GUISER Leigh Bowery

>Movies >Interview >Text >Drawings >Competition

>Intro
> View Movie One (6.5MB)
> View Movie Two (6MB)
> View Movie Three (6.5MB)
> View Movie Four (8.5MB)
 Introduction
Guiser presents a rare selection of original and previously unpublished material looking at,
listening to and writing about the legendary figure Leigh Bowery. The extraordinary
personage of Leigh Bowery has had an enormous influence on visual culture - across fashion,
art, music and performance - and SHOWstudio wanted to celebrate this legacy. Guiser brings
together previously unseen film footage of Bowery being photographed by Nick Knight, with
unreleased sound material from 'Minty' demo tapes as soundtrack. An essay by one of
Leigh's contemporaries, Donald Urquhart -whose own artistic output and creativity mirrors
the breadth of Bowery's output, as well as intertwining creatively with it. Urquhart's text
gives personal accounts of some of the posthumous events that have commemorated Leigh
Bowery.
> Movies
View previously unseen film footage of Leigh Bowery
being photographed by Nick Knight.
Requires latest QuickTime Player to view
> Interview
Listen to recording of Leigh Bowery in conversation with
Honolulu, Christophe Lambert and Richard Torry.
Requires latest QuickTime Player to view
> Text
Read 'The Legacy of Leigh Bowery' by Donald Urquhart.
> Drawings
View Donald Urquhart's exquisite and humorous pen and ink imagery of Leigh Bowery, drag
culture and the fashion from his unique point of view.
> Competition
Enter our competition for your chance to win one of four larger
than life portraits of Leigh Bowery by Nick Knight.
> Credits
Photography and Film: Nick Knight
Motion Image Direction: Adam Mufti
All sounds recorded and provided by Richard Torry from Minty rehearsal archive tapes.

Creative and Editorial Direction:

Paul Hetherington and Penny Martin
Curatorial Direction: Christabel Stewart
Project Design: Paul Bruty
Editorial Assistance: Laura Cricks

Thanks: Nicola Bateman Bowery, Donald Urquhart, Richard Torry

> Artist Biographies
Leigh Bowery
Leigh Bowery dedicated his life to the exploration of self-invention, and he used his own
body as his canvas. [More...]
Donald Urquhart
Donald Urquhart, born in 1963 in Dumfries, Scotland, is a writer, performer and artist.
[More...]

In Gear

1967

Courtesy of Granada International

They say London swings - it doesn't - not even the King's Road, Chelsea.
But here and there among the conformist fatcat crowds, is a lean cat or
two, looking like it might swing given some encouragement. And in
among the chain stores and supermarkets is, here and there, a shop that
may have something all its own to say, to the character, to people who
can put living before a living.
World's End means where the King's Road ends, which shows what the
King's Roaders think of themselves.
Granny Takes A Trip, the shop behind the face calls itself, and it's typical
of the non-typical. Conforming to the non-conformist image of 'the in' -
what they used to call 'way out' and before that 'with it' and before that
'groovy' and before that 'hep' and what granny herself would have called
'the very latest thing, my dear.'
Maybe the toy car's a key. Childhood innocence at war with the hard
adult world - the fun of dressing up. Hung On You meaning both we sell
clothes and we love you, which is good shop-keeping in any language.
And the lollipop says what the toy car said - it's all another tiny coloured
womb - warm and gentle, in its way, an escape from the H-bomb,
television and other horrors of the work-a-day world.
In this King's Road that London is lumbered with, stands, just, a collation
known as The Antique Supermarket and antiques can mean clothes. This
lady's time machine is headed for the flapper world of the '20s - doubtless
a trip many a time traveller
would love to take.
One way of saying no to authority is to parody it. Some of the young, with
little to say yes to, come to Soho - that pulsating heart of swinging
London where girls join clubs
to see old men strip, or is it vice versa? And, at the cutely named I Was
Lord Kitchener's Valet, buy uniforms of the past to affront the uniformity
of the present.
A street called Carnaby affects those tourists who delight in the relics of
Britain's past - Stonehenge, Brighton Pier, The House of Lords, but some
natives are still seen - albeit heavily cloaked. Much of the gear reverts
back to the kinky period in Britain's brave history and for those who still
thrill to the sight of purple lace-up boots, here are purple lace-up boots.
In Carnaby Street you can't tell the assistants from the customers.
Anybody addressed as madam would probably sue for defamation of
character. John Stephen, these are his shops, is the uncrowned king of
Carnaby Street. Many of his business rivals would dearly like to see him
crowned.
The return of the dickey. For the man who can't afford a clean shirt but
won't admit it. Pop art spats - ideal camouflage for the larger foot. A shop
called Gear and you're never too young for 'in' gear - until you're old
enough to say so, anyway.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, countdown King's Road, the tills click
merrily on. For all the strangeness, these are clothes to be worn, to be
bought and sold. These soft, music-loud caverns of the avant garde can
be misleading, for they are the work cells of revolution.
Once upon a time, just a year or two ago, fashion originated in the haute
couture salons of Paris, then spread downwards through society in ever
cheapening copies with one predominant theme. Shops such as this
would have interpreted the mode. No more. Now, they originate and so do
a dozen others in a dozen styles owing nothing to Paris or anyone else.
So it is that the 'in scene' of London is one big fancy dress ball. Men come
as cowboys, hussars or refugees from St Petersburg 1917. It girls, oomph
girls, who's for tennis girls. Eau de lisks from the harems of bygone
Turkey mingle with kaftan slinkers from gay Arabia and boa-bedecked
hoydens from the lids of ancient chocolate boxes. A super-charade of
happy happenings - though it might be fun if some designer somewhere
thought something up entirely new.
None of this, thank heaven, adds up to swinging London but it makes a
not unpleasing splash of colour in the old city. What gear the cats are
wearing is one story, where they wear it is another. But whether here at
Tile's or here at the Bag O' Nails or at Samantha's or Georgie's or the
Saddle Room or any of the 'in' gaffs where 'they' go, just don't take any of
it too seriously or you'll miss the whole point.
<ref> {{cite web | url = http://whatgetsmehot.blogspot.com | title = What
Gets Me Hot | accessdate = 2010-06-06}}</ref>
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section at its end yet, please paste that in too:
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<ref> {{cite encyclopedia | encyclopedia =
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= 2010-06-06}}</ref>
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Samsung have announced a new phone with an odd name The phone in
question is called the Samsung Miniskirt Season 2 (or the even-less
intuitive SCH-C225, SPH-C2205, and SPH-C2255), a title that contains not
a hint of the gadget it actually refers to. Looking nothing like a mini-skirt,
the new Samsung phone is being pitched firmly at women, who
apparently like to Talk, Play, Love.
More details and pictures of the Samsung Miniskirt phone (and girls in
miniskirts, naturally) after the jump.
Given its role as a fashion phone, you’d expect the Samsung Miniskirt to
be short on features, but not a bit of it. Not only does it have all the usual
features you’d expect (2 megapixel camera, bluetooth, MP3 player), it
also comes with GPS and a rather oddly-named “Smile shot” function,
which recognizes a subject’s smile when taking pictures of them, and
uses as that as the focal point. There’s also a haptic touch-pad, just to
round off the features.
As you’ve probably guessed by now, the Samsung Miniskirt is destined for
the Korean market only, priced between 400,000 and 500,000 KRW.
[Source: Aving.net]

Unnecessary Intrusion of People in School School

Uniform Skirt of Japanese Girls
Japanese school girl uniform was introduced
more than a century ago. And there is hardly any
difference between uniform of private and public
schools today and a hundred years ago. In those
schools where it is required to wear uniform girls
wear gray or black pleated skirt and white
blouse but there are some that has different
color and pattern on the school uniform as there
are alot of private middle and high school here.
You won’t miss a Japanese school girl at the
street due to a couple of reasons. The first one is
uniform which is quite remarkable. Another one
lies in the “phenomenon” that girls never appear
in parks, clubs or in other public places by one.
They are always in groups. Further, Japanese
girls are cute and looks more prettier in
short skirt school uniform.
Japanese School Uniform, perhaps
best in world Un-neccessarily, the
world is after school skirts of Japanese
girls. Further, the funnier part of this is
that people all around the world have
been talking and at the same time
admiring how awesome and short it is
for a normal school girls skirt to be
wear like that on public. Japanese
school uniform has been consider/
ranked as the best uniform designed for students among all the other
countries especially the school girl uniform. Because of their skirt length,
many people here can easily spot their pantsu ( underwear ). But they are
not ashamed on it as they have alot of skill to be able to hide their
showing underwear in public.
However there has been news/report that
revealed about why their skirt length are made
to be short. In actual reality they are not
supposed to be mini and It’s not part of the
uniform. Many young girls especially in high
school, they purposely rolled up their school
skirts to make them shorter as many might try
to provoke anger among their elders or to try
and look more sexy to the opposite sex.
However if the skirt isn’t all that long in the
beginning it ends up being mini after just a
couple of turns. Therefore many people doesn’t
think the Japanese high school girls are doing
it to be outrageous or brave now though and
they certainly aren’t trying to show individuality
as too many of them are doing it. It’s more like
sheep-style behaviour.

