Dyeing
Chapter no. Name of Chapter Page
Chapter 1 Introduction of Dyeing……………………… 9
Chapter 2 Reactive Dye………………………………….. 14
Chapter 3 Disperse Dye…………………………………. 40
Chapter 4 Sulpher Dye…………………………………... 55
Chapter 5 Azoic Dye…………………………………….. 63
Printing
Chapter 1 Introduction of Printing……………………... 72
Chapter 2 Printing With Reactive Dye…………………. 84
Chapter 3 Printing With Disperse Dye………………… 94
Chapter 4 Printing With Azoic Colour………………… 100
Chapter 5 Pigment Printing……………………………... 112
Finishing
Chapter 1 Introduction Of Finishing…………………… 119
Chapter 2 Mercerisation…………………………………. 124
Chapter 3 Calendaring…………………………………... 143
Chapter 4 Raising………………………………………… 156
Chapter 5 Sanforizing……………………………………. 164
Chapter 6 Resin Finishing……………………………….. 168
Chapter 7 Flame Retardancy……………………………. 177
Chapter 8 Water Repellelcy …………………………….. 190
Previous Year Questions…………………….. 197
Dyeing Chapter 1
Introduction of Dyeing
Dyeing is a distribution process which is happened between textile mtls and dye solution in the
dye bath.
1. Raw Mtls :
3000 kg knitted goods (basically cellulosic)
Cellulosic fibres – Cotton
Protein fibres – Silk, Wool
Synthetic fibres – Polyester, nylon, acrylic fibres.
2. Dyes / Pigments :
Dyes – Water soluble
Water insoluble Mainly organic substance
Pigments - Water insoluble – May organic or inorganic
3. Chemicals :
Acids
Alkalis
Salts
Oxidising agents
Reducing agents
4. Auxiliaries :
Wetting agents
Leveling agent
Antifoaming agent
Anti creasing agent.
5. Dyeing m/C s :
Jigger dyeing m/c (Woven)
Winch dyeing m/c (knitted)
Jet dyeing m/c (Knitted Woven)
6. Dyeing parameters :
Temp (30-140c)
Time (30-60 min)
PH of dye bath (4-12)
M:L Ratio (As less as possible)
Pressure
Concentration of dye and chemical used.
7. Utilities :
Air, Electricity, Gas, Compressed air .
Colouring mtls
Pigments
Dyes
(Organic +
(Organic
Inorganic)
Chromogen
Chapter 2
Reactive Dye
Glucose unit
Each glucose unit contains one primary hydroxyl group (-CH2OW) and two secondary
hydroxyl groups (>OH)
Primary hydroxyl group (-CH2OH) at C6 position is more reactive than the secondary
hydroxyl groups at C2 and C3 position
C2 Hydroxyl group is supposed to be acidic than C3 hydroxyl group under suitable
alkaline condition and more reactive.
The hemiacetal group at C1 position is the most active.
The reaction betn reactive group and cellulose takes place predominantly with primary
hydroxyl group.
In case of monochloro triazinyl dyes, the reaction ratio of
-CH2OH & -CHOH is 15:1
i.e. C6:C2 or C3 = 15:1
In case of dichloro triazinyl dyes, the reaction Ratio of
-CH2OH & -CHOH 3:1 to 7:1
12. Secondary hydroxyl group is the least reactive while primary one is the most reactive
Classification of Reactive dyes:
1. On the Basis of Reactive group: Two types
I) Halogenated heteroycles
(a) Triazine group :
N Example: Procoin, Cibacron
N N Cl
C
N N
C C
D HN N Cl
Dichloroazine dyes
b Pyrimidine
Ex. Reactone
N
Cl
Cl C
N
C
D HN C C
Cl
N
Trichloro pyrimidine
c Quinoxaline
N
Ex. Levafix
N Cl
D OCHN C
C
N
Cl
N Cl
N N NH C C
N N
NaO3S C
(b) Dichloro:
N Cl
OH NH C C
NaO 3S N N
C
N N
SO3Na
C
Dye HN C Cl
N N
Cl
Reacton/Primoniro
2. Vinyl sulphone Dyes:
Dye. SO2 CH = CH2
3. Heterocyclic helogen containing Reactive dyes-
F
N
Dye HN
Cl
I) Drimarine K F
II) Levafix E:
N
Dye HN OC Cl
Cl
N
Dye HN H2CH2COC N Cl
O Cl
Drimarin K
Libafix EA
Cibacron-F
Libafix E
Remazol
Cibacron P
Procin H
Cibacron T
Dimaren 2
Low
High
Low
a)
Cl O Cell
N C N C
N C N C
Cl O Cell
Dichloro triazinyl
(b)
Cl OH
N C N C
N C N C
Cl OH
Dihydroxy group
The dyeing mechanism of material with reactive dye takes place in 3 stages:-
1. Exhaustion of dye in presence of electrolyte or dye absorption.
2. Fixation under the influence of alkali.
3. wash-off the unfixed dye from material surface.
Now they are mentioned below:
1. Dye absorption:
When fibre is immersed in dye liquor, an electrolyte is added to assist the exhaustion of
dye. Here NaCl is used as the electrolyte. This electrolyte neutralize the negative charge
formed in the fibre surface and puts extra energy to increase dye absorption. So when
the textile material is introduces to dye liquor the dye is exhausted on to the fibre.
2. Fixation:
Fixation of dye means the reaction of reactive group of dye with terminal –OH or-NH2
group of fibre and thus forming strong covalent bond with the fibre and thus forming
strong covalent bond with the fibre. This is an important phase, which is controlled by
maintaining proper pH by adding alkali. The alkali used for this purpose depends on
brand of dye and dyeing temperature. Here generally caustic soda, soda ash or NaHCO3
is used as alkali depending upon reactivity of dye. They create proper pH in dye bath
and do as the dye-fixing agent. The reaction takes place in this stage is shown below: -
Alkali
1. D-SO2-CH2-CH2-OSO3Na + OH-Cell D-SO2-CH2-CH2-O-Cell + NaHSO3
PH 10-12.5
alkali
2. D-SO2-CH2-CH2-OSO3Na + OH-Wool D-SO2-CH2-CH2-O-Wool + NaHSO3
pH10-12.5
3.
3. Wash-off:
As the dyeing is completed, a good wash must be applied to the material to remove extra
and unfixed dyes from material surface. This is necessary for level dyeing and good wash-
fastness. It is done by a series of hot wash, cold wash and soap solution wash.
Controlling Parameters/Factors:
I) PH
II) Temperature
III) Dyeing time.
IV) Liquor Ratio.
V) Concentration of electrolyte (salt)
20-30
300-
400C
Dro
5 10 Alk p
ali
Auxiliar Dye Sa
ies + + lt
H2O mater
ial.
Procedure:
According to dyeing curve at first auxiliaries and water are added in the dye bath. And it is
kept for 5 minute. Then material, dye is added respectively. Then after 10 minutes salt is added.
After adding salt dye bath is heated to 400-500C kept for 20-30 minutes. This is the exhaustion
period of dyeing. Then alkali is added in the dye bath. After adding alkali the dye bath is
heated for 40-60 minute at 50-600C. This is the fixation period.
After treatment:
1) 600C10 2) 950C10
Rinse Soaping
Acetic acid agent
= 1g/L = 1g/L
3) 700C10 4) R.T 10
1) After dyeing operation is completed the dye material is put into a bath containing 1%
stock solution of acetic acid. This operation is done for neutralizing the fabric. This
operation is performed at 600C for 10 minutes.
2) Secondly the material is treated with a 1g/L soap solution, which removes the unfixed
dye from fabric surface, and makes the surface clean.
3) Thirdly material is treated with a hot water bath.
4) Fourthly material is treated with a cold-water bath.
5) Finally the material is dried in a drier.
