GSG-5 Ideas

GSG Mods - Firing Pin, Mags, Buffer Stop, Screw Replacement, Fake Can, Laser, Lower...
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GSG Mods - Firing Pin, Mags, Buffer Stop, Screw Replacement, Fake Can, Laser, Lowers (Page 1 of 4) New Topic Reply Forward Subscribe
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:06 AM [Last Edit: 2/1/2010 3:49:44 PM by jackal2001]
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A PDF book from the Accessories and Modifications threads for GSG-5 owners to download. It's 89 pages in length.
It can be downloaded HERE.
Firing Pin Mod by jackal2001
Moderator I have seen some reports on the net of people having issues after firing 200 rounds or so then getting light primer strikes or failures of rounds to go off. I picked up a case off the ground at the range that
Joined: Sep 2004 someone else was shooting from another .22 and took it home and ran it in my GSG-5 to show a comparison of the primer strike. The GSG-5 doesn't hit as hard as some other weapons. Out of 550 rounds of
PA, USA Federal Value Pack ammo, I personally had a dozen or so rounds fail to go off initially, but when they were re-fed, they went off. I don't know if it is a light primer strike issue, or there was no primer on those
sections of the casing.
Posts: 3175 Update from a GSG email sometime around 4/2/08:
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"We have improved during the production/assembling of the first lot a little bit the design of the firing pin. So your new firing pin and all other firing pins we have produced after the
change have this improvement."
Anyway even after using a "new" firing pin that GSG sent me I was still having light strikes so I decided to mod my firing pin. Below are the results and instructions.
2 Left Cases - Factory Firing Pin

2 Right Cases - New Firing Pin + Modifications
550 rounds - 1 Failure to Fire after the mods were done. It was a dead round.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=41&t=244302 1/29/2011
GSG Mods - Firing Pin, Mags, Buffer Stop, Screw Replacement, Fake Can, Laser, Lower... Page 2 of 31
Tools used were a Nicholson Hobby File Set (42030) found at Home Depot or Lowes and you will need a vise to hold the firing pin while working on it.
Disclaimer: You break it - I didn't buy it.

