com/communist-architecture-
zagreb/?fbclid=IwAR24CbDIxwWKQ06kgd0NfE6hXa4yPYDmhfCH08L7wNg6tDk-LLjMWbDrXp8
Phillipa glides past a dead pigeon outside the communist architecture of the Zagreb
“Rockets”.
On the outside of the old town, there’s a lesser travelled area of these
cities. Here, are the many “new” Communist-era or Socialist-era planned
districts and suburbs. Built around the historic downtown cores, the often
populous areas are especially common in post-communist post-Soviet ex-
USSR, and the formerly socialist Yugoslavian nations.
Leaving the center of Zagreb, and crossing the Sava River to Novi
Zagreb, is like entering another world. A beautiful, dream-like, concrete-
filled world. Paradoxically familiar, normally unexplored, from the past and
yet from the future, I have found that places like Novi Zagreb create a
strange nostalgia for a world I have never known.
Richter’s “Rakete” or “Rockets”. Communist-era apartment blocks in Zagreb. Architect –
Richter.
Zagrepčanka. Zagreb, 1976. Architects Slavko Jelinek and Berislav Vinković.
“Kockica” or “Cube”. Zagreb, Croatia. Architect – Ivo Vitić, 1961-1968.
“Super Andrija” – communist era mixed-use apartment block in Zagreb, Croatia. Architect
– Miroslav Cantinellija, 1973
Novi Zagreb, like many of the planned mid-20th century European cities,
was built in the battle scarred shadow of the Second World War. Using
a familiar architectural blue print, most buildings can be categorised as
perfect evil-genius lair, amazing location for super villain head quarters, or
what would broadly and flatteringly be referred to as 1970’s communist
chic. Some buildings impress by design, others, by sheer immensity and
brutality.
Seemingly audacious planned cities like Novi Zagreb rejected what would
soon become known as un-environmental urban sprawl that most
Western cities were following. Think of Novi Zagreb as your typical
American suburbia, on steroids. The promised land in the style of the mid-
twentieth century style. Geometric, efficient, and admirably designed with
people in mind.
There are many aspects of cities like Novi Zagreb that demand further
exploration and explanation, and I hope that people with more expertise
than myself would leave relevant links in the comments below.
Super Andrija. Raw, honest, enormous. Zagreb, Croatia.
Richter’s Rockets – a spectacular example of mixed-use brutalist architecture in Zagreb.
Vjesnik, 1972. Zageb modernist architecture from the Communist era
A wider lens would have come in handy.
Billa supermarket, Zagreb.
Underpass infrastructure. Zagreb, Croatia.
Nate
* update, July 2018 : this week alone, more than 60,000 people have read
this article. Over the lifespan of this page, there are sure to be more than
one million views. One of the photos has now appeared in publication,
another has won me a prize. I truly love this architecture, and I’m glad to
know the popularity is finally increasing.