Area: 218 sq.

km
Altitude: 500-3200m (accessible 100-3200m including adjacent areas; road 100-2800m)
Lat-Long: 27.1N 92.4E, in W. Kameng district, Arunachal Pradesh, India.
Forest HQ: Seijusa1 (DFO), Tenga/Singchung (Range Office)
Entry points: Tenga from the north (recommended), Doimara from the south.
Vegetation Type: lowland evergreen forest (better at Pakke); broad-leaved forest, bamboo, conifers;
roadside scrub and farmland - all these in both subtropical and temperate altitudes;
Best Season - Birds: November-May. More birdsong in April-May but fewer winter birds.
Best Season - butterflies/herps: monsoon, especially May and October.

Speciality Birds: Rufous-bellied hawk-eagle, northern goshawk, pied falconet, common hill-partridge,
temminck's tragopan, ashy wood-pigeon, tawny wood-owl, rufous-necked hornbill, ward's trogon, golden-
throated barbet, crimson-breasted pied-woodpecker, bay woodpecker, pale-headed woodpecker, grey-
chinned minivet, rufous-bellied bulbul, maroon-backed accentor, eye-browed thrush, fea's thrush, gould's
shortwing, white-browed shortwing, blue-fronted robin, little forkail, golden bush-robin, rufous-breasted
bush-robin, puple cochoa, grey-sided laughing-thrush, scaly laughing-thrush, black-faced laughing-thrush,
red-faced liocichla, coral-billed scimitar-babbler, slender-billed scimitar-babbler, 6 wren-babblers (wedge-
billed, bar-winged, pygmy, spotted, rufous-throated and scaly-breasted), gold-headed babbler, cutia,
rufous-bellied shrike-babbler, green shrike-babbler, white-hooded babbler, red-tailed minla, 6 tit-
babblers/fulvettas (incl. golden-breasted, brown-throated, and yellow-throated), 3 sibias (incl beautiful,
and rufous-backed), 5 yuhinas (incl. black-chinned, rufous-vented and white-naped), fire-tailed myzornis,
6 parrotbills (greater and lesser rufous-headed, brown, grey-headed and fulvous-fronted), mountain
tailorbird, 3 tesias (chestnut-headed, grey-bellied and slaty-bellied), 8 flycatcher-warblers (incl. broad-
billed, white-spectacled, chestnut-crowned and black-faced), 4 niltavas (incl. vivid and large), 13
flycatchers (incl. white-gorgeted), rufous-bellied and grey-crested tits, sultan tit, beautiful nuthatch,
wallcreeper, brown-throated treecreeper, yellow-bellied flowerpecker, mrs gould's and fire-tailed sunbird,
gold-naped black-finch, beavan's bullfinch, brown bullfinch.

Birding Areas

Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary Area

Bhalupong-Tenga Road: Passes along the eastern borders of the Eaglenest and Sessa sanctuaries
and provides an excellent birding transect from 300-1600m altitude, that is, apart from the traffic. The
corresponding areas inside Eaglenest are, naturally, better but this is an option for birders who don't have
the time for Eaglenest.

Northern slope
Tenga: 1200m. Farmland and habitation.
Ramalingam: 1780m. Subtropical farmland, scrub and degraded forest.
Lama Camp: 2350m. Temperate broad-leaved primary and degraded forest.

Ridge: Temperate bamboo, conifer and broad-leaved forest and scrub.

Eaglenest Pass: 2800m; Bra-Top: 3200m; Piri-La: 3000m?
Bra-Top and Piri-La are the only 2 locations on this list not accessible by a vehicle and can be accessed
by steep trails from Chakoo and Lama Camp. There has been much confusion involving these 2 names
and Piri-La has been used to refer to both (even in Athreya & Kartikeyan 1995, and Choudhary 2003).
The trail from Chakoo is signposted "Piri-La Trail". It climbs up to the ridge at 3100m and then bifurcates,
the right branch climbing up immediately to Bra-Top and the left one following the ridge to Piri-La some
distance away. Survey of India topo sheets show both these places. The Chakoo - Bra-top trail is tough
but it passes through excellent birch, fir, rhododendron and bamboo and I've seen on that trail temminck's
tragopan, fulvous-fronted parrotbills, black bear and even a red panda!

Southern Slope
Sunderview: 2465m. Temperate broad-leaved forest and roadside scrub.
Chakoo: 2405m. Temperate broad-leaved forest, meadows in ancient clear-felled patches.
Bompu: 1940m. Subtropical broad-leaved forest and bamboo, large patch of open scrub
Sessni: 1250m. Broad-leaved forest. Old jhoom patches with secondary scrub.
Khellong: 750m. Tropical forest, grazing meadows and degraded scrub.
Kamengbari - Doimara: 100-350m. Tropical forest, grazing meadows, shingle banks and cultivation.

The sanctuary extends from Eaglenest Pass to a little above Khellong along the road. The entire stretch
from Lama Camp on the northern slope, up across Eaglenest Pass and down the southern slope to
Khellong is prime birding area. Doimara and Kamengbari are also good but the corresponding areas in
Pakke tiger reserve are better. A broad jeep track runs from Tenga to Kamengbari through Eaglenest
Pass which makes for very comfortable roadside birding. It is this combination of roadside scrub adjacent
to primary forest just 20-30m away, apart from 3200m of altitudinal range, which makes Eaglenest a
prime birding site. The large altitudinal range and the extraordinary bird assemblage requires a minimum
of 6-10 days with a jeep and 10-14 days on foot to do justice to it.

Boarding & Lodging

Bomdila (Grade 2) : District HQ, 50 km (2.5 hr) from Eaglenest.
Tenga (Grade 3) : 28 km (1.5 hr) from Eaglenest.
Singchung (Grade 3-) : A well furnished IB (6 people), 28 km (1.5 hr) from Eaglenest.
Ramalingam (Grade 5) : An FRH (4 people), 20 km (1 hour) from Eaglenest. Camping.
Lama Camp (Grade 5) : GREF sheds (8 people), 10 km (30 min) from Eaglenest. Camping.
Sunderview (Grade 5) : GREF sheds (3 people), inside Eaglenest. Camping.
Bompu (Grade 5) : GREF sheds (12 people), inside Eaglenest. Camping.
Sessni (Grade 5) : GREF sheds (4 people), inside the sanctuary.
Khellong (Grade 5) : Forest Dept. sheds (6 people), 7 km (30 min) from Eaglenest.
Doimara (Grade 4) : a village 20 km (1 hour) from Eaglenest. Unfurnished shacks can be arranged by the
Village Chief if intimated in advance. Camping.

See town grade and accommodation descriptions.

Camp style accommodation, whether in tents or in empty sheds, is the only option between Lama Camp
and Doimara. Tented camps in the lower reaches, at Khellong and Sessni, are not recommended
because of elephant activity; Doimara is safe because of the electric fence around the village. Perimeter
trenches have been recommended to facilitate year-round camping in all areas. Elephants move up
above Sessni only during summer (May - October) and so are not an issue for winter visitors.

Contact
Eaglenest Biodiversity Project: Ramana Athreya
More Information on the area: Ramana Athreya email
Bird Tours: Kaati Tours & Mr. Indi Glow (President, Bugun Welfare Society)
Mr. Glow : Tenga Market, Tenga, W. Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh, Ph 91-3782-273359; Kaati Tours:Ph
+91-2132-245770 email

Entry Permits
1. Arunachal entry permits are required for both Indians and foreigners and are checked on entry into
Arunachal at Bhalukpong. The Circle Officers at Tenga/Singchung/Bhalukpong/Bomdila can issue fresh
permits to extend the stay (for Indians only).
2. Forest entry permits are issued by the Divisional Forest Officer, Pakke Tiger Reserve, Seijusa. E.
Kameng district, Arunachal Pradesh. Phone +91-3778-222229 (off), 222230 (res), who also has
additional charge of Eaglenest Wildlife sanctuary. The nearest Forest Dept presence is the Range Forest
Office at Singchung.
3. The Bugun tribe of Tenga which lost its ancient rights over Eaglenest (along with the Sherdukpen tribe
of Rupa) now charges an entry fee of Rs. 500 per day for foreigner and Rs. 100 for Indian visitors, which
goes into the Bugun Welfare Society (and not Govt coffers). It has been proposed to reduce this to Rs.
250 and Rs. 50 respectively and charge Rs. 1000 per day for each 4-wheel vehicle (for both Indians and
foreigners), to encourage trekking visitors and make vehicles pay for the damage they do to the fragile
mountain road. The money collected will be used to provide local employment for patrolling the area and
maintaining the road for visitors.

Transport
a) Walking is permitted inside the park.
b) To/From Tenga: Tenga is on the Tezpur-Bomdila-Tawang highway and connected by buses from
Itanagar, Tezpur and Guwahati (Rs. 250 from Guwahati) and by shared jeeps from Tezpur (early morning
and noon - Rs. 160 per seat). Full jeeps may also be hired from Tezpur, Balipara or Bhalukpong (Rs.
1200-1600) which will also facilitate birding the excellent Bhalukpong-Tenga stretch. The 135 km long
drive, mostly in the hills, takes 3-5 hour.
c) Tenga to Eaglenest: The options are:
1. Trek all the way with porters/camp staff
2. Vehicle drop-off at Eaglenest Pass or beyond and a trek downhill with porters/camp staff. Drop-off
vehicles can be rented in Tenga for Rs. 1000-1500
3. Vehicle hired for the entire visit. Vehicles are available at Tenga and Bomdila for Rs. 1000-2000 per
day plus fuel.
d) Inside Eaglenest: Access on foot through the broad jeep track is possible all through the year.
Mountain bikes and motor-cycles (none available on hire locally) may also be used all through the year.
Jeep access is usually limited to between November and April (May). The main rainy season is from May
to October but heavy rains are a permanent threat and could cause a temporary road block (for jeeps)
during any month. Snow on the ground is a possibility above 2000m for a few weeks from mid-January to
early March.
e) Exit from Eaglenest: One can
1. Trek back over the Eaglenest Pass to Tenga
2. Trek downhill and catch the daily bus from Doimara (6 days a week, with occasional no-shows)
3. Arrange for a jeep pick-up inside Eaglenest and exit via Doimara or Tenga

Visiting these places by public transport will require a travel overhead of 3-4 days ex-Guwahati and one
should keep a buffer for bus truancy. With a private vehicle the travel component will be 1-2 days.
Logistical organisation will require a day at Tenga (alternatively, have Mr. Glow to do the organisation
beforehand).

Miscellaneous
All arrangements in Tenga - porters, camp staff, provisions, vehicle booking, local entry and
accommodation permits etc - are best done through Mr. Indi Glow who lives in Tenga, is aware of the
needs of tourists (especially birders) and has been intimately associated with the Eaglenest Biodiversity
Project. In association with the EBP he is involved in the process of identifying and training a reliable
team of camp staff who understand that for birders "breakfast at 5.30 AM" means breakfast at 5.30 AM
and that many visitors do not consider chilly a vegetable!

Copyright © Ramana Athreya

Upper Dikorai river above Khari in Pakke Tiger Reserve

Western Arunachal Pradesh

Pakke Tiger Reserve
by Ramana Athreya
General Information

Area : 862 sq. km

Altitude : 100-2000m (accessible 100-300m)
Lat-Long : 27.1N 93E, in E. Kameng district, Arunachal Pradesh, India.
Reserve HQ/ Entry points : Seijusa1/ Seijusa1 and Tipi
Vegetation Type : lowland evergreen forest, shingle banks, farmland, plantations. Though Pakke and Kaziranga are
both at very low elevations the vegetation is very different and therefore so are the birds.
Best Season - Birds : November-March (April)
Best Season - butterflies/herps : monsoon, especially May and October. Butterflies were active even in December
but not in April.
Speciality Birds : jerdon's baza, pied falconet, white-cheeked hill-partridge, grey peacock-pheasant, elwe's crake,
ibisbill, emerald cuckoo, red-headed trogon, green-pigeon spp., forest eagle-owl, wreathed and great hornbills, collared
and long-tailed broadbills, blue-naped pitta, lesser shortwing, white-browed shortwing, daurian redstart, leschenault's
forktail, lesser necklaced laughing-thrush, silver-eared leiothrix, white-bellied yuhina, yellow-bellied flycatcher-
warbler, sultan tit, ruby-cheeked sunbird, maroon oriole, crow-billed drongo,

Birding Areas

Seijusa1 : 2-4 days

1. Garden and woodland around the Forest Dept complex
2. Farmland and scrub, 2-4 km up to and beyond Seijusa2
3. Woodland and open scrub across the river around the FRH and animal enclosures
4. Shingle banks of the river
5. Forest along the first 2 km of the Khari road
Khari : 2-4 days
1. Forest-edge around the FRH
2. 2-3 km of the road towards Seijusa,
3. Forest edge along streams and rivers.
4. Animal trails into the forest
Khari has a wonderful view. There are few experiences to beat sitting on the platform in the evening, pleasantly tired
after a great day of birding, with a hot cup of tea and snacks and watching a large elephant herd ford the river below
while emerald and rufous-bellied plaintive cuckoos are trying to raise the dead in the tree behind. In 1994, our evening
ritual during a full week was to welcome a flock each of both broadbills as they settled in the vicinity for the night!
Spot-bellied eagle-owls have been seen in the area as well.
Tipi : 1-2 days
1. Roadside birding along the highway
2. The river below the FRH
3. Cross the river and follow the trail into the forest

Boarding & Lodging

Seijusa1 (Grade 3) : Furnished FRH (4 people) just outside the Park. Camping? Power supply erratic.
Khari (Grade 5) : furnished FRH (4 people). Camping? No electrical power.
Tipi (Grade 4) : furnished FRH (4 people). Camping? Has electrical power.
Bhalukpong (Grade 3) : several IBs (?), 5 km from Tipi. Also a couple of very basic hotels and restaurants.
See town grade and accommodation descriptions

Contacts

As of now, there is no contact person around Pakke itself for making arrangements for visitors but we are in the
process of identifying interested persons. Forest Dept officials have been very helpful in the past in hiring vehicles
and camp staff locally. Mr. Indi Glow of Tenga may be requested to make arrangements here as well.
More Information on the area : Ramana Athreya email (rathreya at ncra.tifr.res.in)
Bird Tours: Kaati Tours & Mr. Indi Glow (President, Bugun Welfare Society)
Mr. Glow:Tenga Market, Tenga, W. Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh, Ph 91-3782-273359
Kaati Tours:Ph +91-2132-245770 email (kaati_tours at vsnl.net)

Entry Permits

Arunachal entry permits are required for both Indians and foreigners and are checked at Seijusa1. The Circle Officer at
Seijusa2 can issue fresh permits to extend the stay (for Indians only).
Forest entry permits are issued by the Divisional Forest Officer, Pakke Tiger Reserve, Seijusa. E. Kameng district,
GORICHEN DRIVE

Trekkers’ paradise
The unspoilt and idyllic environs of
Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh make it an
A view of the Gorichen peak
unforgettable visit, writes Partha S.
Banerjee

FOR those bitten by the travel bug, few

regions in India seem as enticing as this
remote, unspoilt northeastern state with its
pristine forests, distinctive tribal culture,
ancient Buddhist monasteries and high snow-
clad Himalayan peaks.

Visit Arunachal's most popular tourist

destination, Tawang, and chances are you
wouldn't get a glimpse of the 22,000 ft-plus
Gorichen and Kangto summits, the state's
Yaks in Chander
highest. A range of hills that thrusts — Photos by the writer
southwestwards from the Great Himalayas on
the Tibet border obscures them, isolating the picturesque Tawang valley. A hike to the
village of Chander affords a stunning view of the Himalayan summits. The Chander trek
takes off from Dhirang, an ancient village with a ruined dzong (fortress) where many
families still live. Dhirang lies not far from Bomdila, the district headquarters town sprawled
on a ridge and situated halfway between Tawang and Tezpur in Assam. Beyond Dhirang, the
road begins ascending the mountain range that isolates the Tawang valley (and blocks
views of the snow peaks), crossing it over the Se La pass (13,700 ft), before descending to
Jang, at the head of the Tawang valley.

The Tourist Lodge at Dhirang overlooks the new town which sprawls on the banks of the
river with the same name. The next morning, after a quick breakfast, we were off, walking
along the highway. The road followed the Dhirang river and soon reached the dzong.
Beyond the dzong, the trail breaks away from the road and, crossing the Dhirang river over
a footbridge, begins ascending a hill. The climb is steep, and the trail is marked at intervals
by chortens (stupas) and mani (stones with religious inscriptions) walls.

We broke for lunch at one of those walls, after passing an isolated farmstead with maize
drying on bamboo poles and tethered horses grazing. Further up, the path became largely
even, and suddenly we could see the Bomdila ridge on our right. A further gentle climb and
we were on the top of the hill (7,380 ft); the trail now turned around and descended to the
village of Namshu after circling a valley.
 Travel tips

Namshu is a large Access: To reach Dhirang, fly or

picturesque farming take a train to Guwahati in Assam
village with two and take a bus from there to Tezpur
gompas; it was here (about 4 hours). Shared Sumo jeeps
that we put up for the and buses leave Tezpur (last service
night. There are no midday) for Bomdila where you will
lodges or trekkers' huts have to stay overnight and catch an
on this route; if you early morning bus or Sumo taxi to
can't find a friendly Dhirang (45 km). Being on the
host, the only Texpur-Tawang highway, you can
alternative is to stay in get transport from Dhirang to visit
the village school or to Tawang after (or before) the trek.
camp. The experience
of unadulterated Accommodation: Bomdila has a
country life in the good Tourist Lodge and several
remote hills of the medium-range hotels. Dhirang's
northeast is unique. Tourist Lodge is adjacent to a new
The customs and food moderately-priced hotel; there are
A Monpa woman from Mago
habits of the Buddhist cheaper hotels in the town below.
Monpa people here are so different from mainstream
India's, it is almost as though you are in a different
Best season: Oct-Dec, March-April
country altogether.

Beyond Namshu, the trail climbs steeply through a wooded slope behind the village gompa,
then up a difficult, steeper stretch along a natural water channel to the top of the ridge
(8,660 ft). Here the trail, very indistinct so far, meets a broad path that winds through the
top of the ridge. Further up, a jeep track joins the path. The track goes up to Chander,
zigzagging up several hairpin bends on the way. We take some shortcuts up the slopes to
avoid the long hairpins; by now, the vegetation had become less dense and we were
approaching semi-alpine altitudes with yaks grazing among scrubland.

Suddenly, after a turn, the promised snow mountains came into view. It was so sudden,
with very little warning: On a ridge beyond were a few houses comprising the village of
Chander. In Chander, the view of the mountain views now got even better, with the giant
massif of Gorichen soaring into the sky and a host of other peaks all around.

Chander (9,900 ft) is a windswept village straddling a ridge where tribesmen from the
remoter mountains come to trade with the villagers of the lower hills. That afternoon
herdsmen from Mago (near the Gorichen base camp) in traditional wear had just arrived
with scores of yaks and horses; the village was humming with life. We were put up in a hut,
where, over the entire night, the Mago and Chander villagers and others who had come
from below gossiped, gambled and smoked.

We rose early to catch the sunrise on the mountains. Streaks of clouds, coloured orange
and red by the sun's golden rays, made the view even more gorgeous. We reluctantly bade
goodbye to Chander, and returned through a different route.
 The Rediff Special/Lieutenant General (retd) Ravi Eipe

My most significant impression of this

battle, 40 years after it happened, is the
quality of the Indian soldier. He is a very
unique person, who is willing to follow his
officer without question. In 1962, we had to
endure such poor conditions, innumerable
privations, inadequacies, and shortages.
His loyalty, dedication, and willingness to
do his duty and go beyond that are truly
remarkable.

We were fighting in the Namkachu region,

which was at an altitude of about 12,500
feet. We had to make a six-day foot march
from Tawang to approach it. In the process,
we had to cross the Sang Dar ridge, which
is about 16,000 feet. The terrain was
extremely difficult. There were some mule
tracks, nothing beyond that.

The roads in those days came up to Tawang. That too, it was a one-tonne-in-patches kind of
track. Logistically, we were in a very difficult area where the troops had to sustain themselves on
man pack. That is, you had with you whatever you carried on your back. And as far as
replenishments were concerned, we were getting rations air-dropped. But because of the
altitude and the closeness to the border, the aircraft were dropping at heights that tend to
disperse the drops.

So it was extremely difficult to collect the rations. Many of the items, even if dropped, would get
caught in ravines and the troops never got what they required even if it was basic rations.
Sometimes, for example, we just could not get salt. Sugar was not there. This kind of logistical
problem put the troops to a lot of privation. But in spite of that, our troops displayed one great
thing, and that was that they could sustain themselves on very little, and even be very cheerful
with these hardships.

Secondly, because were on man-pack basis when we had to make our defences there, we did
not have the proper tools and equipment, and had to rely on very small picks and shovels that a
man carries on his back, which we call tools entrenching. That's a very inefficient way of digging
anything. If you wanted to cut a tree in those days, there was nothing like an electric saw, like
you see in the movies now. It was only with a dha or an axe that you felled trees.

In addition to all these difficulties, the weather was hard. We did not have snow clothing, but
were just sustaining ourselves at those incredible altitudes with angola shirts, that is, heavy
mazari shirts with a jersey each. Every man had one blanket with him. So we used to sleep in
pairs. You had a blanket and what we would call a ground sheet each, that's all. Even an officer
had to sleep with someone else. That way, each pair of soldiers had two blankets over them.

These were some of the difficulties that the troops encountered. But the morale was high all the
same. The people were very cheerful.

But the main reason why we got into this kind of situation was because of the overall
assessment, which somehow was extremely faulty. Our perception of China was that it was a
very benign country. It was an era of 'Hindi-Chini bhai bhai'. The political thought process in the
country precluded the possibility of China as a real threat.
 Consequently, the preparations to undertake such an
operation were very tardy. There was a mismatch between our
perception of the enemy and what the enemy actually did.
That is the reason why we got into so many problems.
Otherwise, we would have gone into this war with better
preparations: built roads and so on. That is the reason we
were caught on the wrong foot.

