Nacht on the other alleys the perfect place for a spot of
hand breathe a cosy bluesy reflection about life and death.”
atmosphere, and De Kroon is
still a favourite haunt for
many a café-loving native.’

3
l’Estaminet
The Old Cemetery at Ver-Assebroek
PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Rik Vanwalleghem’s Addresses


Snuffel Backpacker Hostel, Ezelstraat 47-49, tel. +32 (0)50 33 31 33, www.snuf-
fel.be » L’Estaminet, Park 5, tel. +32 (0)50 33 09 16, closed on Monday, http:
MY SHOPS 4 //users.telenet.be/fclestaminet/lestaminet.htm » De Kroon, Houtkaai 2, tel. +32
‘There is no better place to start (0)50 31 53 89, closed on Sunday and Monday afternoon » De Versteende Nacht,
the day than at Servaas Van Langestraat 11, closed on Sunday, www.deversteendenacht.com » Du Phare,
Mullem. Their breakfasts are Sasplein 2, tel. +32 (0)50 34 35 90, closed on Tuesday, www.duphare.be » Rock
scrumptious. Then it’s time for Fort, Langestraat 15, tel. +32 (0)50 33 41 13, closed on Saturday and Sunday,
art. At the art shop De Andere www.rock-fort.be » In Den Wittenkop, Sint-Jakobsstraat 14, tel. +32 (0)50 33 20
Kijk you always leave in a better 59, closed on Saturday afternoon, Sunday and Monday » Hertog Jan, Torhout-
frame of mind, and at Galerij sesteenweg 479, tel. +32 (0)50 67 34 46, closed on Sunday and Monday, www.
Pinsart art lovers will feel hertog-jan.com » ’t Zwaantje, Gentpoortvest 70, tel. +32 (0)473 71 25 80, closed
they’ve died and gone to heaven. on Wednesday and Thursday, www.hetzwaantje.be » Sea and Sand, Zeedijk 8,
If you want to buy a tailor-made Zeebrugge, tel. +32 (0)50 54 42 79, closed on Monday and Tuesday » Servaas
work of art, then visit calligra- Servaas van Mullem Van Mullem, Vlamingstraat 56, tel. +32 (0)50 33 05 15, closed on Tuesday
pher Kristoffel Boudens. » De Andere Kijk, Garenmarkt 28, tel. +32 (0)50 34 21 61, closed on Wednesday
Brugse Boekhandel is where » Galerij Pinsart, Genthof 21, closed on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday,
I buy all my books, whether it’s fiction or non-fiction. They always find a way to www.pinsart.be » Kristoffel Boudens, Oude Gentweg 171, tel. +32 (0)50 31 42 15
surprise me with their wonderful selection.’ » Brugse Boekhandel, Dijver 2, closed on Sunday, www.brugseboekhandel.be
» Old Cemetery at Ver-Assebroek, Pastoor Verhaegeplein 13

92 93
PAGE 96 > MUSEUMS, a complete overview of all
Bruges museums including information on their
most important collections, opening times and
admission charges.
PAGE 106 > PLACES OF INTEREST, six special places
that are dying to be discovered by you.

Know Your Way PAGE 110 > ON FOOT, BY BOAT, HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGE,
MINIBUS, HOT AIR BALLOON, no matter how you want to

Around Bruges
travel, you will find all the detailed information here.
PAGE 112 > OUT IN BRUGES, have a great time with
music, dance or theatre in a city perfect for culture.

Super easy and Handy! PAGE 114 > BICYCLE RENTAL POINTS, looking for a bike
to rent ? The choice is all yours !
PAGE 116 > GUIDED BICYCLE TRIPS, if you want to take
a guided bike tour suited to your wishes, then take
Do you want to check the exact opening times of your pick from these pages.
PAGE 118 > TAILOR-MADE FOR CHILDREN, children’s
a museum? Perhaps you want to organise a jolly day out farms, amusement parks or child-friendly walks.
with the kids, or you fancy a ride in a horse-drawn carriage. Whatever you’re looking for, there is no time for
boredom here.
This extremely practical overview of all Visitors Guide PAGE 122 > GET EVEN MORE OUT OF YOU STAY IN BRUGES,
explore Bruges’ wet- and woodlands, take a trip to
information shows you everything you may wish
the seaside or immerse yourself in the history of
or need to know! the Great War. There’s something for everyone, and
the Brugge City Card makes it all extra economical.

94 95
CITY
CARD
20 GROENINGE MUSEUM and Whit Monday) ADMISSION > € 2,00;
The Groeninge Museum offers a varied 65+: € 1,00. Children under 6: free.
overview of the history of Belgian plas- Youngsters under 26: € 1.00; combina-
tic arts. Although the Flemish Primi- tion ticket with Arentshuis and Groenin-
tives are a high point, you will also gemuseum possible; Brugge City
marvel at top 18th and 19th- century Card: free
neoclassical pieces, masterpieces ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
from Flemish Expressionism and post- 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and 25/12
war modern art. INFORMATION > [Concertgebouw],
OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday, www.museabrugge.be
9.30 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. Tickets till
4.30 p.m. (Open on Easter Monday and
Whit Monday) ADMISSION > Including
Arentshuis, Forum+: € 8.00; 65+:
€ 6.00. Children under 6: free. Young-
sters under 26: € 1.00; Brugge City
Card: free ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >

Bruges Museums 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and 25/12.


The museum will be closed from 17/8
to 28/10 for the setting up of the exhibi-
CITY
CARD

tion Van Eyck to Dürer (subject to alter- ARENTSHUIS


02

Although the Flemish Primitives are undoubtedly Bruges’ ation). This exhibition runs from 29 In this elegant 18th-century town
/10/2010 to 30/01/2011. As a result the house with its picturesque garden the
showpiece attraction, museum devotees in search
permanent museum collection will not work of the versatile British artist
of much more will not be disappointed. Indeed, the choice be open to the public. INFORMATION > Frank Brangwyn (1867-1956) is on
Dijver 12, www.museabrugge.be display on the top floor. Brangwyn’s
is truly magnificent. From contemporary plastic art by way talent as an architect, painter and
CITY
CARD

of Michelangelo’s world-famous Madonna and Child 42 FORUM+ designer of glassware, furniture and
Forum+ is the Concert Hall’s museum jewellery is breathtaking. The ground
to a sumptuous Burgundian palace. It’s all there for space, focusing on contemporary plas- floor is the setting for temporary
tic arts, sculptures and installations by plastic art exhibitions. OPENING TIMES
you to discover!
famous modern artists. The exhibitions > Tuesday to Sunday 9.30 a.m. – 5.00
change every three to four months. The p.m. Last tickets: 4.30 p.m. (Open on
splendid panoramic view of the city is a Easter Monday and Whit Monday)
wonderful bonus! ADMISSION > € 2,00; 65+: € 1,00. Chil-
OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday, dren under 6: free. Youngsters under
9.30 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: 26: € 1.00; combination ticket with Ar-
4.30 p.m. (Open on Easter Monday entshuis and Groeningemuseum possi-

96 97
ble; Brugge City Card: free ADDITIONAL OPENING TIMES > Daily: 9.30 a.m. – day: 1.30 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. (last tickets
CLOSING DATES > 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: 4.30 p.m. 4.30 p.m.) (Open on Easter Monday and
and 25/12 INFORMATION > Dijver 16, ADMISSION > Including Bruggemuse- Whit Monday) ADMISSION > Church: free;
www.museabrugge.be um-Liberty of Bruges and audio guide: Museum: € 2.00; 65+: € 1.00. Children
€ 2.50; 65+: € 2.00. Children under 6: under 6: free. Youngsters under 26:
free. Youngsters under 26: € 1.00; € 1.00; Brugge City Card: free
Brugge City Card: free INFORMATION > Mariastraat,
ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > www.museabrugge.be
1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and 25/12
INFORMATION > Burg 12,
www.museabrugge.be

CITY
CARD

BRUGGEMUSEUM-
32

LIBERTY OF BRUGES
From this mansion, erected between
1722 and 1727, Bruges’ rural surround-
ings were governed. The building
functioned as a court of justice be-
CITY CITY
CARD CARD

tween 1795 and 1984. Today the city BRUGGEMUSEUM-


14 BRUGGEMUSEUM-
21

archives are stored here. They safe- WELCOME CHURCH OF OUR LADY GRUUTHUSE
guard Bruges’ written memory. The The 122 metres high brick tower of the The opulent palace of the lords of Gru-
premises also boast an old assize Welcome Church of Our Lady is a per- uthuse include splendid tapestries, a
court and a renaissance hall with a fect illustration of the craftsmanship of unique prayer chapel, a five-centuries-
CITY
CARD
38BRUGGEMUSEUM- monumental 16th-century timber, Bruges’ artisans. The church displays a old kitchen and a collection of objects
CITY HALL marble and alabaster mantelpiece. valuable art collection: Michelangelo’s illustrating daily life between the 15th
Bruges’ City Hall (1376) is one of OPENING TIMES > Daily: 9.30 a.m. – world-famous Madonna and Child, and the 19th century, from everyday
the oldest in the Netherlands. It is 12.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. countless paintings, 13th-century paint- kitchen ware to superb silverware.
from here that the city has been Last tickets: 4.30 p.m. ed sepulchres and the tombs of Mary of OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday:
governed for more than 600 years. ADMISSION > Including Bruggemuse- Burgundy and Charles the Bold. 9.30 a.m. – 5 p.m. Last tickets:
An absolute masterpiece is the um-City Hall and audio guide: € 2.00; OPENING TIMES > The church: Monday to 4.30 p.m. (Open on Easter Monday
Gothic Hall with its late 19th-century 65+: € 1.00. Children under 6: free. Friday: 9.30 a.m. - 4.50 p.m. Saturday: and Whit Monday)
murals and polychrome vault. The Youngsters under 26: € 1.00; 9.30 p.m. – 4.40 p.m. Sunday and Holy ADMISSION > € 6,00; 65+: € 5,00. Chil-
adjoining historic hall calls up the Brugge City Card: free Days: 1.30 p.m. – 4.50 p.m. The church is dren under 6: free. Youngsters under
city council’s history with a number of ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > not open to the public during nuptial and 26: € 1.00; Brugge City Card: free
authentic documents and works of art. 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and 25/12 funeral masses; The museum: Tuesday ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
A multimedial exhibition on the ground INFORMATION > Burg 11a, to Friday: 9.30 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. (last tick- 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and 25/12
floor illustrates the evolution of the www.museabrugge.be ets 4.30 p.m.). Saturday: 9.30 a.m. – INFORMATION > Dijver 17,
Burg square. 4.45 p.m. (last tickets 4.15 p.m.). Sun- www.museabrugge.be

98 99
CITY
CARD

BRUGGEMUSEUM-ARCHEOLOGY
01 thirst-quenching drink at The Black Cat, Whit Monday). Bruggemuseum-Koele-
This museum presents the unwritten the museum’s tavern. OPENING TIMES > wei Mill: July and August: Tuesday to
history of Bruges. Its motto: feel your Tuesday to Sunday: 9.30 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. Sunday, 9.30 a.m. – 12.30 p.m. and
past beneath your feet. Discover the Last tickets: 4.30 p.m. (Open on Easter 1.30 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. Last tickets
history of the city through different Monday and Whit Monday) ADMISSION > 4.30 p.m. (Open on Easter Monday and
kinds of search and hands-on activi- € 2,00; 65+: € 1,00. Children under 6: Whit Monday) ADMISSION > € 2,00; 65+:
ties. A fascinating mix of archeological free. Youngsters under 26: € 1.00; € 1,00. Children under 6: free. Young-
finds, riddles, replicas and reconstruc- Brugge City Card: free ADDITIONAL sters under 26: € 1.00; Brugge City Card:
tions shed light on daily life in times CLOSING DATES > 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and free INFORMATION > Kruisvest,
gone by, from the home to the work- 25/12 INFORMATION > Balstraat 43, www.museabrugge.be
place and from birth till death. OPEN- www.museabrugge.be
ING TIMES > Tuesday – Sunday: 9.30 a.m.
– 12.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m. – 5.00 p.m.
Last tickets: 4.30 p.m. (Open on Easter
Monday and Whit Monday) ADMISSION >
€ 2,00; 65+: € 1,00. Children under 6:
free. Youngsters under 26: € 1.00;
Brugge City Card: free ADDITIONAL
CITY
CARD

CLOSING DATES > 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) BRUGGEMUSEUM-BELFRY