Guy Bourdin Exhibition

17 April - 17 August 2003

Contemporary Space

At the heart of Guy Bourdin’s fashion photographs is a confrontation with

the very nature of commercial image making. While conventional fashion
images make beauty and clothing their central elements, Bourdin’s
photographs offer a radical alternative.
Guy Bourdin presented fashion as the luxurious embellishment rather
than the subject of his photographs. He magnified to centre stage dark
fantasies, of lust, consumption and desire.
The fundamental significance of his photographs lies in Bourdin’s
knowledge that it is not fashion but its image that seduces and
fascinates us. Guy Bourdin was at the height of his career from the mid
1970s to the early 1980s. The first room of this exhibition concentrates
on these years, when Bourdin was working predominantly for French
Vogue and Charles Jourdan shoes. As well as photographs, the display
includes films that Bourdin made on fashion shoots.

The photographs, slides and notebook pages in the second gallery are a
record of the images that Guy Bourdin chased throughout his life. They
offer an insight into the thousands of observations he made and his
unrelenting capacity to shape his experiences into a visual form.
Although the print qualities, camera formats and locations change over
time, the instinctive control that Bourdin exerted over his subject matter
is repeatedly played out. Together, they are like his best fashion work –
both brilliant and unsettling.

Publication

A book entitled Guy Bourdin,edited by Charlotte Cotton and Shelly

Verthime, accompanies the exhibition. This book is the first thorough
investigation of Guy Bourdin’s compelling visions and includes in-depth
essays by Laurence Benaïm, Rosetta Brooks, Charlotte Cotton, Philippe
Garner and Shelly Verthime. It contains a breathtaking sequence of
images including previously unpublished photographs and others not seen
for over twenty-five years.
Price £35.00 (HB)
ISBN 1 85177 399 1
Purchase at the V&A shop, or buy from the V&A shop online.

Compulsive Viewing: the films of Guy Bourdin

Guy Bourdin’s cinefilms are the fascinating product of his observations of

the everyday and the internal world of the fashion shoot. SHOWstudio,
Nick Knight’s pioneering fashion broadcasting project, has been given the
unique opportunity to reinterpret these cinefilms. Ten of Guy Bourdin’s
film shorts can be viewed at www.showstudio.com

Made in Paris

The V&A's Guy Bourdin exhibition is linked with a season of French

photography and video, Made in Paris: Photo/Video taking place
throughout the month of June 2003 in twenty London galleries. It is co-
ordinated by the French Embassy-Institut Français du Royaume-Uni.
1. Do Girls Like Mini Skirts in School uniform? Click Here
2. Japanese School Girls' Extremely Short Skirts - Click Here
Commons sum-it-up
Used 23982 times since 2007-05-19
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Do Girls Like Mini Skirts in School uniform?

Opinion of Girls
In many countries like England, Japan,
U.S.A. and even small countries like
Swaziland school girls have a tend to
wear short skirts in school uniform.
Some schools are prohibiting it and
some schools or societies do not
bother it as much depending the trend
of that very country.

According to a
survey on internet, some conclusions were as
below -
One girl says that when she was at school they had
no choice. She says that she would have loved to
have been allowed to wear trousers, or even a long
skirt, as she waited long for bus in cold weather.
But when she left school trousers were allowed for
the girls. She says rarely rolled up her skirt, but
those who did, did it for rebellion. No jewellery or
makeup was allowed so the only method of
rebellion was the roll your skirt up.

Another girl expresses herself as -

 Well, I'm in my last year of school, I leave in 2
weeks. So I guess being the oldest in the school
gives us a sort of defense... Some girls in my year
wear the REALLY tight skirts with slits up the side
and that go right up to their arses, others wear
flowey skirts that go down past the knee.
Personally, I wear the flowing skirt, but quite
short, mainly because it's boiling now it's summer,
and I wear tights under my skirt, and shorts (which
is more than I can say for some girls in my year)
not to attract attention, but to keep cool, and not
overheat because I'm stuck in the school hall for
hours on end with the other 150 people doing
exams! Like another answer says... Only the
people who can't pull off short skirts are dissing
those who can. Just because some have nicer legs
than others.
i used to wear a short skirt in the summer because it was hot, i was a
teenager and most teenagers like attention from the opposite sex, and
cos i had nice legs! I wasn't a "-------", in fact it's mainly girls who wouldn't
get away with wearing one that think that girls that do are sluts!!
At my school we have the choice of black pants or black skirts. So that's
why I wear a skirt. I think they look more feminine than pants and are
better in the summer, I would probably consider shorts if they were
permitted at my school
Yeah i don't mind wearing a skirt, although i have a school uniform so i
have to. They are pretty short but it's okay, i prefer having to wear a short
one than a long one.
Well, From the girls at my school, it depends on their personality. If they
like it because it's flirtatious,that's why they wear it. Some girls wear
short shorts because it's also too hot.
My friend wears a really short skirt with knee high socks and I think it
looks cool. People have different taste so it's probally not to show of their
legs or anything like that. x
I like wearing short shorts mainly because I like my legs and they're
comfortable to wear when its miserably hot outside.
They wear them really short because they're tarts!! They're are attention
whores that like pissing off mummy and daddy and are looking for trouble
from perverts....... the boy that screamed wolf
you know you love it when they do.. and me wearing a pleated grey shot
short skirt with a thong in view just above my skirt...then a little blouse
showing my lean tanned stomach....
I love it when they do it . . especially without panties.
I personally hate skirts. Shorts are cool but not skirts. I like my legs
though.
Related Links -
1. Unnecessary Intrusion of People in School School Uniform Skirt of
Japanese Girls - Click Here
2. Japanese School Girls' Extremely Short Skirts - Click Here
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• Lady Gaga

