Marker

making

Presented by
Md Nasimul Hossain,
2008100400041
Md. Mahbub Ur Rahman
2008100400042
Khalid Rahman
2008100400044
Md. Mahmud Ur Rahman
2008100400045
Afnan Arefin
2008100400047
Sujon Debnath
2008100400057
Syed Moheudden Hasan
2008100400069

8th Batch
2nd Section
1st Group
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University

1
Marker
making

Acknowledgement
Logically, a study is the crystallization of the thoughts of many committed to
that by one person. In view of this, we gratefully acknowledge to different
kind of people for their valuable suggestions and guidance to conduct this
assignment effectively.
First of all we are grateful to All Mighty Allah for finishing the report on time.
We would like to thank Md. Emdad Sarker; Lecturer, South East University,
for his guidance.
Especial thanks to Mr. Moynul Haque, managing Director of Muaz uddin
textiles mills Ltd, for cordial hospitality and kind permission to visit the
every section of the mills.
We would like to thank Mr. Ohiduzjaman, cutting in charge of Muaz uddin
textiles mills Ltd, for his discussion on different sector of the garments
We discuss with different employer and workers which give us practical
knowledge about the environment of the mills. So we are also grateful to
them.

2
Marker
making
List of Content page
Marker 4
Point should be considered before marker making 4
Marker width 4
Marker length 4
Grain line 4
Position of pattern pieces 4
Cutting table 4
Production plan 4
Methods of marker making 4
Manual method 4
Marker planning with full size pattern 4
Marker with minimized pattern 5
Computerized marker making method 5
Automatic marker making 5
Interactive marker making 6
Methods of drawing and duplicating marker making 6
Drawing the marker by hand 6
Carbon duplicating method 6
Sprit duplicating method 6
Photograph or light sensitive paper method 6
Perforated marker 7
Computerized marker 7
Photographic system 7
Marking directly on fabric 7
Drawing by chalk or pencil 7
Print spray technology 7
Marker efficiency 7
Marker planner 8
Size of garments 8
Marker length 8
Marker width 8
Pattern engineering 8
Fabric characteristics 8
Marker making method 8
Constrains of marker 8
Grain line 9
Symmetry or asymmetry of fabric 9
The design and characteristics of finished garment 9
Cutting quality 9
Fabric wastage outside the marker 9
Ends of ply lose 9
Losses of fabric Ends 9
Selvedge losses 10
Purchase loss 10
Discussion 10
Conclusion 11

3
Marker
making
Marker:
Marker is the thin paper in which all necessary pattern pieces are drawn, in
such a way to minimize the fabric wastage. It gives the special instruction
for cutting. It can be done both manually and computerized method.
 In computerized method all information are in the pre fashionable
data file and an operator helps the computer to make the best choice.
 In manual method marker making is done by efficient marker maker.
 Manual method is less efficient then computerized method.

Point should be considered before marker making:

I. Marker width:
Width of marker must be smaller then fabric width by 0.5” from both sides.
II. Marker length:
Marker length is also to be smaller then fabric length by 1” from both sides.
III. Grain line:
Grain line should be parallel the warp direction or wales direction of fabric
when all patterns are laid down on the marker over the fabric layer.
IV. Position of pattern pieces:
All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when
laid down on an asymmetric fabric.
V. Cutting table:
Length of cutting table must be considered before making then marker plan.
VI. Production plan:
Garments plan should also be considered with marker plan.

 Methods of marker making:

Marker making can be done by two processes one is manual method and
another is computerized method.

Manual method:
In this process marker is making both by manually. In this process marker
making can be done with full size pattern and/or also with miniaturized
pattern. The descriptions are following:
Marker planning with full size pattern:
In this method all pattern are in full size according to stander measurement.
Comparatively hard pattern pieces placed on marker paper or directly on
fabric. After that all patterns are marked by turning different direction to
obtain more efficient marker. In this process, it is easiable to make marker,
if the marker if the marker length is short, because within short length

4
Marker
making
marker maker can see all pattern pieces and it can control. This process is
not efficient for long marker.
In this process marker table may be fixed or tilting. Vacuum system is
arranged under the table for suction.
Marker with minimized pattern:
It is also a manual process. Pantograph is used to make miniaturized
pattern in this process. The descriptions are as below
By using pantograph full size patterns minimized 1/5
part. Generally these miniaturized patterns are made up
by hard paper or plastic sheet.
Marker is planned with small pattern pieces. The length
and width of table on which marker is made according to
miniature patterns is 2m to 50cm accordingly and scaled
is made according to 1/5 ratio. Within small place, the
small pattern placed and transfer comparatively easiable.
After marker making, snaps are by camera.
A plan meter is used to measure the marker efficiency.
Marker photograph and miniature patterns are stored in a
clavinet.
Then full size marker is made on the marker paper or
fabric according to more efficient miniature marker. Many
times miniaturized pattern will fully cause of faulty
pantograph. Sometimes full size pattern method is more
efficient then miniature pattern method.
In this process:
More time consuming
High labor cost
Expensive method

Computerized marker making method:

In this process, at first production pattern is entered in the memory of
computer by using digitizing and scanning and full size production pattern
also stored in memory of computer but all pattern pieces are displayed in
miniature from at the top of screen. Generally in this process computer
screen, keyboard and light pencil is used. Then marker maker give some
instruction to the computer that marker width, check matching etc.
Computer remove all contains itself during marker making.
It also two type:
Automatic marker making:
In this process computer makes marker itself. Marker making is done
automatically by previously planned data more efficient marker is obtained

5
Marker
making
by this method. It requires more time because of computer permutation and
combination method is used to make marker.
Interactive marker making:
It is a common process, where the planer makes the marker with the help of
computer. All the pattern pieces are displayed in the miniature from at the
top of the screen. A horizontal line in the middle of screen is seen which is
called width of marker. A vertical line placed left side of horizontal line is
seen, which indicate the start of marker. Some data are placed below of
those lines such as identification of marker maker length, marker width,
marker efficiency etc. In this process a data pen and a table are used to
transfer the pattern pieces. Tablet represents the pointer unit. When marker
making is finished maker efficiency, marker width, marker length, pattern
count etc are obtained immediately in the computer screen. The finished
marker is stored in the computer memory and printer is used to print out it.
Computerized method is more efficient then manual method. In a word,
these are more advantages are obtained in computerized method. At least
2% fabric saves from wastage in computerized method.

Methods of drawing and duplicating marker making:

Marker is attached fabric lay by pin or gum. Marker works as a guide during
fabric cutting. Marker paper is cut during fabric cutting for that marker
copy is needed. These are many methods of duplicating methods of
duplicating marker making:
Drawing the marker by hand:
It is the most common method. Pattern pieces are placed on marker paper
according to make the marker. This marker can be copied. The methods of
copying are as below-
Carbon duplicating method:
In this method 6-8 markers can be copied at a time. Double sided carbon
papers are used and placed between two markers. As marking is done on
upper page by pencil, the lower page will be less proficient. It requires more
time. But 3-4 markers can be copied very easy.
Sprit duplicating method:
It is like office duplicating method. The only different is that in size of the
machine. 40-45 copies can be made from one master paper. But there may
be a problem if master copy is fully. The marker width is more then machine
width also more.
Photograph or light sensitive paper method:
A light sensitive paper is used. Ultraviolet light is passed through the light
sensitive paper to obtain marker copy. The papers are made visible by

6
Marker
making
Ammonia vapor. It is a quick method. Many makers can be copied from a
master copy by this method.
Perforated marker:
In this method all pattern pieces are placed on pattern card and pattern
picture is drawn by pencil. Small perforated marker is placed on fabric lay.
The marker is perforated by sewing/c. Then powder of French chalk is
passed over marker oil or resin used with the chalk. It requires more time.
This helps to make the marker just according to pattern pieces.
Computerized marker:
When marker planning is finished, it is stored in memory of computer and
at any time computer can display the marker. Full size marker is obtained if
plotter is big. And mini size marker is obtaining if plotter is small. The
printed version can be achieved by plotter machine attached to the
computer.
Photographic system:
In this method, pattern pieces are placed other light sensitive paper. Ultra
violet light is passed through the paper. And papers are made visible by
Ammonia vapor. Perforated code numbers are written on the marker
according to the number of different patterns. Though the primary cost is
high, the manufacturing cost and time, labor cost is less.

Marking directly on fabric:

Drawing by chalk or pencil:
In this method marker is drawn directly on fabric. According to marker plan
pattern pieces are directly placed on the fabric then chalk is made by pipe
clay or wax or fluorescent. In requires more time and highly skilled planer. It
is an ancient method. It is less use in garments industry but more use in
tailoring.
Print spray technology:
This process is used for check fabric. All pattern pieces placed on fabric lay
then print is being sprayed by spray m/c. the space which is covered by
pattern is not colored. This process is costly. This process is applied less
absorbency fabric.

Marker efficiency:
The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker
plan. If the marker efficiency is high the fabric wastage will be less. Fabric
price is half of total price of garments. So 1% marker efficiency means that
profit include with total profit. For that increasing marker efficiency is more
important. Marker efficiency cab be calculate by following formula-

7
Marker
making
Area of all pattern in the marker plan
Marker efficiency= ∗ 100
Total area in the marker plan
Factor related to marker efficiency are as below:
Marker planner:
Marker efficiency depends upon the attentiveness, honesty, experience,
sincerity, trial and technological knowledge of marker planer. The more
maker being made for a marker the more probability to get marker
efficiency.
Size of garments:
The more the numbers of pattern size are included, the more possibility to
get more efficient for comparatively small size garments for having the small
components. It there is less number of small components, then marker will
be less efficient.
Marker length:
The length of marker is related with various factors. If Higher the marker
length, higher the efficiency. It can also help to increase the production of
cutting room. But a planer is not able to plan the marker easily if the
marker is too long.
Marker width:
It the marker width is more it is easier to plan, that is why marker
increases.
Pattern engineering:
Marker efficiency can be increased by changing the pattern according to the
rule. Such as a big component can be dividing into two parts. This will help
to save the fabric wastages.
Fabric characteristics:
Symmetric fabrics are those which are similar to all direction. And
asymmetric fabrics are those which are not similar to all directions. Marker
efficiency is good in symmetrical fabric on the other hand; marker efficient
will be less for asymmetrical fabric.
Marker making method:
There are two methods to make a marker one is manual and another is
computerized method. Computerized method is more efficient when it is
done interactively varies method to method to method. Sometimes skilled
operator can make more efficient marker then computer.