39

and 25/12 INFORMATION > Mariastraat The most important of Bruges’


CITY
CARD

36a, www.museabrugge.be BRUGGEMUSEUM-GEZELLE


22 towers stands 83 metres tall. It
CITY
CARD
32 BRUGGEMUSEUM-SINT-
25 The literary and biographical museum houses a treasure-chamber, an
JANSHUIS MILL, KOELEWEI MILL of Guido Gezelle (1830-1899) is incor- impressive clock mechanism and
Windmills have graced Bruges’ ram- porated in the house where the famous a carillon with 47 silver-toned bells.
parts ever since the construction of the Flemish poet was born. Gezelle’s Your reward after a climb up the
outer city wall at the end of the 13th cen- birthplace, in a quiet working-class tower’s 366 stairs is a breathtaking
tury. Today four specimen are left on district, displays handwritten letters and unforgettable panoramic view
Kruisvest. Sint-Janshuis Mill (1770) is and writing paraphernalia. of Bruges and her surroundings.
still in its original spot and still grinding OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday: OPENING TIMES > Daily: 9.30 a.m. –
grain just like its neighbour Koelewei 9.30 a.m. – 12.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: 4.15 p.m.
Mill. OPENING TIMES > Bruggemuseum- 5.00 p.m. Last tickets 4.30 p.m. (Open ADMISSION > € 8,00; 65+: € 6,00. Children
CITY
CARD

BRUGGEMUSEUM-FOLKLORE
27 Sint-Janshuis Mill: May - August: Tues- on Easter Monday and Whit Monday) under 6: free. Youngsters under 26:
These restored 17th-century single- day to Sunday, 9.30 a.m. – 12.30 p.m. ADMISSION > € 2,00; 65+: € 1,00. Chil- € 4.00; Brugge City Card: free
room dwellings accommodate a.o. a and 1.30 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. Last tickets dren under 6: free. Youngsters under ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
classroom, a millinery, a pharmacy, a 4.30 p.m.; September: Saturday and 26: € 1.00; Brugge City Card: free 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and 25/12
confectionery, a grocery and an authen- Sunday, 9.30 a.m. – 12.30 p.m. and ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1, 13/5 INFORMATION > Markt 7,
tic bedroom. Conclude your visit with a 1.30 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. Last tickets (afternoon) and 25/12 INFORMATION > www.museabrugge.be
pleasant stroll in the garden and a 4.30 p.m. (Open on Easter Monday and Rolweg 64, www.museabrugge.be

100 101
struments and six paintings by Hans collection of works of art, monastic Your presence is required by noon
Memling. Also worth a visit: the Diks- and religious relics and a range of ob- at the latest.
muide attic, the old dormitory, the cus- jects used in nursing have been con- ADMISSION > Museum: € 7,00; Museum
todian’s room and the adjoining phar- verted into a museum. The Gothic + Diamond Cutting Demonstration:
macy. church with its baroque interior can € 10.00; Brugge City Card: free
OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday: also be visited. ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
9.30 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: 4.30 OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday: 1/1, 4/1 - 15/1 and 24, 25/12
p.m. The pharmacy is open from Tues- 9.30 a.m. – 12.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m. – INFORMATION > Katelijnestraat 43,
day to Sunday: 9.30 a.m. – 11.45 a.m. 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: 4.30 p.m. (Open www.diamondmuseum.be
CITY
CARD
BRUGGEMUSEUM-GENTPOORT
03 and 2.00 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: on Easter Monday and Whit Monday)
Gentpoort (Gate of Ghent) is one of four 4.30 p.m. (Open on Easter Monday ADMISSION > € 2,00; 65+: € 1,00. Chil-
remaining medieval city gates. An en- and Whit Monday) ADMISSION > Includ- dren under 6: free. Youngsters under
trance for foreigners, a border with the ing Our Lady of the Pottery - Hospi- 26: € 1.00; Brugge City Card: free
outside world for the townspeople of taalmuseum: € 8.00; 65+: € 6.00. ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
Bruges. The gate was a part of the Children under 6: free. Youngsters 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and 25/12
city’s defences as well as a passage- under 26: € 1.00; Brugge City Card: INFORMATION > Potterierei 79,
way for the movement of produce and free ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > www.museabrugge.be
merchandise. OPENING TIMES > 1/1, 13/5 (afternoon) and 25/12
See www.museabrugge.be or INFORMATION > Mariastraat 38,
CITY
CARD

telephone +32 (0) 50 44 87 43 www.museabrugge.be LUMINA DOMESTICA


43

ADMISSION > € 2,00; 65+: € 1,00. Children The museum contains the world’s
under 6: free. Youngsters under 26: largest collection of lamps and lights.
€ 1.00; Brugge City Card: free More than 6,000 antiques tell the
ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > complete story of interior lighting.
Special closing dates: 1/1, 13/5 From torch and paraffin lamp to light
(afternoon) and 25/12. bulb and LED.
INFORMATION > Gentpoortstraat, OPENING TIMES > Daily: 10 a.m. to
CITY
CARD

www.museabrugge.be BRUGES DIAMOND MUSEUM


18 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: 3.30 p.m.
This museum illustrates the history ADMISSION > € 6,00; 65+ and students:
CITY
CARD

MEMLING IN SINT-JAN -
25 of Bruges as the oldest diamond € 5.00. Children between 6 and 12:
CITY
CARD

HOSPITAALMUSEUM OUR LADY OF THE POTTERY -


37 centre in Europe. Today diamond € 4.00. Children under 6: free;
Saint John’s Hospital has an eight hun- HOSPITAALMUSEUM remains one of Belgium’s most Brugge City Card: free
dred-year-old history of caring for pil- This hospital dates back to the 13th important export products. The daily ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
grims, travellers and the sick. Visit the century, when nuns took on the care of demonstration of diamond cutting 1/1, 4/1 – 15/1, 24, 25 and 31/12
medieval wards where the nuns and pilgrims, travellers and the sick. Over is a sparkling affair. INFORMATION > Wijnzakstraat 2,
monks performed their work of mercy the centuries the hospital developed OPENING TIMES > Daily: 10.30 a.m.- www.luminadomestica.be
and marvel at the impressive collec- into a modern home for the elderly. 5.30 p.m. The daily diamond cutting
tion of archives, art works, medical in- The hospital wards with their valuable demonstration starts at 12.15 p.m.

102 103
CITY
CARD

DALÍ XPO-GALLERY
46 decor of mirrors and gold, mother-
Admire the fantastic collection of of-pearl and shocking pink.
world-famous graphic art, sculptures OPENING TIMES > Daily: 10.00 a.m.
and drawings by the renowned to 6.00 p.m. ADMISSION > € 10,00; 65+
Salvador Dalí inside the Belfry. All and students: € 8.00. Children under
works are originals without a fault, 12: free; Brugge City Card: free
authenticated by the Fundació Gala- ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1 and
Salvador Dalí. The collection is pre- 25/12 INFORMATION > Markt 7,
sented in a sensational Daliesque www.dali-interart.be
CITY
CARD

CHOCO-STORY
41

The museum dips its visitors in the


history of cocoa and chocolate. From WALLET-FRIENDLY MUSEUM SHOPPING!
the Maya and the Spanish conquista-
dores to the chocolate connoisseurs of BRUGGE CITY CARD
today. A chocolate hunt gives children The Brugge City Card gives free entry to 24 museums and places of interest
the chance to discover the museum. in Bruges. See page 6 for more information.
Chocolates are made by hand and
sampled on the premises. 3-DAY TICKET
CITY
CARD

OPENING TIMES > Daily: 10.00 a.m. 45


BELGIAN FRIES MUSEUM The 3-day ticket giving you unlimited access to all city museums (see
to 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: 4.15 p.m. This didactical museum sketches the description from page 97 tot 102) only costs € 15,00. Youngsters between
ADMISSION > € 6,00; 65+ and students: history of the potato, belgian fries and 6 and 25 pay € 5,00. the ticket, valid for three days, can be obtained at
€ 5.00. Children between 6 and 12: the various sauces and dressings that all city museums and at [Concertgebouw].
€ 4.00. Children under 6: free. accompany this most delicious and
Brugge City Card: free most famous of Belgian comestibles. COMBINATION TICKET CHOCO-STORY/DIAMOND MUSEUM
ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > The museum is housed in Saaihalle, Combine a tasty visit to Choco-Story with a dazzling look at the Diamond
1/1, 4/1 – 15/1, 24, 25 and 31/12 one of Bruges’ most attractive Museum. This combination ticket costs € 10,00. For sale at the above-
INFORMATION > Wijnzakstraat 2, buildings. mentioned museums and at [Concertgebouw].
www.choco-story.be OPENING TIMES > Daily: 10.00 a.m.
to 5.00 p.m. Last tickets: 4.15 p.m. COMBINATION TICKET CHOCO-STORY/LUMINA DOMESTICA/BELGIAN
ADMISSION > € 6,00; 65+ and students: FRIES MUSEUM
€ 5.00. Children between 6 and 12: Visit these three museums at reduced rates.
€ 4.00. Children between 3 and 5: » Combination ticket (3 museums): adults: € 15,00; 65+ and students:
€ 1.00; children under 3: free. € 12,00; children between 6 and 12: € 9,00; children under 6: free
Brugge City Card: free » Combination ticket (select 2 museums): adults € 10,00; 65+ and students:
ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > € 8,00; children between 6 and 12: € 6,00; children under 6: free.
1/1, 4/1 – 15/1, 24, 25 and 31/12 » These combination tickets are for sale at the above-mentioned museums
INFORMATION > Vlamingstraat 33, and at [Concertgebouw].
www.frietmuseum.be

104 105
Places of Interest
CITY CITY
CARD CARD

BEGUINAGE
01 03 20 SAINT SAVIOUR’S
The ‘Princely Beguinage Ten Wijn- CATHEDRAL
gaarde’ with its whitewashed house- Bruges’ oldest parish church (12th-15th
fronts, tranquil convent garden and century) has amongst its treasures a
Some places are so special, so breathtaking or so unique beguinage museum was founded in rood loft with organ, medieval tombs,
1245. Today the nuns of the Order of Brussels tapestries and a rich collection
that you simply have to see them. Bruges is filled to the
Saint Benedict inhabit the site. The Be- of Flemish paintings (14th-18th century).
brim with wonderful witnesses of a prosperous past, guinage entrance gate closes without The treasure-chamber displays a.o.
fail at 6.30 p.m. paintings by Dirk Bouts, Hugo van der
whether they be peaceful and picturesque, spiritual or, OPENING TIMES > Beguinage: daily Goes and other Flemish Primitives.
on the contrary, extremely entertaining. from 6.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m.; OPENING TIMES > Cathedral: Monday
Beguine’s house: Monday to to Friday: 9.00 a.m. – 12.00 a.m. and
Saturday, 10.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m, 2.00 p.m. – 5.30 p.m.; Saturday: 9.00 a.m.
Sunday 2.30 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. – 12.00 a.m. and 2.00 p.m. – 3.30 p.m.;
ADMISSION > Beguinage: free; Beguine’s Sunday: 9.00 a.m. – 10.00 a.m. and
house: € 2.00, youngsters: € 1.00, 2.00 p.m. – 5.00 p.m.; Treasury: Daily
60+: € 1.50. Brugge City Card: free from 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m.; Closed from
INFORMATION > Begijnhof 24-28-30, the middle of January to the middle of
www.monasteria.org February ADMISSION > Cathedral: free;
Treasury: € 2.50, students € 1.50.
Brugge City Card: free INFORMATION >
Steenstraat, www.sintsalvator.be

106 107
CITY
CARD

05 MUSEUM OF THE BASILICA BREWERY DE HALVE MAAN


12

OF THE HOLY BLOOD De Halve Maan (1546) is the city’s last


This double chapel consists of the Ro- working brewery. Their house brew is
manesque church of Saint Basil (1139- Brugse Zot, a spirited top-fermented
1149) on the ground floor and the Basili- beer made from malt, hops and special
ca on the first floor, rebuilt in Gothic re- yeast. This deliciously refreshing beer
vival style in the 19th century. The Relic can be tasted on the premises. Daily
of the Holy Blood is kept in the Basilica. guided tours in various languages.
OPENING TIMES > April-September: OPENING TIMES > April-October: daily
CITY
CARD

9.30 a.m. – 12.00 a.m. and 2.00 p.m. – 11.00 a.m. – 4.00 p.m. (Saturday till 20 HOF BLADELIN LACE CENTRE
24