30 May 2010

Alexander Fury:
SHOWstudio.com is a fashion website, first and foremost - Lady Gaga, we have
asked you to be the ninth participant in our series of In Camera interviews
because, more than any other contemporary musician, your work feels
inextricably connected to fashion. What function does fashion serve for you? Do
you use it to underline your musical themes, or is it another outlet for a different
type of creative expression? - Asked by Alexander Fury, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:03 Alexander Fury
 Lady Gaga:
It's all of the above, but I think more importantly on a cultural level I think
music and fashion have always mirrored each other as part of a creative
12:03
context. They cannot be separate. I need fashion for my music, and I
need music for my fashion.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:03 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
You are such an inspiration, from what you wear to how you sing. But
where do you get your inspiration from? - Asked by Ricky White , New
York, New York. / Laura Bowery, Merseyside / Alexander Gray,
12:08
Massachusetts / Allie johnson, Columbus, GA / Lorna Leigh, Portsmouth
UK / Sunny, France / Tudor, Romania / Marie-Helene, Canada / Alana,
Sanatana-AP / Aurie Akers, Arkansas / Tondo, Slovakia, Martin
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:08 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
From capital HIM. I think there are two different kinds of artists. People
who need to be plugged into a cultural movement, in music, fashion or the
latest fishing techniques. But I think for some of us - and I would perhaps
say the same about my friend Nick Knight - it's a much more innate gift. A
much more spiritual experience. We don't have to be plugged into a
12:09
particular movement to be part of it. It's transcendent, it's an inspiration
that we're born with. To be perfectly honest, right now my biggest
inspirations are my fans. I feel they subconsciously submit their freedom
and love and joy into me. It's almost like we have our own little spiritual
connection separate from anything else.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:09 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Did Rainer Maria Rilke's theory that artists should not accept criticism help
12:10 you stay determined when you were starting out? - Asked by Meadhbh Nic
Nuadhait, Ireland.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:10 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Yes. I love Rilke, it's no secret that I live my life in almost utter
submission to him. I think it's important to be objective about your own
work, and it's important what I've learned from Warhol to use the people
12:10 around you to feed your creativity. If you have an incessant need for
validation from an outside place, that's when criticism can be detrimental
and even life-changing. You don't want the world to dictate your work, you
want to be a funnel. In short, I don't give a fuck what anyone thinks.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:10 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Do you find it difficult to deal with negative criticism in the media? - Asked
12:11
by Heather Hunter, Virginia, United States / Jessica Hebert, Lafayette, LA
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:11 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
No. It can always be personal, because my work is personal. But you have
to believe in yourself and what you're doing, and almost refuse criticism
12:11
and negativity. It's like the wrong organ was given to you in an operation.
You've got to reject it.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:11 Lady Gaga
 Alexander Fury:
Your little monsters know that when you began your career in New York
City, the music you were making and playing was sonically very different
12:13 from the music you make now. What was the shift for you? Why did you
decide to start making dance music? - Asked by Perez Hilton, Los Angeles,
California.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:13 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I started out when I was very young, playing classical music when I was
four. When I turned eleven that's when I started to write pop music, and I
wrote jazz, and I got into ragtime. Then I got into sort of folky jam music,
Bob Dylan, and then I got into Queen and Bowie. And then disco. It was
my intellectual evolution, and my love of music started to change and
form. When I was living downtown alone I was able to look into myself
12:13
and ask myself if I must create music. And I must! And if I must, why? I
resigned myself to make the kind of music I wanted to listen to, what I
thought was great - what I thought would be groundbreaking where I was
living. Indie music was the norm in New York, and pop music was seen to
be corporate. And in true Gaga fashion, I decided to make pop music in a
town where there was none.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:13 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Your fans do so much for you, from rallying together to vote you to the
top of the charts to holding mass requesting sessions on radio stations.
12:15
Why do you think so many little monsters care and support you the way
that they do? — Asked by Farrah Marie, Santa Barbara, California.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:15 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I don't know. I feel so blessed, it's so unexplainable the love that I feel for
my fans and how they treat me. The videos, the notes, the artworks - the
other day I spent hours reading through all this and raving about how
12:15
talented and lovely my fans are. Love is a symbiotic thing, especially when
it's real. Perhaps it's just very real - I put love into my fans, and they give
love to me, and we continue to give love back and forth forever.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:15 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Traditionally pop stars engage in one-way communication with their fans,
but your relationship with your "little monsters" is more like a digital
12:18
conversation: is this a conscious or instinctual gesture? — Asked by
Vikram Alexei Kansara, New York.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:18 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Instinctual. I am the way I want to be with my fans. We have a very
special and honest relationship. It's almost comical to talk about. Just the
other day, I revealed to my fans that my grandpa was sick, and the next
day I went to say hello to my fans on Twitter and saw there were all of
12:19
these lovely messages from them. That has nothing to do with my music
or my clothes, that's just pure friendship. My new album that I'm creating,
that is finished pretty much, was written with this new instinctual energy.
My fans protect me, it's now my destiny to protect them.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:19 Lady Gaga
 Alexander Fury:
If you were able to travel through time where would you go – backwards
12:22 or forwards and why?
- Asked by John Galliano, Paris.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:22 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
My first instinct is to say to go to the past, because I would love to
experience and see all that has influenced and shaped my vocabulary.
However, I will decline the past, I would say if I had to choose I would go
to the future. The reason is quite selfish: because Alexander McQueen
12:22
used to say, you must never look back, you must always be going
forwards. I would go to the future - selfishly - to feed my work and make
me a better artist, to crate more forward-thinking, innovative, magical and
poetic work, like he did.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:22 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Your looks are so extreme. Is this a reaction to something? Are you
12:24 questioning or altering the status quo of women's style? - Asked by Mario
Testino, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:24 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Yes. Yes I am. I am a feminist. I reject wholeheartedly the way we are
taught to perceive women. The beauty of women, how a woman should
act or behave. Women are strong and fragile. Women are beautiful and
ugly. We are soft spoken and loud, all at once. There is something mind-
controlling about the way we're taught to view women. My work, both
12:25 visually and musically, is a rejection of all those things. And most
importantly a quest. It's exciting because all avant-garde clothing and
music and lyrics that at one time were considered shocking or
unacceptable are now trendy. Perhaps we can make women's rights
trendy. Strength, feminism, security, the wisdom of the woman. Let's
make that trendy.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:25 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What is the process by which you and stylist Nicola Formichetti put
12:26
together an outfit? - Asked by Jordan, Louisiana.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:26 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Nicola!! It's really easy. He's one of my best friends, and Nicola knows
exactly who I am as a musician, an artist and a girl. And the whole Haus
12:26 of Gaga works together - Matthew has been creating clothes for me for
years We have a cigarette and whiskey and look through racks of clothing
and then go. It's organic, there's no pretense or preconception.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:26 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What are your favourite and least favourite outfits we created together? -
12:30
Asked by Nicola Formichetti, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:30 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
My favourite? That's quite a difficult question! One of my favourites was
12:30
the red McQueen lace archive dress, and the tall red crown for the MTV
Video Music Awards. My favourite that we made was the performance
 outfit that bled on its own - it was such a strong statement about clothing
being alive, it lives and breathes. That was incredible. The least
favourite... I don't have one! You're amazing Nicola, you always nail it. No
regrets. We've done so much together, it's difficult to say my favourite
and least favourite. It's like saying I don't like my arm!
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:30 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Can you describe your style in one word? - Asked by Paulette Wilson,
12:31
Baltimore, Maryland.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:31 Alexander Fury

Lady Gaga:
12:31 Free.

Sunday May 30, 2010 12:31 Lady Gaga

Alexander Fury:
12:34 What do you like about wearing a hat? - Asked by Philip Treacy, London.

Sunday May 30, 2010 12:34 Alexander Fury

Lady Gaga:
It is a nice barrier. The bigger the better. The more interesting and
outrageous the better. For me it keeps the devil away. I always like when
12:34 I have a hat that's big enough to keep people away at pretentious parties.
It's protection. It's a sense of home away from home. But what I like
about a Philip Treacy hat is that they're like nobody else's.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:34 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What do you think hats can do for you that clothes can't? - Asked by
12:34
Stephen Jones, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:34 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
They protect me in a different way. A social canopy, a hat is a social
12:34
canopy. I love Stephen Jones too!
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:34 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Is there one observation you have made about the zeitgeist that has
12:36 gotten the most powerful reaction from people? - Asked by Marcus,
Sydney.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:36 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
A few. One being the hair-bow, and the second being 'Bad Romance' at
the end of the Alexander McQueen show, and then the clothing in the
12:37 video, and that show becoming what is sadly now known to be his
crescendo. I wish it wasn't as powerful as it's become. I wouldn't say it
was necessarily a zeitgeist moment, it's more destiny.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:37 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
If you could be anyone else for a day who would you trade places with and
12:38
what you do in their place? - Asked by Jefferson Hack, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:38 Alexander Fury

12:38 Lady Gaga:

 I would be Iman! She's my friend, I can say that. I'd do whatever Iman
does in a day. That's probably the most selfish answer I could give! What
a fabulous woman.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:38 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Kurt Vonnegut once said that humans have been telling fantastic stories
from the beginning of the time, and that the drama found in such stories
is something we constantly try to emulate in our own lives. With your
12:39
music and aesthetic, are you another fantastic story-teller, or are you
showing us what real life can be? - Asked by Nabil Azadi, Auckland, New
Zealand.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:39 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Both. I'm telling you a lie in a vicious effort that you will repeat my lie
12:39
over and over until it becomes true.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:39 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What would you call the movie about your life? - Asked by Jonas Åkerlund,
12:40
Sweden.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:40 Alexander Fury

Lady Gaga:
12:40 Born This Way.

