BRATISLAVA DID YOU KNOW?

Bratislava boasts dozens of quirky

statues, and one of the best loved is the
silver likeness of Ignac Lamar. But just
who is this top-hatted fellow greeting
passers with such ceaseless good cheer?
Well, Ignac was something of a ladies
man, as his cheeky grin may suggest.
But the ... casanova didn't always get it
his own way. No. Indeed, the story goes
that one day, Ignac finally met his
match - he fell head over heels in love.
But it was all doomed. Realizing that he
could not make the lady happy, he
spent the rest of his days wandering the
streets, handing flowers to ladies and
sweets to children. He eventually
passed away in 1967, and perhaps he
found true love in the afterlife...

Of the historic cities on the banks of the Danube, it's Vienna and
Budapest that usually win the most hurrahs from the hussars. But
travellers who want a break from the mighty metropolises of Central
Europe will find a laid back treat in Bratislava, the capital of
Slovakia. Once the coronation city of the Kings of Hungary,
Bratislava is an Old World gem that's sparkling anew having thrown
off the Soviet yoke. It's a beguiling city with many strings to its bow.
And for travellers keen to explore some of Europe's most lyrical
landscapes, the city provides a glorious gateway to the Carpathians
and beyond. Call us biased - but you'd be hard-pushed to find a
more pleasant bunch than the Slovaks. But first things first - click
onwards for tips on all the top places to try in Bratislava, including
bars, restaurants, hotels, shops and places to have fun.