At a national level, we did not read the enemy's intentions properly. There are letters from
Vallabhbhai Patel to the prime minister that are published that ratify all that I am saying: Mr Patel
draws the attention of the government to the fact that the Chinese should not be underestimated.
Their intentions are not as honourable as they appear. The nation should prepare for the worst.
But unless you recognise that an adversary is an adversary, your preparations will never match
the situation.

The other thing is that we were deployed in a fashion that could be criticised severely, from a
military point of view. Our principle always is that you must occupy heights so that the enemy
who wants to attack you climbs up to you, and then you have the advantage of height when you
want to deal with him. But here, we were deployed along a nullah or river, so that our attackers
got the advantage over us. He could come behind us and on top of us.

This happened because of the belief that the line we occupied was not a defensive line; it was
just a political line temporarily to establish our claim to what we are holding. So, there again, we
were not very realistic. When our battalion was attacked, we were not only on low ground, but
also facing the enemy here with the attack coming from behind.

As far as China's plans went, we saw the Chinese hand first when this post was established at
Dola sometime in September 1962. It is now very clear that the Chinese intended for some time
to launch an operation into India in the Tawang sector. The preparations started some time in
1960, two whole years before the actual war. It started with the gradual building of roads quite
close to the border. This dispute was a godsend to them. If our post had not been established
where it was, I am sure China would have found some other excuse to carry out the operation
that they did.

It may be interesting to analyse why they did it. To understand that, one has to go back into the
Chinese aspirations. They have always aspired to not only be a world power, but a superpower.
In the 1950s, soon after they became independent, they had concluded that they must first
become a regional power, and demonstrate their capability in the South Asian continent. This
whole operation against India might have been an exercise to demonstrate China's superiority in
this region.

Secondly, the Chinese have always wanted to absorb Tibet into their mainstream. The escape of
the Dalai Lama to India must have been a sore point for them. It must have reinforced their
concern that India could be trouble for them. These two things prompted to start this operation. If
you recall, after they reached the foothills, they unilaterally ceased fire and withdrew.

The spin-off of this reverse was that the armed forces went into raising new formations, revising
our technologies, techniques, strategies, and weapon systems. This helped us meet the
challenges of the wars of 1965 and 1971, and even Kargil recently. The reverse of 1962 spurred
the Indian Army to pull itself up. Many countries remain unchallenged, so their armies remain
untested. Our test came very early, and we could set our house in order.

As for the Chinese soldier, as I encountered him: the Chinese were considered lotus-eaters in
the Second World War, and given unimportant roles by the allies. After the Chinese revolution,
the People's Liberation Army came into power and the party and army cadres became one and
the same.

The men we encountered had already experienced fighting in Korea. But they were not a highly
advanced army. They had better rifles than we had. But their techniques were typical of a
people's army. They followed the technique of using human waves and mass attacks. Political
indoctrination was part of their training. The Chinese soldier was very dedicated, though not as
modern as that of any advanced country. But he was a good infantryman, who could march long
 distances, live off the land, and adapt to all types of weather. I would
rate him on a par with our men.

We saw the Chinese soldiers eyeball to eyeball, across a narrow

nullah. They wore gray unisex trousers and long coats, with red
flashes on their shoulders. They were tall and fit.

I had 95 men under me; I was a captain. The whole battalion had 513 men of all ranks in the
Namkachu area. Of these, 282 were killed. Of my 95, only 14, including I, survived! All this on
just one day! The enemy captured another 171.

The battle on that day went thus: we woke up and occupied our defences at 5.15am, just before
first light. Fifteen minutes later, the enemy started heavy artillery shelling. They could see our
positions clearly. Their fire was very effective, as the distance was short. In some cases, they
could even use guns for direct firing. They could hit our bunkers, and some of our bunkers just
blew up into smithereens.

In the meantime, in the darkness, unknown to us, the Chinese had crossed further up north and
were coming behind our positions. This shelling carried on for about 45 minutes. Then we heard
a bugle, and the shelling stopped. Instead, firing began from behind. When we realised that this
attack was coming from behind us, we organised ourselves to turn behind and keep firing. But
the advantage was to the Chinese, who were on top.

In spite of the fact that we were in an unfavourable position, we continued fighting. We could
hold on for nearly another 45 minutes, by which time we had suffered extensive casualties.

I was not in communication with the battalion commander or anyone else. So I took whatever
men I could to the brigade headquarters. The brigade commander was there, and heard the
firing. All the companies of the 2nd Rajput had been attacked simultaneously in the same
manner, and that is why we suffered such losses. The next day, Brigadier John Dalvi, our
commander, became a prisoner of war!

I too got a splinter wound during the shelling, but it was not incapacitating. One could keep
walking around with it. Only, as it became cold, it hurt whenever I breathed. The story after that
is very long and well known. We were in retreat, but a complex one. But the story of the battle of
the 2nd Rajput in the 1962 war ends there. It was very hard to carry the wounded in that terrain:
four to six men were needed to carry every wounded man.

What strikes me is that even though we experienced a setback in the war, we are fortunate to
have soldiers of such calibre fighting for India. These men never held it against their country that
she had nothing much to offer in terms of clothing, food, or equipment, but still expected great
performances from them. I found, in 1962, an army of soldiers willing to make the greatest
possible sacrifices for their country, just for love and dedication to their land.

(Ravi Eipe was 22, and had been in the army for three years, when he was thrust into battle with
the Chinese in the North East Frontier Agency [now Arunachal Pradesh]. The lieutenant general
now lives in Bangalore. He spoke to M D Riti)
Rajiv Gandhi Orang National Park

The oldest game reserve of the State just on the northern bank of river Brahmaputra with an area
of 78.80 sq. kms. and an important breeding ground for varieties of Fishes.

What you expect to see

Mammal : Rhinoceros, Tiger, Maljuria Elephants (male elephants in group), Hog Deer, Wild
Pig, Civet Cat, Porcupine and Gangetic Dolphin.

Birds : 222 species of Birds have so far been recorded, some of which are Spot Billed Pelican,
White Pelican, Greater Adjutant Stork, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Brahminy Duck, Pintail Duck,
Bengal Florican(2nd.highest concentration) etc.

Reptiles : Indian Rock Python, Black Krait, King Cobra, Cobra, Monitor Lizard.

Turtles : Seven species of Turtle and Tortoise.

How to reach : The nearest Airport Salonibari (Tezpur) is 80 kms. and the LGBI Guwahati
Airport is 150 kms. The National Park is located 18 kms. south of the N.H. 52 at Dhansirighat
and the distance to Mangaldai is 70 kms. and Guwahati is 150 kms.

Where to stay : Satsimalu Rest House - the most sought after accommodation as it provides a
vintage point for viewing wildlife and Silbori Rest House at the Range H.Q. A Tourist Lodge
located near the entrance to the park managed by the Tourism Department can accommodate 16
people at a time. It has 8 cottages. The Forest Dormitory is located at the Gate and provides
group accommodation for 40 people, without bedding and food.

Whom to contact for visit : Divisional Forest Officer, Mangaldoi Wildlife Division, Mangaldai,
Darrang, Tel.– 03713- 230022, Range Forest Officer, Rajiv Gandhi Orang National Park, Silbori,
Tel.- 03712- 282379.
1 Director General of Police VIMLA MEHRA POLCE HQrs. POLICE HEAD QUARTERS
0360-2218190 2212296
1 Inspector General of Police DEEPAK MISHRA POLCE HQrs. POLICE HEAD QUARTERS
0360-2212576 2292946
9 Suprintendent of Police PALDAN BOMDILA WEST KAMENG 0360-2291597 222047
3 Suprintendent of Police SANG NORBU MOSOBI TAWANG TAWANG 03794-222231
222213
5 Suprintendent of Police SEPPA EAST KAMENG 03787-222211

25 Office Incharge of PS TAWANG TAWANG 03794-222235

26 Office Incharge of PS JANG TAWANG 03794-254808
27 Office Incharge of PS BOMDILA WEST KAMENG 03782-222036
28 Office Incharge of PS KALAKTANG WEST KAMENG 03780-266441
29 Office Incharge of PS BOMDILA WEST KAMENG 03782-222036
37 Office Incharge of PS SEPPA EAST KAMENG 03787-222231
38 Office Incharge of PS SEIJOSA EAST KAMENG 03778-222204
39 Office Incharge of PS BHALUKPONG WEST KAMENG 03780-234432
40 Office Incharge of PS DIRANG WEST KAMENG 03780-242230

Sl No Designation Name Place Unit/District Off.Phone Res.Phone Email id

1 Asstt. Inspector General of Police ANIL KR OJHA POLICE HEAD QUARTERS 0360-
2291065 2211967
2 Asstt. Inspector General of Police MADHUP KR TIWARY OPERATION 0360-2291274
2290863
3 Asstt. Inspector General of Police MADHUP KR TIWARY OPS 0360-2291274 2290863

TAWANG TOUR

Day 01: Arrive Guwahati / Nameri National Park (255 kms, 5 hrs drive)
Arrive Guwahati by flight.
Meeting upon arrival and depart for Nameri National Park.

Nameri National Park: The Nameri National Park of 200 sq kms area is located in the Sonitpur
district, bordering Arunachal Pradesh and it is also the core area of Nameri Tiger Reserve
(344sq kms). It is the home of Mammals like Elephant, Tiger, leopard, Sambar,Barking deer,
Hog Deer, Wild Boar,Gaur, slow loris,gaplangur,Burmese ferret badger, and over 350 species of
birds including White-winged Wood Duck, Ibisbill (uncommon), Ruddy Kingfisher,
Palla’sfishing eagle,Lesser Adjutant stork , Greater spotted eagle,Rufous necked hornbill, Great
pied Indian hornbill, Wreathed hornbill, Long-billed Ringed Plover, Sultan Tit, and Yellow-
bellied and White-throated Fantails. Another important wild life sanctuary of Arunachal Pradesh
The Pakhui (Pakke) wild life Sanctuary adjoins the Park on its North-Eastern point. The river
Jia- Bhoroli and its tributaries namely the Diji, Dinai, Doigurung, Nameri, Dikorai, Kharietc
crisscross the park. During rainy season A few jheels (during the rainy seasons) also dot the area.
One can enjoy rafting in the Jia Bhoroli river in the south western boundary.
Arrive and check in at Eco Camp.

Rest of the time free at leisure

Overnight at hotel.

Day 02: Nameri National Park

Early morning go for the nature walk and the bird watching trip into the dense jungle of Nameri
National Park with the forest guards.

Afternoon you can opt for mild river rafting in Jia Bharali river adjoining to the Nameri National
Park. (Optional)

Breakfast, lunch and dinner at the camp.

Overight at the camp

Day 03: Nameri / Bomdila (125 kms, 4 hrs drive)

Morning after an early breakfast departs for Bomdila by the same vehicle.

En route visit

Bhalukpong: Situated on the Assam-Arunachal border, 250 kms from Guwahati, Bhalukpong is
another picturesque spot for angling and leisurely picnics.

Tipi Orchid Sanctury and Research Center: An Orchidarium at Tipi (5 kms from Bhalukpong) on
the way to Bomdila is the Botanical paradise. About 300 species of orchids can be seen in the
flora – glass house. Some of them are rare and endangered species. By the side of the glass house
there is an orchid museum too.

Arrive Bomdila and check in at hotel.

Bomdila: On the way to Tawang , situated at height of 8500 ft (distance from Tezpur 180 kms),
Bomdila is a picturesque town in the foothills of Himalayas and the headquarter of West
Kameng District the land of the Monpa, Sherdukpen, Aka (Hrusso), Miji and Bogun (Khawas)
tribes. One can see the brilliant landscape and snow-clad Gorichen ranges of the Himalaya on a
clear day. With its apple orchards, Buddhist gomphas and a magnificient view of the Kameng
Valley Bomdila can be named as a mini paradise. Bomdila is also an ideal place for nature lovers
with several trekking and hiking trails are now opened for the adventure seeker.
Places of interest:

Later Visit

Bomdila Monastery: The monastery has been built under the guidance of Dalai Lama. It is a
residence of more than 200 Buddhist monks. From the monastery one can have the breathtaking
view of the entire Bomdila. The time of pray is in dawn and dusk, attending which, one can have
the absolute peace of mind.

Also visit craft center, where very fine wooden carpets of colourful designs and Masks are
produced.

Bomdila also offers a Bird's eye view of Kangto and Gorichen peaks (highest peaks in the state)
amidst the Himalayan landscape and snow clad ranges.

Overnight at hotel.
Day 04: Bomdila / Tawang (180 Kms, 6 hrs drive)
Morning after breakfast ddepart by car for Tawang.

En route visit

Jaswant Garh: The war memorial is located 14 kms from Sella Pass on the way to Tawang. The
memorial pay homage to Jaswant Singh Rawat, Mahavir Chakra Awardee posthumous (the
second highest award from the Indian Army). In the famous battle of Nuranang against Chinese
in November 1962, Rawat and two other soldiers from 4th Batallion Garhwal Rifles were
instrumental in killing 300 Chinese soldiers in 72 hours.

Sella Pass: The entry point into the Tawang Valley is Sela pass at an elevation of 13700 ft above
the sea level.. Legend says that a monpa woman supported sepoy Jashwant Singh during his
battle with the Chinese. She brought sepoy Jashwant supplies and used to heal his wounds. When
Jashwant got martyrdom she killed herself as an act of loyalty.
The glimpse of Paradise Lake in the Sella Pass makes your visit worth. Most of the time the lake
is covered with thick blanket of snow.

Arrive Tawang and check in at hotel.

Evening free at leisure.
Overnight at hotel.

Day 05: Tawang

Morning after breakfast explore Tawang, visiting

Tawang Monastery (Vihar): Tawang Monastery about 400 years old, situated at an altitude of
approximately 10,000 ft. is the second largest Buddhist monastery in India. It also holds the
distinction of being the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama. The monastery is the house of more
than 700 monks. The monastery was founded by Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso, in 1681 in
accordance to the wishes of the 5th Dalai Lama, Nagwang Lobsang Gyatso. As per the legend,
the site of the Monastery was chosen by the horse of Merag Lama. Merag Lama, who had been
unable to decide a site to establish the monastery. One day he was praying in cave, seeking a
divine guidance. When he came out after the prayers, he found his horse was missing. On search,
the horse was located standing quietly on a hilltop. Considering that as the sign of divine
blessing he decided to construct the monastery at the very spot. The monastery is also called
Galden Namgey Lhatse meaning celestial paradise. There is a magnificent 8 meter high statue of
Lord Buddha. The ancient library inside the courtyard has an excellent collection of thangkas,
painted with the blood from the nose of 5th Dalai Lamaand valuable Buddhist manuscripts
mainly Kanjur and Tanjur numbering 850 bundles.

Urqelling Monastery: It is the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama who is the only Indian to have
risen to such a high position in Gelupka Sect of Buddhism so far. Inside the monastery there are
several Stupas (Vihar) and people from all walks of life visit this place during Buddhist new year
to get the blessing for the coming year.
The Craft Center: The craft center in Tawang sells beautiful masks, hand woven carpets,
jewellery in silver, coral and amber, ‘chubas’ the local dressand delightful affordable mementos.

Tawang War Memorial: The memorial is dedicated to the martyrs of the 1962 Sino-Indian war.
The memorial is 40-foot-high and like a stupa in design. It is locally called ‘Namgyal Chortan’.
The names of 2420 martyrs imprinted in gold on 32 black granite plagues.
Sangestser Lake: Popularly known as Madhuri Lake is located 35 kms away from Tawang near
the China Border. The drive to Sangestser Lake is full of thrill and one can still see the war
bankers that had been used during the Chinses aggression in 1962 and the beautiful PTSO lake
Day 06: Tawang / Dirang (140 kms, 5 hrs drive)

Overnight at hotel.

Day 06: Tawang / Dirang (140 Kms, 6 hrs drive)

Morning after breakfast depart for Dirang.

En route stop at the Nuranang fa+lls.

Arrive Dirang and check in at the hotel.

Dirang: Dirang 40 kms from Bomdila is situated at an altitude of 1497 meters. It is an ideal hill
resort in West Kameng district with beautiful Apple Nursery, Kiwi Farm, Yak Research Centre,
Buddhist Gompa, Hot Water Spring and ancient Dirang Jong (Fort). It is the base camp for
trekking to Gorichen peak and other bird watching trails

Afternoon visit the natural hot spring, Apple gardens and the Yak Breeding farms.

Day 07: Dirang / Bhalukpong (140 kms, 5 hrs drive)

Morning after breakfast return to Bhalukpong.
Arrive and check in at the tourist lodge.

Rest of the time free to explore the nature by your own.

Overnight at tourist lodge.

Day 08: Bhalukpong / Guwahati Depart. (255 Kms, 5 hrs drive)

Morning after breakfast depart for Guwahati airport to catch the flight for onward destination.

Tour ends.

Governor visits Lumla, thrills over scenic beauty

Itanagar, Aug 4: It was like seeing true Arunachal Pradesh, said State Governor Gen J.J Singh
while driving from Tawang to Lumla in Tawang district on July 31 last. The thrill and scenic
beauty of the area is just wonderful, he added.

The Governor, who is on a visit to western part of Arunachal Pradesh, has undertaken a tour by
land route to experience the excitement along with other infrastructure constrains on the route
faced by the tourists, reports PRO to Governor.

During his hour-long stay at Lumla, before returning to Itanagar, the Governor visited the under
construction Tara Devi statue. Interacting with the construction committee of the project, Gen
Singh expressed his hope that the statue, when completed in next two years, will definitely bring
peace and prosperity to the region as it will attract pilgrims and other believers along with tourist
to picturesque town of Lumla. It will be like our famous Tawang Monastery, he added. Making
cash contribution towards that statue, Gen Singh expressing his desired to visit it once
completed.

The members of the committee informed that statue of Goddess Tara Devi, once completed can
be seen even from Sela Pass on clear sky as also it will be seen from neighboring Bhutan.
As always concerned about the education of the children, accompanied by the first lady
Anupama Singh, the Governor inspected the under construction Eklaviya School, Lumla. Going
through the construction details, he urged upon the engineers to put on their best for the best
construction in this far-flung area. Your effort will definitely encourage in giving quality
education to our rural children, he pointed.

Earlier in the morning before leaving for Lumla, Gen Singh, who is the Honorary Colonel of the
Maratha Light Infantry paid homage to the statue of Chhatarpati Shivaji Maharaj at Tawang,
which was unveiled on June 3 last.

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains

(From Tezpur to Bomdila)

A typical bomboo house in Tezpur suburb

The trip to Arunachal Pradesh began with a misadventure and ended with a hair raising
one. After having been assured that we would commence with our journey at 6.30 A.M. sharp in
the morning, we got up early and after the morning chores & ablutions, were all rearing to go for
the famed destination. In order to be doubly sure, I went to the agency at 6.15 A.M. and was
assured by its proprietor who goes by the nick-name of ‘Bhuttu’ that the vehicle was ready and
we should check out of the hotel. On his advice I immediately rushed back to the hotel, cleared
the check and was out on the street for the vehicle to arrive. After an irksome wait for about 15
minutes or so on the road, I asked the proprietor regarding the status of the vehicle who informed
me that the vehicle which had arrived last night was being washed. Assured, we kept our vigil
for another 15 minutes, but there was no sight of the said vehicle. By this time, the proprietor had
slinked away and when I asked the person manning the counter, he gave the routine reply that the
vehicle was being washed. We waited for a further period of about 20 minutes, sitting like a
destitute on the road, akin to having been thrown out of the Hotel for non payment? My patience
had really been tried by then and I went to the counter once again and asked the counter clerk to
connect me to the proprietor. Having, got him over his mobile phone, I gave him a piece of my
mind and asked him that in case he did not have the vehicle, he should tender back my advance
payment made to him, so that I could negotiate with some other operator. The rebuke worked
and dirty Sumo arrived with the outer side covered with filth and the rest all of you well
understand. I got the boys to thrown a few buckets of water on the vehicle and then boarded it at
around 7.30 A.M. and started for the onward journey.

Nameri National Park entry

The driver who was an irksome fellow and his antics I have already described in the
travelogue of this series (titled – General Information), firstly made a detour to his house with
the excuse of fetching warm clothing for the journey ahead. But this detour was pleasant as we
got an opportunity to have a peek at the mighty Bharmaputra River and at the local village
houses. However, after this brief detour, we commenced with our journey for our first
destination for the day in Arunchal Pradesh i.e. Bhalukpong. After getting the tank upped with
45 liters of diesel from Tezpur we raced towards our destination going past lush green fields with
tinge of moisture in the air and looming black clouds in the distance. After journeying for and
hour & a half we reached Balipara, which is a junction for traveling towards multifarious
destinations in Arunachal Pradesh. Having gone past Balipara we entered the famed ‘Nameri
National Park’, home to white-winged wood duck (Deo Hanh ) apart from the black bear, deer
and elephants, which sometimes move onto the main highways too during the night. As we
entered the Nameri area, it had started to rain heavily and as we were about to enter Bhalukpong,
the back tyre of the vehicle got punctured, although I noticed the same instantly, the driver did
not seem bothered. However, on my insistence he stopped the vehicle and reported that my
presumption was correct, but in the same breath blurted out that the owner would not bear his
medical expenses in case he fell ill and therefore, decided to take the vehicle at snails pace for
the next 2 Kms. or so till he reached Bhalukpong. I was apprehensive that the rim of the vehicle
would get damaged in the process, but he assured me that the vehicle usually carried far more
weight when it traveled with ten people & luggage on board, with only the four of us in the
vehicle, it was almost like running an empty vehicle.

The Jia Bhareli River at Bhalukpong

Orchids at Tipi Orchidarium

We reached Bhalukpong at around 9.30 A.M. and after getting the necessary entry
formalities completed, we got ready to fix the punctured tyre and install the extra tyre carried by
the vehicle. But to our utter dismay, we found that that the extra tyre was totally worn out and
the punctured tyre, due to abuse by the driver, had been damaged beyond repair. The driver rang
up the proprietor of the firm immediately, who assured us of sending a fresh tyre on priority. To
while away the time, we entered a local restaurant to have our breakfast and consumed the same
at leisurely pace, assuming that the tyre would arrive in two hours time i.e. time taken by our
vehicle to reach Bhalukpong. But when the tyre did to arrive even at 12.30 P.M and the driver
was also slinking away out of eyesight leaving us stranded, I rang up the proprietor myself and
sought an explanation for putting such tyre as extra in such treacherous conditions. However,
after a long wait which seemed like eons, the tyre arrived at 1.15 P.M and we commenced with
our journey at 1.30 P.M., having wasted one hour in the morning at Tezpur itself and four hours
in Bhalukpong. This five hour delay cost us dearly as we had to give a miss to some destinations
we had planned to visit during the course of the day.

