My Metal-spinning Lathe
A Home Workshop Guide
Last Updated: 13 February, 2002
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Design Considerations
Obviously some of the design
constraints and parameters were set
by the parts I was re-using from the
drill press. This did introduce some
less than optimal limitations -- such
as the use of 19mm bearings,
meaning that the mains-shaft of the
lathe was also limited to 19mm in
diameter. If this turns out to be too
weak I'll just go buy some bigger
bearings and make a new shaft.
There are no castings -- it's just cut to size and bolted together.
The main spindle and the backplate were turned from 1214 free-machining steel which is much nicer to
work with than plain old 1020. The chips from 1214 are small and blunt and -- unlike the razor sharp
shards that come off 1020 when it's milled or turned. If you're planning to turn anything out of steel, do
yourself a favor and get some free-machining stock such as 1214 or 12L14.
www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/spinning1.shtml 1/7
General Layout
Let me say right now that building a wood lathe or metal-spinning lathe is a whole lot easier than
building a metal-turning lathe.
Unlike a metal-turning lathe, these machines don't have a cross-slide or compound, so they don't need
accurately ground ways and all the extra parts and machining that such pieces entail.
In effect, these lathes consist of little more than a headstock and a place to rest your tools.
The Headstock
I decided to start with the headstock and designed it so
that the center of the backplate would sit 180mm (7
inches) above the lathe-bed. This provides enough
clearance to spin a disk of metal 14 inches in diameter --
plenty large nough for my purposes and probably more
than the little 1/2HP motor is capable handling.
www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/spinning1.shtml 2/7
The Main-shaft
The lathe shaft was turned from 1214 mild steel and it required some careful attention to accuracy in
several places.
Of course the parts of the shaft where the bearings sit also had to be machined for a close interference
fit so that the shaft doesn't spin inside the bearing.
Finally, the end of the shaft to which the backplate is attached also needed a close interference fit so
that it didn't have room to wobble or slip. I was thinking of turning a taper here to ensure good centering
and maximum grip -- but I decided to try a straight shaft first and see how that turned out.
The Backplate
With a metal-spinning lathe there is no need for a
chuck. Instead of gripping the work as you would
on a metal lathe, the work is actually clamped
between a specially turned form and a live-center
on the tailstock.
To make it easier to center the form on the backplate, I turned a number of concentric rings into the
face of the backplate.
The backplate is retained on the main shaft by an 8mm high-tensile bolt that screws into a matching
thread in the end of the shaft.
One of the nicest things about making this part was that I had to turn it in two operations on the 7x10.
The jaws in my 4" 4-jaw chuck had to be reversed to hold it and then, having turned one face and half
the edge, I had to remount it and set the runout to zero. Any axial run-out would have manifested itself
as a discontinuity or lip along the edge of the backplate where the two machining operations didn't line
up.
www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/spinning1.shtml 3/7
The Bed
One of the nice things about wood and metal-spinning lathes is that the bed exists only to provide
support for the headstock, tailstock and toolrest.
There's no need for precision ground and hardened ways to guide a saddle and cross-slide -- it's all
pretty basic stuff.
Since the tooling on these lathes is hand-held, there's no need for absolute rigidity in the lathe bed
either -- so I just used 25mm (1") square section laid out into a rectangle.
The Tailstock
The job of the tailstock is to apply the clamping pressure that holds the
metal disk (which is to be spun into the final shape) firmly against the
face of the form.
Milling these slots was a good test of the RF30's ability to put its 2HP
motor to work. I used a 16mm 4-flute cobalt end-mill running at around
500 RPMs to move the metal.
I took off 2mm at a time and, although there was some vibration (as
you'd expect), it breezed through without any problems.
I'm pleased to say that the tailstock base was a perfect fit on the bed -- and
moves smoothly enough and with so little slop that it would indeed be a nice
setup for a saddle on a conventional-type lathe. In fact, based on my Lathe M achines
experiences with this little lathe, I'd say that it would be quite practical to build
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The tailstock vertical is another piece of (you guessed it) 25mm x 50mm (1"x2")
Order Online
CRS.
