Creating A Standard Operating Manual For Sourcing Department of Pantaloons Fashion Retail LTD

Creating Standard Operating
Procedure Manual for Sourcing

Department Of
Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd.
January–April 2015
Submitted By:
Kundan Premdas Ganvir
Batch: 2013 – 2015
Department Of Fashion Management Studies
National Institute Of Fashion Technology,

Mumbai
Acknowledgement
I am grateful to NIFT for providing me an opportunity to do research work

on “Creating a SOP manual for Sourcing Department at Pantaloons”. I
express my whole hearted thanks to my guide Professor Tanmay Kandekar for
his encouragement and moral support in organizing my work and giving me
valuable tips for making it presentable.
I am indebted Miss Nupur, Mr. Vinod Doijad, Mr. Amey Parkar and Miss
Sonal, my industry mentors who have guided and supervised me throughout this
study.
Lastly, I am also obliged to my friends and colleagues for providing me

valuable suggestions during completion of this project work.
Name: Kundan Ganvir

Roll no: M/MFM/12/15
Batch: 2013-15
(Masters of Fashion Management)
i
Certificate
This is to certify that project entitled “Creating Standard Operating Procedure
Manual for Sourcing Department of Pantaloons” submitted towards the partial
fulfilment of the degree project by Kundan Ganvir is his original work under my
guidance and the result are based on research done by him.
Tanmay Kandekar
Assistant Professor
Date: …..../……../……...
Place: NIFT, Mumbai
ii
Acknowledgement
I am grateful to NIFT for providing me an opportunity to do research work

on “Creating a SOP manual for Sourcing Department at Pantaloons”. I
express my whole hearted thanks to my guide Professor Tanmay Kandekar for
his encouragement and moral support in organizing my work and giving me
valuable tips for making it presentable.
I am indebted Miss Nupur, Mr. Vinod Doijad, Mr. Amey Parkar and Miss
Sonal, my industry mentors who have guided and supervised me throughout this
study.
Lastly, I am also obliged to my friends and colleagues for providing me

valuable suggestions during completion of this project work.
Name: Kundan Ganvir

Roll no: M/MFM/12/15
Batch: 2013-15
(Masters of Fashion Management)
iii
Certificate
This is to certify that project entitled “Creating Standard Operating Procedure
Manual for Sourcing Department of Pantaloons” submitted towards the partial
fulfilment of the degree project by Kundan Ganvir is his original work under my
guidance and the result are based on research done by him.
Tanmay Kandekar
Assistant Professor
Date: …..../……../……...
Place: NIFT, Mumbai
iv
Declaration
I, Kundan Ganvir hereby declare that the project work entitled “Creating SOP
manual for Sourcing Department at Pantaloons”, Submitted to National
Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai, is record of original work done by
me under the guidance of Professor Tanmay Kandekar (National Institute of
Fashion Technology, Mumbai), and no part of the project has been copied from
any other report or any other were carried by someone else and this have been
submitted for any other degree/award. However, any material taken from any
other published source has been suitably referred and acknowledged at various
places.
Date: 17st May 2015 Name: Kundan Ganvir

Place: Mumbai Roll no: M/MFM/12/15
Centre: Mumbai Batch: 2013-15
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Executive Summary
This project aimed at understanding the complete sourcing process at Pantaloons
Fashion Retail Ltd and creating a Standard Operating Procedure manual for Sourcing
Department.
These standardised operating procedures describes fundamental operational
elements of every activity in the sourcing process.
For understanding the sourcing process, it was divided into two main parts;
namely, Sampling and Bulk production. Further division resulted into seven major
activities that are necessary for completion of Sourcing process: Design sheet
handover, Sampling allocation, Design sample follow up, Handover, Bulk allocation,
Cost closure and Production follow up. Literature about SOP and SOP preparation
was reviewed to understand and note the process and possible elements to be
included in the SOP manual. A basic template for preparing SOPs was prepared under
the guidance of Miss Nupur, Head of Sourcing, woven garments.
The literature review also revealed the writing, revision and updating process
and instructions for SOP manuals. Now, under the guidance of Mr. Amey Parkar,
Deputy Manager, and Sourcing Dept. each activity of sourcing process was broken
down into simple steps. Once all the steps of an activity are noted, it was reviewed by
other team mates to reduce the possibilities of any steps being missed out.
A basic template was created for SOPs, which included: Purpose of the activity, Scope
of the procedures, References, RACI matrix, Checklist and a table for noting activity
related documents. The RACI matrix gives a quick glance at who in the sourcing team
will be held responsible, accountable, and informed about the activity. The checklist at
end of the standardised procedures can also be used as quick reference once the
user/follower is used with SOPs. The SOPs are written so simple that even if a new
professional reads them, he can perform the activity/task without supervision.
As process may change/altered over period of time, provisions for reviewing and
updating the operating procedures are also made. These provisions of revision are
company specific and are kept confidential in case of Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd.
The project has provided insight of all the activities that are carried out for successfully
completing sourcing process at Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd. The project if
implemented properly will provide benefits like time saving, reduced stress, least
miscommunication with other departments and improved efficiency of the follower.
Even with limitations like no first hand involvement in some activities and time
constrains of industry mentors which delayed the reviews, the project was completed
in time and presented to the company on 17th April 2015.
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Few suggestions provided to the company:
I. Every department must create SOP manuals of their own to create a sync
between them.
II. The reader/follower must use his/her presence of mind under the
circumstances where he/she feels SOPs cannot be implemented
completely.
To summarize the importance of the project, it is necessary to understand following
statement:
“If not written correctly, standardised operating procedures are of limited value. In
addition, even the best written SOPs will fail if not followed.”
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Table of Contents
1. Introduction ......................................................................................................................................... 1
1.1 Need of creating SOPs .................................................................................................................. 1
1.2 Importance of project .................................................................................................................... 1
2. Company Profile ................................................................................................................................. 2
2.1 Introduction to Aditya Birla Group ............................................................................................... 2
2.2 Vision and Values ......................................................................................................................... 3
2.3 Pantaloons ..................................................................................................................................... 4
2.3.1 Pantaloons Offerings .............................................................................................................. 6
3. Project Objective ................................................................................................................................. 7
3.1 Primary Objectives........................................................................................................................ 7
3.2 Secondary Objectives.................................................................................................................... 7
4. Sourcing Department .......................................................................................................................... 8
4.1 Team Structure .............................................................................................................................. 8
4.2 Responsibilities of Sourcing Department ..................................................................................... 8
4.2.1 Product related responsibilities .............................................................................................. 8
4.2.2 Financial responsibilities...................................................................................................... 10
4.2.3 Vendor Related Responsibilities .......................................................................................... 11
4.2.4 Negotiations techniques followed by Pantaloons ................................................................ 11
4.3 Sourcing Hierarchy ..................................................................................................................... 13
5. Functioning of the Sourcing Department .......................................................................................... 14
5.1 Process flow and time required to garment manufacturing: ....................................................... 14
5.1.1 Fabric mill presentation ....................................................................................................... 16
5.1.2 Getting Tech-Pack and Developing Sample for Presentation. ............................................. 16
5.1.3 Sample Presentation ............................................................................................................. 17
5.1.4 Samples selected for Bulk Production ................................................................................. 17
5.1.4 Costing ................................................................................................................................. 17
5.1.4.2 Costing format of PANTALOONS ................................................................................... 18
5.1.5 Fabric Booking and Trim Booking ...................................................................................... 21
5.1.6 Vendor Allocation ................................................................................................................ 22
5.1.7 Production process ............................................................................................................... 23
5.1.8 Inspection ............................................................................................................................. 24
5.1.9 Dispatch ............................................................................................................................... 24
6. Creating SOPs ................................................................................................................................... 25
6.1 Literature Review........................................................................................................................ 25
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6.1.1 Defining of ‘Standard Operating Procedures ....................................................................... 25
6.1.2 Benefits of Standardizing Operating Procedures .......................................................... 26
6.1.3 Preparation of SOPs ...................................................................................................... 27
6.1.4 SOP templates ............................................................................................................... 28
6.2 Standardising Operating Procedures for Pantaloons ............................................................. 30
6.2.1 SOP preparation ................................................................................................................... 30
6.2.2 Format adopted for Sourcing SOP ................................................................................ 32
6.2.3 SOPs Created for Sourcing Department ....................................................................... 34
7. References ......................................................................................................................................... 53
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1. Introduction
1.1 Need of creating SOPs
An SOP is a set of instructions or steps someone follows to complete a job safely, with
no adverse impact on the environment (and which meets compliance standards), and in a way
that maximizes operational and production requirements.
Following are the reasons for creating SOPs:
1. To provide individuals who perform operations with all information required to

perform a job properly
2. To ensure that operations are done consistently in order to maintain quality control of
processes and products
3. To ensure that processes continue and are completed on a prescribed schedule
4. To ensure that approved procedures are followed in compliance with company
regulations
5. To serve as an historical record of the how, why and when of steps in a process for use
when modifications are made to that process and when a SOP must be revised
6. To serve as an explanation of steps in a process that can be reviewed in incident
investigations that seek to improve practices and operating
7. To serve as a training document for teaching new joiners about the process
8. Creating a standardised documentation for easy reference and understanding
1.2 Importance of project

The project aims at creating one operating procedure for all sourcing teams of Pantaloons
Fashion Retail Ltd. Various teams of sourcing department works for achieving same goal of
getting the sampling and bulk production completed in time. But the overall performance of
each team is different. Thus, by creating one SOP manual for all teams, the company aims at
raising the performance of all sourcing teams.
Apart from improving performance, the project will initiate a quality system for standardising
the procedures carried out by sourcing. This quality system will gradually help other
departments too for standardising their procedures, benefiting the company.
Standardising the documentation process will also help in increasing quality of work, reducing
unwanted stress and conflicts within and between departments.
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2. Company Profile
2.1 Introduction to Aditya Birla Group
A US $40 billion corporation, the Aditya Birla Group is in the League of Fortune 500. It is
anchored by an extraordinary force of over 120,000 employees belonging to 42 nationalities.
The Group has been ranked Number 4 in the global 'Top Companies for Leaders' survey and
ranked Number 1 in Asia Pacific for 2011. 'Top Companies for Leaders' is the most
comprehensive study of organisational leadership in the world conducted by Aon Hewitt,
Fortune Magazine, and RBL (a strategic HR and Leadership Advisory firm). The Group has
topped the Nielsen's Corporate Image Monitor 2013-14 and emerged as the Number 1
corporate, the 'Best in Class', for the second consecutive year.
Over 50 per cent of the Aditya Birla Group's revenues flow from its overseas operations. The
Group operates in 36 countries – Australia, Austria, Bangladesh, Brazil, Canada, China, Egypt,
France, Germany, Hungary, India, Indonesia, Italy, Ivory Coast, Japan, Korea, Laos,
Luxembourg, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Poland, Russia, Singapore, South Africa,
Spain, Sri Lanka, Sweden, Switzerland, Tanzania, Thailand, Turkey, UAE, UK, USA, and
Vietnam.
Aditya Birla Group – The Indian Scenario
In India, here's what the group has accomplished:
 The largest fashion (premium branded apparel) and lifestyle player

 The second-largest manufacturer and largest exporter of viscose filament yarn
 The largest producer in the chlor-alkali sector
 Among the top three mobile telephony companies
 A leading player in life insurance and asset management
 Among the top two supermarket chains in the retail business
Rock solid in fundamentals, the Aditya Birla Group nurtures a culture where success does not
come in the way of the need to keep learning afresh, to keep experimenting.
Aditya Birla Group – Beyond Business
 Works in 3,000 villages

