PM-01 “Bolter” 9mm Luger Carbine

Disgned by Petr Malik

For Educational Purposes Only! I’m not responsible, in any shape or

form, for the acts of others.

For those who do not know, the PM-01 (Petr Malik-gun #01) “Bolter” is the creation
of Petr Malik (a.k.a. Halik). The “Bolter” in PM-01 signifies the 35 plus screws used in its
design instead of permanent welds. It is chamber in 9mm Luger (9X19 for our European
friends) and utilizes modified Sten MKIII SMG bolt, magazine well and 32 round magazines.

Basic Specs:

Total length: 36-37 in.

Total weight: 7-8lbs (unloaded)
Action: blow-back
Action springs: two SAS3 Sten springs
Bolt: modified Sten MKIII
Barrel: UZI 9mm 19in. chrome lined
FCG: Semi-auto Ak-47 FCG
Buttstock: Galil Thumbhole
Trigger guard: 1in. 1 in. “U” pipe bracket
Firing pin: Modified Mauser firing pin
Magazine well: Sten MKIII
Upper Receiver: 1.5X1.5X.083 Square tube
Lover Receiver: 1X1X.065 Square tube
Trunions: 1.5X1.5X3/8 Square A-2 Tool steel blocks

Items needed for build:

• 24” section-1.5X1.5X.065-.120 (I used .083) Square Tube (Upper Receiver)

• 12” section-1X1X.60-.120 (I used .065) Square Tube (Lower Receiver)
• 4 pcs.-1.5X1.5X3/8 Square A-2 Tool steel blocks (Trunions)
• 2 pcs.-9” hardened rods (Dual Guide Rods)
• 1 in. “U” pipe bracket (Trigger Guard)
• ½” dia plumbers piper (black pipe) (barrel spaces)
• AK-47 Semi-Auto FCG plus springs and pins
• Sten MKIII Bolt
• Sten MKIII Magazine Well
• Mini UZI 9mm Barrel (16 in. minimum for rifle)
• Mauser Firing Pin.
• Galil Thumbhole Stock
• Dremel and all the useful accessories like cut off wheel, grinding stones,etc.
• Good set of files, and drill bits (read COBALT), sand paper, etc.
• Drill Press (very useful thought not necessary)
• 5/8” Drill Bit, 27/64” Drill Bit.
• Propane torch & silver solder kit.
• Stainless Steel Screws: 10-32, ¼, 6-32, 8-32
 For those who are wondering right now, no this is not step by step machinist’s instructional
manual but rather a general “how to” with only general dimensions given and the rest is up to
you. You don’t have to follow all the dimensions to the point, the dimensions is just what I
chosen since it fitted my need,

Upper Receiver:

1. Take the 1.5” Square Tube and cut it to 17.25 inches. Then marked off 8 inches from one
end of the tube, this is you action part of the upper receiver, the rest is the barrel
sleeve/shroud.

2. Ejection Port: Cut 1.25LX0.75W rectangular ejection port approx 7/8” behind the 8” mark
on the action part of the receiver. (See Pics)

3. Magazine Well Port: Get hold of Sten SMG template and cut out the magazine well cut-out.
Tape it on approx. ½” from the 8” mark on the action side and cut out.

4. Grind the semi-circular top of Sten magazine well down to flat so it can be fitted to the
upper receiver. Temporarily secure the mag well to the upper receiver with a silver solder.

5. FCG Port: Cut 2.5LX0.50-.75W rectangle FCG port approx. 3.5” from the 8” mark. Then
action part part of the Upper Receiver is now 90% finished. (See Pics)

Slots: The number of slots and their relative size is really up to you. Just
6. Barrel Sleeve Slots:
don’t forget that the trunion block is milled on the Mini UZI barrel 6” from the breech, so if
you have a gap 6” from the 8” mark on the barrel side of the receiver you will have to add a
spacer made from the ½ dia. black pipe. In my case, I went for 3 equally spaced, equally long
slots all the way around the tube, 5/8” in width. I also had to add ½” spacer between the
trunion and barrel block.(See Pics)