6.00 p.m.; October-March: 10.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m.). Guided tours every hour. In around 1440 Pieter Bladelin, treas- The Lace Centre is housed in 15th-
12.00 a.m. and 2.00 p.m. – 4.00 p.m. November-March: weekdays urer of the Order of the Golden Fleece, century almshouses funded by the
ADMISSION > Double chapel: free; 11.00 a.m. & 3.00 p.m. Saturday commissioned the construction of Adornes family, who also built the Je-
Treasure-chamber: € 1.50, students and Sunday 11.00 a.m. – 4.00 p.m. Hof Bladelin. In the 15th century the rusalem Church. Lace demonstrations
€ 1.00, children under 13 free Guided tours every hour powerful Florentine banking family of are regularly given. The shop sells all
ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1, De Medici set up a branch here. The kinds of lace paraphernalia.
1/1, 1/11, 25/12. October-March: weekdays in January, 24/12 and 25/12 stone medallion portraits of Lorenzo OPENING TIMES > Monday-Saturday:
Wednesday afternoon ADMISSION > € 5,50 (including refresh- de Medici and his wife still grace the 10.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m.
INFORMATION > Burg 13, ment), children between 6 and 12: picturesque inner court. ADMISSION > € 2,50; 65+, students and
www.holyblood.org € 2.75. Brugge City Card: free OPENING TIMES > Inner court: Monday- children between 7 and 12: € 1.50;
INFORMATION > Walplein 26, Saturday 9.00 a.m. – 12.00 a.m. and children under 7: free. Brugge City
www.halvemaan.be 2.00 p.m. – 5.00 p.m.; Hof Bladelin: by Card: free
appointment, tel. +32 (0)50 33 64 34; INFORMATION > Peperstraat 3a,
Closed on Sundays and public holidays www.kantcentrum.com
ADMISSION > Inner court: free;
Hof Bladelin: € 1.00
INFORMATION > Naaldenstraat 19

108 109
BRUGES ON FOOT 9.00 a.m. – 10.00 p.m. in July and
Are you not exhausted from walking August ADMISSION > € 36,00.
yet? Are you still in the mood for a tour A carriage seats up to 5 people
with a seasoned guide? Then hurry to INFORMATION > www.hippo.be/koets
[Concertgebouw] and register for
CITY
CARD
a two-hour fascinating guided walk. CITY TOUR BRUGES
November to March, Saturday, Sunday, The minibuses call at the different high-
Monday and Wednesday: evening lights of the city. They leave every hour
walks; 5 April – 18 April, daily: after- from Markt for a fifty-minute trip.
noon walks; July and August, daily: af- Headphones provide commentary in
ternoon walks; June and September, English, Dutch, French, German, Span-
weekends: afternoon walks ish, Italian and Japanese. The first bus
INFORMATION > Information Office leaves at 10.00 a.m. The last bus leaves
at the Railway Station and the at 4.00 p.m. in January and February,
Concertgebouw 5.00 p.m. in March, November and De-
cember, 6.00 p.m. in October, 7.00 p.m.
CITY
CARD
BRUGES BY BOAT in April, May and June, and 8.00 p.m. in

Discover Bruges On A visit to Bruges isn’t complete without


a boat trip on its canals. Go aboard at
July, August and September
ADMISSION > € 14,50; Children aged

Foot, By Boat, Horse-


any of the five landing stages (consult 6 to 11: € 8.50; Brugge City Card
city map) for a half-hour trip that allows (16/11>28/2): free
you to appreciate the most noteworthy INFORMATION > www.citytour.be

drawn Carriage, Mini- delights of the city from a completely


different angle. March – November:
CITY
CARD
BRUGES BY HOT AIR BALLOON

bus or Hot Air Balloon


daily from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. A morning flight (champagne breakfast
ADMISSION > € 6,90; Children aged included) or an evening flight (cham-
4 to 11 (accompanied by an adult): pagne, snacks and beer included) lasts
€ 3.20. Children under 4: free. three hours, of which at least one is
You might want to stroll, amble and saunter down the streets of Brugge City Card (1/3>15/11): free spent up in the air! On request only.
Bruges all day long or even for a whole weekend. Nothing wrong Reservation for a balloon trip on the day
with that. However, it won’t do you any harm if you look at the city BRUGES BY itself is however possible until a few
HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGE hours before departure.
from a different perspective. During a walking tour a guide will
The half-hour carriage ride along Brug- ADMISSION > € 160,00; Children under
show you numerous secret places. Maybe you prefer a boat trip es’ historic winding streets trots off on 13: € 100.00; Brugge City Card rate:
on the mysterious canals. An unforgettable experience! And Markt (at Burg on Wednesday morn- € 120.00
a ride in a horse-drawn carriage must surely be the perfect ing). Halfway through the ride the car- INFORMATION > +32 (0)475 97 28 87 or
romantic outing. Perhaps you simply want to tour all the high- riage briefly stops at the Beguinage. www.bruges-ballooning.com
lights as quickly and as comfortably as possible? Then a minibus The coachman gives expert commen-
tary en route. 9.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m.;
is what you need, and expert commentary is what you will get.
And what about a balloon ride? 111
tel. +32 (0)50 44 30 60 (Weekdays
1.00 p.m.– 6.00 p.m. Saturday
10.00 a.m. – 1.00 p.m.),
www.ccbrugge.be

CITY
CARD

CONCERTGEBOUW
13

The impressive Concertgebouw (Concert


hall) with its 1,295 seats and the intimate
Chamber Music Hall with its 320 seats
serve a delightful mix of music, musical
theatre and dance of international qual- MAGDALENE
36

ity. The acoustics and intimate comfort of CONCERT HALL (MaZ)


both halls are exceptional. Brugge City The place to be for dynamic young

Out in Bruges Card: 30% discount on in-house produc-


tions INFORMATION > ’t Zand, tel. +32 (0)70
theatre and dance talent as well as for
concerts. Big names next to intimate
22 33 02 (Monday – Friday : 4.00 p.m. – club discoveries. Regular shows and
6.30 p.m.), www.concertgebouw.be activities for children.
The city’s high-quality cultural life flourishes as never INFORMATION > Magdalenastraat 27,
tel. +32 (0)50 44 30 60 (Weekdays
before. Devotees of modern architecture stand in awe of
10.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. Saturday
the Concertgebouw (Concert hall) whilst enjoying to the 10.00 a.m. – 1.00 p.m.),
www.ccbrugge.be
full an international top concert or an exhilarating dance
CITY
CARD

performance. Romantic souls throng the elegant City DE WERF


17

Celebrated den for jazz lovers. An es-


Theatre for an unforgettable night. Jazz enthusiasts feel tablished concert venue for countless
Belgian and foreign musicians as well
at home at De Werf, whereas MaZ is the place to be
CITY THEATRE
33 as a perfect spot for that enjoyable
for young folk who want to be in. One of Europe’s best preserved city the- contemporary play or kids’production.
atres (1869) boasts a palatial foyer and a Brugge City Card: 25% discount
majestic auditorium. It is the perfect INFORMATION > Werfstraat 108,
The monthly magazine events@brugge offers a detailed setting for concerts and contemporary tel. +32 (0)50 33 05 29, www.dewerf.be
events calendar. It is available free of charge at the information dance and theatre performances.
office at the Concertgebouw and the information office at INFORMATION > Vlamingstraat 29,
the railway station.

113
STATION tandem bicycles, buggies, wheelchairs
LOCATION > Railway station ADMISSION > and scooters CYCLE MAP > free city map
½ day: € 6.50 (from 2.00 p.m.); full day: (not cycle map!), no sale of maps DETAILS >
€ 9.50 (bike must be returned before credit card number or a € 150.00 deposit
7.30 p.m.) CYCLE MAP > no free map, no per bike CONTACT > tel. +32 (0)50 33 80 27,
sale of maps DETAILS > collection point www.adventure-bike-renting.be
Luggage subject to handing in your ID
CITY
CARD
card and paying a € 12.50 deposit CON- BAUHAUS BIKE RENTAL
TACT > Stationsplein, tel. +32 (0)50 30 23 29 LOCATION > Langestraat 145
ADMISSION > 1 hour: € 3.00; for 3 hours:
DE KETTING € 6.00; for a full day: € 10.00 (Brugge City
LOCATION > Gentpoortstraat 23 Card: € 6.00). Students are charged only
ADMISSION > € 6,00 CYCLE MAP > free city € 9.00 EXTRA > mountain bikes CYCLE
map (not cycle map!), no sale of maps MAP > free city and cycle maps, no sale of
DETAILS > a deposit may be required maps DETAILS > you have to hand in your
CONTACT > tel. +32 (0)50 34 41 96 credit card CONTACT > tel. +32 (0)50 34
10 93, www.bauhaus.be/bikes.html

Bicycle Rental Points


CITY
CARD
ERIC POPELIER
LOCATION > Mariastraat 26 SNUFFEL BACKPACKER HOSTEL
ADMISSION > a bike for 1 hour: € 4.00; for LOCATION > Ezelstraat 47-49
4 hours: € 8.00; for a full day: € 12.00 ADMISSION > € 8,00 CYCLE MAP > free
Bruges is bicycle heaven. Haven’t you brought your own (Brugge City Card: € 9.00). Price of a city and cycle maps, no sale of maps
tandem for 1 hour: € 10.00; for 4 hours: DETAILS > you have to hand in your ID
bike? Don’t worry! The following bicycle rental firms
€ 17.00; for a full day: € 25.00; price re- card or driving licence CONTACT > tel.
will happily provide you with an iron steed. Let’s mount duction for students EXTRA > scooters +32 (0)50 33 31 33, www.snuffel.be
and tandem bicycles CYCLE MAP > free
that saddle! city map (not cycle map!), sale of maps
CITY
CARD
CONCERTGEBOUW B-BIKE
DETAILS > no deposit CONTACT > tel. +32 LOCATION > ’t Zand ADMISSION > 1 hour:
(0)50 34 32 62, www.fietsenpopelier.be € 4.00; for 4 hours: € 8.00; for a full day:
€ 12.00 (Brugge City Card: € 9.00) OPEN-
CITY
CARD
KOFFIEBOONTJE ING TIMES > 1/4-15/10: daily 10.00 a.m.
LOCATION > Hallestraat 4 ADMISSION > –12.00 a.m. and 1.00 p.m. – 7.00 p.m.;
a bike for 1 hour: € 4.00; for 4 hours: 16/10-31/3: weekends only 10.00 a.m. –
€ 8.00; for a full day: € 12.00 (Brugge 12.00 a.m. and 1.00 p.m. – 7.00 p.m.
City Card: € 9.00). Price of a tandem for CYCLE MAP > free city map and numer-
1 hour: € 10.00; for 4 hours: € 17.00; for ous city maps on loan DETAILS > you
a full day: € 25.00; students: full day at have to hand in your ID card CONTACT >
half-day fare EXTRA > mountain bikes, tel. +32 (0)479 97 12 80

114 115
QUASIMUNDO BIKETOURS BRUGES chanting places of the Polders. It goes
> ‘Bruges By Bike’: March – November, without saying that we will also halt at a
daily 10.00 a.m. – 12.30 p.m. pleasant café for some Belgian beers
Discover the city’s unique character and/or Belgian waffles. On our return
and medieval street pattern riding we follow the beautiful poplar-planted
along quiet backstreets. banks of a canal and reveal some of
> ‘Bruges By Night’: July and August Bruges’ best-kept secrets.
only, 7.30 p.m. – 10.00 p.m.
Bruges at night is even more alluring 10.25 a.m. – 2.00 p.m. : ‘Damme and the
and romantic than by day. Discover the Polders’ takes you to medieval Damme
city during this fairy-tale bike ride. and allows you to discover the flat Flem-
> ‘The Ommeland By Bike’: March – end ish polders and the Damse Vaart, the
November, daily 1.00 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. A dead straight canal that leads to
tour through the flat countryside around Damme. Meeting Point: Belfry. English
Bruges, passing through medieval towns spoken but we are multilingual. A
such as Damme, peaceful Flemish agrar- Dutch- or French-speaking guide can be
ian villages and dead straight canals. arranged. Tailor-made group arrange-