Dense jungles beyond Bhalukpong & clouds gathering

The West Kameng River

Getting past Sessa - clouds enveloping the mountains all around

Beyond Bhalukpong, at a distance of 05 Kms. lies Tipi situated on the banks of Jia
Bhareli river or Kameng river which is famous for its Orchidarium. The Orchadarium house a
variety of indigenous varieties of orchids inside green houses as well as maintains the species in
primitive conditions, having been repatriated from places inside Arunachal Pradesh itself, but
now endangered. Across the Kameng river is the Pakhui Wildlife Sanctuary, which appeared to
be an interesting stop, where one can linger awhile, but due to paucity of time we had to drop
this destination from our itinerary. Further ahead the road gradually snakes upwards and leads
through many a small village strewn across. Our next stop was at a non descript place called
Sessa from where the road bifurcates to another place called Seppa, inhabited by the Bungun
tribe who are considered to be vicious & notorious by the locals all around and the drivers dread
to travel to this place. The driver after having partaken lunch and after some honking of the horn
by my daughter, we started our journey beyond Sessa. The next destination that we reached was
a small wayside ‘Durga Mandir’ maintained by the armed forces, before passing by the famous
Nechiphu pass (zero point) situated at an altitude of 6000 feet/52 Kms. from Bhalukpong.
Having crossed the pass, the road started its descent till it reached Tenga Cantonment at height of
4000 feet, in between we had a brief stop at a place called Nag Mandir where the details of
vehicles etc. are entered by the local Police authorities. Enroute one can also visit Jamiri, which
is at a distance of 67 Kms. from Bhalukpong and is famous for Fishing, Picnic spots, Megalithic
stone and Rock climbing. Rupa, which is one of the sub-divisions of Bomdila and situated at a
distance of 77 Kms. from Bhalukpong, this place offers views of natural Valley, Rupa Gonpa,
Chilli-pam Monastery and the Wild life sanctuary (Near Singchung) and other places like
Shergaon etc. The route to the Rupa valley bifurcates from Tenga and is another 10-12 Kms.
from Tenga. However, having lost five hours and with the evening approaching fast and
consequently the availability of daylight deteriorating rapidly, we had no other option left, but to
bye-pass this destination as well. It was late in the evening when we reached Bomdila township
and after seeking out a Hotel i.e. Hotel Tashi Den, we were ready to retire for the night. The rain
& winds that lashed the township during the day, had brought down the temperatures
considerably and we had to seek the warmth of the room heater to get cozy and drown a few
cups of Coffee & drank hot water served by the Hotel staff, before we could gather energy to go
and gorge out the dinner. The room being cozy and comfortable, we had a very pleasant nights
sleep.

The Nechiphu Pass - all mist & rain

Nag Mandir - just before passing by Tenga (being Military base did not photograph the area)

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains

(Around Bomdila)

View of the greater Himalayas from Bomdila top

The next morning offered the sight of a breathtakingly beautiful Bomdila township, which is
situated at an altitude or 3,500 meters or 8500 feet, nestled high in the Eastern Himalayas and is
the headquarters of the West Kameng district in Arunachal Pradesh and is at a distance of 165
Kms. from Tezpur. The township being the District headquarters naturally has all the modern
amenities including Banks, ATMs, and STD Booths strewn around alongwith a plethora of
Government Offices & Institutions. This lofty paradise is snow clad for most part of the year
especially the winter months and makes a delightful destination to get away to in summer as we
experienced the chill during the previous night.

A view of the Bomdila Monastery

The town is surrounded by lush apple orchards that stretch far and wide. Since we were not
hard pressed for the next leg of the journey, which was to culminate at Dirang, situated at a
distance of only 42 Kms. away from Bomdila and takes only around one & half hours to two
hours, if driven to leisurely. We got up from bed and after having tea and having refreshed
ourselves and gorged in the morning breakfast, we started our little expedition of unraveling
Bomdila. Bomdila itself is a tiny township, but it is spread over a wide ridge that straddles a
mountain. Bomdila, like other towns in the area, has a strong Buddhist and Tibetan influence.
There are a fair number of gompas (small monasteries) here and the town has quaint little eating-
places where you can savour traditional Tibetan cuisine plus the all time favourite momos and
thoopas. The market is small but packed with many local goods, especially the Craft Centre at
Bomdila turns out a range of superbly designed dragon carpets that are on sale. Also produced at
the centre are traditional thangka wall hangings, paintings and masks. Most of these are
intricately crafted with minute details and varied themes. However, since we had been to Sikkim
during last year, we found that the market at Gangtok was far more enticing than the one here.

Front view of the Bomdila Monastery

The Bomdilla monastery is situated above the township and commands a panoramic
view of the township and valleys below. The monastery is under renovation and the newly
constructed Monastery is very colourful and lends a very special sparkle to the entire environ and
is very soothing for the eyes. We laundered around the monastery, watching the monks
performing their daily chores and appreciating the riot of colours spread by the nature through its
many blooming flowers.

Another view of the greater Himalayas from Bomdila top

Next we ascended up to Bomdila top i.e. the highest point on the Bomdila mountain
spur and also houses the defense telecommunications tower, but the entry is barred. A army one
tonne truck was grunting its way up with its load of water tank filled to the brim and the amount
of water it was spilling compelled us to think aloud as to how much water will actually reach its
destination on the hill top? After some persuasive honking by the driver, as the road was too
narrow to let two vehicles pass or overtake simultaneously, the driver of the army truck relented
and let us get past! We reached the top without further ado and the sight was just breathtaking,
whereas on one side was the range of snow laden mountain range and on the other the gathering
of clouds at the Nechiphu pass, which appeared to be mattress of soft white cotton strewn over,
we all were really mesmerized. Having clicked with our cameras, my wife shooting family
photographs with her free-focus camera, my son with his Digital camera following my foot-steps
and myself using my SLR, Digital Video Camera as well as the standard Sony Handycam, the
driver too expressed his surprise at the collection of Cameras being carried by us, we started with
our descent back.

Clouds nestling in the region of Nephichu pass as seen from Bomdila top

A number of treks and hikes into the mountains also start from Bomdila. From simple
little walking trails to more strenuous treks, Bomdila is at the hub of hiking activity in the
Kameng region. So we came back home with a little bit of Bomdila in your suitcase - and a lot
of Bomdila in our hearts! (as promised over the internet).

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains

(Around Dirang)

Birds eye view of Dirang

DIRANG, situated between Bomdila and Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh is about 42 Kms. from
Bomdila. It is at a much lower altitude than Bomdila and thus, the weather is much milder &
comfortable, a constant wind blows along the river valley making it a very pleasant place to stay.
After having lapped up the nature’s grandeur spread out at Bomdila top, we slowly descended
towards the valley below. Dirang is placed at an altitude of 1497 meters/4910 feet, as against
Bomdila, which is placed at an altitude of 8500 feet. This particular portion of the route,
especially the one just below Bomdilla and another part near Munna Camp, are prone to
landslides, as the roads that cut through them are through mountains which are primarily
composed of small rocks & mud and thus, even a heavy downpour can bring down a mud slide
and cut-off the road link. Munna has a small village which appears to be placed right in middle
of the river, Dirang Chu (‘Chu’ means ‘River’ in local dialect) which runs parallel to the main
highway all the way upto & beyond Dirang. The other notable feature noticed in this part were
the cultivated fields, which unlike the mountains of north India, are not terraced, but placed on
the slope, probably due to much more heavy rainfall in this part as compared to north Indian
mountains.

Villages & fields - a typical Monpa Village enroute Dirang

View of Munna Camp

Dirang as such does not have a whole lot to see but it has an intrinsic spectacular scenic beauty
and an ideal place to rest for a while. Therefore, in order to give our tired souls some rest and to
replenish our energies, we decided to stay put in Dirang for three nights. However, when we
reached Dirang we found out that none of the hotels in the main bazaar area of the township did
not have any rooms available for three days at a stretch. There are a plethora of hotels available
in the Bazaar area like Ma Lakshmi Lodge, Moon Lodge etc. but they were just basic and not at
all appealing, as they appeared to be unkempt, dirty & congested devoid of proper ventilation.
This unavailability of rooms in the main bazaar area ultimately turned out to be a boon for us, so
far as living conditions were meant and we were referred to a nicely spruced complex called the
‘Tourist Lodge’, which is placed next to Hotel Pemaling, the only decent Hotel in Dirang. I have
already described my experience regarding the Tourist Lodge in my very first part of the present
series of travelogues and would not like to dwell on it, any further, in this regard. However, I
have learnt one good lesson while staying in Dirang, which I would like to share with my readers
i.e. experienced gained by interacting with many families/drivers etc. who transited through
Dirang during the few days that I spent in there, I found out that most of the journeys undertaken
to this region was best undertaken with tour operators, for the following reasons – (i) They have
personal contacts in this region; (ii) They move in groups, which makes it all the more secure;
(iii) Most of them travel with a cook in tow and rent kitchen of the Hotel where they put up their
guests and provide them meals, which the tourists are akin to, thus making the journey more
wholesome.

View of the main entry to Dirang Dzong

View of the outer periphery of Dirang Dzong

Dirang offers some interesting spots which a traveller can explore and the most striking
one is the Dirang Dzong (fort), with an array of 500-year-old stone houses located in its ruins,
one can experience first hand, the culture & ethos of the local Monpas. This 17th century
monument represents the authority of the monastic rule through which the Monpas carried out
their public administration during the past. It was also the centre of military and judicial
activities concerning the entire population within its jurisdiction. The DZONG (fort) was built in
Dirang in 1831. It is at a strategically located hill top and comprises of an array of four storied
fortified stone buildings in which the entire village could take refuge at the time of war. It is the
only one of its kind in the entire area. The two-storied fort was built out of huge stone slabs and
wooden logs. The wooden gate leading to the fort is decorated with local architectural designs.

View of the Kiwi Orchard

View of the Hot Water Spring in Dirang

The other local attractions, which the tourists visit, are the National Yak Research Center
(situated half-way between Dirang and Tawang). The Regional Apple Nursery & Kiwi Farms are
situated across the river valley and one has to cross over through a small bridge. The entire
township which is concentrated over an area of less than a kilometer, offers a good view of the
topography of the township, apart from views of sloped farms with view of little wonderful
villages scattered around the hills. The other famed tourist spot is the Hot Water Spring, which
is also the main attraction for locals, who supposedly take bath in the Hot Springs as its water is
said to possess curative properties. However, I was most dejected after having undertaken a long
trek down from the main road, as an Ecological Camp has come up at the site, with a Cafeteria
right in front of the Hot Spring, which is not only blocks the view of the Hot Spring, but also
creates more ecological hazards, rather than preserving the ecology there for which it is meant &
sounds. The local environment department needs to take a look at this, before it gets too late to
redeem the hot spring.

View of the famous Sangti Valley

View of the traditional water flour mill or Chuskar

At a distance of 12 Kms. beyond Dirang is the famed Sangti Valley, Sangti is dotted with
numerous picturesque spots, which are ideal for holidaymakers. One of the prime attractions is a
sheep breeding farm. The other one being the Chuskar (traditional water mill), a flour mill
system using hydro power, which is used by the villagers to grind the millets. The Sangti valley
is the favored tourist destination for avid bird watchers as well as it is home to the endangered
back necked cranes during winter months which come to nest here from Tibet.

View of typical Monpa house or a Cher Khyem

Dirang is also used as a Base camp for trekking & bird watching at Mandla or Madla
Phudong (local name), it is situated at a distance of about 28 Kms. from Dirang. The place is
situated on a mountain ridge high up, with few villages strung far apart. It is a real ecologist’s
delight and although we could hear a variety of birds singing, but could not spot one because of
the dense foliage all around and thus, no photographs. Yet the visit to this spot was rewarding in
itself as we could see some virgin forests and observe typical villages & villagers at work
enroute. A Monpa village comprises of many houses which are locally called Khyem and are
generally rectangular in shape & double storied made of wooden posts & beams and walls are
constructed of crudely cut stones smeared with mud. However, the poor people live in houses
constructed entirely out of bamboo and are called Cher-Khyem.
Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains
(Dirang to Tawang - a memorable journey)

View of the road above Senge

This part of the journey was one of the most memorable in the entire tour as the scenic
beauty was like a luxurious visual treat thrown out by the nature for us to savor. The journey
started early in the morning at 6.30 A.M and as we went past Dirang, the river Dirang Chu kept
company with us for quite some distance with the gurgling & dancing shimmering water
jumping from rock to rock with gay abandon. Gradually the small villages with shops became
sparse as we gained height and slowly we gained height the clouds appeared to be drifting below
us and it appeared that we were riding on back of the famed ‘Udan Khatola’!

View of Baisakhi from road above

The first stop enroute to Tawang was a place called ‘Senge’, it is placed at an altitude of
around 9000 feet and offers spectacular views of the valley below. Here we felt as if we were on
top of the clouds, with the whiffs of clouds drifted below in the valley, slowly traversing it and
gradually gaining height as the day temperature rose with sun rising on top of the mountains
above. Since Senge is a transit post of the military, no photography is permitted in its actual
vicinity. Next comes a place called ‘Baisakhi’, which is another military station and vehicles are
not permitted to stop. As the day temperature rises in the valley below, the hot air moves
upwards towards the cooler environs, bringing with it the clouds and simultaneously, the cold
mountain winds moves towards the valley below and thus, results in the strong but pleasant
surface winds that we encountered at Dirang. This movement of clouds creates a very dense fog
between Senge & Baisakhi, especially during the afternoons, which lasts till late in the evenings
and all the local drivers are well aware of this phenomenon factually, if not scientifically. The
drifting clouds in the valley below you, is such a surreal experience! That it is very difficult to
describe its beauty in words.

View of the famed Sela Pass

View of the Paradise Lake at Sela Pass

Having got past Baisakhi, one suddenly comes up to the SELA PASS,which is the world's
second highest motor-able pass at 13,700 ft. height. It was cold and windy when we reached
Sela, even with the winter clothing on, the wind seemed to penetrate through all layers of
clothing’s and setting chill through the body. We took shelter in a small residence cum stall run
by a local family and the warmth of the wooden stove was the most comfortable aspect. In order
to shoot a few pictures, I ventured out with the ear muffs on to avoid cold wind, but the effort
was every bit rewarding as the picturesque setting of the Paradise Lake at this height with the
reflections & refractions of light was a stunning experience. From the sign post put up by the
Border Road Organization (BRO for short), which maintains this road throughout the year, I
could decipher the way towards ‘Chabri la’, leading to the famous Bangajung Gompa. The
weather clears, as well as deteriorates very quickly at these heights and as the weather had
started worsening, we thought it wise to proceed ahead immediately.

View of the main entry to Jaswant Garh

Inside the main memorial at Jaswant Garh

The next stop was at JASWANT GARH ( 14kms. from Sela Pass), the War Memorial raised to
pay homage to Jaswant Singh, a soldier who received the Mahavir Chakra awarded by the Govt.
of India for bravery Posthumously. It is a place where patriotic emotions of all Indians find a
natural expression and the national anthem plays with all its fervor in your sub-conscious mind.
There are two stories that make rounds regarding this place, one the official line that is enshrined
in the epitaph erected by the Army, which states that in face of heavy MMG (Medium Machine
Gun), which the Chinese had placed at a vantage point to obliterate the post after their two of
their attacks had been beaten back by our armed forces. This placement of the MMG hardy 40
meters from the post was slowly tilting the balance in favour of the Chinese. Three brave
soldiers, namely RFN Jaswant Singh Rawat, LNK Trilok Singh Negi (Vir Chakra, Posthumous)
and RFN Gopal Singh Gusain (Mahavir Chakra) of the 4th Garwal Rifles equipped with most
basic arms & grenades moved towards the Chinese position and from a distance of about 15
meters they threw Grenades into the Chinese bunker and charged at it. They found two Chinese
soldiers dead and third dying but still holding on to the MMG. RFN Jaswant Singh Rawat
snatched the MMG from the Chinese with both his hands and started crawling back towards his
trench, however, a Chinese bullet caught him in his head just as he was about to enter the trench,
similarly, LNK Trilok Singh Negi was also caught in a burst of automatic Chinese firearm and
RFN Gopal Singh Gusain, though badly injured, dragged back the MMG and this changed the
battle scene altogether and the Chinese had to beat a retreat, leaving behind about 300 dead
soldiers and many arms & weapons. For this act of bravery on face of almost abominable force,
the 4th Garwhal Rifles was awarded the battle honors of “Nuranang” in 1962, the only unit to
have been awarded such an honor during the Chinese aggression. The other story, which the
locals tell you and has become a local folklore, is that this brave son of the country showed
unmatched valor by fighting and holding the invading Chinese for 72 hours, all alone with the
help of his local female friend called Sela (in whose name the famous Sela pass is named). Both
of them hoodwinked the Chinese into believing that there was a big military presence in the area,
as they used to fire simultaneously from two or more locations using ropes/wires to activate the
guns. It was but a tryst with destiny that the Uncle of Sela, who used to provide for food and
other essentials to these two, was caught by Chinese guards and on interrogation spilled the
beans. Whereas, Sela was killed in a grenade attack, Jaswant Singh Rawat continued to fight till
the last and when his bullets finished, he shot himself in the head with the last bullet. The
Chinese were so pissed at his overtures that they beheaded him posthumously and carried away
his head as a prized possession, the RFN had thus indented his mark in the history before he met
the martyr's end.

View of the Jung falls

Having gorged ourselves with some snacks & coffee at the defense run canteen at Jasawant
Garh, we then proceeded for the famous Nuranang or Jung Water falls, the picturesque scene of
the famous film ‘Koyla’ (starring Shah Rukh Khan & Madhuri Dixit). The fall is indeed awe
inspiring, as it falls for almost 100-150 meters or more from the top to bottom. However, it is not
only the height that is immense, the volume of water that cascades down in an enormous din is
astounding and the first view of the falls, made my jaws fall wide apart. The source of water that
feeds this immense falls, is the paradise lake at Sela & mountain streams running in Sela-Bunga-
Jung ranges, the water ultimately falls into Tawang Chu’s (Chu means River) left bank, which in
turn runs out into Bhutan, before ultimately draining out into the Bramhaputra.

Panoramic view of the Nuranag or Jung falls

Thereafter, we made our way towards Tawang, which was our final destination and completed
this last leg of 40 Kms. from Jung falls in about one & half hours time.
Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains
(Tawang – the last Shangri la)

A panoramic view of the Ganden Namgyal Lhaste or Tawang monastery

Nestled in the lap of Himalayas, at 11,500 feet above sea level, lies the famous Tawang
monastery also called the land of the Monpas. A colorful canvas against a backdrop of the
nature, it fills one's mind with spiritual bliss. Apart from the Tawang Monastery, the other
important places that one can visit are the War Memorial & Crafts Centre within the precincts of
the township. Having rested for the day after arriving from Dirang, we went for an excursion of
the township the next day.

View of the Tawang town centre

Tawang Monastery - The legendry 17th century Tawang Monastery, perched atop a hill,
juxtaposed against the clear blue sky, its first sight itself is an ethereal bliss. The Tawang or
Ganden Namgyal Lhatse is the second largest monastery in Asia, next only to the one at Lahsa in
Tibet. It is located atop a hillock at a height of about 10,000 feet, overlooking the Tawang Valley
and resembles a fortress. With a history of over 400 years, having been founded by Lama Lodroe
Gyamtso in 1681, the monastery is the largest of its kind in the country and controls seventeen
Gompas in the region. It is the fountainhead of spiritual life for the followers of the Gelugpa sect
of the Mahayana School of Buddhism. It is the fountainhead of the spiritual life of the Monpas
and the Shedukpens. The Tawang monastery, apart from housing almost 800 Lamas with their
living quarters and a huge kitchen to feed them also encompasses within its precincts the main
prayer hall, called the Dukhang, which houses the huge 28 feet high gilded statute of Lord
Buddha. The Monastery follows a strict hierarchy and from the lowest order it ascends in the
following manner – (i) Lama; (ii) Ghesi; (iii) Galong & finally the highest in the order i.e.
Rimpoche. Tawang is also associated with the famous Torgya festival, which is held in the 11th
Monpa month called the Dawa Chukchipah (i.e. December to January as per the Gregorian
calendar). The festival brings out the Monpas from far and wide in all their colourful finery. The
festival provides ample opportunities for the Gompas to sell an array of all their wares.

A birds eye view of Tawang Monastery & township

View of the statute of Buddha in the main prayer hall

Main entry gate of the Tawang Monastery

A wall panel inside the monastery

The main prayer hall outside view of the building

One of the artefacts kept in the museum maintained by the Monastery

Another artefact - a mask - kept in the museum maintained by the Monastery

Another artefact kept in the museum maintained by the Monastery
Tawang War Memorial – Built by the armed forces, as a monument dedicated to the memories of
all those brave soldiers, who perished against the uncalled for offensive by the Chinese, while
defending their motherland in 1962. It is a monument, where a 40 feet high Stupa has been built
and houses many memorabilia of the 1962 Sino-Indian war, giving a glimpse into history of what
our troops had to face while defending this god-forsaken land. It is situated about one kilometer
from the town centre, below the famous Nehru Market.

Front view of the Tawang War Memorial

Standard Indian army equipment issued to soldiers in 1962 Sino-Indian war

A photograph of the terrain in 1962

Chinese army issue - automatic weapons in 1962 war against our vintage WW-I issue -
Himalayan blunder?

Crafts Centre – Situated at a distance of about 2 kilometers from the heart of town. The Craft
Centre has been established with the purpose of promoting the manufacture of local handicrafts
and one can buy thangkas, carpets, masks, wooden bowls, carved wooden tables (known as
chok-tse) and many other trinkets at reasonable rates. It is advisable to purchase from the craft
centre only as the local shops in the town centre price their goods at very exorbitant rates.