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Bratislava Guide
Recent gore-splatter movies Hostel and
Hostel II weren't exactly what the
Slovakian Tourist Office would have
ordered, but readers can rest assured
that the films were entirely fictional. (If
you spot your hostel owner wielding a
power-drill, don't automatically assume
he's coming to fix your legs - the poor
bloke's probably just mending the
door).
As it goes, the real-life Bratislava is a
resoundingly pretty place. And unless
they've been putting on an act, the
Slovaks are a sweet-natured,
unassuming lot who are more interested
in picking flowers than picking fights
with foreigners.
Bratislava was crowned capital of
Slovakia in 1993. But with a history that
stretches back over a millennium, the
city is no newcomer on the European
scene. Bounced about between the
Hungarians and the Austrians, the city
saw the coronation of 11 Habsburg
sovereigns in the towering Cathedral of
St. Martin's.
The natural focus of Bratislava is of
course the Old Town. Here, cobbled
alleys transport the traveller back to the
age of Beethoven and Liszt. The Royal
Castle looms above, whose
painstakingly restored interiors remain a
magnet for Slovaks and foreigners alike.
But there's much more to Bratislava
than just old world nostalgia. Since the
collapse of the Iron Curtain in 1989, the
city has had to completely reinvent
itself. And that means all the concurrent
perks and pitfalls of a free-market
economy. Cold War nuclear fallout
shelters have been transformed into hip
nightclubs offering techno and trance
shenanigans. Crumbling noblemen's
palaces have opened their doors to
house cosmopolitan restaurants and
bars. And for those in search of retail
therapy, Bratislava now boasts an
enviable assembly of quality stores.
Which brings us to another plus of life in
Bratislava. Of course, it won't remain
this way forever, but the sky-high prices
of so many other Central European
cities are not mirrored in the Slovak
capital just yet.
Finally, if you're curious about spending
some time in Slovakia, you'd be missing
out if you stayed solely within the city
walls. Forty percent of the country is
forested, and the Carpathian Mountain
range that sweeps across Slovakia
provides some of the most memorable
scenery on the European mainland.
Even the Poles concede that the
Slovakian side of the Tatras is the better
bet.
Bratislava Travel Tips
If you think you're going to be covering
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a lot of ground, both cultural and
territorial, pick yourself up a City Card.
All public transport is included, plus
discounts on a host of museums. You'll
also get a free tour of the Old Town.
You can buy the cards at the airport, the
train station and at tourist information
points throughout the city.
As always, even just a few words of the
language can help in winning over the
locals. Follow the link for a few tips.
Try and pre-order taxis. It's cheaper.
And generally, if you have to hail, go for
ones with official company logos, not
the nameless chaps with yellow lamps.
Ice Hockey is the national game of
Slovakia, so if you want to let off steam
Slovak style, why not check out a
match?
Struggling to find a suitable flight from
Bratislava? Try Vienna, as shuttle buses
cover the short distance (45km)
throughout the day. And if you've got
the time, you can check out the Old
Habsburg capital too.
As with all cities, petty theft is not ruled
out, especially in crowded places. If in
doubt, take a money belt.
Culture vultures pre-planning itineraries
should bear in mind that as in much of
Central Europe, museums are often
closed on Mondays.
If you're coming from the Czech
Republic, don't constantly sing the
praise of Prague. Yes, it's a pretty place,
but remember the Velvet Divorce cut
the countries in half in 1993. You
wouldn't wax lyrical about Edinburgh to
a Glaswegian, or Madrid to a bloke from
Barcelona.
If you're here on a stag weekend,
remember you're not the first, so the
lovable rogue persona probably won't
wash. Generally, shouting is unpopular
as is fondling/heckling shapely
strangers. The politer you are, the more
they'll like you. All in all, the cops are
stricter on stags here than in other
countries.
Travellers planning a trip to Slovakia
should have a bash at visiting the
countryside. It's there that you'll find
some of the country's greatest
treasures.
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Travelling to Bratislava
By air
Bratislava's M.R. Stefanik Airport -
named after a proud turn of the century
patriot - lies just 9km north east of the
city. Unless you're flying a private jet P
Diddy style, you'll be looking at
Lufthansa, Czech Airlines or Air
Slovakia. However, one of your best
bets remains the low-cost Sky Europe,
which is in fact based right here in
Bratislava. As of October 2007, a key
route for them will be from London
Luton. Ryanair also have a link in the
pipeline with London Stansted. Finally,
and bizarre as it might sound, travellers
to Bratislava regularly fly direct to
Vienna. The Austrian capital is just 45
km away, and there are shuttle buses
from Vienna Airport to Bratislava
proper.
By rail
Bratislava is plum in the centre of
Europe, so you shouldn't get funny
looks at the ticket office when you ask
about connections (unless you're
dressed as Kermit the Frog that is). In
short, you can get here from just about
anywhere. If you're on the Central
European trail, the following websites
might come in handy, with links from
Austria, Germany and the UK. Slovakia's
internal connections are dealt with on
Slovak Rail, but you'll have to trust your
sense of logic as it's all in the local
lingo.
By bus
Seemingly gentle people can
metamorphosize into profoundly
embittered old buggers after a night's
sleep (or more accurately lack of sleep)
on a bus. Still, prices are competitive
and you really feel you've earnt your
holiday when you reach the other end.
If you're thinking of busing it, try
