european
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EDITION
anni
2nder
versary
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bum ion
The essential monthly lifestyle magazine
sep ’08
edit
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2008
ryder
calendar Lingo Star Editor
Susana López
10 VIBES - coldplay lingostar@europeanvibe.com
Art Editor
11 VIBES - Dj Cosy O
naples cup
Philip McIvor
12 PARTY PHOTOS & design@europeanvibe.com
10
MEDIA & DESIGN
Subscriptions Ferdi Loskamp
coldplay
14 EURO WEEKENDER - Naples ferdi@europeanvibe.com
Advertising
16 WEEKENDER - Vitoria Aifric O’Reilly (91 549 7711)
18 culture - Travel Events sales@europeanvibe.com
Administrator
2008/2009 Tomek Przybyszewski
20 BOOKS - The Murder at tomek@europeanvibe.com
senior pr &
Road Hill House promotions
22 DISCOVER MADRID - Mitchell Vine
promotions@europeanvibe.com
Red Tape marketing
John Folorunso
24 MAP IT OUT MANAGING director
26 EAT OUT GUIDE Scott Edwards
scott@europeanvibe.com
28 BAR CHAT - Hard Rock Event Co-
30 FILM FIRSt Ordinator
Sam Lee
32 sport - Ryder Cup & sam@europeanvibe.com
Sports Diary logistics &
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 3
bits & pieces CROSSWORD 10
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
ACROSS
1 Partitioned part of a room (7)
5 Permitted (7) best Here’s the
first of Helen
Macrae’s
BLOG
9 10
of the
9 Porcelain (5) Madrid For Free
10 The spirit of the time (9) www.european
series of
vibeblog.com posts:
11 Incentive (10)
11 12
1 Retiro it up
12 Scheme (4) Madrid’s number one park is huge, easy to get to and,
13
14 Manage; control (6) best of all, completely free. Go on a Sunday and count
15 Type of local area network (8) how many kids you can spot trussed up in their Sunday
14 15
best after church (double points for any siblings in
17 Go into solution (8) matching outfits) or have a laugh at all the people
16
18 Merchant (6) sweltering in their rubbish Spiderman/Mickey Mouse
costumes. If you really want to blend in with the
17 18 20 On a single occasion (4) madrileños, wear beige or, if you’re feeling fancy, a bit of
21 Composed for a large group gold (weekend beige).
19
DOWN Take a walk down this street in our favourite barrio and
you will more than likely get a few lecherous comments
1 Spiny, succulent plants (5) reactions in the body (6) 8 Initiating explosive 16 Ordinary; shouted at you by willing suitors. If none of them take
2 Co-operative savings and 5 Disaffect; estrange (8) device (9) commonplace (8) your fancy, head into one of the many curry houses
loan organisation (8,7) 6 Racing sled where riders 13 Contemplation of the 19 Dark shape cast by instead and see if you can sweet-talk your way into
3 Honorary head of a lie on their backs (4) past (10) the sun (6) some free poppadums.
university (10) 7 Member of a Muslim order 14 Speed boat raised out of 22 City in West Yorkshire (5) 4 Explore the dark side
4 Protein catalysing of ecstatic dancers (8,7) the water by vanes (9) 23 Shout (4) If all the romance is just too much or you’ve recently
had an unpleasant break-up and are feeling particularly
bitter, head back to the Retiro and annoy some
SUDOKU easy puzzle 10 HARD puzzle 10 snogging couples by throwing twigs/stones/frozen peas
at them. Make sure you’re well-hidden before you start
5 3 9 9 and plan your escape route should things get nasty.
5 Be cultured
4 8 5 7 1 3 4 Find out when the various art galleries do their freebie
days and try to pass for an arty type (beret optional).
3 8 4 8 3 9 7 Since it’s free the place will probably be heaving with
both Madrileños and foreigners alike, but while you’re
5 6 3 2 3 1 5 queueing you can play everybody’s favourite game
’Guess the nationality’ to while away the time.
3 7 5 6 9 2 6 Try the swapsies market
Not technically free, but if you do want to buy
4 9 2 6 8 4 3 something from this market (unlikely) it won’t cost you
more than a couple of cents. The stallholders set out
6 1 9 8 9 4 1 their wares (i.e. tat they’ve found in a dustbin) just over
the road from Atocha station most days in the early
evening, and therein ensues a frenzy of bartering until
3 9 8 7 4 5 2 the police show up and everyone gets moved along.
9 2 1 8 Read more on the blog! www.europeanvibeblog.com
4 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
Madrid agenda compiled in
collaboration with esmadrid
what’s on?
CULTURAL THEATRE/Dance which became the longest-playing show Exhibitions
on Broadway and won 12 Tony awards. As a
6 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
Madrid agenda compiled in
collaboration with esmadrid
what’s on?
chApLIn In IMAgeS lines 33 & 65. Tel: 91 463 2900
Using 300 documents including photographs, e-mail: parque@grpr.com music FESTIVAL DON’T
posters and film fragments, the show narrates Planetario de Madrid
Avda. del Planetario, 16.
Tel: 91 467 34 61
MISS
Metro: Méndez Álvaro. Closed Mondays
Warner Bros Park
Metro Rock
Open daily from June to Mid-September and
on chosen weekends and holidays during the If you have become a Spanish pop/rock addict in your time in Madrid, or if you’d like to initiate
rest of the year. Call to confirm opening times. yourself in Spanish music, Madrid’s Complutense University plays host to the third Metro Rock festival.
Take the bus from Legazpi Plaza or the train
from Atocha Tel: 902 024 100 Moving to September to avoid competition with the giant Rock in Rio, this year’s Metro Rock doesn’t
the story of Charles Chaplin –the actor and www.warnerbrospark.com have the big international names like Franz Ferdinand or My Chemical Romance that it has had on
the public figure–, from the creation of the previous occasions, instead going for big names in Spanish music. Andrés Calamaro will headline,
character The Tramp to the end of his career. Sport and Melendi and Los Delinqüentes will also feature on the main stage. However, there are some big
Ending: 19/10/2008
Venue: Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza names in electronic music in the dance area: Felix Da Housecat is top of the bill there, and Alexander
Price: Free REAL MADRID Kowalski, Stereo MC’s, Dorian and The Whip all have
Metro: Atocha Estadio Santiago Bernabéu. Avenida de Concha sets, too. Absolute bargain if you’ve got a UCM card
Espina, 1. Tel: 91 398 43 00 or carnet joven.
THE RENAISSANCE www.realmadrid.es
PORTRAIT: FROM AtLetico Madrid Date: 20/09/2008
PISANELLO TO RUBENS Estadio Vicente Calderón. Paseo Virgen del Venue: Complejo Deportivo de Cantarranas, UCM
The show traces the development of portrait Puerto, 67. Metro: Pirámides. Price: 40 € (25€ with carnet UCM or Carnet Joven)
painting during the period in which this Tel: 91 366 47 07 www.clubatleticodemadrid.com
CB Estudiantes
If this is not your bag, check out the FESTIVAL
Basketball SURFORAMA at Taboó in the heart of Malasaña.
Madrid Arena, Serrano 127, 28006 Madrid It’s on both Friday 19th and Saturday 20th and its
Tel: 902 400 002 the first surfer rock festival ever to come to Madrid.
www.clubestudiantes.com
Real Madrid CB
Among others, you’ll be able to catch the brilliantly
Pabellon Raimundo Saporta, Paseo de La named Laika & The Cosmonauts. Like, totally.
Castellana, Madrid. Tel: 91 398 43 32, or check
out www.realmadridbasket.galeon.com
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 7
vibes
The Dandy
[the lead singer] because I don’t re-
ally know how that happened. The
Mission Control video is so sick, we
teleport down onto the moon and
we’re in our space suits playing our
Warhols
instruments, Courtney looks like
this German drag queen…
Zia McCabe
like playing there, we love London.
P
laying together since 1994, in Argüelles, she gave Was it a good ex- starts to wander.
Portland-based quartet me the low-down on perience record-
The Dandy Warhols life as a Dandy. ing there? Have you ever played any
recently released their Oh it’s awesome, really weird gigs?
sixth studio album, titled …Earth Helen: Can you sum because most Oh yeah, the worst one was in
To The Dandy Warhols… You’re up the new album studios are so bad Chile. It was like a hockey arena
probably more familiar with for me in a couple of they’ve got maybe with some local bands, us and
their music than you think you sentences? a mini-fridge with Chris Cornell, so we are opening
are: songs such as Boys Better, Zia: It’s really eclectic. It’s a coffee pot sitting for hardcore Chris Cornell fans.
We Used To Be Friends and the the first record we’ve on top, and some We’re playing and it sounds awe-
insanely catchy Bohemian Like made where we’ve taken crusty old couch some, we’re having a really good
You have become ingrained in all the songs that didn’t that everyone’s time, and I’m like, “Wow we’ve
pop culture after being featured end up on records, that were kind supposed to share. So this is just, it’s never been booed before, this is
on anything and everything, of forgotten. It’s been 14 years now, so decked-out. We took our video so weird!” It didn’t hurt my feelings
from film and TV soundtracks so the riff for this one or that one budget and instead of just building thank God, if we were playing
to computer games and mobile actually might have been written a cheap set you can tear down, we bad I probably would have felt
phone adverts. When I met several years ago. It’s kinda cool that put in this industrial stainless steel awful, but it sounded good so we
up with the band’s bass player, we’ve been around long enough to kitchen and shot the video in there. just kept playing. I think maybe
Zia, she was extremely chatty have all these old ones. And it’s the one out of every 100 was
and down-to-earth, and as she second record we’ve made at The Why did you decide on an a fan, we were seriously
picked her way through a plate Odditorium [the band’s Portland outer space theme for the outnumbered, it was brutal.
of pineapple chunks in the studio], we’ve never made two new album? That was the weirdest show
surroundings of Supersonic club records at the same studio before. You need to ask Courtney by far.
8 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
Madrid agenda compiled in
collaboration with esmadrid
what’s on?
september
Formula One
FOOTBALL
RUGBY UNION
14 15 16 17 18 19 20
Ryder Cup
The Wombats
Real Madrid v Numancia Beatles la Leyenda Killing Joke Lykke Li
Italian Grand Prix Teatro Häagen-Dazs Calderón Champions League Ben Vaughn Mala Suerte La Fuga
Glitter Klinik
21 22 23 24 25 26 Glenn Hughes 27
The Hellacopters Barricada + Rosendo
Living Colour Najwajean + Aurora Beltrán
Chelsea v Man Utd Beatles la Leyenda Getafe v Atletico Madrid, Manolo García Plaza de Toros Las Ventas
GAA - All-Ireland Football Final Teatro Häagen-Dazs Calderón Real Madrid v Sporting Gijon Raimundo Amador Axxis + Arwen Everton v Liverpool
28 29 30 1OCT 2 3 4
RPWL + Thay Khay
Sala Ritmo y Compás R.E.M. Tequila
Atletico Madrid v Sevilla Pimpinela Plaza de Toros Las Ventas Backyard Babies Pink Tones - A Pink
Singapore Grand Prix Teatro Häagen-Dazs Calderón Los Piojos Mago de Oz Floyd Live Show
5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Los Secretos. 30 Años
Y and T Estopa - Gira Allenrok de Canciones Combate Rock
Barcelona v Atletico Madrid, Antonio Vega + Jose Plaza de Toros Las Ventas (Reincidentes /
Real Madrid v Espanyol Mark Sultan Aka BBQ Mª Granados / Mama Porcupine Tree Porretas y Sonora)
Sala Heineken C Princesa, 1, (www.ticktackticket.com, 90 215 0025) Palacio de Deportes de la Comunidad de Madrid Avenida de Felipe II, s/n (www.servicaixa.com 902 33 22 11)
Joy Eslava C Arenal, 11 (913 665 439) La Riviera Pº Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto, (www.servicaixa.com 902 33 22 11)
Sala El Sol C Jardines 3. Metro: Sol (www.elsolmad.com 91 532 6490) Moby Dick Avda. de Brasil, 5 Metro: Cuzco / Santiago Bernabeu (www.ticktackticket.com, 902 15 00 25)
Sala Live Ntra Sra. de Fátima 42. Metro Eugenia de Montijo. (91 525 54 44) Sala Caracol C Bernardino Obregón 18 ( , 902 15 00 25)
Gruta’77 C Cuclillo, 6 (esquina nicolás morales), 28019 Metro: Oporto (91 471 23 70) Telefónica Arena Madrid Metro: Line 10 (Lago) Line 6 (Alto de Extremadura) www.telefonicaarenamadrid.com
7th
September The 14th September
Sala Heineken
1st October
Plaza de Toros
Wombats
Palacio de Deportes Las Ventas
Comunidad de Madrid
COMING
SOON
Coldplay R.E.M.