 Reaches out to seven million people, annually, through the Aditya Birla Centre for
community Initiatives and Rural Development spearheaded by Mrs. Rajashree Birla
 Focuses on healthcare, education, sustainable livelihood, infrastructure and espousing
social reform in India, Brazil and Egypt, as well as Philippines, Thailand, Laos,
Indonesia, Korea and other Asian countries
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In India:
 The Aditya Birla Group runs 42 schools, which provide quality education to 45,000
children. Of these 18,000 students belong to the underprivileged segment.
 Merit scholarships are given to an additional 12,000 children from the interiors.
 The 18 hospitals run by the Aditya Birla Group tend to more than a million villagers.
 The idea of embedding CSR as a way of life in organisations has led to the setting up
of the FICCI – Aditya Birla CSR Centre for Excellence, in Delhi.
The Aditya Birla Group transcends the conventional barriers of business because we believe it
is our duty to facilitate inclusive growth.
2.2 Vision and Values
Our Vision
To be a premium global conglomerate, with a clear focus on each of the businesses.
Our Mission
To deliver superior value to our customers, shareholders, employees and society at large.
Our Values
 Integrity:
Acting and taking decisions in a manner that is fair and honest. Following the highest standards
of professionalism and being recognised for doing so. Integrity for us means not only financial
and intellectual integrity, but encompasses all other forms as are generally understood.
 Commitment:
On the foundation of Integrity, doing all that is needed to deliver value to all stakeholders. In
the process, being accountable for our own actions and decisions, those of our team and those
in the part of the organisation for which we are responsible.
 Passion:
An energetic, intuitive zeal that arises from emotional engagement with the organisation that
makes work joyful and inspires each one to give his or her best. A voluntary, spontaneous and
relentless pursuit of goals and objectives with the highest level of energy and enthusiasm.
 Seamlessness:
Thinking and working together across functional groups, hierarchies, businesses and
geographies. Leveraging diverse competencies and perspectives to garner the benefits of
synergy while promoting organisational unity through sharing and collaborative efforts.
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 Speed:
Responding to internal and external customers with a sense of urgency. Continuously striving
to finish before deadlines and choosing the best rhythm to optimise organisational efficiencies.
2.3 Pantaloons
Pantaloons Fashion & Retail, one of the top clothing brands in the world, is India's fastest
growing premium lifestyle company. With innovative designs, concepts and products, the
company brings the latest trends in fashion and clothing styles to the apparel market.
Pantaloons, previously controlled by the Future Group, has been recently taken over by Aditya
Birla Nuvo Limited, a US $4 billion premium diversified conglomerate and India's largest
manufacturer of linen fabric.
Pantaloons offers multiple accessories and clothing brands across a spectrum of categories for
men, women and kids. The company provides an incredible and complete one-stop shopping
experience to its buyers through its vast collection of more than 200 prestigious brands for the
discerning fashionista. Pantaloons, with a presence across 49 cities through 104 aesthetically
designed large format stores and 26 factory outlets, displays a range of classy and trendy
merchandise that truly lives up to Pantaloons’ maxim of ‘fresh fashion’.
A typical Pantaloons store comprises a brand portfolio that runs across a gamut of styles that
spell class. The collection includes ready-to-wear western and ethnic apparel for men, women
and kids, complemented by an exhaustive range of accessories. The variety of products and
brands has helped propel Pantaloons to become one of the best clothing brands in India.
Apparel, brands and accessories
Pantaloons offers its customers a collection of apparels and accessories from the stables of
globally renowned brands. The private labels for men in western wear include Lombard, Rig,
Bare Denim, Bare Leisure, SF Jeans, Byford, F Factor and JM Sport apart from trendy brands
like Urbana, Scullers, John Miller and Indigo Nation. Akkriti provides a wide selection of
ethnic wear.
The women’s section houses the private labels — Bare Denim, Bare Leisure, Rig, Annabelle,
Honey, and Ajile — in western wear, as well as the choicest ethnic wear from RangManch,
Trishaa and Akkriti. Popular brands like Lee Cooper, Biba and W are also available. The formal
wear section offers a range of crisp and well-tailored collection by popular international brands
such as Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Peter England and Louis Philippe.
Kids can choose from private labels like Bare Denim, Bare Leisure, Rig, or indulge in exclusive
brands like Lee Cooper Juniors, Chalk, Poppers, Pink & Blue, and Sach in addition to
international brands like Barbie and Disney. For the ethnic look, they can opt for traditional
wear from Akkriti. The portfolio of brands also includes infant wear by Chirpie Pie.
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Pantaloons offers much more than just apparel. Customers can shop from an assortment of
watches from renowned international brands, including Tommy Hilfiger, Esprit, Kenneth Cole,
Citizen, Timex, Titan and others.
Trendy sunglasses from Polaroid, Guess, Police, Scott, I Dee and Allen Solly are also available.
The accessories and beauty segments display an attractive collection of ladies’ handbags from
Lavie, Caprese, Fiorelli and Fastrack. Also available are products from colour cosmetic brands
such as Bourjois, Chambor, Deborah, Faces, Revlon, Maybelline, and Lakmé, as well as a wide
collection of exotic fragrances.
In its endeavour to meet the consumer’s ever-changing fashion needs, Pantaloons has
introduced new brands that include Candies, Alto Moda, Turtle, Spykar, 109F, AND,
Chemistry, Global Desi and Giny & Jony.
Pantaloons is an integral part of the prestigious Aditya Birla Group, a USD 40 billion Indian
multinational company, operating in 36 countries across the globe with over 120,000
employees. Voted as ‘India’s Most Trusted Apparel Retail Brand’ in the prestigious Brand
Equity Survey 2014, Pantaloons continues to nurture consumer trust and confidence.
With its overwhelming repertoire of lifestyle apparel brands, the company is focused on growth
while continuing to create fresh fashion. Among some of the top clothing brands in India,
Pantaloons is recognised by its warm personalised service that completes the core proposition
of this trendy chain.
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2.3.1 Pantaloons Offerings
Men’s Wear:
Formal Wear- Lombard
Evening Wear- F Factor
Casual Wear- SF Jeans, Byford, Bare Denim, Bare Leisure, Rig, JM Sports, Alto Moda
Active Wear- Ajile
Ethnic Wear- Akkriti
Women’s Wear:
Ethnic Wear- Akkriti, Rangmanch, Trissha, Alto Moda
Casual Wear- Candies, SF Jeans, Honey, Bare Denim, Rig, Alto Moda
Formal Wear- Annabelle
Evening Wear- Annabelle
Active Wear- Ajile
Kids Wear:
Kids Casual Wear- Poppers, Chalk, Bare Kids, Chirpie Pie
Kids Ethnic Wear- Akkriti
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3. Project Objective
3.1 Primary Objectives
 To study the complete work flow of the Sourcing Department and its co-ordination
with the Design, Category, Tech And QA Department
 To create a set of written instructions that documents various activities of Sourcing
Department
3.2 Secondary Objectives

 To provide the reader/follower with information to perform a job properly
 To facilitate consistency, uniformity and quality control at each level of working
 To create references for supporting routine
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4. Sourcing Department
4.1 Team Structure
SOURCING DEPT.
Technical
SOURCING & Quality
Assurance
Circular Fabric &

Ethnic Woven Bottoms Flat Knits Tech & QA
Knits Trims
The sourcing department of the Pantaloons Fashion Retail Pvt Ltd is responsible for
manufacturing and delivering the selected range of styles for the season at right time, at right
price points and in accordance with the quality standards pre-defined by the organization. The
sourcing department is also responsible for scoring desired profit margins over manufacturing
costs of each style garments so that it can be sold at the MRPs decided by the buying/category
department.
4.2 Responsibilities of Sourcing Department

The responsibilities of sourcing team can be divided into two main parts:
1. Product Related responsibilities and

2. Financial responsibilities
3. Vendor related responsibilities
4.2.1 Product related responsibilities

Sourcing team is the only part of the company which is in direct contact with the manufacturing
units or the vendors. The development of the products as per needs of the design and
buying/category teams.
The product related responsibilities of the sourcing team can be sub divided as:
i. Product development:
For every season, the design team creates an option plan, which needs to be
developed to prepare range. This option plan includes numerous flat sketches of
styles which the design team prepares. The responsibility of the sourcing team
is to develop actual samples from these flat sketches.
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ii. Improvising product inputs:
As part of the new product development, the sourcing team needs to visit
various vendors for discussing the flat sketches. The vendor, then provides
various developments in the market in terms of fabrics, trims and technologies.
The sourcing team must try to incorporate these developments in their products
for improvisations.
iii. Searching suitable options/substitutes:
Many a times, the designers’ perception about new development are not feasible
in terms of bulk production. The sourcing team must, therefore, search for
possible substitutes. This may help in reduction of overall cost, at the same time
maintaining the aesthetic of the product.
iv. Sampling:
The product development process has to be supported by various sampling at
different stages. Sample approvals are necessary to monitor the production
process. It also helps in conveying progress to other departments of the
organization.
v. Approvals of lab dips, strike offs and fabric swatches, accessories, trims and
tags
As the sampling process continues, various constituents of the final products are
also being finalized. Lab dips approvals are necessary for approving solid
colours. Strike offs are the options provided by the vendor for the prints. Various
trims, accessories and embellishments needs to be approved from
category/buying teams to avoid downgrades in the aesthetics of the final
product.
vi. Booking orders:
As the sampling process ends and final sample is approved, the sourcing teams
must place orders as per the negotiations happened with the vendor.
vii. Monitoring production process in terms of time and quality
Actual implementation of a design is complicated and time consuming and
sourcing team has to deliver the finished product within the time limit. As the
production is initiated, the sourcing team must start follow up with the vendor.
This provides timely updates on the progress and also proves helpful if any
problem arises.
viii. Communicating between vendor and other departments of company:
Many a times, changes in the construction and design aspects are changed, for
which sourcing team acts as a medium of communication between company and
vendor.
ix. Following up the production process:
Production process must be completed within the time to be in sync with the
T&A calendar for the season. For the same, the vendor must be questioned time
to time.
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x. Following up the dispatch and shipment
Once the production is done and packed, the sourcing team must provide
necessary details for getting the goods to the warehouse. The goods must reach
the warehouse in time to avoid loss on sales.
4.2.2 Financial responsibilities

As it is the sourcing team who actually produces the product to sell for the company, they must
produce it at lowest possible costs to help in acquiring highest amount of profit margins.
In Pantaloons Fashion Retail Pvt Ltd, following are the financial responsibilities that the
sourcing team must handle:
i. Sampling costs:
The company do not provide and sampling charges. The vendor must bear all
the sampling costs at any level.
ii. Raw material procurements:
The sourcing must be updated with the current market rates of all the materials
and making charges for the garment. The sourcing team must suggest cheaper
options in case the cost of material procurement provided by the vendor is
higher. Also, the sourcing team must be aware if the vendor himself has fabric
or accessories production facility so that the procurement cost and also the
overall manufacturing cost per garment can be brought down.
iii. Product costing:
A rough product costing must be done while taking handovers from category
team. The sourcing team must be prepared in terms of various cost saving
parameters of the style. For the negotiations with vendor, the garment costing
must be estimated by confirming costs of fabrics, trims, etc. from other related
sourcing teams of the company.
While negotiating costs with vendor, the sourcing team must try to achieve
lower costs than estimated, so that higher profits can be derived from each style.
Also, the negotiations must be kept realistic to avoid vendor losses.
iv. Maintaining profit margins:
The negotiations must aim at maintaining profit margins (Range 60 to 70
percent) per style. Lower the manufacturing costs, higher will be profits derived
on full MRP sale.
v. Avoiding product and raw material liabilities :
The sourcing team must monitor the vendor to avoid excess procurement of raw
materials or over production of garment pieces. This excess production creates
liability over the company and binds use of same raw materials over upcoming
season. This should be avoided wherever possible.
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vi. Safeguarding payments
Pantaloons Fashion Retail Pvt Ltd has a list of nominated vendors who supply
raw materials for garment productions. The garment vendor needs to pay them
once their order is fulfilled. The sourcing team must insist the garment vendor
for completion of such payments.
Also, the company must safeguard timely payments to the garment vendors
once they complete their order as per the pre decided terms and policies.
4.2.3 Vendor Related Responsibilities

The sourcing team must search for vendors who can provide better performance in terms of
delivery, quality and costing. These new vendors must be evaluated in terms of various
parameters like
The new vendors must be registered with the company and all the related policies must be
conveyed.
4.2.4 Negotiations techniques followed by Pantaloons

A successful negotiation outcome does not generally occur though luck, but by following a
clear process. The process reflects the different levels of knowledge of the subject of
negotiation, various parties and the way they communicate at various stages in the negotiation.
The following is an outline of steps essential to effective negotiation.
 Prepare, prepare and prepare:

Enter a negotiation without proper preparation and you’ve already lost. Start with
yourself. Make sure you are clear on what you really want out of the arrangement.
Research the other side to better understand their needs as well as their strengths and
weaknesses.
 Pay attention to timing:
Timing is important in any negotiation. Sure, you must know what to ask for. But be
sensitive when you ask for it. There are times to press ahead, and times to wait. When
you are looking your best is the time to press for what you want. But beware of pushing
too hard and poisoning any long-term relationship.
 Leave behind your ego:
The best negotiators either don’t care or don’t show they care about who gets credit for
a successful deal. Their talent is in making the other side feel like the final agreement
was all their idea.
 Ramp up your listening skills:
The best negotiators are often quiet listeners who patiently let others have the floor
while they make their case. They never interrupt. Encourage the other side to talk first.
That helps set up one of negotiator’s oldest maxims: whoever mentions number first,
loses. While that’s not always true, it’s generally better to sit tight and let the other side
go first. Even if they don’t mention numbers, it gives you a chance to ask what they are
thinking.
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 If you don’t ask you don’t get:
Another tenet of negotiating is “Go high, or go home.” As part of your preparation,
define your highest justifiable price. As long as you can argue convincingly, don’t be
afraid to aim high.
 Anticipate Compromise:
You should expect to make concessions and plan what they might be. Of course, the
other side is thinking the same, so never take their first offer. Even if it’s better than
you’d hoped for, practice your best look of disappointment and politely decline. You
never know what else you can get.
 Offer and expect commitment:
The glue that keeps deals from unravelling is an unshakable commitment to deliver.
You should offer this comfort level to others. Likewise, avoid deals where the other
side does not demonstrate commitment.
 Don’t absorb their problems:
In most negotiations, you will hear all of the other side’s problems and reasons they
can’t give you what you want. They want their problems to become yours, but don’t let
them. Instead, deal with each as they come up and try to solve them. If their “budget”
is too low, for example, may be there are other places that money could come from.
 Close with Confirmation:
At the close of any meeting- even if no final deal are struck-recap the points covered
and any areas of agreement. Make sure everyone confirms. Follow up with appropriate
letters or emails. Do not leave behind loose ends.
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4.3 Sourcing Hierarchy
Head
Category & Sourcing
Head
Tech & QA
Wovens Denim Fabric Trims Ethnic Knits
Mens
Team Circluar Flat
Kids
Team
Women
Team
Womens
Team
Deputy
Manager 2
Deputy
Assistant
Manager 1
Manager
Assistant
Intern
Manager
Intern
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5. Functioning of the Sourcing Department
5.1 Process flow and time required to garment manufacturing:
A season’s sourcing process can be divided into two main parts:
1. Sampling &
2. Bulk production
Sampling process mainly consists of developing new styles according to the option plan for a
season, which are then presented before the category team for range presentation. While the
bulk production part, as the name suggests, is the process of bulk production of the selected
styles at the range production.
As per the objective of the project it very important to focus on all the steps of garmenting. All
the steps of the process have to be taken down and analysed so that there can be clarity in
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understanding and finding the proper solution. The factors that to be noted down are as
follows:-
 Time taken for each process

 Breaking down each and every process
 Complexity of each process
 Problems faced by the departments in the process.
 Basic and Major requirements
Some fixed rules and measures of the company are:
 Lead time for the garment production is 90 days

 Payment to the vendors will be done after 120 days of garment in-house date.
Complete Break-Down of the process, starting from the fabric mill presentation to the final
product dispatch to warehouse:
Getting Tech-Pack and Developing Sample for Presentation

Total time given for Sampling- 50 After 50 Days date fixed for
Days Presentation
In Presentation; Samples decided for Bulk Production

15 Days taken to decide the Also the costing is done in the
Quantity same time
After 10 Days; Fabric booking and Trim Booking is done

60 Days was the lead time for 50 Days were taken to get the
Fabric whole Trims
After 60 Days production process starts

First made fit sample; its takes 10 Now Pre-Production Sample; it again
Days takes 10 Days.
Inspection
Dispatch
15
5.1.1 Fabric mill presentation
Every textile mill who is vendor for the company arrange a presentation of their fabric for the
coming season.
Main objectives of the presentation are:-
 To present the new innovated fabric for the coming season

 To present their best quality fabric
 To get the orders for the fabric from the apparel company for the season
 To maintain their sustainability in the competitive market.
 To increase their quantity of order from the apparel brands
Major Textile mills who work with pantaloons are-:
 Arvind Mills
 Suryalakshmi
 Oswal
 Mahalaxmi
 Blue Blend
 LNJ Denims
 KG Denims
 Raymonds etc
In the presentation designers and various sourcing department heads selects the various no of
fabric for the sampling of the coming seasons.
The selected fabric where sent for the sampling to the various garment vendors.
5.1.2 Getting Tech-Pack and Developing Sample for Presentation.

After the selection of fabric through from the presentation, designer give the tech-packs for the
sampling to the sourcing department to develop the sample for the coming season.
There are various categories of samples made in the process of sampling:-
5.1.2.1 New Development

This is first development of any sketch sheet. Three pieces are made in similar kind of fabric
5.1.2.2 Proto Sample

A proto sample is typically made in triplicates in actual fabric.
The proto sample is made for the presentation of the company for the coming season.
The total time given for the sampling process is between 50 to 60 days. It is very important to
develop the sample in between this time period. As to follow the time & action chart it is very
important to do the presentation of sample in the fixed date.
5.1.2.3 Flexibility given to the department.

Generally it is very important to present at least 65percent of total styles given for the sampling
purpose. The rest of the styles can be presented after some time but to be on safe side the
16
company has to finalize his approx. 70 percent of its styles for the coming season, so that there
should not be any delay in launching.
5.1.3 Sample Presentation

Sample presentation is the presentation of sample made by the designers to the industry leaders.
In the presentation every designer gives the presentation on each and every sample he/she
designed.
The presentation contains:
 The story of the sample

 Reason of developing such type of sample
 Its future possibility of sale
 Present fashion trend in relation to the sample and the upcoming fashion trend.
After the presentation various company heads finalize the sample that have to be undergone
for the bulk production.
5.1.4 Samples selected for Bulk Production

Now after the sample is selected for the bulk production, it is the time to decide the quantity of
the production for each style selected, also to calculate the cost of garment.
Category department decides the no of quantity of production for each style. The quantity of
style is decided by understanding and analysing the following, measures which are as follows:-
 Analysing the last year sales data

 Response of the customer
 Coming fashion trend
 Aesthetic appeal of the garment, etc.
5.1.4 Costing
Costing is the most important factor in the process. In order to achieve perfect garment costing,
one must know about all the activities including purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport,
overheads, etc. and also about their costs, procedures, advantages and risk factors.
Garments costing:
There are two types of garments, namely woven and knitted garments. Shirt, trouser, bed
spreads, blankets, towels and made ups are woven. T-shirts, sweaters, undergarments, pyjamas
and socks are knits.
Costing is the deciding factor for fixing of prices and the important thing to follow in all stages
like purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc. Also update knowledge about everything
related to garments, is essential to make perfect costing.
Costing includes all the activities like purchase of fabrics and accessories, processing and
finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over
heads, banking charges and commissions, etc.
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We must be aware that there are always fluctuations in the costs of raw materials and
accessories, charges of knitting, processing, finishing, sewing and packing, charges of transport
and conveyance. The method of making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many
different styles in garments. Hence let us take men's basic T-shirt style as example which is in
regular in use.
To find out the costing of a garment, the following things should be calculated?
 Fabric consumption.
 Gross weight of other components of garment.
 Fabric cost per kg.
 Fabric cost per garment.
 Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.)
 Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes, buttons, bows, etc.)
 CMT charges.
 Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards, polybags, cartons, etc.)
 Cost of a garment.
 Price of a garment
5.1.4.2 Costing format of PANTALOONS

The garment costing at Pantaloons Fashion Retail Pvt Ltd happens on open cost sheet basis.
The open cost sheet format is forwarded to the garment vendor along with the sample for bulk
production and tech pack. This open cost sheet is format which is used as a base to note all cost
inputs to the garment.
The cost inputs in term of fabric, trims, accessories, embellishments, etc. are confirmed from
related team of sourcing department for current market rates.
The same open cost sheet format is used by the sourcing team to arrive at estimated cost per
garment. The costing happens for medium sized garment. When the same open cost sheet is
received from the vendor’s side, it is compared with sourcing team’s cost sheet and negotiations
begin.
An example of open cost sheet is provided:
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19
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5.1.5 Fabric Booking and Trim Booking
Now after getting approval of garment quantity it is the time for fabric booking and trim
booking. It is very important to book the fabric and trims for production process.
Total time given for the fabric delivery from the day of booking= 60 days
Total time given for the trim delivery from the day of booking= 50 days
Fabric should be ordered as soon as possible as it is the most time taking component in the
garmenting process, but there are many steps that have to be taken by the sourcing person to
order the bulk fabric for the production.
Some of these steps are:
 Getting approval of the no of colours

 Lab dip approval from the designer for the selected colours
 Order quantity of fabric according to the consumption of fabric for each garment.
 Checking whether the fabric fits in the company measures.
Importance of lab-dip approval; its problems and process
 Now after the presentation the first process that comes in to action is the Lab Dip
Approval process.
 After the selection of the style the designer select the no of colours that has to be made
in the selected range.
Now the colours are not directly ordered for bulk dying, first of all ; the small length of fabric
is dipped in the selected colours and then it is send for the approval to designer and the after
getting approval the bulk dying of fabric is started.
The fabric mill send 2 to 4 options of swatches for bulk production under the same colour and
get the approval from the sourcing department and design department.
Complexity in the lab dip approval process are:-
 From the similar looking colour with slight difference one colour is selected for bulk
production; and according to that selection all the trims were ordered.
 Now the problem comes in this is even after the full approval process in bulk production
there can be a possibility of colour difference.
This one of the most difficult situation that comes in front of sourcing team; as all the trims
were ordered according to the lab dip approval. For ex. Zipper (DTM); Buttons and Threads.
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5.1.6 Vendor Allocation
Now the most important task that has to be performed by the sourcing department is the vendor
allocation. For this it is very important to understand the vendor management.
5.1.6.1 Vendor Management

Efficient vendor management involves selecting the right vendors capable of giving the right
quality of merchandise and meeting delivery deadlines. Besides, they should be able to deliver
the right quantities as well, so that the retailer can get the right ‘hit ratio’. The right hit ratio
measures the gap between delivery and purchase orders and helps eliminate backlog in
deliveries. In a chain store scenario, a vendor directly delivering to stores is an important
element in attaining good supply chain efficiency. The vendors directly manage inventories in
a few retail
organizations.Vendor Managed Inventory (VMI) is ideal for retail organizations as it totally e
liminatesinventory-carrying costs. Here, vendors manage the inventory at every store,
monitoring the flow of information and ensuring just-in-time deliveries. The vendors are able
to take back slow-selling and non-moving merchandise, thus reducing the scope for mark-down
losses for the store.
Business houses in India are presently undergoing a major transformation in the Purchasing
and Supply management functions with the objective of achieving effective and optimum
sourcing. Bought-in costs currently represent a significant portion of the cost base of any
manufacturing enterprise and therefore this programme is of major strategic importance.
Several specific objectives need to be laid down as follows:
 Developing the Organisation towards an effective and optimum sourcing capacity.

 Developing closer relationships with the suppliers and foster “win-win” atmosphere
that eliminates inefficiency and waste.
 Building strong linkage between user departments and materials management function.
 Improving materials procurement and management processes.
 Developing focused sourcing strategies across all commodities. To achieve these
objectives and to perform the purchasing function efficiently/effectively, a sound
vendor community of vendors should be motivated and capable enough to supply the
best at the required time in a cost-effective manner, thus becoming a reliable link for
the company. It is to arrive at this end result that Vendor Management assumes great
importance. Some of the best practices are described in the subsequent sections.
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5.1.6.2 Acquisition of A Vendor
This process should be such that only the required and proven vendors get into the vendor base.
Vendor acquisition process could be started from one or more of the following sources:
Through market intelligence, a vendor is identified to be suitable for a commodity.
 Through commodity research.