Ugyenling Monastery – This place is situated about five kilometers from the town centre, was
established by Ugyen Sangpo, the youngest brother of Pemalingpa, the famous Treasure
Revealer (1450-1521). It was the first of the three Nyingmapa monasteries built in the Mon
Tawang region by him, the other two being tose of Sangyeling and Tsogyeling. However, this
monastery is most famous amongst the three, as the sixth Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso was
born here in 1683. However, as of now only a shadow of its former grandeur can be seen as the
sixth Dalai Lama was deposed off in 1706 by one Lajang Khan and his forces, which was sent
against Bhutan also invaded Tawang and destroyed the temple to obliterate the memory of the
Sixth Dalai Lama.

Enchanting Himalayas around Tawang

(Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains- Part VIII)

View of Tawang from the road above

After having visited the places within Tawang, we chose to explore the areas situated above
Tawang. With its cascading waterfalls, and glistening snow-white peaks, Tawang brings you
closer to Mother Nature and was the most memorable & enchanting exploration of this tour.
However, except for the Bramhi Ani Gumpha, foreigners are not permitted to travel to this part
of the district. The inner line permit issued to the Indian citizens are also strictly checked and
regulated beyond Tawang township area.

Brama Dungchung Ani Gumpha

View of the monastery tankha paining inside

Brama Dungchung Ani Gompa – The road above Tawang bi-furcates, one leading towards the
Ani Gompa and the other towards Sungester or Madhuri lake and Bumla. The Monpas have a
tradition of nunneries called "Ani Gompas". Traditionally at least one girl from a family joined
an Ani Gompa. However this practice no longer exists. The nunnery is situated about 5 Kms.
towards north & above the Tawang township and also called the Ganden Thekchen Choeling.
This nunnery was founded by a Buddhist monk named Kachen Yeshi Galek in 1826. The main
prayer hall of the monastery houses the images of Lord Buddha, Avalokesetesvera etc. The
nunnery houses about 40 nuns.

View of the Panggang Homa Tso or Heart Shape Lake

Panggang Homa Tso – After retreating back to the point where the road bifurcates, we proceeded
towards the famed ‘Sungester or Madhuri Lake’. We were directed to produce the ‘Inner Line
Permit’ at the entry check post and only after due verification, permitted to proceed ahead. The
first of the first alpine lakes (Tso in local parlance) that we encountered was called the Panggang
Homa Tso which literally translates into Grassy(Panggang) Lower(Homa) Lake. Because of its
shape, this lake is also known as the ‘Heart shaped Lake’. The view from this lake is ethereal and
the view of the Ghesi La (La in local parlance means Mountain) & distant Sela Pass juxtaposed
against the valley stuns your senses.

Panoramic view of the P T Tso or Panggang Teng Tso

Panggang teng Tso – This alpine lake is situated about 14 Kms. from Tawang at an altitude of
4100 meters or approximately 13,500 feet and literally translates to Grassy Meadow Lake also
popularly known as the P.T Tso. The lake is situated almost 100 to 150 meters below the main
road and being at such height, the air is rarefied with low oxygen content and therefore, it is not
advisable to trek down to the lake side, as the ascent back to the road becomes really laborious
and on quite a few occasions (as told by the driver), tourists have had to be rendered medical aid.
The view is really spectacular of a big lake juxtaposed against the deep blue sky and monstrous
mountains in the backdrop with Yaks grazing below. The area beyond are replete with small
alpine lakes of all shapes & sizes and the locals tell you that there are about 108 such lakes in the
vicinity.

View of the Nagku La Tso

Nagku La Tso– A few kilometers beyond P.T. Tso likes the lake whose name literally translates
to Snake Mountain Lake. It is a small lake which is guarded by a small mountain spur on one
side but offers a beautiful view because of its overall natural composition of the surrounding
landscape.

View of the surreal Sungestar or Madhuri Lake

Sungester Tso – The ascent continued for another few kilometers upto a junction from where the
road again bifurcates, one going toward the Lake and the other towards Bumla. After making
another round of entries at the check-point, which is situated at about 14,500 feet the road started
descending towards the lake which is about 42 Kms. from Tawang. This lake has become all the
more popular after shooting of a dance sequence for the movie ‘Koyla’ (starring Shah Rukh
Khan & Madhuri Dixit) in 1996 and has since been rechristened as ‘Madhuri Lake’. The
original name of the place was Jong-nog-tseir and was a grazing ground for cattle, till a lake was
formed in 1973, after an earthquake caused a mountain side to slide down and block the road of
the stream flowing through it. The trunks of bare trees standing in the middle of the lake like its
sentinels provides for a surreal visual.

Chum chung Meadow or Dung flower

Jumguyu Meadow
Beyond Tawang as the nature is still preserved in its primordial form and is replete with a
variety of alpine vegetation endemic to this area. Some of the interesting flora was apart from the
Rhododendrons of various hues & colors, some flowers which were growing in abundance. One
such flower that covered entire hill sides was a yellow colored flower on small herbs which the
locals call as the Chum Chung Meadow, which literally means as the dung (Chum Chung) flower
(Meadow in local parlance means flower). Another flower that abounds in the area whose fruits
are also edible, is a white colored flowering shrub called the Jumguyu Meadow.

View of the rivulet that feeds Sungester Lake

During this trip, the driver who was not only reasonable in his rates, but also a thorough
gentleman, called Tolo (Mobile Phone No.09436678726), who took only Rs.1500/- from us for
this particular trip. He met us outside the Taxi stand and was a complete contrast with the other
drivers who were quoting Rs.2500/- upwards for the same trip and Rs.1000/- for destinations
within Tawang, whereas he had charged only Rs.600/- for the same. I am putting a word on his
behalf because such persons need to be encouraged against those who only seek to fleece &
exploit the tourists.

Mystique of gompas in the mist

Partha S. Banerjee

The giant gilded Buddha in the Tawang monastery

The giant gilded Buddha in the
Tawang monastery

THE lakes there in those remote misty mountains tend to get named after leading Indian ladies.
High in the northeastern Himalayas, beyond Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh, the sublime, blissful
environs of the PT Tso (tso in Tibetan means lake) couldn’t be further away from the fast-paced
athletic world of the "Payoli Express," the lady who almost won an Olympic medal for India. For
that matter, what indeed could scenic Madhuri lake evoke that is at once beautiful, glamorous
and sensual. What could lie beneath its watery vestment?

The roots of tall, ancient trees, for one. Madhuri lake, 42 km from Tawang, was formed in 1950,
following a major earthquake. Its bed, once a forested slope, sank in the tremor, taking with it the
forest of tall pine trees. As water filled in, the trees died but their bare lofty trunks remained,
standing sentinel over the serene blue lake that’s encircled by high mountains.
|EARLIER COLUMN

Image makeover for Goa

Ervell E. Menezes
December 8, 2002

Finding peace in picturesque Pondicherry

V. S. Mahajan
December 1, 2002

Bowled over by beautiful beaches at Bhitarkanika

Richa Bansal
November 17, 2002

Florence: Where antiquity jostles with romance

Sushil Kaur
November 10, 2002

Tirupati: A shrine enriched with the wealth of faith

Amar Chandel
October 27, 2002

Darma Valley: Adventure & nature lovers’ haven

Tarun K. Roy
October 6, 2002

Dadra and Nagar Haveli: A date with pristine beauty and tribal mystery
Usha Bande
September 29, 2002

Smitten forever by scenic splendour of Sikkim

Sanjeev Sharma
September 22, 2002

Get ready to visit pretty Spiti

Partha S. Banerjee
September 8, 2002

The lure of Niagara Falls has not dimmed

Nutan Sehgal
August 25, 2002
Priceless artefacts hidden away from tourists’ eyes
Shona Adhikari
August 18, 2002
Goa: Sensual, salubrious, secluded
Partha S. Banerjee
August 11, 2002
A town in which the archaic and modern meet
Mohan Bhatt
July 28, 2002
Magic of the monsoon trek to Bhimashankar
Sarvesh
July 21, 2002
Stone Age man lived in these rock shelters
N. P. Mehta
June 30, 2002

Encircled by towering cliffs, the Madhuri Lake is extremely picturesque.

Encircled by towering cliffs, the Madhuri Lake is extremely picturesque.

It’s a sight so picturesque, it would catch anybody’s imagination. As it did of the director of the
Hindi film Koyla (1997) who chose it as locale for a sequence starring Madhuri Dixit. There,
now you know how the lake got its popular name; its official name is Sangetsar lake though few
use it these days. As for PT Tso, that’s Army abbreviation. The lake’s actual name is Pangong-
Tang Tso but the Army, which has a big presence in the area (being so close to the Chinese
border) and which maintains the roads, can’t be bothered with such long-winded foreign-
sounding appellations. So, PT Tso. (With due apologies to P.T. Usha).

Visits to the Madhuri (Sangetsar) lake and PT Tso are excursions that you might take while on a
visit to Tawang, Arunachal’s best-known tourist destination. Thanks to its remoteness (it takes
two days to reach the mountain town from Tezpur in Assam), Tawang still remains a largely
unspoilt destination. What’s more, it has attractions few resorts can match.

TRAVEL TIPS

Access: Fly from Calcutta to Tezpur (Alliance, twice weekly) and hire a taxi for the two-day trip
to Tawang (365 km) with night halt at Bomdila. Taxis typically charges Rs 1300/day incl. fuel;
shared Sumos cost Rs 350/person. Tezpur can also be reached by bus from Guwahati which has
daily flights and trains to Calcutta and Delhi.

Accommodation: Bomdila has an excellent government tourist lodge, there’s a larger one at
Tawang. The Shipyang Pong and Shangrila are Bomdila’s two best hotels; in Tawang, try
Buddha, Shangrila, MacLeodgunj or NEFA hotel. In Tezpur, Luit Hotel is the best option. The
most you would pay in any of these hotels is Rs 700 for a double room.

Best season: October to end December, March-May.

Take the journey, to begin with. An hour and half beyond Tezpur and the road enters jungle
country. The mountains come soon after, as you cross into Arunachal at the border town of
Bhalukpong. Thick fog often shrouds the hill road at places, giving an ethereal feel to the journey
(though, with visibility falling, it’s no fun for the driver) but as the vegetation on the mountain
slopes thins out and the military encampments begin, the mists begin to fade away. By early
afternoon, you get your first view of Bomdila, the district town perched high on the mountain. It
is a long, tortuous climb before Bomdila (alt. 9,000 ft), with its busy main street and two
gompas, is finally reached.

It was till here that the Chinese had advanced during the 1962 War, and all along the road from
Bomdila to Tawang and beyond are reminders of that invasion: military bunkers and memorials
to brave Indian soldiers who fought the enemy till the bitter end. Dhirang, with an ancient dzong
(fort) and a great view, is the last major village before the road begins its ascent to the Sela Pass
(13,714ft). It’s windy and usually misty up at Sela; the grass cover is thin, there are no trees, and
a little beyond the pass are two glacial lakes where tiny mountain birds flutter about. It’s bleak
and desolate, except for any Army outpost where jawans offer hot tea and snacks.
A Yak grazing in the Tawang valley
A Yak grazing in the Tawang valley

Beyond Sela, the road gently descending, soon catches up with a gurgling stream called
Nuranam; driving by the rivulet, you are bound to spot scores of hairy yaks grazing on its lush
green banks. Presently, the village of Jang comes into view, sprawling over a steep slope down
below. The road bends and twists as it descends to the village with it picturesque farmlands; it is
here that the Nuranam joins the Tawang Chu river, meeting it in a spectacular waterfalls. It is an
awesome sight: The water thundering down the heights in what seems vast irregular bursts, with
swaying wind-blown sprays clouding the adjoining rockface.

Beyond Jang, the road, crossing the Tawang Chu river turns west and follows its course even as
it ascends a slope that finally leads it to Tawang (alt. 10,000 ft). Tawang’s chief attraction, apart
from the surrounding natural beauty, is it’s 400-year-old Buddhist monastery, reputedly the
largest in India. Perched on a hill, the lamasery is a vast collection of ancient yellow-roofed
houses enclosed within an encircling wall and dominated by the three-storey dukhang or
assembly hall, the main temple.

It looks like a huge fortress from a distance but is in fact more akin to an ancient walled
university town. Wrote Verrier Elwin, the famous anthropologist, in the mid-1950s: "The
monastery ... reminded me of a mediaeval Italian town or, in many ways, of Oxford. Here was
the typical old jumble of little streets lined with tall houses; here was the gentle casual
atmosphere which concealed so much formality and protocol." Housing over 300 marooned-
robed lamas and young novitiates (the lamasery’s 60-odd shas — or huts — can accommodate
up to 500 lamas), the monastery is "at the heart of the life and culture" of the Buddhist Monpa
people of Tibetan stock who live in the Tawang valley.

The monastery’s piece de resistance is, of course, the giant gilded Buddha statue in the dukhang.
Over 26 ft high, the richly embellished statue must surely be among the tallest Buddhas housed
within a temple anywhere. In the dukhang, also, is a museum displaying 600-700-year old
statues of Tibetan Buddhist deities made of ‘limar’ (a compound of gold and silver), rare ancient
masks incense urns, jars, an exquisite lamp, thankas, manuscripts, clothes of Mere Lama — the
founder of the monastery — and toys and other possessions of the Sixth Dalai Lama who
happened to hail from Tawang.

His birthplace, some 5 km away, is the site of the Urgelling monastery which dates back to the
15th century; there are many other relics of the Sixth Dalai Lama preserved in this gompa. Other
interesting monasteries in Tawang’s environs include the nunneries (or ani gompas), Bramadung
Chung and Gyangong, small establishments with women lamas, and the famous Taktsang
monastery. Often called the Tiger’s Den Taktsang, 45 km from Tawang, stands on the edge of a
steep forested ridge that is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Guru Padmasambhawa, the
Indian preacher who in the 8th century helped spread Buddhism in Tibet, is believed to have
meditated at the site.

Taktsang is not very far from Madhuri lake; the same road, on way to Tawang, winds through
the "lake district", a high altitude region with sparse vegetation, snowy mountains and a host of
lakes and pools including the PT Tso. There is a lot of military activity here but around the lakes,
especially PT Tso, the atmosphere is magically serene, the silence broken only by the jingling
bells of yaks grazing on the banks.

Unless, of course, a pair or two of the rare golden ducks suddenly appear. Their raucous calls
rents the rarefied air as they echo across the silent desolate hills. It is a piercing cry, yet it seems
strangely illusory here in this tranquillity, amidst the mist and the snows and the shimmering
lakes.
zEMITHANG

The solitary splendour of a stupa in the wilderness

Legends have it that Lama Sangye Pradhar built the colossal Gorsam chorten in an effort to rid
the area of evil spirits, says Partha S. Banerjee

Gorsam Chorten: Surrounded by legends

Gorsam Chorten: Surrounded by legends

IN remotest India, a colossal monument. Who built it and why? Look on it, ye traveller, and
admire! And ask not questions, for the answers are uncertain, lost in documents that have long
disappeared. There are the fables, of course, stories that Monpa grandmothers in Zemithang tell
their grandchildren. Of a lama bearing a monkey name who travelled far and wide in search of
funds and ideas. Before Gorsam Chorten came to be built.

When we first sighted the gigantic chorten (stupa or reliquary monument), it quite took our
breath away. From high on the steep ridge, as our vehicle negotiated innumerable hairpin bends
to approach Zemithang (alt. 7,250 ft) from Tawang (alt. 10,000 ft) in Arunachal Pradesh, the
stupa looked like a white, unusually shaped pyramid. built mistakenly perhaps in a lush green
Himalayan valley.
|EARLIER COLUMN
Close to nature, yet not far from civilisation
Ervell E. Menezes
March 9, 2003
Bewitched by breathtaking Bastar
Partha S. Banerjee
March 2, 2003
Bangkok: The Orient’s most fabled city
Adarsh Batra
February 16, 2003
Kaziranga: An oasis for wildlife
V. P. Prabhakar
February 2, 2003

Munnar: Where tea plantations transform the landscape

Partha S. Banerjee
January 12, 2003

A picturesque princely resort

Tarun K. Roy
December 29, 2002

Mystique of gompas in the mist

Partha S. Banerjee
December 15, 2002
Image makeover for Goa
Ervell E. Menezes
December 8, 2002

Finding peace in picturesque Pondicherry

V. S. Mahajan
December 1, 2002

Bowled over by beautiful beaches at Bhitarkanika

Richa Bansal
November 17, 2002

Florence: Where antiquity jostles with romance

Sushil Kaur
November 10, 2002

Tirupati: A shrine enriched with the wealth of faith

Amar Chandel
October 27, 2002

Darma Valley: Adventure & nature lovers’ haven

Tarun K. Roy
October 6, 2002

Prayer flags in Zemithang

Prayer flags in Zemithang

Closing in, the chorten’s enormous dimensions became more evident. Soaring to a height of 99.7
ft (about the same as a modern ten-storeyed building), Gorsam Chorten towered over the narrow
river valley like a behemoth And it stood there apropos nothing. For nothing around suggested
the site was once a major religious or administrative centre. No ruins of structures remotely
comparable to it anywhere in its vicinity.

The village of Zemithang lay a mile away, an unpretentious Monpa (Buddhists of Tibetan stock)
settlement at the head of a wide scenic valley carved by river Namjang Chu, flowing in from
Tibet. The Tibetan (Chinese) border, in fact, could not have been too far away while Tawang,
famous for its monastery and headquarters of the district with the same name, was 93 km to the
southeast. This was Arunachal’s north-westernmost corner, sandwiched between Bhutan and
China, remote and isolated.

But watched by the gods. Four enormous eyes of the "all seeing Buddha", painted on the
pyramidal crown of Gorsam Chorten, keep vigil in all four directions. much as the ones on
Kathmandu’s famous Swambhunath stupa. Indeed the chorten is a virtual replica of the Nepalese
landmark: its giant hemispherical dome, crowned by a pyramidal head, resting on a square three-
tiered base just as in Swambhunath, with small stupas on the plinth’s four corners.

Monpaman wearing the traditional Yak hair cap

Monpaman wearing the traditional Yak hair cap

And what little deviations there are from the Swambhunath stupa, blame it on the radish. For
legend has it that Lama Sangye Pradhar, who supposedly built Gorsam Chorten, travelled to
Kathmandu and carved a miniature model of the shrine using radish. But the radish shrivelled on
his journey back to Zemithang, crumpling the model somewhat. It took 13 years to build the
chorten, but no one is quite sure when exactly it was built. Early 18th century is one widely held
guess through legends stretch its antiquity by another 400 years. The written records of its
history are all missing: one set, kept at the Tawang monastery, was destroyed by fire, while a
second set was lost from a monastery in Tibet after the Chinese invasion. Descendants of Lama
Sangye Pradhar had a third set, but that too can no longer be traced.

That leaves no option but to fall back on the legends. And the legends have it that Lama Sangye
Pradhar built the colossal chorten in an effort to rid the area of evil spirits. Said Sony Khandu,
the amiable Zemithang circle officer, "It is said that the region then was going through a terrible
phase: crops were failing, strange diseases were afflicting people. It was then that the saviour
was born, and one day, when his mother went to work in the fields, a monkey picked up the baby
from a basket. The crying mother prayed fervently and after a day or two, the monkey brought
back the baby. So they named him Sangey Pradhar — pradhar meaning monkey, and Sangey
connoting enlightenment, for the child soon showed signs of prodigious knowledge and
wisdom."

He grew up to become a lama but found little support from the villagers when he proposed
building the chorten to drive out the evil spirits. Undaunted, he set off for Bhuttan, collecting
funds, and finally ended up in Kathmandu and fashioning that miniature Swambhunath with
radish.

For a person so remarkable, Sangye Pradhar couldn’t have had normal parents. So the legends
have it that his father was an ascetic who mediatated in a cave up in the hills. But one day, some
village women managed to distract him, they plied him with rakshi, the strong local beer, and
inebriated, he lay with one of them. Thus was the Great One conceived.

Now you needn’t, of course, believe in the story but there’s no harm going on a trek to the cave
where the ascetic reportedly mediated. It’s a one-day excursion and the views, Circle Officer
Khandu assured us, are great. We did not however have the time for it.

Nor, indeed, did we have time for another short one-day trek to Lake Chamling Tso, close to the
last Indian village on the Chinese border. The waters of the lake are thought to have
aphrodisiacal qualities. The people in that village are all very sexy," laughed one Zemithang
resident. The lake warns you also of impending danger. "If something bad is about to happen to
you," he said, "you won’t be able to see the waters, so thick would be the mist." Well, we made it
safely back to Tawang and then on to Tezpur and Calcutta. Surely, the waters that day must have
been clearly visible.

Travel tips

Access: A trip to Zemithang must obviously be part of a tour of scenic Tawang in Arunachal
Pradesh. A few buses operate between Zemithang and Tawang but hiring a vehicle would be
advisable. Buses operate to Tawang from Tezpur (365 km); it is a two-day journey with night
halt at Bomdila. Tezpur has regular buses connecting it to Guwahati (190 km) which is linked to
Calcutta and Delhi by train and air services. There are also twice-weekly direct flights (IA) to
Tezpur from Calcutta. Taxis can be hired for the entire journey from Tezpur at Rs 1300 day;
shared Sumo taxis (Rs 350) are also available.

Accommodation: Zemithang has a government rest house which should be booked in advance
from Tawang. Tawang and Bomdila have reasonably good hotels; there are also the state tourist
lodges.
Day 07: BOMDILA - SELA PASS
Morning drive to Sela Pass and start trekking to Chebra La (11 km/ 5 hrs). Overnight at tented
accommodation.

Day 08: TREK FROM CHEBRA LA TO BANGAJANG

After breakfast start our trek to Bangajang, approx 4 hrs. Overnight at tented accommodation.

Day 09: TREK FROM BANGAJANG TO NURANANG

After breakfast trek to Nuranang (12 km/ 6 hrs). On reaching Nuranang, drive to Tawang. Check
into Hotel.

Day 10: TAWANG

At Tawang with sightseeing. Overnight at Hotel.

BAILEY' TREK

the people.