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 9
vibes
Coldplay:
the Indie Interlopers
Nadie es profeta en su tierra (a prophet hath no honour in his own
country) is what the Spanish might say. Playing here in Madrid this
month, Coldplay have become one of the biggest bands in the world,
but have struggled for years to shake off criticism from the music
industry itself. Peter Moore explains how they don’t think you’re cool
if you’ve been to school.
B
WORDS by Peter Moore
uzzing with tingles of anticipation, tens of thou- was poised for more. Half an hour later, Coldplay
sands of festivals-goers groaned over their morning emerged from the gloom in a chorus of flashes,
toast on 19th June 2002 as they discovered the list of strobe lighting and the jarring riff of Politik. Some-
headlining acts for that year’s Glastonbury Festival. where in the next ninety minutes they became one
There was washed up ‘mocker’ Rod Stewart, Kelly of Britain’s best bands.
Jones from the Stereophonics, who sounded as
if someone had just taken a cheese grater to his Even if the crowd didn’t know it, Coldplay had hit
throat, and worst of all Coldplay: a miserable a rich vein of creativity during the last year. Their
collection of middle class students with a singer that second full-length album, A Rush of Blood to the
moaned whilst hunched over his piano. Head was on the brink of a successful interna-
tional release, the first single In My Place was
Just the previous year David Bowie had graced the already gathering significant airplay and follow up
Pyramid Stage and immediately prior to him there singles Clocks and the wistful ballad The Scientist
had been REM, Radiohead and the Manic Street were being jealously guarded in a London vault by
Preachers. This year the organisers of Glastonbury, expectant Parlophone executives.
that mystic diamond amongst British festivals,
were serving up Coldplay for the all important Just a year before they had been forced to fall
Friday night slot – a band that Oasis’ former back upon repeated performances of Yellow and
manager Alan McGee had casually dismissed as a Trouble during encores, often finding themselves
group of “Indie bedwetters”. Most people took to stranded with too-little material. But that Glaston-
comforting themselves with the prospect of the bury evening something fell silently and perfectly
appearance of Rolf Harris and his wobble-board. into place. In an odd departure from gig-going
tradition, fresh material was greeted with warmth
In the event, that warm Friday night transpired as the band debuted a fistful of ‘new ones’.
to be one of the most important in Coldplay’s
history. At half past ten, Faithless had waved Lead singer Chris Martin interacted with the
their goodbyes, having delivered, as expected, a crowd, commiserating with those “Stuck outside
swirling ambient hour long sing-along, and an the fence without a ticket” in a couplet of
80,000 strong crowd in front of the Pyramid Stage ad-libbed lyrics. In return, lighters were jabbed
vibes
and waved triumphantly in the air. Then, as his
falsetto voice echoed in the Somerset night dur-
A Rush of Blood to the Head was voted in Rolling
Stone Magazine’s ‘Top 500 Albums of All Time’, DJ Cosy O’s
Urban Review
ing Trouble, he paused for a moment to allow Q Magazine awarded X&Y a rare five stars and
the crowd to finish the chorus, then and with a catalogue of their singles have performed
impeccable manners, he admitted, “Thank you. exceptionally around the world. Where U2
That was marvellous”. has provided the anthems for the eighties and
nineties, Coldplay have usurped them, setting 10 tunes that you should
Fast forward six years and Coldplay’s place down the soundtrack for the noughties. have been getting down to
amongst the artistic establishment is assured.
this summer 2008
1 6
Their performance at Glastonbury not only won One of their finest songs, Talk, provides a
plaudits from critics, it was also portentous. snapshot of everything that is good about the
It was followed by a world tour which lasted band. There is a catchy riff, there are Martin’s
for fifteen successful months, they scooped imperious vocals, the band’s mastery of the
the Grammy ‘Record of the Year’ for Clocks loud/quiet ethic and a jam to round it off of
and their album, A Rush of Blood to the Head, which the Red Hot Chili Peppers would be
went on to sell more than 12 million records proud. Gallagher, a man known for his sharp Ne-Yo Missy Elliot
worldwide. X&Y, released three years later, tongue and quick opinions, is unequivocal in his Closer Best Best
2 7
delivered an even greater degree of success, and praise of Coldplay, “A top band”, he said. “They
was crammed with more gems than Victoria blew me away.”
Beckham’s jewellery box. One of which, Speed
of Sound, became the first single from a British Meanwhile, Martin himself has emerged a
band to trouble the US top 10 since The Beatles thoroughly likeable character, a paragon of
in 1968. English manners and humble to boot. He
maintains that the band has “Perfect faces for Lil Wayne N.E.R.D
Musically, however, Coldplay remained margin- radio”, and he often introduces band-mates to A Milli Everyone Nose
3 8
alised. Intermittent jibes in the media accused the crowd with gushing pride. “This is Will our
them of lacking the essential ingredients of drummer, and probably the best drummer in
a British indie band. They lacked the edge of the world”, he announced at a recent concert.
Oasis, the craft of the Arctic Monkeys, the “Although, of course, we’re biased and there
hedonism of The Libertines and the sheer are plenty of rock drummers who’d say they're
misery of Joy Division. They seemed unable better, but I’d just disagree”. Similar praise Robin Thicke Nelly
to reinvent themselves as Radiohead did with is often dispensed mid-concert by Martin Magic Bay Bay Bay
4 9
Kid A and none of their members were musical to guitarist Buckland and bass player Guy
prodigies like Matt Bellamy of Muse. In addi- Berryman.
tion, they carried the added handicap of being
southerners and distinctly middle class. Almost six years to the week since their
Glastonbury performance, Coldplay were
Traditionally, Britain likes its indie heroes poor invited to perform a short concert outside
and northern, raised in chimneys and writing the British Broadcasting Corporation. The Dizzee Rascal Snoop Dogg
songs about scruffy pubs and ugly birds. This eponymous single from new album Viva la Dance with me Those Gurls
5 10
was never the case with Coldplay: Martin was Vida and Death to All His Friends had recently
expensively educated, drummer Will Champion become the first British song to hit the top of
is the son of a university professor and, in ech- the US charts since 1998 and the Spice Girl’s
oes of Brian May, guitarist Jonny Buckland was Wannabe. The band were relaxed and in playful
a student of mathematics and astronomy. Sneers mood, appealing to local builders, swapping
surrounded the fact that instead of stoically instruments and Martin joked with the crowd
eking out an existence on the musicians’ dole, as film crews hovered overhead, substituting the Busta Rhymes Rihanna
Coldplay had waited until finishing their studies lyrics for Trouble with, “Oh no, what’s this? A Don’t Touch Me Disturbia
(Martin graduated with a first class degree in helicopter is filming my friends and me”.
Ancient World Studies) before signing their five
record agreement with Parlophone. “We’re slightly terrified about this record,
> new cd releases
because we've thrown away all our tricks”, Year of the Gentleman
Some of these deficiencies were deemed Martin had confessed earlier in the year to Ne-Yo
inexcusable by portions of the music press who Entertainment Weekly Magazine. The lyrics One of RnB’s true stars follows up his
were obsessed with edge and innovation. Jim were more vivid, many of the jagged riffs had Grammy award winning Because of you
Pareles, the New York Times music critic was gone, only to be replaced by jangling church album with a more mature effort. It’s great to
the author of a typical mauling, dubbing them, bells. They need not have worried for a moment. see the legendary Teddy Riley alongside the
“The most insufferable band of the decade”. For With Coldplay’s trademark efficiency copies of omnipresent Timbaland and Kanye West on
some, McGee’s ‘bedwetting’ jibe had stuck. the first two singles were downloaded in their producer duties. There’s no disappointment
millions, breaking even their own impressive and we get more of the quality lyrics and
Coldplay had fallen victim to a strange bout records. Coldplay’s ‘golden touch’ had returned vocals we have come to expect.
of reverse snobbery. For many they were too once again. Guy Hands, boss of label EMI crowed
well educated and they always had a safety net, excitedly that Viva la Vida is, “Right across the Blessed
something to fall back upon. If they had not world… the most anticipated album of the year”. Busta Rhymes
been multi-millionaire musicians, they would “Bussa Bus” drops his new album on the
have become doctors, scientists and engineers. Today, on stage, Coldplay dress in hand-crafted back of serious success with the awesome
It was a familiar curse and one that had con- French revolutionary dress, inspired by a single Don’t touch me now. One of the few
stantly bothered the career of one of Britain’s painting by the 20th century Mexican artist examples of serious longevity in the hip
finest writers, George Orwell. Having attended Frida Kahlo. Gone are the shabby trappings of hop genre, Busta has had hits with just
the prestigious Eton College and served in the the students they once were. They are one of about everyone from Flipmode, Mary J,
Imperial Police Force, many felt him unqualified the biggest bands in the world, rich and famous Leaders of the New Skool and Mariah.
to lecture on poverty and inequality. Coldplay, beyond their wildest dreams. Everything is Sit back and let Busta hype it up!!
like Orwell before them would find it impossible carefully crafted, from their music to their
to escape from their past. image and their marketing, in carefully
controlled perfection. Even the description
Check out where
During the years, however, Coldplay have proven of their music, ‘very heavy soft rock’, seems cosy o will be
the majority of the doubters wrong. Much of
the criticism has subsided and a memorable
unnecessarily exact. They have conquered the
musical world, but some amongst the indie
spinning this
collaboration with Noel Gallagher of Oasis at a establishment there are still some happy to month at
Make Trade Fair concert signalled that they had
achieved a level of acceptance amongst their
denounce them as interlopers, lacking that
magical, intangible quality. It is proof that, very
www.djcosyo.com
peers. This twist of fortune has stemmed from often, the people who are hardest to please are
the consistent quality of their musical output. those closest to home.
sep 08 11
party photos
Naples
unsophisticated yet authentic
It doesn’t have the beauty of Florence, the sophistication of Milan, nor the
living-museum of Rome, but Naples is real Italy. As Abha Malpani writes,
if they invented pizza, the Neapolitans must certainly know something.
I
WORDS by Abha Malpani
f a city is known to have a love- to be poor man’s food city that is surrounded
hate relationship with its visitors, but was made famous by the Palazzo Reale
it’s Naples. Italy’s third largest by King Ferdinand IV (Royal Palace), and the
city, Napoli (as the locals call it), sometime in the 18th huge domed church
is located in the south on Italy’s century. Interestingly Piazza del Plebiscito San Francesco di Paola.
western coast and is 2,500 years enough, there’s a strict One of the city’s most
old. Napoli, which means ‘new law on how a Margherita pizza ancient and popular squares is
city’, is geographically situated should be made in Naples that Piazza del Mercato. This square
between steaming volcano Campi specifies the exact type of flour has always been the centre of
Flegrei on the west and dormant and measurements of ingredients social and business events, and in
yet dangerous Vesuvius on the east, to be used in order to make the the past it was where the public
which fortunately hasn’t erupted perfect Margherita. Moving away executions were held.
since 1944. from pizza, spaghetti is the most
common type of pasta eaten in The most happening areas in
Other than being the home to Naples and most of the food in Naples are: shopping street Via
pizza, inventing the mandolin, and general has Greek, French and Toledo; Spaccanapoli (literally
having noteworthy architectural Spanish influence from historical “split Naples”), a street that
history, the city is also known times, making it a unique and crosses most of the city’s historic
to be ill-built, a core mafia hub, diverse type of food. Oh, and don’t centre and a main place to wander
and an open museum of 3,500 forget to try the espresso. around looking at sights and
tonnes of trash. So Naples doesn’t shops; Piazza Dante, the most
have the elegance and charm of The city centre is where all the popular and centrally located
Florence or Venice, but it does action is, and some of the best plaza in Naples; and Via dei
have the vibrancy of a diverse pizza can be bought on the Trivunali, another busy street in
Mediterranean metropolis, well streets. In the centre is Piazza del old Naples that has 1000 year old
lived-in by the rich and poor alike. Plebiscito, the largest plaza in the arcades.