Eurolines, who operate services to
Bratislava from far-flung destinations
like London and Rotterdam, as well as
local links from Prague and elsewhere.
By car
Motorways stream out of Bratislava in
all directions, making it a
straightforward destination if you're
coming from the Czech Republic,
Hungary and Austria. Having a car in
Slovakia will also help you get to grips
with the countryside, surely one of the
top draws for any motorist in the region.
It's only with your own set of wheels
that you can scratch the surface. From
the European perspective, driving is
much freer these days as border
controls have fallen into the background
since the EU expansion. But be sure to
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buy a road pass as soon as you get into
the country at the nearest petrol station
or other store. They sell for about 5
Euro. If not, you risk a 100 Euro fine
and a lot of hassle. It's a Slovakian
quirk they'll never tell you about but
unless you're in a generous mood, we
think it's important you know
beforehand. Happy driving.
Getting around Bratislava
By Public Transport
Generally you're not going to need to
plunge yourself into parallel worlds of
underground trains or fighter
helicopters. Bratislava is a pretty
compact place - the Old Town is entirely
pedestrianised and there is indeed no
metro system. However, if you're
staying beyond the fringe of the Old
Town you may need to hop on a bus or
tram from time to time. Daily passes
are available that give you access to all
running services, but you can also snag
a shorter journey from the numerous
kiosks and yellow vending machines
that dot the city. It's 14 SKK for a ten
minute ride, 18 for half an hour. To
avoid embarrassing scenarios, buy your
ticket beforehand and stamp it
immediately after climbing aboard.
By Taxi
Although the Old Town is technically a
no go zone for cars, taxis maintain the
right to drop you off at your hotel door.
As in most cities, avoid vehicles that
don't seem equipped with legitimate
company ID. If you order a taxi
beforehand from a restaurant for
example, you're liable to get a more
reasonable fare. As a rule, genuine taxi
firms - and there are 15 of them in the
Brat - offer cheaper rates if you call in
advance. For a pre-ordered taxi, it's
about 14 SKK per km, whilst for a hailed
cab it's about 20. Add to this the 20
SKK (0.6 EUR) starting fee and you'll
soon be as wise to it all as the locals.
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Botel Gracia Restaurant
Aquatic restaurant with ravishing
views
This one really comes into its own
during the summer months, when you
can raise a toast on the upper deck in
true mafioso style. Moored right at the
foot of the Royal Castle, Botel Gracia
has plenty of food for the eye as well as
the stomach. That said, the inner
sanctum is not quite so sweeping, with
bland decor that would benefit from a
swift overhaul. On the menu you'll find
a pretty wide range of fare to choose
from, including Central European,
Italian and Mexican classics. But a glass
of bubbly on the rooftop remains the
clincher.
Razusovu nabrezie
tel: +421 (2) 54432132
www.botelgracia.sk/en/index.php
Camouflage
Snazzy choice for gastronauts
The best form of camouflage in this
restaurant would be a snow white suit
with matching shirt and tie. On that
note, you may have trouble spotting
some of the waiters. But not to worry,
the food should taste equally inspiring
whatever you're wearing. Monsieur le
chef whisks up all sorts of wonderful
dishes, from seared scallops to loin of
venison. And although housed in the
Erdody Palace, the decor is a far cry
from old school aristo style. It's
certainly not your cheapest pit-stop in
town, but if you're in the mood for
splashing out, this one's a distinctive
option.
Venturska 1
tel: +421 (2) 20922722
www.camouflage.sk
Taste Restaurant UFO
Iconic hangout with extraterrestial
flavour
This high-flying haunt looks like one of
Dr.Evil's illicit hideaways. But sadly,
once you've taken the lift to the top
there's no sign of a bald-headed Austin
Powers villain to usher you inside.(And
you even had to pay for the privilege!)
But not to worry. The eye-popping view
more than makes up for the lack of
arch-villains. And there are plenty of
perks for epicures too. Inside the UFO
you can sip a cocktail with local movers
and shakers, or sit down for a meal and
enjoy the view. Mediterranean and
Asian flavours predominate here at
Taste, but the main draw remains the
setting.
Novy Most
tel: +421 (2) 62520300
www.u-f-o.sk
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Kogo Unbuckle your swash...
Pogo into Kogo Sladkovicova 7
tel: +421 (2) 54430019
This suave number is the Slovak sister www.trajamusketieri.sk
of the slick Prague eatery of the same
name. Kogo casts its net into the
Mediterranean orbit, with favourite
dishes such as grilled octopus or sea Pizza Mizza
bass in a salt crust. However, it's not all Grab a pizza the action
fishy in the Kogo realm. The restaurant Tobrucka 5
prides itself on its homemade pasta, tel: +421 (2) 52965034
and the chef rustles up over 35 varieties www.pizzamizza.sk
of Italy's favourite dish. The decor is
sleek enough to meet the approval of
any wandering playboy, with a cool
minimalist interior that's as smooth as a Veza Restaurant
polished pebble. The well-appointed Towering treat for gastronauts
terrace makes dining out in summer a Cesta na Kamzik 14
real pleasure. tel: +421 (2) 44462774
Hviezdoslavovo nam. 21 www.veza.sk
tel: +421 (2) 54645094
www.kogo.sk
Malecon
Havana in Bratislava
When Winter rears its head it's handy to
know that you can nip into Malecon for
a blast of Latin razzmatazz. This
Havana-themed hangout packs them in
no matter what the weather. With live
bands strumming their stuff and
cocktails galore, you'll soon forget that
February has 27 days left to run.
Peckish punters have a choice of both
tapas and more substantial fare, with
tempting dishes such as Butterfly