Sunday May 30, 2010 12:40 Lady Gaga

Alexander Fury:
Warhol is such a big influence in your work, and Madonna is as well. How
is it having a personal relationship with her now? After all she did know
Warhol, and I think we can state he's your biggest influence. Meeting you
for 1 minute was so surreal (you gave me an autograph after a concert.) I
12:46
can't even imagine having a personal relationship with someone I adore so
much. How do you feel when someone not only so iconic, but also such a
big personal influence, is suddenly an accessible person? - Asked by
Laurent James, Antwerp, Belgium.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:46 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Madonna is a wonderful wonderful person. She is so full of the most
wonderful freedom and spirit, and is so kind. Working with her has always
been very exciting and very fun. We have shared some wonderful honest
moments together. She comes to my shows, I've asked her questions, she
give me advice. It's been my experience in the industry that I've
connected on a much deeper level with the more iconic and legendary
12:46
people that I have admired, and not with any of my contemporaries. The
one things the legends all; have in common are that they are the nicest
human beings I have ever met. As a segway from knowing, and meeting
and loving Madonna it has allowed me to meet amazing, wonderful iconic
people. By meeting these people, I have discovered myself. My freedom.
My security. Myself.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:46 Lady Gaga

Alexander Fury:
12:51 Who creates limits? - Asked by Marina Abramovic, New York.

Sunday May 30, 2010 12:51 Alexander Fury

 Lady Gaga:
We do. We create our own limits. I am a huge fan of Marina Abramovic.
She is a limitless human being! She is so incredible! I went to see her
12:51 exhibit at MOMA and she is limitless. I look at her, and she is so free. It's
when you are around someone like Marina when you realise she is so
boundless. I think we are the ones who create our limits.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:51 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Name one song when it comes on the radio you sing along to, but you are
12:52 embarrassed that you like it, so nobody knows? - Asked by Quentin
Tarantino, Los Angeles, California.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:52 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
That Taylor Swift song - 'You Belong To Me' - I sing it so loud, and I'm so
12:52
embarrassed! Because I sing it so loud. But it's a great song!
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:52 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What do you think is the biggest misconception about you? - Asked by
12:54
Ethan, Fort Worth.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:54 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
That I'm a character. Or that Gaga is separate from Stefani. We are one
12:55 and the same, there is no difference. I am exactly who I say I am, and I
am exactly who you say I am.
Sunday May 30, 2010 12:55 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Let's talk about the discrepancy between your private and public lives.
Where is the line? When is the precise second when it switches? Do you
13:00
feel the need to take a deep breath and do the thing, or does it always
feel like you're on stage? - Asked by Hedi Slimane, Paris.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:00 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
There's two parts to that question. The first part, the discrepancy between
private and public life: I believe as an artist, being private in public is at
the core of the aesthetic, the message. However, I profusely lie about my
personal relationships in an effort to protect that aesthetic and that
message. Today people are distracted by unimportant things - like what
my diet is, or who I'm fucking. The second part of the question said when
is the precise moment when it switches: I would like to be able to say
13:00 when there's a dick inside me it switches. But it doesn't always. I do
sometimes feel that I'm on a stage all the time, and I do feel that life is a
stage for my art. When I'm dancing, singing, making breakfast. But there
is a moment of freedom, when the stage disappears: when I cry. On
stage, off stage, alone or with someone. There's something very honest
about that. It has nothing to do with taking off a wig or smearing my
lipstick. It doesn't even have anything to do about whether I have an
orgasm. It's much deeper than that.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:00 Lady Gaga

Alexander Fury:
13:00 What did you wear to your prom? - Asked by Surabhi, India.

Sunday May 30, 2010 13:00 Alexander Fury

 Lady Gaga:
I wore a black carwash dress. It was made out of chiffon, wrapped around
like a black tube dress. It was very very shot and had black strips at the
13:01
bottom, like a carwash. Then it faded into grey. It was great. I think it was
$300, it was so expensive.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:01 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
How did your old classmates and teachers react to the fact that you're
13:07
now one of the most popular people in the world? - Asked by Korin, Israel.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:07 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
My classmates, I don't really speak to all of them. My closest girlfriends
are wonderful and haven't changed a bit. As for the school... that has
been a bit more of a sad experience. The teachers have been wonderful -
the nuns are lovely, and the English teachers and the head of the school
were wild feminists and instilled wonderful values in us. The teachers are
the best, and the most wonderful, brilliant teachers. They are truly
magical. I have nothing bad to say about the school, but I will say I've
been really sad about some of the things that have happened with my
high school, because my sister goes there and my family worked so hard.
13:08
My parents were not rich, they spent every dollar they had for my sister
and I to go to the most wonderful, expensive private school they could
afford, to have opportunities they didn't have. I suppose in an attempt to
also say something about religion, as a Catholic school I have been put off
by the very un-Catholic way they have responded to my success. It's not
even disappointing, it's sad. My family gave up many things, so my sister
and I could have a wonderful education. There is such a diluted sense of
religion and what is right - perhaps the school's just not what it used to
be. It makes me very very sad.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:08 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
You always knew you wanted to be famous. What is the most unexpected
13:09 part of that - the thing you never accounted for or imagined? - Asked by
Ari Emanuel, Los Angeles, California / Jorge, Lisbon
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:09 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
The love I feel for my fans, the love that they have given to me. It's so
13:10
precious, you can't even imagine it.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:10 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
How has your fame affected your relationships with your friends and
13:13
family, if at all? - Asked by Jennifer, New York.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:13 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
It's hard on people. At one point I was slightly insensitive about it, as I am
very unaware of my fame. I had arguments with my parents - it was hard
for everyone. I don't want my parents of my friends to be incessantly
13:14
asked about me. It's difficult but we made it through. Part of that as that I
started to grow up a little bit and understand how my career has affected
the people I love, and be quite objective about it. I'm still very much just
an Italian girl from New York who is trying to follow the spotlight. We
 made it through, it's good now! Your real friends, the real people that you
love are still there.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:14 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Do you ever wish that you weren't famous? - Asked by Star, Pittsburgh,
13:16
PA. / Bryce, Houston, TX
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:16 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I've always been famous - just nobody knew about it. Fame is on the
inside. I guess you can say 'The Fame' is something I've always felt and
want my fans to feel. Do I wish I wasn't famous today? No. I do wish
13:16
sometimes I had more privacy, but there are sacrifices that you make.
The trade off is that if I wasn't famous I wouldn't have my little monsters
and I would never give that up for anything.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:16 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
You are seen as super-ballistic space-age modern but what do you feel
13:17 about the dress of past centuries as a basis for your costumes? - Asked by
Colin McDowell, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:17 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
The MTV performance outfit was futuristic but quite romantic. A
knowledge of what has been done before is very important. it's important
13:17 to know the past - but it's important to be original. I'm still working on it -
if you get one really good original moment in your whole career, you're
solid.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:17 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What is the craziest outfit you've seen worn by one of your monsters at
13:18
The Monster Ball? - Asked by Jordan Holloway, Morgantown, WV.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:18 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
They're all so great! They get all dressed up and sometimes it's so
distracting! One of my favourites - which was quite committed - this boy
came dressed as Kermit the Frog. I guess he wanted me to think my
13:19 boyfriend was in the audience, as that's when I was dating Kermit. He was
so committed - it was so hot! There have been so many, they're all
amazing - I couldn't possibly choose one, they're all so wonderful! But he
really suffered for his moment.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:19 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What is the one thing that you hope your fans take away from you as a
13:19
person, and your music? - Asked by Kristin Fritz, Minnesota.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:19 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I want them to love themselves. If I could for a moment just inspire you
13:19
to love yourself, that would be worth everything.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:19 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What is the most obnoxious thing a male fan has ever done or said to
13:21
you? - Asked by Edison Chen, China.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:21 Alexander Fury
 Lady Gaga:
Never obnoxious! I quite enjoy when fans are waiting for a very long time,
and then say 'I have been waiting for ages and I need you to sign seven
13:21
CD's and have a photo' - like 'I'm a good fan!' I've never really had an
obnoxious fan.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:21 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Is there ever a time you feel scared of your monsters? - Asked by Brenda
13:22
Jam, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:22 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Not often. I would say 99.9 infinity percent, I am not afraid. But every
once in a while, there is a very extra-troubled fan that really wants to see
13:22 or speak to me. I've actually before contacted parents and told them I
thought their little monster needed some help, and attention, and love. So
no, I'm not afraid.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:22 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What is your favourite monster (literally 'monster', not referring to her
13:24 fans), favourite animal in folklore or mythology, and favourite scary story?
- Asked by Takashi Murakami, Japan.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:24 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I guess one of my favourite monsters is the Angler Fish - a real monster
from my childhood. My favourite from mythology is the unicorn. I love the
13:24
unicorn. My favourite scary story is the one that I'm going to dream about
tomorrow night.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:24 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Do you believe in God?
13:25
- Asked by Tatin, Hongkong.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:25 Alexander Fury