For this reason, it’s comparatively
lower on the tourist preference
list, but I’d say that’s a great thing,
and reason enough to visit. And
there’s a strict law on how a
oh my goodness, we mention a Margherita pizza should be made in
good number of things here but
there are so many places to see and Naples that specifies the exact type of
things to do, a couple of days may
not be enough!
flour and measurements of ingredients
Naples to be used in order to make the perfect
If you love Italian food, Naples is
where you will get to eat the most Margherita
authentic Margherita pizza. It used
14 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
euro weekender travel
Like most Italian cities, Napoli built in the 13th century. Take the
reflects a deep cultural and religious city’s funicular railway system called
ev insider
way of life. It has 448 historical Funiculare up a hill and you will come
churches, making it one of the most to Castel Sant'Elmo. It is shaped like a
Catholic cities in the world. The 13th
Century gothic cathedral “Duomo”
is the city’s most important place
six sided star and also offers stunning
views from the top. Tommaso
of worship. Dedicated to Naples Nightlife doesn’t get much better than What is so special about Naples?
patron saint Saint Januarius, every in the Mediterranean. The city centre, Who has never eaten pizza? Naples is its birthplace; the first
year on September 19 the cathedral both new and historic, has a bustling Margherita pizza was made here in 1800 in honour
celebrates the “miracle of Saint string of bars and nightclubs. of the queen of the same name. Naples’ history
Januarius” when the Saint’s dry blood
and traditions are what make it stand out. There
liquefies as it is brought towards Just outside Naples, other than the
the relics of his body. San Lorenzo 1200 metre high volcano Vesuvius, is quite a strong Spanish influence here, too, as
Maggiore is another one of Naples are Pompeii and Herculaneum, the Bourbons ruled here for quite some time.
greatest churches built in 1265 that both worth a visit. These cities were
has extensive Greek and Roman destroyed by the eruption of Mount What do you recommend visiting?
remains underneath. Vesuvius in year 79 AD. In Pompeii’s Never heard of Vesuvius? This is the most
‘Garden of Fugitives’, you can still important volcano in the world at the moment for its
You can’t leave Naples without see plaster casts of the people shape and peculiarities. It is the volcano that destroyed the city
visiting some of its castles. Built in who died in the eruption, some of Pompeii in the first century AD and you can visit it. Also, you
the 12th century, Castel dell’Ovo is of which are also in the National have to visit the old town, which is full of churches, each built in a
the city’s oldest castle. It is located Archaeological Museum of different style from the other.
on a small island from where you Naples. In Herculaneum, you
can see spectacular views of Naples can still see skeletons of the Is there anything to eat apart from pizza?
waterfront and at night it lights up people who died. The ruins Neapolitan food is great for its variety, and well,
and is a great spot to eat or have a from these cities are also Italian food in general is loved all over the world.
drink. Its name translates to the “egg maintained and tell tales of the You can get the best espresso coffee
castle” and legend has it that the cities that used to be before
poet Virgil hid an egg in a cage in the they were wiped away. in Naples, we invented that, too.
castle; if the egg broke, both the castle All-in-all, Naples is worth a
and the city would be destroyed. trip should you want to see a part of Anything else to look out for?
Italy less glorified, less sophisticated, There is our traditional dance, Tarantella. If you’ve
Another such edifice is Castel Nuovo yet culturally profound. The best got a lot of money to spend, you can mix with the
which is one of the most significant time to visit this city is between rich and famous on the close-by island of Capri, or
Tarantella
architectural fortresses that was September and December. go down the coast to Amalfi.
europeanvibe
sep 07 magazine 15
travel weekender
the abundant fishing area to them-
selves. Pintxo (much more elaborate
tapas that are paid for) bars and tav-
erns are everywhere and it’s normal
during the day to drink the laughably
small mouthful of beer that is the
zurito (though it allows you to enjoy
a good number of pintxos in differ-
ent bars without getting drunk). At
night, you may be horrified at the
local habit of sharing drinks! The
katxi is a more reasonable measure
of three quarters of a litre, but one
Vitoria
between three or four people is a
common sight. One will set you back
maybe €3.50-€4.00. The bars also
have a relaxed attitude to stoners
with a distinctly herbal aroma waft-
ing through the streets. The txikiteo
is the name the locals give to the
social tradition of wandering from
one bar to another and you could
find yourself in eight or nine bars in
a night. The beauty of the city is that
it’s nice and compact so everything’s
within walking distance.
I
international jazz festival in July and
the Azkena Rock Festival this year
WORDS by Martin Quinn
is between 4th and 6th September.
This year, Marky Ramone will
once confusingly described this restoration of a fantastic piece of be performing and so will what
place as the “Aberdeen of the Basque architecture. There are also various remains of The Doors, known as
Country” due to it being less famous museums that you can visit so cul- Riders on the Storm nowadays.
than the other two main cities, “You ture vultures are well catered for. Other acts advertised include Los
know, including the capital”. It’s like Lobos and The Quireboys.
this. There are 49% of people think It’s a vibrant little spot, for the most
Bilbao is the capital and the other part undiscovered by tourists and Vitoria is the home of
49% go for San Sebastián. Said in the the general level of English spoke Spanish basketball’s current
company of a Vitorian flatmate, his having a level that keeps you out of league champions, TAU
annoyed frown now entered me into trouble but pushes you to practice Cerámica, (officially called
the 2% who know that Vitoria is the your Spanish. Contrary to popular Baskonia). They’ve won the
actual capital. belief, Basques aren’t a bunch of Spanish League a few times and are
language snobs and they’ll gladly major contenders in Europe (Spain’s
Vitoria-Gasteiz, to give it the full help you learn Castellano. Saying only representative in this year’s Eu-
Castellano-Euskera name is in fact that, a large number were educated roleague Final Four). Fewer, but still
the second biggest city, population- in the local language and it’s a great many, of the locals are football fans
wise in the Basque Autonomous source of pride for them. In general, and the majority follow the city’s
Region to Bilbao. There are about the people are from the countryside second division side, Alavés. The
230,000 people that call the place of Álava province or are second or local team has been up and down
home. I’d never been to either third generation immigrants from from first to second division since
Aberdeen or Vitoria when I made Extremadura, Galicia, Castile or La they reached the UEFA Cup Final in
the badly educated statement Rioja. 2001, when they lost to Liverpool.
but I fancy myself as an armchair
traveller. I’m also prone to random One thing that they are snobby All in all, it’s a charming wee spot
outbursts. about, though is their food. and three and a half hours will drive
Basques are food fanat- you there from Madrid. The bus
The city was founded in ics and cooking is almost predictably takes longer (about four
1181 by the king of Navarra, considered macho. The men and a half), but it is faster than the
Sancho VI though a local love cooking. Apparently, a train. Ryanair cancelled its flights
Vitoria friend told me that excava-
tions have found remains
few years ago McDonald’s
opened a restaurant in the
to the airport from Dublin and
Stansted last year but Iberia still has
of ramparts maybe 100 years older city's main street. The outlet didn’t flights from Madrid and Barcelona.
than this. It was built on an earlier last long due to disinterest and it The only other flying option is
hamlet which gave it the Basque closed down. The cuisine contains a Nordjet, if you want to fly pijo of
name Gasteiz. The walls are im- lot of seafood, given the Basque sea- course. (Yes, Vitoria has them too.)
pressive and the city’s architectural faring tradition. An old tale claims Rumours of an AVE being complet-
layout has a layered feeling. The that Basque fishermen arrived in ed in the next eon also abound. So,
Gothic Cathedral of Santa María the Americas between five to ten if the north’s your thing, have a look
is undergoing extensive renova- years before Columbus but much here and rest assured, Aberdeen it
tions at the moment. You can get a further north. The story goes that isn’t, there’ll be no oil rigs or deep
tour, hard-hat included and see the they didn’t tell anyone so as to have fried Mars Bars.
16 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
culture
Travel Events
2008/2009 We have put together our list of
the best festivals and short trips
in Spain and Europe over the next
year. Will Cade takes us through
the events which would make
your year unforgettable.
F
or those of us just coming to Madrid,
the first few weeks are at the same
time an awe-inspiring and painstaking
process. We try to learn the ins and
outs of the city while devouring every experience
this major metropolis has to offer – and between
tapas, museums, and nights out, it has more than
enough to keep us busy. As miraculous as it is,
though, Madrid cannot offer everything; here are
the coolest reasons to go out of Madrid through-
out the coming year.
WORDS by Will Cade
Fiestas de la Vendimia
Riojana/San Mateo Oktoberfest
(La Rioja Wine Festival) Munich, Germany /
Logroño, La Rioja / September 20th – October 5th
September 20th – 27th
Of all the wonderful drinks Spain is
known for, great beer isn’t one of
One experience Madrid can’t offer is a taste them. Spaniards won’t argue with
of small town Spain. For this you’ll have to you about this, but be mighty careful
head a little bit north and drink a quite a saying anything of the like in the
lot of wine. Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, Bavarian capital, Munich – Bavarian
may have a population of almost 140,000, beer is such a point of pride that the
but during this week in September it both city’s two-week beer festival gets
swells in number of people and goes back kicked off by the mayor tapping the
to its cultural roots as the heart of Spain’s first keg, possibly his most important
civic duty.
wine country.
After the festivities begin, walk
The festival coincides with the grape from beer tent to beer garden, or
harvest, and as the tradition goes, you take take a look inside one of Munich’s
part in the foot-crushing of the grapes and historic beer houses, where you’ll
then offer the first glass to the Virgen de see travellers from all over the world
Valvanera. If you’re not a wine connoisseur, sitting beside Bavarians dressed in
seeing the families cooking paella in pans traditional attire. By midnight, the
(also called paellas) big enough for a streets may be covered in spilt beer
and crushed, plastic cups, but by
bull will be well worth your while, not to 3:00 a.m. they’re spotless and ready
mention the bullfights and parades. for the day to come.
18 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
culture
Festival of Lights Fiesta de Las Cruces de
Lyon, France / December 8th – 12th Mayo (May Crosses)
Córdoba, Spain / April 30th – May 4th
Paris at night is unlike any other city in the
world, its palpable sense of intrigue and As spring is blooming, Córdoba is draping itself
amazement filling the air. But for four days a in flowered crosses. Churches and households
year, Lyon illuminates the night in ways Paris alike will display their floral artistry, bringing
can only dream of. The entire city is adorned forth the coming season with a sense of
with every form of light imaginable, ranging spirituality and creativity. This is by far the best
from the more traditional torches and lanterns time to visit the Andalusian gem, before the
to laser lights and projected images. summer heat comes in full blast.
Lyon, the second largest city in France, also The Moorish architecture in the city
stakes a claim as the country’s culinary capital. complements the Catholic festival, especially
Expect to find affordable French cuisine in the Mezquita, the largest and most ornate
the streets and restaurants while wandering mosque in all of Spain. Walking through
through the nightly offerings, which include its halls, you can catch glimpses into the
lantern processions, free concerts, and young country’s Moorish past and see why Spain’s
people enjoying the nightlight. varied culture is truly one of a kind.
