The Structure of Modern Perfumes

Virtually all modern perfumes are constructed of chords – combinations of scents with
roughly the same volatility – that harmonize or create esthetically interesting discords.
Conventionally, these chord are divided into the low-volatility base note, high-volatility
top or head notes, and middle or heart notes of intermediate volatility.

Common Base notes

• Benzoin
• Blond tobacco
• Civet (synthetic, please)
• Labdanum
• Patchouli
• Vanilla absolute
• Vetiver
• Spruce absolute

And almost all the concretes

Common middle or Heart notes

• Clary Sage
• Rose Absolute
• Jasmine Absolute
• Geranium Absolute
• Ylang Ylang Absolute
• Tuberose Absolute
• Lavender Absolute
• Cinnamon
• Clove

Most non-citrus fruits

And almost all flower absolutes

Common Top notes

• Bergamot Oil
• Grapefruit Oil
• Lemon Oil
• Orange Oil
• Cedar Oil
• Fir Oil
• Rosewood Oil
• Black pepper Oil (sparingly)
• Coriander Oil
• Nutmeg Oil
• Lavender Oil

All the citruses

All the “piney” wood oils
Most of the flower oils
 Major Perfume Families

• Aldehydic. Built around synthetic aldehydes, the first and most famous is Chanel no 5.
Aldehydes have typified many French fragrances with strong top notes & a sparkling quality.
Examples include Lanvin's Arpege, Mme Rochas, Je Reviens by Worth, Rive Gauche by
Yves Saint Laurent, and L'Interdit by Givenchy.
• Floral. These scents include perfumes built around the cent of a single flower, such as Serge
Lutens' Sa Majeste La Rose, and floural bouquet fragrances, such as Attar Majmua. Hybrid
florals include the sharper green florals, like Vent Vert by Balmain, Fidji by Guy Laroche, Givenchy III, Ivoire by
Balmain and Gio by Armani; fruity florals such as Calyx by Prescriptives, Sunflowers by Elizabeth Arden,
Diamonds and Sapphires by Elizabeth Taylor, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Escape by Calvin Klein; oceanic or fresh
florals like Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel, Flore by Caroline Herrera, and Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake; woody florals
like Chanel No 19, Safari by Ralph Lauren, and White Linen by Estee Lauder, and sweet florals like Blue Grass
by Elizabeth Arden, Gardenia Passion by Annick Goutal, Eau Cuivree by Montana.
• Oriental or Amber. Deep, rich, heavy, sweet; typically built around some combination of
sandlewood, musk, vanilla or tonka bean and labdanum. Typically evening wear. Classics
are Shalimar, Samsara by Guerlain, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, and Youth Dew by Estee
Lauder. Hybrids include the lighter florientals, such as Panthere by Cartier, Poison by Dior, and Spellbound by
Estee Lauder; Spicy Orientals, such as Comme des Garcons, Angel by Thierry Mugler, Feminite du Bois by
Shiseido, and Old Spice; Animal Orientals like Obsession by Calvin Klein, and Egoiste by Chanel.
• Woody. Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of agarwood, sandalwood,
cedar, or rosewood. Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these
perfumes. Traditional examples include Myrurgia's Maderas De Oriente and Chanel Bois-
des-Îles; a more modern example would be Balenciaga Rumba.
• Leather. A family of fragrances which features the scents of honey, tobacco, wood and wood
tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather.
• Chypres (cypress) perfumes are built around a core of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and
labdanum; named after the original Chypres by François Coty. Typically strong, spicy and
powdery. Hybrids include animal chypres, such as Cabochard by Madame Gres, Cuir de Russie by Chanel,
Scandal by Lanvin, Jolie Madame by Balmain, Polo by Ralph Lauren and Insense by Givenchy; Floral Chypres
like Crepe de Chine by Millot, Ma Griffe by Carven, Montana, Knowing by Estee Lauder; Fruity Chypres such as
Mitsouko by Guerlain, Femme by Rochas, Champagne by Yves Saint Laurent; sweet chypres like Shocking by
Schiaparelli, Intimate by Revlon, Aromatics Elixir by Clinique; fresh or oceanic chypres perfumes include
Diorella by Dior, Eau Parfumee by Bulgari, CK1 By Calvin Klein, Eau Sauvage by Dior, Fahrenheit by Dior; and
green chypres like Charlie by Revlon, Alliage by Estee Lauder, Boucheron Pour Homme.
• Green. A lighter and more modern interpretation of the Chypre type, with cut grass, crushed
green leaf and cucumber-like scents. Examples include Estée Lauder's Aliage or Sisley's Eau
de Campagne.
• Fougere (Fern). Although ferns have no noticeable scent, this family of herbaceous, woody
fragrences is built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss, pioneered by Houbigant's
Fougère Royale. It includes many men's fragrances, such as Fabergé Brut and Guy Laroche’s
Drakkar Noir. Hybirid fougeres fragrances include floral fougeres like Canoe by Dana, Wrappings by
Clinique, Parfum d'Ete by Kenzo and Givenchy III; leather fougeres such as Minotaure by Paloma Picasso, Brut
by Faberge, Tabac Blond by Caron; woody fougeres like Tuscany by Aramis, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, and
Dunhill Edition; spicy fougeres like Alliage by Estee Lauder, Jules by Dior, and Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent;
fresh, oceanic or citrus fougeres like Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal, O de Lancome, and English Lavender by
Yardley; and green fougeres such as Cool Water by Davidoff.
• Oceanic or Fresh. The newest category in perfume history, appearing in 1991 with Christian
Dior's Dune. A very clean, modern androgynous smell built around synthetics originally
developed to scent laundry detergents, air fresheners and the like. Generally contains calone,
 a synthetic scent discovered in 1966. Examples include New West by Aramis, Dune by Dior, Eden by
Cacherel and Escape by Calvin Klein.
• Fruity. Featuring the aromas of fruits other than citrus, such as peach, cassis (black currant),
mango, passion fruit, and others. Ginestet’s Botrytis is a modern example.
http://greenweightlosstea.com/weight-loss-tea-studies.html
http://www.jacn.org/cgi/content/abstract/29/1/31

