(From www.aconcaguaexpeditions.com)
The first attempts to reach the summit of mount Aconcagua, Argentina, were made by Paul Güssfeldt, a German
explorer who discovered the mountain and traced for the first time the route up to 6560 meters but had to descend in
the middle of a hurricane.
Fourteen years later, the englishman Edward Fitz Gerald leds a European team of nine men, together with the Swiss
Matthias Zurbriggen as chief guide. Zurbriggen himself on January 14, 1897 reached the summit of mount
Aconcagua (6962 meters above sea level). At that time there were no shelters, maps or traced routes, just the
immensity of the mountain, the cold, the wind and altitude sickness.
On December 23, 1896 the tireless expedition marked its beginnings in the middle of a hustle, going up and down,
but finally reaching the summit. After several tries, on the 14th, after a hypothetical rest Fitz Gerald and Zurbriggen
reached what would become the first of all summits. At 6700 meters above sea level Fitz Gerald had to give up the
ascent and Matthias Zurbriggen continued and completed the epic adventure that had begun a few days before.
The rest of the team went back to Puente del Inca to get ready for a new try. On February 13 only three left and that
is where Fitz Gerald had to give up again, and on that same day, Lanti and Vines, members of the initial expedition,
continued at their own pace and were the second to reach the summit of the Colossus.
Geology
The Colossus of America has an altitude of 6962 meters above sea level due to its volcanic structure. It is said to be
a Paleo-volcano for its net content.
It is a volcanic separated from its magma chamber. Its incredible height can only be explained by the fact that it was
active up to at least 9,5 million years ago, according to the dating of the vulcanites of its summit.
In the official season of Aconcagua Park (which generally goes from November 15 through March 15 each year)
there is free medical assistance and prevention service.
It is located in the center of Plaza de Mulas. It is advisable to go daily for general checks, oxygen saturation in blood
or any doubts that might come up. In Plaza Argentina this service is offered only in the high season (December 15-
January 31 each year).
In Aconcagua, as in any mountain this size, there is a rescue team in charge of helping with any risky situation
related to a medical emergency or an evacuation. This task is performed by the rescue team of the Mendoza Police
Department. Its goal is to safeguard the lives of the visitors on the Normal Route from Plaza de Mulas to the summit
and to take them to the medical service of the Administration of Natural Resources from where the evacuation is
coordinated to the park exit.
The routes on the South wall and on the Polish Glacier are not included in the regular coverage of the patrols since
they are considered high risk; therefore, those climbers who choose them must take all the necessary precautions in
case of an emergency. Anyway, the park rangers constantly monitor what is happening on these routes in VHF, 24
hours a day.
Many people participate in the rescue operations such as park rangers, guides and other climbers as patrol assistants,
due to the danger of descending a sick person from the altitude camps, mainly due to the geography of this park and
the long distances between the different camps. Climbers must be aware that even if there is a rescue team, they
should not take unnecessary risks beyond their strength. Help may take several hours to arrive as long as they
receive the corresponding warning.
This is why we recommend maximum care and caution to avoid problems.
Nobody has the right to risk his life and, even less, that of the members of the rescue team.
Permanently monitoring for emergencies: radio frequency 142.8 MHZ FM.
Since 1990 Aconcagua Park has had a park ranger service which controls the protected area and helps the visiting
climbers. This service is present in all the base camps and often in the ascent routes.
It is in charge of:
Keeping the order
Checking cleanliness
Controlling the camps
helping and informing climbers
Controlling the service providers (in case of problems or complaints report immediately)
Exercising power of police inside the park
Coordinating evacuations *
Checking admission permits (in Horcones and Punta de Vacas)
Controlling waste collection (of individuals and service providers)
These are some of the duties, among other.
* Together with the medical service and the rescue patrol to the park exit. Evacuations will be coordinated by the
medical staff in charge of emergencies, by the means they consider necessary or which are available (mules,
helicopters, ambulance).
Besides, when the park ranger or physician judge that the climbers' equipment or physical conditions are poor, they
will be advised in writing not to ascend.
The responsibility for control and watch only includes from the park entrance to the base camps (4300 meters above
sea level). Beyond that altitude, they perform only evacuation and cleaning duties.
For all these tasks, the park rangers have an adequate equipment and modern communication systems which allow
them permanent radio coverage all over the park in VHF to prevent emergencies. The radio frequency is 142.8
MHZ FM.
The park administration is located in Horcones and from there the work of the different camps is coordinated,
mainly those in which the park rangers are always present such as Confluencia, Plaza de Mulas, Nido de Cóndores,
Punta de Vacas, Pampa de Leñas and Plaza Argentina.
In all park ranger or service provider camps there are restrooms. Their use is mandatory, and those visitors who
violate this regulation will be fined U$S 100 which will have to be paid immediately. In case the person does not
have the required cash, his/her equipment will be retained until the fine is paid.
All campers must have a sanitary service, either supplied by the service provider or by the ecological restrooms that
can be rented in the park.
Waste Control
Each visitor to the park will be supplied with a numbered garbage bag upon entrance, which will have to be handed
in to the park rangers on the way out with the corresponding trash.