 End users make specific recommendation.
 Vendor approaches company for business.
One (or more) vendor on commodity panel is found unsatisfactory. The last three factors are
basically reactive actions whereas acquiring a vendor through market intelligence and
commodity research/expert opinion are proactive ways of identifying a suitable vendor.
5.1.6.3 Building and Maintaining The Relationship

After a vendor gets associated with the company, it becomes essential to foster a health
relationship whereby both develop trust in each other and perceive the relationship as a
mutually lucrative one. Various steps are taken to achieve this objective which is discussed
further herein.
5.1.6.4 Vendor Assessment

Performance assessment of a vendor is a pre-requisite to continual relationship. Poor
performance would be penalized (refer termination) and good performance would be rewarded
suitably. For suppliers of goods, rating is done on four parameters viz. price.
Delivery compliances, quality of the product and vendor professionalism, each is given
weightage of 32%, 32%, 26% and 10% respectively.
5.1.7 Production process

As now the vendor is finalized it is very important that the vendor should start working on the
fit sample and size set before receiving the bulk fabric
 FIT SAMPLE
If buyer likes any of the meeting samples, then he provides the size chart. Now that
sample is made according to that measurement and sizes. This is called fit sample. Fit
samples are made of base size as per the measurement specification sheet. And these
samples are then test fitted on the dummies provided by the respective buyer.
 SIZE SET
Size sets are a translation of the graded specification sheet into garment. These are sent
in all sizes. A size set approval is important before starting production to ensure that
the construction and the workmanship required for the style for various sizes is correct.
Now after getting the approval of Fit sample; it is the responsibility of the vendor to ask for
some yardage from the bulk producing fabric mill. So that the pre-production sample can be
made from that. This process will save the time of vendor instead of waiting for the bulk fabric
to make pre-production sample.
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 PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE
As the name suggests a sample made before production is stated in actual approved
fabric with the correct styling. All approval has to be obtained from the buyer on the
pre-production sample before commencing production.
Now as the pre-production sample was approved and send to the vendor, the vendor start its
production process as per decided.
5.1.8 Inspection
After the production was completed and the goods are ready to dispatch, the vendor send the
shipment sample to the company for approval and send the mail for the inspection of the goods
to the department of sourcing.
Now the shipment sample is approved by the category department, the company send their QA
to the vendor for the inspection of the garments. Until and unless the garments are not approved
by the QA, vendor cannot dispatch the garment to warehouse.
5.1.9 Dispatch
After the approval of garments by QA of the company, the goods are dispatch to the warehouse
by the vendor.
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6. Creating SOPs
6.1 Literature Review
6.1.1 Defining of ‘Standard Operating Procedures
Different writers defined SOP with slight variations. For example, the U.S Environmental
Protection Agency and European Medicines Agency defined it as, “a set of written and detailed
instructions that document a routine or repetitive activity followed by an organization to
achieve uniformity of the performance of a specific function”. SOP describes a set of steps that
a person or group of people must perform to complete a job by removing variation. It is a
process document that details the way an operator should perform a given function. In short,
SOP is a document that clearly defines who does what, where, how and why.
Some of us might have the assumption that the application of SOP is only relevant to complex
businesses and organizations. However, it extends to cover even the most minor aspects of
work. Sometimes one might not recognize that they follow certain steps in their routine
functions. For example, think of what one does before and after dining. They seem non-existent
but there are certain steps that we all intuitively follow when dining and yet, if one disregards
such steps, it will not be hard to imagine the consequences-an unhygienic and a messy situation.
In some business or service environs, the values of SOP are highly acknowledged, while in
many others the case may be different. In those where its values are appreciated, SOP is claimed
to have the role of minimizing errors that may occur due to misinterpretation or
miscommunication of information; circumventing procedural mix-ups; evading uncertainties
and confusions; and serving as a vital tool to transfer knowledge and skill.
According to the U.S Environmental Protection Agency (EPA, p. 1), SOP avoids variations
regardless of the operator and time of operation; provides individuals with the information to
perform a job properly; facilitates consistency in quality of an end-result; addresses safety
concerns; and minimizes chances for miscommunication, even if there are temporary or
permanent personnel changes.
de Treville et al. described that SOP ensures that all workers are performing tasks in the same
way, which is a necessary condition to obtain consistent output; and asserted that if a workforce
cannot operate the parlor consistently, then the whole operation will fail. A modern-day SOP
enables organizations to ensure uniformity and consistency in the process, across departments
that affect their products and services. Edelson & Bennett (as cited in de Treville et al, 2005)
described SOP as a component of a total quality management that plays an integral role in
improving the output of a given process consistently and efficiently. SOP ensures compliance,
accountability, and efficiency among clinical investigators.
According to Biologic Technological Applications (EBTE) Consultants, SOP standardizes

activities of a specific procedure; speeds up the integration of an individual into the
organization during an initial phase of an employment; improves transparency within the
organization; serves as a valuable structure for internal communication; shares best practices
within the organization; and provides valuable background information for management policy
development and change.
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SOP also helps facilitate the transfer of knowledge and skill. Over a course of time, there is
one inevitable challenge that employers face i.e. talented and experienced individuals may
either temporarily be out of work or permanently change their work place or may retire for
good for that matter. In such cases, the organization definitely loses its accumulated knowledge
and skill and as a result, the organization may suffer from the symptoms of service hiccups.
Levinthal & March (as cited in de Treville et al, p.231) asserted that SOP has the ability to
facilitate the transfer of knowledge that leads to variability reduction and organizational
effectiveness.
6.1.2 Benefits of Standardizing Operating Procedures

IntelliSOP, a company into service sector, states benefits of SOPs as:
The development and use of SOPs is intended to minimize deviations and promote and control
quality through consistent implementation of a process or procedure within the company.
Consistency at process level is maintained even if there are temporary or permanent personnel
changes and across all project specific activities. SOPs can ensure compliance with
organizational governmental requirements and are typically used as a part of a personnel
training program, since detailed work instructions are provided in them. SOPs can also be
valuable for reconstructing project activities retrospectively when no other references are
available and when historical data are being evaluated for current use. When the regulatory
authorities provide high level guidance on certain procedures to ensure acceptable quality for
use, organizations may have some flexibility to operate so long as the general requirement is
observed. Then, SOPs are used to define the details of how this will be applied in the
organization.
Isin Akyar (2012). Standard Operating Procedures (What Are They Good For ?), Latest
Research into Quality Control, Dr. Mohammad Saber Fallah Nezhad (Ed.), ISBN: 978-
953-51-0868-9, InTech, DOI: 10.5772/50439. Available from:
http://www.intechopen.com/books/latest-research-into-quality-control/standard-
operating-procedures-what-are-they-good-for-
The improvement and use of SOPs promotes quality through consistent implementation of a
process or procedure within the organization reduced work effort, along with advanced data
comparability, credibility, and legal defensibility. The details in an SOP standardize the process
and support step-by-step how-to instructions that enable anyone within your operation to
perform the task in a consistent manner. They abbreviate difference and advance quality
through constant impact of a process or procedure inside the organization, although there are
temporary or permanent personnel changes.
SOPs can signify agreement with organizational and governmental needs and can be used as a
part of a personnel training program, since they should supply detailed work instructions.
Eventually, the benefits of a valid SOP are decreased work effort, along with developed
comparability, credibility, and legal defensibility.
Sonja Vorster, founder of Virtual Productivity Solutions, states five benefits of

implementing SOPs on her blog (http://virtualproductivitysolutions.co.za/):
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1. Reduced learning curve/training time for new employees
When someone is new on the job, well-written and researched SOP can be a lifeline to
them to be able to know how things work. By referring to the SOP, the new employee
will know exactly which agency to use with their contact details, which type of car to
hire/service to use, how many quotes to get regarding the venue, how to communicate
with the workshop delegates, etc. without having to ask you about it all. It’s a great
time-saver and confidence booster for the new employee.
2. Ensured business continuity
When a key staff member is on leave or not in the office for some reason, work does
not have to stand still. By referring to the SOP someone else can take over the urgent
tasks and do them correctly the first time.
3. Standardized processes
The SOP makes it easy to find out what policies and procedures are in place to handle
repetitive situations/tasks.
4. Delegating tasks becomes a no-brainer
A good SOP will include the organogram of the business, as well as have a short job
description and contact details for each staff member. If you need to delegate a certain
task, you can see at a glance who will be able to help you or advise you. You can stop
micromanaging, as it is clear who is responsible for what.
5. Ensure that your clients are getting the best possible experience with you
Because there is a standard way of dealing with client queries, refunds, promotions,
follow-up etc., you can make sure that each client is treated fairly and equally,
enhancing their interactions with you. You thus provide the best possible client service.
6.1.3 Preparation of SOPs

When actualizing a SOP one can choose number of different ways to organize and format them.
There are some factors which determine what type of SOP to use or create: How many
decisions will user need to make during process? How many steps and sub steps are there in
procedure? Routine procedures that are short and necessitate few decisions can be written using
simple steps format. Long procedures consisting of more than 10 steps, with few decisions
should be written along with graphical format or hierarchical steps. Procedures that necessitate
many decisions should be written along with flow chart. Requirement for document
identification and control, accountability and traceability responsibility must be involved with
every SOP; this can be obtained by supporting constant format.
The need for an SOP or the revision of an existing one should be identified by informing the
appropriate supervisor. Written instructions on standardized procedures supply guidance to
guarantee that activities are conducted in a constant way, hence leading to reliable product and
service quality. SOPs should be prepared in full compliance with guidelines and organizations
and must mirror current organizational practices. Ideally, SOP’s should be written by teams
that involve some or all of the following people: Those who will perform the job, those who
will perform maintenance on equipment involved in an SOP, engineers or others who design
equipment and processes, technical initiator, safety personnel, environmental personnel,
equipment manufacturers.
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Food and Agriculture Organization of the US, states following for initiating SOPs:
The initiative and further procedure for the preparation, implementation and management of
the documents is a procedure in itself which should be described. These SOPs should at least
mention:
 who can or should make which type of SOP;
 to whom proposals for a SOP should be submitted, and who adjudges the draft;
 the procedure of approval;
 who decides on the date of implementation, and who should be informed;
 How revisions can be made or how a SOP can be withdrawn.
It should be established and recorded who is responsible for the proper distribution of the
documents, the filing and administration (e.g. of the original and further copies). Finally, it
should be indicated how frequently a valid SOP should be periodically evaluated (usually 2
years) and by whom. Only officially issued copies may be used, only then the use of the proper
instruction is guaranteed.
6.1.4 SOP templates

The literature review has provided various options and explanations for generating a
specialized format for SOP manual. The major constituents are mentioned:
1. The Title page

The title page must suggest the department, process and year or the time period for
which the SOPs are created.
2. Table of content
If the process is divided into more than three procedures, a table of content must be
included into manual for easy referencing.
3. Introduction to the Manual
The manual must be precisely introduced to the reader with brief about the complete
process and its importance in the organization.
4. The SOP:
a. Common contents
These are the pointers that will be on the top of every procedure. These pointers
are required for quick referencing.
i. SOP title
ii. SOP number
iii. Revision number, date
iv. Approval date
b. Purpose
The need or importance of the procedure in the process is to be mentioned as
purpose. This is not the purpose for creating SOP.
c. Scope
Scope covers who all are included in carrying out the procedure.
d. References
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If the standardised procedure is created using references from older manual or
documents owned by the organization.
e. Step wise procedure
The procedure or the activity needs to be broken down into small and easy steps.
The steps must be easy to read and understand and to recall.
If number of steps are increasing, making it hard to remember the sequence, the
activity must be broken down in parts and steps must be re-written.
f. Checklist (Optional)
Some SOP manuals are found to use checklist for following SOPs. This kind of
checklist will consist of the outcomes of the steps followed in the activity.
g. List of documents
Some companies sort out which all documents are needed during the activity or
procedure and/or documents that are created after completion of the activity.
5. Instructions for revision of procedures
Every company follows some standards for maintaining its documents. These are
specific to a company and some may not follow any such standards. The instructions
also include who all must suggest, carry out and implement changes in operating
procedures.
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6.2 Standardising Operating Procedures for Pantaloons
6.2.1 SOP preparation
6.2.1.1 Dividing process into small activities
Sourcing is a process of getting the product manufactured from various vendors. For a season,
the process initiates with design sheet handover from design team, continues with sampling
and bulk production and end as goods enter warehouse.
For creating standardised operating procedure for sourcing team, the complete process was
divided into two major parts:
1. Sampling and
2. Bulk Production.
Sampling process is required for developing new designs or the option plan. These new designs
are created by designers of the company are in form of flat sketches. These sketches are handed
over to the sourcing team for development. The sourcing team has to understand the design
and concept and get these designs transformed into garments from vendor.
Once these proto samples are created, a range presentation is held by the buying or category
team. Styles, shortlisted from range presentation are handed over to sourcing for their bulk
production. Sourcing team, allocates these styles to vendors and follows up the production
process.
Even after dividing the process into two parts, smaller activities that continue to happen over
the season needs to be differentiated. Further sub classification of activities can be considered
for standardising procedures:
a. Design sheet handover
b. Sampling Allocation
c. Design Sample follow up
d. Handover
e. Bulk allocation
f. Cost closure
g. Production Follow up
6.2.1.2 Writing Style to be followed

