Dress Making
Dress making is like cooking, you may have your own
unique style of taking the measurements and may be quite
successful at it.
I have even seen some amazing people using their hands for taking measurements and go by
their guess work and still they get to be accurate with the size and get the dress right.
These different methods of taking measurements exist but unfortunately not all of us are that
God gifted and experienced to take accurate measurements with our sixth sense.
For people like us, there is a universal system of measurement, which is called metric system.
Metric system is an alternative system of measurement used in most countries.
While we go along with our projects on this site and on my youtube channel, we’ll be using
Metric measurements with imperial values in bracket to facilitate the change to metric system.
The values given in this system are not exact but nearly equal, e.g. 60 cm is equal to 23.5″ but
the value taken is 24″. In the same way 36″ = 91.5 cm, but here it is taken as 90 cm, in order to
make 1/2, 1/4, 1/6, 1/8,1/12 divisions easier.
I have added here conversion table for your ready reference to make things easier for you.
Next time, if you have any confusion and you are not clear about the method of conversion, you
may simply refer to this table and get along with your taking measurements and cutting with no
hassles.
Metric System:
The metric system is an internationally agreed decimal system of
measurement created in France in 1799. The International System of
Units (SI), the official system of measurement in almost every
country in the world, is based upon the metric system.
In the metric system, each basic type of measurement (length, weight, capacity) has
one basic unit of measure (meter, gram, liter). Conversions are quickly made by
multiplying or dividing by factors of 10. It is as simple as moving the decimal point to
the right (for smaller prefixes) or to the left (for larger prefixes).
To remember the proper decimal movement, arrange the prefixes from largest to
smallest:
English System:
While the metric system was lawfully accepted for use in the United States in 1866,
the US has not adopted the metric system as its "official" system of measurement. The
US English System of measurement grew out of the manner in which people secured
measurements using body parts and familiar objects. For example, shorter ground
distances were measured with the human foot and longer distances were measured by
paces, with one mile being 1,000 paces. Capacities were measured with household
items such as cups, pails (formerly called gallons) and baskets.
Conversion Ratio (or Unit Factor): While the Metric System simply moves
the decimal point to convert between its measurements' prefixes, the English System
requires a conversion ratio (or unit factor)to move between measurements. In the
Metric System, the prefix itself gives the needed conversion ratio.
A conversion ratio (or unit factor) is a ratio equal to one. This ratio carries the names
of the units to be used in the conversion. It can be used for conversions within the
English and Metric Systems, as well as for conversions between the systems. The
conversion ratio is based upon the concept of equivalent values. In the example
below, one foot is substituted for its equivalent measure of 12 inches.
Convert 16 tons to
pounds.
Set up the conversion ratio and solve for the
missing value. ANSWER: 32,000 pounds
NOTE: As with all mathematical problems, there are other ways to arrive at these
answers. Most other methods utilize the concept of the conversion ratio, but may be
written in a different manner or calculated mentally.
Taking Measurements
There is a proper way to take measurements to give the best fit when making a garment. You should keep an
accurate record of all your measurements, and check them each time you start to prepare a new pattern.
Be aware of manufacturer's sizes. Keep in mind that different manufacturers sizes are different. One retailers size 14
is anothers 16, and yet anothers 12. Knowing your size doesn't mean knowing your measurements. Keep track of
your own measurements. This is the whole idea of customization used in our patterns.
It is also important that you take your measurements accurately to be sure the garment will fit you.
Taking an accurate set of measurements is not difficult, but takes care. We suggest that you ask your relative or
Measurements should be taken over your usual undergarments. Do not pull the measuring tape snug too tight. Let
yourself breathe!
We strongly recommend you use the metric system. Metric measurements are more accurate and easier to use than
imperial. Regular measuring tape has both inches and centimeters on it.
Please round your metric measurements to whole numbers (e.g. 102 cm). Don't round measurements in
Basic measurements
Height: Stand straight (not too straight, just as usual) with your back, your head and your heels against
the wall. Ask a Measurer to mark a spot at the wall using a ruler that goes on top of your head
perpendicular to the wall. Measure the vertical distance from the floor to the mark.
Bust: Take this measurement over the fullest part of the bust and across the widest part of the back. The
Waist: To locate your waistline, tie a narrow string around the waist and let it settle into the natural
waistline as you bend to the left and to the right. Take the measurement along the stringline.