Sequence of Dyeing:
Grey textile mtls
Pre treatment
Dyeing
Washing (Cold)
Neutralization
Washing
Soaping
Washing (Cold)
Dye Fabric
0
Sequence :
Grey textile mtls
Pretreatment
Dyeing
Washing (Cold)
Washing (Hot)
Soaping (detergent)
Washing (Cold)
Application of Reactive Dyes:
Dyeing recipe: Anti creasing agent --> 0.3 g/L
Wetting agent --> 0.5 g/L
Sequestering agent --> 0.5 g/L
Reactive dyes --> 5% owf
Soda ash --> 5g/L
Caustic --> 1g/L
Salt (Common/glubers)--> 80g/L
M:L Ratio --> 1:8
Temp --> 60o-80oC
Time --> 60-90min.
1. Monochloro triazine dyes (MCT):
Example: Procion Red H-3B
or C.I Reactive Red 3
Dyeing Methods:
In this method, the milder alkali is used in the pad bath. In the pad batch method, the properly
prepared fabric is padded with the dye and alkali, passed betn, infra red heaters to pre heat the
padded fabric to 50 to 95oC and then batched on a large diameter roller in a heat chamber.
The batching is done under controlled conditions of temperature and humidity for a sufficient
time to ensure diffusion and fixation of the dye in the fibre. During this period, the batch is kept
slowly rotating to avoid seepage of the dye liquor. The cloth is then removed for washing.
Continuous Method:
I) Pad Steam Method:
In this process, the fabric is padded with the dye soln with 60o-80oC and then fabric is passed
through drying chamber. Then the fabric is padded with chemical (NaOH + Salt). Then the
fabric is passed through a steam chamr at 100o-102oC for 30-60 sec. Then fabric is washed in
open widbeth washer.
Stripping:
Stripping becomes necessary when uneven dyeing occurs. By stripping azo groups (-N=N-)
brom the dye is removed.
I) Partial stripping methods:
Partial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric with dilute acetic acid or formic acid.
The commanded conc. is betn 5 to 10 parts glacial aid or 2.5 –10 parts of formic acid per 1000
parts of water
Recipe: Glacial acetic acid = 5 – 10 parts
Water --> 1000 parts
OR
Formic acid --> 2.5 to 10 parts
Water --> 1000 parts
Temp --> 70-100oC
Time --> Until the desired shade is obtained.
Process- The goods are entered and temp is raise to 70-100oC and the treatment is continued
until the shade has been reduced to the desired amount thoroughly washing is then necessary
to remove the products of hydrolysis.
II) Full stripping:
For complete stripping, the goods are firstly treated with Na2S2O4 Sodium hydrosulphite at boil.
Then at room temperature for 30 min.
Chapter 3
Disperse Dye
Definition:
The term ‘disperse dyes’ have been applied to organic coloring substances, which are
free from ionizing groups are of low water solubility and are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic
textile mils from colloid dispersion.
It is a special class of dyestuff which is used for dyeing man-made fibres eg acetate, polyamide,
polyesters etc.
The dye is so called because it is non soluble, non ionic dye and molecularly dispersed, farther
dispersing agents are used with the dye. The size of the dye molecule is very small.
Two forms of this dyes
Dyes
Disperse dyes are added to water with a surface active agent to form an aqueous dispersion. The
insolubility of disperse dyes enables them to leave the dye liquor as they are more substantive to
the organic fibre than to the inorganic dye liquor. The application of heat to the dye liquor
increases the energy of dye molecules and accelerates the dyeing of textile fibres.
a) Dispersion of the dye into water by breaking up into molecules (Dissolution in water): The
dissolution depends on the disposability and solubility of the dyestuff further aided by the
presence of dispersing agents and Raise the temp.
b) Adsorption of the dissolved dye form the solution on to the fibre surface: The dye staff
adsorption by the fibre surface is influenced by the solubility of the dye in the dye bath and that
in the fibre.
c) Diffusion of the dye molecules from the fibre surface into the interior of the fibre substance
towards the center: The diffusion rate governs the overall rate of dyeing. When equilibrium
state is reached, the following subsidiary equilibrium are established-
i) Dye dispersion in the dye bath dye dissolved in the dye bath
ii) Dye dispersion in the dye bath dye absorbed on the fibre surface.
iii) Dye absorbed on the fibre surface dye diffused in the fibro
iv) dye diffused in the fibre dye diffused fibre to dye bath.
Chemical classification
1. Azo dyes :
i) Mono azo dyes-
NO2 N N NH2
N N N N OH
NH2 O NH2
C.I. Disperse blue
3. Other dye:
i) Aminoketone dyes
O NH
O N O CH 2
NO2 NH
Serisol Yellow-2G
Methods of application of disperse dyes: Dyeing of Polyester fabric with Disperse dyes.:
i) Method N Normal temperature dyeing (80-100C)
ii) Method NC Normal temp dyeing with carriers (80 – 100C)
Or carrier method.
iii) Method HT High temp dyeing (105 - 140C)
iv) Method T Thermosol method (180 - 200C)
v) Method pad Batch Semi continuous method.
vi) Pad steam method Continuous method.
Carrier Method: Recipe:
Dye x% owf
Carrier 1-4% owf
Dispersing agent 0.5-1%
SaH [(NH4)2So4] 1-2 g/L
(Wetting agent)
Acetic acid (PH 4.5- 5.5) 1-2g/L
M:L Ratio 1:10
Temp 100C
Time 1 hr.
Procedure:
i) Dye sol is prepared with cold water (1:10) & kept for 15 mins.
ii) Dye bath is set at 60C & carrier, dispersing agent and salts are mixed one by one.
iii) Material is added and kept for 15 mins without raising temp.
iv) The dye sol is added and pH is controlled with CH3COOH
v) The temp is raised up to 100C. Then dyeing is continued for required time 1 hr.
vi) The temp is lowered to 70C, then rinsed and reduction clearing if required.
Reduction clearing is done is case of medium and deep shade only to improve the wash
fastness-
Recipe-
Detergent : 1 g/L
Sodium Hydorsulphite : 2 g/L
Caustic Soda: 1-2 g/L
Time: 20-30 min
Tem: 70-80 C
100ºC 1 hr.
15’
60ºC
15 minutes
70ºC
Temp
Time
Procedure:
i) Dye sol is prepared by adding cold water 1:8 and kept for 15 mins.
ii) Dye bath is set at 60C and dispersing agent and salt are added.
iii) The mtl is treated for 15 mins without raising temp.
iv) The dye sol is added and PH is controlled with CH3COOH
v) The temperature of dye bath is raised up to 130C with 30 mins.
vi) Dyeing is continued at 130C for 1 hr.
vii) The dye bath is cooled as early as possible.
viii) The fabric is allowed hot rinsing.
ix) Reduction cleared if required as be fore.
x) The fabric is again rinsed and then dried.
130ºC 1 hr.
10-15 min
30’
60ºC
2ºC/min
15 minutes
70ºC
Temp 15 min
Time
Advantage of HT Method:
Dyeing time are frequently shorter
Higher temp require
No need of carrier
Maxm 98% dye fixation
Loss of dye is less
Light fastness and wet fastness is usually higher
Better exhausion and deeper dyeing can be produced.
Faster diffusion of the dye in the fibre at elevated temp.
Thermosol Method
Recipe: Dye x% owf
Thickener 20-40 g/L
Wetting agent 1-2 g/L
Acetic acid 1-1.5 g/L
(PH 4.5-5)
Time 2 hr.
Process sequence:
Padding of fabric in a padder
Drying (90-100C)
Curing/ Thermo fixing (180-220C)
Washing.
Mechanism of thermo sol Process: In thermosol process, dye is dissolved in fibre. But dye heat
is used instead of aqueous medium. Dye is deposited on fibre surface. When fibre is exposed at
dry heat temp (250C), then dye is directly dissolved in fibre. Complete penetration is occurred
at 60s.
Dyeing precedure:
i) The fabric is padded with the dye sol using above recipe.
ii) The fabric is dried at 100C depending on the dryer used.
If dryer temp is too high then solid shade will not be obtained.
iii) Fixation of dyes done at 203C for 60-90s depending on the type of fibre of the fabric, dye
and depth of shade.
iv) The unfixed dyes and chemicals are washed off by warm water.
v) Soap washing or reduction cleared if necessary as be fore
vi) Finally the fabric is washed and then dried.
Disadvantages:
i) Shade may be changed due to sublimation at high temp.
ii) Special M/C required.
iii) Loss of strength when time of treatment is prolonged.
iv) Costly due to this process requires special arrangement.