Lobster and Lasagna al Salmone on the
main menu. And if you really want to go
Castro, Malecon has a roster of
hand-rolled cigars to get stuck into.
Namestie L. Stura 4
tel: +421 (0) 910274583
www.malecon.sk
Tempus Fugit
Time to treat yourself
Time may fly, but at this restaurant you
often feel that you've left the real world
behind entirely. Set in an imaginatively
restored mansion that comes replete
with stout Renaissance arcades, Tempus
Fugit is a bold blend of the old and the
new. Sleek modern tables sit
comfortably by worn classical columns,
whilst hidden chambers are enlivened
by murals of jungle foliage. In this
unusual environment, guests can dine
on a range of local and international
fare, with everything from Tom Yam
Gung to Roast Suckling Pig on the
menu. Round it off with a Tempus Fugit
cheesecake, served with forest fruits.
Sedlarska 5
tel: +421 (2) 54414357
www.tempusfugit.sk
Traja Musketieri
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UFO
Identified stationary object
One look at this lofty venue atop of the
Novy Most (New Bridge), and you'll see
how the saucer-shaped bar earned the
moniker UFO (even if technically it's
neither unidentified or flying). Anyhow
the little green men who landed it
seemed to have set off to explore the
planet, leaving the current owners a
prime opportunity to set up their
restaurant-cum-club. You'll have to pay
for the elevator up, but once at the top
you'll find yourself in a perfect position
to watch the sunset over Bratislava,
cocktail in hand. Just be sure to get
there early, because UFO's often out of
space...
Novy Most
tel: +421 (2) 62520300
www.u-f-o.sk
Subclub
Swim against the mainstream
If a slice of subculture is what you're
after then you'll most likely find it at
Subclub, Bratislava's foremost house
and techno joint. The venue was once a
nuclear fallout bunker (inevitably), and
a subterrranean labyrinth of corridors
(eerily lit by red strip lights),
punctuated by the cavernous dancefloor
and bar, evoke an appropriate
atmosphere for a night of thumping
bass and hedonism. If genres such as
'minimal' and 'microhouse' don't mean
much to you then keep an eye out for
ragga, rock and drum and bass nights.
As long as it's not commercial you'll find
it at Subclub.
Nabrezie arm. gen. L. Svobodu
tel: +421 (2) 54411183
www.subclub.sk
Trafo Music Bar
Another Martini darling?
Bratislava's beautiful people enjoy
hobnobbing at this swanky joint, pitched
along the lines of a metropolitan
nightclub that you might find in
high-flying cities like New York and
London. A 15 metre concrete bar props
up cocktail swiggers, whilst a dance
floor supports the gyrations of various
nymphets and naughty boys keen to
impress them. Fashion launches and
media parties are run-of-the-mill at
Trafo, so if you want to try it on with
Slovakia's finest cheekbones or rub
well-tailored shoulders with the nations
not so famous celebrities, now's your
chance.
Venturska 1
tel: +421 (2) 20922744
www.trafo.sk
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Cirkus Barok Grandes Melones
Get in on the act Vodka-fuelled find will melons on
A ramshackle boathouse provides the the mind
setting for much naughtiness at this Laurinska 3
popular disco just by the Hotel Danube. tel: +421 (2) 54418211
Club purists won't be impressed, but www.grandesmelones.sk
Cirkus Barok is all about entertainment
and it certainly fulfills its mission brief.
Theme parties, drinks promotions,
happy hours and dance anthems of
every genre whip the crowd into a
frenzy of excitement. On top of that
visitors to the Cirkus are treated to
plenty of performance artists (amateur
and professional!), and things certainly
get pretty spicy during their 'Erotic
Parties'. Time to get in on the act!
Razusovo nabrezie
tel: +421 (2) 54642091-3
www.bratislava-life.com
Slang Pub
Take a dive
Duck off of Hviezdoslav Square and into
this popular dive across from the
Radisson Hotel. Inside you can expect
an ample assortment of tourists,
ex-pats and locals alike not exactly
taking advantage of the extensive beer,
wine and food selection. Rather Zlaty
Bazant is the order of the day, so grab a
stool at the long bar and start getting
chatted up by overly friendly and overtly
strange stoolfellows. It's all part of the
unpolished, absorbent atmosphere of
this wooden wine barrel of a bar. As far
as food goes try the BBQ ribs, which are
a tasty departure from what you might
expect.
Hviezdoslavovo nam. 23
tel: +421 (0) 908798052
www.slangpub.host.sk
The Dubliner
Sports and Guinness
Every city's got at least one, and The
Dubliner is a decent stab at that much
loved institution, the Irish Pub. A
homely interior of wooden tables and
chairs, traditional hearth and the odd
timber beam is spiced up with the
customary photos, flags and
memorabilia. More importantly a large
screen winds down onto which is
projected 'the big game', meaning the
Dubliner is never short of a crowd come
match day. Needless to say if it's a slice
of Slovenian culture you're after then
stay clear of the Dubliner... But if you've
just arrived in town then it's a good
place to meet some expats and sink a
cheap pint of Guinness.
Sedlarska 6
tel: +421 (2) 54410706
www.irish-pub.sk
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Slovak Philharmonic
String along for some classical bliss
Haydn, Liszt, Bartok and Beethoven all
made the trip to Bratislava in times
past, and it seems only right that one of
the most beautiful buildings in town is
the Philharmonic Hall. The baroque belle
plays host to the creme de la creme of
Bratislava's concerts, so if you're in
search of some musical bliss, look no
further. As it goes, the 'Reduta' building
wasn't always home to the Philharmonic
- the edifice has served variously as a
Habsburg granary and one of
Bratislava's very first cinemas. Major
renovation works are planned for 2008
but the annual Bratislava Music Festival
will continue to run.
Palackeho 2
tel: +421 (2) 54433352
www.filharmonia.sk/