Hips: Take the measurement around the fullest part, which is usually 18cm (7") to 23cm (9") below the
waist.
Advanced measurements (in addition to all mentioned above)
Shoulder length: Measured from neck base to shoulder point. To locate neck base, circle tape
horizontally around your neck under thyroid. To find the shoulder point, raise the arm to shoulder level. A
dimple will form at the shoulder bone thats the shoulder point.
Waist height from floor: Distance from waist to the floor. Place a ruler or book between your waist and
the wall, make a mark on the wall. Measure height of the mark from the floor.
Front waist length: Measured from the prominent bone at back neck to the neck base point, over bust
point, and vertically down to waistline. (To find the back neck bone, bend the head forward so you can
feel the neck bone, or vertebra. For neck base point see Shoulder length measurement.).
Back waist length: From prominent bone at back neck down along the spine though a ruler of 1 width
put at the projecting scapulae points to the tape tied at waist line.
Measurements:
o Bust: Measure all the way around your bust and back on the line of your nipples.
o Chest: Measure directly under your breasts, as high up as possible.
o Waist: Measure at its narrowest point width-wise, usually just above the navel.
o Hips: Measure around the widest part of the hipbones.
o Midway: Measure midway between the widest part of your hips and your waist.
o Thighs: Measure around fullest part of upper leg while standing
o Knees: Measure immediately above the knee.
o Calves: Measure around fullest part.
o Upper arm: Measure above your elbows – around fullest part.
o Forearms: Measure below your elbows – around fullest part.
Re-measure yourself every couple of weeks and record you measurements, so that you
can chart your progress. This is a great motivator! It can be discouraging to see your
measurements at the start of the program, but once you begin to see results, the feeling
of accomplishment is incredible. Even if you have already commenced your program, it
is not too late to get measuring (body fat percentage or body measurements), as it is
wonderful and rewarding to watch your body continue to change. If you want, plug your
vital statistics into the body fat calculator to get an estimate of your body fat percentage.
Bust: Place the measuring tape across your nipples and measure around the largest
part of your chest. Be sure to keep the tape parallel to the floor.
Chest: Place the measuring tape just under your breasts/pecs and measure around the
torso while keeping the tape parallel to the floor.
Waist: Place the measuring tape about a 1/2 inch above your bellybutton (at the
narrowest part of your waist) to measure around your torso. When measuring your
waist, exhale and measure before inhaling again.
Hips: Place the measuring tape across the widest part of your hips/buttocks and
measure all the way around while keeping the tape parallel to the floor. You can use
your waist and hip measurements to calculate your Waist-to-Hip ratio, an assessment
that can help determine your health risk. Use SparkPeople's Waist-to-Hip Ratio
Calculator to determine your ratio.
Upper arm: Measure around the largest part of each arm (above the elbow).
Forearm: Measure around the largest part of each arm (below the elbow).
Don't let the scale get you down! Losing inches can be even more impactful than losing
pounds.
Ideally, you should be measured wearing only your undergarments. However, a leotard
or close-fitting clothing will be fine. Do NOT measure yourself wearing jeans,
sweats, or other bulky clothing. It DOES make a difference!
Because the body is made of soft tissue, it can be a bit difficult to know exactly how tight
to pull the tape around the body. The tape should be a bit snug, but not tight - it should
not "dig in" or make an indentation in the body. It should not be loose, either! Just
wrap the tape around the area of the body being measured and hold it in place. You
should be able to put a finger behind the tape, but no more than that.
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E - Front Waist Length - Start at the shoulder (right next to the base of the neck), and
measure to the waist, measuring over the fullest part of the bust.
F - Back Waist Length - Measure from the base of the neck (in the center, not the side),
to the center of the waistline.
G - Arm Length - Measure from the top of the arm (find the bone at the shoulder/top of
arm) to the wrist (find the bone at the side of the wrist), WITH THE ELBOW BENT. It's
important to keep the elbow bent to allow for movement when you make a sleeve.
See? It's not hard, and you don't need a lot of measurements to get started. You could
also measure from the waist to the knee and/or the ankle for skirt length, but I usually
just try on the garment at that point to decide where I want the hem.