Dispersing agent: Dispersing agents are effective under the dyeing conditions and stable to
hard water, high temp and other dye assistants which help to maintain dispersion of dye
molecule in the dye bath. The actual dye is farmed as relatively large particles during the last
stages of its manufacture and in this form it is unsuitable for application on hydrophobic fibres.
If these big particles are used as such, they produce uneven and specky dyeings and their full
colour value is not realized.
Carrier: Carriers are dyeing assistants which alter the dispersing properties of the dyes and
physical characteristics of the fibre so that more of the dye can be transferred from the dye bath
to the fibre than in the absence of these assistants.
It is a are kind of organic compound that acts as a substantive swelling agents. In case of
hydrophobic fibre such as polyester fibre carrier is added to dye bath or print paste for increase
of dye take up.
Function of Carrier:
Mechanism of carrier action:
i) Carriers swell the fibre and ultimately cause relaxation.
ii) They make dye film on the surface of the fibre.
iii) Carrier transport the dye to the fibre by dye carrier association in dye bath.
iv) They increase solubility of dye.
v) Products containing hydropholic groups such as O-phenyl phenol, benzoic acid etc show
rapid diffusion rate in the polyester fibres.
vi) It increases swelling of fibre.
vii) Increase dye take up by covalent bond of fibre liquid.
viii) They may act as molecular lubricants.
ix) Carrier penetrates in side the fibre polymer chain and thereby reduce inter chain attraction
and dye molecules enters the polymer structure.
soln of Na-sulphide which acts as a reducing agent, breaking the sulpher linkage and
converting the molecules into simpler components which are soluble in water and substantive
towards cellulose.
Dye-S-S-Dye
Water insoluble sulpher dye molecule
Chemical structure:
One of the reactions which takes place when sulpher is heated with P-toluidire is the formation
of dehydrothio-toluidine:
The dehydrothio-toluidine can react with another molecule of toluidire a process which may be
repeated until quite a complex molecule of toluidire a process which may be repeated until
quite a complex molecule has been built up:
H 3C N
H3C N
C N
S C NH2
S
I)
H2N N
C N
C NH2
S S S
S
4. Oxidation: After dyeing, the reduced water soluble form of the dye is oxidized to fix the
dyestuff as its insoluble oxidized form.
Reduction
Dye.S-S.Dye + 2[H] Dye.SH + Dye.SH
Oxidation
2Dye.SH + [O] Dye.S-S.Dye
Typical recipe for oxidation.
Na-perborate 0.5-1 g/L OR 1.3 owf
Temp 40-500C
Time 20 min
5. After treatment: I) The dyed substance is soaped which makes the colour bright and
gives the permanent shade.
II) The light fastness of sulpher dyes, which is generally good, can be improved by after
treatment with certain metallic salt. Thus a treatment with CuSO4 and acetic acid in the
presence of sodium or potassium dichromate improves the light fastness. When the
dichromate is present, the washing fastness is slightly improved.
CuSO4 0.5-1% owf
Na/K-dichromoate 1-1.5 ”
Acetic acid 1-2% ”
Time 20-30 min
Temp 700C
Disadvantage / Defects of Sulpher dyes: Mainly two defects. which are common in sulpher
dyeing-
1. Bronziness OR dullness of shades
2. Tendering.
1. Brounziness of shades: It is a common defect found in sulpher dyed textile mtls.
Causes: I) Excessive delay betn lifting of the mtl out of the dye bath and washing off.
II) The presence of excessive dyestuff on the mtl.
III) Insufficient amount of sodium sulphide in the dye bath.
IV) Exposure of goods to air while dyeing.
V) Excessive heat.
Remedies:
I) Good washing and dilute solution of Na2S (1%) at 30oC OR
II) A treatment with boiling soap soln or a strong Na2S soln OR
III) A treatment with a solution containing 10% of saponified palm oil at 60oC.
2. Tendering: If sulpher dyed textile mtls are stored, tendering effect is seen on cellulose.
Causes: I) Gradual oxidation of sulpher to sulphuric acid on storage.
II) After treatment with copper salt causes rapid tendering.
III) Presence of ion as an impurity causes rapid tendering.
IV) The method of oxidation for the reconversion to insoluble form influence
tendering.
Remedies: I) Treatment of dyed mtl with a little sodium acetate so that H2So4 may be
converted in to harmless acetic acid.
II) Treatment of dyed mtl with
Chemistry of dyeing: Dyeing process of azoic dyes includes three main stages. They are-
I) Naphtholation
II) Diazotisation
III) Coupling.
I). Naphtholation: Naphthols are insoluble in water and converted into soluble form by treating
with alkali. The fabric is in pregnated with -naphthol and NaOH Soln and converted into -
Naphthol Na--Naphtholate.
OH + NaOH, 300 -400C ONa
+ H2 O
0
72 T W
II) Diazotisation: A base containing amino group reacts with sodium nitrite to a soln of the
hydro chloride of the base in the presence of excess of HCl at 0o-5oC.
NH3 NH3+Cl-
+ HCl
+ NaCl + H2O
00-50 C
DIAZONIUM SALT
In total,
III) Coupling: The impregnated mtl is treated in a bath containing diazonium soln to carry out
coupling and azoic colour is produced.
ONa N N Cl N N
COUPLING
+
+ NaCl
CONH
Naphthol AS
OH
H3C
CONH
Naphthol AS-D
CONH CH3
Naphthol AS-RL
CONH NO2
Naphthol AS-BS
After treatment:
After printing the printed fabric is dried at 100-1050 for 5-10 minute in a dryer
Printing Chapter 1
Introduction of Printing
Textile Printing:
Textile Printing is one kind of localized dyeing that is dyes or pigments are applied locally or
discontinuously to produce various design on the fabric with a motif or motives in one more
colours.
Or
By the term “Textile Printing” we mean the localized application of dyes or pigments and
chemicals by any method which can produce particular effect of colour on the fabric according
to the design.
Steps in Textile Printing :
Grey textiles / Raw mtls
1. Preparation of textile mtls ( singening, desizing , bleaching scouring)
2. Preparation of printing paste
3. Printing (with a certain style and method)
4. Drying of the printed fabric (in the drier)
5. Steaming of the printed fabric
(to transfer dye into fibre, 100-1020 C, 15 min in a steamer)
6. After treatment (Soaping of washing)
1. Natural 2. Artificial
a) Flowers Mental creation/ CAD
b) Leaves
c) Fruits
d) Natural Beauty
e) Animal (Men &
Women)
Cats
Dogs
Tigers
Birds etc.
5. Defoaming agents:
To prevent the foam generation during printing.
e.g. Silicone, defoamers, sulphated oil, perminol KB, Emulsified pine oil.
6. Oxidising and reducing agent:
Oxidising agent:
To develop the final colour during steaming or in the subsequent after treatment.
Assists to dye fixation.
e.g.: Sodium chlorate, Potasium chlorate, Sodium nitrate, Resist Salf Ammonium chloride,
Ludigol, Na or K dichromate
Reducing agent:
Used for reduction of different dyes.
Used for mainly in discharge printing.
To destroy colour from the ground of fabric.
To make the insoluble dyes to soluble
e.g. Sodium hydrosulphite, Stanus chloride etc. Rongolite-C
8. Acids/Alkalis:
To maintain PH
To develop the colour or printed fabric.
To fix dye on the fabric permanently.
e.g. Organic acid Alkali KOH, NaOH, Na2CO3, pottasium carbonate, sodium
bicarbonate, Sodium acetate.
9. Carrier and swelling agent: Swelling agent:
To create the big size holes of the fibres.
Helps to swell the fibre structure.
To reduce crystallinity.
Help the easy penetration of dye molecule inside the fibre polymer.
e.g. Polyethylene flycol, Phenols, DEGDA (di-ethylene glycol. diacetate)
Crrier:
Used for fixing disperso dyes on polyester or polyster wool blends at temp below 105oC.
Cl
OH Cl
OH Cl
White discharge
2. Discharge of printing.
Colour discharge
White resist
3. Resist style of printing.
Colour resist
Green
Green Green
Green Green
White Resist:
o No colour is added to the print paste sol with resist salt
o After dyeing the printed area remains white.