Procedure:
1. Put the firing pin (refered as FP from now on) in the breech block (refered as BB from now on) and push it all the way forward so part B will be up against part G and be in the most forward position.
2. I then examined part A to see if it was flush with D using a new razor blade, only strait edge I had. If part A was not flush, I proceded to file A until it was flush with the BB as shown like D.
3. Once part A is flush with the BB face, we need to file back part B a few thousands. Since we have part A flush with the BB face, we can see how far we are filing part B by how far part A will start
past the BB face again. File part B back so part A will extend past the BB face. I did this all by eye and constantly put the firing pin back in the BB in the most forward position where part B goes up against
G.
4. Once you have more part B filed back, you need to re-file back part A so that it is almost exactly flush with the BB face again as shown in D. Get is as best as you can. Again I just used a new razor blade
I didn't have a strait edge.
5. Now that your firing pin has more forward movement, we need to file back the hole, part C, in the FP. Do this while constantly checking the FP by inserting it back into the BB in its most forward postition, B
against G, and checking by inserting the pin, part E, to see if it will fit completely through the FP. Keep filing and checking until the pin, part E, slides in with no resistance.
6. Cut 4-5 links from the firing pin return spring, part F. I personally cut 5 off.
Reassemble.
Note:
Do not file down part A so much that the actual striking part of the FP is even with part A. Make sure that part A is still extended past the striking part of the FP.
I did this procedure only by eye using the new firing pin that GSG sent me as a replacement. You can see by the thickness of the strike that the FP is thinner. If you want to file yours thinner you can do so as
well.
Unfortunately there are almost no right angle surfaces to measure with a micrometer, so it almost has to be done by eye. I have tried to do numerous things to my firing pin that shipped with the gun, including
peening the back edge to extend the pin, but it started to get smushed by the hammer. Out of all the work that I did, this was the best solution so far.
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:11 AM [Last Edit: 7/26/2008 11:26:34 AM by jackal2001]
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Magazine Mod For Ban States by The_Lynch_Family
Joined: Sep 2004
PA, USA
Modified mags to 10 rounds to be state legal.
First off, take the mag apart and load in however many rounds are legal in your state with the mag follower to determine how far the follower travels. 10 rounds will be used here.
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Mark the location of where the roll pin needs to be located. Do on both sides of the mag body. Left and Right.
Drill through the marked location. Do this on both sides of the mag body. You must drill as close as possible to the edged of the mag .
Picture of the drilled hole. You can't really tell in the pic but the hole is more in the curve/round part of the mag instead of on the flat surface.
Picture of the roll pin tapped into one side of the mag body. Note how close the roll pin is to the edge of the side rail on the mag body. When you drill through the mag you basically want
your drill bit to drill slightly into the side lip of the mag body.
Picture of the roll pin on the one side already inserted and the hole drilled on the other side.
Picture of the roll pin and follower with rounds.
Put the mag together. Then take black epoxy and fill in the holes in the mag. Below is a pic of the first fill of epoxy. Use filler as needed to get it flush with the mag body. After it dries you
cannot tell it has been modified and it is permanent.
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Cocking Handle Buffer Mod by C=Man
Joined: Sep 2004
PA, USA
Delrin Button to keep the Cocking Handle from beating up the housing and breaking off. E-mail JCDLESales@comcast.net for more details.
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I'm finding the Older First Shipment SG5's have a 2 Piece Cocking Tube and a much more tapered nose when compared to the Newer Version. The Older Version has a much smaller opening
in the front where you would install a Buffer Button. Also the length of the Buffer has to be made about 4 times as long as you can see in the Pic below. The Older versions had the Ribbed
Cocking Tube Housing while the Newer Version has a Smooth Cocking Tube Housing. Keep this in mind when ordering a Buffer Button.
Below:
The long version of the buffer is for the old Gen1 made GSG-5.
The short version of the buffer is for the newer Gen2 made GSG-5.
GSG Mods - Firing Pin, Mags, Buffer Stop, Screw Replacement, Fake Can, Laser, Lo... Page 10 of 31
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Phillips Type Screw Replacement
Replaced with Hex Head Stainless Steel Screws and Nuts
The majority of the screws on the GSG are a "phillips type" screw. Even though they look like a standard phillips head, they are not. If you look closely you can see there is almost a star
pattern to it as well. The only tool that should be used is the Orange Handled Multi-Tool that ships with the gun. A better option would be to replace the screws with hex head stainless
steel screws. If you are having problems finding the screws locally you can order them from over in the EE. See links below in the last section.
Moderator
Joined: Sep 2004 Summary of what to get when shopping at the hardware store:
PA, USA
(12) - m3 hex nuts
(11) - m3 hex head, .50 thread pitch, 12mm long
Posts: 3178
(1) - m3 hex head, .50 thread pitch, 16mm long
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(2) - m2.5 hex nuts
(2) - m2.5 heax head, .45 thread pitch, 12mm long
Location:
(4) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the trigger assembly