Constrains of marker:
At first a marker maker placed big patterns on marker paper. Then small
pattern are placed in the gap of the big patterns to minimize the fabric
wastages. After that pattern pieces are moved in various directions to

8
Marker
making
increase the maker efficiency. These jobs are not so easy. There are many
problems behind this. They are as follows-
Grain line:
Pattern pieces carry a grain line called grain line. It instructs the warp
direction. The grain line must be parallel to the warp or wales. On the basic
of design sometimes pattern pieces are placed in 45˚ angle. It marker
planner lays down a pattern outside the stated rules for grain lines. Then
the finished garment will not hang and drape correctly when worn. It
restricts the freedom of marker planner.
Symmetry or asymmetry of fabric:
The fabrics which retain the same appearance after turning it by 180˚ are
symmetric fabric. But asymmetric fabrics are not same appearance.
Example of asymmetric fabric is pile fabric, which is brushed in one
direction and shows different optical behavior. The marker should be
planned in such a way that it is in accordance with symmetry of the fabric.
All pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid
on an asymmetric fabric
The design and characteristics of finished garment:
It a vertical stripe does not show complete mirror images to each other. In
this case the pattern pieces should be placed on checks or stripes in such a
way that the design matches when sewing up.
Cutting quality:
Maximum time knife blade is used to separate the pattern pieces. So marker
should be made in proper care, so that it can be cut easily by knife blade.

Fabric wastage outside the marker:

Generally highest uses of marker depend on marker efficiency. But some
fabric wastages are happened which are the out of control of marker plan.
Descriptions are as below, which are the causes of fabric losses
Ends of ply lose:
Some allowances are needed in the end of each pieces of fabric during fabric
cutting because of limitation of machines which are used to fabric
extensibility and fabric spreading. Usually 2” in each end and on each ply 4”
wastage are happened. This wastage varies with the durability of the fabric.
This wastage can be reduced by observing and controlling carefully of how
much allowance need for various fabric.
Moreover, if marker length is long, this type of wastages wills less, other
hand if marker length is short this type of wastages will high.
Losses of fabric Ends:
Usually fabric comes in roll from in a garments industry. There are the
limitations of fabric length in case roll. Fabric lay is made on the basic of

9
Marker
making
marker length. Most of the time, it is seen that fabric length is high or less
then multiple of lay length. For that, splicing is done in the end of fabric of
each roll or end remnant of fabric roll is separated by cutting during fabric
spreading. This splicing or remaining fabric at the end of the roll increases
the wastages which is the out of control of marker plan. This type of
wastages can not protect but can be minimize. This can be minimizing by
taking bigger rolls. Splicing place must be indicated and the remaining
portion should be reduced to minimize the fabric loss etc.
Selvedge losses:
Each fabric has two selvedges along width. Most of the time we do not
placed pattern components over the selvedges. Thus approximately 3%
fabrics are wasted along width. If the fabric is very expensive and extensive,
we can save some fabric by wasting 2% along width. The amount of fabric
wide to be used depends on quality of selvedge and alignment of selvedge. If
fabric width is high this type of wastages will be less.
Purchase loss:
Fabric is bought by length. But fabric length is identified by fabric
manufacture and supplier on fabric roll. Sometime less fabric is wound roll.
So before purchasing the length should be measured and fabric should be
sourced only from the reputed manufacturer.

Discussion
Without practical knowledge education cannot be effective. So the
importance of the practical visit as well as mill visit is beyond discussion.
First of all we want to say with great regret that through garment industry is
a blooming sector for Bangladesh which can boost up our economy but
there lies deficiency in using technology.
It is mentioned that our visited textile mills is a composite factory having
garments, knitting and dyeing section but there are only three textile
engineer and the others are non technical person. That’s why they use
manual process for marker making, fabric spreading and fabric cutting will
be done. They use a technology to reduce the wastage of fabric that is to
maintain the fabric width according to the cutting table width. It is
mentioned the computerized marker making is not effective for the knit
project as well as the weaving project.

10
Marker
making
Conclusion:
Marker is a thin paper but it is not just a thin paper. Marker paper contains
all necessary pattern pieces but it is not just contains all necessary pattern
pieces. Its value is not need to say how much. It is so much important in a
garments industry or makes garments. It save large amount of money. This
money is the main thing of a garment industry. So marker is more
important.
From this assignment we have known about
Marker
Marker efficiency
How marker efficiency increases
Constrains of marker
Methods of marker
Duplicating methods of marker
Some fabric wastages are happened which is
the out side of marker plan.
These above things are more valuable things and this thing is helpful
for us if we will work in a garments industry.

11