White Green
Red Red
White Resist Colour Resist
Colour resist :
Colouring mtl is added to the print past with resist salt
The printed area contain the colour added to print paste and the
remaining areas will contain the colour of dye sol.
Methods of Printing:
1. Block printing
2. Roller printing Hand screen
3. Screen printing
4. Rotary Screen Semi automatic
printing
5. Transfer printing Fully automatic
6. Burnout printing
7. Flock printing
8. Batik
9. Ink - jet
Chapter 2
Printing With Reactive Dye
D HN N
Cl
NHR
Procion H Cibacron ICI
N
D HN N
Cl
D HN N
Cl
N Cl
Cl
N
Cl
CH3
Procion SP Cl ICI
N
D HN N
Cl
Drimarene R, N Sandoz
F
D HN
Drimarene K
N
Cl
i) Na-alginate to thicker is used for printing with reactive dyes Na-alginate show improved
flow properties and gives depth, Sharpness and levelness of the printing, in roller printing.
ii) In screen printing it is essential to use emulsion thickenings when overlapping designs are
being printed, since Na-alginate does not give sufficiently sharp outlines.
iii) Half emulsion (Mixture of Na-alginate emulsion) is suitable for reactive dye printing.
1. Steaming process:
Pad with alkali Dry Steam Wash off Dry
Printing without
alkali on alkali
padded cloth
Hang in Wash
OR
off Dry air
Print with alkali on
unprepared cloth
Recipe:
The printing paste is prepared as
1) Urea 50-150 gm
2) Water (heated to 70º C) 420-245g
3) Procion dyes 10-80gm
4) Na-alginate (5%) 500 gm
5) Resist salt L/ Ludigol 10 gm
6) Sodium bicarbonate 10 to 15 gm
1000 gm/1 kg
After printing, dyes my be fixed by heating at 1000 Cfor 3’ and a curing time of about 5´ at 1400-
1600c
PrintingDrying curing washing of Dry.
After printing the printed fabrics is dried and the fabrics is padded with 20g/l sodium bi
carbonate in the presence of Na-alginate. The fabric is dried on steam heated cylinders. Finally
the fabrics is rinsed, soaped.
While preparing the printing paste the dye is first mixed with urea, hot water is then
added and stirred till dissolution is complete.
The dye solution is then mixed with the Na-alginate thickening and resist salt (Ludigol)
In the solution, NaOH and potassium carbonate solution is added and printing paste is
prepared.
Style of printing: Direct
Method of printing: Black, Roller, Screen.
After printing the fabrics carried out
Dried 1400 c-1600c
Steaming at 100-1020c for 1-2’
High pressure steaming at 1300c for 30sec-or
Thermo fixation at 1500c for 1’
1 kg
In this stage, the printing paste is prepared with dye and thickener (Na-alginate and CMC) and
then water is added and stirring gently. Then printing paste is used for printing the fabric.
After padding, the dye is fixing by steaming at about 1200c for 30-60s without intermediate
drying.
Finally the prints are soaped, washed and dried.
Process sequence:
Pretreatment Printing Dry Padding Steamingwash
Disadvantage:
Complex to prepare printing paste
Print is affected by stemming irregulation.
1. Short steaming method: after printing and drying the cloth is steamed for 1 to 2 min at 102 to
1030c washed and dried.
2. Thermo fixation Method: In this method, the printed and dried cloth is thermo fixed at 1800c-
1400c for 30 – 60s following by washing and drying.
3. High temperature steaming: The printed and dried cloth is steamed in a high temperature
steamer at 1300c for 30 soc at atmospheric pressure in a supper heated steam followed by
washing and drying.
Chapter 3
Printing With Disperse Dye
The characteristics of dispose dyes to be considered during selection of dyes for printing:
i) Selected dyes with good steaming and thermo fixing fastness are suitable.
ii) The washing fastness of dispose dyes on polyester are much higher than on acetate,
triacetate or nylon.
iii) Disperse dyes have a high degree of dispersibility so that they can be easily
dispersed in water at 110 to 1200 F
iv) Many disperse dyes are available in liquid from which makes it possible add them
to a stock thickening without predisposing
Reason of selection:
i. Natural gum: with natural thickeners sharp prints are attained and the dried
thickener film is relatively elastic.
ii. Starch ethers: Their wash off properties is not good and therefore starch
others are mixed with locust bean gum, which produces dull prints with poor
colour yield when used alone.
iii. Locust bean gum: Most commonly used thickness they produces
sharp/bright prints.
iv. Guan gum: They product depth sharpness and levelness of the points.
v. CMC : Prints with CMC are normally level and sharp and have good yield,
clarity and Brightness.
vi. British gum: Produce sharp prints, paste become durable, prolonged lasting
easily washable.
vii. Starch: No reaction with alkali increase levelness and penetration of the dye,
the flow properly improved.
viii. Na-alginate : It imparts the brightness of the print especially in the theromsol
process
ix. Emulsion Thickener: These are helpful since the mineral spirits are excellence
wetting agent for hydrophobic fibres. These thickenings increase levelness
and penetration of the dye in the fibre.
So combination of thickener should be used.
Function of ingredients:
Sodium chlorate Oxidizing. It protects the brightness of the off against any possible
reduction of the dyestuff under the prolonged steaming conditions at elevated temp.
Ammonium sulphate Used as on acid liborating agent so that the print paste remains acidic
(PH=5) during steaming.
Ekaline E1 is the carrier used to improve the colour field.
Fixation: After printing and dyeing the fabric may be steamed for 30min at 25 PSI (1250 to 1300
c)
(I) Hot air fixation : Hot air fixation may be carried out as follows:-
1800-1900 c for 1 min (formm E dyes)
190-2000 c (form SE dyes)
2050-2100C for 1 min (Form S dyes)
After fixation the fabric is rinsed with warm water and reduction clared in a both containing.
2 g Ekaline F1 liquid
2 g sodium hydro sulphite
2 g sodium hy droxide
1L
at 600 c for 20 min and washed with hot water and finally with cold water.
CONH
CONH
Napthol AsInsoluble
Na-Naptholate (soluble)
H2CO3(H2O + CO2
OH
CONH
Napthol AsInsoluble
This change may also take place on the naphthalated cloth. The free naphthol has less affinity
for cellulose fibres and has lower coupling power compared to the naphtholate form.
When the diazotised base couples with it subsequently the azoic pigment formed is not firmly
held in the fibre and as a result, the rubbing fastness of the print is lowered.
In order to avoid three problems, the naphtholated cloth (after drying) has to be printed with a
thickened soln of a diazotised base as early as possible. Formaldehyde maybe added and as a
result methlylol compound is formed which is more difficult to hydrolyse than the naphtholate.
CH2OH
ONa
ONa
HCHO
CONH
CONH
With the concentrated sols of naphthols the reaction requires 5-30 min for completion. At high
temperatures (80-90C) the methylol compounds are converted into methylene compounds with
the blocking of the coupling position at which the diazotised base couples otherwise. This
results in the loss of coupling power of the naphtholate.
CH 2 OH +
OC ONa O Na CO
NH NH
CH 2
OC ONa O Na CO
NH NH
Because of high degree of brightness, ease of application and excellent fastness properties
(except rubbing) azoic combinations (naphthols and bases) are widely used in printing on
cellulosic fibre fabrics.
Azoic colours are applied by the direct printed style by four methods-
This method does not need steaming for fixing the colour but the ground naphthol (uncoupled)
has to be washed off.
This method does not need steaming for fixing the colour but the ground naphthol has to be
washed off.
Padding:
The cloth is first naphtholated (Padded with naphtholated solution )
Prepared as follows:
13 g Naphthol As
15 ml TRO
22.5 ml Sodium Hydroxide (70o Tw)
Printing Procedure:
Starch + Sodium + Water
Fast + Sodium + Conc. HCl
Acetic acid + water
After treatment :
After printing and drying and standing for some time to complete the coupling reaction. Then
the cloth is soaped with detergent and soda ash at the boil . Subsequently it is treated with 10%
sodium bisulphate (670 Tw) soln to remove the unreacted naphthol from the ground. Finally the
cloth is soaped, washed and dried.