It should be born in mind that non-compliance with this regulation carries a fine of U$S 100 which will have to be
paid immediately.
Many service providers take responsibility for bringing down garbage themselves, and in this case they sign and
stamp the admission permit of each customer assuming that responsibility.
Climbing Routes
(from www.aconcagua.com)
Normal Route
Leaving Plaza de Mulas you follow the route indicated in the accompanying chart. It is advisable to
make a first stage and set up a base camp at the top part of the "Portezuelo del Manso" (5,200 m). It is a
good practice to stay at the base camp for a couple of days for a proper acclimatation. The area is
characterized by a great number of rocks which allow for well-protected camps. Depending on
snowfall intensity during the winter time, in some seasons there may form a small lake which
provides the necessary water supply for expeditions. The "Antartida Argentina" refuge (5,500 m) is no
longer used by climbers since it now lies way off the route.
From "Portezuelo del Manso" or Camp 1, climbing gently up easy alluvium paths, you reach refuges
"Plantamura", "Libertad" and "Berlin" (6,000 m) . At this altitude many expedition also stay for a couple of
days for acclimatation. From this point two alternative routes are possible: the first one is to scale all
the way up to the summit, an exhausting climb in itself. The second one is to reach refuge
"Independencia" (6,500 m) and from there, on the following day, go up to the top. The first alternative is
the most usual, but you are very likely to be caught by the darkness of night on the way down.
Whereas the second one, though implying shorter journeys, has the disadvantage that it may
become very rough to stay overnight at such altitudes, matters being aggravated by the fact that the
refuge is half in ruins.
In any case, and due to the numerous expeditions trying to reach the top week after week, the use of
tents is more than necessary, since all the refuges are like small bivouacs with capacity for 3 or 4
people. Coming down there is a natural predisposition to follow the route of the Gran Acarreo, but this
way will invariably deviate you from the refuges. There is no natural protection against eventual
storms and bad weather in this route. If there is a tempest, it is suicidal to go down following the way
of the Gran Acarreo, hoping you can do it more rapidly. We know by experience that there is no
natural defense where you can wait under protection until fury of the storm has passed. Both
ascending and descending it is always prudent to follow the rock of the North West where you will
find the refuges.
If physical conditions are good in the ascension, you can calculate 20-40% less time for the descent.
If you are very tired after the ascension, this calculation is not helpful because at these heights
recovery is not possible. So you need more Or less the same time for coming down as you used for
ascent. This northern route does not present technical difficulties, but you must not forget storms of
an unbelievale force and altitude "puna". You must observe all the serious rules of mountain safety .
Otherwise, any mistake can be fatal and form of suicide.
South Face – (1-Sun Line 2-Eslovenian 82 3-Polish variant 4-French variant 5-French 6-7 Upper and lower Argentines variant 8-Messner
variant 9-Japanese variant 10-Russian roulette 11-Fonrouge/Schonberger 12-French direct 13-Eslovenian 86 14- Argentine route)
East Face - (16-Argentine Route 17-Polish Glacier-18 Polish variant 19-Polish Glacier direct 20-Spanish variant)
North West – (25-Normal Route 26- Mendocinian Guides Route 28- West Face 30- Esteban Escaiola route)
Northwest Face – (29-Mendocinian Route (Tapia) 31-Ibanez/Grajales/Marmillod 32-Zabaleta variant 33-Mendocinos Variant)
Northwest Face – (33-Mendocinos Variant, 26-Sun Line)
(From - www.aconcaguaexpeditions.com)
Aconcagua - Since Aconcagua is a large mountain, it has different routes with several levels of difficulty. It has
some regular routes for people who do not have much experience, and others which only a few people in the world
have been able to climb. These routes are:
1- Sun Line: it was climbed in 1988 by Slavko Sveticic and Milan Romih. It goes along the South edge from
Portillo del Sargento Mas, going past mount Piramidal; difficulty: ED, VII, A3, 90°.
2-Yugoslavian or Slovenian: climbed in 1982, it goes toward the South summit by the meridional mixed pillar. It
can only be climbed in the first and last hours of the day.
3-Polish Variant: climbed in 1987, it is the most difficult route to the summit to date, with an entrance of 1000
meters (V, 90°), different from the meridional spur by the Central route.
4- Yugoslavian or Slovenian Variant: it joins the French variants in the big towers. It was climbed in 1982.
5-French La Pargot Route: the first route on the wall, it goes along the central spur. Camps can be set up at 4900,
5800, 6400 and 6700 meters above sea level. It was climbed in 1985.
6-Lower Argentinian Variant: the entrance is slightly more straight than the French variant, but it is still a route. It
was climbed in February 1992.
7-Upper Argentinian Variant: opened in the same ascent as the previous one, it leaves Messner in a V+ spur.
8-Messner Exit Variant: from glacier superior it goes left on a 55° gradient toward a waterway between both
summits on the Guanaco edge. There are camps at 5200 and 6100 meters above sea level.
9-Japanese Variant: it starts from the French variant behind glacier Superior. It heads to the North summit through
the spur to the right. The rock is poor and the route badly marked. There are camps at 5200 and 6100 meters above
sea level. It was undertaken for the first time by a Japanese climber.