Guided Bicycle Trips Meeting Point: Toyo Ito pavilion on Burg,


ments. Booking recommended.
FEE > € 21,00. Youngsters under 27:
ten minutes before departure of tour. € 18.00. Children under 9: free;
English and Dutch spoken. Guides are € 15.00 if you bring your own bike. IN-
Are you game for some great sightseeing but loath to have also available in French, German and FORMATION > tel. +32 (0)50 61 66 86,
Spanish. Booking is recommended. Tai- www.pinkbear.freeservers.com
to rummage for your map in your rucksack all the time?
lor-made group arrangements. FEE >
Then join one of the guided bike tours and follow the tracks € 24,00. Youngsters under 27: € 20.00. THE GREEN BIKE TOUR
Children under 9: free; € 15.00 if you A guided trip to the polders, the flat
of a local guide. You will discover tiny villages chock-full bring your own bike. Tour includes countryside around Bruges. The tour
of atmosphere like Damme and Oostkerke, ride along guide, raincoat, water and refreshment pulls up at medieval Damme and other
in a local café. INFORMATION > tel. +32 important sights along the way for a lit-
canals that are straight as a poker and traverse one (0)50 33 07 75, www.quasimundo.eu tle extra commentary. 10.00 a.m. to early
afternoon from April to October. By ap-
of Europe’s loveliest rural regions. In short, we promise
THE PINK BEAR BIKE TOURS pointment only during the low season.
you an idyllic day out topped off with a local ale in an A mere five minutes away from bustling Meeting point: [Concertgebouw].
Bruges lies one of the prettiest rural ar- English, Dutch and French spoken.
authentic Flemish café.
eas in Europe. We take you to historic Booking recommended. Tailor-made
Damme, the handsome medieval mar- group arrangements. FEE > € 15,00;
ket town, once Bruges’ outport. A guide € 9.00 if you bring your own bike.
will furthermore show you the most en- INFORMATION > tel. +32 (0)50 61 26 67

116 117
CITY
CARD
BOUDEWIJN SEAPARK BRUGGE HISTORICAL KIDS’ TRAIL
A jolly dolphin amusement park This adventurous walk allows kids to
chock-a-block with attractions. The discover the city through varied
dolphins steal the show at the dolphi- look&search assignments, funny
narium, the sea lions perform a spec- anecdotes and amusing facts. The
tacular show at the open air theatre, accompanying map includes child-
and the panoramic aquaramas provide friendly tips and detailed information
a thrilling underwater view. on museums, cinemas and amuse-

Tailor-made OPENING TIMES > July and August: daily


10.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m.; Easter Holidays:
ment parks. Bruges – children allowed
costs € 1.00 and is available in Dutch,

for Children
10.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m.; May and June: French and English at the information
daily (except Wednesday) 10.00 a.m. – office [Concertgebouw], ’t Zand.
5.00 p.m.; September: every Wednes-
day, Saturday and Sunday 10.00 a.m. – INDOOR PLAYGROUNDS
5.00 p.m. ADMISSION > € 23.50; These indoor playgrounds offer a
A dolphinarium full of happy dolphins, a public observatory
Children under 13 and 60+: € 19.50. handy solution for boisterous birthday
that allows you to gaze endlessly at the stars, a working Children under 1 metre tall: free; parties, school excursions or rainy
Pay&Display car park: € 6.00. Brugge days. And whilst the kids let their hair
children’s farm and countless swimming pools and indoor
City Card rate: € 12.00 INFORMATION down, the adults can keep an eye on
playgrounds. Bruges spoils her smallest visitors rotten with AND TICKETS > A. De Baeckestraat 12, them from the cafeteria.
St.-Michiels, www.boudewijnseapark.
an exciting mix of tailor-made animation. Or do you prefer be; Tickets at the amusement park en- DE TOVERPLANEET

a city walk with the whole family? Then join the historical trance or at the information office OPENING TIMES > Wednesday 1.00 p.m. –
[Concertgebouw]. Boudewijn Sea Park 8.00 p.m. Friday 3.30 p.m. – 8.00 p.m.
kids’ walk and unlock Bruges’ secrets by way of amusing is situated just outside the city centre Saturday, Sunday and school holidays
and is connected to the Bicycle Route 10.30 a.m. – 8.00 p.m.; May be closed on
look&search assignments.
Network. Bus: nr. 7 & nr. 17 – departure hot summer days. ADMISSION > € 6.00.
’t Zand (map: C10) & Biekorf, After 5.00 p.m. € 5.00. Children
Kuipersstraat (map: E8). under 3 and accompanying adults: free.

118 119
INFORMATION > Legeweg 88, OPENING TIMES > Free from sunrise to OPENING TIMES > Domain: daily from 8.30 p.m.; Extra presentations during
St.-Andries, www.detoverplaneet.be; sunset. Cafeteria open from Tuesday sunrise to sunset; Nature centre: every school holidays: Monday, Tuesday and
Bus: nr. 9. Departure: Rozenhof to Sunday: 11.30 a.m. – 9.00 p.m. day 2.00 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. (except Sat- Thursday at 3.00 p.m.; Information on
(map A10) ADMISSION > Free entry. There’s a urday). Sunday and public holidays foreign language presentations at the
charge for activities that require 2.00 p.m. – 6.00 p.m.; Herb Garden: information office at the Concert-
HET OVERDEKTE SPEELDORP supervision: € 1.00 per child from daily from 1/5 to 15/10, 2.00 p.m. – gebouw and at the railway station.
OPENING TIMES > Opening times: schools or organisations outside 5.00 p.m. Closed Saturday. Guided tour ADMISSION > € 5.00;
School holidays, weekends, Bruges. A € 1.00 surcharge for activi- available, tel. +32 (0) 50 32 90 27 Youngsters under 18: € 4.00
public holidays and Wednesdays: ties that require the use of educational ADMISSION > Free INFORMATION > Zeeweg 96,
1.00 p.m. – 6.00 p.m.; Outside these resources. INFORMATION > Zeeweg 96, Sint-Andries, www.beisbroek.be; Bus:
periods only for schooltrips, booking INFORMATION > Canadaring 41, Sint-Andries; Bus: nr. 52 Brugge/ nr. 52 Brugge/Gistel/Oostende – nr. 53
mandatory. Assebroek; Bus: nr. 2 A.Z. St.-Lucas/ Gistel/Oostende – nr. 53 Brugge/ Brugge/Jabbeke. Departure: ’t Zand
ADMISSION > € 5.00. Children under 3 Assebroek. Departure: Railway station Jabbeke. Departure: ’t Zand and and railway station (map C10 and B13)
and accompanying adults: free. (map B13) railway station (map C10 and B13)
INFORMATION > Diksmuidestraat 5, SWIMMING POOLS
www.speeldorp.be; Bus: nr. 14. Depar- BEISBROEK MUNICIPAL DOMAIN JAN GUILINI
ture: Krakelebrug or De Veste (map E3) AND TUDOR Keizer Karelstraat 41, bus: nr. 9,
Two vast areas of natural beauty Stop: Visartpark
ensure endless hours of walking and
playing enjoyment. The immense INTERBAD
Beisbroek castle park includes Veltemweg 35, 8310 Brugge, bus: nr. 11,
woods, heathland, a deer enclosure Stop: Sint-Andreaslyceum
and an educational nature trail, while
its nature centre spoils nature lovers OLYMPIA
with an interactive exhibition and BEISBROEK PUBLIC OBSERVATORY Doornstraat 110, 8200 Brugge,
a field laboratory. A stone’s throw This public observatory zooms in on the bus: nr. 25, Stop: Jan Breydel
away from Beisbroek is another sun, the stars and the planets. Its mod-
CHILDREN’S FARM magnet: the Tudor Municipal Domain. ern planetarium, interactive exhibition All opening times available at the
DE ZEVEN TORENTJES Although the Tudor-style castle and well-equipped observatory unlock information office at the Concert-
This 14th-century farmstead houses catches the eye, its ornamental the secrets of the galaxies. The planet gebouw or at the Railway Station.
a merry working children’s farm with garden and herb garden are also trail that starts at the castle is a clever
a superb recreation area and a gaggle more than worth the while. The park scale model illustrating the distance
of farmyard animals. The beautifully itself boasts pastures and gigantic between the various planets: each
restored dovecot and the Gothic deciduous trees. The Chartreuzinnen- footstep corresponds to nine million
barn are also worth a visit. The educa- bos (wood of the Carthusian nuns) space kilometres.
tional component can be found at links the 40 hectares of the Tudor OPENING TIMES > Planetarium presen-
www.brugge.be under kinderboerderij Domain with the 98 hectares of tations: Wednesday and Sunday at
(children’s farm) the Beisbroek Domain. 3.00 p.m. and 4.30 p.m. Friday at

120 121
Bruges’ wet- and woodlands
VISITORS CENTRE LISSEWEGE
The visitors centre traces the one thou-
sand-year-old history of this white
village by way of unique photos, maps,
models and a collection of archeologic
finds from the erstwhile Cistercian
abbey of Ter Doest.
OPENING TIMES > 1/7-30/9: daily
2.00 p.m. – 5.30 p.m.
CHURCH OF OUR LADY VISITATION ADMISSION > € 2.00; Children
LISSEWEGE aged to 11: € 1.00
This impressive brick church was INFORMATION > Oude Pastoriestraat 5,
erected in an early Gothic style in the Lissewege, www.lissewege.be
13th century. The remarkable interior
counts amongst its treasures a mirac-

Get Even More Out of ulous statue of the Virgin Mary (1625),
a striking organ-case and an equally

Your Stay in Bruges


stunning rood loft and pulpit. A truly
great attraction is the monumental
church tower. The top offers a magnifi-
cent panoramic view of the polders.
OPENING TIMES > The church: daily,
Do you have any extra time on your hands? Why then don’t
10.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. In summer
you set out and discover Bruges’ wide surroundings? While 9.00 a.m. till 7.00 p.m.; the tower: TER DOEST ABBEY BARN
1/7 – 15/9, 2.00 p.m. – 5.00 p.m. The commanding early Gothic abbey
Bruges’ wet- and woodlands treats you to medieval areas of
ADMISSION > Church: free; tower: barn (14th century) of this former
natural beauty, glorious castles and endless bike routes € 4,00; children aged to 11: € 0,50 12th-century Cistercian abbey has only
INFORMATION > Stationstraat 23, recently been completely restored.
that crisscross all those enchanting places, the coast offers Lissewege, tel. +32 (0)499 14 19 57 The dovecote (1651) and monumental
countless splendid beaches and an authentic seafaring (tower guard), www.lissewege.be gatehouse (1662) have also withstood
the ravages of time brilliantly.
ambiance. And if you’re looking for something more OPENING TIMES > Daily 10.00 a.m. –
5.00 p.m.
intense, then head for the tranquil Westhoek, still dominat-
INFORMATION > Ter Doeststraat 4,
ed by the Great War. Each experience will guarantee some Lissewege, www.lissewege.be

unforgettable memories!