Process Principle:
Printing a thickered sol of sodium Naphtholate on undyed cloth
Drying
Treating with a soln of diazotised base or fast colour salt.
Printing recipe:
The printing paste may be prepared as follows:
15-20 gm Naphthol As
30 g TRO
50g Methylated spirit
25g Sodium hydroxide (700 Tw)
375 g Water
500g Starch Tragacanth paste
----------
1kg
After printing the cloth is passed through a suitably diazotised fast Base containing common
salt and a diazo stabliser and after giving sufficient time to complete the coupling reaction , it is
rinsed, treated with sodium bisulphate sol rinsed, soaped , washed and dried.
After printing the cloth is dried and steamed for 5 min at 100-102 c and immediately treated at
the boil for 4 to 5 min in an alkaline sol (Soda ash 105 9/L) to remove the decomposition
(reduction) products of the pigments and residual thickener film and the thickener it self.
After Printing, the cloth is dried and steamed for 5 min in a rapid ager at 1000 to 1020 C and
rinsed, oxidized with sodium per borate/acetic acid or potassium dichromate / acetic acid. It is
then rinsed, soaped, at the boil, washed and dried.
Chapter 5
Pigment Printing
Pigment are insoluble colouring matter mostly mineral origin have been used for the
colouration of metal wood, stone, and textile material.
1. Quinanridone:
Characteristics: These give yellow to violet pigments by chelation with different metals, Mn
and Ni chelates have better light fastness.
2. Dioxazine:
Yellow, red, orange, violate, and blue pigments can be obtained from these acromatic
sulphuric acids dispersant is used to brightness color.
3. Perilane perinone:
These provided red to blue pigments including clear red and prange colour. The light
fastness of these pigments is excellent.
4. Fluorubine:
Grenish yellow pigments with very good all round fastness properties and useful for dope
dyeing.
5. Pyrrocoline:
Dryer
Curing
(Cotton 140-160ºC/110-120ºC 3 – 5 min)
(Polyester 160 - 220ºC 30 – 60s)
Process:
Finishing:
In general, before marketing, all the process which are applied on the fabric after knitting or
weaving is called finishing. In broad sense, the term finishing covers all the processes which the
fabric undergoes after leaving the loom or knitting m/c to the stage at which enters the market.
Process Sequence:
Drying
Calendering / Compacting or Sanforzing
Packing
Delivery to market
In short sense, finishing is the process by which the fibres, yarns, fabrics are made as
presentable to the customer and these process are implemented after coloration.
Classification of Finishing:
Finishing
Temporary Temporary
Permanent Permanent
e.g. Calendering e.g. Starching
e.g. Raising e.g Mercerising
Embossing Weighting
Sanforizing Resin finishing etc.
Beetting etc Softening
The finishing process which is per formed by m/cs but not using of chemicals is called
finishing.
Chemical finishing:
The finishing process which is performed by application of chemicals which reacts with fibres is
termed as chemical finishing.
Temporary Finishing:
The finishing process by deposition of different materials on the fabric where the finishing
materials may be removed by easy washing or clearing is called temporary finishing.
This finishing is only achieved on the surface of the mtls.
The cellulose of the wall swells inwards until the lumen is practically eliminated. These charges
are shown in the following figure:
When the fibre is transferred to water and well washed. Shrinkage begins (stage 6) and on
drying at room temp a further and final shrinkage occurs (Stage 7). During the last three
shrinkage proceeds uniformly towards the centre and the lumen does not recover its original
size.
(a) Higher strength is obtained after the process sequence due to:
Molecular orientation increase.
Length wise shrinkage of fabric occurs which minimize the weak links in the
fibre.
4. Tension:
I) Mercerisation without tension gives no lustre and causes a considerable shrinkage.
II) Maximum lustre is obtained when the tension is just sufficient to bring the material
back to its original dimension.
III) Further increment of tension causes-
No benefit
May be harmful
Fabric damage
Cellulose-I (natural formation) can not convert fully into cellulose-II (after
mercerisation formation)
IV) Dyeing properties increase as mercerisation carried out under decreasing tension.
V) Impregnation is carried out at relayed condition but washing carried out under
tension.
VI) The tenacity and elastic modulus increase significantly when the mercerizing
tension increase.
VII) Extension at break decrease when tension increase.
5. Washing thoroughly:
I) Washing under stretched condition after mercerisation is very important.
II) In commercial mercerisation process, the strong NaOH is washed out of cotton by
hot water.
III) After washing, caustic soda concentration in the fabric must be less than 8%,
otherwise shrinkage occurs if tension is reduced.
IV) 0.1-0.5% HCl may be used to neautralised caustic soda.
6. Wetting agent: A wetting agent is included in the merceriging liquor which reduces
mercerisation time as a result of successful, uniform and rapid penetration of NaOH.
Commonly 0.5-1% of wetting agent is used.
For grey fabric, this amount may be 2%.
Incase of Scoured and bleached fabric, wetting agent not important but using 0.1-
0.5% gives better effect.
Cost of wetting agent should be considered before using.
In Industry, wetting agent is referred as mercering oil.
b) Restricted swelling (by treating the cotton under tension with strong sodium hydroxide soln
without allowing it to shrink and then washing while still in the stretched condition)
Mercerising Process:
Mercerising
process
Fabric/Cloth
Yarn mercerising
mercerising
Mercerizing
Hank form Continuous yarn Grey fabric
after scouring,
(Generally) mercerising mercerising
bleaching
Process sequence:
I) The yarn of hank form is placed on the guide rollers whilst they are close together.
II) The yarn is then impregnated in the trough containing caustic soda solution.
III) Impregnation is maintained upto half of the squeezing rollers.
IV) The yarn rotates in the alkali soln and stretched by guide rollers and at the same time
squeezing rollers press on the yarn to ensure penetration.
V) Impregnation time approximately 3 mins and then alloy tray is covered.
VI) The yarns are washed by means of spraying unit and squeezed. The first washing is
with hot water and then with cold water.
VII) The washed yarn is treated with 0.002% H2SO4 to remove alkali.
VIII) The stretching is carried out not to exceed an elongation of 3-5% with reference to
initial length.
IX) Finally the rollers are brought close together to facilitate the removal of stretched
yarn.
Precaution:
I) The yarn must be mounted evenly on the rollers.
II) The temp of alkali will be below 15oC
III) Tension variation must be reduced.
Process sequence:
I) The warps first pass through 2-4 boxes, where they are boiled in a suitable solution
of dilute caustic soda and T.R. oil. sequestering agent may be used.
II) The liquor is usually heated by closed steam coils.
III) The warps then passed through 1-2 boxes, containing cold water for cooling and
rinsing.
IV) Then warps are squeezed and pass through 3-4 boxes containing caustic soda
solution of mercesising strength.
V) Mercerisation time 3-5 mins.
VI) Penetration is assisted by the rubber coated rollers which speed determines the
amount of tension on the yarn.
VII) Then 3-0 boxes are used for washing
In 2-4 boxes, hot washed at 60oC temp
Last 2 boxes are used for cold wash.
VIII) Small quantity of acid is used for neutralisation.
M/C description:
I) A high speed pad-chain Mercerising M/C capable of handling fabrics like poplin
and at the same time producing a high degree of lusture.
II) M/C Comprises two power full 3-bowl mangles followed by a heavy pattern clip
stentering M/C fitted with washing and caustic recovery arrangements and souring
and washing cisterns.
III) The mangles are of open type, enabling the bowls to be easily changed.
IV) Each mangle is arranged to provide either a single or double immersion in the
caustic liquor and two squeezes.
Process sequence:
I) The scoured and bleached cotton fabric is passed through a padding mangle
containing 55o-65o Tw the NaOH soln at 18oC for 2-3 min with tension.
II) Then padded fabric is squeezed with squeezing Roller.
III) Then fabric is washed with hot water at 70oC in proper tension.
IV) Then the fabric is washed with cold water in two times.
V) The washed fabric is washed with 1oTw H2SO4 for removing of the remain caustic
soda.