10-The Russian Roulette: it assaults the Seracs from the front (95°) and the middle glacier. It joins the central
route.
11-Central Route or Fonrouge/Schonberger: climbed by the Argentine José Fonrouge, it goes all the way through
the middle glacier and joins the French route before a barrier of Seracs. There are camps at 6290, 6400 and 6800
meters above sea level. It is the easiest route on this wall, but the most dangerous too due to slides from glacier
Superior.
12-French Direct Route: first climbed in 1985, it leaves from the central route and takes the Southeast spur. It joins
the Argentine route at about 6000 meters in glacier Superior.
13-Slovenian Route: it is a variant of the Pasic Route on ice (90°) and VI on rock. In 1993, the Argentine A. Randis
undertook this route for the first time. It represents a variant of the Central route going to the left.
14-Argentine or Pasic Route: climbed in 1966, it is the longest and least difficult on this wall. There are camps at
4800, 5400, 6000 y 6400 meters above sea level. The Seracs join the Relinchos glacier, also called Pasic Glacier,
with glacier Superior.
15-Southeast Edge: from Plaza Argentina it goes to Pasic glacier and takes the East edge to join the route of the
East glacier. From Plaza Francia, it is necessary to go across Saddle Relinchos. It was first climbed in 1966.
16-Argentine Route, or Route of the East glacier: it was climbed in 1978, and goes all the way through the East
glacier. The glacier does not exceed 50° and joins the East ridge. Here starts a rotten rock wall, 400 meters high with
an initial exposed first stretch of V+.
17-Polish Glacier: it goes along the Polish Glacier, with a 40° gradient, and today it can be climbed from Nido de
Cóndores in one day. It is the pearl for all skiers.
18-Polacos Variant: it goes through the center of the glacier, dodging the Seracs and reaching the East ridge.
19-Direct Route to the Polacos Variant: it was climbed in 1961. It goes along the left margin of the glacier with
similar difficulties to the original route.
20- Altoaragonesa Variant: it was climbed in 1995. These are corridors that leave the Polish Glacier and have a
gradient of 75° and IV+ passes. After a long flanking, it joins the direct route at 6500 meters above sea level.
Aconcagua - North Wall:
21-False Polacos Route: it is a long diagonal route from 5900 meters above sea level, searching for the Normal
Route between Piedras Blancas and Independencia. It can be undertaken to descend since it is an easy road.
22-Route from Nido de Cóndores to Polacos: it can be climbed almost as one wishes, also in two directions.
23-From Berlín to Polacos: using this route, it is possible to join the direct Polacos route before the bottleneck.
24-North wall: climbed in 1986, it is easy from Berlín, but it is difficult to find the way between corridors and little
towers.
25-Normal, Northwest: the first route of on the mountain and the most used, it was climbed in 1897 by Matthias
Zurbriggen.
26-Direct: climbed in 1991. From Canada camp it goes to the north spur of the West wall, about 650 meters from
the Normal Route. Rocky stretch (III) at 5600 meters above sea level and 50° corridor. It finishes at the entrance of
the gully.
27-Mendoza Guides Route: climbed in 1991, it goes to the right of the Normal Route and to the left of the
Southeast edge. Camps are to be found at 5150 and 5750 meters above sea level.
28-West Edge: it starts from the Acarreo to join the Great Acarreo. It is located at the right of the Antártida shelter.
There passages of bad rock up to the South summit and a camp at 5200 meters above sea level.
29-Mendocinian Route or Tapia de Felipe Route: climbed in1988, it starts from the West edge and goes to the
beginning of Esteban Escaiola corridor. It leaves it to the left and faces almost in the vertical side of the summit a
dangerous and narrow canal with rock barriers and ice cascades. It can also be taken from Canada and it has three
camps.
30-Esteban Escaiola Route: climbed in 1991. It is necessary to climb a cliff to the South of Plaza de Mulas and
then a culoir that goes to the upper steps on the wall and to the right towards the South summit. There is a camp at
4800 meters above sea level.
31-Southwest Ridge, Ibáñez/Grajales/Marmillod Route: climbed in 1953, from the Acarreo it goes to the key
canal of the West wall, which goes along several gullies to two vertical towers first and then with flankings to the
left until it reaches Grajales culoir which ends in the South ridge.
32-Southwest EdgeVariant or Zabaleta Variant: instead of the gully next to mount Piramidal under the
Marmillod towers, this variant goes beyond one of the rotten rock steps up to a platform to end in Grajales couloir.
There are four camps at 5300, 5500, 6400 meters above sea level and another one between the second and the third
at an unknown altitude.
33-Mendocinian Route, Mendocinian Variant: climbed in 1982, it goes along the South edge from Sargento Mas
ravine and the summit of mount Piramidal. To take the edge it makes a flanking and then an aerial spur. Then it
takes the Grajales couloir and requires rappelling from mount Piramidal.