Carnaval La Tomatina
Cadiz, Spain / February 19th – March 1st Buñol, Spain, August 26th
Hosting the Mardi Gras of Spain, Cadiz will transform What a better way to top off your
from a southern coastal city into a week long spectacle summer than a massive food fight?
of costumes and street performers. Creativity in The population of this small city about
costume is valued over glamour, so rest assured it can 40 kilometers from Valencia goes from
be done on a student budget. Rather than elaborate around 9,000 to over 30,000 as Spaniards
masks, partygoers usually paint their faces with and travellers alike come together for a
make-up, adding to the loose, rambunctious feel of massive tomato bashing.
the festival.
There have been no casualties to date,
The street performers vary from satirical acting groups but the organizers have instituted a few
and rogue performers to farcical choirs and traditional rules to promote the spirit of good fun.
musicians. Whether you want political criticism or a No bottles or projectiles are to be thrown
few good laughs, you’ll find it in the streets of Cadiz. into the crowd, t-shirts are not to be
torn, and all tomatoes must be smashed
before hurled into the mob. That being
said, everything else is game!
Semana Santa
Seville, Spain / April 3rd – 12th
By April, you’ve probably seen every type of street party known to man, but
you haven’t seen the ornate float processions that hit the streets for Seville’s EV Traveller will be
Holy Week (Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday). Over 115 floats bearing statues of taking groups to many
Virgins and Jesuses will meander through the historic city streets, accompanied of these european
by marching bands and crowds of fervant Catholics and bewitched non-Catholic festivals.
onlookers. The traditional cone-hooded robes with eye slits worn by the If you want to join the
parading brotherhoods were copied by the Ku Klux Klan, which makes the first
time you see these processions all the more eerie. fun too, go to
www.european.com
The rest of year Seville is known for enjoyment, whether it’s watching dancers and click
in the capital of flamenco or basking in Southern Spain’s slower pace of life. You on ‘traveller’.
might notice the Andalusians don’t always pronounce the ‘s’ in words. But if you
were this comfortable and relaxed, would you bother with the extra consonant?
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 19
books
WORDS by PETER MOORE
1 The Shadow of
the Wind
only by Carlos Ruíz Zafon
4.90€ One of the most popular
at bookworld
see advert
Spanish novels of the
opposite decade and a worldwide
best seller. The plot is set
in a bleak post-war Catalan landscape and
deals with a mystery surrounding a boy called
A
s summer creeps towards autumn and Madrid remarks a puzzled Mr Kent, the father of the murdered the finest of Conan Doyle’s
settles into the well worn groove of another child at one point. “Where did you lose it?” answered short stories about the coke-
academic year, it can be the perfect time to a Mrs Hall, almost as if he was speculating as to the smoking detective. A lady dies suddenly but
remember those forgotten projects, to wind
inexplicably in an odd country house, uttering
whereabouts of his handkerchief. her finals words about a ‘speckled band.’ Only
down the social life a notch and settle down Holmes can know what to make of this.
with a good book. Filling the void left by the absence Indeed, this cool, precise language adds a sinister
of Harry Potter, the publishing industry has served up undertone to the book, as does Summerscale’s 3 Rebecca
a number of plots fit to fire the imagination. Amongst economic descriptions of the characters within. This by Daphne du Maurier
the best of these is the unravelling of a factual murder is best shown by her description of Whicher himself, The book with the infamous
mystery presented in Kate Summerscale’s book, The he was: opening line: “Last night I
Suspicions of Mr Whicher: Or The Murder At Road Hill “A man of mystery... the prototype of the enigmatic, dreamt I went to Manderley
House. reserved investigator. He appeared from nowhere, again”, is a perfect example
and even his unmasking was masked with an alias. of a novel with a twist. In
In July, Summerscale scooped the Samuel Johnson ‘Witchem’, the name given him... had suggestions of that wonderful literary cliché, “Things are not
Prize for the book defined in the Guardian as a rich detection – ‘which of ‘em?’ – and of magic – ‘bewitch quite what they seem”.
mix of, “Melodrama, murder, suspense and courtroom ‘em’. He could turn a man to stone or strike him dumb.
drama”. Set in mid-Victorian England, there are echoes
of Sherlock Holmes as Detective Inspector Jonathan
Whicher was five feet eight inches tall, his hair was
brown, his skin was pale, his eyes were blue.”
’s choice
Whicher is despatched to make sense of the curious 4Sin tetas no hay
sequence of events that led to the gruesome murder of The Suspicions of Mr Whicher is a vivid page turner, paraíso
a three-year-old, who was discovered in the servants’ full of cloaked clues and anecdotes that reveal the Gustavo Bolívar Moreno
privy of a respectable English country house. spirit of the age. The Victorians, with their tall La novela en la que se inspira
hats, bushy moustaches, pocket watches and love la exitosa serie de T5 del
mismo nombre, cuenta la
The author Daniel J Boorstein once observed wryly, of protocol provide a fascinating cast of characters trágica historia de Catalina,
that: “A wonderful thing about a book, in contrast to a – and their polite horror at the murder and their una joven de Pereira que
computer screen, is that you can take it to bed with you,” subsequent attempts to be useful to the police and asocia la prosperidad con el tamaño de las tetas.
and from under the sheets is the best place to enjoy the investigating authorities provides a touch of dark A sus catorce años se da cuenta de que algunas
Summerscale’s book, which is written with a humour to the chilling plot. como ella deben resignarse a vivir en la pobreza
rare talent and a beautiful eye for dialogue. It is sólo por tenerlas pequeñas.
compulsive reading, and it will keep you awake Few tales can claim to be as absorbing
well into the small hours of the night. as murder mysteries are; and as the long Se propone por ello conseguir a cualquier precio el
Spanish evenings begin to shorten and the dinero necesario para un aumento de pecho. Lejos
The Suspicions of Mr Whicher contains not public swimming pools are covered up for está de pensar que los implantes con los que tanto
just shadows of Conan Doyle, but also of another year, wading through Summerscale’s soñó, escribirán letra a letra su tragedia personal.
other Victorian detective novels. The style is narrative for clues can prove the perfect El autor nos acerca de forma dramática a una
spare, melancholic and equipped with a fierce catalyst for re-awakening the mind. Are the sociedad corrompida por el dinero, el narcotráfico
period ability for understatement. “I have had suspicions of Mr Whicher correct? You will
y la prostitución en la que todo vale para ascender
en la escala social.
a child stolen and carried off in a blanket,” have to find out for yourself.
20 www.europeanvibe.com
sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
discover madrid
of their regional consulates in the application form, and an original
States. Having grown up and lived copy of the Magna Carta. The
in Ohio—yes, the Ohio partly cul- tricky part is actually the bank
pable for George Bush’s reelec- receipt. You have to go to a bank
tion—I was under the blanket of to pay for paperwork you turn in
Chicago’s rule. What does that at another office. ¡Viva España!
mean? Well, for starters, I couldn’t
mail in paperwork. Nope, I had to Unless you plan on playing the ka-
schedule an appointment 6 weeks zoo in the metro, you’ll then need
in advance, drive 6.5 hours to the to find some work. The easiest
Windy City, then turn in 5 sheets way to do so is by trolling websites
of paper and a picture. Time spent like segundamano, loquo, and
at the office: 10 minutes. Time lingobongo for teaching jobs. I put
spent driving: 13 hours. Time up an ad as a native speaker on lin-
spent being frustrated: ongoing. gobongo and had 15 offers within
When I was next in line, I gave my a week. It’s best to be choosy, how-
travel buddy a call to pick me up. ever, as the quality of academies
I got my $100 Spanish permission varies. In addition, more respected
slip in hand, gave it the once-over, companies will want to see that
then hopped in my friend’s car and you’re legal, as businesses can be
headed home. fined 2,000€ for hiring illegals—
but it’s entirely possible to find
Upon my arrival home, I gave enough work without having
my passport to my dad, who po- papers. Some experts estimate up
e
litely asked, “Why is your name to 25% of Spain’s GDP is ‘black
ap
spelled wrong?” work’ (undeclared earnings)—
Red T
“You’re joking, right?” hey, ‘black work’ puts pan integral
“Not unless you’ve changed your on lots of English-speaking tables.
name.”
Lo and behold, my surname If you’re planning to get married
was spelled G-RAGGS. I hadn’t in Madrid—well, don’t. That is to
aperwor
font and my desire to exit official months once you get your empa-
rp
document hell. Needless to say, dronamiento and marriage licence.
fo
preparing
Spanish accents don’t sound Just ask EV’s own Luc Ciotkowski,
as sexy when you’re firing the of the recently-married ilk, how
words ‘inept’ and ‘idiot’ back and fun that can be. The solution
forth via telephone. And in the can end up being a trip outside
Spending three hours in a queue just to end? I got to mail my passport Madrid city limits into a suburb
be told you are at the wrong office or to come back and the problem was cor-
rected in a week. Talk about
or village to register for marriage.
One would think that a self-
back tomorrow with more documents you didn’t much ado about nothing. But identified Catholic country with a
that’s not where the fun stops. decreasing rate of marriage would
know you needed is nobody’s idea of fun. Ryan make the process a little easier.
Craggs has been there, done that and got the Located on Calle General One would think, but this is Spain.
Pardiñas, 90, the Comisaría Gen- No pasa nada (it doesn’t matter).
certificate (about six months later) and gives you eral de Extranjería y Document-
the info you need to get your papers in order. ación isn’t a place anyone will call One last anecdote: in Spain’s
a party, but there sure are a lot of national I.D. database, the gov-
WORDS by Ryan Craggs
people there – it’s identifiable by ernment allowed for names of up
the line waiting around the block. to 33 characters, as that was the
S
o, you’ve moved to Spain shipped off for the idealised new I lucked out in having my em- longest name in the country at
and have all the grandeur home: some call it bureaucracy, ployer schedule my appointment, the time. Of course, a French guy
of Hemingway and Lonely some call it an obstacle, but to but most have to do it themselves. marrying a Spanish woman came
Planet filling your head; most, it’s known as RED TAPE. This is the place where all non-EU in with a 34 character name.
blistering afternoons chilled by citizens have to slog through a Officials asked him if he would
drinks on a terrace, witnessing Red tape isn’t a local expression line to apply for a NIE. People change his name—he politely
the masculine expression of a to describe the extremities of the camp out to get into this office like declined and the government had
bullfight, scorched earth and Spanish flag. No, in fact, red tape it’s a Star Wars premiere. Before to overhaul the entire system.
olive trees, jamón in all its forms, is something every foreigner will you go, however, you’ll need the
and long nights spent noshing on have to deal with when relocating appropriate papers: passport, Most foreign residents of Spain
tapas and hopping from club to to Spain. Sure, the EU makes mov- photos, documents detailing your would say all the trouble of
club with a beautiful someone or ing between countries pretty fluid, reason for being in Spain, your Spanish red tape vale la pena (is
other on your arm. And yes, Spain but take the case of an American family tree, a report card from worth it) in the end. That won’t
does provide all of these things getting a Spanish visa: Americans first grade, a receipt from paying stop them from complaining in
for the adventurous hispanophile. are powerless to the jurisdiction for the application at a bank, the the process, however. Personally,
Many who venture to the land of I’d agree with vale la pena, in this
Mediterranean coasts and sangria case, but with one caveat; I think
waterfalls become permanent ex- Upon my arrival home, I gave my there’s another saying that must
patriates after falling in love with come along with it concerning
the language, the people, and the passport to my dad, who politely asked, all the hoops to jump through: Es
lifestyle. But there’s one little thing
you may not have counted on “Why is your name spelled wrong?” un coñazo (it’s one hell of a pain
in the ass). That’s something very
before you packed your bags and few can argue with.