VI) Then the fabric is dried washing in cold water.
Grey Mercerisation:
If mercerisation of mt/(Yarn/fabric) is carried out in grey state i.e. without scouring and
bleaching after desizing it is called grey mercerisation.
In grey mercerisation, a large amount of impurities find their way in the mercerising liquor.
The causes for carrying out grey mercersiation are-
I) It is observed that a softer handle is obtained on goods which are mercerised in grey
state compared with mercerised after bleaching. So for obtaining softer handle
mercerisation is done.
II) If maxm tensile strength is to be maintained, it is saber to mercerise before bleaching
i.e. in grey state.
III) Only some chemicals are required for mercerising.
IV) The process is easy.
If mercerisation occurs, the BAN will be more than 100 (Usually this no is 116-130).
If BAN is less than 116, the degree of mercerisation is not acceptable and it will result in uneven
dyeing.
And if BAN is 127 or more it indicates that very high degree or mercerisation has been
occurred.
Mercerisation of cotton:
Cotton fibre is a long chain polymer of glucose residue.
Two glucose units are considered to give the monomer of cotton. When cotton is treated with
caustic soda soln, soda soln, is formed which causes swelling of fibres.
The primary and secondary alcohols in the cellulose are acidic in nature. These hydroxy groups
form the basis for the high hydrogen bonding and orientation found in the fibres.
The hydroxy groups independently dissociate to the extent of alkali sorption. As a result there
is an osmotic pressure increases which causes water to enter the fibre until such time as the
osmotic pressure is in balance.
Chapter 3
Calendaring
Calendaring:
After a grey fabric is subjected to scouring, bleaching, mercerizing etc. It is finally dried to retain
its true shape and dimensions. But in this state the fabric becomes least lustrous. Because, for
those operations the threads in fabric become wavy and crimped. But if a fabric is to appear
highly lustrous then its surface should be perfectly flat and fibres appeared on the surface
should be parallel to each other and all should lie in the length direction.
To fulfill this object cotton, linen, rayon, silk materials are applied a temporary physical finish
which is known as calendaring. In this process fabric is passed through a series of healed rollers
under pressure in open width form.
Objects of calendaring:
The main objects or purpose of calendaring process are mentioned below:-
1. To cause a closing together of the threads of the fabric by flattening them and thus
tending to fill up the interstices between warp and weft.
2. To produce a smooth, glossy and highly lustrous appearance on the surface of the cloth.
3. To reduce fabric thickness.
4. To reduce air permeability and water permeability of fabric by changing its porosity.
2. High temperature:
Temperature is applied on metallic bowls. These bowls are generally hollow. They are
heated
i) By steam (most common, most economical, conventional, mostly used in the
industry)
ii) By thermo oil (also conventional, but not popular as steam)
iii) By electricity (specialized used)
iv) By gas
3. Suitable dampness:
Suitable degree of dampness is created by passing fabric through brush or roller damping
machine. But now-a-days in calendaring machines, in the entry zone there remains a
damping zone which creates dampness on fabric.
4. Bowl arrangement:
In industrial calendaring machines, there are 2-11 no of bowls. But commonly the no. of
bowl is 3, 5 or 7. Sometimes in jute mills 9 or 11 bowl calendering machines are found.
5. Bowl material:
Bowls are made of cast iron and compressed materials like synthetic rubber, paper, cotton
etc. The compressed material is as hard as iron and. The metallic bowls has a polished
surface. Now-a-days synthetic rubber coated bowls are used.
6. Bowl placing:
Both closed or open frames may be used as supports for the bowls. In general the metallic
bowls are never placed in contact with each other. Between two metallic bowls a
compressed material coated bowl is placed. This is done to prevent shearing action.
Damping:
To prepare the cloth for finishing operations, conditioning machine is useful in restoring the
moisture content of the goods before making up and hence improving the handle and
appearance. Damping can be done in 3 ways:-
1. By brush damping machine.
2. By spray damping machine.
3. By steam.
Regulating points:
Some regulating points in brush damping machine are:-
i) Adjusting the level of water in the through by a over flow pipe.
ii) Adjusting the opening of the top of the box by using hinged lid. For heavy
fabric the lid should more open and for fine fabric less open.
iii) Adjusting the speed of brush roller.
iv) Adjusting the speed of fabric passing.
Advantages:-
i) Machine construction is simple.
ii) Damping process is easy.
iii) Damping can be regulated (more/less damping) easily.
iv) Not require highly skilled labors.
Disadvantages:
i) Water droplet size is big, so damping may not be uniform.
ii) The machine requires more space.
iii) High labor cost.
iv) Over damping may occur if the m/c is not stopped frequently.
v) As the regulating systems are manual so it is not easy to operate uniformly.
Regulating points:
i) Adjustable hinged lid is fixed inside the wooden box which permits the
amount of damping.
ii) The automatic device is provided to stop spraying immediately when the
m/c stops.
iii) Material speed is controlled.
Advantages:
i) Very fine droplet can be sprayed on the cloth.
ii) Uniform damping is possible.
iii) No risk of over damping in case of m/c stoppage.
iv) M/C construction is simple.
v) No need of skilled labor.
Disadvantages:
i) More floor space is required.
ii) More electricity is required to run the machine.
iii) More labor cost.
Damping by steam:
This is not a separate damping m/c. In this method fabric passed between two perforated steam
pipes which are placed in the entry zone of the calendaring m/c.
Advantages:
i) Regulating can be done by regulating valve.
ii) Process of damping is more uniform.
iii) Not require more space.
iv) Loss of electricity can be reduced.
v) Labor cost can be reduced.
vi) No risk of over damping.
vii) Less costly process.
viii) Quick process of damping.
1. Swizzing finish:
Swizzing finishes are obtained by passing suitably conditioned cloth through the nips of the
calendar. The features are mentioned below:
1. Generally, the calender consists of 5 bowls. Where metallic and compressed material
coated bowls are placed alternatively.
2. The surface speed of all the bowls are same. Again dia of all bowls are same.
3. The bowls are placed in strong iron frames.
4. The metal bowls are heated by gas or steam.
5. The metal bowls are geared together but compressed material coated bowls rotates in
surface contact of metallic bowls.
6. The cloth is taken from a batch and passed through a tension rail. Then the fabric is
passed from the bottom of the last bowl to the first nip of the calendar.
7. A smooth appearance is obtained according to number and composition of bowls.
Advantages:
i) Smooth fabric surface can be obtained.
ii) Very high glossy fabric is obtained.
iii) There is no risk of displacing of fabric.
iv) Remove wrinkles and creases from fabric.
v) Uniform calendering is obtained.
Friction calendaring:
Friction calendaring fives a higher gloss and greater closing of the yarns.
i) It is produced by bringing the cloth into contact with a heated, polished and chilled-
iron bowl.
ii) The bowl rotates at a higher/faster speed than the cloth itself.
iii) 3-bowls heavy friction calendars are suitable for friction calendaring effect.
iv) The bottom bowl is made of closed-grained cast iron, the middle bowl of cotton and
the top bowl of highly polished chilled iron.
v) The middle bowl is greater in diameter than the others to allow for wear.
vi) The surface speed of metallic top bowl is higher in 1.5-2 times than that of lower
bowls which is obtained by spur-wheel arrangement.
vii) The cloth is passed into the bottom hip and round the middle bowl which revolves
in same surface speed as the bottom bowl.
viii) The top bowl has higher surface speed which produces friction effect by polishing.
Advantages:
i) Produces more smooth, glossy and higher lustrous appearance of fabric
surface.
ii) Fabric thickness can be reduced.
iii) Suitable for the finishing of highly glazed linings, prints etc.
iv) Remove creases and wrinkles from fabric surface.
Chasting finish:
Chesting or chasing finishes are obtained with all the bowls running at the same surface speed.
The cloth is passed through the nips of the calender, over external rollers and back into the
bottom nip of the calender again. In this way the cloth may be passed through the calender
several times, one layer of the cloth over another in multiple fashion.
i) The chesting calendar is made of 5 bowls and is mainly used for linen
finishes.
ii) A popular arrangement of the bowls, passing from bottom to top is cast iron,
cotton iron, heated iron, cotton and iron.
iii) The pressure on bowl is applied by long horizontal levers acting on top bowl
in addition to the weight of the bowls.