Aconcagua via Normal route / Horcones valley
Header Name Position Altitude (From the GPS, not accurate)
Waypoint Puente del Inca S32 49.478 W69 54.572 8928 ft
Waypoint Vacas Trailhead S32 51.042 W69 45.653 7794 ft
Waypoint Water S32 45.582 W69 48.320 9298ft
Waypoint Water S32 45.388 W69 48.441 9357 ft
Waypoint Las Lenas (newer site) S32 45.119 W69 48.454
Waypoint Bridge S32 44.677 W69 48.540 9514 ft
Waypoint 1st view of Aconcagua S32.38.234 W 69 50.295
Waypoint Old Case Piedre camp S32 38.088 W 69 50.291
Waypoint Cross River S32 38.013 W69 50.437 10702 ft
Waypoint Water S32 38.145 W69 51.709 11079 ft
Waypoint Big Hill S32 38.213 W69 51.863 11190 ft
Waypoint Cross River 2 S32 38.329 W69 52.322 11661 ft
Waypoint Plaza Argentina Base Camp S32 38.749 W 69 56.683
Waypoint Camp 1 (16,020 ft) S32.38.300 W 69 58.676
There is water around and big rocks that protect the placing of tents. "Plaza de Mulas" is an
excellent place for acclimatization. From "Plaza de Mulas" it is possible to reach in a single day (or
two) the neighbouring peaks, all over 5000mts high. The glaciar "Horcones Superior" is also a
great place to visit and climb in its great gendarme and ice towers. The peak "Cuervo" (5450 mts.)
is a valued alpinistic objetive. Its sides offer all kind of possibilities. From simple ascension to difficult
climbs through the south walls. This wall has an unevenness of about 800 ms. Its direct way opened
in 1986 by the swiss F. Mariani and R Notaris, has rope lengths or extreme difficulty. It is easy to
reach "Plaza de Mulas" since there is a clear marked by the permanent transit of mountaineers and
live stock. The river is crossed through bridges. The distance from "Puente Del Inca" (2700mts.) is
about 36 km and the difference in height is 1500 mts. It is advisable to do the journeys in two
days.
Confluencia
It is an advisable site to spend the first night walk in the approximation to the base camping areas of
"Plaza de Mulas" or "Plaza Francia".
The site has drinkable water, and there is room for camping and forester service. It is around 3100
mts height. It is there where "Horcones Superior" and Inferior river are joined.
You get there from "Laguna de los Horcones" in approximately four hours march.
Services: Park Rangers - Helicopter
Plaza Argentina
It is located at 4100 mts and it is a good place for camping. In order to reach these place, the
starting point is "Punta de Vacas" (2400 mts.) and them you have to go north of "de las Vacas"
river. There is water and firewood in all the deep pass, the path is well marked. Over the left
orografic margin of "de las Vacas" river, at 15 km, the "casa de las Leñas" is located (2350 mts.).
You can cross " de las vacas" river 31 km from "Punta de Vacas". Finally, and over the left margin of
the same river, small shelter "casa de Piedras" (3060 m) is located, 47 km from the starting
point.Just in front of the mouth of "de los relinchos" river. This little shelter is mimetized with the
view an it is difficult to be found. In this place you can find water. From the surraoundings of "casa
de Piedras", you must leave "de las vacas" river and continue to the west along "rio de los
relinchos". There the pendent grows and several hard slopes appear. Finally you will acceed to a flat
lowland (3800mts.). It is convenient to continue climbing cross the river (with high margins) an
continue until the big very characteristic "square rock" around 20 mts high. Inmediatly after that
you must go down a few meters to a big esplanade wich is at the mercy of the winds. That place has
water an is apropiate for camping called "Plaza Argentina" (4100 mts.). The distance from "Punta
de Vacas" is around 60 km there is a difference of 2000 of height, is convenient to complete the
journey in a three day march.
Day 17: Extra day for contingencies that may prevent the normal development of the program.
Day 18: Extra day for contingencies that may prevent the normal development of the program.
Mules
Each mule can only take 60 kilos (two 30 kilo bags balanced). So each duffle you bring should not exceed 30 kilos.
As a rule clients are allowed 30 kilos including their food. Not including tents and communal gear. You will be
charged two days in and one day back for the walk in in the normal route. For the walk out, it will depend on
whether you hire mules who just brought gear in or if they came in empty just for you. Try to negotiate in advance
for dropoff and pickup. Radios are useful here and the Rangers can be of great help.
For the Polish side you will be charged 3 days in and one to two days out for the approach and its the same story for
the walk out as on the normal route.
Mule prices can vary but it works to about 150 USD perday for and mule driver and two mules (120 kilos). This is
only a guide things change depending on how desperate you are and availability, size of group. Eight people would
use 4 mules (2x30 = 60 kilos per mule) plus probably 2 mules (2x60 kilos of communal gear). You would probably
have three muleteers.
Marketing Office
Avda Borgoño # 23730 Concon Viña del Mar
Phone / fax: 56-32-817366
Rudy Parra
E-mail: rudy@lanet.com.ar or aconcagua@rudyparra.com
Daniel Alessio
Casilla de Correos 33, 5505 Mendoza, Fax: 54-61-962201, E-mail: alessio@lanet.losandes.com.ar, Home phone#
054-261-4962201.