 SOPs to be written in a concise, step-by-step, easy-to-read format.
 The information presented will remain unambiguous and not overly complicated.
 The active voice and present verb tense should be used. The term "you" not be used,
but implied.
 The document not to be wordy, redundant, or overly lengthy.
 Information to be conveyed clearly and explicitly to remove any doubt as to what is
required.
 In addition, follow the style guide used by your organization, e.g., font size and
margins.
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6.2.1.3 SOP approvals and revision instructions
 SOPs should be reviewed or validated by one or more individuals with appropriate
training and experience with the process.
 Draft SOPs are actually tested by individuals other than the original writer before the
SOPs are finalized.
 The finalized SOPs should be approved as described in the organization’s Quality
Management Plan or its own SOP for preparation of SOPs.
 SOPs must be re-approved after each updates
 If required only the pertinent section of an SOP to be modified and the change
date/revision number for that section must be indicated in the table provided.
 SOPs should be also systematically reviewed on a periodic basis, for procedures to
remain appropriate and updated.
 If an SOP describes a process that is no longer followed, it should be withdrawn from
the current file and archived.
 A plan should be created to indicate the individual(s) responsible for ensuring that SOPs
are reviewed and remain updated.
6.2.1.4 Creating Checklist for each activity
 As many of the sourcing activities include interaction and communication with other
departments, checklist needs to be created for each of such activities.
 This checklist will include the outcomes of each step of the activity.
 Once the user understands the procedure, such checklist will be helpful for quick go
through the activity.
 But the user must understand that checklist is a part of SOP and not complete SOP
itself.
6.2.1.5 Document Control

 For documentation purpose and for creating systematic identity, company’s document
numbering system will be used.
 Each page of an SOP should have control documentation notation,
e.g.
Short Title/ID #
Revision #
Date of revision:
Page 1 of
 The revision number and date are very useful in identifying the SOP in use when
reviewing historical data and is critical when the need for evidentiary records is
involved and when the activity is being reviewed.
 A master database will be created which will indicate the SOP number, version number,
date of issuance, title, author, status, organizational division, branch, section, and any
historical information regarding past versions.
 This list may be used also when audits are being considered or when questions are
raised as to practices being followed within the organization.
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 Archival database to be maintained to store outdated SOPs for reference point of view.
6.2.2 Format adopted for Sourcing SOP

SOP # Procedure Name: Prepared By:
Revision # Effective Date: Approved By:
 This table will be present at start of every activity. It includes SOP number, which will
be used for reference at any point of time.
 The table will also contain title of the procedure or activity. Short forms can be used
here, but should be sufficient enough to represent the activity.
 The table will also contain names of the creator of the SOP and the one who approves
it, along with their respective designations.
 The revision number and date should also be mentioned, along with the date from which
the SOP are made effective.
Purpose:
To establish a documented system as a means of ensuring that the sourcing team provides
optimum solution to all business needs to related departments. (Will change from activity to
activity)
Scope:
These procedures applies to Souring teams of Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd. (Also to include
other departments involved in the activity)
References:
(For Documentation): Source of guidelines for noting the procedure.
RACI matrix:
Responsible Accountable
Consulted Informed
 The Chair or the designation will be mentioned.

 To distinguish between people/designation to be held responsible or accountable for
completion of the activity, the one who must be consulted, and the one who must be
informed after completion of the activity.
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Procedures:
 Step-by-step procedure.
 Write with bullet pointers
Checklist:



Related Documents:
Format Responsibility
Sr. No. Document Title Copy to
(Soft/Hard copy) Creation Maintenance
1.
(Main purpose of this head is to reduce number of documents in the process and remove
chances of repeat documentation)
 Standardized documents / drafted detailed document formats that are to be circulated

during activity OR formats of the reports to be saved, e.g. Format of excel sheets, Email
drafts, tech-packs during handovers, etc.
 Also include if the document should be saved as a soft copy, hard copy (filed), uploaded
in system (Adhaar), or in any other way possible.
 Also mention who will take care of the documentation (creating, saving/storing and
maintaining), and who will get copies of the documents.
 Create a checklist of documents
33
6.2.3 SOPs Created for Sourcing Department
6.2.3.1 SOP for ‘Design Sheet Handover’
SOP # 001 Procedure Name: Prepared By:
Design Sheet Handover
Purpose: To initiate the new sample/style development, the design team hands over the flat
sketch of a style along with its construction related measurements
Scope: The scope of these procedure is limited to the teams involved: The Design Team, the
Sourcing team and the tech-team.
References:
RACI matrix:
Designer Sourcing Champion

Sourcing Champion Designer
Garment Tech team
Consulted Informed
Sourcing & Design Sourcing Head

Managers Designing Head
General Manager
Executives
34
Procedures:
1) Designers to initiate handover meetings by e-mails.

2) The sourcing champion should receive the initial Design sheet and shopped/original sample
used for reference, if any.
3) The design team must demonstrate clarity over season’s story line, colour scheme, fabric
types, etc. to respective sourcing champion for better sampling output.
4) The Design sheet must contain & should be checked for:
a) Flat sketch
b) Bill of Materials
c) Construction Sheet
d) Measurement chart
e) Artwork (If any)
f) Fabric swatch for quality
5) Discuss the garment construction sheet for details and feasibility in case of complex
constructions.
6) Discuss through all the options to be made in each style.
7) Study the garment sketch to understand its construction and related details.
8) The artwork/print pattern/Repeats/colour combinations must be analysed for their
feasibility
9) Check if colours names are mentioned along with their Pantone numbers
10) After all details are checked and verified, end the meeting by updating the number of
design sheets handed over through mail.
Checklist:
 Garment Tech sheet

 Style no. /Reference style no.
 Fabric
 Colourway/Option plan
 Bill of Materials
 Trim fabric
 Any major trims
 Label details
 Artwork, if any
 Reference samples/Style no. (optional)
 Sampling Follow-up sheet
35
Related Documents:
Sr. Document
(Soft/Hard Copy to
No. Title Creation Maintenance
copy)
Designer &
A.M.
1 Tech pack Hard copy Designer Sourcing Team
Sourcing
Heads
Designer &
A.M.
2 Option Plan Soft copy Designer Sourcing Team
Sourcing
Heads
Designer &
Excel sheet- A.M.
3 Soft copy A.M. sourcing Sourcing Team
Style wise sourcing
Heads
36
6.2.3.2 SOP for ‘Sampling Allocation’
Sampling Allocation
Purpose: To allocate a style (New Development) to a vendor for developing a proto sample.
Scope: These procedures applies to Souring teams of Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd.
References:
RACI matrix: The Chair or the designation will be mentioned. To distinguish between
people/designation to be held responsible or accountable for completion of the activity, the one
who must be consulted, and the one who must be informed after completion of the activity.
Sourcing Champion Sourcing Champion
Consulted Informed
Deputy Manager Sourcing Head

Team Manager General Manager
Executives
37
Procedures:
1) Analyse the design sheet for understanding the style.

2) Check the design sheet for:
a) Flat sketch/Reference style
b) Complexity of style
c) Base fabric
d) Colorways
e) Complexity of Prints
3) The sourcing champion must analyse a vendor for:
a) Initial understanding of the design sheet
b) Fashion inputs to previous styles allocated
c) Capacity for bulk productions
4) The allocations must be conveyed to the vendor and design sheets or reference samples to
be mailed
5) The Sourcing team, along with designing team should be prompt in responding to any
sample production related queries of Vendor
6) Ensure vendor sends Open cost sheet as per format provided by the company
Checklist:
 Design sheet
 Main fabric details
 Reference sample/style no.
 Vendor allocation update sheet
 Development sample
Related Documents:
Sr. Copy
Document Title (Soft/Hard
No. Creation Maintenance to
copy)
AM or
Hard copy /
1 Design Sheet Designer Sourcing -
Soft copy
Team
AM or
2 Option Plan Soft copy Designer Sourcing
Team
Excel sheet for confirming
Sourcing Sourcing
3 allocation of styles (One Soft copy
Team Team
file per Brand)
38
6.2.3.3 SOP for ‘Design Sample Follow Up’
Design Sample follow up
Purpose: To ensure timely delivery of fits/proto samples to the head office.
Scope: The scope of this procedure is limited to the Sourcing team.
References:
RACI matrix:
Assistant Manager Assistant Manager

Deputy Manager
Consulted Informed
Group manager General Manager

Designer
39
Procedures:
1) Sending the technical sheet of the design allocated to the vendor along with the
shop/original sample via email and courier. The technical sheet should consist of
a) Flat Sketch
b) Bills of Material
c) Artwork [Computer Aided Design(CAD) in hard copy/soft copy/CD]
d) Construction Details
e) Measurement Charts
2) Communicate the dispatch via phone/e-mail.
3) Ensure the rough fit sample is delivered in 7-10 working days.
4) Ensure the rough fit sample is as per the requirements.
5) Ensure to give comments on the rough fit sample
6) If approved, proceed to make the final development sample.(4 -6 days)
7) Check the development sample and submit it.
Checklist:
Fit Sample
 Fit of garment
 Pattern/Block
 Placement of trims
Development Sample
 Correction in the design

 Workmanship
 Correct quality of fabric and Print
 Construction Details
 Details of Embroidery
 Quality of Trims
 Labels and Placement
Related Documents:
Sr.
Document Title (Soft/Hard Copy to
No. Creation Maintenance
copy)
1 Tech Packs Soft/Hard Designers Sourcing team
Sourcing
2 Fit sample comments Soft/Hard Category
Team
Daily communication Sourcing Sourcing
3 Soft
emails Team Team
40
6.2.3.4 SOP for ‘Handover’
SOP # Activity Title: Prepared By:
Handover- From Category
team to Sourcing
Purpose: To initiate the production process, the Buyer presents the selected range to Sourcing
team along with all style and range related details required for its mass production.
Scope: The scope of these procedures is limited to the teams involved: The Garment Sourcing
Team, Fabric Sourcing Team and Category Team or The Buyer.
References:
RACI matrix:
Buyer Sourcing Deputy Manager

Sourcing Champion Buyer
Fabric Sourcing Team
Consulted Informed
Sourcing Team Head/ Sourcing Head

Group Manager Category Head
Fabric team General Manager
Executive
41
Procedures:
1) Fix handover meeting schedule as the Buyer approaches along with Fabric Sourcing Team,
confirm by mail
2) Sourcing team members should receive Garment Sample & its Spec-Sheet.
3) Garment Sample must be analysed for:
a) Fabric (To know availability from Fabric Sourcing Team)
i) Discuss fabric cost and width details to calculate consumption
ii) Discuss tentative fabric delivery dates
b) Fabric colour (Either Pantone number or fabric sample for reference)
c) Prints (Type, Size, Repeat, No. of colours, Pantone no. of each colour)
d) Wash details
e) Trims & accessories (Quantity, Quality, Placement & Availability)
f) Stitching pattern
g) Styling and embellishments (Material, size, placement, etc.)
h) Embroidery (Type, No. of colours, size, placement, complexity)
4) Tag the garment sample with style number of the season. Remove all other tags.
5) Remove MRP sticker from garment (if any)
6) Create a swatch card and mention
a) Style number
b) Fabric quality & name
c) Attach fabric swatch cut from garment OR fabric reference sample
d) Attach print reference or print CAD
7) Garment Spec-Sheet must be checked for:
a) Garment Sketch/Garment Sample photo (For reference)
b) Fabric quality and name
c) Garment Fit details
d) Correction/Modification/Alteration/ Print remarks
e) Previous style and season details (If it is being continued)
f) Quantity required per colourway
g) Comments on Hit, M.R.P., delivery date, etc.
h) Bill of materials
i) Tags and related details (Size, Type, Sourcing details, etc.)
j) Measurement chart per size grading (Along with quality caution comments & tolerance
limits)
k) Folding and packing details
l) Label placement details
8) Spec-sheet must be updated with all the details.
9) Create a copy of spec-sheet for future reference and use.
10) File spec-sheet copies, swatch card and vendor garment tags together
11) Collect garment sample OR reference samples for further activities
12) Inform Sourcing Team Head (verbally and by mail) about completion of handover and
number of styles handed over
42
Checklist:
 Design Sample/Style Reference samples OR Style no.