22 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
Plaza del Carmen (entrance: Calle Salud 9) gigantic screen & tvs’
Metro: Sol/Gran Vía/Callao
Ph: 915 233 415 Happy hour
every
Thursday open every day
7pm-12pm. from 12pm- 3am
Pints of sandwiches &
tostas available
Pool table Heineken 2 x 1!!! all day
alá
Pre
Teatro e Alc
ra
Real
cia
nte
do
Calle
Mo
Aren
s
Palacio al alá
Real e Alc
Call
Ca
lle
San
Sol C arrera de S
tia an Jeró
Tel: 629261996
ayor
Calle M Mayor
c/ Santiago 1, Opera
Just off Calle Mayor
Irish Pub
Sto. Domingo Callao Gran Vía
13
53 12
60
14
Sevilla
Opera
map it out
Sol
17
9 15 3 13
10 48
GUTS FUSSION
Special Sports Menu c/Gutiérrez Solana, 6
Tel: 91 561 5668 Bernabéu OPEN 11AM-5PM.
MOORE’S LA CUEVA BAR DE COPAS, THURSDAYS,
FRIDAY & SATURDAY DJs. CHART MUSIC.
WE ORGANISE PRIVATE PARTIES www.guts.es
24 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
San Bernardo
Bilbao
8 20 Alonso Martínez
22
7
50
Noviciado
Tribunal
9
2
19
Colon
map it out
‘Step back in history to the only Enjoy typical Andalusian food, original
Arabic baths in Madrid’ décor, oriental dance shows and a
Over 300 years old, located in the cultural fusion every day of the year…
heart of the city centre Not to be missed!!
Come and relax in our thermal
baths with soothing oriental music
and traditional Arabic decor.
THE BIGGEST
SMALL BAR IN TOWN
Good beer, good sports, good times
vibe awards
Traditional food. Take-away available.
>>
Pint bottles of cider.
Plasma TV, darts and Free wi-fi internet.
All the Premiership and La Liga action live.
www.thecelticcross.net
www.europeanvibe.com
c/Maldonado, 14. Tel: 91 431 61 90. Metro: Nuñez de Balboa.
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 25
What do you fancy tonight?
food eat out guide
American Indian
Hard Rock Cafe Madrid offers the genuine american Namaskaar is an Indian Restaurant that specialises in
food and we create an authentic dining experience Tandoori dishes. You are guaranteed a warm welcome
at a beautiful location in the heart of Madrid.
in a rock ’n‘ roll atmosphere: Live music and An English menu is also available.
museum. Madrid has two bars, a great terrace and Day menu only 9.50€
two private rooms. Open every day 12:30-02:00 am Tel: 91 559 3311
Tel: 91 436 4340 www.hardrock.com www.namaskaar.es
Hard Rock Café Pº de la Castellana, 2 Colón/Serrano Namaskaar c/ Vergara, 7 (Right behind Teatro Real de la Opera) Ópera
El Chile Verde c/ Hilarión Eslava, 33 Moncloa Taj Mahal c/ Belén, 12 Chueca/Alonso Martínez
26 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
What do you fancy tonight?
eat out guide food
Spanish Italian
Japanese
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 27
bar chat This month’s venue:
Hard Rock Café
Pº de la Castellana, 2
Luc: What do you wish you had stage of the sales). When I first Luc: On balance, do most people Susa: You know, some foreigners
known when you moved to came here, I got a pair of jeans go to pick someone up or are they as well don’t hang around Spanish
Madrid? and like one or two shirts for 80 mostly there for the language? people, so it’s probably a good way
Susa: I wish I had known my ex- euros. About two weeks ago, in Aifric: You do get a certain amount for them to talk to some Spanish
boyfriend was cheating on me! He the segunda rebajas, for about 70- of that, but I have to say in general people. To use Spanish in a real
moved here before me and after I something euros I got three pairs people have a genuine interest in context.
came he got a week off work. He of jeans, four shirts, socks and improving their languages.
said he was going back to Brighton, underwear at H&M. Oh, and I got a Luc: Would it be wrong to
where we used to live in the south jacket, my size, for 12 euros. Susa: It’s so different in a group. just not do classes and use
of England, to visit some friends. They start again in February. I used to organise one, you intercambios to learn Spanish,
When he was away, I went to check welcome people and they mix. then?
my emails and I had a message Luc: Have you ever done Susa: No. As I said, it’s a social
from him. It wasn’t meant for me, intercambios (free language Aifric: You sit down and they just talk thing. And you need at least an
though, it was for his sister, telling exchanges)? to whoever is sitting beside them, intermediate level to participate.
her how he had slept with a friend Patrick: The first time I did an as opposed to having a big group
of his the night before. He’d sent the intercambio, I went with my room of people who arrive in a normal Aifric: You definitely need grammar
message to me by mistake and he mate. I was talking with this bar and just talking to random classes. If you go to an intercambio
was telling his sister all about it, all guy, he seemed like a nice guy, strangers. For shy people that would with no Spanish, you just don’t
you can imagine. a rather portly gentleman. And make it very difficult. So no, we had have the vocab to be able to talk
the first thing he starts talking a lot of regulars who made new about anything. You need to have
Aifric: Oh my God! about to me in Spanish was all people feel quite comfortable. a basic Spanish first, and then you
the whorehouses he had visited – can do an intercambio.
Susa: Yeah, well, later on I found which he described at the time as, Luc: I suppose it’s kind of inevitable
out he’d been cheating on me, like, um, ‘bars’. When he started getting that people will get together when Will Will: I went to
here with all the girls in Madrid. a little more explicit, it just clicked they’re in bars, with that setting? one, too. Well, the
and I just like, “Oh, my, God”. And Aifric: Oh yeah, especially when intercambio was
Will: Wow, that’s pretty nasty. I looked at my room mate and I there’s alcohol involved. kinda nice. It an
was just like, “We are leaving right interesting night,
Patrick: I wish I’d known about the now”. And since then I’ve never Susa Susa: You’ve got to though, because I think it was the
dollar decline. When I first came done a public intercambio. I do be careful with the first night that I’d been in Spain and
here I felt like I had everything under it with my Spanish friends: they Spanish you learn could tell that a Spanish woman
control, like I could buy a drink in a practise their English, I practise my as well, you know. I was interested in me. Because
club fine. Now it’s like, if I were still Spanish. But that experience was have had students usually I have a hard time reading
being paid in dollars, right now I’d enough for me. in my class (Susa is a Spanish Spanish women in general.
be figuring out how to eat on a teacher) who were like, “But my
daily basis. It’s fine now: I’m getting Aifric Aifric: I actually intercambio says that this is not Patrick Patrick: The best
paid in euros. But if I’d known about organised an correct”, and I’m like, “I’m sorry, but way to learn
it then I probably would’ve changed intercambio once your intercambio has no idea”. It’s Spanish is to drown
something around. It used to be 1.2, a week, which was more like a social thing than really before you can
now it’s 1.6. not as difficult as I learning. start to float. So, be
thought it would be, because it’s around as many Spanish people
John John: Mine’s pretty more of a casual kind of group that Aifric: You know what I think? as you can. Read as much as you
basic. I guess if get together, sit down and have a Intercambios are great for practice can. Because the more words you
I’d known about chat, as opposed to making it like a and building up confidence in read, the more words you look up,
rebajas (sales) the class. So, yeah it’s good. You do get speaking. A lot of Spaniards are the more words you don’t know,
first time I came the occasional weirdo like Patrick very shy about speaking English. the more words you see, the more
here, I’d have saved so much was saying, who comes to pick up They can maybe do writing and words you memorise, the more
money. Not only that, but tercera some young Americans, but the reading fine, but when you talk to words you see again and again
rebajas (third and even cheapest vast majority are lovely. them they get shy. and again.
28 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
Watch
live
sports
here
c/ de la Cruz, 11
film first
WORDS by PETER MOORE
Wanted
Spanish title: Wanted. Se Busca
Director: Timur Bekmambetov
Cast: James McAvoy, Morgan Freeman,
Angelina Jolie
A high adrenalin
action flick starring
James McAvoy,
Morgan Freeman
and Angelina Jolie.
Expect a rumbling
soundtrack, an orgy
of muscle flexing and
The X Files
of The Air I Breathe should be banished, enough time to inexplicably squander sadly Tony narrowly escaped a similarly
for eternity and a day. But before we let $50,000 on a horse called ‘Butterfly’, grizzly fate, due only to Brendan Fraser’s
them leave, we should first boil them in because, ‘he likes butterflies.’ useful ability to glimpse into the future. Spanish title: X-Files: Creer es la Clave
a vat and steam them mercilessly into Director: Chris Carter
repentance over a mound of organic But before you can properly lament the With tragic inevitability, things grew Cast: David Duchovny, Gillian Anderson,
cabbages. fact that Happiness was not granted the ever more depressingly bleak, with a Adam Godley, Amanda Peet, Billy Connolly
slightest chance to justify his name, you succession of traffic accidents, attempted Mulder and Scully,
Perhaps I am getting a little excitable, are disturbed by the arrival of one of the suicides and common assaults being the sharpest-dressed
but just how did it go so badly wrong? At most ludicrous cinematic inventions of thrown into the mix, before a flash of detectives of the
first, the signs for The Air I Breathe were modern times. serendipity arrived to solve all the tragic 1990s make a big
auspicious. Forest Whitaker, fresh from woes of the plot in a glorious stroke of screen reappearance
his triumphant portrayal of the petulant The character of Fingers, I presume, was fortune. Meanwhile Bacon and Gellar for more dour head
demagogue Idi Amin, was joined in the devised as the film’s sinister, machiavellian struggled admirably with the scraps, scratching, dalliances
villain: a money-driven mobster intended buoyed only by the presence of a with alien forces and
billing by Kevin Bacon, Brendan Fraser an unexpected cameo
and Sarah Michelle Gellar. A young to make people’s knees shake like maracas. creditable indie soundtrack and the odd from Billy Connolly.
director, Jieho Lee offered the possibility But the all-Italian, cool but dangerous, Noo sharply directed scene.
of a fresh perspective and the tagline was Yawk Tawkin mafia boss is so clichéd that
alluring: “Sometimes the things we can’t Andy Garcia, an elsewhere respectable The Air I Breathe fails as a work of art on a
change end up changing us”. actor, is successful only in conjuring a spectacular number of levels. Attempting
hilarious caricature. to straddle the void between an action
Ninety minutes later I wound up flick, a morality tale and a slap stick
confused and disappointed. Set in a For the entirety of the film he strutted comedy, it ends up suffering from an
faceless ‘Gothamesque’ city, the plot had about his patch, caught in an endless, identity crisis of Clark Kent proportions.
intended to portray snapshots of the tedious soliloquy, uttering nonsense The characters are bland pastiches of
grubby underbelly of American society
through four separate, but interwoven
mini dramas. These four vignettes had
about ‘biwsnus’ and ‘wrespect’, stopping
only to shoot the occasional hapless
victim with disquieting alacrity. Fittingly
something interesting, the stuff from
which stereotypes sprout, and the script
remains reassuringly awful throughout.
The Duchess
Spanish title: La Duquesa
been drawn from a Chinese proverb that for a film that was as deep as a puddle, Director: Timur Bekmambetov
Cast: Keira Knightley, Ralph Fiennes,
suggests that four emotional cornerstones the origins of his name were equally The only question that lingered was how Charlotte Rampling, Dominic Cooper
characterise life: happiness, pleasure, glib: Fingers was so-called due to his this drivel escaped from the studio and
sorrow and love. predisposition to removing the odd digit weaved its way through post production Your fifteenth chance
to see Keira Knightley
with a rusty pair of scissors. Charming. without being apprehended at some dressed up in period
What ensued, however, was vapid and point on route. At least, now that it has costume and acting
uninspiring. Grim, broke and laughing like As the plot trundled forward, further arrived, we can judge it for what it is: scandalously as an
a lunatic, the best actor of the lot, Forest ridiculous characters appeared, none an ignominious failure, so bad that it is eighteenth century
Whittaker (Happiness), was despatched worse than Fingers’ nephew Tony: a utterly unforgettable. it-girl.
with alarming efficiency by Lee with loquacious braggart in town with the VIBE STARS
30 sep 08
new movie releases film first
ORIGINAL VERSION
CINEMAS (V.O.)