(3) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the bolt assembly
(4) m3 12mm, with nuts for the main reciever
(1) m3 16mm, with nut - this is the barrel screw (you need this one 16mm to be long enough for the nut to attach
(2) m2.5 12mm, with m2.5 nuts for the bolt assemby (these are the slightly smaller screw on the bolt assembly, they have a star hex that is a pain to get out, definately worth it to replace
these as they strip easily.
Some Pictures of a few of the locations:
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Fake Suppressor Mod by TDKNC
DISCLAIMERS!!!
Remember to make sure the GSG-5 is unloaded and wear prop eye and respiratory protection.
Moderator This "how-to" is to be considered informational only! You accept ANY and ALL responsibility should you decide
Joined: Sep 2004 to use it to modify the GSG-5.
PA, USA
Posts: 3179 No human, extra terrestrial, or animal life forms were harmed in the process of writing this "how-to",
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modifications of the GSG-5 or post modification range testing.
Parts Used
King Arms QD Suppressor (UNCOMPANY / Redwolf Airsoft)
Classic Army MP5 front sight (Airsoft Extreme)
#8-32 x 3/16" Set Screw (x3 / 2 per a pack from Home Depot)
#6-32 x 3/16" Set Screw (x1 / 2 per a pack from Home Depot)
1/2 x 2 copper pipe (Home Depot)
Tools Used
Dremel Model 395
- Reinforced cutting wheel (428) or EZ Lock equivalent
- 60 grit sanding drum / band (408)
- Tungsten Carbide Cutter (9901)
- Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone (8193)
Cordless Drill
Precision screw drive set
#6 and #8
Kobalt Titanium coated drill and tap set
- Tap #6 Bit #32
- Tap #8 Bit #29
Fitting the new front sight involves the most work. Take your time and test fit frequently! It's far easier to remove metal than it is to put it back.
Starting with the CA front sight you will need to remove the "notch" from the top of the opening where the barrel comes through the sight and widen the 6mm barrel hole to the current
diameter of the front section using the tungsten carbide cutter. DO NOT INCREASE THE DIAMETER OF THE FRONT SECTION ....yet. The diameter on the back side of the sight is larger. DO
NOT WIDEN THE FRONT TO MATCH THE BACK. The whole will be to big.
Next, take the 1/2" 60 grit sanding drum and "work" it into the front of the barrel opening in the site until you can run the drum all the way through. The hole should be just slightly smaller
than the drum and the rounded edge around the hole will help guide the drum. Do not increase the diameter any wider than the sanding drum. If done properly, it will produce a near perfect
fit for the copper tubing.
Now flip the sight over and look at the back. There are 4 areas that will need to be modified. Have the GSG-5 handy as you will need to stop and test fit while modifying the sight.
Starting with the area that covers the cocking tube, use the 60 grit sanding drum to increase the diameter stopping frequently to test fit. One things to watch for when fitting is that the hole
the sling post goes through is aligning properly. You may need to work the bottom part of the area more than the rest so the holes match up. Once the sight starts to slide of the cocking
tube, switch to the aluminum oxide grinding stone to "flatten out" the wall as the sanding drum tends
to produce a "coning" effect. Again, take your time and test fit often.
While test fitting, you will probably notice that the narrow section of the sight post where the sling post screw runs though will needs to be widen slightly. Take the reinforced cutting disk and
widen the area using the face of the disk. Again, take your time and test fit often.
Ok, so now you got the sight so it fits but it won't go on quite far enough for the sling post to fit through the hole. The back side of the bottom area of the sight where the barrel goes
through should not need any modification. However, the back wall of the sight in the narrow section and the cocking tube sections will need additional metal removed to complete the fit. Use
the edge of the reinforced cutting wheel to remove metal in the narrow section and the face of the aluminum oxide grinding stone for the area that fits of the cocking tube section. Don't go
crazy here. You only need to remove a tiny bit in both section to complete the fit. Again, take your time and test fit often.
Using the #6 tap and #32 bit, drill and tap the hole in the bottom of the sight.
Phewwwwww! The hard part is done!
Unscrew the front end cap and QD part of King Arms suppressor and push out the foam inserts.
Replace the front end cap and set the main body aside.
Take the tungsten carbide bit and enlarge the hole in the QD part until it’s matches the inner diameter. Use the 60 grit sanding drum to smooth out the enlarged area and check to see the
copper tube will now fit through the QD part.
Drill and tap 3 to 4 holes with #29 bit and #8 tap equally spaced.
Got the newly fitted front sight attached and secured to the GSG-5? If not, do it now.
Cut off a 2” section of copper tube; slide it over the barrel and into the front sight. Slide the QD part on to the copper tube and push it flush with the front of the sight. Install the set 3 to 4
#8 set screws and tighten.
Now screw the main body of the suppressor back on the QD part. Rotate the suppressor till you have the markings facing the way you want. Install the #6 set screw in the bottom of the
sight and tighten just enough for it to mark the copper tube. Pull the suppressor off. Locate the where the set screw marked the copper tube and drill it with the #32 bit. Replace the
suppressor while lining up the hole and the set screw and tighten. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! The set screw should be flush with the bottom of the sight.
Apply some purple or blue Loctite to the set screws and enjoy!
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Laser Mod by franky4fun
This mod can only be done on Gen1 Guns with the ability for the end cap to be unscrewed.
You should not use the nut that came with the laser, if you do you will not have enough thread on the laser to get it in.
Here a quick guide how I did it:
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The manual that came with the laser:
Joined: Sep 2004