Now!
www.BoltonHardware.com/LatheMachine
At the top of the tailstock is the adjustment screw and live-center needed to
provide the clamping force.
Because the alignment of the tailstock is critical to accurate work-holding, the decision was made to
use an adjustable mounting system for affixing the vertical to the tailstock cross-member.
This was done by mounting the vertical to a smaller cross-piece that is in turn bolted to the main
cross-member. The height can now be adjusted by shimming, the angle and horizontal alignment can
be set by loosening the mounting screws, moving and retightening.
www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/spinning1.shtml 4/7
The static side was machined from 6061 aluminum and screws onto the end of the 10mm bolt which
passes through the tailstock. It also holds the bearing.
The rotating part of the live-center is also turned from 6061 and is designed to be easily changed. I
wanted to be able to use different sized centers for different sized forms.
The Toolrest
As mentioned above, the tooling for spinning or
wood-turning is hand-held -- so this requires the
addition of a toolrest.
I was going to just weld up a motor mount -- but ended up doing things the hard way and milling up a
little mounting block that is in turn bolted to a mounting plate that is (in turn) bolted to the lathe bed. I
could have made this thing in about half the time if I'd welded instead of bolting everything.
The motor is a 1/2 HP unit and speed is changed simply by moving the belt to the required grooves on
the pulleys. I'm probably breaking about a million different laws by not having a cover over the pulley --
but that's another project. If I'm brave/stupid enough to attack a rapidly spinning disk of stainless steel
with a metal bar while the whole lot spins around at several thousand RPMs then a little old pulley isn't
my biggest worry ;-)
Unfortunately the belt that came as standard is a piece of crap and seems to have been spliced in
about four places. This makes it alternately stiff and flexible -- something that causes vibration. I'll
replace it shortly with a decent quality belt.
Do Yourself A Favor!
Just a word of warning -- this project involves cutting a hell of a lot of CRS. If you don't have a bandsaw
or power hacksaw before you start a project like this then you will live to regret it.
I'm still nursing a sore shoulder from all that manual hacksawing.
And... if you're a masochist like I am -- have a good supply of nice, sharp 18 tpi blades on hand. Don't
be miserly -- cutting steel with a blunt blade is a dumb thing to do -- it wastes time and invites poor
results.
And don't think you're going to be able to move even a little lathe like this around too easily. It's
actually heavier than my 7x10 metal-turning lathe!
I've already started spinning up some aluminum and stainless using this lathe and although I'm pretty
low on the learning curve, it does the job just fine and it's already become an indispensible part of my
workshop.
There aren't a lot of good tutorials or metal spinning info sites on the Web so I'm hoping I can perhaps
create some interest.
Until I get these pages up, those interested in spinning might want to check out this guide (PDF file)
which has some great stuff.
Meanwhile -- here are some of the intake venturis I've been spinning for my pulsejet engines.
www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/spinning1.shtml 6/7
These were spun from 1.2mm 1100 alloy aluminum which was anealed by heating and quenching prior
to use -- because the local merchant couldn't supply in anything other than H12 temper.
In order to spin a shape like this which would otherwise get "stuck" on the form, it's necessary to make
the form so that it can be broken into two parts for extraction purposes.
Home | Proj ect Diary | My Tools | Contact Me | Links | My Gas Turbine Proj ect | The Afterburner
Turboshaft Engine | Jet-kart | Pulsej et-pow ered Kart | Kitsets | Troubleshooting pulsej ets
Valv eless Pulsej ets | Ramj ets Explained | 100lbs-thrust pulsej et | Turbo-turbine FAQ
Chrysler's Turbine-cars | How Pulsej ets Work | Flying Platform | Metal Spinning | My Lockw ood engine
Starting a pulsej et | Making Reed-v alv es Last | Pulsej et-pow ered speedboat | The PDE
Thrust Augmentors List of Sponsors | Master Site Index | The Pulsej et FAQ | DIY Cruise Missile
www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/spinning1.shtml 7/7