7. Bolt Handle Slot: You going to have to hold off on this one until you have the bolt fitted
inside the action to get the right distance from the top, but the slot should be 4LX0.25W and
5/8” from the 8” mark. (See Pics)

8. Rear Receiver Slant: Cut right triangles on left and right side of the receiver .75” vertical
and 1” horizontal. Cut it so that the horizontal cut is flat with the inner top side of the receiver;
DO NOT cut the top side of the receiver yet. Now make a relief cut on the inside of the top side
to make it bend easier. Heat it up with propane torch and bend to match the slant. Now cut the
top side 1-2mm after the bend. (See Pics)

9. Barrel Trunion Holes: Again, no rocket science here. There are two holes per side for 10-32
screws. Each is 3/8” from the edge. I played it safe and put 2 on each side but you could have
easily put one on each side or combination 1&2.

10. Rear Action Trunion Holes: Two holes on the bottom side 3/8” from the edge for 8-32
screws. One hole on each sides approx. 3/8” from the bottom
11. Rear Slant Cover: Cut 2”long flat piece from the remaining 1.5” square tube as described
in step #8. Make a relief cut and bent it to fit the slang as best as possible. Cut the excess. Drill
two for 6-32 screws to attach to the rear action trunion. (See Pics)

Steps: #2, #5
#6, #7
#8, #11
Lower Receiver:

1. Take the 1” square tube and cut it to 5.5”in length or so it’s 1/8” longer then the upper
receiver when the lower touches the mage well.

2. FCG Slot: Cut 3.5”LX0.75”W rectangular port on the top of the lower receiver 7/8” from
the end of the tube. The edge you measure the 7/8” is now the muzzle direction end.

3. Pin Holes for FCG: Get hold of ak-47 template, I used one from Ace. Cut off the area with
the hammer and trigger pins, LEAVE OFF the FA sear pin. Align and tape it onto the lower
receiver so that the center of the trigger pin is 3/8” off the bottom edge.

4. Trigger Slot: Cut 5/8”X5/8”square trigger slot 2.75” from the muzzle end of the lower
receiver.

5.Hammer: Grind the pin sleeves to fit the lower. Cut off the wing of the 2nd hook (useless) and
minize the size of the 1st hook wing (do that after to put the FCG inside the lower). LEAVE the
disconnector untouched. (See Pics)

6. Trigger: Cut off the hook ramp so it doesn’t protrude inside the upper when installed. (See
Pics)

7. Buttstock Screw Hole: Drill big enough hole for the Galil stock screw approx. 4&11/16”
from the muzzle end. Then make angled spacer for the buttstock nut to align right with the
butt stock screw. Finally glue or JB weld the two permanently to the lower receiver. (See Pics)

8. Buttstock Stud Hole: Drill a hole big enough to fit snuggly against the buttstock stud (mine
was 5/16” dia. aluminum rod) ½” from the buttstock screw hole ½” center-to-center. Use that
hole to drill a hole on the other side of the tube big enough to clear ¼ screw. (Basically you
drilling through hole with two different diameters) (See Pics)

9. Upper to Lower Lock; Take the upper and align it with the lower. The lower should hit the
mag. well at the magazine release line. Cut a ¼” long notch from each side into the M.W.
wrap-around when the two meets all the way through the wrap-around. Now cut inletting in
the lower receiver to clear the wrap-around and the bras button. (See Pics).

10. Upper to Lower Screw: Clamp the lower and upper together and drill a hole for 10-32 tap
through all three sides approx 0.75” from the mag. well. Tap only the bottom side of the lower
and re-drill the two holes in the upper to clear the 10/-32 screw. Also while the two are clamp
together finish the rear Upper to Lower screw. Drill and tap a hole for ¼ screw centered in the
buttstock stud tru-hole (Basically what you are doing is fastening the rear of the upper and
lower together and then using the hole you inserted the screw driver as the insert hole of the
buttstock stud).