>Alphaville Golem
Address: Martín de los Heros, 14
Tel: 915 593 836
Zone: Central
Price: 6.80 €
Metro: Plaza de España (Lines
3 & 10)
Release Date: 5 September 2008
Spanish title: The Strangers
Release Date: 12 September 2008
Spanish title: Wanted. Se Busca
>Pequeño Cine Estudio
Rodríguez (Line 3)
Address: Magallanes, 1
Tel: 914 472 920
Zone: Chamberi
Price: 6.50 €
Metro: Quevedo (Line 2)
>Princesa
Rodríguez (Line 3)
>Verdi
Rodríguez (Line 3)
Please note: details of all films are correct at the time of publication.
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 31
sport ryder cup
Sports Diary
25th-7th TENNIS US Open
Sep Flushing Meadows, New York
30th-21st CYCLING
Sep La Vuelta de Espana
31st Aug FOOTBALL La Liga
Atletico Madrid v Malaga
Deportivo La Coruna v Real Madrid
Numancia v Barcelona
FOOTBALL SPL
Celtic v Rangers
3rd Sep CRICKET Cardiff: ODI:
England v South Africa
6th Sep FOOTBALL World Cup
European Qualifying
Andorra v England
FYR Macedonia v Scotland
Georgia v Rep of Ireland
Slovakia v Northern Ireland
Spain v Bosnia-Herzegovina
Wales v Azerbaijan
7th Sep GAA Hurling
Ryder Cup
All-Ireland Senior Championship - Final
MOTOR CYCLING Donington
Park: World Superbikes
MOTOR RACING Formula 1
Belgian Grand Prix
8th-14th TENNIS Fed Cup final
10th Sep FOOTBALL World Cup
European Qualifying
Croatia v England
T
the tournament’s history.
Blackburn v Arsenal
Liverpool v Man Utd
WORDS by Harry Watkinson
Man City v Chelsea
ATHLETICS
Stuttgart: IAAF World Athletics Final
hose who know little of golf will fact that a good sporting story can RUGBY Tri Nations
Australia v New Zealand
still know of Tiger Woods. Those make all other issues drop away. 14th Sep FOOTBALL La Liga
who know a bit more of the game On this occasion, the story was Barcelona v Racing Santander
famously referred to as ‘a good found in the unlikely figure of 53- Real Madrid v Numancia
walk spoiled’, are now watching year-old Greg Norman, a 1000-1 Valladolid v Atletico Madrid
on in awe as the great champion shot before the tournament, having ATHLETICS
continues in his attempt to be not played serious golf since 2005. Stuttgart: IAAF World Athletics Final
simply called the ‘greatest of all Norman is a legend of the game, MOTOR RACING Formula 1
Italian Grand Prix
time’. To achieve this he must first with only Woods himself spending 16th Sep FOOTBALL Champions
surpass Jack Nicklaus’ record of more time as World Number 1. League
18 major championship victories; However, if you had suggested the 19th Sep RUGBY LEAGUE Super
made up of the US Masters, US Aussie, known to all as ‘the White League play-offs
Open, British Open and US PGA. Shark’, would be in position to take 19th-21st GOLF Kentucky: Ryder Cup
And, after heroically hobbling his the ultimate prize, you’d have been 19th-21st TENNIS Davis Cup semi-final
way to another US Open crown, he asked to change your medicine. Spain v USA
20th Sep FOOTBALL EPL
now stands only five away from the The fact he didn’t win made little Bolton v Arsenal
magic milestone of 19. But victory difference. A great story had been Liverpool v Stoke
in June came at a price for Woods. told and by the end no-one was 21st Sep GAA Football
His season came to an abrupt concerning themselves about who All-Ireland Senior Championship - Final
end after having major surgery to was or wasn’t in Liverpool. Don’t FOOTBALL EPL
restructure his knee and save his get me wrong, the game is all the Chelsea v Man Utd
career. This left the two remaining poorer without Tiger prowling FOOTBALL La Liga
Atletico Madrid v Recreativo Huelva
major titles shorn of the most the fairways, but it will survive his Sporting Gijon v Barcelona
famous sportsman in the World, absence. So, on this basis, I will 24th Sep FOOTBALL La Liga
and it also left the US Ryder Cup predict the Ryder Cup, to be held Barcelona v Real Betis
team without its star attraction. in Kentucky, will again provide Getafe v Atletico Madrid
the sort of action that has made Real Madrid v Sporting Gijon
Woods’ forced sabbatical imme- it one of the most exciting events 26th Sep RUGBY LEAGUE Super
diately led those who both write League play-offs
to watch over the last 20 years. As 27th Sep FOOTBALL EPL
about and watch golf to ask wheth- long as another great tale is told, Arsenal v Hull
er subsequent victories for the the event will be sure to escape Everton v Liverpool
lesser mortals on the Tour would from the shadow of the man who Man Utd v Bolton
be devalued and that spectator sits at home. Stoke v Chelsea
interest would temporarily drop 28th Sep FOOTBALL La Liga
off. I myself temporarily bought Before I go on, it is important for Atletico Madrid v Sevilla
Espanyol v Barcelona
into this line of thought until I those not in the know to have a Real Betis v Real Madrid
>>
attended the British Open in July. crash course in the workings of MOTOR RACING Formula 1
Once there, I was reminded of the one of the best international team Singapore Grand Prix
continued on page 34
32 sep 08
WE’RE NOT THE BIGGEST BUT WE THINK WE’RE THE BEST
LIVE MUSIC Poker Band, Blue Jeans, Superstition, Kairo’s, La Base Authentic Irish food served all day. Menu of the day 9 ¤
three Opens and the Ryder Cup’s record Tiger will say how much he wants
L
points scorer. The sometimes wild and quite to win with his team, and once
often wondrous Spaniard took every two years you will see him ast NFL season ended with the underdog
ev’s players to watch the event by the scruff Giants beating the undefeated Patriots
on the course losing
team europe of the neck and by sheer matches and looking in the Super Bowl, which arguably
Pádraig strength of character and like there were a whole produced the biggest upset in the history
Harrington golfing brilliance took host of places he would of the competition, with the exception of another
Record: 17 matches the fight to the Ameri- rather be. This was
cans. In 1983, the Euro- most patently shown
New York team, the Jets led by Joe Namath
(W-L-H) 7-8-2 (47% beating the Baltimore Colts in 1969.
Point Percentage) peans got within a point when paired with the
of winning and in 1985 Seve Ballesteros World Number 2, Phil The odds are against the Giants making a repeat
Lee they took the trophy Mickelson in 2004. The of their title, the Cowboys however might be a
Westwood for the first time in 28 years. The dream team barely spoke to each more likely candidate from the NFC, although
Record: 25 matches next match was held in America other, they got beat and ultimately
(W-L-H) 14-8-3 (62% teams like Seattle and any of the NFC South
Point Percentage) and once again Europe triumphed the USA got thrashed. So maybe, franchises could produce another surprise.
15-13 after a nail biting finish. just maybe, the absence of Tiger The AFC has the same clear favorites as last
Sergio It was in these two contests that will actually enhance rather than
García the excitement and drama of the hinder the chances of a victory for season. The Colts
Record: 20 matches Ryder Cup came to the fore, and the Stars and Stripes. have a stable of
(W-L-H) 14-4-2 (75% as part of this Seve found his ideal good runningbacks,
Point Percentage) match in fellow countryman, Jose Who knows? Not sure myself, but a great passing game
Maria Olazábal. The two formed what I do know is there is every led by their star
one of the greatest partnerships chance of more magic moments quarterback Peyton
Captain Paul Azinger in any sport, becoming nigh being shown on our TV screens Manning and a very
Brandon Jacobs
team U.s.A. unbeatable. And in this duo the later this month. But, it will
key to Europe’s continued success have some hard acts to follow, as solid defence. The
“I just want to say could be found. there are already many never to Patriots and their incredible trio of Brady, Moss
that it is, I think, the be forgotten moments. In 1991, and Welker will yet again prove unstoppable and,
greatest honour you
can bestow on a The nature of the competition there was the ‘war on the shore’ provided their defensive unit holds up, we may be
professional golfer is means that the golfers play in at Kiawah Island where Bernard looking at another undefeated season.
to ask him to captain partnership against each other Langer missed the final putt on San Diego Chargers look to continue their
a Ryder Cup team, and I’m awestruck by on Friday and Saturday, and then the final green to lose the match. growth, and, provided they stay healthy at key
it,” said Azinger, a member four Ryder Cup on the last day alone. Quickly In 1995, we had old foes Nick
teams (1989, 1991, 1993 and 2002). the contest became a contest of Faldo and Seve embracing in tears spots, they will challenge for their conference
the superior teamwork of the on the 18th after securing the supremacy. Losing Michael Turner won’t hurt
ev’s players to watch since they drafted
Europeans against the greater narrowest of wins; in 1999 there
team U.S.A. playing strength of the USA. And was the sight of the US players a highly productive
Stewart most often it was those going ballistic after and talented Jacob
Cink on the east side of the Justin Leonard holed Hester.
Record: 12 matches Atlantic who picked up an impossible putt and The team to look
(W-L-H) 3-5-4 (29% the prize by forming a then running all over
Point Percentage) unit much more than the 17th green with
out for are the St.
the sum of its parts. In Olazábal still waiting to Chris Long Louis Rams, who
Phil contrast, the USA team putt. And then, in 2004 were hit hard by
Mickelson injuries last year. This season, with Steven Jackson,
Record: 25 matches quite often appeared Justin Leonard and 2006, there has been
(W-L-H) 9-12-4 (44% totally incapable of the incredible sight of Drew Bennett and Marc Bulger healthy and the
Point Percentage) playing with one another. And the Americans being thrashed reshuffling of their offensive line they should
here you will find the reason why out of sight, with Tiger once again bounce back to the top of their division. Adding
Jim they may not miss Woods quite appearing all too mortal... We all ultra talented defensive lineman, Chris Long, will
Furyk as much as some may think. To hope the great man will be back
Record: 20 matches look at the stats you will see for a soon, but that does not mean the help their defence immeasurably.
(W-L-H) 6-12-2 (35% player likely to be ‘the best of the party in Kentucky will be put on Football is back so sit back and enjoy, unless you’re
Point Percentage) best’ he has a pretty lousy Ryder hold next month. Lions fan of course, in that case just sit back!
34 sep 08
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World Cup Qualifying Saturday, 13 September
Saturday, 06 September Blackburn v Arsenal
Andorra v England Liverpool v Man Utd
FYR Macedonia v Scotland Man City v Chelsea
MLB
Georgia v Rep of Ireland Saturday, 20 September
Slovakia v N. Ireland Bolton v Arsenal
Spain v Bosnia-Herzegovina Liverpool v Stoke
Wales v Azerbaijan
Sunday, 21 September
Wednesday, 10 September Chelsea v Man Utd
Croatia v England
plus all Major Iceland v Scotland
Montenegro v Rep of Ireland
Saturday, 27 September
Arsenal v Hull
Sporting September 19-21 N. Ireland v Czech Republic Everton v Liverpool
Events Live Kentucky: Ryder Cup GOLF Russia v Wales
Spain v Armenia
Man Utd v Bolton
Stoke v Chelsea
culture
I
“How much racism is there in Spain?”
WORDS by Peter Moore
n June, as Luis Aragonés guided minutes of typically stout Italian Rossi, he gave Spain a vital early
the Spanish national team to their defending, the match had fizzled advantage that was immediately
first major trophy for 44 years, the out into an inevitable penalty seized upon by Marcos Senna. The
population chewed worriedly away shootout. Half of Spain hid behind midfielder strode straight-backed
at their finger nails, expecting at their hands. For a country that had and confidently to the penalty
any moment at emergence of that been suffered a catalogue of woes spot. After taking a few measured
usual, horrid twist of fate. It could from the penalty spot, the prospect steps backwards, he jogged
be a squandered opportunity in of a few more loomed. casually up to the ball and stroked
front of goal, a missed penalty, a it smoothly into the top right-
calamitous refereeing decision or That Viennese night, however, hand corner of the goal, sending
an elbow in the face. Spain had found the imperious goalkeeper Italian goalkeeper Gianluigi Buffon
suffered them all. Iker Casillas in no mood for sprawling in the wrong direction.
respecting tradition. Cuffing away
But the familiar Spanish curse was a smart effort from Daniele De Senna had conducted his duty
eerily absent. From start to finish
they played with a zealous flair that
led to excitable comparisons with
Brazil, whilst coach Luis Aragonés
Senna had conducted his duty with
peered on from the sidelines, an effortless flourish, as if he was
looking as much like an irritable
taxi driver as ever. doing little more than making a cup
A friend later told me, that if he
of tea. Manolo el del Bombo thumped
was forced to nominate a moment his drum in delight as Spain moved
when he fully expected Spain to
combust, then it had come during 3-1 ahead.