Lady Gaga:
13:25 Yes. And the Devil.

Sunday May 30, 2010 13:25 Lady Gaga

Alexander Fury:
My favorite tattoo of yours is "Tokyo Love". What will your next tattoo be
13:27 and where on your body will it be?
- Asked by Matthew Williams, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:27 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I don't know. I want to get one that says 'Born This Way' and one that
13:27
says 'Free Bitch', I think. But I'm not quite sure.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:27 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
How did you feel playing face-to-face with Elton John at the 2010
Grammies?
13:29
- Asked by Raquel Zimmermann, New York / Megan, Glasgow / Whitney ,
Wilmington NC / Catherine, Perth
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:29 Alexander Fury
 Lady Gaga:
I felt so happy, and so joyful, and so grateful! You can really see it on my
face in that performance that I was just so happy. It was a transition at
13:29 that point, where I was beginning to build friendships with these people I
admire so much. It was like the Berlin Wall falling. I felt a lot freer after
that. I felt very free.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:29 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Who would you love to duet with dead or alive?
13:30
- Asked by Naomi Campbell, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:30 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
With you Naomi! I would have loved to do a duet with Judy Garland. I
13:30 would have loved to have known her. John Lennon. David Bowie! And Nick
Knight, but we do lots of duets together!
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:30 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Is there a song you would not sing?
13:31
- Asked by Nick Knight, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:31 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Yes. I wouldn't sing anything hateful, or violent in a hate-producing kind
13:32 of way. I'm fascinated by war and violence, but I would not sing a hateful
song.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:32 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What thing(s) do you feel you have left to achieve? You worked hard to
become this sensation and your face, name, music and performances -
right down to the make-up - are iconic and mimicked by other singers.
13:35
How do you perceive your celebrity presentation and how will you evolve?
Where will you be in 5 years?
- Asked by Stevie Wilson, Los Angeles
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:35 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I have zero perception of my celebrity presentation. I hope to not be a
celebrity, I hope I am perceived as separate from the idea of celebrity. I
hope I am perceived as important, and loving, and peaceful, and
enigmatic. I hope - even more - that I am perceived as good to my fans. I
have so much to achieve, I have achieved my fans but I have artistically
13:35
so much to say and so much to do. Musically, I'm a garden and not a
desert. I am so impossibly not finished. I always want to exist in a
separate space - a Gaga space, a Monster space - that is impervious to
anything else. A cell wall that cannot be penetrated. A safe haven. I want
to be relevant and irrelevant, all at once.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:35 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Do you agree with the following statement: Women are crazy vaginas?
13:36
- Asked by Bret Easton Ellis, Los Angeles, California.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:36 Alexander Fury

Lady Gaga:
13:37
No. That's too general. And every vagina feels different.
 Sunday May 30, 2010 13:37 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What's the nerdiest thing you've ever done?
13:38
- Asked by Spencer, Nampa.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:38 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I am very nerdy every day. I don't know if I can even find a way to
separate one out. Right now the Haus of Gaga and I are in the middle of
13:38
trying to extract the effect the smell of blood have on people. We really
want to know.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:38 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
If you decided to have children what would you call them?
13:39 - Asked by Kate Moss, London / Marécaux Céline, Belgium / Madison
Logan, Beaufort, South Carolina / Liam R. Findlay, Weymouth, England
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:39 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I like Annabelle, I like Lennon, for a girl, I also like Joey, after my father.
13:39
And Joanne. And Sophia, after Sophia Loren
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:39 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Who is the most interesting person you have ever met?
13:42
- Asked by Aline Macedo, Brazil.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:42 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Probably my grandmothers. I suppose you don't really meet your
grandmothers, but both my grandmothers are so strong, have been
through so much, they are the strongest and most irreplaceable women.
13:42
And so deeply loved by their husbands as well. And my mother as well. So
I would say the trinity of women in my life. My grandmother Angelina, my
grandmother Veronica and my mother Cynthia.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:42 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
Did you miss having a 'Lady Gaga' in the 90s, while you were a teenager,
13:45 to be a fan of and to identify with?
- Asked by Raíssa Venticinque, California.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:45 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
No. I suppose I didn't know what a 'Lady Gaga' was. I always knew it was
my destiny to be an entertainer, but I was ready to be the new thing. I
admired the women I grew up watching, the pop stars - Britney, Christina,
13:45 Madonna, Blondie and Patti Smith, and Linda Perry and 4 Non Blondes. I
could go on and on. When I was around 13 I started to listen to older
music, like Zepplin, Queen, Pink Floyd. I was much more obsessed with
male rock stars - Bowie in particular.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:45 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
At the Met, Oprah Winfrey called you some kind of spiritual and cultural
leader. How do you feel about that, and what do you do to "uphold" that,
13:49
as in, do you think of yourself as a role model to younger people and kids?
- Asked by Stephen Gan, New York.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:49 Alexander Fury
 Lady Gaga:
Yes I do. I appreciate so much that Oprah said that, Oprah is so
wonderful, and such an inspiration as well. Things change - I didn't have
that much perception of how people viewed me until a point, but then
things change. In my next album, I'm much more self-aware of my
spiritual and leadership qualities, in the way that any artist is a leader. I
13:49
don't think that sex and drugs and talking about things openly are wrong
or bad, but I think the most terrible thing you can do is be prejudiced. In
my career I am most emphatically against prejudice. I guess I would say
that it how I lead my fans through my music in that way. I am okay with
that responsibility.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:49 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What's one thing even your best friends don't know about you, until now?
13:51
- Asked by Javier Peres, Los Angeles, California.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:51 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Probably how much I really miss you, and - I hope you know this - that I
13:51 would not be where I am today without all of my most wonderful and
closest friends.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:51 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
What is your attitude towards collaboration with peers in the pop music
13:53 scene? Is it an idea which scares, excites, or even interests you?
- Asked by Graham Conway, Toronto.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:53 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
At this moment, I don't want to do any collaborations, especially
contemporary ones. I want to stand on my own two feet. This new album
is my chance to create what in 20 years will be seen as my iconic moment
13:54 - that's what you should always aim for. Today, collaborations are about
appealing to a wider market and gaining radio plays and album sales,
above artistic integrity. I collaborated with Beyoncé because I love her.
She is my favourite contemporary pop musician.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:54 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
2pac vs Biggie?
13:54
- Asked by Joe '3H' Weinberger, Los Angeles, California.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:54 Alexander Fury

Lady Gaga:
13:54 Can I choose both?