CONNIE WISESAN show details 12/6/09

WELCOME!
Location Address (Our Home)
917 Meadowvale Court
Martinez, CA 94553

Thank you for joining us for the

December 13 Sacred Connections one day event
starting at 1:00!

We are so happy to include you in the group and are looking forward to a beautiful and meaningful
time together! We have lots of fun, planned so please arrive early -- we will need time to get settled.

1:00 registration, settling and smoozing,

2:00 welcoming circles
3:00 calling in spirit and introduction.

Cozy up to our heart fire...

Come bask in the warmth of each other...
Igniting the inner flame

We are still calling in the following assistance:

1.) Help setting up... come join the pre-event fun
2.) Someone/s to call in spirit in thier own magnigicent tradition
3.) leadership support for the juicing experience later in the day

Please remember to bring your backjacks, a favorite potluck dish to share, towel for the hot tub and
your beautiful open hearts.

Below you will find the directions.

Please keep in mind this is a family neighborhood in your coming and goings....
we would like to live here in harmony for a very long time.

We look forward to engaging in a wonderful and sacred day together! Thank you for being in our
lives!

lovingly, connie and brian, and more

P.S. and if for some reason you are unable to make it... please let me know asap..
conniewisesan@sbcglobal.net

Directions to 917 Meadowvale Court, Martinez, Ca

Connie's phone: 510-557-4981
From Berkley/Richmond area:
Hwy 4 east toward Stocton
Exit Morello Ave
Right on Morello Ave
Left on Center
Right on Meadowvale Court......
917 Meadowvale Court (up the hill on the Right side)

From Walnut Creek area:

Hwy 680 towards Martinez
Hwy 4 west towards Richmond
Exit Morello Ave
Left under the freeway
Left on Center
Right on Meadowvale Court.....
917 Meadowvale Court (up the hill on the Right side)

Connie Wisesan
510-557-4981
www.healingyoursoul.us

IMPORTANT if you tried to register for the Perfume Workshop this Sunday . . .