Daniel Lopez
Has a food tent set-up at plaza argentina
http://ar.geocities.com/daniellopezexpeditions/
email: aconca20@yahoo.com or hotmail.com
phone/fax 54 261 4456509
Climate Considerations
The atmospheric pressure diminishes with the altitude following an exponential relationship. At sea level the pressure corresponds to 1
atmosphere or 760 mm of Hg. Its value is half of this at 5500 meters and up at the 7000 meters of the peak of Aconcagua, it is at 308 mm of Hg.
The humidity of the air diminishes with the altitude but with a higher slope than the atmospheric pressure. From the norm of 4000 meters, when
the atmospheric pressure is two thirds that of sea level, the humidity only represents a quarter of its value at sea level:
-0°C with wind of 40 km/h = -15°C. + 7.5°C with wind of 64 km/h = -7.5°C
-25°C with wind of 64 km/h = -60°C, danger of exposed areas freezing in 30 minutes
+20°C in 1 kg of air contains 150 grams of water, while at -20°C there is only 7.8 grams.
The freezing affect of the wind is known and terrible, it is enough to remember the following values of the wind chill factor
7.5°C with wind of 64 km/h = -30°C, danger of exposed areas freezing in one hour
The peak of Aconcagua can be a sweet and complacent woman if the goddess of the sun (Febo) shines and the god of the wind (Eolo) sleeps,
but when the furies of the gods of the wind are unleashed and the dragons of the clouds devour the sky, the peak turns into a terrifying and cold
witch. Only when you have seen the two completely different sides of this mountain and its special climate, can you really love and understand it
completely.
The Central Argentine Andes and Mt. Aconcagua in particular receive the humidity of the winds that come from the anticyclonic centers of the
Pacific Ocean. The climatic phenomenon known as the Zonda wind has an explanation similar to the Fohn of Europe
The anticyclones of the Pacific emit humid winds that blow towards the East, that is to say, winds of the West. These winds rise, and as they crash
agains the mountain range mass, get cold and precipitate their humidity in the form of snow in the high peaks. Later, the dried air masses descend
over the eastern flank of the mountain range, heating progressively (adiabatically).
This movement of air coming from the Pacific is the principal cause of the snow and wind storms that are unleashed on Aconcagua. But electric
storms also exist, and form due to a micro climate of the zone, and are particularly terrible. These electric storms brew exclusively during the
summer and are not to be underestimated. All of the North West flank of the mountain, as well as the peak and the crests, are exposed if lightning
bolts are produced. In this mountain, due to its great size, another special phenomenon takes place . Strong winds from the West sometimes blow
in the high altitudes, affecting the high part of the mountain (5500 meters and above), forming a big mushroom or lentil shaped cloud. Even in
good weather, Plaza de Mulas, the presence of the mushroom is an unmistakable sign of strong wind and precipitation in the altitude. Getting inside
this mushroom can have a fatal result. When the next formation is observed it is necessary to abandon the upper part of the mountain.
As far as the temperature registered in summer is concerned , you have to consider that during the night (even in good weather) above 5000
meters, negative 20 degrees Celsius is common. At the summit it is frequent to register negative 30 degrees Celsius. During bad weather
or in the presence of air masses coming from the South, in Mule Plaza (Plaza de Mulas) it is frequent to see temperatures of mimus 18 degrees
Celsius, while in the upper part of the mountain negative 25 Celsius is not too strange. During the majority of the days and nights the
temperatures aren't as rigorous. It is possible to wear a bathing suit around noontime at the base camp (4200 meters) or to stay at the peak at the
same time of day, with only a thick shirt or a light anorak.
These great temperature variations oblige the mountaineer to always be prepared. During the winter the zone is heavily covered with snow, and the
winds are always violent and constant. The temperature rarely exceeds 0 degrees Celsius. In the shadowy places it is always well below zero.
Climbing Aconcagua in the winter season is a great test of psycho-physical performance, and much experience and high quality equipment are a
necessity.
The weather and Forecast in Punta de Vacas (60 Kms. of Base Camp) (http://www.meteofa.mil.ar/?
mod=pron&id=4&provincia=Mendoza&ciudad=Punta%20de%20Vacas)
The weather and forecast in Aconcagua´s base Camp Plaza de Mulas (http://www.aconcagua.com/english/information/i-sitios/weather1.htm)
In the mountain the exposure to the whims of the atmosphere is maximized. Besides pathological problems derived from altitude and the cold,
weather is usually the key factor to achieve or not the expedition's objectives. Although mountain meteorology is very complicated and difficult
to forecast , we both carry recent reports and try to obtain our own data, that correctly interpreted, will allow us to forecast the weather and to
design our tactics. For that reason, any serious expedition (and even more the commercial ones!) must have both a clear and scientific weather
forecast technique and a flexible, easy to modify itinerary depending on forecast, without affecting high priority acclimatization tactics.
Forecast procedure should not be excessively complicated, but limited to recognize and evaluate the indications of the local phenomena, that in the
Aconcagua are reduced almost exclusively to storms coming from the Pacific cyclonic systems.