PA, USA
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Take the retaining screw out (botom of the fake can):
Take the fake can off:
Take the cap out of the cocking tube:
Take the body of from the laser (don't need it):
Dremel some material from the bottom of the laser to make the fake can fit again:
Turn the laser in without the nut (I did use a O-ring but a smaller one):
Put the fake can back on:
And ready it is:
The laser did srew on tightly, because of the O-ring it is secure from movement.
I did tight it pretty much using the hexkey that is used for windage and alivation (used it as a lever, but be carefull with that, don't break the hex screws).
The upper adjustment scew is now at exactly 12 o'clock.
Using the hexkey as a lever secures the laser so much that I can not turn it with my bare hands any more.
Tomorow I will go out to the range to test it's "holding zero" capacity.
I think it will hold zero just fine because of the 3 srew design, they hold each other in place.
EDIT: because of the flat base I dremeld on the botom of the laser it can't be turned any how because the fake can is in the way.
If you take care when dremeling and make it a precise fit (best would be to dremel the same radius as the fake can) it will be imposible to move the laser head.
The cable switch is attached to the forgrip using some inner tube of a bicycle, the cable is wraped around the front of the handguard, ones around the barrel and out of one of the holes in
the front handguard.
I did indeed nitch out a little section on the foregrip to put the cable trough.
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ICS Navy Lower by Regular122
I received an ICS Navy lower today. What follows is how to fit, modify and install it on the GSG5.
Here is a comparison of the Factory GSG5 Trigger Grip housing and the ICS. The ICS has lots of potential because the slots for the rear mounting are
there. With the front screw or pin hole and the slotted back end, it makes for a tight fit. In all these comparison pics, the German Sports factory trigger
Moderator housing is on the left and the ICS on the right.
Joined: Sep 2004
PA, USA
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The housing looks very nice. The plastic is a little less quality though. And there are some differences that must be modified. But once modified and
together with the trigger group, it weighs and feels just fine.
To modify the ICS to fit the GSG5, here are the main points that need to be cut or reworked:
What you will need to make these modifications is a Dremel Tool, an X-Acto Knife, a millimeter ruler to measure, and a pencil. Use the pencil to make
the marks for the cut. Use the factory housing as a guide.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to get the placement correct, otherwise, you will have drilled away and the trigger group may not fit becasue it is too far forward
or too far back.
This will take some time. DO NOT GET IN A HURRY. Unless you want a big hole in the side of your nicely marked trigger guard, you need to slowly work
the space on the plastic. It is only about 4mm thick. But it is very solid and can be shaped nicely. You will also need to widen the selector switch holes.
These are much smaller than on the factory grip and to fit the safety lever, you will need to widen them until it rotates with ease. Do not forget to carve
off the little 'stop' bump as this will interfere with the factory selector switch.
You are now ready to install the trigger group and selector switches.
For installing the trigger group, make sure the brass spacer washers are in place and the spring is engaged on the flat retainer that the spacers sit on.
Next, slide the group down until the serial block is flush with the top of the housing. Using a small screw driver, gently pry the side open so the serial
block can fall into the notch.
Then make sure the whole group is flush with the top and that the holes line up for the selector. Install the selector.
The next step is to install the retaining screw in the hollow of the pistol grip. The ICS has more holes in the bottom, so you will need to widen the main
hole into an oval, and then secure the screw base with a locking or flat washer. My ICS did not come with a butt cap. The factory butt cap does not fit.
Now you can mount the trigger group on the GSG5 like normal. Here it is installed on my 5P. Compare this new look with the inset pic of an actual
MP5A3 Navy.
This project took about 3 hours. The cost of the ICS housing was $29.99 from Evike.com. It shipped to me in about 5 days from order. All in all, I am
satisfied with it and am ready to test it at the range.
Hope this was helpful to those out there thinking about getting this setup. Steve
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ICS SEF Lower Mod by Joel2star
The part you need is BB gun part by ICS MP-46 (mail order from HK cost $35 + $11 shipping)
On the right hand side is the GSG factory lower that has been removed from the GSG-5P.
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Compare the factory lower (front) to the ICS lower (rear).

Inside the ICS lower, you will need to remove (dremel) the two ribs out.
These 2 rib are located near the Safety selector hole on each side.
You will also note the position of the serial no. cut out on the factory lower.
After removing the ribs inside the Navy housing,

the entire fire control mechanism can drop in (pretty tight though).
But the serial number plate will not fit in. So just mark its' position on the new lower.
I dremeled (gouging out) 2.5 mil. of plastic inside the new lower at the position marked.
Take you time here, and don't over do it.
(Sorry for a blurry picture )
About 30 min. with 5-6 fittings later.

