Overview: This lesson is intended to teach one method for passing a knot on an abseil.

The method explained will be for a single rope rappel.

Time: This lesson should take approximately 1 hour to demonstrate, reproduce, and
practice passing a knot.

Pre requisites: Before starting this lesson instructors and students should be competent in
the following skills: anchor building and rappel, use of an ATC and prussic, tying
together ropes or isolating a damaged section with the appropriate knot, using a cow tail,
and understanding the concept of redundant safety measures on a rappel.

Justification: This skill is important because it allows the climber to pass a damaged
section of rope or the knot on ropes tied together on a double length rope rappel.

Goal: By the end of this lesson the student should be able to pass a knot on rappel safely
and efficiently.

Objectives: Student should be able to rappel down to the knot and remain safe while
moving their rappel device below it.

Equipment and Area: Practice area should be a steep hill under class 4 terrain so that the
climber can fully weight the rope for accurate vertical practice. Gear needed: climbing
rope, harness, 2 prussics, rappel device (ATC, figure-8, etc.), helmet, and appropriate
footwear.

Introduction: This lesson should begin with a start to finish demonstration of the passing
a knot skill. Next a step by step explanation of each element in the progression with
purpose and safety measures shown in detail. Another demonstration from start to finish
should be performed so that the students can see the skill again with the knowledge of
why each step is important. Finally allow the students to practice this skill on their own
with instructor supervision.

Plan:
1. Explain to students when passing a knot is appropriate
2. Set up a single rope rappel off a secure NO REASON anchor
3. Put a knot on the rappel line to act as the ‘isolator’ knot for the damaged section and
also another knot to create a loop that can be clipped into for safety
4. Perform buddy checks on harnesses and put device on the rappel line with a backup
prussic below and double check that the prussic is holding and not slipping with full
weight
5. Abseil down to about 3 ft above the knot, set prussic, and clip cows tail into knot loop
6. Attach medium length prussic from harness to above the rappel device using a French
prussic. Prussic should not be so long that it cannot be reached when fully extended.
7. Remove bottom prussic and device from above the knot and reattach them both below
the knot as close to the base of the knot as possible. Climber weight should now be on the
top prussic with the cow tail clipped in the loop as backup
8. Take tail end of the rope and wrap 3 times around one leg to prevent rope slipping
through device and bottom prussic.
9. Release top French prussic and lower the climber weight down on to device below. If
done correctly weight should be on leg wraps and device so that the upper prussic can
easily be removed
10. With the bottom prussic set the final step is to unclip cow tail from the knot loop and
continue with the abseil

Terms: No new terms outside what should be know in the prerequisite category are being
introduced in this lesson

Assessments: Student should be able to demonstrate the skill of passing a knot efficiently
and safely. Have the student perform and explain each step. Student upon achieving
competency should be able to perform this skill in a vertical hanging environment
without using their legs on the wall or slope to manage weight transfer.

Follow up lessons: Passing a knot on a twin rope set up and having multiple climbers
pass the knot would be more advanced lessons that employ this basic skill just learned.

Considerations: Safety of students is important in this lesson. If passing is done

incorrectly there can be potential to fall. Instructor must make sure to explain and ensure
safety measures are taken at all times. Choosing an appropriate venue is imperative. If
weight transfer is done incorrectly prussics can become stuck and cannot be removed
under full weight. Having the ability to un weight the rope is very useful in a practice
setting.