11. Trigger Guard: Take the 1 in. “U” pipe bracket and bend it to your preference. Mine is
standard ak style 1.75” long and 9/8” tall. Align the T.G. to clean the trigger travel and drill
and tap (10-32) the front (muzzle) part of the trigger guard only. The rear side doesn’t need
attaching as it will get clamped between the lower and buttstock.
Steps:
#2, #5
#6, #7&#8
#9&#10 upper, #9&#10 lower
Bolt Assembly:

1. Take the bolt and cut it in two at the rear “step” where the reduced diameter mid body
meets the raised rear bolt sleeve. (See Pics)

2. Grind the top and sides of the bolt (leave the bottom alone) to fit inside the upper receiver.

3. Guide Rails & Firing Pin Holes: If you have lathe or other precision machining tools you
can do this step, otherwise one must have it done at machine shop like I did. All three holes are
drilled in line and the two guide rail holes are equal distance from the firing pin (Measure the
distance between G.R. center-to-center for later use). The sizes of the guide rail holes and
firing pin will vary depending on the size of the rods you choose to use and thickness of the
Mauser firing pin which may vary. In my Case I used 9/16” drill for the guide rails. (See Pics)

4. Bolt Handle Hole: To make life easier, I decided to use the existing extractor pin hole as the
stop for bolt handle. Drill and tap deep enough for 10-32 screw, but leave approx 1/8” un-
drilled for the extractor pin to insert to. Screw in the bolt handle; insert the extractor pin and
cut off the excess. (See Pics)

5. Recoil Spring Slots Reaming: Use initial guide rail holes you drilled and drill 27/64” holes
approx 1.5” deep from the back of the bolt. Take you time and go slow since bits are prone to
slip and walk around. (See Pics)

6. Firing Pin & Firing Pin Hole Reaming: On this one you are pretty much alone. Modify the
tip of the firing pin (the thinnest portion) to 5/8” in length. Modify the main body (the thickest
portion) so it starts approx. 2” from the tip of the firing pin. Ream the firing pin hole
according to your firing pin to make it slide freely. Finally, drill a spring pocket into the bolt
body so spring is squished between the pocked edge and the second step in the firing pin. (See
Pics)

7. Firing Pin Retaining Screw & Retaining Slot: Drill and tap a hole for 6-32 screw approx. ¼”
from the edge of the bolt. Then machine a 1/16” deep retaining screw slot into the firing pin
that will allow for full travel. (See Pics)

8. Grind down the feedings lips to the level of the bolt face.

9. Slat the bottom edge of the bolt for easier cocking.

Steps:
#1, #3&#8
#4, #5&#9(upside down)
#6&#7, #7
Trunions:

1. Barrel Trunions (3): Take the three trunoins and drill 5/8” hole in the center of each. Align
them with the trunion holes drilled in the upper receiver. Center punch the centers of the holes
to be drilled and tapped (10-32). Finally round off the edge of the chamber trunion for proper
feeding, and set correct headspace (the bolt face should come in contact with chamber trunion
without wedging the round into the chamber) by adding correct size barrel spacer.

2. Grind or turn down all 4 trunions to fit inside the upper receiver.

3. Rear Action Trunions: Align it with the turnion holes drilled into the rear of the upper
receiver. Drill and tap to the wanted size. Grind of machine the rear trunion to match the slant
of the receiver. Then, drill and tap two holes for 6-32 screws at the back of the trunion for the
receiver slant cover. (See pics)

4. Guide rail installation: Use the determined distance between the two guide rail holes center-
to- center acquired earlier to get the right guide rail hole locations. Vertically they should be
located in the middle of the trunion. Drill the holes 3/16”deep on each trunion (rear action and
chamber). Finally JB weld the guide rails to the rear action trunion.

5. Lower Receiver Screw Clearence: Drill two holes of the appropriate size an the end of the
lower receiver to clear the two bottom rear trunion screws. (See Pics)
Stock:

1. Inlet the stock for the Trigger guards. (See Pics)

2. Buttstock Stud: Drill a hole of fit the buttstock stud and glue it in.(See Pics)

3. Fill up the space between the receiver and stock with wood insert.

4. Add wood insert to the inletting on the left side of the pistol grip. (See Pics)

There all that’s to it!!! Well other then sights, metal finish etc., but I’m leaving that up to you.
And if you did it right you final product should look something like this….

Feel free to email me at peetee@flashmail.com if you have any questions.