The fire control mechanism group will just squeezed in.
Voila!!
Next problem, the factory Safety lever is too large to fit into the hole of the new lower housing!!
So I had to enlarge the hole radius a bit more using a dremel cone grinder (about 1.5 mm. larger than original)
Re-mount the Fire/Safety control lever.

Note: It will be stiff to rotate because the outside ridge on the new housing, so I sand the inside of S/F lever a bit to fit.
Re-assemble the lower, and that's all to it.
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:38 AM
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:46 AM
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:47:04 AM
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 10:03:03 AM
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 10:03:12 AM
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 10:03:35 AM
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All for future refrence.
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Beers78n9 Posted: 5/22/2008 2:34:26 AM
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To me, the GSG-5 felt front heavy, too front heavy. So I decided to do the Great Stuff
mod. But before doing so, I sprayed what I thought was the amount it would take to
fill the stock and let it set to see how much I would need to spray and for how long
(seems like about an 8 count).
While I liked the density and knew it would solve part of the problem, I felt it would
still be too front heavy. So I grabbed my change jar and started dropping in pennies
until I felt the bottom had more than enough weight. Then I started taking a few out
and adding them back to see what felt right. Turns out, IMO, that 50 pennies seemed
Team Member to be just the right amount. So, with the opening facing up I made sure all 50 had
Joined: Jun 2006 been shaken down to the bottom flat and evenly distributed over the entire base, and
WA, USA keeping the stock upright I sprayed in the stuff.
Posts: 223 I let it set for about 2 minutes and then shook it from side to side and some of the
Feedback: 0-0-0 pennies were still able to move so I shoved the straw dispenser as deep as I could,
stirred it around and then gave it another 3 second spray. Then continued to shake if
from side to side until the pennies were no longer moving.
It feels great now. I could have added more pennies and still not been completely
balanced, but I feel much better about it than before. I woudl recommend this to
anyone, its very easy to do, just make sure to be careful with the stuff. Saying that is
extremely sticky stuff is an understatement.
And of course you dont have to use pennies, you could use anything with some added
weight, it's just what I had available.
Why settle for only 72 Virgins?
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slimsdizz Posted: 6/8/2008 9:55:42 PM [Last Edit: 6/19/2008 5:21:49 AM by slimsdizz]
Member you were right 500 rounds and it starts light striking aquilla seems to be horrible CCI works fine still no subsonix ever. are you offering a kit to fix the problem at this time.
Joined: Jun 2008
NC, USA
the can has a 14mm thread that rotates counter clock correct? what cans do you recomened that will swap faux of course
Posts: 2
emc002 Posted: 7/11/2008 5:25:09 PM [Last Edit: 7/11/2008 5:25:31 PM by emc002]
Member Tried the M74B laser w/mod... EPIC FAIL (by me at least).
Joined: Feb 2008
CA, USA The heat generated by the Dremeling fried the laser. $35 down the drain.
Be careful and Dremel slowly, not allowing the laser to heat too much.
Posts: 33
JohnStoner Posted: 7/16/2008 11:41:10 AM [Last Edit: 7/16/2008 9:01:14 PM by JohnStoner]
Member Has anyone tested the cocking tube laser through 500+ rounds to make sure the laser holds zero?? I have 2 on the way and can do the test/report, just wondering if its already out there.
Joined: Feb 2007
NV, USA
Posts: 118
Grayedout Posted: 7/23/2008 6:11:44 PM [Last Edit: 7/24/2008 7:24:47 PM by jackal2001]
Member not had many but had the odd round not fire (light strike) was thinking about doing your mod , and wondered how is it holding up.. stick work ?
Joined: Apr 2008
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Andy
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Grayedout Posted: 7/24/2008 3:55:52 AM [Last Edit: 7/24/2008 7:25:11 PM by jackal2001]
Member Just wonder how your mod has been holding up as I am thinking about do your mod this weekend?
Joined: Apr 2008
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jackal2001 Posted: 7/24/2008 7:25:40 PM [Last Edit: 7/26/2008 6:08:31 PM by jackal2001]
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The firing pin mod is holding up fine and working great.
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BlackOpsSec Posted: 7/26/2008 12:23:42 AM
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Team Member thread failure. i just see a bunch of these ...