 Garment Tech-pack
 Master Sketch sheet
 No. of colour ways, Garment Quantity for each
 Bill of Materials sheet
 Trims and accessories details
 Design Construction sheet
 Spec-sheet
 Label placement sheet
 Folding and packaging details sheet
 Stationary (Tags, Kimble tags, scissor, markers, stapler, swatch
cards, protector sheets etc.)
 Fabric/Print reference sample
 Fabric costs
 Fabric delivery date
 File the spec-sheet and swatch cards
 Inform senior about closure of handover process and number
of styles handed over
Related Documents:
Sr. Copy
copy)
Email for confirmation of Category
1 Soft Sourcing Team
handover meeting Team
Tech Pack with comments & Category
2 Hard/Soft Sourcing Team
corrections Team
Excel sheet details of handed Sourcing Team
3 Soft Sourcing Team
over styles Team leads
Email for conveying Sourcing Team
4 Soft
completion of handover Team leads
43
6.2.3.5 SOP for ‘Vendor Allocation’
Vendor Allocation
Purpose: To allocate orders to the correct garment vendor for bulk production, a decision based
on the knowledge of the sourcing manager and influenced by previous experience with vendor,
his expertise, complexity of the style and other relative factors.
Scope: These procedures are limited to the sourcing team members only.
References:
RACI matrix:
Sourcing Champion Sourcing Deputy Manager
Consulted Informed
Sourcing Team Manager Sourcing Head

Executive
44
Procedures:
For Allocation to Registered Vendor:
1) The Sourcing Champion for the brand must check the new sealer sample for:
a. Fabric (Quality, Feel & Looks, Wash)
b. Complexity of prints, embroidery or embellishments
2) Quantity of garments needed per colour way are also noted
3) Allocation of a style is based on:
a. Known capacity and workmanship capability of the vendor
b. Previous experiences with the vendor
New Vendor Allocation:
1) When a new vendor approaches the initial communication must begin for profiling the
vendor.
2) Inquire about details his Location, Machines, Technology, Work force, Skill sets,
Production capacity, working culture, Compliances, etc.
3) Vendor history must be analysed on:
a. Financial Condition- Sources/Amount of Capital
b. Willingness to work
c. Duration since establishment
d. Growth and evolution
e. Buyers and customers
f. Market positioning
4) Check the costing abilities of the vendor:
a. Provide him a previous/current season’s style for cost exercise
b. Negotiate on the cost provided by the vendor
5) Position the vendor based on his costing (Expensive/Cheap)
6) If costing of the style in negotiable limits, initiate QA team analysis
7) Register the vendor after QA team approval
8) Allocate a style for sampling after approval from QA team arrives
Checklist:
 Open cost Sheet

 Reference Sample
 Tech Pack
 Fit Comments Sheets
 Vendor Registration sheet (For New Vendor)
 Bulk quantity
45
Related Documents:
Sr.
copy)
Tech Pack & Open Cost Sourcing
1 Soft copy Vendor
sheet per style Team
Excel Sheet-
Sourcing Sourcing
2 Confirmation of Soft copy
Team Team
Allocation
Confirmation E-Mail
3 Soft copy AM, DM,
draft to Vendor
 Brand Wise files to
contain:
- Tech-pack
- Fabric Swatch /
Art work Hard copy
Sourcing Sourcing
4 - Fit & PP OR None
Team Team
comment sheets Soft copy
- Fit & PP approval
sheets
- Trim Pack details
Mail to provide Vendor Sourcing Sourcing

5 Soft Copy
Details to Category Team Team Team
Vendor Registration
sheet / Vendor Sourcing
6 Soft copy
Registration no. Team
(For New Vendor)
Category Sourcing
7 Article File Soft Copy
team Team
Sourcing Sourcing
8 T&A Calendar Soft copy
Team Team
46
6.2.3.6 SOP for ‘Costing and Cost Closure with Vendor’

Costing & Cost closure with
Vendor
Purpose: To negotiate & arrive at a fair cost of each garment which yields best profit margins
for the organization considering optimum maintaining equally good relation with its vendors.
Scope: These procedures applies to Souring teams of Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd.
References:
RACI matrix:
Sourcing Champion Sourcing Team Manager

Sourcing Team Manager
Consulted Informed
Sourcing Head Sourcing Head

Fabric Sourcing Team General Manager
Technical Department Executives
47
Procedures:
1) During sampling, ensure vendor provides an Open Cost Sheet as per the format provided
by the PFRL for each style allocated.
2) Open cost sheet should be checked for:
a) Base and trim fabric consumption, fabric width and fabric rates,
b) Sewing trims consumption and rates,
c) Cut and make cost,
d) Value addition costs (Washing, finishing, embroidery, etc.),
e) Packaging trims costs,
f) Vendor margins,
g) Ex-factory cost and
h) Total landed cost
3) The sourcing champion should keep records of costs of new fabrics/trims/embellishments
being used in the season
4) To calculate and verify fabric consumption of complicated styles, pattern marker can be
procured from technical department.
5) The sourcing champion should provide marker sheets for helping vendor develop
complicated styles or to solve consumption issues during fit or PP sampling.
6) After bulk production order is allocated to same vendor, the sourcing champion must use
the open cost sheet provided by vendor for cost negotiation.
7) Once the original sample or reference sample along with spec-sheet reaches vendor after
allocation, cost negotiation must be initiated by sourcing team.
8) Ask the vendor to propose price he can work per garment for bulk production.
9) Based on his/her knowledge & skills, the sourcing champion must negotiate with vendor
to arrive at final pricing which must be equal to or lesser than the base price derived to
maximize margins.
10) In case a different vendor is allocated for bulk production, fresh cost negotiations must be
initiated based on same sample.
11) Before closing final cost, all terms and cost break up must be revised for confirmation.
48
Checklist:
 Tech Pack (Final Tech pack)

 Open Cost Sheet- Created by Sourcing Team
 Open Cost Sheet- Provided by Vendor
 CAD markers for Complicated Styles
 Final cost sheet from Vendor
Related Documents:
Sr.
copy)
Tech Pack
- Fabric details
1 - Trim Details Hard copy AM, DM AM, DM
- Reference style #
- Comments
Initiation Mail to Vendor
including:
- Appointment
2 Soft copy AM, DM
date/time/venue
- Summary of styles to
be negotiated
Final Mail from Vendor for
3 Soft copy Vendor Sourcing Team
confirmation of cost closure
49
6.2.3.7 SOP for ‘Production Follow-up’
Production Follow-up
Purpose: To ensure timely delivery of merchandise in the warehouse.
Scope: These procedures applies to Souring team of Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd.
References:
RACI matrix: The Chair or the designation will be mentioned. To distinguish between
people/designation to be held responsible or accountable for completion of the activity, the one
who must be consulted, and the one who must be informed after completion of the activity.
Assistant Manager Sourcing Assistant

Manager
Consulted Informed
Sourcing Group Manager Sourcing Head

Fabric team Category Head
General Manager
Executive
50
Procedures:
1) Draft the time and action calendar for the season. Following factors must be considered
a) Season launch date
b) Fabric & trims ETA
c) Product wise lead time
d) Buffer time limits
e) Hits
2) Ensure respective fabric reaches the garment vendor by following with Fabric sourcing
team for fabric dispatch and expected delivery date.
3) For solid colours, approvals must be given through lab dips whenever necessary. Lab dips
must be approved from category.
4) For prints, ask vendor to provide strike offs. Get strike offs approved from category team.
5) Follow up with the vendor for providing fit samples. (Either with original or substitute
fabric & trims)
6) Follow up the vendor for providing fit samples in time.
7) Receive the fit sample and create an entry for it. Forward it to Technical Dept. for approval.
8) If Fit sample is rejected, the vendor must be conveyed the rejection along with detailed
reasoning. Ask vendor to re-submit the fit sample along with all corrections.
9) If the Fit samples are accepted, convey approval to the vendor and to proceed with further
processes.
10) The vendor must provide updates about bulk fabric receipt dates for future reference.
11) Before bulk production starts the fabric must be lab tested. Ensure vendor get the fabric
tested for its performance. The FPT results must be approved by technical team.
12) Ensure POs are being generated by and provided by category department. Check POs and
forward them to vendor to initiate the production process.
a) Separate POs must be provided for every warehouse or website
b) POs must be shared with vendors before production starts
13) As the bulk production initiates, the Pre-Production sample must be called for approval.
Pre-Production sample must be approved by Category, Sourcing and Technical teams.
14) Vendor must submit trim cards for approval to sourcing team along with PP sample.
15) Size set approval must be fetched during PPM. PPM is conducted at vendor’s premises in
presence of local QA team & vendor’s production and merchandising teams.
16) Initial samples from production must be called for Garment Performance Testing to lab.
17) If rejected, the report with all comments on reasons of rejection must be forwarded to
vendor. Ask for re-submission of corrected samples until GPT report comes out positive.
18) If GPT for a style is approved, convey approval for bulk production to the vendor.
19) Ensure smooth and timely production by following up the vendor.
20) Inquire about production status through Daily production reports.
a) The vendor must provide DPRs throughout the production process
b) The status of daily production must be reported whenever asked
21) As the production ends ensure the shipment sample is received and approved.
22) Re-submission of shipment sample must happen along with required corrections until
corrected sample do not arrive.
51
Checklist:
 Tech Packs with all comments & corrections

 T & A calendar
 Fabric receipt
 Strike off / Lab dips approvals
 Fit sample approval
 FPT tests & approval
 PO generation
 PP sample approval
 GPT & approval
 DPRs
Related Documents:
Sr.
copy)
Sourcing Sourcing
1 Tech Pack Soft/Hard
Team Team
2 Order allotment mail Soft Team Lead Team Lead
Sourcing Sourcing
3 T & A calendar Soft
Team Team
4 PO Soft
Sourcing
5 DPR Soft Vendor
Team
6 Soft
emails Team Team
52
7. References
 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3511899/#R1
 http://www.epa.gov/quality/qs-docs/g6-final.pdf
 http://www.emea.europa.eu/docs/en_GB/document_library/Scientific_guidelin
e/2009/09/WC500002874.pdf
 http://www.dddmag.com/articles/2010/09/not-so-standard-operating-
procedures
 www.dairyalliance.com/hrmgmt/organizationaldev/SOPManual.pdf
 http://www.hec.unil.ch/jantonakis/SOP%20motivation.pdf
 http://www.knowledgeleader.com/KnowledgeLeader/Content.nsf/Web+Content/Guid
esStandardizeDocumentationforInternalControls!OpenDocument
 http://www.fao.org/docrep/w7295e/w7295e04.htm
53
SOP Manual for
Sourcing Department
Created By: Kundan Ganvir Effective Date: 5/18/15
Contents
PART 1 ..................................................................................................................................................... 1
1. Introduction to the Manual ............................................................................................................ 1
2. The SOP Format .............................................................................................................................. 2
PART 2 ..................................................................................................................................................... 4
SOP 1. Design Sheet Handover ........................................................................................................... 4
SOP 2. Sampling Allocation ................................................................................................................. 7
SOP 3. Design Sample Follow-up ........................................................................................................ 9
SOP 4. Handover- Category dept. to Sourcing .................................................................................. 11
SOP 5. Vendor Allocation .................................................................................................................. 14
SOP 6. Costing and Cost Closure with Vendor .................................................................................. 17
SOP 7. Production Follow-up ............................................................................................................ 20
PART 3 ................................................................................................................................................... 23
Document Control............................................................................................................................. 23
3.1 Purpose and Applicability: ...................................................................................................... 23
3.2 Summary of Method: .............................................................................................................. 23
3.3 Procedural Steps: .................................................................................................................... 23
3.4 Numbering SOPS: .................................................................................................................... 23
3.5 Revising SOPS: ......................................................................................................................... 24
3.6 SOP Retention: ........................................................................................................................ 24
3.7 Quality assurance and quality control: ................................................................................... 24
3.8 References: ............................................................................................................................. 24
1
PART 1
1. Introduction to the Manual
This manual contains written instructions for the Sourcing Department Employees
which will guide them through various sourcing related activities.
The manual contains step wise description on how the activity should be carried out
to avoid complications during following processes and activities of the season. The
complete sourcing process is divided into seven major activities for easy
understanding of the process. Each activity is explained step by step for making the
activity easier. The steps and the activities are standardised to improve overall
efficiency of the process.
The manual also intends to ensure quality control over all the activities in compliance
to Aditya Birla Group’s quality assurance programs. Another intention of documenting
the simplified and standardised sourcing process is to provide a job guide to new
recruits, which should enable them to understand every activity of the sourcing
process.
1
2. The SOP Format
SOP # Procedure Name: Prepared By:
The box provides quick reference over the SOP details. The date and numbers
mentioned in the box can be used for referring to the process whenever required.
Purpose: To establish a documented system as a means of ensuring that the

sourcing team provides optimum solution to all business needs to related departments.
(Will change from activity to activity)
Scope: These procedures applies to Souring teams of Pantaloons Fashion Retail

Ltd. (Also include other departments involved in the activity)
References (for Documentation): Source of guidelines for noting the procedure.