Sunday May 30, 2010 13:54 Lady Gaga

Alexander Fury:
What question do you want to be asked? What question has no interviewer
13:55 ever asked you, but you would like to answer?
- Asked by Jerre, The Netherlands.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:55 Alexander Fury

Lady Gaga:
13:55 How are you? I rarely get asked that!

Sunday May 30, 2010 13:55 Lady Gaga

 Alexander Fury:
Gaga, I see all these pictures of you getting off a plane in an outfit, a full
on head to toe - I want to know how you do it. I cant really picture you in
a Virgin sleep suit, but I'm assuming the plane is one place where you can
13:57
catch up on your sleep - so what happens between the plane and the
arrivals lounge?
- Asked by Gareth Pugh, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 13:57 Alexander Fury

Lady Gaga:
13:57 I sleep in all my glamorous glory!

Sunday May 30, 2010 13:57 Lady Gaga

Alexander Fury:
Do you think that the arts can change the future? (for the present that we
14:01 all seem to be in is certainly not the one I envisaged!)
- Asked by Daphne Guinness, London.
Sunday May 30, 2010 14:01 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I do, I do think that we can change the future with our voices, and with
music and with fashion. And I know why she feels that way. I will say so
14:01
genuinely and authentically Daphne, when I met you, you change my
future.
Sunday May 30, 2010 14:01 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
I'm wondering to what extent your style has been influenced by Isabella
Blow and Daphne Guinness? I detect not merely more high fashion in your
14:02
look, but more English flamboyance.
- Asked by Cathy Horyn, New York.
Sunday May 30, 2010 14:02 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
Isabella and Daphne are two genius human beings. Women, icons, but so
much more than that. They are for me a way to look into myself and
14:02 examine their lives and who they are in an effort to understand myself
better. Isabella is an enormous inspiration and so is Daphne, and I cherish
their lives. I cherish them both, as if we were cut from he same cloth.
Sunday May 30, 2010 14:02 Lady Gaga
Alexander Fury:
You are amazing. Instead of being asked a specific question, is there any
14:05 specific thing that you would like to say to your fans right now?
- Asked by Celeste, Pennsylvania.
Sunday May 30, 2010 14:05 Alexander Fury
Lady Gaga:
I would like to say to all my little monsters, who I love so much, that I
cannot imagine my life without you, nor can I imagine my future without
14:05
you. And I sometimes even question how I survived without you, before
you. I will forever passionately only serve you. I love you.
Sunday May 30, 2010 14:05
 • Box
Maison Martin Margiela

A/W 10 > Maison Martin Margiela > Box

• Video
• Text
• Credits
White 'Box' pochette lined in nappa leather, £290, by Maison Martin Margiela Ligne 11 at Maison
Martin Margiela +4420 7629 2682

by Alex Fury

When speaking about fetish objects in

fashion, the immediate example that leaps to
mind is the cult of the 'It Bag', cultivated
throughout the 1990s, specifically by Tom
Ford at Gucci and the explosion of the Fendi
'Baguette' in 1998. It continues unabated -
this decade has been about multiple must-
haves for each season, but this is perhaps the
first example from the esteemed house of
Belgian Deconstructionist Martin Margiela,
who has chosen rather than creating an it-bag, to create an it box. It is a Margiela tie-box, taken from
their own shop stock and lined in white nappa leather to render it an object of luxury - indeed, for
many, an object of desire.

This is a supreme example of designer double-speak - a box as bag, packaging with which to
package your own belongings. In essence, they're selling you an empty box, and the wink-wink
nudge-nudge irony implicit in that will hopefully be understood by Margiela's astute, intellectual
clientele. The humour under Margiela's work - both the man himself, and the team that has
proceeded him - is often lost in the intellectual cant thrown around the house. There is certainly a
wicked sense of humour in this bag.

Margiela shies away from obvious branding in any of its products, choosing instead to affix a blank
white label with four visible stitches to its garments. Here that label is affixed to the white leather
interior of the box, and the Margiela name is printed in relief on the exterior - it is branded, but it is
white on white branding. That is important, because box as bag also links in with the idea of
fetishisation of a designer name, and a designer name alone. Margiela's engagement with the concept
of overt branding has always been difficult. The removal of the name from their label signifies the
house's reluctance to pander to the idea of a designer and a designer as status symbol - Margiela is
always spoken of as a 'house' rather than as an individual designer, and in the same vein, although
Martin Margiela no longer heads the label bearing his name, the team there are insistent that that
bears no relation to the clothes now produced. This box is a comment on the contemporary
desirability of a designer name alone - it doesn't matter what the name is affixed to. On ebay.com
you can buy designer carrier-bags and designer clothes-hangers: they are being traded as
commodities. In a sense, this is an exaggeration of that, pushing it to an illogical extreme. Margiela
has reinvented its own external branding as a distinct item of luxury.

Despite intellectual pretensions, at its essence fashion is all about surface. This box-as-bag takes the
external, and literally removes the contents. It's packaging with no product: the packaging itself
becomes the product. It's a supreme example of superficiality - but that was the intellectual intention
in creating it.

A/W 10 > Maison Martin Margiela > Box

• Video
• Text
• Credits
White 'Box' pochette lined in nappa leather, £290, by Maison Martin Margiela Ligne 11 at Maison
Martin Margiela +4420 7629 2682

•
•
• Necklace
Yves Saint Laurent
A/W 10 > Yves Saint Laurent > Necklace

• Video
• Text
• Credits
Gold chain necklace with 70's pendant, £1,010, by Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche at Yves Saint
Laurent +4420 7493 1800.

A/W 10 > Yves Saint Laurent > Necklace

• Video
• Text
• Credits
Gold chain necklace with 70's pendant, £1,010, by Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche at Yves Saint
Laurent +4420 7493 1800.

by Alex Fury

In an Autumn/Winter collection dedicated to

protection, this Yves Saint Laurent necklace
designed by Stefano Pilati has all the
qualities of a voodoo talisman, a protective
charm to ward of evil spirits. Pilati’s
interpretation, however, is a fashion talisman
- warding off evil sartorial spirits, perhaps.

This is just one example of a series of heavy

gold necklaces from the show, each one
adorned with the silhouette of an iconic YSL
outfit past. The silhouettes themselves were are taken from actual photographs of classic Yves Saint
Laurent garments, sliced from seventies fashion magazines by Stefano Pilati – with Cossack boots
and the outline of a peasant blouse clearly discernible, this one is taken from his epoch-defining
Russian collection of 1976

In its simplicity, purity and sheer heft, there is a resemblance to a nun’s rosary worn at neck or waist.
The rosary is a symbol of devotion in the Catholic faith - in this context, perhaps this necklace
symbolises a similarly religious devotion to Yves Saint Laurent. Of all labels in the world, YSL is
the one name that warrants it - and indeed has often received it. It's notable that Pilati took these
silhouetted forms from the 1970s, a period rightly acknowledged as Saint Laurent's heyday. The
trademark looks of the era - the Safari suit, flared trouser for women and platform shoes to name but
a handful of those most often revived - were pioneered by Saint Laurent. Indeed, the nineteen
seventies were a time where every woman rich or poor seemed to be attired in a look that could be
traced directly or otherwise back to Yves' febrile imagination.

It must be stated that Stefano Pilati refuted any religious influence behind this show, but there is an
distinct subtext to women chastely attired in form-concealing black-and-white, glinting symbol at
neck, occasionally accessorised with a hat resembling a wimple. Perhaps this was the influence of the
cult of Yves Saint Laurent past, a past Stefano Pilati is acutely aware of - not that he has any real
choice in the matter. By affixing totems of YSL’s history of style so visibly to a collection composed
of his modern reinterpretations of the master's signature looks, he was arguably reconciling past with
present, creating a fusion for the future.