Storm in the Aconcagua
Amongst the different types of storms studied by meteorology, typical storms in the Aconcagua are generated by the arrival of low pressure
systems called "vaguadas" that move eastwards f rom the Pacific Ocean. Meteorology usually predicts these systems by the passage of a warm
front (valuable for forecast) that preceeds a cold one (the actual storm occurrence). But in the Aconcagua, given the high altitude and the
predominantly radiative character of the temperature, the warm front passage is difficult to detect unless standardized meteorological procedures
are performed, and these are far for the mountaineers to achieve. And in addition, the Andes mountain range dividing western marine and eastern
continental climate, generates an orographic Fohen type (same as the Chinook) effect known regionally as Zonda.
This process produces three events with forecasting utility: a "vaguada" that moves to the East and can be detected in remote stations of the
Pacific Ocean, precipitations in Chile windwards of the Andes, and local alterations of barometric pressure and cloudiness.
Regional Forecasting
Weather forecast is classically based on four phenomena: cloudiness, barometric pressure, intensity of wind and wind direction. Wind data
will be very affected in the Aconcagua by orography and differential exposure of the camp sites; our forecast will be based on both regional official
information and local variations of pressure and their interpretation under observation of cloudiness.
Regional official informations that usually preceeds a bad weather situation are, in occurrence order: a low pressure in the Chilean oceanic islands
(Easter, 3500 km -2000 nmi- West of the coast and 800 km -450 nmi- North; and Juan Fernández or Robinson Crusoe, 700 km at West of the coast
-400 nmi- and 100 km -60 nmi- South), and rain in Santiago. Unfortunately Chilean radio broadcast does not report technical data like pressure
values, but present weather at the cities (good, sunny, storm, cloudy, rainy, etc.) and a brief forecast for the rest of the day or the next day. In the
Aconcagua only Chilean broadcasts are listened to , mainly above the 5000 m -16,500'-. We must pay attention and register the following events
for Santiago and the V Region:
Local Forecasting
Regional information might be insufficient since the mountain is able to generate its own climatic condition, with local phenomena that may not be
forecasted at a greater scale.
First of all, we can empirically observe typical cloudy phenomena, well known by guides and rangers.
Cloudiness usually begins with small cumuli at the south (watching from Plaza de Mulas downwards the Horcones valley, on Plomo and Juncal
range), or at the northwest (looking from Plaza de Mulas to the left of Cuerno), that grow in size every hour. Under a process of worsening weather,
these clouds begin to appear between 2 and 4 pm, it is completely cloudy in the evening and usually it may become clear after sunset. First clouds
appear earlier each day, and bad weather is installed when clouds appear between 10 am and 12.
Lensed stratocumuli and hooked cirrus (claws) are another kind of clouds that foretells bad weather, but they generally indicate a Zonda
phenomenon, normally forecasted through Santiago or Juan Fernandez info. A big lensed stratocumulus placed as a hat or "mushroom " on the
summit is usually the confirmation that bad weather has arrived, although if that cloud appears at dusk and if there are no other indicators for bad
weather, it might probably vanish at dawn.
If a remarkable, growing accumulation of very sharpened or globulose white alto-cumuli exists, usually coming from the West, from the North and
the Northeast on the zone of Tambillo mount, they can be seen from altitude camps or on summit ascent. Should this happen before 5 pm, it can
cause local bad weather.
Pressure reduces:
Slowly (1 to 2 hPa/day): bad weather coming, confirmed if, in addition, temperature rises slowly (1 to 2ºC/day, 2 to 4ºF/day) and/or sheepped
sky (cirrocumulus) is observed.
Abruptly (3 to 4 hPa/day): immediate and intense bad weather, confirmed if, in addition, temperature descends abruptly (3 to 4ºC/day, 5 to
7ºF/day).
Oscillating: long bad weather.
Pressure grows:
Slowly: good weather, confirmed if in addition temperature descends slowly and sky is clear or with medium and isolated cumulus. If increase
starts from a normal pressure (between 599 and 601 hPa for Plaza de Mulas), good weather will last a period of time equivalent to the time
pressure took in reaching its maximum value.
Abruptly: temporary improvement, confirmed if in addition temperature descends abruptly; or unstable weather.
Oscillating: improvement in the weather will be delayed.
Sites Z (ft) k
Confluencia 10,820 0.883
Plaza de Mulas 13,980 1.000
Plaza Canadá 16,110 1.090
Cambio de Pendiente 17,060 1.133
Nido de Cóndores 17,650 1.161
Berlín 18,960 1.225
Permits
When you apply for your permit in Mendoza you will get a ´banking slip´ from the park office, then
go to a nearby "Locatario" to pay your permit fee. Then you will return to the park office and get your
´climbing permit´.The whole process takes one or two hours now, more with high season line ups.
HIGH SEASON: From 15th December of year 2008 to 31st January 2009, a permit costs:
Climbing USD$ 500-20 days
Long Trekking USD$ 110 -7 days
Short Trekking USD$ 60-3 days
MEDIUM SEASON: From 01-Dec to 14-Dec, 2008, and from 01-Feb to 20-Feb, 2009 a permit costs:
Climbing USD$ 330-20 days
Long Trekking USD$ 80-7 days
Short Trekking USD$ 50-3 days
LOW SEASON: From November 15th to November 30th 2008 and from February 21st to March 15th
2009
Climbing USD$ 170-20 days
Long Trekking USD$ 80-7 days
Short Trekking USD$ 50-3 days
Validity of the permits (as from the date of access to the Park) Validity of the permits Climbing 20
days. Long Trekking 7 days Short Trekking 3 days.