122 123
BRUGES’ WET- AND WOODLANDS BRUGES’ WET- AND WOODLANDS

what would this tour be without some ticket: € 5.00; students: € 1.50; Brugge
delicious waffles, mouth-watering City Card rate: € 1.50 INFORMATION >
chocolate and a choice selection of Jacob van Maerlantstraat 3, Damme,
Belgian country ales? > Excursions on tel. +32 (0)50 46 10 80,
Monday, Wednesday and Friday from www.toerismedamme.be
February to December. You are collect-
ed at the Parkhotel on ‘t Zand (Map:C9)
at 9.15 a.m. and brought back to the ho-
tel at around 5.00 p.m. If requested, you
CITY
CARD
LAMME GOEDZAK DAMME can be collected from your own hotel.
The nostalgic river boat Lamme Goedzak ADMISSION > € 60.00; youngsters under
plies between Noorweegse Kaai in Brug- 26: € 50.00; including packed lunch
es and the centre of Damme. A bus takes and entrance fees INFORMATION >
you from Bruges’ railway station or tel. 0800 975 25 or +32(0)50 37 04 70,
Markt to the river boat’s jetty and back. www.quasimodo.be
CITY
CARD
> 1/4-15/10: departures from Bruges to SAINT-JOHN’S HOSPITAL DAMME
Damme: daily at 10.00 a.m., 12.00 a.m., Thirteenth-century Saint-John’s Hos-
2.00 p.m., 4.00 p.m. and 6.00 p.m.; depar- pital possesses an impressive collec-
CITY
CARD
tures from Damme to Bruges: daily at UILENSPIEGELMUSEUM DAMME tion of liturgical objects and an inter-
9.15 a.m., 11.00 a.m., 1.00 p.m., 3.00 p.m. Would you like to know more about Tijl esting selection of unusual furniture,
and 5.20 p.m. ADMISSION > € 6.00 (one- Uilenspiegel and his pranks and tom- paintings and earthenware. The hos-
way ticket) or € 7.50 (return ticket); 65+: fooleries? And would you like to meet pital’s chapel is open to visitors except
€ 5.50 (one-way ticket) or € 6.50 (return his clones from all over the world and during services. Why not kill two birds
ticket); children aged 3 to 11: € 4.50 understand the cultural-historical con- with one stone and discover not only
(one-way ticket) or € 5.50 (return ticket); text of this capricious figure? Then this fine collection but also the special
Brugge City Card rate: € 5.50 INFORMA- CITY TOUR DAMME Damme is your destination. Here you place where the objects belonged
TION > Noorweegse Kaai 31, Brugge, City Tour minibuses drop you off at will not only shake hands with the fa- and where they were once used on
www.bootdammebrugge.be Damme. Having sailed back to Bruges mous Flemish Uilenspieghel from the a daily basis?
  on Lamme Goedzak two hours later, 19th century, but also with his 16th-cen- OPENING TIMES > Easter to 30/9: 11.00-
TRIPLE TREAT QUASIMODO TOUR: you will be picked up by the bus at the tury German colleague and his various 12.00 a.m. and 2.00-6.00 p.m.; Closed
CHOCOLATE, WAFFLES AND BEER jetty and transferred to Markt, Bruges’ 20th-century brothers. OPENING TIMES > Monday morning and Friday morning;
Take it easy on this English-language central square. > Excursions: April- 16/4 – 15/10: weekdays 9.00-12.00 a.m. annual closure from 1/10 to 31/3
minibus tour, which takes you to a.o. September, daily at 4.00 p.m. Commen- and 2.00-6.00 p.m.; Saturday, Sunday ADMISSION > € 1.50; family ticket:
illustrious Tillegem Castle and unique tary in French, Italian, Dutch, English, and public holidays 10.00-12.00 a.m. and € 3.00; 65+ and disabled persons:
Neo-Gothic Loppem Château. Included German and Spanish can be requested. 2.00-6.00 p.m.; 16/10 – 15/4: weekdays € 1.00; Brugge City Card rate: € 1.00
are a pleasant stroll through medieval Departure from Markt. ADMISSION > 9.00 -12.00 a.m. and 2.00-5.00 p.m.; Sat- INFORMATION > Kerkstraat 33, Damme,
Damme and a visit to the Gothic abbey € 24.00; children aged 6 to 11: € 16.00 urday, Sunday and public holidays 2.00- tel. +32 (0)50 46 10 80,
barn of Ter Doest at Lissewege. And INFORMATION > www.citytour.be 5.00 p.m. ADMISSION > € 2.50; family www.toerismedamme.be

124 125
BRUGES’ WET- AND WOODLANDS

A Trip To the Seaside


CITY
CARD
HARBOUR ROUND TRIP
ZEEBRUGGE
The round trip departs from the old
fishing port and sails past the naval
base, the Pierre Vandamme Lock (one
of the largest in the world), the LNG
terminal, the wind farm park, Stern
CITY CITY
CARD CARD
PERMEKE MUSEUM JABBEKE ROMAN ARCHAEOLOGICAL Island and the cruise ships and dredg-
Constant Permeke, the most famous MUSEUM OUDENBURG ers. All the time gigantic container
CITY
CARD
Flemish expressionist painter, lived and After years of trudging through mud, ships are being loaded and unloaded SEAFRONT ZEEBRUGGE
worked in Jabbeke for more than twenty painstaking excavations and studies, along the quays. An experience that This maritime theme park in the old
years. His abode was the The Four Oudenburg today possesses a unique offers a unique insight into the harbour fish market plunges the visitor in the
Winds, a striking villa commissioned by collection of archaeological artefacts and its manifold activities. harsh world of the fisherman, the
the artist himself and built, for its time, from Roman times. The good news is OPENING TIMES > May, June and Sep- history of Zeebrugge’s port and life
in extremely modern design. Today it is that the visitor can pore over them at the tember: Weekends and public holi- below the sea. Children will enjoy
the location of the Permeke Museum, modernised museum. The reconstruc- days, 2.00 p.m.; July and August: daily the Russian submarine Foxtrot, the
where the visitor can wander around the tions, scale-models, archaeological at 2.00 p.m. and 4.00 p.m. Dinner- lightship West-Hinder and the brand-
artist’s living quarters as well as his finds and computer simulations enable dance on Saturday night. new pirates’ paradise.
garden and former studios. It is without you to get to grips with the region’s rich ADMISSION > € 9.00; 60+: € 8.50; chil- OPENING TIMES > Daily 10.00 a.m. –
doubt the place par excellence to ad- Roman history in a professional way. The dren between 3 and 11: € 6.80; Brugge 6.00 p.m.; July and August 10.00 a.m.
mire in total peace and quiet Permeke’s adjacent visitor centre brings you also up City Card rate: € 6.75; combination – 7.00 p.m.; closed 1/1, 4/1-22/1 and
collection of a hundred and fifty of his to date with the Abbey of Saint-Peter’s, tickets Seafront/Euro-Line: € 17.50; 25/12 ADMISSION > € 10.50; Children up
spellbinding works. Saint-Arnold and the other attractions of children under 12: € 15.30 to 1 metre (accompanied by parent):
OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday this region. OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to INFORMATION > Tijdokstraat free; children under 12: € 8.50; 60+:
10.00-12.30 a.m. and 1.30-6.00 p.m. (till Saturday 10.00-12.30 a.m. and 1.30- (Old Fishing Port), Zeebrugge. € 10.00; Brugge City Card rate: € 7.00
5.30 p.m. from 1/10 to 31/3); annual clo- 5.30 p.m. Sunday 2.00-5.30 p.m. ADMIS- www.euro-line.be INFORMATION > Vismijnstraat 7,
sure: 1/1 and 25/12 SION > Visitor Centre: free; museum: Zeebrugge, www.seafront.be
ADMISSION > € 3.00; OAP’s: € 2.50; € 5.00; children and youngsters between THE BEACH AT ZEEBRUGGE
CITY
CARD
youngsters under 26: € 1.00; children 7 and 18: € 2.00; students: € 2.00; chil- In winter this is the place par excel- EARTH EXPLORER OOSTENDE
under 16: free; Brugge City Card rate: dren under 6 (accompanied by an adult): lence to get a breath of fresh air. In Earth, water, wind and fire. That’s what
€ 2.25 free, disabled persons: € 3.00; members summer the townspeople of Bruges it is all about at this scientific amuse-
INFORMATION > Gistelsteenweg 341, of the Flemish Museum Society and the flock to this wide and safe sandy strip ment park unequalled in the world.
Jabbeke, tel. +32 (0)59 50 81 18 (Mu.Zee International Council of Museums: free; to sunbathe, swim and potter about. Feel in your bones what an earthquake
- Kunstmuseum aan zee); for guided Brugge City Card rate: € 3.00 INFORMA- And why not take a train to the beach? is like, explore life in the ocean from a
tours please contact the Mu.Zee – TION > Weststraat 24, Oudenburg, It’s a piece of cake! Adjacent to the submarine, find yourself in the eye of
Kunstmuseum aan Zee in Oostende. tel. +32 (0)59 56 84 00 beach is the summer railway station! a storm and witness a devastating vol-

126 127
EEN UITSTAPJE NAAR ZEE EEN UITSTAPJE NAAR ZEE

canic eruption. What thrills! The Ex- OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday:
plorer Zones offer plenty of hands-on 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m.
activities, whereas the Discovery ADMISSION > Permanent collection:
Room allows you to watch experiments € 6.00; discounts: € 5.00; youngsters
and demonstrations. under 26: € 1.00; children under 13: free;
OPENING TIMES > Easter holidays to entrance fees are increased for exhibi-
31 August: daily from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 tions; Brugge City Card rate: € 4.50 IN-
p.m. Last entry: 5.00 p.m. ADMISSION > FORMATION > Romestraat 11, Oostende,
€ 14.50; Students, 60+ and disabled per- tel. +32 (0)59 50 81 18, www.muzee.be,
CITY CITY
CARD CARD
sons: € 12.50; children between 4 and 12: Public transport: Buses 6 and 14 SEA LIFE MARINE PARK ’T ZWIN KNOKKE-HEIST
€ 10.50; Brugge City Card rate: € 10.90 BLANKENBERGE The tides have complete free play in
CITY
CARD
INFORMATION > Fortstraat 128b, ENSOR MUSEUM OOSTENDE Cute seals, dangerous-looking sharks, this famous nature reserve that covers
Oostende, tel. +32 (0)59 70 59 59, Oostende is your destination if you sluggish turtles: all these wonderful 125 hectares. The result is a remark-
www.earthexplorer.be; public transport: want to wander through the mind of sea creatures await you at this top at- able panorama of mud flats, salt
coast tram James Ensor (1860-1949). This house traction in Blankenberge. You also get marshes, dunes and creeks. Many bird
was indeed the operating base of the acquainted with the fauna and flora of species, too, are attracted to this area.
world-famous painter from 1917 on- the North Sea, you see for yourself They come to brood or rest during their
wards. This is where he lived and how the SOS-Rescue programme for great migration. A few couples of
worked. His aunt and uncle’s shell and seals is operating and you gaze in awe storks for example nestle down here
souvenir shop on the ground floor has and admiration at the tropical sharks each and every year. In summer the
been carefully reconstructed, while the in the underwater tunnel. Or do you rare sea lavender or zwinneblomme
first floor serves as a documentation prefer penguins, Japanese spider (flower of the Zwin) paints the land-
centre. The second floor displays the crabs and dwarf otters? Not to worry! scape purple: it is a spectacle you truly
artist’s salon studio. This space is so No fewer than 1,500 underwater crea- don’t want to miss!
moving that you immediately forget tures will show you their best side. OPENING TIMES > Easter to 30/9, daily
CITY
CARD
MU.ZEE OOSTENDE that you’re looking at reproductions OPENING TIMES > Daily from 10.00 a.m. from 9.00 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.; October to
This contemporary museum from 1953 rather than original works. Closing times may vary. Annual clo- Easter, daily 9.00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.;
offers a stirring overview of Belgian OPENING TIMES > Wednesday to Mon- sure: 1/1 (morning) and 25/12 Closed Monday (except during school
20th-century art. The School of Latem day: 10.00-12.00 a.m. and 2.00-5.00 ADMISSION > € 16,50; Children from 3 to holidays or public holidays)
is well represented, as is abstract art. p.m. ADMISSION > € 2,00; Students and 11: € 13.00; OAP’s, students, disabled ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
Some early work by René Magritte can OAP’s: € 1.00; Youngsters under 18: persons: € 15.50; Brugge City Card 1/1 and 25/12
also be admired. Kids are welcome, too! free; Brugge City Card rate: € 1.50 rate: € 12.50 ADMISSION > € 5.20; OAP’s: € 4.40;
The children’s section allows your off- INFORMATION > Vlaanderenstraat 27, INFORMATION > Koning Albert I- Children between 6 and 11: € 3.20
spring to have a go at art in a playful Oostende, tel. +32 (0)59 50 33 37 (recep- laan 116, Blankenberge, tel. +32 (0)50 Brugge City Card rate: € 4.00
way. It’s child’s play, as a matter of fact! tion) or +32 (0) 497 59 55 76, www.oost- 42 43 00, www.sealife.be, Public trans- INFORMATION > Graaf Leon Lippens-
And why not drop in on one of the great, ende.be. Public transport: Centrumbus port: the coast tram has a stop right in dreef 8, Knokke-Heist,
high-profiled exhibitions? I bet you (alight at Vlaanderenstraat), coast tram front of the Sea Life Marine Park tel. +32 (0)50 60 70 86, www.zwin.be
won’t know where to look first! (alight at Marie-Joséplein)