Your trek tour starts from the Guwahati Airport in Assam. The modern highway which connects
the Brahmaputra Valley to Tawang , encounters three ridges, all of them running roughly West
to East. Of these the most formidable is the Sela Ridge rising up to 4900 Meters, which is
crossed by the highway via the Sela pass at 4267 Meters, to reach Tawang, 3048 m. Toward the
North and the East, beyond Tawang; the mountains ridges rise up to the Himalayan watershed
enclosing Tawang in a horseshoe, marked by the peaks of Gori Chen at 6500 meters and
Kangdo, which rears its head at a proud 7090 Meters

In ancient days crossing over the Himalayan watershed from Tibet over the Tukung-la pass the
traders traveled along a different route. Descending down the head waters of the Tawang Chhu
river, they crossed the Sela ridge along a yak trail, with their caravans of wool, skins, precious
stones and yak butter to reach the barter markets in Assam.. Here they exchanged their loads for
salt, tea, cloth, and other commodities. This route was first explored by British surveyors lead by
F.M. Bailey in 1913 - and came to be called 'The Bailey Trail'. In 1962 the Chinese army used
this route to strike deep into Arunachal Pradesh.

Our trek starts from the Dirang River Valley at Chander at an elevation of 2530 m. Over seven
days it follows the "Bailey trail" to cross the the 4550 high Tse la Pass and then diverts along the
general alignment of the massive Sela Ridge, making its way through a series of interlocking
valleys connected through several passes to reach the highway at the Sela pass. The route
traverses through river valleys, quaint Monpa villages, and desolate high Himalayan pastures,
passing through a fascinating mix of terrain - mixed sub tropical forests, coniferous forests of
Pine, fir, Oak, and Chesnut, grasslands, Juniper, and Rhododendrons. There are lovely Alpine
lakes and breathtaking views of the Gori Chen and Kangdo peaks. From the Se la pass you will
drive to Tawang for a 02 nights visit taking in the Tawang Monastery and spend time exploring
other sights around Tawang. Thereafter we will drive back over the Sela pass to the lovely
Dirang Valley to stay for 02 nights, allowing us one full day to see the sights. Finally we take
two days to return to Guwahati driving along the highway crossing over Bomdi la pass, with an
overnight halt at Tezpur.

Itinerary:

Day 01: Drive Guwahati to Tezpur

Pick up from Guwahati airport. Drive to Tezpur, 181 Kms in 04.30 hrs, overnight at hotel.

Day 02: Drive Tezpur to Dirang, 1500 m via Bomdila

Drive 213 Kms in 06 hours to Dirang at 1500 m. Enroute visit Tippi Orchid research centre.

Day 03: Drive Dirang - Chander, 2530 m and Trek to Tungri, 3100 m

Early morning drive to Chander in two hrs. Weather permitting get your first view of the
panorama of snows. Start Trekking. Steadily uphill along a good track, through forests for 04 -05
hours to the Camp 1 at a yak pasture. Overnight in camp.

Day 04: Trek Tungri, 3100 m to Chang la, 3650 m

A hard trek of 06 hours through coniferous forests with two steep climbs along a ridge to Camp
2, near Chang la pass , 3650 m. Superb views of the Sela range, surrounding valleys and the
Himalayan watershed.

Day 05: Changla, 3650 m to Potak, 4200 m

Steady climb of 03 hours through scattered coniferous forests, juniper and Rhododendrons to
cross over Posing la pass at 3950 meters. Trek continues for another 04 hrs. First we go down
hill to cross a glacial stream, and then climb up to an alpine pasture to Camp 3 at Potak, 4200
meters at confluence of two streams.

Day 06: Trek Potak, 4100 m – Tse la, 4550 m – Lortum, 4100m

Trek steadily uphill beyond the tree line for 03 hrs to cross the high - Tse la, 4550 m. There is a
small Alpine lake below the summit and breath taking panoramic views of the Sela ridge, river
valleys, Gorichen (6500 m) and Kangdo,(7090 m) peaks on the Himalayan watershed. During
October, whilst descending for 02 hrs to a river valley the trees and foliage presents spectacular
fall colours.. Camp 5 at Lortum, 4100 m.

Day 07: Trek Lortum to Luguthang, 4500 m

A long hard day of trekking for 08 hours, Begin with a nice leisurely walk downhill with great
views . Enjoy the stunning fall colours. Thereafter climb steadily on a near virgin trail for three
to four hours to the Khokar la pass connecting the Lortam and Luguthang valleys It is a
challenging trek as you encounter many false crests. Once at the top there are wonderful view of
alpine lakes and in the far distance can be seen the river valley where Luguthang is located. The
descent into the valley and walk down to the campsite is one of the most stunning of the trip.
Luguthang – a cluster of half a dozen graziers houses with a gompa, is located high up at 4500
m. From the surrounding ridges you can get good views of the Tawang Chhu Valley. Overnight
at camp 5.

Day 08: Trek Luguthang to Tsonai, 4500 m

Another long hard days trek.. Crossing two major high passes, there are ascents and desents. You
will be trekking at an average altitude of 4500 m, and affects of altitude combined with the long
day make it perhaps the most challenging day. Camp 6 is set in a lovely pasture at Tsonai, 4500
m.

Day 09: Trek Tsonai to Se la, 4267 m. Drive Se la to Tawang, 3048 m

Morning reveals stunning view of the great peaks The last days trek is just for 02-03 hrs. There is
the last pass to climb – The Kya la before descending to the Sela Pass, 4267 m.. Transfer to our
jeeps to descend to the Tawang Chhu Valley at Jang. Steep descent of 31 Kms( 01 hr) through
the rugged and narrow Nuranang Valley. Therafter we drive for 44 kms( 1.45 hrs) through
picture post card country side, climbing up through a series of hair pins to Tawang, 3048 m.
Overnight at your hotel.

Day 10: Tawang sightseeing

At Tawang - Explore the 350 years old Tawang Monastery, and have an audience with
Rimpoche. The famous Galden Namgyal Lhatse, popularly known as Tawang Monastery was
founded by Merak Lama Lodre Gyamtso in the year 1860-81. It is the fountain-head of the
spiritual life of the Gelupa Sect of the Mahayana School of Buddhism. The inner walls of the
Dukhang - the assembly hall are painted with murals of various divinities and saints. The silver
casket wrapped in silk containing the Thankas of Goddess Palden Lhamo - the principal deity of
the monastery, were painted with blood drawn from the nose of the fifth Dalai Lama. A colossal,
richly gilded statue of Lord Buddha sitting 26 feet high, occupies the middle of the northern side.
In the afternoon participate in a cultural program of songs and dance. Overnight at your hotel.

Day 11: Tawang Sightseeing

Visit Buddhist nunnery, crafts center, and Urgelling Monastery dating back to 1489 followed by
the Seru Monpa village. The Urgelling Monastery is the birth place of the Sixth Dalai Lama. In
1714 the Dalai Lama’s original monastery at Urgelling was destroyed, during Mongolian
invasion from Bhutan. All valued possession of Urgelling monastery were taken to Tawang
Monastery. It was during this time that the Ka-gyur (holy scriptures) written out in gold and
silver arrived at the Tawang monastery, where they are preserved to this day. Today a modest
Gompa stands at this site. After early lunch drive back over the Sela pass to Dirang in 04 - 05
hours. Overnight at your hotel.

Day 12: Dirang sightseeing

Visit Sangti Valley, Yak Research centre, Dirang Dzong and Monpa heritage village. Overnight
at hotel at Dirang.

Day 13: Dirang to Tezpur

Drive back to Tezpur, 215 kms in 06.30 hours. Overnight in hotel.

Day 14: Drive to Guwahati airport, 183 kms in 04.30 hrs, for your departure flight to Delhi/
Kolkota.

AVIAN ADVENTURE - 02

Guwahati- Orang - Pakke - Eaglenest - Nameri - Kaziranga - Guwahati (Deepor Beel)

(A 17 day visit to Assam and Western Arunachal covering three National Parks(NP), two Wild
Life Sanctuaries (WLS) and an exclusive Greater Adjutant site with a natural lake (Proposed
Bird Sanctuary)

Day 01: Guwahati-Orang NP (04 hrs):

Our tour manager will welcome you on your arrival at Guwahati airport. Later transfer to Orang
National Park. Overnight at Forest Rest House/Tourist Lodge. With an area of 78.80 sq.km,
Orang is the last refuge of the Great Indian one horned rhinos on the northern side of the
Brahmaputra river. Sixty percent of the park is grassland. The area is a flat land with few
depressions. Numerous streams running north to south drain the area which ultimately join the
Brahmaputra. The habitat is composed of Eastern Seasonal Swamp Forests, Eastern Himalayan
Moist Deciduous Forests, Eastern wet Alluvial Grassland & Khair-Sisoo Forests.

Long-billed vulture, Kaziranga

Long-billed vulture in flight, Kaziranga

Lesser adjutant, Kaziranga

Greater adjutants, Guwahati

Greater adjutant, Guwahati

Stork billed kingfisher, Kaziranga

Small niltava, Nameri

Sultan Tit, Nameri

Swamp francolin, Kaziranga

Deepor Beel

Elephants - Kaziranga

Greater Adjutant Guwahati

An elderly couple at Kaziranga

Deepor Beel

A Stream, Nameri

Interesting Species: Bengal Florican, Swamp Francolin, Jerdon’s Bushchat, Pallas’s Fish Eagle,
Greater Spotted Eagle, Black-necked Stork, Kalij Pheasant, Greater & Lesser Adjutants, Pied
Harrier, Great Hornbill, Thick-billed Warbler, White-Cheeked Partridge, King Vulture,
Ferruginous Pochard, Finn’s Weaver, Spot-billed Pelican etc.

Day 02: Orang NP:

Full day at Orang.

Day 03: Orang NP-Pakke (Pakhui) WLS (04 hrs):

Half day at Orang NP. Later after lunch transfer to Pakke WLS in the East Kameng district of
Arunachal. Overnight at Seijosa Forest Rest House/Camps.

Pakke Project Tiger is a magnificent Wild Life Sanctuary in Western Arunachal. With an area of
862 sq.km & altitudinal variation of 100-2000m (accessible up to 300 m), it is contiguous with
Eagle Nest WLS of Western Arunachal and Nameri National Park of Assam.

Low land evergreen forest, shingle banks, farmland, & plantations form the vegetation of Pakke.

Interesting Species: Blue-naped Pitta, Crow-billed Drongo, Daurian Redstart, Emerald Cuckoo,
Grey Peacock-pheasant, Ibisbill, Jerdon's Baza, Lesser Shortwing, Leschenault's Forktail, Lesser
Necklaced Laughing-thrush, Maroon Oriole, Pied Falconet , Ruby-cheeked Sunbird, Red-
headed Trogon, Sultan Tit, White-bellied Yuhina, White-browed Shortwing, White-cheeked
Hill-partridge, Wreathed and Great Hornbills, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher-warbler etc.

Day 04: Pakke: Trek: Seijosa-Khari. Overnight at Forest Rest House/Camps.

Day 05: Pakke: Trek: Khari-Beyond Khari-Back to Khari.

Day 06: Pakke: Trek: Khari-Seijosa.

Day 07: Pakke-Eaglenest (06 hrs):

Birding till 9 am on the fringes of Pakke. Later transfer to Eaglenest WLS in the West Kameng
district of Arunachal. Overnight at Sundarview camp.
A magnificent wild life sanctuary, Eaglenest is located in the West Kameng district of Western
Arunachal with an area of 218 sq.km & altitudinal variation of 500 m-3200 m from South to
North. It is accessible up to its highest point though the motorable road stresses up to 2800
metres. This wild life sanctuary is accessible in the monsoons as well due to its location.
The vegetation consists of lowland evergreen forest, broad-leaved forest, bamboo, conifers,
roadside scrub and farmland.

Interesting species: Ashy Wood-pigeon, Bay Woodpecker, Beautiful Nuthatch, Black-faced

Laughing-thrush, Blue-fronted Robin, Beavan's Bullfinch, Brown Bullfinch, Brown-throated
Treecreeper, Common Hill-partridge, Coral-billed Scimitar-babbler, Crimson-breasted Pied-
woodpecker, Eye-browed Thrush, Golden Bush-robin, Grey-chinned Minivet, Little Forktail,
Pied Falconet, Pale-headed Woodpecker, Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagle, Rufous-necked Hornbill,
Rufous-bellied Bulbul, Rufous-breasted Bush-robin, Scaly Laughing-thrush, Sultan Tit,
Temminck's Tragopan, Wallcreeper, Chestnut-headed, Grey-bellied and Slaty-bellied Tesias etc.

Day 08: Eaglenest: Trek: Sundarview-Bompu. Overnight at camps.

Day 09: Eaglenest: Trek: Bompu-Sissni. Overnight at camps.

Day 10: Eaglenest: Trek: Sissni-Beyond Khellong-Back to Khellong. Overnight at Forest Rest
House/Camps.

Day 11: Eaglenest (Khellong)-Nameri NP (06 hrs):

Transfer to Nameri National Park. Overnight at Eco Camp.

Tiger Pug Marks at NameriCovering an area of 200 sq km, Nameri National Park, located at the
foothills of the Eastern Himalayas, is the best place to see the very rare & elusive White-winged
Wood Duck. Nameri is a project tiger. The sparkling river Jia Bharali, which is ideal for rafting
and angling, flows down by the National Park adding a unique charm to it. The habitat of the
park consists of tropical evergreen, semi evergreen, moist deciduous forests with cane and
bamboo brakes and narrow strips of open grassland along rivers. Nameri along with adjacent
Pakke & neighbouring Eaglenest Wild Life Sanctuaries of Western Arunachal protects about
1300 sq.km of great bio-diversity.

Interesting Species: Black-breasted Thrush, Collared Falconet, Ibisbill, Long-billed Plover,

Giant, Rufous-necked & Wreathed Hornbills, Ruddy Kingfisher, White-winged Wood Duck,
Wallcreeper, Kalij Pheasant, Green Cochoa, King Vulture, Pallas’s Fish Eagle etc.

Day 12: Nameri NP: Trek:

Full day at Nameri National Park.

Day 13: Nameri NP –Kaziranga NP (03 hrs):

Bull Buffalo at KazirangaTransfer to Kaziranga National Park. On arrival we check in at hotel

Wild Grass Resort/Bonhabi Resort/Aranya Lodge and have lunch. Later, we go out birding on
the road outside Panbari reserve and also in tea gardens.

Home to the Great Indian one horned rhinoceros, Kaziranga National Park is one of the best
parks in the world. With an area of 860 sq.km (after recent additions) of low lying grasslands,
shallow water bodies & woodlands this is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Assam. Kaziranga
is excellent for mammal viewing. The park recently celebrated 100 years of its protected area
status.
Kaziranga was brought under the Project Tiger recently. There are 86 Royal Bengal Tigers as per
2000 Census. Kaziranga has 70% of the world population of Eastern Swamp Deer and Asiatic
Water Buffalos. Out of 2006 rhinoceros found in Assam 1855 could be found in Kaziranga as
per 2006 Census.

Till now 490 species of birds(25 of them globally threatened) have been recorded at Kaziranga
so far & an ardent birder is likely to find more. Kaziranga is the most visited birding area in NE
India & for a birder it has been a memorable experience where one comes across innumerable
species within a few hours of birding.

Interesting species: Bengal Florican, Swamp Francolin, White-bellied Heron, Black-necked

Stork, Pallas’s & Grey-headed Fish Eagles, Pied Harrier, Spot-winged Starling, Chestnut-capped
Babbler, Slender-billed Babbler, Streak-throated, Pale-headed and Himalayan Flameback
woodpeckers, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Black-crested Bulbul, Abbott’s and Puff-throated Babblers,
Pale-chinned Flycatcher, Oriental and Great Hornbills, Banded Bay and Drongo Cuckoos, Grey
Peacock Pheasant, Kalij Pheasant, Pale-capped Pigeon, Silver-breasted Broadbill, Golden-
crested Myna, White-hooded Babbler, Lesser Shortwing, Black-breasted Thrush, Blyth’s Pipits,
Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Ashy Woodswallow, Common Green Magpie, Thick-billed Warbler,
Greater Necklaced and Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes, White-Cheeked Partridge, Blue-naped
Pitta etc.
ASSAM: ORANG NATIONAL PARK

Popularly known as mini Kaziranga, Orange National Park covers 72-sq-kms only and is located
towards the north bank of Brahamaputra. This park is 150-km from Guwahati and 31-km from
Tezpur. From Tezpur by bus on Tezpur-Guwahati route at 45-km west is Orange Chariali and
from their 18-km towards the south is Orange wildlife sanctuary. On October 1st, 1992 Orange
Wildlife Sanctuary was renamed as Rajib (Rajiv) Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary.

Location: 31-km From Tezpur, Assam

Famous As: Mini Kaziranga
Main Attraction: One-Horned Rhinos, Elephants, Leopards & Migratory Birds
Best Time To Visit: November To March

Flora & Fauna:

The Orange Wildlife Sanctuary area is having rich forestry of Sal, Teak, Simul, and Eucalyptus
trees with wild beasts such as One-horned Rhino, Elephants, Leopards, Sambhars, Deer’s, etc.
During winter birds from far off places come here to nestle. Milky white Pelicans from America
also migrate over here.

HOW TO GET THERE:

Rail: The nearest railhead is Salon & Rangapara. The park has only a small rest house so it is
better to stay at Tezpur and visit this park.
Road: 2 buses from Orange Chariali, one at morning and the other at evening ply regularly for
Orange. Visiting Orange by bus requires staying for a night at Orange

WHERE TO STAY:
Night stay at the 2 forest bungalows of Orange, without electricity & modern amenities are
nothing but a thrilling experience. At the entrance gate, the Silbari forest bungalow is simply
excellent. Another one is 5-km interior of the forest called Sat Simul bungalow. Walking is not
allowed in the interior forest, so use jeep to explore the forest surround.

ORANG NATIONAL PARK

Orang Sanctuary, Also termed as a miniature Kaziranga, is located near Silbori, and on
the north bank of river Brahmaputra. It covers an area of 78 sq. km.
Attractions

Animals:

One horned Rhinoceros, Royal Bengal Tiger, Barking Deer, Elephant, Leopard, Sambar and
Hogdeer, Pangolin, Civet Cat & Otter.

Birds:

Both migratory and local birds. viz. Palican, Green Pigeon, Bengal Florican, Cormorant, Greylag
Goose, Large Whistling Teal, Great Adjutant Stork, King Vulture.

How to Reach
 Orang is at a distance of 140 kms. from Guwahati, 32 kms. from Tezpur and 68 kms.
from Mangaldai, the district HQ by road. It would take One and half hour to reach from
Mangaldai. The nearest railhead is Rongapara and the nearest airport is Saloni (Tezpur).Public
buses & rental cars are available from Guwahati, the State Capital or Mangaldai.
Accommodation

There are two(2) Inspection Bunglows inside the park. One is at Silbori and the other at Satsimlu
inside the forest. One Tourist Lodge is coming up at Nalbari (Tourist Department).

In addition, there is a Government Tourist Lodge, a Circuit House and other

private hotels of moderate rates at Tezpur. Also there are hotels and lodges in Mangaldai and
Rowta.
Useful Addresses

DFO, Western Assam Wildlife Division, Tezpur (for accommodation at IB).

Deputy Director, Tourism, Govt. of Assam, Tezpur (for accommodation at Govt. CH)

Range Officer, Orang Wildlife Sanctuary, Orang, P.O. Silbori (Pin-784114) Darrang (for visit).

ASSAM: ORANG NATIONAL PARK

Introduction

Situated in the District of Sonitpur, the Nameri is the third National Park of Assam. The Pakhui
(Pakke) Sanctuary of Arunachal Pradesh adjoins the Park on its North-Eastern point. The area is
criss-crossed by the river Jia- Bhoroli and its tributaries namely the Diji, Dinai, Doigurung,
Nameri, Dikorai, Kharietc. A few jheels (during the rainy seasons) also dot the area. The Jia -
Bhoroli river and the tributaries display devilish look when the incessant downpour in the upper
reaches during the rainy season make it swell. The in-accessibility and continuity with
neibouring forest areas has helped the wildlife of Nameri to flourish. There is a good prey -base
in the form of -Sambar,Barking deer, Hog Deer, Wild Boar and gauri. About 3000 domestic
cattle also form part of this prey base for Tiger and Leopards.
The inaccessibility and continuity with the neibouring forest areas have helped the wildlife of
Nameri to flourish. There is a good prey base in the form of Sambar, Barking deer, Hog Deer,
Wild Boar and Gaur. About 3000 domestic cattle also form part of this prey base for Tiger and
Leopards.
Nameri and the adjoining forest areas, declared reserved for a considerable time, also qualify to
be an Elephant Reserve. The Elephant population estimated in 1997 was 225.
Nameri and Sonai-Rupai are only Protected Areas in the North Bank of the Brahmaputra in the
Civil District of Sonitpur, Lakhimpur and Dhemaji.

Legal Status
Reserved Forest declared on 17-10-1878
Nameri Sanctuary (137 sq. km.) on 18-09-1985
Provisional Notification of National Park (212 sq.km. ) on 27.02.97
Final Notification of National Park (200 sq. km.) on 09.09.1998 in Assam Gazette.

Area of the Tiger Reserve

Core Area- (Nameri National Park) = 200 sq. km
Part of Naduar Reserve Forests Tezpur Sub Division
upto Ghiladhari River = 80 sq. km
Buffer Area - Part of Balipara Reserve Forests Area in between
Jia-Bhoroli River and Rangapara - Bhalukpung
Railway line = 64 sq.m
Total Area = 344 sq. Km.

Forest Types and Composition

Assam Valley Tropical Evergreen Forests - IR/C 2b Mesua Sub type.
Assam Alluvial Plains semi Evergreen Forests- 2B/C I. A.
Phoebe- Anoora association
Sub Himalayan light Alluvial Semi- Evergreen Forests 2B/I.S.I
Mekahi Sub Type.

Eastern Alluvial Secondary Semi Evergreen Forests- 2B/2.S.

Cane Brakes- 2B/E.I.
Wet Bamboo Brakes 2B/K.2.
Northern Secondary Moist Mixed, Deciduous Forests - 3C/ 2.S.I.
Low Alluvial savanna Wood Land- 3/ I.S.I.
Eastern Hollock Forests -3/I.S.2b.
4.D/SSI Eastern Seasonal Swamp Forests.
Eastern Dillenia Swamp Forests- 4D / SS Dillenia Altingia Association.
Eastern wet Alluvial Grass land- 4.D / 2.5.2.

