ELECTRIC BENDING IRON

This is intended as a short pictorial essay on the

construction of an electrical side bending iron. As the
items used may vary from the ones shown here, only limited
dimensions are used.
This device is primarily used for bending the wood sides of
musical instruments. Other uses may be appropriate, but are
not specifically covered here.

Warning – This project uses components that generate

freakishly large quantities of heat, and is powered by 120
volt AC current. If you are not comfortable
comfortable working with
potentially dangerous circuits, this may not be the project
for you. Due to the nature of the high heat that this
project generates, it may not be possible to prevent access
to dangerous areas where exposed wiring might be contacted.
contacted.
If you choose to build this bender, the responsibility for
safe construction and usage is YOURS. Neither the author
nor the site where you obtained this outline accept any
liability for anything unfortunate that may occur. NEVER
LEAVE THIS DEVICE UNATTENDED
UNATTENDED WHILE PLUGGED IN AND ACTIVE.
A Rough List of items used:

1 - halogen lamp socket

1 - bulb to fit halogen lamp socket (300 Watt)
A 500 watt bulb may be used, but must be used at a
lower setting once the desired heat is reached to
prevent overheating.

1 - 2” NPT pipe flange

1 – 10” – 12” length Rigid Aluminum Electrical Conduit

(one end needs to be threaded to engage flange)

1 – 600 Watt dimmer switch

1 – wiring box to house dimmer switch

1 – 3-conductor electrical cord, 6’, min. 16 gauge wire,

with a molded 3 prong standard plug

A section of heavy gauge steel strap (10 gauge), ½” wide X

approximately 15” long (for socket carrier)

Plywood to bolt flange to

Section of 2X4 lumber – at least as wide as the plywood

High-
High-Temperature Electrical Wire – NOT PLASTIC COATED!
Due to the high heat generated by the halogen bulb, the
insulation of the electrical wiring MUST be rated for
temperatures in excess of 400 degrees Celsius.

Un-
Un-insulated crimp terminals for the High-
High-Temperature wire
(no plastic used in the hot zone)

Whatever fasteners are necessary to hold everything

together

Scrap steel sheet metal for heat shielding

Twist-on electrical connectors suitable for 16-gauge wire

WIRING DIAGRAM

Hot Wire (Blk) Dimmer Hot Wire (Blk)

LINE LOAD

< To plug

Neut. Wire (Wht) Ground (Grn)

LINE GND

Toward front >

Halogen Bulb

Socket

Steel Strap

The wires shown in orange should be the high temperature

wire. Any wiring that will be inside the heat chamber (the
aluminum conduit) MUST BE THE HIGH-TEMP WIRE.
The dimmer switches will typically have short pre-wired
pigtails on them. Connect the high-temperature wire and the
3-conductor cable to these pigtails with twist-on wiring
connectors (inside the mounting box, away from the heat
chamber).

The ground connection to the steel strap, and the

connections made to the halogen socket, should be made with
the un-insulated crimp-on lugs. Ring-type terminal lugs are
preferred over fork-type lugs.
 CONSTRUCTION

Make a hole toward the center of the plywood piece as big

as the hole in the center of the flange to pass the heating
assembly through. Center the flange on this hole, and
fasten it to the plywood with wood screws. Polish and clean
the section of aluminum conduit, and thread it snugly into
the flange. The 2X4 block is fastened SECURELY below the
flange (on the back side) as a place to fasten or clamp the
bending iron to a bench top.

Heat shield removed to show

Bracket construction. Do not
Operate without heat shield.

Mount steel heat shield here to

protect wire from socket front.

This is the basic layout of the heating element mounted to

the heavy gauge steel strap. The wire bolted to the strap
at the left side of the picture is a safety ground wire.
DO NOT OMIT THIS WIRE! Make sure it is fastened tightly to
the steel strap. If something goes wrong, this may be the
only thing that keeps you from being electrocuted.