Advantages:
i) Chesting calendaring produce the effect of rounding the yarns to give a
‘thready’ or ‘linen’ appearance.
ii) Produce a soft handle fabric.
iii) Give a slight amount of water marking.
iv) Remove the wrinkles and creases of fabric.
Embossing calendering:
It is a special type of calendaring machine.
i) Embossing calendars are generally made of 2 or 3 bowls. These bowls are
engraved.
ii) In a three-bowl machine the engraved metal bowl is generally mounted on a
steel mandrel which is placed between two cotton or paper bowls.
iii) The diameter of these compressed material bowls are about 3 times greater
than the metal bowl.
iv) Speed of all bowls are same.
v) The temperature of the bowls can be increased either by gas or by steam.
vi) Fabric passes under the compressed material bowl then over the metal bowl.
Advantages:
i) Crepes or ‘Pebble’ effect may produced.
ii) Temporary and permanent effect may produced by different setting of
pressure and heat.
iii) Due to smaller metallic bowl cost is less.
iv) Generally used for synthetic fabrics. It can not create any effect on cotton
fabric.
Chapter 4
Raising
Raising:
Raising is a permanent mechanical finishing process of lifting a layer of fibres from the body of
the fabric which stand out from the surface. Raising may be done either in wet stage (for
woolen) or dry stage (for cotton). For example,
i) Funnel fabric (woven raised fabric)
ii) Fleece fabric (knitted raised fabric)
Raising causes a ‘Lofty’ handle effect on fabric.
Objects of raising:
The objects of raising are mentioned below:
i) To obtain a lofty handle effect in fabric.
ii) To obtain fleecy appearance.
iii) To create pile or cover on fabric surface.
iv) To produce a heavier surface made of fibres.
v) It is used to develop some structural features.
vi) To produce warm cloth as well as a soft one.
Advantages:
i) Used for raising woolen fabric.
ii) Rising may be carried out both in dry and wet condition.
iii) Raising take place very gradually.
iv) A more spongy effect is produced.
v) Both side of fabric can raised at same time by using two-cylinder raising m/c.
vi) The teasel-raising gig imparts a brushing and polishing action- double acting
raising m/c.
Disadvantages:
i) Raising speed is slow.
ii) Raising action is mild.
iii) It is not an industrial machine.
iv) It is not found in our country.
1. To clear out the random length fibres & produce a uniform & level pile.
2. To reduce the height of the wild fibres & prevent pilling.
3. To produce a certain band.
4. To improve the colour & appearance of the fabric.
5. To reduce sculptured effects.
Chapter 5 Sanforizing
Sanforizing:
Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage process, which is applied on woven fabric to
achieve shrinkage before making the garments. After sanforizing the residual shrinkage of
woven fabric may be zero. In sanforrizing process shrinkage is achieve by passing the cotton
fabric onto a movable elastic felt blanket is released it assumes a shortened conditional. Thus
the cotton fabric is forced to conform this compression.
Residual shrinkage:
Residual shrinkage is the latent shrinkage of a fibre, filament, yarn or fabric.
In woven fabrics, the yarns of warp and weft bend round one another of which warp yarns
bend round the weft yarn to a greater extent. When the cloth is wetted, the yarns increase in
diameter and if the crossing weft threads were to remain the same distance apart, as in the dry
state, then the warp would have to extend. Such extension would require force for its
accomplishment, just as with the fibres in a swollen yarn. But as there is no such force and the
cloth is under no constraint, the weft threads move closer together in order that the warp yarns
can remain in same length. The cotton therefore shrinks in the warp direction.
Alternatively, where the warp threads are straight, then the weft threads are crimped and the
fabric shrinks weft way.
Such shrinkage in woven fabrics, during wetting is simply termed as residual shrinkage.
In most fabrics warp yarns are finer than weft yarn and therefore bend easily. Again they are
closer together for good cover and are less able to bend the weft threads. So stable structure is
that which the warp crimp is high and weft crimp is low. The shrinkage amount is dependent
on-
1. The nature of fibres.
2. The character of threads.
3. The way of interlacing of thread in the fabric.
4. Crimp in yarn.
5. Cycle of washing no. of washing.
Sanforizing process:
Sanforinzing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the
normal dimensional alternation of warp and weft.
Principle:
Sanforizing process is based on the principle that when a elastic felt blanket is passed
around a metal roller in contact with it, its outer surface is express extended and the inner
surface contracted. If a cotton fabric is placed on the outer surface of eh felt blanket and allow to
move with it into the subsequently contracted surface of the blanket formed by moving
opposite curvature, the fabric is contracted by compression. So the process is called controlled
compressive shrinkage process.
Procedure:
The process can be carried out by palmer machine with a special attachment of metal shoe and
metal roller near the big drum and blanket. The shoe is heated by an electric current and tightly
pressed against the fabric. The shoe prevents the fabric slippage as it fed into the space between
the felt blanket and palmer cylinder with the same speed as the felt blanket. Since the blanket
moves around the small metal feed roller the top layer of the felt is stretched while the other
surface contacting the roller is compressed. When the fabric passes onto the big roller with a
small curvature the top layer of felt is compressed in the warp wise direction. Thus the fabric is
at first stretched and then is compressed. This makes the fabric sanforized. Residual shrinkage
of fabric is determined by thickness of blanket and diameter of feed roller. Feed roller dia is
generally 2 inch.
Main cylinder dia is generally 1.5-2.1 metre.
When felt thickness is 0.275″ it gives shrinkage of 3.5″ per yard and when felt thickness is 0.45″ it
gives shrinkage of up to 5.6″ per yard.
After sanforizing the fabric is washed by 1% soap and 0.5% soda at 36°C temperature for 30
minutes.
Causes of shrinkage:
The major cause of fabric shrinkage is due to the swelling of threads on wetting. The thickened
warp yarns require more space to enable them to pass over and under the swollen weft yarns.
So they must adopt an undulating path and so the cloth shrinks.
The cotton materials are not completely shrunk on the first wash but continue to shrink in
further washes. So shrinkage seems to depend on the intensity of washing treatment.
Shrinkage also depends on amount of crimp in yarn and fineness of yarn.
Chapter 6
Resin Finishing
Resin:
Synthetic resins are complex organic products of high molecular wt. Resin results when a
number of simple molecular of low molecular wt become joint together and to end to from
much longer molecules which may be linear or linear molecules cross-linked.
The main outlet of resins has been the plastic Industry and the electrical field, considerable
amounts has been used as paints and varnishes.
Resin finishing:
The process of applying resins on textile mtl. so that they cross link inside the amorphous
region, block the free hydroxyl groups, prevent the H-bond formation and thus improve resin
finishing.
Resin may be applied on the surface of the mtl to from a coating or if may be applied to the
amorphous region of the mtl to import a crease resisting property.
Resin finishing is a permanent chemical finishing. The principle is based on the formation of in
finite networks and the quantitative characterization of network structure with cross linking of
homogeneous polymers.
Cross-Linking agents:
Cross linking agents create chemical bonds betn polymer molecules to form a three
dimensional network e.g in a fibre or in a pigment birder. This generally restricts swelling in
inhibits solubility and alters elastic recovery. The most important cross linking agents are-
i) Urea formaldehyde.
ii) Tetramethylol acetylene diUrea (TMADU)
iii) Dimethylil ethylene Urea (DHEU)
iv) Dimethylol Dihydroxy ethylene Urea (DMDHEU)
The types of cross-linking agents to be used depends mainly on-
i) Demand placed on the resin finish goods.
ii) The composition and construction of the textile mtl.
iii) The process employed.
Urea-formaldehyde :
The reaction betn Urea and formaldehyde in neutral or alkaline medium results primarily in the
production of mono methylol urea or dimothylol Urea:
NH2 NH CH2OH
O C + HCO O C
NH2 NH2
Mono-methyl Urea
NH CH2OH NH CH2OH
O C + HCHO O C
NH2 NH CH2OH
Dimethyl Urea
At least, didmethyl urea forms three dimensional network at the amorphous region of cotton
fibere.