Habitat- Flora Fauna

The habitat of Nameri is made up of tropical evergreen, Semi-evergreen, moist deciduous forests
with cane and bamboo brakes and narrow strips of open grassland along rivers. Grassland
comprise of less than 10% of the total area of the park while the semi-evergreen and moist
deciduous species dominate the area. Some notable species are Gamari, Titachopa, Amari,
Bogipoma, Ajar, Urium poma, Bhelou, Agaru, Rudraksha, Bonjolokia, Hatipolia akhakan,
ahollock, Nahor, Siya Nahar, Simul, Bonsum etc. Orchoids include Dendrobium, Cymbidium,
Ladies Sleeper etc. Tree Fern,Lianas, creepers are some of the specialties of this forests.
The most prized and most significant finding is the White Winged Wood Duck which has a
flourishing population in Nameri confirmed officially in 1995. Till now 315 avian species have
been recorded in the Park.

Few notable among them are:- (Mammals) More than 30 species: Tiger, Leopard, Black Panther,
Clouded Leopard, Lesse Cats, Sloth Bear, Himalayan Black Bear, Elephant, Indian Bison,
Dhole, Sambar, Barking Deer, Dog Deer, Fox, Hispid Hare, Indian Hare, Capped Langur, Slow
Loris, Assamese Macaque, Rhesus Macaque, Himalayan yellow Throated Martin, Malayan giant
Squirrel, Flying Squirrel, Wild Pig etc.

(Bird)315 Sps.: White winged wood duck, Great Pied Hornbill, Wreathed Hornbill, Rufous
Necked Hornbill, Black Stork, Ibis Bill, Large Whistling Teal, Common Mergernser, King
Vulture, Long Billed Ring Plover, Khallej Pheasant, Hill Myna , Pin tailed green Pigeon,
Himalayan pied Kingfisher, Three Toed kingfisher, Fairly Blue Bird Etc.

Reptiles: King cobra, cobra, Pit Viper, Russels Viper, Banded Krait, Python, Rat Snake, Assam
Roof Turtle, Malayan Box Turtle, Keeled Box turtle, Asian Leaf Turtle, Narrow Headed soft
Shelled Turtle, Indian soft Shelled Turtle. Fishes Golden Mahseer, Shaort gilled Mahseer,
Silghoria. Number of tiger as per latest count (2002 count): 26

Constrains
There are as many as 25 Reserved Forests in these three districts where departmental logging is
allowed. Habital shrinkag due to encroachment has put immense pressure on tiger population to
move and seeka safer place. Hence there are local reports that the tiger concentration in Nameri
has increased in the past few years. As a result o tiger population, Nameri is in need of a better
conservation and protection measures.

The number of revenue villages in the core area: Nil

The number of revenue villages in the core area: Nil
Area covered by the villages: Nil
Human Population : 1000 nos. of Taungya villagers. They are occupying 10 sq. km of periphery
of Nameri National Park. It is under the Process of shifting them outside the National Park.
Cattle Population 3000 nos they are under the process of rehabilitation.

ORANG

Wildlife enthusiasts who find it difficult to visit Kaziranga to get a glimpse of their favourite
one-horned Indian rhino, Orang, no doubt is the next best option to see one. The access to Orang
National Park is quick and easy except the last 12 km on the bumpy country road. Orang
National Park is 140 km from Guwahati. Situated on the north bank of the Brahmaputra River,
Orang National Park covers an area of 78.8 sq. km and falls in the Udalguri district of Assam.
Deer at Orang

The park is also known as the Mini Kaziranga and is famous for its natural scenic beauty that
captivates the tourists from all over the world. The Orang National Park was established as a
sanctuary in 1985 and declared a National Park as recently as in 1999. Rhino is the main
attraction in the Orang National Park besides other animals.

The terrain of Orang National Park is similar to Kaziranga – swampy grassland with landlocked
and slightly higher woodlands that stretch away from the river. It slopes gently north to south
and is fringed by the Dhunseri and Pasnoi rivers to its west and east. All the streams that
meander through the park drain into the Brahmaputra in the south. The park has a typical
subtropical monsoon climate. The park has channels and islands of the Brahmaputra on the
southern and eastern boundaries.
Watching the Rhino & Other Animals
Park Timings &
Best Time to Visit

Park Timings:
Early mornings and early evenings
Best Time to Visit:
The park ideally can be visited from November to April, however for best wildlife sightings visit
between February and March.

Contacts
DFO, Wildlife Division
Mangaldai – 781008
Ph: 0361 - 2517064

Rang Officer, Orang

Ph: 03712- 282379

Rhinos are the star attraction here and you many find them grazing lazily in the open fields of
Orang National Park. You can head to the run down Satsimulu Inspection Bungalow that
overlooks the large, open, swampy grassland. This place offers uninterrupted views of the terrain
and you may see a number of wild animals from here.
Birds at Orang Wildlife Sanctuary

Besides, the one-horned rhinoceros, Orang National Park is home to elephants, leopard, sambar,
barking deer, tiger, and a number of other animals. The park also offers a host of birding
opportunities to bird lovers. Orang National Park abounds in avian species. It is the most
important habitat of the Bengal florican. Other birds you may spot in Orang National Park
include lesser adjutant, spot-billed pelican, greater adjutant stork, black-necked stork, rudy
shelduck, Wooly-necked stork, gadwall, mallard, pintail and a number of others including forest
and grassland birds.

Places to see
Elephant Rides

Elephant safari at OrangElephant safari is perhaps the best way to explore Orang National Park,
though jeeps are allowed inside the park. Elephant safari allows you to observe the wildlife from
close quarters. Safari timings are early morning and early evenings

A trip to Orang would specifically be for wildlife as there is not much to explore around.
However, on route to Orang you may visit Madan Kamdev Temple ruins, also known as the
Khajuraho of Kamrup. These ruins are located about 35 km from Guwahati. You can take a
number of excursions from here. The silk weaving village called Sualkuchi, the Pua-Mecca
Mosque in Hajo and Hayagriba Madhav Temple are other place to see around Orang National
Park.

Places to stay in Orang National Park

Orang offers very basic accommodation. There are two Inspection Bungalows of forest
department inside the park. One is at Silbori and the other at Satsimlu inside the forest. One
Tourist Lodge is coming up at Nalbari (Tourist Department). Tezpur can be a good base for
wildlife viewing in Orang National Park. Hotels in Orang National Park

Reaching Orang National Park

By Air: Guwahati, 140 km away is well connected by Indian and other private airlines.

By Rail: Guwahati is well connected the rail network.

By Road: Orang can be approached from NH 52 through gravel roads running from Orang town
and Dhansirimukh. It is about 65 km from Tezpur. The sanctuary is 15 km off the national
highway near Orang town (Dhansirimukh).
/////////
Some Important Destinations near Tawang
Bomdila is 185 km from Tawang, which is also a major link between Tawnag and other parts of
India. Dirang is at a distance of 143 km from Tawang. Jang is just 42 km away. Lumla is 45
km away. The distance between Tawang & Zemithang is 93 km. Tawang is also connected to
Tezpur (Assam) about 345 km from Tawang. Bhalukpong is 285 km from Tawang

LAKES

P.T.TSO Lake( Pankang Teng Tso): -It is a fetching heaven for tourist only 17 KM away from
maddening crowd of township. It is a beautiful natural site and provide tourist a lucky chance for deep
communion with nature.

SANGETSER LAKE JO-NGA-TSEIR): -It is a lake where observation of nature's beauty, serenity and
sanctity gets a peaceful rest. Visiting this place, tourist can never control themselves in showing Hula-Hula as
so beautiful appearance of nature is here. It is only 42 KM away from Tawang. The lake emerged during 1950
earthquake.

BANGGACHANG LAKE: -It is an anecdotal lake, very attractive for such tourist who would like to travel
101 KM from the township. Many mystical stories, like seeing Gompa, candle light. Jewels and Coins and many
other mysterious and nerve stimulating sites are woven around it. It has interior location and go to in very
verge of it is challenging for tourist. It invites young and enthusiastic tourist to experience it personally in
depth.

PEAKS

SELA PEAK: -
In search of the hidden paradise of Tawang, the Peak of Sela naturally come in the way as a gigantic mountain
of mountains. It entices visitors' keen to imagine what would be the demographically shape and colour of
Tawang on the other side of the peak. The Sela Pass is the gateway of Tawang district. It is at a height of
13714 ft. and proper Tawang main town is 92 km away from Sela. There are two beautiful lakes at Sela which
have been always alluring the visitors for memorable snapshots.

GORICHEN PEAK: -
It is the highest peak in Tawang and is 22500 ft. in height. The snow caped ,sky touching peak of Gorichen is
164 KM away from Tawang township. It has been always a challenging game of stamina for mountaineers
Zeal and determination. Many back packers attempted for successful climbing of its steeply and dizzy heights,
but a few could enjoy success.

GESHILA PEAK: -
This beautiful peak is the nearest one to Tawang township at a distance of
25 KM via a place called Khrimu. At the top of this peak one can enjoy a
deep solitude. The top of gesela peak offers a unique angle for over viewing
the whole

HOTSPRINGS
THINGBU HOT SPRING: -
This hot spring is situated 68 km away from Tawang township. It can be
approached from Jang on foot journey or by a pony ride. From time immemorial this hot spring has
been of utmost use to the local population. This hot spring is known for its medical and therapeutic
value.

TSACHU HOT SPRING: -

A part from hot spring,this site is also suitable for hard trekking. The route of Tsachu
has very attractive land scape and beautiful site. The place can be approached from Tawang after
travelling 4 hours by light vehicle and further 4 hours by foot march.
 NUNNERIES

SINGSUR ANI GOMPA: -This Gompa is

one beautiful nunneries of Tawang district.
It is situated at a distance of around 28 Kms
west from the Tawang HQ towards the
Geshila road . It houses around 30(thirty)
Anis (Nuns). The new Singsur anie Gompa
was built by the previous Rev. Gonpatse
Rimpoche in 1960. The old Singsur ani gonpa
is also in existence and is situated in the
midst of the shaa (huts) of the anies. It has
View of Nuns & Nunneries a beautiful land scape around it. It is worth
visiting it as it is not far away from main
road. It is just above Lhou village.

GYANGONG ANI GOMPA: -Gyangong Ani Gonpa BRAMA DUNG CHUNG ANI
is a beautiful Nunnery, having about 50 Bhuddist GOMPA: -Tawang district has a long
Nuns, located on top of a beautiful hillock about five tradition of nunneries called "Ani Gonpas",
km away in the north of Tawang founded by Mera Lam which are the abode of nuns. Unlike the
Lodre Gyamtso and was subsequently offered by him monks (Lamas), the girls become nuns and
to his elder sisiter. Thus the Gyangong Ani gonpa join the nunnery on their own and there is
came into existence. no social pressure or tradition making the
This Ani Gonpa is under the administration of practice compulsory.Brama dung chung Ani
Tawang Monastery. Location of nunnery and the gonpa (nunnery) is the oldest Ani Gompa
customs being followed by nuns remind visitors of the (Nunnery) in Tawang District . It is situated
period of Maurya Dynasty, when the Buddhism was in the lap of a far off mountain laced with
preached in remote hilly areas under the shade of natural scenery. It is located at a distance of
green trees. 9 Kms. from the main town. This nunnery
was constructed by a Lama named Karchen
As this ani gonpa is under the administration of Yeshi Gelek from Tsang province of Tibet in
Tawang monastery, the nuns of this monastery get the year 1595 A.D. Presently there are forty
provision from the Tawang monastery. But the scale of five (Anis) nuns in this Monastery. Being
ration is very low i.e. about 10 containers ( about 250 very poor, the inhabitants of
gms each) of foodgrains per month or about two and Brahmadungchung Ani Gonpa depend on
half kg of food grains per month. begging for sustaining themselves.

TAWANG TREKKING AND FOOD

Tawang is a much undiscovered Trekkers paradise, offering breath taking views, fresh mountain
air, chill weather, and challenging or leisurely treks.

For a rigorous trek ( classified hard), take the Jang - Thingbu - Mago - Goi ichen Base Camp -
Mago (Back) - Luguthang - Sena Chakra - RA-I route.

The softer trekking routes include the Mukto - Gongkhar - Gyamdong - Khet - Kharung -
Bongleng - Kungba - Namsring - Kharteng - Lumla route, and the Tawang Gonpa - Gyangong
Ani Gonpa - Bhramadongchung Ani Gonpa - Tawang routes.

You can also trek along the Namet Village - Zarmang Ani Gonpa - Khromten Gonpa - Geshila -
Klimta - Bomla - Y. Junction - Tawang route, which takes you close to the Chinese border
outpost at Bomla.

Trekkers are advised to come fully attired and prepared for the worst.

Take a walk around the charming town.

Pray at the 400 year old Tawang Gompa. Turn the prayer wheels dotted outside small gompas.
Meet and chat with the friendly Lama monks. Take excursions around town to visit beautiful
glacier lakes and smaller gompas with big histories.
Chat with friendly and beautiful locals.

Take a nap on a hillock if its sunny, be prepared to be awoken by a grazing Yak.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Tawang has a good range of tourist souvenir shops which sell Budhdhist prayer wheels in
colourful wood, chadars (wrap skirts worn by local women), beautiful bags, shawls, brassware,
Budhdha statues. Look for shops in Old Market as well as Tibetan settlement.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Tibetean delicacies like Thupka , momos or simple and delicious Paratha- Sabzi eaten hot from
the roadside shacks on cold misty days are a treat !! Most restaurants in Tawang serve these. A
small shack called Annapurna serves delicious alu ( potato) chips.

The traditional Monpa cuisine use a generous amount of chillies and fermented cheese which has
a strong flavour and is not for the faint hearted.

Some traditional Arunachal dishes are, the famous Momo, widely eaten in the north east and
other Himalayan regions. The Momo is made by stuffing minced Pork and Onions into a dough
and then steamed in a three layer steamer, or fried.

The Thukpa is a soup filled with noodles, minced meat, and vegetables, also known as Der Thuk.
Ashum Thukpa is made of Maize, beans and meat.

Zan is the staple dish of the Monpa tribes. It is usually made of Millet flour. It is usually had with
vegetables or meat to which is added fermented cheese, soya bean or other herbs.

Khura is a pancake, had with tea.

Gyapa Khazi is a kind of Pulao made of rice, fermented cheese, small dried fish or shrimp,
chillies ginger and other spices.

Like all places of travel, some of the best food is found at the small non descript, sometime not
very hygenic, eateries, that serve authentic dishes at very affordable prices. They are sure to be
authentic food of the region as they are most frequented by locals.

Tawang Sightseeing

Tawang Monastery (Gonpa)

Golden Namgyal Lhatse commonly referred to as Tawang Monastery is one of the
largest lamaseries of Mahayana sects and the second oldest Monastery in the
world after Lhasa. This Monastery was founded by a monk Merag Lama Lodre
Gyamtso, a contemporary of His Holiness Fifth Dalai Lama in 1681 AD. The
monastery complex comprises of more than 65 residential buildings meant for
monks. The Monastery also houses the establishment of the Head Priest, living
chambers of the Lamas, an ancient library and antique museum. The most
important building of the monastery is the main assembly hall/ temple called
Duk-hang. It houses the colossal gilded statue of Lord Buddha. Apart from this
are many statues of God and Goddesses preserved for offering prayers. Thangkas
and other art facts antique are well protected. The Monastery is housed with
more than 500 monks. It has also a centre of Buddhist Cultural Studies where
young monks are provided basic education besides traditional monastic
education. Now a day, Tawang Monastery is also light up with tiny bulbs emitting
its perfect shape and size for the viewers at night.

Urgelling Gonpa
This Gonpa is believed to have been in existence since 14th century. It was one
of the first three monasteries built by Urgen Sangpo, the youngest brother of
Terton Pempalingpa, the famous Treasure-Revealer. Dating more than 550 years
ago, the monastery is the birth place of Tsangyang Tashi, His Holiness the 6th
Dalai Lama. He was the son of Lama Tashi Teiizin of Urgelling village a
descendent of Terton Pempalingpa. This Gonpa is about 5 King; away from
Tawang township.

Nunnery
Tawang has many aged old traditional Buddhist Nunneries called Ani Gonpa, In
fact, there is no any hard and fast regulation in the society compelling any girl
child to become a nun but they join nun hood at their own wishes.

Gyangong Ani Gonpa (Buddhist Nunnery)

Jangchub Choeling commonly referred to as Gyangong Ani Gonpa is a Nunnery
beautifully perched on the hillock which is about 5 Kms from Tawang township
founded by Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso and is believed to have subsequently
handed over to his elder sister. One can have a beautiful sight of this nunnery
from Tawang Monastery as well. Anybody wishes to visit Gyangong Ani Gonpa
needs to trek about half an hour from Tawang Monastery. This Nunnery houses
more than 50 nuns.

Brahrna-dung-chung Ani Gonpa

Gaden Thekchen Choeling, popularly known as Brahmadungchung Ani Gonpa is
one of the oldest nunneries in Tawang district located at about 8 Kms from
Tawang township. It was commissioned by Lama Karchen Yeshi Gelek in 1816
AD. Presently the Gonpa is housed with 40 Anis (Nuns). Any visitors wanted to
contribute (cash or kind) towards the welfare of Gonpa is accepted with thanks.

Singsur Ani Gonpa

This Ani Gonpa is at 28 Kms distance from Tawang township towards Ghesila
mountain range. There are many other Ani Gonpa (Nunneries) viz. Zyumay Ani
Gonpa and Ngawang Ani Gonpa in Tawang district

Taktsang Gonpa
Taktsang Gonpa is located at the distance of 45 Kms from Tawang township, is
believed to have consecrated by the visit of Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th
century AD. This Monastery is perched on the ridge of the hillock surrounded by a
dense coniferous forest and lofty mountains. Visitors can also conduct a visit
(Tirth yatra) round about the places nearby Taktsang Gonpa where Guru
Padmasambhava had meditated. It is place where one can really feel the ecstasy
of being alone.

Gorsam Chorten
This is situated 90 Kms from Tawang town. This Stupa is the largest Stupa of the
area. This Gorsam Chorten is believed to have constructed in the early part of
12* century by Lama Pradhar, Monpa monk.

BangaJang Lake
Nature has so lavishly blessed the entire Banga Jang range that one cannot help
resist themselves from exclaiming the fabulous design of the nature. Every year
Pilgrims Tour (Tirth Yatra) round about the Banga Jang range to acquire the
heavenly bliss and Sanctity. A numinous story has a big hold of the area. Apart
from Banga Jang lake, there are number of lakes in the area. ' Deities are
believed to have a strong control over every lake. Many Pilgrims had visited the
place but only few probably pure hearted pilgrims had an experience of
witnessing the deities in lake in different images.
Hot springs
Tawang is endowed with many hot water springs which are known for their
medicinal value. All these hot water springs have high sulpher content which
cures many skin ailments.

Tsachu hot
The water spring can be reached traveling by light motor vehicle for two hours
from Tawang up to Sarong Gonpa and from there one has to trek on foot for
another three hours. Apart from this, there is many other Hot spring available in
Tawang district viz. Kitpi Hot Spring, Thingbu Hot Spring, Greng-khar Hot spring
etc.

ccommodation facilities at different locations

TAWANG (STD Code: 03794)

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION
1. TAWANG INN (Contact No. 224096)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Deluxe Suite 01 (Double bedded) Rs. 1600/- -Do-
Suite 04 (Double bedded) Rs. 1500/- -Do-
Deluxe 02 (Double bedded) Rs. 1000/- -Do-
Semi Deluxe 07 (Double bedded) Rs. 800/- -Do-
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
2. TOURIST HUT (Contact No. 222738)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Deluxe 03 Rs. 500/- TV, Geyser, Heater
3. HOTEL NEFA (Contact No. 222419)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
04 (Double bedded) TV, Geyser,
Deluxe Rs. 500/-
Attached Bath Bhukhari
04 (Four bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 350/- Bhukhari
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
4. HOTEL SAMDUPLING (Contact No. 224213)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
06 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 750/- TV, Geyser, Heater
Attached Bath
07 (Double bedded)
Semi Deluxe Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser, Heater
Attached Bath
01 (Four bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 450/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
5. HOTEL DOLMA (Contact No. 224131 / 223271)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
02 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 700/-
Attached Bath
Semi Deluxe 04 (Double bedded) Rs. 600/-
 Attached Bath
02 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 400/-
Common Bath
01 (Four bedded) Rs. 150 per
Dormitory
Common Bath bed
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
6. HOTEL BUDDHA (Contact No. 222954)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
02 (Double bedded)
Super Deluxe Rs.825/- TV, Geyser, Heater
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 715/-
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Classic Rs. 605/-
Attached Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Conference Hall
7. MONYUL LODGE (Contact No. 222196)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
02 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
02 (Triple bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
01 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 450/-
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
8. HOTEL ANAPURNA (Contact No. Nil)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
03 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 850/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
02 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
01 (Triple bedded) Rs. 150 per
Dormitory TV
Attached Bath bed
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
9. HOTEL GOURICHEN (Contact No. 224151l)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
06 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
Semi Deluxe 06 (Double bedded) Rs.450/- Geyser
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
10. HOTEL ALPINE (Contact No. 222515)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
04 (Double bedded)
Super Deluxe Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 350/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
01 (Double bedded)
Semi Deluxe Rs. 300/- TV, Geyser
Common Bath
Dormitory 01 (Triple bedded) Rs. 300/- -
 Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
11. HOTEL DUNGPHU (Contact No. 223765)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
01 (Double bedded)
Super Deluxe Rs. 900/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
01 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 850/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
02 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 450/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Bhukhari provided on demand
12. HOTEL RAINBOW (Contact No. 222348)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
03 (Double bedded)
Super Deluxe Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
03 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 450/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Bhukhari provided on demand
13. HOTEL RAINBOW (Contact No. 222348)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Deluxe/Semi
12 rooms - -
Deluxe

14. HOTEL GANGCHIN(Contact No. 224243)

Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
01 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs.600/- TV, Heater
Common Bath
07 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 400/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
PAYING GUEST ACCOMMODATION
Sl. No. Paying Guest Accommodation No. of rooms
Kelsang Paying Guest Accommodation
01 03 rooms
(PGA)
02 Snowland PGA 04rooms
03 Seven Sisters PGA (Lemberdung) 03 rooms
04 Tribal Discoveries PGA 02rooms

GOVERNMENT ACCOMMODATION
TOURIST LODGE (Contact No. 03794 - 222359 (O) 223019 (Fax) 222567 (R)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Rs. 700/- per
VIP Suite 02 (Five bedded) TV, Geyser, Heater
room
Rs. 400/- per
Deluxe 03 (Two bedded) TV, Geyser, Heater
room
Semi Deluxe 04 (Triple bedded) Rs. 300/- per Geyser, Heater
 room
Rs. 200/- per
Economy rooms 10 (Double bedded) Geyser, Heater
room

BHALUKPONG (STD Code: 03782)

Name of Hotel Rooms
Sl. No. & Dormitory
Single Double
Phone Number
Circuit house/IB (PWD)
1 6
234424
Guest House (IFCD)
2 2
234424
Forest Guest House
3 4
234478

BOMDILA (STD Code: 03782)

Name of Hotel Rooms
Sl. No. & Dormitory
Single Double
Phone Number
Tourist lodge
1 8 1 room @ Rs. 20/- per bed.
222049
Circuit House
2 7
222021
Hotel Shipyang Pong
3 10 12 @ Rs. 100/- per bed
222286
Hotel Dawa
4 5
222360
Hotel Bomdila
5 1 6
222416
Hotel Pasang
6 1 5
222627
Hotel Potola
7 1 4
222248
LA Hotel
8 4 6
222097/22416
Sangrilla Hotel
9 5
222226

DIRANG (STD Code: 03780)

Name of Hotel Rooms
Sl. No. & Dormitory
Single Double
Phone Number
Tourist Lodge
1 4
222221/222225
Hotel Pemaling
2 4
222215
IB (P.W.D)
3 4
222221

Shorter route to Tawang

Press Trust Of India / Kolkata/ Itanagar March 10, 2006

With the inauguration of a bridge on the Lumla-Dudunghar road and completion of a new road,
the distance between Guwahati and Tawang town, a popular tourist spot in Arunachal Pradesh,
through Bhutan, has been reduced by 170 km.