Proceeds from the duties are alloted (supposed to be) to the maintenance and protection of the
ACONCAGUA PROVINCIAL PARK.
Off –season (from March 16 to November 14) access to the Aconcagua Park is no longer free. A
permit must be purchased in Mendoza or at the Park Rangers’ Shelter in Horcones Valley. The price
of admittance is the price charged during the high season even if the rescuing service is not
provided. Neither doctors nor park rangers are available during this period. However, for a “special”
price, there is an exception between March 16 and April 1st., of each season.
To access the Aconcagua Park within these periods, for trekkings or to climb, we suggest contacting
the Aconcagua Park’s authorities. There are restrictions regarding the access of MINORS to the Park:
they will have to exhibit pertinent authorization signed by both parents and certified by Public Notary
or their respective Consulate or Embassy. For further information, please, contact the RENOVABLE
NATURAL RESOURCES BUREAU (Dirección de Recursos Naturales Renovables) located in General San
Martín Park, phone + 54 261 425 5090 or + 54 261 425 7065 (from 08:00 AM to 01:00 PM) e mail:
aconcagua@mendoza.gov.com.ar
CLIMBING AND TREKKINGS PERMITS The permits must be given in person to each visitor and only in
Mendoza. Trekking and tourism agencies are not authorized anymore to get the climbing permits for
visitors as it was in the past. Each climber must come in person to Mendoza city to get it. The
permits can not be bought either at Puente de Inca or Punta de Vacas. The control of permisses is
done in laguna Horcones (normal and south face), the same as in the Rio Vacas (Polish and Polish
traverse routes) by the park-rangers. Anywhere inside the park, the permit or the receipt may be
required to be shown.
(Passport or Identity Card required). Neither medical certificate or evidences of insurance are
necessary.
Payment may be either in Argentine Pesos or in U.S. Dollars. No credits cards or checks are
accepted. This should not take to long as the staff are normally pretty used to their jobs and are
usually pleasent.
There now are doctors at the two main base camps. (Plaza Argentina and Plaza des
Mules) You will after seeing the Rangers have to check in with the base camp doctor and
will get an examination which will determine whether you are fit to go higher. This is
manditory now and a good idea.
Permits are valid from the date of entry to the Park
Permit / garbage information from: Corax Date: Feb 05, 2005 11:26 PM
The following is to be found on the back of your climbing permit:
Note:
* Maximum stay is 20 days with ascent permit.
* Horcones ranger station open daily from 8 A.M. - 6 P.M.
* For your safety always check out.
There are toilets at Pampa Lena (flush!), Casa Piedra and Plaza Argentina. Conflencia and Plaza des Mulas for the
normal route. So it is in the upper camps where you will have to collect your waste.
If not part of an organized expedition, you have to "be contracted to a toilet service" at BC. Asking around a bit and
some big organizers will tell you the price is US$100, some smaller US$5/day or US$10 for the whole stay. If you
used the toilet services between 20:00 and 08:00 you may not have to pay anything in some of the places. For those
on an extremely low budget an alternative is to camp at the restaurant and use the toilets there. You can always use
the restaurants toilet if you are giving them some business.
Whether it is for the joy of climbing the mountain itself, or for the statistic alone, Argentina's Cerro Aconcagua has
occupied a position of prominence on many a climber's wish-list. Known to many as "The Stone Sentinel", this
colossal mound of ice and scree soars to 6,962 meters above sea-level. It sounds even better when measured in feet:
there are 22,841 of them, which makes Aconcagua the highest point in all of South America. It's big; so big, that if
the Himalayas were to somehow crumble down into nothing, the new "highest point on earth" would be, you
guessed it, Cerro Aconcagua.
Statistics aside, climbing Aconcagua is simply a great adventure. Lenticulars, penitentes, the infamous "viento
blanco"... there's a lot to keep a climber engaged. The journey is easy enough to keep you encouraged, yet
challenging enough to be a major notch in your belt.
For whatever reason one finds themselves attracted to Aconcagua, something that isn't attractive is the high cost of
climbing it with one of the various commercial operators that lay siege to the mount each year. A quick browse of
the Internet will reveal tour costs of thousands of dollars. If you're made of money, those prices are probably good
value. Your purchase will most likely ensure a comfortable base-camp, uncomplaining mules to haul your kit, and
good food on demand. Your funds will also buy you one or more bilingual guides, who will all but carry you to
Aconcagua's apex for those glorious few minutes of victory.
Yes, if you can afford it, climbing Aconcagua with a commercial guide will give you a fine chance of success. But if
you're a reasonably competent climber & traveler, have a buddy or two who are also up to the challenge, and you'd
rather save some dough for future conquests, then going it alone is an excellent option. Here are my tips, based on a
successful ascent made in January 2007, which will help you save money, and get to the top also!
Firstly, get a copy of R.J Secor's "Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide". The maps and route descriptions are very helpful.