• Necklace
Mary Katrantzou

• Shoes
Loewe

•
•
• Shoes, Socks
Prada

A/W 10 > Prada > Shoes, Socks

OBJECT FETISH #6: Vivienne Westwood MAN socks

By SHOWstudio, 18:00 Wed 02 Jun 2010

Despite the title writ large above, 'sock' seems far too mundane a term to describe these crystal-
crusted gewgaws of footwear frippery from the grande dame of British fashion, Vivienne Westwood.
Our first foray into menswear for Object Fetish, these socks collide the distinctly macho tradition of
the Scottish kilt-hose - and, in true World Cup flavour, those shin-padded acrylic knee-high numbers
sported by many a sportsman - with all the elaborate luxury of the silk-stocked Ancien Régime fop. A
glittering jewel amidst her A/W 2010 'MAN' show, Westwood's latest creation continues her own
bold aesthetic riposte to the Great Masculine Renunciation - although, for simplicity, we discarded
the sequin-crusted kilt.
View this project
Blue knitted socks with brown woven knitted detail, £85, and turquoise court shoes with white trim
and metal detail, £520, both by Prada at Prada +4420 7647 5000

A/W 10 > Prada > Shoes, Socks

• Video
• Text
• Credits
• odel: Emily Trimble at Storm Models
Blue knitted socks with brown woven knitted detail, £85, and turquoise court shoes with white trim
and metal detail, £520, both by Prada at Prada +4420 7647 5000

by Alex Fury

Miuccia Prada has an eye for the perverse.

Her work is about inversion and parody,
making otherwise dowdy garments desirable,
while simultaneously taking the sex out of
sexy.

These socks and shoes are a prime example

of Prada's play with attire. At first glance,
there could be nothing sexy about the items
themselves - cable-knit woollen socks,
square-toed loafers with a sensible block heel, in a colour palette more pensioner than Prada.

But if we take the fifties cartoon theme of Prada's collection as our basis, it's an easy jump to see
Prada's cable-knit as a postmodern take on the sexy seamed stocking, twisting that erogenous line to
the the front and rendering it inch-thick. This fits with the collection's pop art play on proportion -
Prada inflated breasts with ruffles and blew up lingerie ribbon bows in patent leather, and these
stocking seams are recreated as into a braided wool trim that could be read at twenty paces,
exaggerated like a cartoon character.

After the Prada menswear show in January - which was shown in the same space and with the same
backdrop of an postmodern imaginary city as the womenswear collection these socks and shoes are
taken from - many commented on the seventies feel to the clothing offered. Although this collection
looked back further, mainly to the 1950s and the influential silhouette of Christian Dior's New Look,
the double-face cashmere suiting, sludgy colour palette and especially accessories had a touch of that
seventies feel. What many commentators missed in the menswear show was that Miuccia Prada was
referencing her own body of work. This was the 1970s via the 1990s, a revival revived. The shoes
here could be from Prada's 'Geek Chic' 1996 collection, in trademark Prada 'off-colours' of mustard,
turquoise and mauve melange knit.

As with those mid-nineties collections, these shoes and socks are an obscure object of desire. They
are a reflection of the power of the Prada name to render something desirable - in the same way that
Miuccia Prada can slice a handbag from cheap transparent plastic, leave the edges of a gazar jacket
raw and unraveling, or embellish a cashmere coat with strips of photographic film like postmodern
pailettes. Prada's power is in questioning the true value of luxury and subjugating it to her aesthetic
whim. You pay for Prada - not for name or even for the garment, but for her faultless judgement of
contemporary taste.

• Socks

A/W 10 > Vivienne Westwood > Socks

• Video
• Text
• Credits

Pink jewelled socks with red and brown tassels by Vivienne Westwood MAN, to order at Vivienne
Westwood +4420 7439 1109
A/W 10 > Vivienne Westwood > Socks

• Video
• Text
• Credits
Pink jewelled socks with red and brown tassels by Vivienne Westwood MAN, to order at Vivienne
Westwood +4420 7439 1109

by Alex Fury

The concept most used and misused in

reference to Vivienne Westwood's
contribution to contemporary menswear is
the idea of the dandy. Charles Baudelaire
declared the dandy 'the Black Prince of
elegance' and to borrow from the
quintessential dandy Beau Brummell, if John
Bull turns to look in the street the dandy is
not well dressed. Westwood's menswear, on
the contrary, is a return to the look-at-me
idea of the male peacock evident throughout fashion until the early nineteenth-century, when
menswear - and men's flamboyance - was swallowed in a sea of blue and grey serge.

Born into the village of Glossop in the rural Pennines, since her childhood Vivienne Westwood has
been an adept craft knitter. She often hand-knitted her early samples herself, even extending this
practise of perfectionism and handicraft into her mid-nineties shows. These socks reflect that
complex technical knowledge, adorned with entirely knitted tassels and three-dimensional flower
nosegays, while the sequins and beads which embellish them are not only sewn on, but also knitted
into the fabric of the socks themselves.

The embroidery and colour that embellishes these socks is emblematic of the decoration Westwood
has brought to her male's wardrobe. But it is also indicative of the fact that Westwood, while pushing
the boundaries of elaboration in men's dress, has never lost a her sense of the masculine. These socks
are based on kilt-hose, vernacular Scottish attire traditionally worn with the kilt - and each detail on
them is taken from that distinctly masculine tradition. This is appropriate, as Westwood has long
been obsessed with the dress of the British Isles, naming not only a collection, but an entire line of
clothes 'Anglomania', a direct reference to the eighteenth-century French obsession with English
dress. The kilt has featured season in and season out in all Westwood's menswear collections since
the first shown on the Milan catwalk for S/S 1996.

Vivienne Westwood's menswear has always been an acquired taste - these socks are certainly no
exception. The reason they are interesting is that they manage to pull off the tricky fashion task of
being outrageously flamboyant while remaining virile and manly. Vivienne Westwood is a
heterosexual female designer in an industry dominated by the homosexual male, and her work with
 her husband Andreas Kronthaler demonstrates a delicate view of masculinity, although extrovert,
that never falls into camp excess or pantomime - a balance very few designers can achieve.