Application:
Impregnation 120-180ºC
Drying120-103 ºC
Curing/Heating120 ºC -150 ºC
Advantage:
Lower lost
Higher efficiency
Recommended only for colour finished goods.
Disadvantages:
Strength loss occurs
Abrasion resistance decrease.
Handle of fabric becomes shift and harsh.
The finished mtl can not be bleached by chlorines
CH 2 OH
NH CHOH N CHOH
O C + HCHO O C
NH CHOH N CHOH
CH 2 OH
DM DHEU
Advantage :
i) Gives very good crease recovery effects on cotton, Rayon & bleached fabrics.
ii) The disability is of very high order
iii) It does not reduce the light fastness of reactive dyed textile mtls.
iv) Can be used in all casing process.
v) Exhibits no chlorine retention.
CH2OH
HN CH2 N CH2
O C + 2HCHO O C
HN CH2 N CH2
CH2OH
Dimetylol cyclic ethylene Urea (DMEU)
Advantage:
4 to 5% DMEU can give crease recovery angle up to 280º
No yellowing
No chlorine absorption
It is extremely good & effective and can be used in white fabrics.
Disadvantages:
It reduces light fastness of reactive dyed fabric
After finishing with this agent, wash treatment is required
If erects problem if hypo chlorite bleach is used.
Disadvantages:
Fabrics show a tendency of yellowing on wring.
For the fabrics to be finished with DMDHEU, the treatment is very critical, especially
during bleaching special attention is to be given otherwise fabrics may be damaged.
Chapter 7
Flame Retardancy
Pyrolysis:
Irreversible chemical decomposition due to non oxidative heating combustion. Salt catalyzed
exothermic reaction involving fuel and oxidizer.
Flames:
Combusion process in the gas phase accompanied by emission of visible light.
Flammability:
Tendency of a mtl to burn with a fame under specified test conditions.
To char:
To form a carbonaceous residue during pyrolisis or combustion.
Flame propagation:
Spread of flame from region to region in a combustiable material.
Flame resistance:
Property in a material of exhibiting reduced flammability.
Flame retardant:
Chemical compound capable of imparting flame resistance to (reducing the flammability) of a
material to which it is added.
Flame retardency:
Chemical process or treatment where by improved flame resistance is imparted to a material.
Flame proof:
A flame proof is one which does not propagate flame i.e. any flame goes out quickly when the
igniting flame is withdrawn.
Step-3
Transfer of heat
energy.
Endothermic Exothermic
Relatively low
molecular wt
Step-1 Condensed air pyrolisis product Step-2 Vapour phase
Solid phase (oxidation)
Volatile pyrolysis
product is produced
Step-1: This step is endothermic. The polymeric material under the influence of externally
applied heat undergoes thermal decomposition and becomes relatively low molecular weight
pyrolisis product.
Step-2: After paralysis, if the temp is equal to or greater than that required for oxidation, the
paralyzed product is oxidized and forms oxidation product, CO2 and H2O. This step is
Exothermic.
Step-3: The flame provides a part of its heat for the continued paralysis of the substrate. The
roast part or that heat is dissipated and is lest in environment.
Combusion of cellulose :
Cellulose
Heat
Levoglucosan 18%
Intermediate
Secondary char
1%
pyrolysis product
Final Char H2O
Tertiary pyrolin
product
Volatile pyrolysis
product
2. For polyester: O
3. Wool:
Ammonium salt of
Antiblaze RDI phosphoric Acid
Example: Mixture of Borax and Boric acid in the ratio of 7:3 with a small amount of water for
padding the fabric. The mixture is applied on the fabric of about 6-7% on the weight of fabric.
Example_1Pyrovatex CP:
Pyrovatex is a trade product of CIBA, USA. and the chemical name of Pyrovatex is N-methylol
dialkyl phonopropionamide.
Reciepe:-
Pyrovatex CP → 35 parts
Resin (Melamune formaldehyde
or Hexamethylol melamine) → 8 parts
Weting agent → 0.1 parts
Catalyst(phosphoric acid) → 2 parts
Water → 54.9 parts
----------------------------
100 parts
Application process:
Advantages:
Low toxicity
Good fabric handle
Durable with repeated alkaline laundering
Example_2: Proban:
Proban is phosphorous and nitrogen containing flame retardant that shows P-
N synergism
The chemical name of proban is Tetrakis Hydroxy Methyl Phosphonium
Chloride (THPC)
It is invented by Albright Wilson
It is the most successful phosphorus compound for durable flame retardant on
cellulose.
Recipe:
THPC → 16 parts
Trimethylol melamine → 10 parts
Urea → 10 parts
Triethanol amine → 3 parts
Wetting agent → 1 parts
Water → 60 parts
-----------------------------------------
Total → 100 parts
Application process:
Advantages:
Most popular and best quality finishing agent
Very good durability
Low strength loss
Increase of
i. Crease resistance
ii. Rot resistance
iii. Mildew resistance
Radiation
Heat
Fig: Combusioin as a feedback mechanism with flame retardant actions.
In the fig: Presents the combustion of any textile material as a feed back mechanism in which
fuel (from thermally degraded or pyrolysed fibres), heat (from ignition and combustion) and
oxygen (from the air) feature as the main components. In order to interrupt the mechanism, five
modes (a)-(e) are proposed.
Each stage with a relevant flame retardant action is listed below:
(a.) Removal of heat: High heat of fusion and/ or degradation
and/or dehydration.
(b.) Enhancement of decomposition Not usually exploited by flame retardants;
temperature: more usually in inherently flame and heat
resistant fibres (e.g. aramid)
(c.) Decreased formation of Most phosphorus-and nitrogen-containing
flammable volatiles, increase in flame retardants in cellulose and wool;
char: heavy metlal complexes in wool.
(d.) Reduced access to oxygen or Hydrated and some char-promoting
flame dilution: retardants release water; halogen-containg
retardants release hydrogen halide.
(e.) Interference with flame Halogen-containing flame retardants,
chemistry and/or increase fuel often in combination with antimony
ignition temp (TC): oxides.
Methods of flame retardency:
Pad Dry
(I)
(IV)
Back-coat Dry/Cure
Recipe:
60 gm Velden PF are pested with
60 gm Ethanol &
250 ml water at 40°C
20 gm Sodium Acetate Crystals are dissolved in
250 ml water at 40°C and added to the Veldon PF disporssion
The total liquor is finally diluted to 1000ml total volume with water at 40°C.
Application process:
Polysiloxan: The silicon polymers, used as water repellents have the following chemical
backbone:
-O-Si-O-
These polymers are named as polysiloxanes.
3 types of polysiloxanes namely-
a. Dimethyl polysiloxane
b. Metyl hydrogen polysiloxanes
c. Hydrogen polysiloxanes.
a. Dimethyl polysioxanes: Dimetyl polysiloxanes are slow in reaction and consequently are
relatively unaffected by storage. They give moderate water repellency and high durability.
The chemical structure-
b. Methyl hydrogen polysiloxane: Methyl hydrogen polysilxane occupies a position between
the hydrogen polysiloxanes and dimethyl polysiloxane. They can impart high water
repellency, increased flex abrasion resistance. The chemical structure:-
c. Hydrogen polysiloxanes:
Highly reactive
Are not stable during storage
The water repellent effect obtained with hydrogen polysiloxanes is good
Low fastness to wash
Rarely used polysiloxane
Structure formula-
Polysiloxane finishing agent named Silicon emulsion H478 is the 60% emulsion
of methyl hydrogen polysiloxane and produced by ICI. It gives very good
synergism result.
Recipe:
Silicon M478 → 50 parts
Urea formaldehyde precondensate (45%) → 150 parts
Zirconium oxychloride → 10 parts
Acetic acid (glacial) → 3 parts
Sodium acetate → 6 parts
Water → 774 parts
Application process:
Padding (at 40-60°C, pick up 70-80%)
Drying (at 100°C)
Curling (at 120°-150°C×2-3′)
No afterwash is required
Cellulose
C17H35CONHCH2Ocell
C18H37NCO + NH C18H37NHCON
CH2 CH2
Cell
C18H37NHCONH-CH2
Ocell