RACI matrix: The Chair or the designation will be mentioned. To distinguish
between people/designation to be held responsible or accountable for completion of
the activity, the one who must be consulted, and the one who must be informed after
completion of the activity.
Consulted Informed
Procedures: Step-by-step procedure. (Write with bullet pointers) (Include Time

limits for each activity)
Checklist: The checklist intends to provide a list of outcomes of the steps, which
can be checked against for the completion of the activity.



2
Related Documents: (Main purpose of this head is to reduce number of
documents in the process and remove chances of repeat documentation)
 Standardized documents / drafted detailed document formats that are to be
circulated during activity OR formats of the reports to be saved, e.g. Format of
excel sheets, Email drafts, tech-packs during handovers, etc.
 Also include if the document should be saved as a soft copy, hard copy (filed),
uploaded in system (Adhaar), or in any other way possible.
 Also mention who will take care of the documentation (creating, saving/storing
and maintaining), and who will get copies of the documents.
 Create a checklist of documents
Sr. No. Document Title Copy to
(Soft/Hard copy) Creation Maintenance
1
3
PART 2
SOP 1. Design Sheet Handover

Design Sheet Handover
Purpose: To initiate the new sample/style development, the design team hands over
the flat sketch of a style along with its construction related measurements
Scope: The scope of these procedure is limited to the teams involved: The Design
Team, the Sourcing team and the tech-team.
References:
RACI matrix:
Designer Sourcing Champion

Sourcing Champion Designer
Garment Tech team
Consulted Informed
Sourcing & Design Sourcing Head

Managers Designing Head
General Manager
Executives
4
Procedures:
11) Designers to initiate handover meetings by e-mails.
12) The sourcing champion should receive the initial Design sheet and
shopped/original sample used for reference, if any.
13) The design team must demonstrate clarity over season’s story line, colour scheme,
fabric types, etc. to respective sourcing champion for better sampling output.
14) The Design sheet must contain & should be checked for:
a) Flat sketch
b) Bill of Materials
c) Construction Sheet
d) Measurement chart
e) Artwork (If any)
f) Fabric swatch for quality
15) Discuss the garment construction sheet for details and feasibility in case of
complex constructions.
16) Discuss through all the options to be made in each style.
17) Study the garment sketch to understand its construction and related details.
18) The artwork/print pattern/Repeats/colour combinations must be analysed for their
feasibility
19) Check if colours names are mentioned along with their Pantone numbers
20) After all details are checked and verified, end the meeting by updating the number
of design sheets handed over through mail.
Checklist:
 Garment Tech sheet
 Style no. /Reference style no.
 Fabric
 Colourway/Option plan
 Bill of Materials
 Trim fabric
 Any major trims
 Label details
 Artwork, if any
 Reference samples/Style no. (optional)
 Sampling Follow-up sheet
5
Related Documents:
Sr. Document
(Soft/Hard Copy to
No. Title Creation Maintenance
copy)
Designer &
A.M.
1 Tech pack Hard copy Designer Sourcing Team
Sourcing
Heads
Designer &
A.M.
2 Option Plan Soft copy Designer Sourcing Team
Sourcing
Heads
Excel Designer &
A.M. A.M.
3 sheet- Soft copy Sourcing Team
sourcing sourcing
Style wise Heads
6
SOP 2. Sampling Allocation
Sampling Allocation
Purpose: To allocate a style (New Development) to a vendor for developing a proto

sample.

Ltd.
References:
RACI matrix:
Sourcing Champion Sourcing Champion
Consulted Informed
Deputy Manager Sourcing Head

Team Manager General Manager
Executives
7
Procedures:
7) Analyse the design sheet for understanding the style.
8) Check the design sheet for:
a) Flat sketch/Reference style
b) Complexity of style
c) Base fabric
d) Colorways
e) Complexity of Prints
9) The sourcing champion must analyse a vendor for:
a) Initial understanding of the design sheet
b) Fashion inputs to previous styles allocated
c) Capacity for bulk productions
10) The allocations must be conveyed to the vendor and design sheets or reference
samples to be mailed
11) The Sourcing team, along with designing team should be prompt in responding to
any sample production related queries of Vendor
12) Ensure vendor sends Open cost sheet as per format provided by the company
Checklist:
 Design sheet
 Main fabric details
 Reference sample/style no.
 Vendor allocation update sheet
 Development sample
Related Documents:
Sr. Copy
copy)
AM or
Hard copy /
1 Design Sheet Designer Sourcing -
Soft copy
Team
AM or
2 Option Plan Soft copy Designer Sourcing
Team
Excel sheet for
confirming allocation of Sourcing Sourcing
3 Soft copy
styles (One file per Team Team
Brand)
8
SOP 3. Design Sample Follow-up
Design Sample follow up
Purpose: To ensure timely delivery of fits/proto samples to the head office.
Scope: The scope of this procedure is limited to the Sourcing team.
References (for Documentation):
RACI matrix:
Assistant Manager Assistant Manager
Deputy Manager
Consulted Informed
Group manager General Manager

Designer
9
Procedures:
8) Sending the technical sheet of the design allocated to the vendor along with the
shop/original sample via email and courier. The technical sheet should consist of
a) Flat Sketch
b) Bills of Material
c) Artwork [Computer Aided Design(CAD) in hard copy/soft copy/CD]
d) Construction Details
e) Measurement Charts
9) Communicate the dispatch via phone/e-mail.
10) Ensure the rough fit sample is delivered in 7-10 working days.
11) Ensure the rough fit sample is as per the requirements.
12) Ensure to give comments on the rough fit sample
13) If approved, proceed to make the final development sample.(4 -6 days)
14) Check the development sample and submit it.
Checklist:
Fit Sample
 Fit of garment
 Pattern/Block
 Placement of trims
Development Sample
 Correction in the design
 Workmanship
 Correct quality of fabric and Print
 Construction Details
 Details of Embroidery
 Quality of Trims
 Labels and Placement
Related Documents:
Sr.
copy)
Sourcing
1 Tech Packs Soft/Hard Designers
team
Fit sample Sourcing
2 Soft/Hard Category
comments Team
3 Soft
emails Team Team
10
SOP 4. Handover- Category dept. to Sourcing
SOP # 004 Activity Title: Prepared By:
Handover- From Category
team to Sourcing
Purpose: To initiate the production process, the Buyer presents the selected range
to Sourcing team along with all style and range related details required for its mass
production.
Scope: The scope of these procedures is limited to the teams involved: The Garment
Sourcing Team, Fabric Sourcing Team and Category Team or The Buyer.
References:
RACI matrix:
Buyer Sourcing Deputy
Sourcing Champion Manager
Fabric Sourcing Team Buyer
Consulted Informed
Sourcing Team Head/ Sourcing Head

Group Manager Category Head
Executive
11
Procedures:
13) Fix handover meeting schedule as the Buyer approaches along with Fabric
Sourcing Team, confirm by mail
14) Sourcing team members should receive Garment Sample & its Spec-Sheet.
15) Garment Sample must be analysed for:
a) Fabric (To know availability from Fabric Sourcing Team)
i) Discuss fabric cost and width details to calculate consumption
ii) Discuss tentative fabric delivery dates
b) Fabric colour (Either Pantone number or fabric sample for reference)
c) Prints (Type, Size, Repeat, No. of colours, Pantone no. of each colour)
d) Wash details
e) Trims & accessories (Quantity, Quality, Placement & Availability)
f) Stitching pattern
g) Styling and embellishments (Material, size, placement, etc.)
h) Embroidery (Type, No. of colours, size, placement, complexity)
16) Tag the garment sample with style number of the season. Remove all other tags.
17) Remove MRP sticker from garment (if any)
18) Create a swatch card and mention
a) Style number
b) Fabric quality & name
c) Attach fabric swatch cut from garment OR fabric reference sample
d) Attach print reference or print CAD
19) Garment Spec-Sheet must be checked for:
a) Garment Sketch/Garment Sample photo (For reference)
b) Fabric quality and name
c) Garment Fit details
d) Correction/Modification/Alteration/ Print remarks
e) Previous style and season details (If it is being continued)
f) Quantity required per colourway
g) Comments on Hit, M.R.P., delivery date, etc.
h) Bill of materials
i) Tags and related details (Size, Type, Sourcing details, etc.)
j) Measurement chart per size grading (Along with quality caution comments &
tolerance limits)
k) Folding and packing details
l) Label placement details
20) Spec-sheet must be updated with all the details.
21) Create a copy of spec-sheet for future reference and use.
22) File spec-sheet copies, swatch card and vendor garment tags together
23) Collect garment sample OR reference samples for further activities
24) Inform Sourcing Team Head (verbally and by mail) about completion of handover
and number of styles handed over
12
Checklist:
 Design Sample/Style Reference samples OR Style no.
 Garment Tech-pack
 Master Sketch sheet
 No. of colour ways, Garment Quantity for each
 Bill of Materials sheet
 Trims and accessories details
 Design Construction sheet
 Spec-sheet
 Label placement sheet
 Folding and packaging details sheet
 Stationary (Tags, Kimble tags, scissor, markers, stapler,
swatch cards, protector sheets etc.)
 Fabric/Print reference sample
 Fabric costs
 Fabric delivery date
 File the spec-sheet and swatch cards
 Inform senior about closure of handover process and
number of styles handed over
Related Documents:
Sr. Copy
copy)
Email for confirmation of Category Sourcing
1 Soft
handover meeting Team Team
Tech Pack with comments Category Sourcing
2 Hard/Soft
& corrections Team Team
Excel sheet details of Sourcing Sourcing Team
3 Soft
handed over styles Team Team leads
Email for conveying Sourcing Team
4 Soft
completion of handover Team leads
13
SOP 5. Vendor Allocation
Vendor Allocation
Purpose: To allocate orders to the correct garment vendor for bulk production, a
decision based on the knowledge of the sourcing manager and influenced by previous
experience with vendor, his expertise, complexity of the style and other relative factors.
Scope: These procedures are limited to the sourcing team members only.
References:
RACI matrix:
Sourcing Champion Sourcing Deputy
Manager
Consulted Informed
Sourcing Team Manager Sourcing Head

Executive
14
Procedures:
For Allocation to Registered Vendor:
4) The Sourcing Champion for the brand must check the new sealer sample for:
a. Fabric (Quality, Feel & Looks, Wash)
b. Complexity of prints, embroidery or embellishments
5) Quantity of garments needed per colour way are also noted
6) Allocation of a style is based on:
a. Known capacity and workmanship capability of the vendor
b. Previous experiences with the vendor
New Vendor Allocation:
9) When a new vendor approaches the initial communication must begin for
profiling the vendor.
10) Inquire about details his Location, Machines, Technology, Work force, Skill
sets, Production capacity, working culture, Compliances, etc.
11) Vendor history must be analysed on:
a. Financial Condition- Sources/Amount of Capital
b. Willingness to work
c. Duration since establishment
d. Growth and evolution
e. Buyers and customers
f. Market positioning
12) Check the costing abilities of the vendor:
a. Provide him a previous/current season’s style for cost exercise
b. Negotiate on the cost provided by the vendor
13) Position the vendor based on his costing (Expensive/Cheap)
14) If costing of the style in negotiable limits, initiate QA team analysis
15) Register the vendor after QA team approval
16) Allocate a style for sampling after approval from QA team arrives
Checklist:
 Open cost Sheet
 Reference Sample
 Tech Pack
 Fit Comments Sheets
 Vendor Registration sheet (For New Vendor)
 Bulk quantity
15
Related Documents:
Sr.
copy)
Tech Pack & Open Sourcing
1 Soft copy Vendor
Cost sheet per style Team
Excel Sheet-
Sourcing Sourcing
2 Confirmation of Soft copy
Team Team
Allocation
Confirmation E-Mail
3 Soft copy AM, DM,
draft to Vendor
 Brand Wise files to
contain:
- Tech-pack
- Fabric Swatch /
Art work
- Fit & PP
Hard copy
comment Sourcing Sourcing
4 OR None
sheets Team Team
Soft copy
- Fit & PP
approval
sheets
- Trim Pack
details
Mail to provide
Sourcing Sourcing
5 Vendor Details to Soft Copy
Team Team
Category Team
Vendor Registration
sheet / Vendor Sourcing
6 Soft copy
Registration no. Team
(For New Vendor)
Category Sourcing
7 Article File Soft Copy
team Team
Sourcing Sourcing
8 T&A Calendar Soft copy
Team Team
16
SOP 6. Costing and Cost Closure with Vendor
Costing & Cost closure with
Vendor
Purpose: To negotiate & arrive at a fair cost of each garment which yields best profit
margins for the organization considering optimum maintaining equally good relation
with its vendors.