Dear folks – I have been having some strange email glitches and I have reason to believe
that I have not been getting all my email from people on the SC list. As of this moment, I
have the following people registered for the perfume workshop this Sunday from 11AM
to 1PM:
1. Anith
2. Cindi C.
3. Winthrop W.
4. Erika
5. L. Starbird

If you are on this list, you should now have received a confirmation email from me.
If you tried to register and are not on this list, or you are on this list, but have not received
a confirmation email, please contact me immediately at ahoerner@rprogress.org or call
my cell: 510 507-4820.

Bright Blessings,
Andrew
liz caulkins foxygoddess123@hotmail.com dateTue, Jan 11, 2011 at 8:12 PM
Hi Andrew - I am brining a guest, I hope, to this event, and she is interested in taking
your workshop. Can you put her on your list. If for some strange reason memteam says
she cannot attend, I'll let you know and you can fill her space. I hope there is space still
for her. Her name is Laura Starbird.

Anith <anith@cruzio.com> dateTue, Jan 11, 2011 at 1:10 AM

Cindi Cossen <ccossen@gmail.com>
Winthrop T Williams <winthrop@berkeley.edu>
Winthrop Williams and I would love to participate in you perfume workshop if there is
still space. Please let us know if there is space and what we need to bring . What kind
and size of bottles.
Thanks for offering this. Love, Cindi Cossen
Erika <luverika@gmail.com>

Dear folks –

I want to apologize in being so slow in responding to registration inquiries. I have had a

strange email glitch that has been eating a subset of SC-list mail, so I never got (and still
do not have) a copy of either the general event announcement or the final text of the
perfume event description, and so I was missing some very basic information that had not
yet been finalized when I wrote the description, such as the time it starts. I did not have
much luck reaching the organizers by email either, but I finally got through to Connie
today by phone, and she gave me the essential information.

So, welcome! This is to tell you that you are registered for a slot in the perfume-blending
workshop this coming Sunday, February 13, at Art’s Barn. We will be in the room off of
the hot tub. We will start at 11:00 AM, and finish at 1:00PM, to allow for time to shower
between the workshop and the main event.

We need to honor concerns about sensitivity to scents and perfumes, so we will be taking
several steps to keep the scents we create out of the Sacred Connections event proper.
Please be prepared to change clothes and shower before the event, and please leave your
towels and the clothes you wear to the workshop in the workshop room.

I will provide access to over 100 oils, absolutes and concretes, some blending tools, and a
supply of perfumer’ alcohol, and a small vial for each attendee for their final product.
I’ve also been writing some handouts that I think will be useful, and everyone will get
copies.

This is a hobby for me, and a labor of pleasure and of love. I am not an expert, and I can
not make you one, so please lower your expectations accordingly. There is no fixed fee,
but I am requesting a voluntary donation from each attendee to help pay for my cost of
supplies. This is not mandatory, but the materials I will be providing cost me about $20
per person. Pay what feels right to you.
Please bring the following:
1. A change of clothes
2. An extra towel
3. A bag for your change of clothes and extra towel
4. Three (or more) small bottle or jars with tightly-fitting lids.

And if is receiving anyone receiving this email by mistake, or can not now make it,
please do let me know by email not later than Saturday evening.

I’m looking forward to seeing each of you!

Peace, joy, love and pleasure to you,

Andrew

P.S. If any of you have a copy of the event announcement, and the perfume workshop
announcement if it is separate, readily to hand, I would appreciate it if you would forward
me a copy.

This workshop is brought to you by

Academe Ekstasis
is a vision, an esthetic and a way of being.
Plato tutored Aristotle in original Grove of
Academe, founding the Western tradition of
communities of scholarship.
Academe Ekstasis
is such a community, a hidden fellowship of
those whose quest for knowledge follows the
path of Ekstasis, Ecstasy, in the Greek sense
which includes the ecstasy of terror, beauty,
astonishment, lust, rage, awe, mystic union,
intoxication and love.

All acts of Love and Pleasure are Her rituals.