Marcos Senna the semi final with Italy. After 120
36 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
culture
Race is an acute issue in early twenty
first century Spanish society and
its sporting arenas have often been
attacked as a hotbed of racism; a
breeding ground of bigots who are
happy to jibe and provoke players
simply because of the colour of their
skin. This characterisation has grown
during the past few years, stemming
from the events of a few disastrous
months in 2004 and 2005, when the
scourge of racism seemed to run freely
around Spanish football stadiums.
>>
their first black sporting hero. surrounded by an array of incredibly as he completed his warming down
Senna was voted amongst UEFA’s talented athletes, but also by a sea of routine and half way through a match
top ten players and was heralded white faces. in Zaragoza, the Barcelona striker
continued on page 38
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 37
culture
>> Samuel Eto’o attempted to leave
the pitch in disgust after suffering
an hour of racist abuse. “No más!”,
he bellowed, turning on his heels
and making for the dressing room.
Each time he had touched the ball
Luis Aragonés
38 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
discover madrid
Girls in Madrid
naughtiness comes as standard),
Huertas/Sol for Irish bars, sport
and rowdy stag dos, and Chueca for
a carnival atmosphere and hot men
(they may all be gay, but no harm in
looking!).
1
ally putting his hands down his
Let’s get the serious stuff out side and you’ll have trouble bra- trousers, I’ve never experienced
of the way first. To register at shopping if you’re much bigger than anything resembling sexual harass-
a doctor’s surgery you’ll need a D-cup – you have been warned! ment in the workplace, but if you
3
to take your social security number do suffer discrimination at work
along with your passport to your With all those shiny new you can report it. Complaints
nearest health centre to apply for clothes you’ll need a hairdo can be lodged at Women’s Rights
your health card (tarjeta sanitaria). to match. Hairdressers are Information Centres (Centros de
The contraceptive pill can gener- generally quite cheap here but Información de los Derechos de la
ally be bought over the counter in watch out for those added extras Mujer) and a free 24-hour helpline
Spain, and the morning-after pill – the price quoted in the window (900 191 010) can provide advice
(la píldora del día después) can be is often just for the cut and you’ll on general legal matters and sexual
obtained from a gynaecologist, at a be charged more for shampoo, harassment problems.
8
greatly reduced price if you present conditioning cream, blow-dry etc.
your health card. Abortion is legal Most places aren’t English-speak- ¡Estás como un queso! As a
here, but only covered by social se- ing so brush up on your vocabu- sassy girl-about-town you’re
curity under certain circumstances, lary beforehand. Be aware of the bound to attract your fair
so most terminations are carried difference between peinar and share of attention, so be prepared
out in private clinics. For more secar – the former includes styling for the odd lecherous comment
detailed information, check out whereas the latter is just a quick from men in the street. As per
www.angloinfo.com. blast with the hairdryer before be- always, workmen are the worst
2
ing booted out the door. offenders. Be dignified about it and
4
Now for another serious take it as a compliment, even if you
matter…shopping! Quirky Waxing is an important feel like turning round and ram-
boutiques and trendy labels part of your lady MOT and ming your stiletto down his throat.
can be found in Malasaña and completely necessary if The same goes for ogling - that old
Chueca, whereas for designer togs you’re considering going anywhere adage ‘it’s rude to stare’ doesn’t ap-
and pijos aplenty, head to C/Serrano near the pool/beach. Luckily, Span- ply here so don’t be insulted…just
in Salamanca. If cheap and cheer- ish women love to depilar, so there stare back!
Spanish men: they
9
ful is more your thing, the usual are plenty of reasonably-priced
come armed with suspects (Zara, Bershka, Mango, places and often you don’t need to Which leads me nicely onto
Blanco, H&M) are dotted all over make an appointment, unless you’re my final point: Spanish
different ideas on the city, as are stores of that great planning on a full body job. Most of men, those mysterious and
a whole host of Spanish institution El Corte Inglés the major hairdressing chains offer often puzzling beings, many of
things: chat-up lines, (great for those hard-to-find items beauty treatments, but personal whom still consider the mullet a
but also hard-to-find your way out recommendation is always best, so good look. As a Brit, I certainly
personal space, or a shop assistant who will help ask around. find them more direct than my
aforementioned
5
you). The streets around Puerta del bloke-shaped compatriots, and
Sol (Preciados/Carretas/Arenal) After all that shopping and they come armed with different
hairstyles, when are the best place for cheap but grooming, it’s time to treat ideas on a whole host of things:
to say I love you lovely shoes. Most places are open yourself to a cocktail or chat-up lines, personal space,
(after a week = scary Monday-Saturday around 10am-9- two! But where? Try La Latina for aforementioned hairstyles, when to
pm (El Corte Inglés 10am-10pm) cool bars full of urban hipsters, say I love you (after a week = scary
NOT romantic), although large shopping centres Moncloa/Argüelles for the student NOT romantic), thus making the
thus making the and the shops around Sol and Gran hangouts, Lavapiés for a more dating game a veritable minefield.
dating game a Vía open on Sundays. The concept bohemian vibe and Salamanca/Cas-
tellana if you want to net yourself a
But hey, variety is the spice of life,
of trousers in different leg lengths so now you’re done reading this
veritable minefield. hasn’t caught on in Spain yet, sizes footballer. Party in Malasaña with why don’t you get out there and
here are on the none-too-generous the young and funky (botellón meet a few for yourself?
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 39
culture
T
he glorious triumphs of of the empire over all the other Spanish, and the belated arrival of Darwin’s theory, since
Spain at Euro 2008, Rafa Iberian languages. the Industrial Revolution in Spain rather than men they
Nadal’s victories at Roland- brought with it the new political
Garros and Wimbledon, A very important thing to bear ideologies of Socialism, Commu-
resemble apes, rather
Sastre’s performance on the in mind during this time, though, nism and Anarchism.
less beastly than gorillas:
Tour de France and the heroics was that the different regions were By the end of the century, pretty do not search in their
of Spain’s olympians have most actually separate kingdoms, prin- much everyone in Spain was an faces for the expression of
other nationalities envious, but are cipalities or counties, bound to ’-ist’ of some kind. human intelligence nor
the Spaniards feeling good about the Spanish crown, but with quite of any virtue; their eyes
being Spanish? The separatist and extensive self-governing charters The driving forces in Spain’s only reveal idiocy and
regionalist divisions that currently called fueros. While these regional Industrial Revolution were Cata- brutishness.”
exist in Spain are much Rafa Nadal powers were gradually lonia (textile industry and trade
publicised. However, if dismantled, the Basque centre) and the Basque Country However, Arana’s ‘racial purity’
we’re going to answer the Country kept its fueros (heavy industries: iron and coal fears struck a chord with the
question of whether the and Basques began mining, ship building). It’s dif- Basques who felt threatened by
Spanish feel united again, to see them as rights ficult to overstate the importance the arrival of so many maketos
we must ask if they ever rather than privileges. of Catalan and Basque industrial (non-Basque Spanish).
really felt united in the preeminence in the late 19th Indeed, ’ungodliness’ was grow-
first place. To do that, we The start of the 19th cen- century and early 20th century in ing all the time all over Spain as
need to have a little look tury was a spectacularly shaping today’s political climate the influence and power of the
at history. rubbish time for Spain in those regions. Church fuelled resentment of it.
to get invaded by France, but they A short-lived First Republic gave
Spain started to be modern did. Although the first effective At this stage, we have to note an addictive taster to liberal-
Spain when Isabella of Castile application of guerrilla warfare that a sense of nationalism minded Spaniards before the
and Ferdinand of Aragon unified helped the Spanish to unite in was not as keenly developed as Bourbon monarchy was restored.
the crowns of their kingdoms. ridding Spain of the Bonapartes, in other European countries; Army generals had taken to step-
Together, as the Catholic Mon- Spaniards quickly realised they whether in Aragon, Catalonia, ping in and seizing control of the
archs, they emptied the last of were utterly divided on how a new Extremadura or Andalucia, government whenever things
the Moors out the peninsula, independent Spain should be. people’s first affinity was to the got shaky and, to avoid this,
banished the Jews, set up the A decade later, Spain’s empire was pueblo. The Catalan nationalist/ the conservative Cánovas del
Spanish Inquisition and had the all but wiped out and Ferdinand regionalist movement grew from Castillo devised a system of elec-
stroke of luck that Columbus VII taking back absolute power the burgeoning middle class of tion rigging, designed to keep
found them a new continent full for the monarchy was making workshop/factory owners and everyone happy. Conservatives
of riches. Catalonia belonged the country’s political landscape merchants and was more to do swapped power with progres-
to the Crown of Aragon, which look very fragile. Before his death, with perceived excessive control sives every four years, something
over time very much became the Ferdinand changed Spain’s laws and taxation from Madrid than which destroyed parliament’s
junior partner in the union with of succession, which had before anything else. The Basque move- last shred of credibility among
Castile. Castile imposed itself made it impossible for any female ment, however, was fuelled by the people. Cánovas de Castillo
more on the reconquered south heir to ascend to the throne if cultural and racial issues more was assassinated while serving as
and Seville was happy to be the there were any living male heir, so than economic ones. What had prime minister in 1897, his killer
only authorised trading port with that his daughter, Isabella, could always been a rural region with was an Italian anarchist.
the Americas. Throughout the become queen instead of the a deeply traditional and religious This turmoil would be dwarfed a
Golden Era of the 16th and 17th crown going to his brother Carlos. people, was quickly becoming year later, though, when Spain’s
centuries, Barcelona saw its im- Spain’s traditionalists and staunch an industrial centre with mass self-image would hit an all-time
portance decline as trade moved Catholics sided with Carlos and immigration from other parts of low.
from the Mediterranean to the Carlism was born. The rest of the Spain and all the ‘ungodliness’
Atlantic while Castilian Spanish century saw the Carlist civil wars typical of the new industrial
became the preferred tongue rip deep divisions between the towns and cities. The self-gov- TO BE CONTINUED...
40 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
the section for
learning spanish
>>
network, otherwise you will be charged EB: No hay problema. ¡No cerramos
a rather steep commission. hasta las 2!
continued on page 42
www.europeanvibe.com sep 08 41
the section for
learning spanish
EL CONSULTORIO
DE LINGOSTAR D e esta manera da comienzo año tras año
la campaña comercial de unos conocidos
almacenes españoles. Y es que en Septiembre
todo vuelve: las clases, el curro, la dieta, y lo más
doloroso, las deudas.
Respecto a esto último hay algo que todavía me deja
Hola Susana problema con el masculino y el sin palabras respecto a mis compatriotas: no importa
Por fin he decidido sacarme femenino pues no existen en lo endeudados que estén porque para ellos el verano
el carné de conducir. El único mi lengua. Si las palabras que es sagrado. Es esa época del año en la que puedes
problema es que creo que será acaban en “o” son masculinas,
muy difícil estudiar todo en permitírtelo todo aunque no tengas dinero en efectivo
¿por qué decimos la “foto” y la
español. ¿Sabes si es posible “moto? Gracias por tu ayuda
para abonarlo: desde el “pescaito” en el chiringuito hasta
hacer la parte teórica en inglés? Peter el cóctel a pie de piscina tropical. Algunos llegan incluso
Gracias a pedir un préstamo al banco para no quedarse sin su
Leo Querido Peter escapadita a la playa.