Ltd.
RACI matrix:
Sourcing Champion Sourcing Team Manager
Sourcing Team Manager
Consulted Informed
Sourcing Head Sourcing Head

Fabric Sourcing Team General Manager
Technical Department Executives
17
Procedures:
12) During sampling, ensure vendor provides an Open Cost Sheet as per the format
provided by the PFRL for each style allocated.
13) Open cost sheet should be checked for:
a) Base and trim fabric consumption, fabric width and fabric rates,
b) Sewing trims consumption and rates,
c) Cut and make cost,
d) Value addition costs (Washing, finishing, embroidery, etc.),
e) Packaging trims costs,
f) Vendor margins,
g) Ex-factory cost and
h) Total landed cost
14) The sourcing champion should keep records of costs of new
fabrics/trims/embellishments being used in the season
15) To calculate and verify fabric consumption of complicated styles, pattern marker
can be procured from technical department.
16) The sourcing champion should provide marker sheets for helping vendor develop
complicated styles or to solve consumption issues during fit or PP sampling.
17) After bulk production order is allocated to same vendor, the sourcing champion
must use the open cost sheet provided by vendor for cost negotiation.
18) Once the original sample or reference sample along with spec-sheet reaches
vendor after allocation, cost negotiation must be initiated by sourcing team.
19) Ask the vendor to propose price he can work per garment for bulk production.
20) Based on his/her knowledge & skills, the sourcing champion must negotiate with
vendor to arrive at final pricing which must be equal to or lesser than the base price
derived to maximize margins.
21) In case a different vendor is allocated for bulk production, fresh cost negotiations
must be initiated based on same sample.
22) Before closing final cost, all terms and cost break up must be revised for
confirmation.
18
Checklist:
 Tech Pack (Final Tech pack)
 Open Cost Sheet- Created by Sourcing Team
 Open Cost Sheet- Provided by Vendor
 CAD markers for Complicated Styles
 Final cost sheet from Vendor
Related Documents:
Sr.
copy)
Tech Pack
- Fabric details
1 - Trim Details Hard copy AM, DM AM, DM
- Reference style #
- Comments
Initiation Mail to Vendor
including:
- Appointment
2 Soft copy AM, DM
date/time/venue
- Summary of styles
to be negotiated
Final Mail from Vendor for
Sourcing
3 confirmation of cost Soft copy Vendor
Team
closure
19
SOP 7. Production Follow-up
Production Follow-up
Purpose: To ensure timely delivery of merchandise in the warehouse.
Scope: These procedures applies to Souring team of Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd.
RACI matrix:,
Assistant Manager Sourcing Assistant
Manager
Consulted Informed
Sourcing Group Sourcing Head

Manager Category Head
Executive
20
Procedures:
23) Draft the time and action calendar for the season. Following factors must be
considered
a) Season launch date
b) Fabric & trims ETA
c) Product wise lead time
d) Buffer time limits
e) Hits
24) Ensure respective fabric reaches the garment vendor by following with Fabric
sourcing team for fabric dispatch and expected delivery date.
25) For solid colours, approvals must be given through lab dips whenever necessary.
Lab dips must be approved from category.
26) For prints, ask vendor to provide strike offs. Get strike offs approved from category
team.
27) Follow up with the vendor for providing fit samples. (Either with original or substitute
fabric & trims)
28) Follow up the vendor for providing fit samples in time.
29) Receive the fit sample and create an entry for it. Forward it to Technical Dept. for
approval.
30) If Fit sample is rejected, the vendor must be conveyed the rejection along with
detailed reasoning. Ask vendor to re-submit the fit sample along with all
corrections.
31) If the Fit samples are accepted, convey approval to the vendor and to proceed with
further processes.
32) The vendor must provide updates about bulk fabric receipt dates for future
reference.
33) Before bulk production starts the fabric must be lab tested. Ensure vendor get the
fabric tested for its performance. The FPT results must be approved by technical
team.
34) Ensure POs are being generated by and provided by category department. Check
POs and forward them to vendor to initiate the production process.
a) Separate POs must be provided for every warehouse or website
b) POs must be shared with vendors before production starts
35) As the bulk production initiates, the Pre-Production sample must be called for
approval. Pre-Production sample must be approved by Category, Sourcing and
Technical teams.
36) Vendor must submit trim cards for approval to sourcing team along with PP
sample.
37) Size set approval must be fetched during PPM. PPM is conducted at vendor’s
premises in presence of local QA team & vendor’s production and merchandising
teams.
38) Initial samples from production must be called for Garment Performance Testing
to lab.
39) If rejected, the report with all comments on reasons of rejection must be forwarded
to vendor. Ask for re-submission of corrected samples until GPT report comes out
positive.
21
40) If GPT for a style is approved, convey approval for bulk production to the vendor.
41) Ensure smooth and timely production by following up the vendor.
42) Inquire about production status through Daily production reports.
a) The vendor must provide DPRs throughout the production process
b) The status of daily production must be reported whenever asked
43) As the production ends ensure the shipment sample is received and approved.
44) Re-submission of shipment sample must happen along with required corrections
until corrected sample do not arrive.
Checklist:
 Tech Packs with all comments & corrections
 T & A calendar
 Fabric receipt
 Strike off / Lab dips approvals
 Fit sample approval
 FPT tests & approval
 PO generation
 PP sample approval
 GPT & approval
 DPRs
Related Documents:
Sr.
copy)
Sourcing Sourcing
1 Tech Pack Soft/Hard
Team Team
2 Order allotment mail Soft Team Lead Team Lead
Sourcing Sourcing
3 T & A calendar Soft
Team Team
4 PO Soft
Sourcing
5 DPR Soft Vendor
Team
6 Soft
emails Team Team
\
22
PART 3
Document Control
3.1 Purpose and Applicability:
The purpose of document control is to establish a uniform process for the preparation
and review of standard operating procedures for Sourcing department of Pantaloons
Fashion Retail Ltd. This SOP is applicable to the Sourcing Department only.
3.2 Summary of Method:

Standard operating procedures (SOPs) are written to describe study methods or
processes in sufficient detail so as to ensure the quality and integrity of the data, and
serve the following functions:
 Document established procedures that lead to quality data;
 Provide the technical staff with references for specific tasks;
 Construct checklists and quality controls for inspections and audits;
 Help management evaluate the adequacy of the procedures; and
 Provide an historical record of the procedures in use for a given study at a
given time, thus allowing for the reconstruction of the study at a later date.
To achieve these functions, SOPs must be written by an individual experienced in
the process to be described; the completed SOPs then must be reviewed and
approved by peer reviewers, the QA Manager, and appropriate management prior to
the use of the SOP.
3.3 Procedural Steps:

1. Identify the need for an SOP or the revision of an existing one by informing the
appropriate manager/Team Head.
2. Once the need for a particular SOP is established, it should be drafted
immediately.
3. SOPs are drafted by managerial staff, qualified to perform the procedure.
4. The SOPs should be written to describe study methods or processes in
sufficient detail so as to ensure the quality and integrity of the data or
procedure to be followed.
5. When writing SOPs, the detail used may include both procedural
requirements (exact instructions) and guidance information (general
information) on the procedure.
6. Follow office standard format for margins, font, and font size.
7. The format provide in PART 1 of this manual, must be followed and all the
headers or pointers must fulfil their definition.
3.4 Numbering SOPS:

The SOPs must be numbered sequentially based on their occurrence in the process.
The sequence must be followed which will allow easy referencing.
The sourcing team and the quality assurance team will have the responsibility and
authority to use, reuse or modify the numbering system of SOPs. None of both can
implement the changes with taking permission or authorization from the other.
23
3.5 Revising SOPS:
1. If the SOP does not accurately describe the procedure, then the SOP must be
revised. Any change in the procedure must be incorporated into the SOP.
2. Prior to any change to the SOP, management must be advised of, and approve,
the change.
3. Finalized SOPs, containing typographical errors, printing errors, e.g., wrong
page numbers or misaligned sentences) or any errors that do not affect the
scope of the procedure may be correctly immediately and reprinted. These
types of errors do not require full SOP revision, thus a revision number will not
be generated and management approval is not needed. These types of
corrections will be traceable since the historical file will reflect all corrections
including typographical errors.
4. Additions to a SOP must be done using clarification. The clarification must
remain attached with the SOPs till it is revised. The revision process will be
decided by the senior management or will happen as per the policy followed.
5. When the SOP is revised, the revision number is updated.
6. SOPs cannot be eliminated till the management feels the need of elimination.
The SOP followers must provide sufficient reason data for the need of
elimination.
7. The revised SOP must archived.
3.6 SOP Retention:

1. An historical file is created for each SOP that is approved by management and
will be maintained in the company’s archives by the QAM.
2. The historical file will consist of the original signed SOP and all subsequent
modifications thereof.
3. If a procedure is incorporated into another SOP (superseded), a copy of the
superseded version is placed in the historical file of both SOPs.
3.7 Quality assurance and quality control:

1. All SOPs are reviewed by the applicable supervisor at least every two years in
order to maintain their relevancy.
2. For those SOPs which do not require a revision, documentation attesting to that
fact must be submitted to the quality assurance manager and related changes
must be carried out in the document.
3.8 References:
 Quality assurance manual, Pantaloons Fashion Retail Ltd.
24

Creating A Standard Operating Manual For Sourcing Department of Pantaloons Fashion Retail LTD

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Creating A Standard Operating Manual For Sourcing Department of Pantaloons Fashion Retail LTD

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Creating Standard Operating

Procedure Manual for Sourcing

Department Of Fashion Management Studies

National Institute Of Fashion Technology,

I am grateful to NIFT for providing me an opportunity to do research work

Lastly, I am also obliged to my friends and colleagues for providing me

Name: Kundan Ganvir

This is to certify that project entitled “Creating Standard Operating Procedure

Manual for Sourcing Department of Pantaloons” submitted towards the partial

guidance and the result are based on research done by him.

Place: NIFT, Mumbai

I am grateful to NIFT for providing me an opportunity to do research work

Lastly, I am also obliged to my friends and colleagues for providing me

Name: Kundan Ganvir

This is to certify that project entitled “Creating Standard Operating Procedure

Manual for Sourcing Department of Pantaloons” submitted towards the partial

guidance and the result are based on research done by him.

Place: NIFT, Mumbai

Date: 17st May 2015 Name: Kundan Ganvir

1. To provide individuals who perform operations with all information required to

1.2 Importance of project

 The largest fashion (premium branded apparel) and lifestyle player

Aditya Birla Group – Beyond Business

 Works in 3,000 villages

2.2 Vision and Values

Apparel, brands and accessories

3.2 Secondary Objectives

Circular Fabric &

4.2 Responsibilities of Sourcing Department

1. Product Related responsibilities and

4.2.1 Product related responsibilities

4.2.2 Financial responsibilities

4.2.3 Vendor Related Responsibilities

4.2.4 Negotiations techniques followed by Pantaloons

 Prepare, prepare and prepare:

Wovens Denim Fabric Trims Ethnic Knits

A season’s sourcing process can be divided into two main parts:

 Time taken for each process

Some fixed rules and measures of the company are:

 Lead time for the garment production is 90 days

Getting Tech-Pack and Developing Sample for Presentation

In Presentation; Samples decided for Bulk Production

After 10 Days; Fabric booking and Trim Booking is done

After 60 Days production process starts

 To present the new innovated fabric for the coming season

Major Textile mills who work with pantaloons are-:

5.1.2 Getting Tech-Pack and Developing Sample for Presentation.

5.1.2.1 New Development

5.1.2.2 Proto Sample

5.1.2.3 Flexibility given to the department.

5.1.3 Sample Presentation

 The story of the sample

5.1.4 Samples selected for Bulk Production

 Analysing the last year sales data

 Gross weight of other components of garment.

 Fabric cost per kg.

 Fabric cost per garment.

 Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.)

 Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards, polybags, cartons, etc.)

5.1.4.2 Costing format of PANTALOONS

 Getting approval of the no of colours

Importance of lab-dip approval; its problems and process

5.1.6.1 Vendor Management