RATING INNOVATIVE CHEF’S KNIVES
RECOMMENDED
RATINGS
GOOD: ★★★
FAIR: ★★
POOR: ★
We tested nine chef’s knives by
butchering whole chickens, chop-
ping butternut squash, mincing
parsley, and dicing onions. We
also evaluated their comfort
and user-friendliness based
on feedback from a variety of
testers: right- and left-handed
cooks; skilled professionals and
untrained home cooks; cooks
with small hands and cooks with
large hands. We rated sharpness
and edge retention by cutting
ordinary sheets of 81⁄2 by 11-inch
paper before and after kitchen
tests. Knives are listed in order
of preference. See page 32 for
sources.
HANDLE: Knives that were
comfortable, fit securely, and
resisted slipping in wet or greasy
hands were preferred.
BLADE: Sharp, agile blades with
sufficient curvature were preferred.
KITCHEN TESTS: We cut up
whole chickens, chopped but-
ternut squash, minced parsley,
and diced onions. Knives were
assigned a score for each task,
which were averaged to get the
overall rating.
EDGE RETENTION: Knives that
maintained a sharp edge after test-
ing was completed were preferred.
TESTERS’ COMMENTS:
General observations, includ-
ing comfort, balance, perceived
solidity and construction quality,
and promotion of hand fatigue.
PERFORMANCE TESTERS’ COMMENTS
BEST VALUE HANDLE: ★★★ “There’s a reason we have 20 or 30 of these in
BLADE: ★★★ this kitchen,” said a tester; others agreed, calling
Victorinox Fibrox 8-Inch Chef’s Knife ★★★
$22.95
K I TCH E N T E STS : it “Old Faithful.” They found it notably sharp, with
PRICE:
EDGE RETENTION: ★★★ “great maneuverability.” In sum: “This is exactly
what a knife is supposed to be.”
Glestain Indented-Blade 8.2-Inch HANDLE: ★★★ Testers appreciated the thin blade’s razor-
Gyutou (Chef’s Knife) BLADE: ★★★ sharpness and an enhanced feeling of control.
K I TCH E N T E STS : ★★★ “Effortless cutting—the food jumps away,”
PRICE: $210
Double row of granton-style
I N N OVAT I O N :
EDGE RETENTION: ★★★ remarked one tester. The double row of hollows
oval hollows on one side of blade to minimize worked, with squash and potato slices falling
cleanly from the blade.
resistance between blade and food.
Kershaw Shun 8.25-Inch Ken HANDLE: ★★★ This “flashy-looking” knife won points for its
★★★ “extreme sharpness.” A pronounced curve
Onion Chef’s Knife BLADE:
PRICE: $193.95
K I TCH E N T E STS : ★★★ aided the rocking motion. Most testers found
EDGE RETENTION: ★★★ it “really comfy,” but tester with largest hands
I N N OVAT I O N :Damascus-look (wavy pattern
on metal) blade designed to reduce sticking complained about the “ergonomic bump” on the
handle. Food didn’t stick to the blade.
for faster prep time and less damage to food;
curved bolster for comfortable grip.
MAC Knives 8-Inch Chef’s Knife, HANDLE: ★★★ This “lightweight,” “sharp, thin” knife won raves
for its “surgical” ability to slice easily through
Superior BLADE: ★★★
K I TCH E N T E STS : ★★★ chicken bones and squash. Testers liked the
PRICE: $54.95
EDGE RETENTION: ★★★ “arced” handle, but there were a few complaints
Ergonomic wooden handle; thin
I N N OVAT I O N :
blade with rough strip along edge to release food; that the rounded tip made it harder to pierce
rounded tip, hole in blade for hanging. food. “A good all-around knife” at a reasonable
price.
★★ Some testers disliked the angled handle,
Kershaw Shun 8-Inch Alton’s Angle HANDLE:
BLADE: ★★★ complaining that it forced a more “exagger-
Chef’s Knife
K I TCH E N T E STS : ★★★ ated rocking,” while others liked the way it
PRICE: $130.95
Blade set at 10-degree angle to
I N N OVAT I O N :
EDGE RETENTION: ★★★ added leverage when cutting squash and bones.
Everyone agreed that the blade “cuts beautifully”
reduce contact between knuckles and cutting surface;
with “great control,” splitting hard squash “like
rippled metal blade to reduce sticking of food;
butter.”
D-shaped grip to prevent twisting in hand.
RECOMMENDED WIT H RESERVATIONS PERFORMANCE TESTERS’ COMMENTS
Sanelli 9.5-Inch Premana HANDLE: ★★★ Testers liked the slightly squishy handle, saying
Professional Cook’s Knife BLADE: ★★★ “it would be great if it were attached to one of
K I TCH E N T E STS : ★★ these fancy-pants blades.” The lightweight blade
PRICE: $33.92
Soft antislip ergonomic handle
I N N OVAT I O N :
EDGE RETENTION: ★★ did well with onions and parsley but on harder
offers support when cook must use force; tasks felt “cheap” and “cumbersome” and “had
trouble getting through bones.”
withstands sudden temperature change and is
nonabsorbent and dishwasher-safe.
Wüsthof Grand Prix II 8-Inch HANDLE: ★★ This update performed worse than its well-
Cook’s Knife BLADE: ★★★ regarded predecessor. The redesigned handle
K I TCH E N T E STS : ★★ became very slippery when hands were wet.
PRICE: $94.95 EDGE RETENTION: ★★★ “Looks more comfortable than it actually is,”
said one tester. Testers complained that “knife is
heavy” and “handle is too long.”
★★ According to one tester, this “heavier” knife
Furi 8-Inch Cook’s Knife with HANDLE:
BLADE: ★★★ “seems solid,” but “I really had to push through
Coppertail, FX Forged
K I TCH E N T E STS : ★★ the breast bone.” It made “precision cuts” while
PRICE: $94.95
Blade, handle, and tang fused into one
I N N OVAT I O N :
EDGE RETENTION: ★★★ dicing onion, but parsley seemed crushed.
Testers with larger hands liked the handle more
piece for added strength; wedge-shaped to keep hand
than did those with smaller hands, but all com-
from slipping forward; handle surface striated to pre-
plained about slipperiness when hands were wet
vent slippage; soft “coppertail” at end of handle can
or greasy.
be filed down to rebalance knife after years of use.
Chroma 8-Inch Chef’s Knife, HANDLE: ★★ Testers were surprised that the “weird-looking”
Type 301 BLADE: ★★★ triangular metal handle felt “bizarrely comfort-
K I TCH E N T E STS : ★★ able” in the palm, but all disliked the metal
PRICE: $81.95 EDGE RETENTION: ★★
Ergonomic knife designed by Porsche
I N N OVAT I O N :
“nub,” which “goes exactly where my thumb
(yes, the automaker); metal “pearl” at end of handle wants to go and puts pressure on it.” One said
for control when cutting; seamless construction. simply, “It hurts.” The knife was “very sharp.”
MARCH & APRIL 2007
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