The 52-metre long Namtsering bridge on Nyamjangchu river at Lumla was inaugurated by chief
minister Gegong Apang.

It removed a major hurdle in the way of shortening the distance between the two places.

A stretch of 11km of the new road is yet to be constructed.

It will reduce the distance between Guwahati and Tawang by 170km, according to G Rimpoche,
chairman of the advisory council for tourism of Arunachal Pradesh.

On completion of the new road, tourists will be able to come to Tawang without having to make
the journey through Sela pass, he said.

Rimpoche represents Lumla in the assembly.

A former tourism minister, he said work on construction of the 11km stretch is expected to be
taken up in the next financial year.

Once it is completed and modalities are framed with the Bhutan government, tourists will be able
to come to Tawang by the new road from Guwahati via Rangia-Samg ub-Zongkher through
Bhutan.

Western Arunachal Pradesh

Dirang - Tawang
by Ramana Athreya

Page content :
Birding Areas
Boarding & Lodging
Contact Addresses
Entry Permits
General Information
Link to landscape images
Map of the area
Transport
Miscellaneous
the newly described Arunachal Macaque

General Information

Area : This sprawling region spread over 2 districts is not part of any protected area
Altitude : 1500-4300+ m (all of it accessible by road)
Lat-Long : 27.5N 92.1E, W. Kameng & Tawang districts, Arunachal Pradesh See map
Nodal Locations : Dirang (W. Kameng) and Jang (Tawang)
Vegetation Type : dry inner valleys, cultivation, temperate broad-leaved and conifer forests, scrub, alpine
meadows.
Best Season - Birds : April-June & October-December, depending on snowfall
Best Season - butterflies : monsoon (May - September)
Speciality Birds : Monal pheasant, blood pheasant, Satyr and Temminck's tragopans, black-necked crane, long-
billed plover, ward's trogon, alpine accentor, eyebrowed thrush, white-throated redstart, slender-billed scimitar-
babbler, brown-throated tit-babbler/fulvetta, coal tit, rufous-bellied tit, rufous-fronted tit, eurasian treecreeper, fire-
tailed sunbird, beavan's bullfinch, brown bullfinch, white-winged grosbeak, red-billed chough.
(top)

Birding Areas

3-5 days is required to cover this vast area which has some really special birds. Doing this area by public transport,
other than Sela Pass, is not possible.

Dirang (W. Kameng)

Sangti Valley : (1600m). Dry inner valley with pine stands and cultivation. The only black-necked crane wintering
area in India (1-10 birds in late November-February only)
Mandala - Sela ridge road : (2200-3700m). Temperate broad-leaved forest and scrub, extensive conifer stands
and summer pastures.

Sela Ridge : 3500-4500m. Demarcates the W. Kameng - Tawang district border. Treeline vegetation (conifers,
birch and rhododendron, dwarf scrub) and alpine meadows.
The highway itself has decent roadside birding between Baisakhi (8 km beyond Sengay) and Sela Pass and also
further beyond on the Jang side. A road goes off from the Pass to Chabre La and then to B.J.Gompa. This passes
through extensive alpine meadows and tree-line vegetation.

Jang (Tawang)
Jang - B.J.Gompa road : 2800-4300m. Temperate bamboo, broad-leaved and fir forests; alpine meadows. The
entire road is open during summer; snow conditions determine access rest of the year, when it gets quite chancy
above 3500m.
Jang - Rama Spur road : 2800-3800+m. Temperate bamboo, fir and rhododendron forests with clearings. The road
begins to descend beyond the highest point at 3800m. But one can climb higher on foot.
(top)

Boarding & Lodging

Dirang (1625m, Grade 3) : couple of decent hotels (doubles at Rs. 500-1500) and several other basic ones and
restaurants.
Sengey (3000m, Grade 4) : (3000m ) : PWD IB (2-4 people). CCC!
Sangti : (1600m, Grade 5) : Sheep breeding centre IB (?). Camping by river.
Jang : (2200m - Grade 3) : A PWD IB (8 people). CCC!
B.J.Gompa : (4200m? - Grade 5) : a buddhist monastery, opens during summer. It is in the alpine zone and may be
a good place for exploring the area, if accommodation is available there.
See town grade and accommodation descriptions
(top)

Contact

As of now there is no local contact person in Dirang or Jang. Mr. Indi Glow of Tenga can help with making the
arrangements.
More Information on the area : Ramana Athreya email (rathreya at ncra . tifr . res . in)
Bird Tours : Kaati Tours & Mr. Indi Glow (President, Bugun Welfare Society)
Mr. Glow : Tenga Market, Tenga, W. Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh, Ph 91-3782-273359
Kaati Tours : Ph +91-2132-245770 email (kaati_tours at vsnl . net)

(top)

Entry Permits

Arunachal entry permits are required for both Indians and foreigners and are checked on entry at Bhalukpong. The
Circle Officers at Tenga/Singchung/Bhalukpong/Bomdila/Dirang/Jang can issue fresh permits to extend the stay
(for Indians only). No other permits are required. However, this area has a very heavy army presence; any group of
birders with serious optics should take the time to inform the local army officials of their presence especially if they
plan to wander far from the highway - this is also a good safety precaution in case unseasonal snowfall leaves the
party stranded far from habitation.
(top)

Transport

This is a region of early starts and long commutes with Dirang and Bomdila being the only place for those who
require very comfortable sleeping quarters. Bomdila, Dirang, Sela and Jang lie on the Tezpur-Tawang highway and
are served by several daily buses and shared taxis. But the Sela Pass is the only area which can be accessed solely by
public transport. All other localities are off the highway and may not have any traffic for days on end. So a reliable
jeep and good weather are essential for visiting these places. Diesel vehicles must be capable of handling sub-zero
conditions. The army is responsible for keeping these roads open and are quite efficient at clearing snow and rocks
from the highway but sometimes it can take a day or two in case of heavy snowfall in winter (January - March). It is
best not to attempt the side roads after the first winter snow (usually in late December).

The Mandala - ChabriLa road is still not through; construction is going on about 20+ km beyond Mandala.

Distances
Dirang - Bomdila : 42 km
Dirang - Sangti : 10? km
Dirang - Mandala : 28 km, good forest for another 20 km towards ChabriLa
Dirang to : Sengay 37 km, Baisakhi 45 km, Sela Pass 61 km,
Sela to : ChabriLa 11 km, B.J.Gompa 17 km, Jang 59 km (side road)
Sela to : Jang 37 km, Tawang 77 km (along the highway)
Jang - highest point on Rama Spur road : 32 km
Typical speeds on these hill roads are 20 kmph, both ascending and descending
See also transport in W. Arunachal
(top)

Miscellaneous

(top)

Map of Dirang-Tawang Areas

click here for map details and an overview of W. Arunachal
LEGEND
By Pass BP Off Turn off <NHx>
Bharat Petroleum PP BPCL LC Rail Level Crossing
Credit Card CC LTO Turn LEFT
Check Post CP NH National Highway <x>
Double Road DR PP Petrol Pump
24H
2-lane Road 2L PP 24 hour Petrol Pump
Flyover FO R Road to the Right goes to <Place><x> kms
Hindustan Petroleum
PP HPCL Rel Reliance PP
Indian Oil PP IOC RTO Turn RIGHT
Left Road goes to
<Place><x> kms L S Straight Road goes to <Place><x> kms

Place Time KM Cumm km Comments

Guwahati
Ganeshguri FO 1134 1 457
Guwahati
Ganeshguri M&M 0 457
Guwahati Ulanbari
Hotel Priya Palace 1145 3 460
1150 0 460
1207 pm 8 468 R-Kamakhya Temple
Diesel Halt 1210 3 471
1225 0 471
Jalukhbari 150 1 472 NH37
Guwahati Airport 1243 12 484
Mirza 1250 7 491
Bijoynagar 1254 4 495
Chhaygaon/Gumi 108 14 509
Boko 123 19 528
Dhupdhara 138 20 548
Darkangiri 153 17 565 No PP
Dudnai 200 pm 12 577
Krishnai 214 14 591
Parkan 216 2 593 L-Tura 100,Bajingodtla 22,S-Abhaypuri 51
Soalmari Tinali 229 14 607 LTO,S-Goalpara 8, PP
Naranarayan
Setu/River
Brahmaputra
Bridge 12 619 Pancharatna
3 622 3.6 kms long
Jogigopa 2 624 PP, Workshops
Kabaitary 1 625 NH31B
LC 250 4 629
LC 300 11 640
1 641 LTO,R-???,L-Dhubri 106, Barhi 950
North NH31,LTO,S-Rangiya 133,Pathsala 75, Barpeta Rd 61, Rakhaldubi 13
Salamara/Tulingia 1 642 13, Jalukbari 176
2 644 R-Bongaigaon 14
18 662 IOC PP
Chapar 330 6 668
400 34 702 PP
Mahamaya 410 9 711 Shakti temple
Panbari 422 12 723 BSF Camp
Ghauripur 435 12 735
435 1 736 S-Dhubri
Toll 19 755 No ticket
Bridge 459 1 756
Diesel Halt 517 18 774
525 0 774
Boxirhat 2 776
WEST BENGAL
BORDER 2 778
Tufanganj 540 pm 10 788
Maraganj 12 800 No PP
Cooch Behar BP 603 9 809 L-Cooch Behar
809 Round,R-Alipurduar 20,L-Cooch Behar
14 823 PP
620 2 825 LTO, S-Uttar Sanapur?
Bridge/Last trip
broken 5 830
Falakata 22 852 R-Madarihat???
2 854 LTO,SH12A,S-Birpara
14 868 PP
Drupuguri 720 5 873 SH12A
3 876 LTO, NH31
745 15 891 Trucks, Dhabas
Mal bazaar 751 4 895 LTO,R-Alipurduar, Off NH31
River Teesta Bridge 803 11 906
6 912 L-Jalpaiguri
8 920 PPs
Raninagar BSF 1 921
1 922 Motel
Telephone Call Halt 910 pm 26 948 MitchOnTheRoad called
915 0 948
Fulbari 0 948 LTO,R-Siliguri 2???
0 948
Diesel Halt 920 0 948
940 0 948
Toll/Fulbari 940 0 948
1005 20 968 LTO,NH31,R-Bagdogara/Siliguri
Islampur 1055 50 1018
Villages of Tawang District [20]
Broksher Lumla Roh
Chumba Mago Sakti
Chuna Meruthang Senge Dzong
Jang Mukto Thingbu
Jithang Nuranang Yumkhang
Kangkar Nyuri Zemithang
Lhau Pangchen

Broksher is located in Tawang District and lies on the high altitude trek route from Jang to
Meruthang. It is perched at an altitude of 8500 ft above the sea level and is about 20 km from
Jang and around 18 km downhill of Thingbu.

Chumba is located in Tawang District and is east of Tawang. It lies near Arunachal Pradesh-
Tibet border.

Chuna is located in Tawang District. It is west of Lap.

Jang is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh and lies on Tawang – Bomdila road. It
is situated at altitude of 7000 ft above sea level. Nuranang waterfalls lies nearby. Jang is about
42 km south-east of Tawang.

Jithang is a small village perched at an altitude of 13,372 ft in Tawang District. It falls on the
high altitude trek route from Jang to Meruthang. It can be reached after an 11 km climb along a
gradual rocky slope from Mago.

Kangkar is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is about 6 km from Tawang, the
district headquarters.

Lhau is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is about 3 km from Jang.

Lumla is a picturesque village in Tawang District and one would come across it while on the
way from Tawang to Zemithang. The road enters Nyamjangchu valley after passing Lumla.

Mago lies at an altitude of 12,500 ft above the sea level in Tawang District. It can be accessed by
a 20 km trek from Thingbu. The trek route from Jang to Mago via Thingbu passes through dense
studded with glittering waterfalls. Mago is 10 km downhill from Jithang.

Meruthang, at an altitude of 14,800 ft, is the base camp for those venturing for the Gorichen
ranges of the Arunachal Himalayas. It can be reached by a 10 km exhaustive trek from Jithang.

Mukto is a small village in Tawang District and lies near the Indo - Bhutan border. It falls in the
Mukto – Thingbu taluk and is about 15 km from Lhou Nallah.

Nuranang is a small hilly village in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is situated at an

altitude of about 12000 ft above sea level. The village is famous for the Nuranang waterfalls.
Nuranang is about 40 km from Tawang and lies on the Sela – Tawang road.
Nyuri is located in Tawang District and is about 4 km from Chuna.

Pangchen is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. Tawang, the district headquarters,
is about 15 km away.

Roh, at an altitude of 7800 ft, is located in Tawang District. It is about 10 km from Jang. It falls
on the trekking route from Jang to Broksher. Jang is the nearest place with a road link. Bomdila
is 140 km from Jang.

Sakti (also spelt - Shakti) is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is about 15 km
from Tawang.

Senge Dzong is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is about 16 km from Jang.

Thingbu is a charming village on the hills in Tawang District, along the Roh - Jithang trekking
trail. The hamlet can be reached by an 18 km trek from Broksher.

Yumkhang is a scenic locale in Tawang District and one would come across it while traveling
from Tawang to Zemithang. The place is 85 km north-west of Tawang and about 8 km short of
Zemithang.

Zemithang is a Monpa settlement in Tawang District and lies near the Indo – Tibet border. It is
located at the head of a picturesque vale, created by the river Namjang Chu flowing in from
Tibet. Zemithang lies in the remote and some times isolated north-western most corner of the
district, sandwiched between Bhutan and China. Tawang - the district headquarters – is 93 km
south-east.

Gorsam Chorten, a 100 ft high stupa that soars over the narrow river like a behemoth, is a
stunning sight and hence a tourist hotspot near Zemithang. B T K Waterfalls is a nature's
splendor situated nearby. Many more waterfalls can be witnessed on the way from Tawang to
Zemithang.

Zemithang has a government rest house which should be booked in advance from Tawang. A
few buses operate between Tawang and Zemithang; but hiring a private vehicle would be a better
option.
Some Important Destinations near Tawang
Bomdila is 185 km from Tawang, which is also a major link between Tawnag and other parts of
India. Dirang is at a distance of 143 km from Tawang. Jang is just 42 km away. Lumla is 45
km away. The distance between Tawang & Zemithang is 93 km. Tawang is also connected to
Tezpur (Assam) about 345 km from Tawang. Bhalukpong is 285 km from Tawang

LAKES

P.T.TSO Lake( Pankang Teng Tso): -It is a fetching heaven for tourist only 17 KM away from
maddening crowd of township. It is a beautiful natural site and provide tourist a lucky chance for deep
communion with nature.

SANGETSER LAKE JO-NGA-TSEIR): -It is a lake where observation of nature's beauty, serenity and
sanctity gets a peaceful rest. Visiting this place, tourist can never control themselves in showing Hula-Hula as
so beautiful appearance of nature is here. It is only 42 KM away from Tawang. The lake emerged during 1950
earthquake.

BANGGACHANG LAKE: -It is an anecdotal lake, very attractive for such tourist who would like to travel
101 KM from the township. Many mystical stories, like seeing Gompa, candle light. Jewels and Coins and many
other mysterious and nerve stimulating sites are woven around it. It has interior location and go to in very
verge of it is challenging for tourist. It invites young and enthusiastic tourist to experience it personally in
depth.

PEAKS
SELA PEAK: -
In search of the hidden paradise of Tawang, the Peak of Sela naturally come in the way as a gigantic mountain
of mountains. It entices visitors' keen to imagine what would be the demographically shape and colour of
Tawang on the other side of the peak. The Sela Pass is the gateway of Tawang district. It is at a height of
13714 ft. and proper Tawang main town is 92 km away from Sela. There are two beautiful lakes at Sela which
have been always alluring the visitors for memorable snapshots.

GORICHEN PEAK: -
It is the highest peak in Tawang and is 22500 ft. in height. The snow caped ,sky touching peak of Gorichen is
164 KM away from Tawang township. It has been always a challenging game of stamina for mountaineers
Zeal and determination. Many back packers attempted for successful climbing of its steeply and dizzy heights,
but a few could enjoy success. Located between Tawang and West Kameng districts, Gorichen
Massif is the highest peak (22,500 ft) of Arunachal Pradesh. An ice peak, it borders with China.
It is often referred to as Sa-Nga Phu, which literally means the kingdom of the deity. Hence, it is
considered sacred by Monpa tribe. Gorichen is an ideal base for mountaineering and trekking.

GESHILA PEAK: -
This beautiful peak is the nearest one to Tawang township at a distance of
25 KM via a place called Khrimu. At the top of this peak one can enjoy a
deep solitude. The top of gesela peak offers a unique angle for over viewing
the whole

Kangto Peak lies on the West Kameng District’s border with Tibet. It is a part of the Himalayas
and this 7090 m high peak is one of the unconquered peaks in this part. This snow-clad mountain
is surrounded by thick forests, which limits the mountaineers.

Takpa Shiri is one of the major peaks of the Kangto Section, a part of the Himalayas. Located at
an altitude of 7,047 m in the state of Arunachal Pradesh, it is a holy mountain just north of the
Indian border, near the Tibetan village of Migyitun.

HOTSPRINGS
THINGBU HOT SPRING: -
This hot spring is situated 68 km away from Tawang township. It can be
approached from Jang on foot journey or by a pony ride. From time immemorial this hot spring has
been of utmost use to the local population. This hot spring is known for its medical and therapeutic
value.

TSACHU HOT SPRING: -

A part from hot spring,this site is also suitable for hard trekking. The route of Tsachu
has very attractive land scape and beautiful site. The place can be approached from Tawang after
travelling 4 hours by light vehicle and further 4 hours by foot march.

NUNNERIES

SINGSUR ANI GOMPA: -This Gompa is

one beautiful nunneries of Tawang district.
It is situated at a distance of around 28 Kms
west from the Tawang HQ towards the
Geshila road . It houses around 30(thirty)
Anis (Nuns). The new Singsur anie Gompa
was built by the previous Rev. Gonpatse
Rimpoche in 1960. The old Singsur ani gonpa
is also in existence and is situated in the
midst of the shaa (huts) of the anies. It has
View of Nuns & Nunneries a beautiful land scape around it. It is worth
visiting it as it is not far away from main
road. It is just above Lhou village.

GYANGONG ANI GOMPA: -Gyangong Ani Gonpa BRAMA DUNG CHUNG ANI
is a beautiful Nunnery, having about 50 Bhuddist GOMPA: -Tawang district has a long
Nuns, located on top of a beautiful hillock about five
km away in the north of Tawang founded by Mera Lam
Lodre Gyamtso and was subsequently offered by him
to his elder sisiter. Thus the Gyangong Ani gonpa
came into existence.
This Ani Gonpa is under the administration of
Tawang Monastery. Location of nunnery and the
customs being followed by nuns remind visitors of the
period of Maurya Dynasty, when the Buddhism was
preached in remote hilly areas under the shade of
green trees.
As this ani gonpa is under the administration of
Tawang monastery, the nuns of this monastery get
provision from the Tawang monastery. But the scale of
ration is very low i.e. about 10 containers ( about 250
gms each) of foodgrains per month or about two and
half kg of food grains per month.
tradition of nunneries called "Ani Gonpas",
which are the abode of nuns. Unlike the
monks (Lamas), the girls become nuns and
join the nunnery on their own and there is
no social pressure or tradition making the
practice compulsory.Brama dung chung Ani
gonpa (nunnery) is the oldest Ani Gompa
(Nunnery) in Tawang District . It is situated
in the lap of a far off mountain laced with
natural scenery. It is located at a distance of
9 Kms. from the main town. This nunnery
was constructed by a Lama named Karchen
Yeshi Gelek from Tsang province of Tibet in
the year 1595 A.D. Presently there are forty
five (Anis) nuns in this Monastery. Being
very poor, the inhabitants of
Brahmadungchung Ani Gonpa depend on
begging for sustaining themselves.

TAWANG TREKKING AND FOOD

Tawang is a much undiscovered Trekkers paradise, offering breath taking views, fresh mountain
air, chill weather, and challenging or leisurely treks.

For a rigorous trek ( classified hard), take the Jang - Thingbu - Mago - Goi ichen Base Camp -
Mago (Back) - Luguthang - Sena Chakra - RA-I route.