128 129
BATTLEFIELDS: FLANDERS AND THE GREAT WAR

Battlefields: Flanders and the Great War Booking essential. English, Dutch and authentic film material that will make
French commentary. your heart bleed. This is history in its
ADMISSION > € 65.00; Youngsters under most moving form: it’s as if you’re cow-
26: € 60.00; Includes lunch (no pick- ering down in the trenches yourself or
nick); Special Day Tour on request witnessing the devastating destruction
(tailor-made) of the noble town of Ypres with your
own eyes. In short, this is a museum
The Last Post Tour is a short evening trip that you have to experience in order
to Ypres and back to see the Last Post to believe it.
ceremony at the Menin Gate. Departure OPENING TIMES > 1/4 to 15/11: daily
6.15 p.m. The tour finishes at 9.15 p.m. from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.; 16/11 to
QUASIMODO WWI English, Dutch and French commentary. 31/3: Tuesday to Sunday 10.00 a.m.
FLANDERS FIELDS TOUR FEE > € 40.00 to 5.00 p.m.; Last tickets 1 hour
Quasimodo takes you on a personal- INFORMATION > Tel. 0800 99 133 before closing time. Annual
ised and relaxing minibus tour to all or +32 (0)50 34 60 60, closure: first three weeks after the
the highlights: Passchendaele, Hill 60, www.visitbruges.org Christmas holidays
several cemeteries, trenches and bun- ADMISSION > € 8.00; Youngsters be-
CITY
CARD
kers, the Menin Gate and various IN FLANDERS FIELDS MUSEUM tween 7 and 25: € 1.00; Children under
ANZAC, Canadian, British and Irish YPRES 7: free; Brugge City Card rate: € 5.50
monuments. Our stories bring four Welcome to this moving interactive INFORMATION > Grote Markt 34,
years of terrible warfare in the Ypres FLANDERS FIELDS BATTLEFIELD museum delving into the history of the Ieper, tel. +32 (0)57 23 92 20,
Salient back to life. DAYTOURS Great War. Don’t expect a dry enumer- www.inflandersfields.be
OPENING TIMES > February to the end Small parties (maximum 8 people) and ation of facts and figures, but brace
of December: Sunday, Tuesday and individual passengers are collected at yourself for a fascinating display of
Thursday. April to October: daily except their hotel for a minibus tour to the modern techniques, sound effects and
Monday. You are collected at the Park Great War sights of the Westhoek. The
Hotel on ‘t Zand (Map: C9) at 9.15 a.m. Flanders Inside Out Tour alights at the
and brought back to the hotel at German cemetery in Langemark, Tyne
around 5.00 p.m. If requested, you can Cot Cemetery in Passchendaele, the
be collected at your own hotel. Menin Gate, the Pool of Peace on Kem-
FEE > English spoken; € 60.00; Young- melberg, Talbot House in Poperinge,
sters under 26: € 50.00; Tour includes the Trench of Death at Diksmuide, the
packed lunch and admission fees In Flanders Fields Museum at Ypres
INFORMATION > Tel. 0800 975 25 or and the Passchendaele Museum. Ca-
+32 (0)50 37 04 70, www.quasimodo.be nadian, Australian, Irish and American
monuments can be visited on request.
FEE > Tuesday – Sunday; Departure:
8.45 a.m. The tour finishes at 5.30 p.m.

130 131
BATTLEFIELDS: FLANDERS AND THE GREAT WAR

der 19: € 5.00; Family ticket: € 19.50; Other Places COLOPHON

Brugge City Card rate: € 6.00 of Interest This is a publication of Toerisme Brugge.
INFORMATION > Gasthuisstraat 43, CONCEPT AND CO-ORDINATION >
Poperinge, tel. +32 (0)57 33 32 28, Bram De Vos, Uitgeverij Lannoo
TEXTS > Sofie Allegaert, Jo Berten,
www.talbothouse.be
Brugge Plus vzw, Rudi Collier, Pierre
Darge, Toni De Coninck, Carine Decroos,
Laurens De Keyzer, Annelies Delchambre,
Bram De Vos, Dieter Dewulf, Noël
Geirnaert, Kurt Götze, Geert Gruyaert,
Evelien Vandenberghe, Ans Vanhoute,
Geert Van der Speeten, Dirk Van Tieghem,
Katelijne Vertongen
TRANSLATION > Joseph Pearce
DESIGN > Nele Reyniers,
CITY
CARD
TOUR OF FLANDERS CENTRE Uitgeverij Lannoo
TYPESETTING > Keppie & Keppie
OUDENAARDE
WITH THANKS > West-Vlaamse Gidsen-
This multifunctional visitor centre is kring Brugge, Koninklijke Gidsenbond
CITY
CARD
CANADA POLAND also multitalented: it is both a hands-on Brugge en West-Vlaanderen, S-wan vzw
PHOTOGRAPHY > Layla Aerts , Cel foto-
WAR MUSEUM ADEGEM museum and an exhibition space, a film
grafie Stad Brugge, Jens Compernolle,
If you want to be put in the picture of auditorium and a museum shop, and Jan Darthet, Michel Decleer, Steven
CITY
CARD
TALBOT HOUSE POPERINGHE Flanders during the Second World there is naturally a bicycle-themed Decroos, Boudewijn Dehaene,
Mieke De Jonghe, Daniël de Kievith,
Talbot House was the most famous sol- War, then the Canada Poland War Mu- brasserie as well. Plenty of multimedia
Daniël Devoldere, Diamantmuseum
dier’s home of the British forces during seum is the place to be. A number of techniques turn you into a protagonist Brugge, Luk Eeckhout, Bart Grietens,
the Great War. The house has remained reconstructed tableaux showing a.o. in the legendary Tour of Flanders. Ex- In Flanders Fields Museum, Sankai Juku,
Joris Luyten, Hugo Maertens,
in its authentic state until now. The the Battle of the Leopold Canal and a tensive information is provided at the
Musea Brugge, Johan Persson, Herman
large garden is still a haven of peace, vast collection of photographs, weap- counter, and if you’ve returned exhaust- Sorgeloos, Kris Struyf, Tom Van Nuffel,
and the restored Concert Hall is the ons and uniforms give an excellent in- ed from a bike tour, then a nice, hot Westtoer
CARTOGRAPHY > Johan Mahieu
place to watch Life Behind the Front, a sight into the war years. shower awaits you!
and Tatjana Matysik
life-size album of the soldiers’ exist- OPENING TIMES > April to October: OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday:
ence behind the lines. The historic con- Wednesday to Sunday, 10.00 a.m. – 10.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. December 2009. Toerisme Brugge can not
be held responsible for any inaccuracies
cert hall projects a 1917 Concert Party. 6.00 p.m.; November to March: ADMISSION > € 7.00; 65+ and students:
or change in prices.
It’s as if you step back into the turbu- Wednesday to Sunday, 10.00 a.m. – € 5.00; Family ticket: € 15.00; RESPONSIBLE EDITOR
lent times of the Great War. 12.00 a.m. Brugge City Card rate: € 5.00 Dieter Dewulf, PO Box 744, B-8000 Brugge

OPENING TIMES > Tuesday to Sunday: ADMISSION > € 5.00; Children under 6: INFORMATION > Markt 43, Oudenaarde,
9.30 a.m. – 5.30 p.m.; 15/11 – 14/2: free; Brugge City Card rate: € 4.00 tel. +32 (0)55 33 99 33, www.crvv.be,
Tuesday to Sunday 1.00 p.m. – INFORMATION > Heulendonk 21, Public transport: a bus links Oude- C I T Y MA P B R U G ES
5.00 p.m.; Last entry 4.30 p.m.; Closed Adegem, tel. +32 (0)50 71 06 66, naarde railway station (on the Ghent- Big city map for sale at the
from 22/12 until Tuesday after New www.canadamuseum.be Sint-Pieters to Ronse line) with Markt information office at the railway
Year ADMISSION > € 8.00; 65+: € 7.00; station or at
Children under 7: free; Youngsters un- the Concert-
gebouw.