During the summer of 2009, SHOWstudio.com invited viewers worldwide to collaborate with
Nick Knight, Alexander McQueen and PUMA in a unique competition designed to push the
boundaries of filmmaking and fashion imagery creation to the very limit.
Our Raw Power competition offered young filmmakers, artists and directors the chance to
create a video short by splicing their own unique film material with footage captured during
Nick Knight's 'Crane Vs. Tiger' shoot for the Alexander McQueen PUMA S/S 2010 campaign.
Sean Capone, the winning filmmaker chosen by Nick Knight and Alexander McQueen,
received the unique commission to direct the Alexander McQueen PUMA Spring/Summer
2010 art movie, showcased on SHOWstudio.com and visible in key fashion department
stores and boutiques worldwide.
View Sean Capone's winning Raw Power entry Tigersprung
Fashion and Textile Museum No redirects wanted!
Cloutier (style agency) No redirects wanted!
Duckie Brown No redirects wanted!
Diaper bag No redirects wanted!
Street fashion No redirects wanted!
Cruise collection No redirects wanted!
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Balizza No redirects wanted!
Accessories Council No redirects wanted!
Casual (subculture) Non-existing Existing redirects:
redirects: • Casual (72×) sv
• Casuals (58×) nl, sv
Sneaker collecting Non-existing Existing redirects:
redirects: • Sneaker (17×) pt
• Sneakerhead (10×) pt
Bespoke Non-existing Existing redirects:
redirects: • Haute couture (357×) fr
• Haute Couture (42×) fr
Dress for Success (book) No redirects wanted!
Prudence Millinery Non-existing Existing redirects:
redirects: • Prudence Millinery (11×)
fr
Lipstick Prophets No redirects wanted!
Baby Phat No redirects wanted!
 Rocawear No redirects wanted!
List of New Romantics No redirects wanted!
International Best Dressed List No redirects wanted!
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Extè No redirects wanted!
Fast fashion Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• Fast fashion (18×) pt
Hemline index No redirects wanted!
Swishing No redirects wanted!
L.e.i. (clothing company) No redirects wanted!
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Sequin Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• (1×) es • Paillette (4×) de
English Medieval fashion No redirects wanted!
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Alter és Kiss No redirects wanted!
ChenOne No redirects wanted!
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Shanghai International Fashion Culture
No redirects wanted!
Festival
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• Costume jewelry (70×) it
• Bijouterie (4×) es
Sean John Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• Sean John (109×) de, ja
Lindsay Campbell (fashion stylist) No redirects wanted!
Recessionista No redirects wanted!
Polaroid Eyewear No redirects wanted!
Supermodel Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• Supermodelo (71×) pt
• Top model (5×) it
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Capsule wardrobe No redirects wanted!
Pretty Ballerinas No redirects wanted!
C&M Media No redirects wanted!
Sustainable fashion Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• (1×) de
• (1×) de
Pidge scarf No redirects wanted!
Mod (subculture) Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• Mod (52×) it, pt
• Modernists (38×) de
• Mods (3×) de, fr, nl, pl, sv
English Retreads No redirects wanted!
Political t-shirt No redirects wanted!
Gabriela Banová No redirects wanted!
Hip and buttock padding No redirects wanted!
Couturier No redirects wanted!
Calceology No redirects wanted!
Anotah No redirects wanted!
Hélène de Saint Lager Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• Hélène de Saint Lagerfr (2×)
List of fashion topics No redirects wanted!
Fashion law No redirects wanted!
Political uniform No redirects wanted!
JSNL No redirects wanted!
Philosophy of futility No redirects wanted!
Armedangels No redirects wanted!
David D. Doniger & Company No redirects wanted!
Kokoshnik No redirects wanted!
Fashion Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• Mode (103×) de, nl, sv
• Moda (12×) es, it, pt
• Modelli (7×) it
Boyar hat No redirects wanted!
Modelnomics No redirects wanted!
Fantasy hair styling No redirects wanted!
Glamour (presentation) Non-existing redirects: Existing redirects:
• Glamour (48×) de, es, sv
• Glamor (4×) es
History of fashion design No redirects wanted!
CozyCot No redirects wanted!
All done!

leaving seoul 1
37 views - 2 years ago
7yvJIyg3cGM
LMiFGmeKtqY

0:30
Etude Vitcara mascara
241 views - 2 years ago
LMiFGmeKtqY
HK91wNZW0Pc

0:31
Hot choco Mitte Ver. 3
132 views - 2 years ago
HK91wNZW0Pc
klb-s7FaqaM

0:39
i 30
218 views - 2 years ago
klb-s7FaqaM
Z-IKUNGww1A

0:30
SKY Shooting Star
1,069 views - 2 years ago
Z-IKUNGww1A
jfqCkiddiBQ

0:14
french cafe
91 views - 2 years ago
jfqCkiddiBQ
XooZP1IVKls

6:06
laneige makeup stand - full story
297 views - 2 years ago
XooZP1IVKls
4JlsCUKQGCc

0:20
laneige makeup stand ll
268 views - 2 years ago
4JlsCUKQGCc
VS7ev3HcLwA

0:29
anycall [train]
132 views - 2 years ago
VS7ev3HcLwA
xjtsWQfdMVg

0:20
skinfood tomato whitning
733 views - 2 years ago
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BXojQ7Ykhm8

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laneige makeup stand
347 views - 2 years ago
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BhilnipfTEQ

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sky magic keypad
311 views - 3 years ago
BhilnipfTEQ
87I1_TWG2gM

0:20
innisfree
59 views - 3 years ago
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HtaeZb0fcMo
 0:15
samsung anycall miniskirt
2,022 views - 3 years ago
HtaeZb0fcMo
xc7LpJafpog

0:14
paris baguette
871 views - 3 years ago
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aj4BYShrOBw

3:58
i'll remember by yi sung yol
241 views - 3 years ago
aj4BYShrOBw
ozxhrS6Gp3c

0:19
KTF show [restaurant]
2,688 views - 3 years ago
ozxhrS6Gp3c
LC9UDUM8Tvo

0:01
2% water - #2
250 views - 3 years ago
LC9UDUM8Tvo
maaLl1I14W0
 0:15
2% water - #1
304 views - 3 years ago
maaLl1I14W0
kKXC177FdW0

5:06
living the goodbye by lynn
51 views - 3 years ago
kKXC177FdW0
ighqQnl28zU

5:40
strawman by kim kun-mo
2,482 views - 3 years ago
ighqQnl28zU
xLLmB--uzHY

4:47

thanks by kim dong-ryul

Blog (3665)

www.showstudio.com/blog

John Galliano's Fashion Fringe Finalists!

By Alex Fury, 17:19 Sat 05 Jun 2010

As precursor to the announcement of the three Fashion Fringe finalists, last night a rather
stellar fashion foursome of John Galliano, Lady Amanda Harlech, Colin McDowell and our
own Nick Knight sat down to discuss all matters sartorial. The broad basis for this in
conversation was 'Commerce and Creativity: can... [more]
Comment | Permalink

LIVE STUDIOThe Finale

By SHOWstudio Shop, 18:10 Fri 04 Jun 2010

The finale of the finished pieces has arrived! Over four consecutive days, we’ve witnessed
Ed, Audrey, Koh and Taku vehemently toil through cutting, sanding, gluing, sawing,
measuring and dying to create a selection of astonishing leather pieces. In the making of
these pieces, Ed has employed many traditional techniques, however,... [more]
Comments (1) | Permalink | View this project >

LIVE STUDIODyeing the Leather

By SHOWstudio Shop, 17:20 Fri 04 Jun 2010

Dying and Sanding

Things are progressing at a fast pace here and now the majority of pieces are ready to be
dyed. Ed and the team are using Fiebings Leather Dye to saturate the blocks with colour. Ed
explains that, much like with wood, when you wet leather, the softer parts of the... [more]
Comment | Permalink | View this project >
View all Blog Entries >

>Current (13)

www.showstudio.com/current

RAW POWER

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN/NICK KNIGHT

◦ WINNER Last updated Thu, May 20
◦ CONTRIBUTORS Last updated Wed, Jan 27
◦ FILM Last updated Fri, Jul 17
◦ DOWNLOAD FOOTAGE Last updated Fri, Jul 17
◦ CREDITS Last updated Fri, Jul 17
◦ BLOG Last updated Fri, Jul 10
◦ SUBMISSIONS GALLERY Last updated Fri, Jul 3
Save as favourite | View this project >

Top Shop Kate Moss 2010

KATE MOSS / NICK KNIGHT

◦ BLOG Last updated Tue, May 18
◦ FILM Last updated Tue, May 18
◦ CREDITS Last updated Tue, May 18
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IN CAMERA: LADY GAGA

 ◦ BLOG Last updated Fri, May 14
◦ LIVE BROADCAST Last updated Fri, May 14
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MIRROR MIRROR

◦ Gallery Last updated Wed, May 5

◦ Credits Last updated Thu, Apr 29
◦ Schedule Last updated Thu, Apr 29
◦ BLOG Last updated Thu, Apr 29
Related Projects: [Interactive] [Installation] [topshop] [participate]
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OBJECT FETISH

◦ BLOG Last updated Wed, Apr 28

◦ FILMS Last updated
◦ ANALYSIS Last updated
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IN FASHION

MARY KATRANTZOU / LIBERTY ROSS / MARIAN NEWMAN / SIMON FOXTON

/ STUART VEVERS / SØLVE SUNDSBØ / RICHARD NICOLL / MANDI
LENNARD / MARIOS SCHWAB / TIM WALKER
◦ CONTRIBUTORS Last updated Wed, Jan 27
◦ FILMS Last updated Fri, Aug 14
Save as favourite | View this project >
•

LIVE STUDIO

• Grid
• Designers
• Seasons

• Box
Maison Martin Margiela

• Necklace
Yves Saint Laurent

• Necklace
Mary Katrantzou
• Shoes
Loewe

• Shoes, Socks
Prada

• Socks