Joined: Feb 2006
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"Regular police procedure had failed, so I found it necessary to get out my stick and send him a message from my Lord." -- Deputy James Garcia
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ggreen Posted: 7/26/2008 8:42:53 AM
Member Me too.
Joined: Apr 2008
KY, USA
Posts: 48
JohnStoner Posted: 7/30/2008 12:22:27 AM
Member Ok, my lasers came in and I've installed one in my Gen 1 GSG-5. This weekend I have a buddy coming out and we'll run it through the ringer. Will have a report in on the laser holding zero
Joined: Feb 2007 after 500-1000 rounds come Sunday.
NV, USA
Posts: 122
blackjackdelta Posted: 8/2/2008 1:23:05 PM
Member New here so bear with me. I have seen numerous references to Gen 1 GSG-5's, is there a SN range or characteristics that I should know that will each generation?
Joined: Oct 2002
AFG Thanks in advance,
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jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:06 AM [Last Edit: 2/1/2010 3:49:44 PM by jackal2001]

It can be downloaded HERE.

Firing Pin Mod by jackal2001

2 Left Cases - Factory Firing Pin

Disclaimer: You break it - I didn't buy it.

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:11 AM [Last Edit: 7/26/2008 11:26:34 AM by jackal2001]

Picture of the roll pin and follower with rounds.

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:15 AM [Last Edit: 7/26/2008 11:33:10 AM by jackal2001]

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:19 AM [Last Edit: 8/12/2008 12:44:01 PM by jackal2001]

(4) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the trigger assembly

Some Pictures of a few of the locations:

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:24 AM [Last Edit: 7/26/2008 11:38:09 AM by jackal2001]

Phewwwwww! The hard part is done!

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:27 AM [Last Edit: 9/16/2008 12:57:12 PM by jackal2001]

Joined: Sep 2004

Take the retaining screw out (botom of the fake can):

Take the fake can off:

Take the cap out of the cocking tube:

Take the body of from the laser (don't need it):

Put the fake can back on:

And ready it is:

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:32 AM [Last Edit: 4/3/2009 8:29:38 PM by jackal2001]

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:35 AM [Last Edit: 4/3/2009 8:24:21 PM by jackal2001]

Compare the factory lower (front) to the ICS lower (rear).

After removing the ribs inside the Navy housing,

About 30 min. with 5-6 fittings later.

Re-mount the Fire/Safety control lever.

Re-assemble the lower, and that's all to it.

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:38 AM

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:46:46 AM

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:47:04 AM

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 9:47:07 AM [Last Edit: 5/18/2008 10:03:53 AM by jackal2001]

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 10:03:03 AM

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 10:03:12 AM

jackal2001 Posted: 5/18/2008 10:03:35 AM

Beers78n9 Posted: 5/22/2008 2:34:26 AM

Why settle for only 72 Virgins?

slimsdizz Posted: 6/8/2008 9:55:42 PM [Last Edit: 6/19/2008 5:21:49 AM by slimsdizz]

emc002 Posted: 7/11/2008 5:25:09 PM [Last Edit: 7/11/2008 5:25:31 PM by emc002]

JohnStoner Posted: 7/16/2008 11:41:10 AM [Last Edit: 7/16/2008 9:01:14 PM by JohnStoner]

Grayedout Posted: 7/23/2008 6:11:44 PM [Last Edit: 7/24/2008 7:24:47 PM by jackal2001]

Grayedout Posted: 7/24/2008 3:55:52 AM [Last Edit: 7/24/2008 7:25:11 PM by jackal2001]

jackal2001 Posted: 7/24/2008 7:25:40 PM [Last Edit: 7/26/2008 6:08:31 PM by jackal2001]

BlackOpsSec Posted: 7/26/2008 12:23:42 AM

Team Member thread failure. i just see a bunch of these ...

ggreen Posted: 7/26/2008 8:42:53 AM

JohnStoner Posted: 7/30/2008 12:22:27 AM

blackjackdelta Posted: 8/2/2008 1:23:05 PM

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