132
PRACTICAL INFORMATION CLOSED > Friday afternoon 2.00 p.m.-3.30 p.m. PARKING INFORMATION > www.delijn.be
CHARGE > € 3.00 per hour
ADDRESS > corner of Langestraat and Bruges is a compact city. Most places of TAXIS
CASHPOINTS Predikherenstraat interest are within walking distance of your
INFORMATION > accommodation. In order to keep the historic TAXI RANKS >
DE POST > Markt 5 | Map: E8 telephone +32 (0)50 61 67 39 | Map: G8 city centre attractive and accessible, above- Markt: telephone +32 (0)50 33 44 44
KBC > Steenstraat 38 | Map: D9 » SNUFFEL BACKPACKER HOSTEL ground parking in the city centre is limited to Stationsplein: telephone +32 (0)50 38 46 60
FORTIS BANK > Simon Stevinplein 3 | Map: D9 CHARGE > € 1.00 per half hour a maximum of 4 hours in the Blue Zone and
EUROPABANK > Vlamingstraat 13 | Map: E8 ADDRESS > Ezelstraat 47-49 to 2 hours in the Pay&Display Zones. You can GETTING THERE
RAILWAY STATION > Stationsplein | Map: B13 INFORMATION > telephone +32 (0)50 33 31 33 easily park your car in one of the underground
info@snuffel.be | www.snuffel.be | Map: D6 car parks where you will pay a maximum of » BY TRAIN
CINEMAS » BAUHAUS € 8.70 for 24hrs. The most inexpensive and » London – Bruges by Eurostar in 3.05 hours,
CHARGE > € 1.00 for the first 15 minutes, largest car park is next to the railway station: one transfer in Brussels (station Midi/Zuid).
» Programmes: [Concertgebouw], ’t Zand then € 0.05 per minute the € 2.50 charge per day includes a bus » Also one transfer at Brussels (Midi/Zuid)
» All films are shown in their original language ADDRESS > Langestraat 145 transfer with De Lijn to the city centre. when coming from other European cities
» See also www.cinebel.be INFORMATION > telephone +32 (0)50 34 10 93 | These buses leave every three minutes. like Amsterdam, Paris, Rotterdam, Cologne
LUMIÈRE > Sint-Jakobsstraat 36 info@bauhaus.be | www.bauhaus.be | Map: I7 and Luxembourg.
www.lumiere.be | Map: D7 » CAR PARK CENTRUM-ZAND Multiple direct connections each day from
KINEPOLIS BRUGGE > Koning Albert I-laan MARKET DAYS CAPACITY > 1400 Brussels, Ghent and Antwerp, but also from
200 | www.kinepolis.com/brugge | Map: A14 OPENING TIMES > Sunday-Thursday: other Belgian cities to Bruges.
» WEDNESDAYS > 8.00 a.m.-1.00 p.m. | 7.00 a.m.-1.00 a.m., Friday-Saturday:
CHURCH SERVICES Markt | Food & Flowers 24/24hrs » BY CAR / COACH / FERRY
» SATURDAYS > 8.00 a.m.-1.00 p.m. | RATES > day rate: maximum € 8.70/24hrs | » Dover (Uk) – Dunkerque (F) with Norfolk-
» BEGUINAGE > Sunday 9.30 a.m. ’t Zand & Beursplein | Miscellaneous evening rate: maximum € 2.50 line | Dunkerque (F) > Bruges (B) by car:
» BASILICA OF THE HOLY BLOOD > » SUNDAYS > 8.00 a.m.-1.00 p.m. | Ten Briele, (from 7.00 p.m. to closing time). 45 miles / 50 minutes.
Sunday 11.00 a.m. Gemeenteafdeling Sint-Michiels | Miscella- » CAR PARK CENTRUM-STATION » Dover (Uk)– Calais (F) with Seafrance or
» HOLY FAMILY > Saturday 5.30 p.m. neous CAPACITY > 1500 P&O ferries | Calais (F) > Bruges by car:
» HOLY MAGDALENE > Sunday 11.30 a.m. » TUESDAYS TO SATURDAYS > OPENING TIMES > 24/7 72 miles / 80 minutes.
» CHURCH OF OUR LADY > Monday-Friday 8.00 a.m.-1.00 p.m. | Vismarkt | Fish RATES > € 0.50 per hour » Ramsgate (Uk)– Ostend (B) with Transeu-
9.00 a.m., Saturday 5.30 p.m., » SATURDAYS, SUNDAYS AND PUBLIC (maximum € 2.50/24hrs) ropaferries | Oostende > Bruges by car:
Sunday 11.00 a.m. HOLIDAYS > 15 March to 15 November | 10.00 15 miles / 25 minutes.
» CAPUCHINS > Saturday 6.00 p.m., a.m.-6.00 p.m. | Dijver | Antiques and bibelots BUSES » Hull (Uk)– Zeebrugge (B) with P&O ferries |
Sunday 7.00 a.m. & 10.30 a.m. Zeebrugge > Bruges by car: 10 miles /
» SAINT ANNE’S > Sunday 10.00 a.m. MEDICAL HELP You can use public transport during your 20 minutes.
» SAINT GILES’S > Sunday 10.00 a.m. stay. De Lijn connects the railway station » Rosyth (Uk)– Zeebrugge (B) with Norfolk-
» SAINT JACOB’S > Saturday 6.30 p.m. » DOCTORS ON DUTY > 7.00 p.m.-8.00 a.m. and the centre by a bus every three minutes. line | Zeebrugge > Bruges by car: 10 miles /
» SAINT SAVIOUR’S > Saturday 4.00 p.m., > telephone +32 (0)78 15 15 90 Furthermore, city line 12 “Centrum-Station- 20 minutes.
Sunday 10.30 a.m. » PHARMACISTS ON DUTY Bargeplein” is a continuous high-frequency
» SAINT WALBURGHA’S > Sunday 7.00 p.m. telephone +32 (0)900 10 500 shuttle between the most important city » BY PLANE
» ENGLISH CHURCH (ANGLICAN) / » S.O.S. EMERGENCY SERVICE > stops such as Markt (Map E8), Biekorf » Via Brussels Airport: daily flights from 200
Saint Peter’s Chapel, Keersstraat 1 > telephone 100 (Map E8), the railway station (Map C13) destinations in 66 countries. Easy access to
Sunday 6.00 p.m. » HOSPITALS and the Katelijne car park (Map E13). Bruges by train (one transfer in Brussels-
» UNITED PROTESTANT CHURCH / A.Z. St.-Jan > telephone +32 (0)50 45 21 11 The map at the back of this brochure contains Midi/Zuid).
’t Keerske, Keersstraat 1 > Sunday 10.00 a.m. St.-Lucas > telephone +32 (0)50 36 91 11 a handy overview of all bus stops. » Via Brussels-South-Charleroi-Airport:
» FREE EVANGELICAL CHURCH / St.-Franciscus Xaveriuskliniek > TICKETS > Multiple flights a week by low cost airlines
Naaldenstraat 18 > Sunday 10.00 a.m. telephone +32 (0)50 47 04 70 Ticket: € 1.20 advanced booking | from several European cities. Frequent
» ORTHODOX CHURCH / » POISONS ADVICE CENTRE > € 1.60 on bus train and bus connection between the
Ezelstraat 85 > Sunday 10.00 a.m. telephone +32 (0)70 245 245 Day Pass: € 5.00 advanced booking | airport and Bruges.
€ 6.00 on bus
INTERNET BUREAUX DE CHANGE ADVANCED BOOKING OFFICES > More information on www.bruges.be/transport
De Lijnwinkel, NMBS railway station con-
» TELEBOUTIQUE GOFFIN CHANGE > Steenstraat 2 | Map: E8 course Detailed train, bus and ferry timetables can be
OPENING TIMES > Monday to Saturday 10.00 PILLEN R.W.J > Rozenhoedkaai 2 | Map: F9 [Concertgebouw], ’t Zand obtained at the information office at the
a.m.-9.00 p.m. | Sunday 11.00 a.m.-9.00 p.m. Various city centre book shops Concertgebouw or at the Station.
Diksmuidestraat E3 Gerechtshof I8 Hoornstraat G7 Kazernevest I9 Kreupelenstraat B9 Mortierstraat C8
STREET NAMES Dirk Boutsstraat C4 Gevangenisstraat F9 Hortensiastraat H14 Keersstraat E8 Krom Genthof F6 Muntplein-Muntpoort D8
Dokwerkersstraat I1 Gieterijstraat C6 Houthulststraat C4 Kegelschoolstraat B9 Krommestraat G2 Muur Der Doodgeschotenen*
A Boninvest H11 I8
Driekoningenweg* J8 Gistelse Steenweg* A10 Hugo Losschaertstraat D6 Keizer Karelstraat B6 Kroonstraat B4
Academiestraat E7 Boomgaardstraat G8 Driekroezenstraat E11 Giststraat D9 Hugo Verrieststraat H7 Kelkstraat F8 Kruisboogstraat* I12
Achiel Van Ackerplein D6 N
Boterhuis D7 Driezwanenstraat G7 Gloribusstraat C10 Huidenvettersplein F9 Kemelstraat D9 Kruisvest I6
18-Oktoberstraat A10 Naaldenstraat D7
Boudewijn Ostenstraat* F7 Dudzeelse Steenweg G1 Goezeputstraat D10 Kersenboomstraat* H8 Kruitenbergstraat G9
Adriaan Willaertstraat E7 Neststraat C8
Boudewijn Ravestraat F11 I
Dweersstraat C9 Gombertstraat (Nikolaas) D3 Ketsbruggestraat C13 Kuipersstraat E8
Albrecht Rodenbachstraat* Nieuwe Gentweg F10
Braambergstraat F9 Ieperstraat E8
Gotje G5 Kipstraat E7 Kwekersstraat I8
H7 Nieuwstraat E9
Brandstraat B8 E IJzerstraat E3
Gouden-Boomstraat B5 Klaverstraat D5
Altebijstraat J9 Nijverheidsstraat I10
Breidelstraat E8 Edestraat J4 L
Gouden-Handrei F6 Kleine H. Geeststraat* D10
Annuntiatenstraat F5 J Niklaas Desparsstraat E8
Britse Kaai F1 Edward De Denestraat* G13 Lane B9
Gouden-Handstraat F6 Kleine Hertsbergestraat* G8
Arsenaalstraat E12 Jagerstraat* A14 Nikolaas Gombertstraat D3
Brugse-Mettenstraat* J7 Eekhoutpoort F10 Lange Raamstraat F6
Goudsmedenstraat F10 Kleine Hoedenmakersstr.* E6
Artoisstraat C9 Jakobijnessenstraat F11 Noord-Gistelhof E6
Buiten Begijnenvest C13 Eekhoutstraat F9 Langerei G4
Graaf Visartpark B6 Kleine Hoefi jzerstraat* C9
Augustijnenrei E6 Jakob van Ooststraat E7 Noordstraat E11
Buiten Boeverievest* B11 Eiermarkt E8 Langestraat H8
Graaf De Mûelenaerelaan H2 Kleine Kuipersstraat C8
Azijnstraat* D6 James Wealestraat E4 Noordzandstraat D9
Buiten Boninvest H11 Eiland C12 Lange Vesting A9
Grauwwerkersstraat D7 Kleine Nieuwstraat F5
Jan Blockxstraat G12 Noorweegse Kaai I3
Buiten de Dampoort* H3 Elf-Julistraat D5 Lauwerstraat A5
B Greinschuurstraat B9 Kleine Sint-Amandsstr.* E8
Jan Boninstraat D6
Buiten de Smedenpoort* A10 Elisabeth Zorghestraat G6 L. De Potterstraat J1
Bakkersstraat C10 Groenerei G8 Kleine Sint-Jansstraat B8 O
Jan Breydellaan A8
Buiten Gentpoortvest G12 Emile Cousindok F1 Leemputstraat B9
Baliestraat F5 Groenestraat C7 Klokstraat B10 Oliebaan H5
Jan Miraelstraat E6
Buiten Katelijnevest F13 Emman. De Neckerstraat B5 Leestenburg H4
Balsemboomstraat I8 Groeninge E10 Kloostermuur J5 O.-L.- V.-kerkhof-Zuid* E10
Jan Moritoenstraat* G13
Buiten Kazernevest J9 Engelsestraat F7 Leeuwstraat D7
Balstraat H7 Gruuthusestraat E10 Koetelwijk H2 Ontvangersstraat D8
Jan van Eyckplein F7
Buiten Kruisvest I6 Engelstraat G9 Leffi ngestraat G8
Bapaumestraat I7 Guido Gezellelaan B9 Kolenkaai C3 Oostendse Steenweg A1
Jan van Ruusbroecstraat G13
Buiten Smedenvest* A9 Esseboomstraat I8 Leliestraat H14
Bargeplein E13 Guido Gezelleplein E10 Komvest E3 Oosterlingenplein F7
Jasmijnstraat H14
Burg F8 Eugeen Van Oyestraat G14 Lendestraat D10
Bargeweg E13 Guido Gezellewarande* H7 Konfijtstraat I9 Oost-Gistelhof F6
Jeruzalemstraat G7
Burgstraat* F8 E. van ‘t Padstraat H12 Leo van Geluwestraat A2
Baron Jos. Ryelandtstraat A5 Gulden-Peerdenstraat I13 Koning Albert I-laan A13 Oostmeers D11
Joe Englishstraat A4
Ezelpoort C5 Leopold I-laan A5
Baron Ruzettelaan F14 Gulden-Vlieslaan C6 Koningin Astridpark G10 Oost-Proosse H4
C Joost de Damhouderstr. G7
Ezelstraat D6 Leopold II-laan C3
Baron Ruzettepark* E3 G. Vincke-Dujardinstraat* B4 Koningin Elisabethlaan D4 Oranjeboomstraat* D10
Calvariebergstraat F4 Jozef Suvéestraat F9
Loppemstraat E9
Beaupréstraat J9 Koningstraat F7 Oude Burg E9
Camiel v/d Busschestraat F Jozef Wautersstraat* A14
H Louis Coiseaukaai G1
Beeldenmakersstraat F10 J14 Koolbrandersstraat D10 Oude Gentweg F11
Filips De Goedelaan B6 Julius Delaplacestraat J6
Haanstraat C9 Luikstraat D3
Beenhouwersstraat C7 C. v/d Walle de Ghelckestraat Koolkerkse Steenweg I2 Oude Zak C7
Filips Wielantstraat H13 Julius Dooghelaan J5
G14 Haarhakkerstraat H4
Begijnenvest D12 Koolstuk J5 Oude Zomerstraat* E9
Fonteinstraat B10 Julius & M. Sabbestraat F4 M
Carmersstraat G6 Hadewijchstraat H13
Begijnhof D11 Koopmansstraat I8
Fort Lapin H2 J. Van Praetstraat J1 Maagdendal E5
Cesar Gezellestraat H12 Hallestraat E9 P
Bekeweg B1 Kopstraat D8
Freren Fonteinstraat G9 Maagdenstraat B10
Chartreuseweg* A14 Hans Memlinglaan A7 Paalstraat B9
Beursplein B10 K Korte Blekersstraat* G7
Maalse Steenweg J8
Colettijnenstraat E12 Hauwerstraat B10 Palmstraat D8
Bevrijdingslaan A7 G Kalkovenstraat D6 Korte Raamstraat* F6
Magdalenastraat A11
Collaert Mansionstraat F5 Havenstraat G2 ’t Pand F10
Biddersstraat E5 Ganzenplein* H9 Kammakersstraat B9 Korte Riddersstraat F7
Mallebergplaats F8
Cordoeaniersstraat E8 Heilige-Geeststraat D10 Pandreitje F9
Biezenstraat D5 Ganzenstraat H9 Kandelaarstraat G8 Korte Rijkepijndersstraat*
Marcus Laurinstraat J6
Coupure G9 Helmstraat D8 H6 Pannebekestraat I1
Bilkske H8 Gapaardstraat G10 Kantwerkersplein* H7
Mariastraat E10
Hemelrijk H5 Korte Ropeerdstraat* H6 Paradijsstraat I4
Binnenweg* G1 Garenmarkt F10 Kapelstraat E5
D Maria van Bourgondiëlaan A6
Hendrik Consciencelaan B10 Korte Sint-Annastraat G7 Park G9
Biskajersplein F7 Garsoenstraat C11 Kardinaal Mercierstraat C4
Dampoortstraat J6 Markt E8
Hendrik Waelputstraat A2 Korte Speelmansstraat* H6 Past. V. Haecke plantsoen*
Blankenbergse Steenweg A2 Geernaartstraat* E8 Karel Defl oustraat A4
Damse Vaart-Zuid I3 Meestraat F8 C6
Hertsbergestraat F8 Korte Sportstraat J4
Blekerijstraat I11 Geerolfstraat F9 Karel de Stoutelaan A6
Daverlostraat H12 Middelburgstraat* F8 Pater Damiaanstraat C7
Hoedenmakersstraat E6 Korte Vuldersstraat C10
Blekersstraat G7 Geerwijnstraat D8 Karel van Manderstraat J5
De Garre* E8 Minderbroedersstraat G9 Pathoekeweg D1
Hoefi jzerlaan B8 Kortewinkel E7
Blinde-Ezelstraat F9 Geldmuntstraat D8 Kartuizerinnenstraat E9
Delaplacestraat (Julius) J6 Minneboplein* G8 Paul Delvauxstraat J1
Hof Sebrechts C8 Korte Zilverstraat D8
Bloedput B7 Generaal Lemanlaan I12 Kartuizersstraat J6
De Tuintjes J4 Minnewater E12 Peerdenstraat G8
Hoogste van Brugge C10 Koudemarkt F10
Bloemenstraat H13 Genthof F7 Kastanjeboomstraat E10
Dhoorestraat I13 Moerkerkestraat H9 Peperstraat H7
Hoogstraat F8 Kraanplein E7
Blokstraat D5 Gentpoortstraat G11 Kasteelgeleed B1
Diamantslijpersstraat F10 Moerkerkse Steenweg J7 Peter Benoitlaan A7
Hoogstuk H10 Kraanrei* E7
Boeveriestraat B10 Gentpoortvest F12 Katelijnestraat E12
Dijver E9 Moerstraat D8 Peterseliestraat H5
Hooistraat H9 Krakeleweg E1
Bollaardstraat C8 Gerard Davidstraat A4 Katelijnevest E12
Molenmeers G8 Philipstockstraat E8