Fabricate a steel heat shield 1-1/4” to 1-1/2” wide and as

long as the halogen bulb, and mount at the location shown
on the above picture (under the bulb). This will help
shield the forward wire from the intense heat of the
halogen bulb. DO NOT OPERATE THE BENDER WITHOUT THIS HEAT
SHIELD!
Mount the halogen socket about 1” back from the front of
the steel strap. Fasten securely with machine screws and
nuts.

Attach the high-temperature wire to the halogen socket

(both ends) and the steel strap.

The entire assembly is inserted from the back of the

bending iron (through the hole bored through the plywood
panel) into the aluminum conduit. A small tab bent down at
the front of the strap engages a notch cut into the front
of the conduit. The strap is bent down at the back end for
a tight fit in the conduit, and is fastened to the plywood
with a small wood screw.

TAB DETAIL (FRONT OF CONDUIT)

Complete the wiring to the dimmer switch inside the

electrical mounting box. Use twist-on connectors to attach
the high-temperature wire and the plug cable to the dimmer
switch (see wiring diagram). The electrical mounting box
should be grounded to the rest of the components.
 TESTING

When the socket is wired and mounted to the steel strap,

and the sheet steel heat shield is mounted in place, the
halogen bulb can be placed in the socket. Do not handle the
bulb with your bare fingers – oil from your skin will leave
a spot on the bulb that will cause localized heating
internal to the bulb, and will prematurely shorten its
life. When the bulb is in place, mount the strap assembly
in the conduit, making sure the forward wire is running
underneath the heat shield. With the wiring completed and
all the components securely mounted, the unit can now be
tested. Turn down the dimmer switch to the ‘OFF’ position,
plug the cord into a 3-prong (grounded) outlet, and turn it
on. Slowly increase the dimmer setting until you observe
the bulb glowing inside the tube. Continue increasing the
dimmer until the setting is at maximum. The aluminum
conduit will rapidly heat up at the full setting, and will
retain heat for some time, so use extreme caution around
the tube area. NEVER LEAVE THE BENDER UNATTENDED WHILE IT
IS PLUGGED IN AND ACTIVE!

As the tube heats up, there may be some initial smoke from
the residue on the conduit or the socket, but this should
dissipate fairly quickly. If you notice a great deal of
smoke, visible flame, electric arcing, smell melting
plastic, or observe anything that seems wrong, unplug the
unit immediately. Do not use it again until the problem can
be identified and properly remedied.

To keep the heat in the forward section of the tube, a

small sheet metal guard can be mounted over the hole in the
rear of the plywood. Take care that no sharp edges cut into
or rub on the wiring.
Once the bender has reached operating temperature (a water
drop on the surface of the tube will sizzle and turn to
steam instantly), reduce the setting to maintain just the
heat needed to bend the samples you are using. This will
take some experimentation to get the exact results desired.
Make test bends on samples of the same thickness and
species of wood before attempting bends on your intended
finished parts.

A temperature probe, such as that found on a barbeque

grill, or a non-contact infrared thermometer, can be used
to gauge when the bending iron is ready, or to adjust the
heat for more repeatable results.
As different species of wood respond differently when
bending, it is best to consult with sources most familiar
with a given wood for information regarding how best to
proceed.
 REALLY IMPORTANT NOTES ON SAFETY

As has been stated before, this device employs dangerous

levels of heat and electricity, and should be treated with
extreme caution and respect. No tool is worth risking your
life or health for, so if you are in any way uncomfortable
about the procedures shown in this document, do not attempt
construction of this device.

The use of heavy leather welding-type gloves will further

reduce the risk of accidental contact burns or
electrocution.

As a further safety precaution, it is STRONGLY recommended

that a ground-fault safety circuit be used to power this
device. This can take the form of a ground-fault receptacle
mounted at the wall, or a ground-fault enabled extension
cord. This safety circuit will protect you from
electrocution in the event of a short-circuit wiring fault
in the bending iron – or any other electrical device, for
that matter.

Inspect the iron before use EVERY TIME for loose

connections.