The softer trekking routes include the Mukto - Gongkhar - Gyamdong - Khet - Kharung -
Bongleng - Kungba - Namsring - Kharteng - Lumla route, and the Tawang Gonpa - Gyangong
Ani Gonpa - Bhramadongchung Ani Gonpa - Tawang routes.
You can also trek along the Namet Village - Zarmang Ani Gonpa - Khromten Gonpa - Geshila -
Klimta - Bomla - Y. Junction - Tawang route, which takes you close to the Chinese border
outpost at Bomla.

Trekkers are advised to come fully attired and prepared for the worst.

Take a walk around the charming town.

Pray at the 400 year old Tawang Gompa. Turn the prayer wheels dotted outside small gompas.
Meet and chat with the friendly Lama monks. Take excursions around town to visit beautiful
glacier lakes and smaller gompas with big histories.

Chat with friendly and beautiful locals.

Take a nap on a hillock if its sunny, be prepared to be awoken by a grazing Yak.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Tawang has a good range of tourist souvenir shops which sell Budhdhist prayer wheels in
colourful wood, chadars (wrap skirts worn by local women), beautiful bags, shawls, brassware,
Budhdha statues. Look for shops in Old Market as well as Tibetan settlement.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Tibetean delicacies like Thupka , momos or simple and delicious Paratha- Sabzi eaten hot from
the roadside shacks on cold misty days are a treat !! Most restaurants in Tawang serve these. A
small shack called Annapurna serves delicious alu ( potato) chips.

The traditional Monpa cuisine use a generous amount of chillies and fermented cheese which has
a strong flavour and is not for the faint hearted.

Some traditional Arunachal dishes are, the famous Momo, widely eaten in the north east and
other Himalayan regions. The Momo is made by stuffing minced Pork and Onions into a dough
and then steamed in a three layer steamer, or fried.

The Thukpa is a soup filled with noodles, minced meat, and vegetables, also known as Der Thuk.
Ashum Thukpa is made of Maize, beans and meat.

Zan is the staple dish of the Monpa tribes. It is usually made of Millet flour. It is usually had with
vegetables or meat to which is added fermented cheese, soya bean or other herbs.

Khura is a pancake, had with tea.

Gyapa Khazi is a kind of Pulao made of rice, fermented cheese, small dried fish or shrimp,
chillies ginger and other spices.

Like all places of travel, some of the best food is found at the small non descript, sometime not
very hygenic, eateries, that serve authentic dishes at very affordable prices. They are sure to be
authentic food of the region as they are most frequented by locals.

Tawang Sightseeing
Tawang Monastery (Gonpa)
Golden Namgyal Lhatse commonly referred to as Tawang Monastery is one of the
largest lamaseries of Mahayana sects and the second oldest Monastery in the
world after Lhasa. This Monastery was founded by a monk Merag Lama Lodre
Gyamtso, a contemporary of His Holiness Fifth Dalai Lama in 1681 AD. The
monastery complex comprises of more than 65 residential buildings meant for
monks. The Monastery also houses the establishment of the Head Priest, living
chambers of the Lamas, an ancient library and antique museum. The most
important building of the monastery is the main assembly hall/ temple called
Duk-hang. It houses the colossal gilded statue of Lord Buddha. Apart from this
are many statues of God and Goddesses preserved for offering prayers. Thangkas
and other art facts antique are well protected. The Monastery is housed with
more than 500 monks. It has also a centre of Buddhist Cultural Studies where
young monks are provided basic education besides traditional monastic
education. Now a day, Tawang Monastery is also light up with tiny bulbs emitting
its perfect shape and size for the viewers at night.

Urgelling Gonpa
This Gonpa is believed to have been in existence since 14th century. It was one
of the first three monasteries built by Urgen Sangpo, the youngest brother of
Terton Pempalingpa, the famous Treasure-Revealer. Dating more than 550 years
ago, the monastery is the birth place of Tsangyang Tashi, His Holiness the 6th
Dalai Lama. He was the son of Lama Tashi Teiizin of Urgelling village a
descendent of Terton Pempalingpa. This Gonpa is about 5 King; away from
Tawang township.

Nunnery
Tawang has many aged old traditional Buddhist Nunneries called Ani Gonpa, In
fact, there is no any hard and fast regulation in the society compelling any girl
child to become a nun but they join nun hood at their own wishes.

Gyangong Ani Gonpa (Buddhist Nunnery)

Jangchub Choeling commonly referred to as Gyangong Ani Gonpa is a Nunnery
beautifully perched on the hillock which is about 5 Kms from Tawang township
founded by Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso and is believed to have subsequently
handed over to his elder sister. One can have a beautiful sight of this nunnery
from Tawang Monastery as well. Anybody wishes to visit Gyangong Ani Gonpa
needs to trek about half an hour from Tawang Monastery. This Nunnery houses
more than 50 nuns.

Brahrna-dung-chung Ani Gonpa

Gaden Thekchen Choeling, popularly known as Brahmadungchung Ani Gonpa is
one of the oldest nunneries in Tawang district located at about 8 Kms from
Tawang township. It was commissioned by Lama Karchen Yeshi Gelek in 1816
AD. Presently the Gonpa is housed with 40 Anis (Nuns). Any visitors wanted to
contribute (cash or kind) towards the welfare of Gonpa is accepted with thanks.

Singsur Ani Gonpa

This Ani Gonpa is at 28 Kms distance from Tawang township towards Ghesila
mountain range. There are many other Ani Gonpa (Nunneries) viz. Zyumay Ani
Gonpa and Ngawang Ani Gonpa in Tawang district

Taktsang Gonpa
Taktsang Gonpa is located at the distance of 45 Kms from Tawang township, is
believed to have consecrated by the visit of Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th
century AD. This Monastery is perched on the ridge of the hillock surrounded by a
dense coniferous forest and lofty mountains. Visitors can also conduct a visit
(Tirth yatra) round about the places nearby Taktsang Gonpa where Guru
Padmasambhava had meditated. It is place where one can really feel the ecstasy
of being alone.
Gorsam Chorten
This is situated 90 Kms from Tawang town. This Stupa is the largest Stupa of the
area. This Gorsam Chorten is believed to have constructed in the early part of
12* century by Lama Pradhar, Monpa monk.

BangaJang Lake
Nature has so lavishly blessed the entire Banga Jang range that one cannot help
resist themselves from exclaiming the fabulous design of the nature. Every year
Pilgrims Tour (Tirth Yatra) round about the Banga Jang range to acquire the
heavenly bliss and Sanctity. A numinous story has a big hold of the area. Apart
from Banga Jang lake, there are number of lakes in the area. ' Deities are
believed to have a strong control over every lake. Many Pilgrims had visited the
place but only few probably pure hearted pilgrims had an experience of
witnessing the deities in lake in different images.

Hot springs
Tawang is endowed with many hot water springs which are known for their
medicinal value. All these hot water springs have high sulpher content which
cures many skin ailments.

Tsachu hot
The water spring can be reached traveling by light motor vehicle for two hours
from Tawang up to Sarong Gonpa and from there one has to trek on foot for
another three hours. Apart from this, there is many other Hot spring available in
Tawang district viz. Kitpi Hot Spring, Thingbu Hot Spring, Greng-khar Hot spring
etc.

ccommodation facilities at different locations

TAWANG (STD Code: 03794)

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION
1. TAWANG INN (Contact No. 224096)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Deluxe Suite 01 (Double bedded) Rs. 1600/- -Do-
Suite 04 (Double bedded) Rs. 1500/- -Do-
Deluxe 02 (Double bedded) Rs. 1000/- -Do-
Semi Deluxe 07 (Double bedded) Rs. 800/- -Do-
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
2. TOURIST HUT (Contact No. 222738)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Deluxe 03 Rs. 500/- TV, Geyser, Heater
3. HOTEL NEFA (Contact No. 222419)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
04 (Double bedded) TV, Geyser,
Deluxe Rs. 500/-
Attached Bath Bhukhari
04 (Four bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 350/- Bhukhari
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
4. HOTEL SAMDUPLING (Contact No. 224213)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Deluxe 06 (Double bedded) Rs. 750/- TV, Geyser, Heater
 Attached Bath
07 (Double bedded)
Semi Deluxe Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser, Heater
Attached Bath
01 (Four bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 450/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
5. HOTEL DOLMA (Contact No. 224131 / 223271)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
02 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 700/-
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Semi Deluxe Rs. 600/-
Attached Bath
02 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 400/-
Common Bath
01 (Four bedded) Rs. 150 per
Dormitory
Common Bath bed
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
6. HOTEL BUDDHA (Contact No. 222954)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
02 (Double bedded)
Super Deluxe Rs.825/- TV, Geyser, Heater
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 715/-
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Classic Rs. 605/-
Attached Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Conference Hall
7. MONYUL LODGE (Contact No. 222196)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
02 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
02 (Triple bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
01 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 450/-
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
8. HOTEL ANAPURNA (Contact No. Nil)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
03 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 850/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
02 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
01 (Triple bedded) Rs. 150 per
Dormitory TV
Attached Bath bed
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
9. HOTEL GOURICHEN (Contact No. 224151l)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
06 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
Semi Deluxe 06 (Double bedded) Rs.450/- Geyser
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
10. HOTEL ALPINE (Contact No. 222515)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
04 (Double bedded)
Super Deluxe Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 350/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
01 (Double bedded)
Semi Deluxe Rs. 300/- TV, Geyser
Common Bath
01 (Triple bedded)
Dormitory Rs. 300/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
11. HOTEL DUNGPHU (Contact No. 223765)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
01 (Double bedded)
Super Deluxe Rs. 900/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
04 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
01 (Double bedded)
Deluxe Rs. 850/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
02 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 450/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Bhukhari provided on demand
12. HOTEL RAINBOW (Contact No. 222348)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
03 (Double bedded)
Super Deluxe Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser
Attached Bath
03 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 450/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Bhukhari provided on demand
13. HOTEL RAINBOW (Contact No. 222348)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Deluxe/Semi
12 rooms - -
Deluxe

14. HOTEL GANGCHIN(Contact No. 224243)

Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
01 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs.600/- TV, Heater
Common Bath
07 (Double bedded)
Economy rooms Rs. 400/- -
Common Bath
Other facilities: Restaurant attached
PAYING GUEST ACCOMMODATION
Sl. No. Paying Guest Accommodation No. of rooms
Kelsang Paying Guest Accommodation
01 03 rooms
(PGA)
02 Snowland PGA 04rooms
03 Seven Sisters PGA (Lemberdung) 03 rooms
04 Tribal Discoveries PGA 02rooms

GOVERNMENT ACCOMMODATION
TOURIST LODGE (Contact No. 03794 - 222359 (O) 223019 (Fax) 222567 (R)
Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities
Rs. 700/- per
VIP Suite 02 (Five bedded) TV, Geyser, Heater
room
Rs. 400/- per
Deluxe 03 (Two bedded) TV, Geyser, Heater
room
Rs. 300/- per
Semi Deluxe 04 (Triple bedded) Geyser, Heater
room
Rs. 200/- per
Economy rooms 10 (Double bedded) Geyser, Heater
room

BHALUKPONG (STD Code: 03782)

Name of Hotel Rooms
Sl. No. & Dormitory
Single Double
Phone Number
Circuit house/IB (PWD)
1 6
234424
Guest House (IFCD)
2 2
234424
Forest Guest House
3 4
234478

BOMDILA (STD Code: 03782)

Name of Hotel Rooms
Sl. No. & Dormitory
Single Double
Phone Number
Tourist lodge
1 8 1 room @ Rs. 20/- per bed.
222049
Circuit House
2 7
222021
Hotel Shipyang Pong
3 10 12 @ Rs. 100/- per bed
222286
Hotel Dawa
4 5
222360
Hotel Bomdila
5 1 6
222416
Hotel Pasang
6 1 5
222627
Hotel Potola
7 1 4
222248
LA Hotel
8 4 6
222097/22416
Sangrilla Hotel
9 5
222226

DIRANG (STD Code: 03780)

Name of Hotel Rooms
Sl. No. & Dormitory
Single Double
Phone Number
Tourist Lodge
1 4
222221/222225
Hotel Pemaling
2 4
222215
IB (P.W.D)
3 4
222221
Shorter route to Tawang
Press Trust Of India / Kolkata/ Itanagar March 10, 2006

With the inauguration of a bridge on the Lumla-Dudunghar road and completion of a new road,
the distance between Guwahati and Tawang town, a popular tourist spot in Arunachal Pradesh,
through Bhutan, has been reduced by 170 km.

The 52-metre long Namtsering bridge on Nyamjangchu river at Lumla was inaugurated by chief
minister Gegong Apang.

It removed a major hurdle in the way of shortening the distance between the two places.

A stretch of 11km of the new road is yet to be constructed.

It will reduce the distance between Guwahati and Tawang by 170km, according to G Rimpoche,
chairman of the advisory council for tourism of Arunachal Pradesh.

On completion of the new road, tourists will be able to come to Tawang without having to make
the journey through Sela pass, he said.

Rimpoche represents Lumla in the assembly.

Dirang - Tawang

General Information

Area : This sprawling region spread over 2 districts is not part of any protected area
Altitude : 1500-4300+ m (all of it accessible by road)
Lat-Long : 27.5N 92.1E, W. Kameng & Tawang districts, Arunachal Pradesh See map
Nodal Locations : Dirang (W. Kameng) and Jang (Tawang)
Vegetation Type : dry inner valleys, cultivation, temperate broad-leaved and conifer forests, scrub, alpine
meadows.
Best Season - Birds : April-June & October-December, depending on snowfall
Best Season - butterflies : monsoon (May - September)
Speciality Birds : Monal pheasant, blood pheasant, Satyr and Temminck's tragopans, black-necked crane, long-
billed plover, ward's trogon, alpine accentor, eyebrowed thrush, white-throated redstart, slender-billed scimitar-
babbler, brown-throated tit-babbler/fulvetta, coal tit, rufous-bellied tit, rufous-fronted tit, eurasian treecreeper, fire-
tailed sunbird, beavan's bullfinch, brown bullfinch, white-winged grosbeak, red-billed chough.
(top)

Birding Areas

3-5 days is required to cover this vast area which has some really special birds. Doing this area by public transport,
other than Sela Pass, is not possible.

Dirang (W. Kameng)

Sangti Valley : (1600m). Dry inner valley with pine stands and cultivation. The only black-necked crane wintering
area in India (1-10 birds in late November-February only)
Mandala - Sela ridge road : (2200-3700m). Temperate broad-leaved forest and scrub, extensive conifer stands
and summer pastures.

Sela Ridge : 3500-4500m. Demarcates the W. Kameng - Tawang district border. Treeline vegetation (conifers,
birch and rhododendron, dwarf scrub) and alpine meadows.
The highway itself has decent roadside birding between Baisakhi (8 km beyond Sengay) and Sela Pass and also
further beyond on the Jang side. A road goes off from the Pass to Chabre La and then to B.J.Gompa. This passes
through extensive alpine meadows and tree-line vegetation.

Jang (Tawang)
Jang - B.J.Gompa road : 2800-4300m. Temperate bamboo, broad-leaved and fir forests; alpine meadows. The
entire road is open during summer; snow conditions determine access rest of the year, when it gets quite chancy
above 3500m.
Jang - Rama Spur road : 2800-3800+m. Temperate bamboo, fir and rhododendron forests with clearings. The road
begins to descend beyond the highest point at 3800m. But one can climb higher on foot.
(top)

Boarding & Lodging

Dirang (1625m, Grade 3) : couple of decent hotels (doubles at Rs. 500-1500) and several other basic ones and
restaurants.
Sengey (3000m, Grade 4) : (3000m ) : PWD IB (2-4 people). CCC!
Sangti : (1600m, Grade 5) : Sheep breeding centre IB (?). Camping by river.
Jang : (2200m - Grade 3) : A PWD IB (8 people). CCC!
B.J.Gompa : (4200m? - Grade 5) : a buddhist monastery, opens during summer. It is in the alpine zone and may be
a good place for exploring the area, if accommodation is available there.
See town grade and accommodation descriptions
(top)

Contact
As of now there is no local contact person in Dirang or Jang. Mr. Indi Glow of Tenga can help with making the
arrangements.
More Information on the area : Ramana Athreya email (rathreya at ncra . tifr . res . in)
Bird Tours : Kaati Tours & Mr. Indi Glow (President, Bugun Welfare Society)
Mr. Glow : Tenga Market, Tenga, W. Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh, Ph 91-3782-273359
Kaati Tours : Ph +91-2132-245770 email (kaati_tours at vsnl . net)

(top)

Entry Permits

Arunachal entry permits are required for both Indians and foreigners and are checked on entry at Bhalukpong. The
Circle Officers at Tenga/Singchung/Bhalukpong/Bomdila/Dirang/Jang can issue fresh permits to extend the stay
(for Indians only). No other permits are required. However, this area has a very heavy army presence; any group of
birders with serious optics should take the time to inform the local army officials of their presence especially if they
plan to wander far from the highway - this is also a good safety precaution in case unseasonal snowfall leaves the
party stranded far from habitation.
(top)

Transport

This is a region of early starts and long commutes with Dirang and Bomdila being the only place for those who
require very comfortable sleeping quarters. Bomdila, Dirang, Sela and Jang lie on the Tezpur-Tawang highway and
are served by several daily buses and shared taxis. But the Sela Pass is the only area which can be accessed solely by
public transport. All other localities are off the highway and may not have any traffic for days on end. So a reliable
jeep and good weather are essential for visiting these places. Diesel vehicles must be capable of handling sub-zero
conditions. The army is responsible for keeping these roads open and are quite efficient at clearing snow and rocks
from the highway but sometimes it can take a day or two in case of heavy snowfall in winter (January - March). It is
best not to attempt the side roads after the first winter snow (usually in late December).

The Mandala - ChabriLa road is still not through; construction is going on about 20+ km beyond Mandala.

Distances
Dirang - Bomdila : 42 km
Dirang - Sangti : 10? km
Dirang - Mandala : 28 km, good forest for another 20 km towards ChabriLa
Dirang to : Sengay 37 km, Baisakhi 45 km, Sela Pass 61 km,
Sela to : ChabriLa 11 km, B.J.Gompa 17 km, Jang 59 km (side road)
Sela to : Jang 37 km, Tawang 77 km (along the highway)
Jang - highest point on Rama Spur road : 32 km
Typical speeds on these hill roads are 20 kmph, both ascending and descending
See also transport in W. Arunachal
(top)
Map of Dirang-Tawang Areas
click here for map details and an overview of W. Arunachal
Jalpaiguri Range

Name & Designation

Office Nos. S.P. ( Jalpaiguri ) Dist. 953561-230492

S.P. ( Cooch Behar ) Dist. 953582-227755 227745

POLICE CONTROL ROOM

Malda

03512
252310/252951

Jalpaiguri

03561

230725/230682

Darjeeling

0354

2254247/2252520

Uttar Dinajpur

03523

252883

Dakshin Dinajpur

03522

255554

Cooch Behar

03582

227800

Name of the District DHUBRI

Area(sq. kms) 2838 Population (1991) 13,25,653 Name of the S. P.
(IPS Cadre Post) Shri Deepak Choudhury, IPS Phone : Office (03662)
230014/230974 Residence (03662) 230004/233354 Fax (03662) 231100 e-
mail - sp_dhub@assampolice.com Other G.Os./C.Is.: Addl. S.P.(HQ)
(03662) 230029 (O), 230017 (R) Addl. S.P. (B) (03662) 231744 (O) Dy.S.P.
(HQ) (03662) 230045 (O), 230028 (R) Dy.S.P. (DSB) (03662) 230028 (O),
233353 (R) SDPO, Bilashipara (03667) 250213 (O) SDPO, Hatsingimari
(03662) 286326 (O) C.I., Bilashipara (03667) 250330 (O) C.I., Mankachar
(03662) 285228 (O)
Name of the Police Station / Out Post :
Name of the Police Station
Phone
1. Dhubri (03662) 230979 2. Golokganj (03662) 287230 3. Bilashipara
(03667) 250221 4. Chapor (03667) 263555 5. Mancachar (03662) 285229 6.
South Salmara - 7. Gouripur (03662) 281428 Name of the OutPost Phone
1. B. N. College T.O.P. (03662) 230074 2. Bazar T.O.P. (03662) 230077 3.
Chagalia (03662) 238637 4. Sapatgram (03667) 281227 5. Bondihana - 6.
Sukchar

GOALPARA

Name of the S. P.
(IPS Cadre Post) Shri Luish Aind, APS Phone : Office (03663) 240161 Residence
(03663) 240026 Fax (03663) 240595 e-mail - sp_gpara@assampolice.com Other
G.Os./C.Is.: Addl. S.P.(HQ) (03663) 240171 (O), 240088 (R) Dy. S.P. (HQ)
(03663) 240172 (O), 240138 (R) C.I., Dudhnoi (03663) 281557 (O)
Name of the Police Station / Out Post :
Name of the Police Station
Phone
1.Goalpara (03663) 240031 2.Dudhnoi (03663) 281542 3.Rangjuli (03663)
286042 4.Dhupdhara
(03663) 284303 5.Lakhipur (03663) 283432 6. Matia (03663) 288001 7.
Baguan* - 8. Marnoi* (03663) 287001
Name of the OutPost
Phone
1. Agia (03663) 285008 2. Kharmuja - 3. Kukurkata - 4. Krishnai (03663)
282225 5. Joleswar -

Name of the S. P.
(IPS Cadre Post) Shri Prithipal Singh, IPS Phone : Office (03713) 222214 Residence
(03713) 222149 Fax (03713) 222198 e-mail - sp_darr@assampolice.com Other
G.Os./C.Is.: Addl. S.P. (HQ) (03713) 222213 (O), 222213 (R) Dy. S.P. (HQ)
(03713) 222122 (O) Dy. S.P. (DSB) (03713) 222175 (O), 222175 (R)
Name of the Police Station / Out Post :
Name of the Police Station
Phone
1. Mangaldoi (03713) 222136 2. Dalgaon (03713) 270072 3. Dhula (03713) 252009
4. Sipajhar (03713) 266426
Name of the Out Post
Phone
1. Burah - 2. Kharupetia (03711) 254283, 224387 3. Daipam -