However, taking along a good topographical map is critical, and Secor's guide doesn't have one.
Topographical maps can be found on the streets of Mendoza in the various map stores & climbing outfitters you'll
come across.
Try to spend some time at altitude before you begin your expedition, and train well! If you've already been
acclimatizing somewhere else, you won't need to spend weeks in base-camp squandering your precious supplies
while your body gets used to the altitude.
Travel to Mendoza, Argentina cheaply. If you've got the time, take the bus from your point of entry in Argentina.
For example, if you arrive in Buenos Aires, you'll probably save a lot of money if you take the bus to Mendoza,
rather than fly. Bus services are excellent, and you'll even get to brush up on your Spanish with some dubbed
movies.
If you can help it, don't buy climbing equipment in Mendoza. The prices are inflated, and there isn't a huge selection
for you to choose from anyway.
Make it your determination to view the purchase of your climbing permit (at the Direccion de Bosques y Parques
Provinciales in downtown Mendoza) as your major expense from here on out!
Inquire with the local guides in Mendoza for transport to and/or from the mountain. Sometimes, they'll let you travel
with their organized group to the park entrance, for a small fee. It may save you some time and bother. Otherwise,
there are regular buses that run between the main bus terminal in Mendoza, and Puente del Inca.
In my opinion, this final point is perhaps the most important: Take care when selecting the food for your expedition.
Food can make or break and expedition. Choose nutritious, lightweight, tasty food. Choosing food you enjoy does a
lot for your psychology. Part of what makes mountaineering potentially so miserable, is forcing yourself to eat
unpalatable food where the high altitude has already taken away your appetite. If you enjoy eating it, you'll be
happier, and you'll probably eat more - giving you good reserves of the energy you'll be burning so fast during the
day. Consider pre-cooking some favorite meals yourself and then dehydrating them. They'll pack small, and you'll
only have to rehydrate and heat them while on the mountain - saving you in two ways: a) You'll use less fuel for
your stove since you won't need to cook anything, just heat it; and b) You probably won't have to hire expensive
mules or mule-drivers, since you'll now be able to carry less fuel, and your food will be small and light enough for
you to carry on your back.
With some good planning, you should be able to stage a successful campaign on Aconcagua for only a few hundred
dollars, the majority of your land expense being the climbing permit.
It's true, there really is something very special about being on top; stabbing at that rarefied air with your ice-ax; the
"slain beast" subjected to your crampon-clad boot. It's a sweet feeling no matter how you got there. But without a
doubt, overcoming that 'mountain of challenge' through an expedition supplied by your own rucksack brings a whole
new level of satisfaction. The adventure was directed by you, and the only profits made were your own fond
memories.
Hopefully you'll still have enough 'dinero' for your next adventure, but certainly you'll have enough for that fat steak
and glass of red you promised yourself in Mendoza.
(http://www.destination360.com/south-america/argentina/aconcagua)
Mount Aconcagua is the place for all your mountaineering fantasies of summiting a giant mountain
can become reality. Mount Aconcagua will test your abilities as a climber, challenge your character
and make you into a better person and climber. The sights you will see are beyond the images in
your dreams, and the feeling you will achieve when the top is reached will be pure ecstasy. The cuts
or the bruises will not matter anymore as you breath a sign of relief and rejoice about what you have
just achieved.
Mount Aconcagua stands out among the mountain range and it is said that primitive people before
us named it "Ackon Cahuak", which means the Stone Sentinel. It was noticed long before our time
and respected. It is wise to go with an Aconcagua guide to insure your safety. This mountain stands a
towering 22, 840 feet, and it is the tallest in the Americas. It is 4,000 feet higher than any of the
neighboring mountains in the Andes.
Climbing Aconcagua is the type of climbing to prepare for future Himalayan climbs. Training needs to
be at the forefront when considering this epic climb. For a successful and enjoyable trip, it is wise to
keep in mind that training for three months or more is necessary for climbing Aconcagua.
Keep in mind when training that the official climbing season is from November 15 to March 31. If you
go early, then your mind can rest during the holidays and eat as much turkey as you want. But the
prices are also more expensive. The high season climbing season ranges from one thousand dollars
during the high season to three hundred and fifty dollars during the low season. So if budget were an
obstacle, then it would be advantageous for climbing Aconcagua during the low season.
There are many Aconcagua guides that make Aconcagua their home, and would be thrilled to take
you on a trip. An Aconcagua guide's first order of business is to insure safety for all of their guests.
Here are some names of companies: Inka Expeditions, Patagonic Adventures, Aconcagua Expeditions
and Alpine Ascents International. They along with some mules will take you to several pits stops
along the way as a way to rest and to become acclimated to the altitude. One of these destinations is
Plaza de Mulas, which has drinking water and room to set up camp. It is about 14,000 feet high.
Another place to see along the way is Horcones Superior, which is unique place to visit and ice climb.
This is an adventurous and challenging climb, but you will return home with one of the most
incredible experiences of your life, a sense of great accomplishment and memories you will never
forget. At first, you will breathe a sigh of relief that you are home, but then you will be telling all your
envious friends about your trip. The main thing to remember is to be prepared and be safe. After that
the most important thing is to take pictures!