St. Martin's Cathedral

Gothic great with royal pedigree
Few buildings in Bratislava are as
steeped in history as St. Martin's. Some
nineteen Hungarian kings and queens
were crowned in the cathedral during
the years 1563-1830. And on a musical
note, Beethoven premiered his moody
Missa Solemnis right here. The stout
Gothic edifice hasn't had the easiest of
rides though. There was considerable
alarm in recent years over the rumbling
reverberations of nearby traffic.
Concerted efforts had to be made to
consolidate the structure. However, this
hasn't stopped the cathedral from
remaining a favourite for classical
concerts, as well as the focal point for
the city's spiritual life. Long may she
continue to prosper.
Rudnavovo nam
www.fara.sk/dom/

Royal Castle
Clamber up for a royal view
Crowning a renegade hill that seems to
have escaped from the Little
Carpathians, the Royal Castle has
adorned Bratislava since time
immemorial. The first stone fort was
raised here in the tenth century but it
was rebuilt many times over the years.
During the early modern era the edifice
was the main castle of the Kingdom of
Hungary, but desecration during the
Napoleonic Wars all but finished the
place, and committed reconstruction did
not begin again until as late as 1953.
Today, you don't have to be a
moustachioed nobleman to gain access,
as a museum welcomes all comers.
Bratislavsky hrad
tel: +421 (2) 54411444
www.snm-hm.sk/eng/index.htm

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 tel: +421 (2) 5443 2021
www.casinos.sk

Aupark
Fill those suitcases!
Einsteinova ul. 18
tel: +421 (2) 68 266 111
www.aupark.sk
UPMARKET
Hotel Spirit
Polus City Centre Madcap mansion with bags of
Hey, Big Spender... character
Vajnorska 100 Vancurova 1
tel: +421 (2) 49 10 2030 tel: +421 (2) 54777561
www.poluscitycenter.sk www.hotelspirit.sk

Tesco Hotel Marrols

The Eiffel Tower of Bratislava Old World elegance
Kamenne namestie 1/A Tobrucka 4
tel: +421 (2) 59218444 tel: +421 (2) 57784600
www.itesco.sk www.hotelmarrols.sk

Uluv MID-RANGE
Start giving a folk
Obchodna 64 Botel Gracia
tel: +421 (2) 527 31351 Floating hotel with fantastic view
www.uluv.sk Razusovu nabrezie
tel: +421 (2) 54432132
www.botel-gracia.sk
Stara Trznica
Home-grown
Stara Trznica HOSTELS
www.bratislava-life.com
Patio Hostel
Popular pitstop for backpackers
Spitalska 35
tel: +421 (2) 52925797
www.patiohostel.com

Dino Park
Before weaklings inherited the Downtown Backpackers
earth Join the revellers Downtown
Mlynska dolina 1 Panenska 31
tel: +421 (2) 65422848 tel: +421 (2) 54641191
www.dinopark.sk www.backpackers.sk

Bratislava Zoo
Where the wild things are
Mlynska dolina 1
tel: +421 (2) 60102111
www.zoobratislava.sk

Bobova Draha
Cool runnings
Sartorisova 10
tel: +421 (2) 5477 1025
www.consultingbk.sk

Casino Cafe Reduta

Get that chip off your shoulder
Medena 3

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