En primer lugar, recuerda que Por suerte las cosas van cambiando puesto que nos
Hola Leo no hay reglas absolutas sobre le vamos haciendo más “europeos” y cada vez más gente
Gracias por tu mensaje. Según género en español. Las palabras disfruta de las vacaciones en diferentes momentos
me han comentado sí es posible que acaban en “o” tienden a ser del año. No como antes, hace años cuando el que se
hacer el examen en inglés en masculinas pero hay muchos quedaba en casa en Agosto era calificado de ser un “don
Madrid. No conozco ningún ejemplos de femeninas. Sobre nadie”. Recuerdo con pena a una familia del vecindario
centro en concreto así que te tus dos dudas, estas palabras que para evitar la humillación de reconocer que no
sugiero que preguntes en tu se usan en español de forma tenían presupuesto para irse a la playa, se encerraron
autoescuela más cercana. abreviada pero son en realidad en casa con las persianas bajadas ¡durante quince días!
Seguro que ellos sabrán “la fotografía” y “la motocicleta”. Cuando “a la vuelta” la gente comentaba los blancos
asesorarte. ¿Entiendes ahora mejor por qué que estaban ellos se disculpaban diciendo que “les había
Y ¡buena suerte! son femeninas? llovido todo el tiempo”. ¡Patético!
Susana Sobre “la problema”, recuerda que
todas las palabras que acaban Volviendo al mes que nos ocupa, Septiembre siempre
Querida Susana en –ema son masculinas. me ha gustado; simboliza para mí la vuelta a lo
He tenido, sin duda, el Algunos ejemplos son tema, cotidiano, a lo de siempre. Para muchos, sin embargo,
mejor verano de mi vida; lo teorema, sistema o problema. este es el “mes del bajón” ya que al abrir la maleta ya de
he pasado trabajando de
camarera en Valencia donde
vuelta a casa se acuerdan de lo poco que les gusta su
he conocido a un chico genial. Espero haberte ayudado trabajo. No es este el mejor momento para renunciar a
Es español y vive allí. Me ha Saludos el puesto porque les toca pagar el crédito que pidieron
pedido que me vaya a vivir allí Susana para disfrutar del crucero por las islas griegas bajo el
pues quiere seguir viéndome. régimen de “todo incluido”.
¿Tú qué harías? Hola Lingostar
Un abrazo Estoy harta de mi novio. Es ¡Bienvenidos a todos!
Megan español y siempre que le pido
ayuda para mejorar me dice Cosas que hacer en Madrid para prevenir la depresión
Hola Megan que él no sabe y que es mejor
Me ha encantado tu carta. No si se lo pregunto a mi profesor.
se trata tanto de lo que yo haría, ¿No crees que debería Si acabas de regresar de tus ayudará a sobrellevar la
sino de lo que te diga tu corazón. ayudarme un poco más? vacaciones y la vuelta a la vuelta a la rutina.
Si te sirve de consejo yo una vez Petra rutina se te está haciendo Aprovecha las terrazas que
tuve que tomar una decisión cuesta arriba, sigue leyendo echarán el cierre a finales
similar pero en mi caso yo era Hola Petra y descubrirás que “no todo de mes.
quién recibía a esa persona Claro que creo que tu novio lo bueno acaba el 31 de Ponte en forma. Líbrate de
especial en mi país y puedo debería ayudarte un poco más Agosto”. esos kilitos de más que has
decirte que todavía hoy sigo pero tu situación es bastante Disfruta de las piscinas de cogido estás vacaciones.
siendo muy feliz. Dejate llevar por común entre las parejas mixtas. Madrid (al menos hasta el Organiza cenas con
tus impulsos y recuerda que ¡no Si no puedes hacerlo con tu día 7 de Septiembre) amigos e intercambiad
solo se viven pasiones en verano! novio, pregunta a tus amigos Comienza a hacer planes todas las experiencias de
Susana las dudas que tengas o intenta para las Navidades. Si no estas vacaciones
practicar con ellos todo lo que te has quedado sin un
Hola Lingostar puedas. duro este verano planifica Y… cambia todo lo que no te
Llevo ya un tiempo estudiando Un beso el fin de año y reserva el guste: de piso, de novio/a, de
español y tengo “mucha” Susana viaje. Tener una ilusión te trabajo, de estilo…
42 sep 08 www.europeanvibe.com
services
>Jobs learn interesting things about Madrid
and enjoy show this city? If you are a
talkative, outgoing and dinamic person. We are
Dynamic telemarketing company CALL US!!! We are looking for people like looking for:
is looking for individuals to work in you. info@mymadridfreetour.com Dynamic, motivated
a high energy office environment. Writers with Talent If you think you
Applicants must speak fluent English. are a talented writer and would like to professionals with a
Basic salary and bonus package offered. see some of your articles and interviews university degree and
If interested, contact Mark on 91 703 0222. published, send some examples of your You are looking for: TEFL, with 1+ years
Any good in the kitchen? work and a CV to editor@europeanvibe.com teaching experience,
At TONY’S CAFE we are currently looking DJ’s If you consider yourself a talented A well-established,
eligible to work in
for bar and kitchen staff. If you would like Club DJ and have considerable experience centrally located school Spain
to be part of our team in this exciting new send an e-mail to info@europeanvibe.com Attractive salaries
venture please forward your cv to sara_ Bar staff required Moore’s Pub - call
lluvia@yahoo.es or call Tony on 626322758 Morys - 915326331 Free Spanish classes
Sales Positions Available European Full time teacher Academia de
Vibe is in the process of expanding. If you idiomas Mission English, busca profesor Are you an English Teacher? Come work with us!
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europeanvibe.com salaries with good ó Master en enseñanza ó equivalente. 91-445 5511
commissions available. Excelentes condiciones y remuneración.
Native qualified English Teachers Interesados rellenar el Aplication Form en C/ Rodríguez San Pedro, 2
Sept-June contract We are currently nuestra pagina web. www.missioenglish.net Metro: San Bernardo
looking for eager, enthusiatic and lively Summer and Fall positions Now
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Knowledge and passion in Marketing
and Advertising would be an asset.
teachers. Request application.
www.americanlanguage.es TEACHING
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September We need an English teacher Part-time Secretary Small
for our next course starting on the 15th company require a part-time secretary. Contract Type Full-Time/Part-Time
of September and finishing in June. English is essential, Spanish is beneficial. Job Description
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to Friday from 4 to 8 approx.We offer basic mathematics required. looking for qualified and enthusiastic teaching staff. On a full-time contract you will
contract (work perimit needed!), block semaj_drahcir@yahoo.co.uk be expected to teach 24 hours, cover stand-by slots, complete administration
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hours & nice working astmosphere. Please Great Opportunity We have several will be a mixture of adult, young learner and in-company classes. Some of your
International House
send your CV to: puestodeprofe@yahoo.es courses with the Spanish Military that run timetable will be onsite, while some will be offsite. You will need to travel to these sites.
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Language school in Madrid for one month (September), two months
www.ihmadrid.com
Language school in Madrid is looking (October and November), four months Pre-requisites
for a native teacher of English for classes (September to December), or even the Cambridge CELTA, Trinity TESOL, PGCE + TEFL experience, or equivalent
with teenagers and adults at the first entire school year (September to June). EU passport holder (native speakers) or valid work permit for Spain Degree
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Idiomas
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Would you like meet new people, Thamesis We are currently recruiting For further details look at our website: www.ihmadrid.com or contact
Recruitment at rrhh@ihmadrid.com or telephone: 902 14 15 17
Native english teachers for 20-25 hour
contracts to start september 2008. When applying please attach the following: a copy of your TEFL certificate,
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Please send CV. thamesis@thamesis.es
Global Services We are looking for
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00 34 915 593 129 for individuals to work in a high energy office
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onetoone@es-onetoone.com Basic salary and bonus package offered. TEFL or equivalent required. Background knowledge in
www.es-onetoone.com If interested, contact Mark on 91 703 0222. Law, Finance, Marketing or Business Studies preferred.
Candidates must be legally entitled to work in Spain
>
Interested and have an EU work permit? Contact us NOW:
www.beacon-lc.com www.windsor-idiomas.com jobs@trainingexpress.es TEL: 91-5211554
more jobs
services
>Jobs >Language Academies
44 sep 08
services
com or Chris 695 513 466. Voleyball We are looking for voleyball together for rides in madrid and out into is a great mixture of hockey and tennis!
Democrats Abroad Madrid players, different ages (m/f ). Send a email the sierra contact me on 914638865 Practices for both men and women. All
Info: es.democratsabroad.org to: jl_ag@hotmail.com Hockey! Come along and join us ages welcome. www.madridlacrosse. com
Brand new Aerobics in English Thai boxing club in Madrid at Somontes sports centre (on the Snooker: Right on Cue and in the
club. Great routines, completely in English welcomes new members of all sexes & Madrid-El Pardo road) on Saturdays for Frame. Fancy a break and a Snooker
and banging music to boot! Phone Cheryl levels to learn this amazing sport, get fit, mixed non-league field/grass hockey experience second to none?
on 677244074 or email frenchfancy@ lean & hard. Visit www.muaythaimadrid. on water-based astroturf pitch. Email: Cue Mark on 618 784 550 or email
gmail.com for times and location. com email info@muaythaimadrid.com or los_naranjas@yahoo.com.au for more info. break4snooker@yahoo.es
Australian Alumni Association call David on 662164877. Madrid Lions Rugby Club needs
of Spain Meet, network and socialise
with people who have studied or lived
futbolmadrid Los Galácticos –
Friendly international 5-a-side football in
you! All nationalities and player levels
welcome. More information from Charlie >Miscellaneous
in Australia and are now in Spain. Email Madrid every Wednesday and Saturday. on 636 067 716 and website www.
australianalumnispain@gmail.com to All abilities and nationalities welcome. To madridlionsrfc.com Pancarta.es is Spain’s leading
receive updates on upcoming events. play, all you have to do is find out what Youth Baseball. Close to Alcala de print service for international clients.
Writers’ group Writers with work time, where and sign up on our web Henares. We need coaches, players and Everything from exhibitions to business
in progress and a view to publication board: http://futbolmadrid.proboards49.com anyone able to help us develop a youth cards. All in English! www.pancarta.es 622
welcome. Call Charlie on 91 816 2419, or Hockey! Come along and join us at league in this area. Tel Jose on: 91 879 142 385 - 931 924 153
e-mail madridwriters@patchword.com the weekends for mixed non-league 3068 (eves) English Speaking Handyman Juan
The Australian Club in Madrid field/grass hockey on water-based Madrid Club de Lacrosse. 670797638
meets 9pm first Friday of each month at astroturf. We play at the Federación Interested in playing lacrosse? E-mail: Proinc Construction 918464363
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on 669 458 341, or visit website: Pardo road) Email: los_naranjas@yahoo.
www.australiaspain.com/gudonya, or com.au for more info.
email: gudonya@australiaspain.com Cricket in Madrid Madrid Cricket
Madrid Players, English-language Club is looking for players of all levels and
theatrical group. We put on plays, small nationalities. Play in the Spanish league!
productions, do in-house readings, Contact David (670087637) or Manny
improvisations, etc. We meet every (627557572)
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in Madrid, learning history of Madrid and www.madridhhh.com
making new friends. Sat mornings every 2 The Dodge. Dodgeball Practice
weeks. Free. E-mail: Bbbb7@mixmail.com in Madrid. www.dodgeballmadrid.
bravehost.com
>Sports Clubs Basketball Madrid. Meet new
people, get fit and enjoy yourself.
People wanted to practice basketball
>>
¡YNWA! MADrid REDS, the Official once a week. Active social calander.
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the Triskel Tavern, calle San Vicente Ferrer, Mountain Bike Club. Riders wanted
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info@MADridREDS.com Male, female riders interested in getting
>>services
more services
MONKEYHOUSING.COM Si
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