136 137
Pieter Pourbusstraat E7 Sint-Claradreef E4 Stoelstraat I7 Wapenmakersstraat F8 KEY HISTORIC SITES AND PUBLIC OR SEMI-
Pijpersstraat D10 Sint-Clarastraat E5 Stokersstraat G4 Weidestraat H14 PLACES OF INTEREST PUBLIC BUILDINGS
Pleinstraat B1 Sint-Gillisdorpstraat* F5 Stoofstraat E10 Werfplein D4 Ring (road): two-way
Poitevinstraat D6 Sint-Gilliskerkhof F6 Strostraat G7 Werfstraat D4 traffic H10 01 Conzett bridge F8 01 Administrative
Potentestraat A1 Sint-Gilliskerkstraat F6 Sulferbergstraat E12 Werkhuisstraat F11 centre ‘t Brugse
Pedestrian area or C5 02 City gate-Ezelpoort Vrije
Pottenmakersstraat D7 Sint-Gilliskoorstraat F6 West-Gistelhof E6
T area with limited
Potterierei G4 Sint-Godelievedreef J3 Westmeers C11
traffic G11 03 Bruggemuseum - B10 02 Exhibition centre
Ter Pannestraat E3
Predikherenrei H9 Sint-Jakobsplein* D7 Wevershof* D11 Gentpoort
Ter Lake G14
Predikherenstraat G8 Sint-Jakobsstraat D8 Wijnenburgstraat A3 Pedestrian/cyclist E9 03 College of Europe
Ter Looigemweg H1 E7 Genoese Lodge
Prinsenhof D8 Sint-Jan in de Meers C10 Wijngaardplein D11 tunnel 04
Timmermansstraat H8 (Saaihalle) I8 04 Courthouse
Prins Albertstraat J8 Sint-Jansdreef A8 Wijngaardstraat E11
Torenbrug* F6 No through traffic
Prof. Dr. J. Sebrechtsstr. D12 Sint-Jansplein F8 Wijnzakstraat F7
Torhoutse Steenweg* A10 D7 20 Bladelin Court D10 07 Meeting Event &
Sint-Jansstraat F7 Willemijnendreef G11
R Tornooistraat* B5 One-way-traffic Congress Centre
Sint-Jorisstraat E6 Witteleertouwersstraat G9
E9 22 Watervliet Court Oud Sint-Jan
Raamstraat D6 Tuiniersstraat J5
Sint-Jozefsplein H1 Woensdagmarkt F7
Two-way-traffic
Riddersstraat F8 Tuinstraat H14
Sint-Katarinastraat G14 Wollestraat E9 E7 24 House Ter beurze F9 12 City hall
Rijkepijndersstraat G6 Twijnstraat F8
Sint-Maartensbilk B10 Wulfhagestraat C8 Parking area
Rijselstraat A14
Sint-Maartensplein* F7
’t Zand C9
Wulpenstraat H3
H4 25 Bruggemuseum- B6 15 Swimming pool
Robijnstraat E7
Sint-Niklaasstraat E9
’t Zweerd* G9 Coach park Koelewei mill Jan Guilini
Rode-Haanstraat E7 Z
Sint-Obrechtsstraat C11
Rodestraat H7
V
Zakske D7
Camper van park J7 26 City Gate-
Sint-Pietersgroenestraat C1
Rolweg H6
Vaartstraat D2
Zandstraat* A10
Kruispoort
Sint-Pieterskaai C3
Van Arteveldestraat D1
Camper van overnight RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS
Rond den Heerdstraat B1 Zevensterrestraat C9
Sint-Pietersnoordstraat B1
Van Steenestraat I13
parking area D13 27 Gunpowder tower
Ronsaardbekestraat H1
Sint-Pieterszuidstraat C1
Zilverstraat D9 D11 01 Beguinage church
Van Voldenstraat B11
Roompotstraat B7
Sint-Salvatorskerkhof D10
Zonnekemeers D11 Railway station E7 28 Burghers’ Lodge
Ropeerdstraat G6
Veemarktstraat C2
Zuidervaartje J3 (State archives) D10 02 Episcopal Palace
Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat D9
Rozemarijnstraat* E8
Veldmaarschalk Fochstr. D4
Zuidzandstraat C9
Access road or
Sint-Walburgastraat F8
Veldstraat A14 entrance gates D8 29 Princes’ Court H6 03 English convent
Rozendal C6 Zeger Van Malestraat* A6
Slachthuisstraat B2
Venkelstraat H7
Rozenstraat H14
Sledestraat* D6
Zuider Boomgaard I14
Bus stop De Lijn E8 30 Deanery G4 04 Episcopal
Verbrand Nieuwland H8
Rozenhoedkaai F9
Sluisstraat F1
Zwaluwenstraat C3 seminary
Verversdijk G7
Rubenslaan H13
Smedenstraat B9
Zwarteleertouwersstraat G9 Boats E8 31 Provincial Palace
Rustenburgstraat A3
Vestingstraat F13
Zwijnstraat B9 F9 05 Basilica of the
Snaggaardstraat H6
Violierstraat G10 Horse-drawn cabs I6 32 Bruggemuseum- Holy Blood
Spaanse Loskaai E6
S Vismarkt F9 Sint-Janshuis
Sasplein H3
Spanjaardstraat E7
Visspaanstraat F12 Sightseeing Line mill G10 06 Church of the Holy
Schaarstraat G10
Speelmansrei C9
Vizierstraat H10
Magdalena
Speelmansstraat H6 Cash machines B9 33 City gate-
Scheepsdalelaan B4 Vlamingdam E5
Speelpleinlaan J10 Smedenpoort H7 07 Jerusalem church
Schottinnenstraat* F6 Vlamingstraat E8 Boudewijn Seapark
Spiegelrei F7
Schouwvegersstraat B8 Vrijdagmarkt C10 Brugge C8 34 Minstrels Guild’s E8 08 Saint Peter’s
Spinolarei F7
Schrijnwerkersstraat* F7 Vrijheidstraat G14
chapel chapel (Protestant
Spoorwegstraat B14 Almshouses
Schrijversstraat E6 Vuldersreitje I7 Church & English
Sportstraat J5
Schuttersstraat* D6 Vuldersstraat H8 F9 35 Fish market Church)
Stalijzerstraat G10 Meeting point guides
’s-Gravenstraat G3
Simon Stevinplein D9
Stationslaan A11 W E13 36 Barge bridge B10 09 Capuchin
Bike Rental
Stationsplein C13 Waalsestraat F9 monastery
Singel A10
Steenhouwersdijk F9 Wagnerstraat G12
F7 38 Old Toll house
Sint-Amandsstraat D8 Public toilet
Steenkaai A3
E9 10 Military chapel
Walplein E11
Sint-Annakerkstraat G7 B11 40 Dumery bell (Carthusian
Steenstraat D9 Walstraat E11 Information office
Sint-Annaplein* G7 chapel)
Sterstraat F6 Walweinstraat F3
Sint-Annarei G7
Stijn Streuvelsstraat I7 Wantestraat G14 (*not indicated on the map)
Sint-Brunostraat I8

138 139
C6 11 Oecuminical E11 12 Brewery I7 35 St George’s Arch- CITY CENTRE MAP
chapel ‘De Halve Maan’ ers Guild

D6 12 Discalced C10 13 Concertgebouw A11 36 Magdalena


Carmelites (concert hall) concert hall
A B C D E F G H I J

G4 Church of our Lady A9 14 De Bond G4 37 Our Lady


p.142/143
13
of the Pottery (cultural centre) of the Pottery- 1 1

Hospitaalmuseum
E10 14 Church of our Lady D7 16 Cinema Lumière
F8 38 Bruggemuseum-
D6 15 Orthodox chapel D4 17 De Werf City Hall
2 2

(Saint Helen and (cultural centre)


Constantine) E8 39 Bruggemuseum-
E11 18 Diamond museum Belfry p.44
3 3
G7 16 Saint Anne’s
church G1 19 Entrepôt F7 41 Choco-Story
(Youth and (chocolate
F6 17 Saint Giles’ Cultural Centre) museum) 4 4

church
E10 20 Groeninge C10 42 Forum+
B10 18 Saint Godelieve’s museum [Concertgebouw]
abbey 5 5

E10 21 Bruggemuseum - F7 43 Lumina


D7 19 Saint Jacob’s Gruuthuse Domestica
church 6 6
I6 22 Bruggemuseum - A14 44 Kinepolis Brugge p.34
D10 20 Saint Saviour’s Gezelle
cathedral E7 45 Belgian Fries p.144/145
D6 23 Joseph Rylandt museum 7
p.24 7

F7 21 Saint Walburgha’s Concert Hall


church E8 46 Dalí X-po Gallery
H7 24 Lace Centre
E7 23 Free Evangelical 8
MARKT
8

church E10 25 Memling in


Sint-Jan -
B9 23 Chapel of our Hospitaalmuseum
9 9
Lady of the Blind
H7 27 Bruggemuseum - P
1434
Centrum
't Zand

folklore
CULTURE - MUSEUMS D8 Organ hall (Music
10 10
29 Wheelchair friendly
Academy) approved by an
D10 01 Bruggemuseum -
Archeologie officially recognized
I6 31 St Sebastian’s accessibility bureau
11 11

Archers Guild
E10 02 Arentshuis
F8 32 City Archives -
D11 03 Beguine’s house 12 12
Bruggemuseum-
E8 04 Biekorf library Liberty of Bruges
CITY
CARD
Brugge City Card STATION
P
E8 06 Biekorf theatre E7 33 City theatre with free admission 13
1500
Centrum
Station
13
+ gratis

(cultural centre) (cultural centre) bus

CITY
CARD
Brugge City Card
E11 10 Bogarden chapel discounts N
14 14

10mm = 100m

A B C D E F G H I J

140
A B C D E F G H I J

GELEED
.
BLANKENBERGE DSTR KNOKKE(N376/N49)

SINT
ZEEBRUGGE OOR
RSN
IETE HEIST

-PIE
LISSEWEGE

PATHOEKEWEG
TR. ST.-P EE
L P DUDZELE

TER
(N371/N31) ST VAN ARTEVELDESTRAAT RAND PA
TES

NWEG
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A B C D E F G H I J
If you want to discover Bruges,
this is the guidebook you can’t do without!
• Three atmospheric walks past museums, monuments,
famous locations and quaint corners
• Fascinating interviews with well-known connoisseurs
of Bruges on the city’s World Heritage, the Flemish Primitives and
gastronomy, Bruges as a centre of culture and as a bike-friendly city
• An overview of all places of interest, museums and attractions,
including short descriptions and practical information
• Everything you need to know about the Brugge City Card discount pass
• Idyllic spots in the vicinity of Bruges, ideal to discover by bike
• An overview of the most important events in 2010,
with an extra supplement on the city festival Bruges Central
• A list of the most charming and attractive cafés, restaurants and shops

Information Offices More information


[Concertgebouw], ’t Zand Toerisme Brugge
Mon-Sun: 10.00 a.m.- 6.00 p.m. PO Box 744, B-8000 Brugge
T +32(0)50 44 46 46
Railway Station, Stationsplein F +32(0)50 44 46 45
Mon-Fri: 10.00 a.m.- 5.00 p.m. toerisme@brugge.be
Sat-Sun: 10.00 a.m.- 2.00 p.m. www.bruges.be/tourism

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