1150 GS Timing Chain Runner Plastic

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1150 GS timing chain runner plastic

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by docgonzo, Sep 11, 2014.
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docgonzo, Sep 11, 2014
docgonzo
Old Gadfly
Found a piece of black plastic in the oil at oil change on my 2002 1150 GS with 110,000 miles on it. Had the tensioner replaced at
60,000 miles. Engine is running fine, but have heard a little "rattle" on deceleration lately.
Get it (the runner) replaced, or ignore? Again, bike is running great.
Note: the tensioner is pretty easy to tighten/replace. The runner requires the cylinder heads to come off.
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Steptoe, Sep 11, 2014
Steptoe
steptoe
docgonzo said: ↑
. The runner requires the cylinder heads to come off.
I think you'll find it's a bit more involved than just removing the cylinder heads..
But not as bad as the repair books will tell you. There is a simpler way.
docgonzo
Old Gadfly
Steptoe said: ↑
But not as bad as the repair books will tell you. There is a simpler way.
Can you share that with me here, or with PM?
L21, Sep 12, 2014 FREE ADVrider T-shirts! Become a site supporter for
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Been here awhile
Supporter
Look up Chris Harris on youtube, Bmw service-cam chain tensioner replacement.
docgonzo
Old Gadfly
L21 said: ↑
Thanks so much. I now know what is involved!
<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/SkPrIEzaAMs?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen>

</iframe>
def, Sep 12, 2014
def
Ginger th wonder dog
At early miles, my 2001 boxer burped up a small piece of black plastic during an oil drain. It was a piece of chain rail. Years later, I
had forgotten about it until you reminded me.
docgonzo
Old Gadfly
def said: ↑
At early miles, my 2001 boxer burped up a small piece of black plastic during an oil drain. It was a piece of chain rail. Years later, I had forgotten about it until you reminded
me.
Interesting. As I said, my bike is running fine, except for a tiny bit of noise on deceleration. My dealer, though, wouldn't let me drive
it home, indicating that the engine could seize.
I'm tempted to just ride it. Thoughts?

cantupshift, Sep 12, 2014
cantupshift
Been here awhile
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docgonzo said: ↑
Interesting. As I said, my bike is running fine, except for a tiny bit of noise on deceleration. My dealer, though, wouldn't let me drive it home, indicating that the engine
could seize.
I'm tempted to just ride it. Thoughts?
Is the fact that the cam chain rail might be coming apart going to hang in the back of your mind and distract you from riding?
Any idea by looking at the piece where it came from? i.e. can you tell if it's from where the tensioner contacts the rails?
Too tired to remember this morning if you can see anything by pulling the valve covers, but can you borrow a bore scope or
something equivalent to poke around in there? i.e. "how bad is bad?"
Also might be worth pulling both tensioners and looking at the point that contacts the chain rail. If it looks like it's being hit with a
grinder then your rail is gone and the tensioner is contacting the chain.
Might be worth looking through some of the other cam chain rail threads and pictures to see what you're looking for.
Did you pull apart the filter to see if there was any additional plastic / plastic bits in there?
docgonzo
Old Gadfly
cantupshift said: ↑
Too tired to remember this morning if you can see anything by pulling the valve covers, but can you borrow a bore scope or something equivalent to poke around in there?
i.e. "how bad is bad?"
The guys at the dealer pulled the left sided valve cover and looked inside from there. They said the lower rail guide was chewed up
pretty good.
cantupshift said: ↑
Might be worth looking through some of the other cam chain rail threads and pictures to see what you're looking for.
Did you pull apart the filter to see if there was any additional plastic / plastic bits in there?
I looked for cam chain rail threads, and didn't find any. Can you point me in the right direction? Also, there were only two little
pieces of black plastic, almost definitely from the rail guide.
As I said, the bike is running fine, and purring like a kitten. I rode it to work today, without earplugs, and it sounds as good as it did
12 years ago when I bought it new.
bdarling, Sep 12, 2014
bdarling
Weather Man
My 1100 is missing about an inch of the lower left guide rail tip due to an assembly error on my part, but the engine has been
running just fine for two years. I would agree with everything that's been said to this point, get a good look at the rail and decide if
the wear looks unusually bad, or just "sorta" bad.

Steptoe
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steptoe
L21 said: ↑

I don't think so........
docgonzo said: ↑
Thanks so much. I now know what is involved!
Nooooooo, there is a far easier and simpler method, which i have done on quite a few bikes, and they've covered tens of thousands
of miles with no problems... No major dismantling involved, you only need remove the heads and barrels.
docgonzo
Old Gadfly
Steptoe said: ↑
Nooooooo, there is a far easier and simpler method, which i have done on quite a few bikes, and they've covered tens of thousands of miles with no problems... No major
dismantling involved, you only need remove the heads and barrels.
But don't you have to take off the tranny and clutch to get to the pin that holds the lower cam chain rail in place?
Do you have some photos of your method? Can you describe it?
L21, Sep 13, 2014
L21
Been here awhile
Supporter
Originally Posted by Steptoe

Nooooooo, there is a far easier and simpler method, which i have done on quite a few bikes, and they've covered tens of thousands
of miles with no problems... No major dismantling involved, you only need remove the heads and barrels.
So lets see it.
Steptoe
steptoe
It's been described previously on adv rider and ukgser.
Tbone, Sep 13, 2014
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As I understand you grind a notch in the replacement rail mounting boss and pop it over the length of the bolt/pin with a hammer.
docgonzo
Old Gadfly
Tbone said: ↑
Any chance either of you folks could find a write-up of the repair? I love my Big Yellow Pig, and I don't want to send it off to
Hospice.
I've had the bike for 12 years (original owner) and it's been pretty wonderful for the 110,000 miles. Got me through 4 years of
commuting to Newark, NJ for night graduate school (one of the roughest cities in the US), over 400 tags, and commuting to work
through every winter (pumping out 700 watts of power for all the electrics!). In addition, with knobbies on it, I've done a few
"Adventures" in the woods with the bike.
It's never left me stranded. A few flat tires were easily plugged at the side of the road and the bike ridden home, thanks to the
tubeless spoked rims. Also, those rims have stood up to thousands of potholes riding around NYC.
Here it is playing in the mud a few years ago:
[IMG]
One of the best engineered bikes ever! Except for the plastic rail inside!
p.s., never had to oil the chain or change sprockets! Original final drive and clutch!!!
Pekkavee, Sep 13, 2014
Pekkavee
Been here awhile
Tbone said: ↑
With Steptoes words
"You file a tapered groove just smaller than the locating dowel into the mounting point of the chain guide, in the position where it
gets the least force when in place. Then snap it in place onto the locating pin/dowel.
Been done plenty of times by lots of different people and none have had any problems and have done some large mileages."
Like this

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You dont't have to take off the tranny and clutch to get to the pin. Because you change the rails this way.
Pekka
:eek1:eek1:eek1
Steptoe
steptoe
Pekkavee said: ↑
With Steptoes words

"You file a tapered groove just smaller than the locating dowel into the mounting point of the chain guide, in the position where it gets the least force when in place. Then
snap it in place onto the locating pin/dowel.
Been done plenty of times by lots of different people and none have had any problems and have done some large mileages."
Like this
Click to expand...
In one............... the hardest part of the job is removing the old guide from the pin/dowel. But with careful use of a sharp chisel and
take your time and you'll get there.
docgonzo
Old Gadfly
Steptoe said: ↑
In one............... the hardest part of the job is removing the old guide from the pin/dowel. But with careful use of a sharp chisel and take your time and you'll get there.
Seems to make sense, but how do you get the plastic chips out of the oil sump?

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