Fibre

Although the word “Textile: was originally used to define a woven fabric and the processes
involved in weaving, over the years the term has taken on broad connotations, including the
following;
1. Staple fibres and filaments for use in yarns or preparations of woven, knitted, tufted,
or nonwoven fabrics,
2. Yarns made from natural or man-made fibres,
3. Fabrics and other products made from fibres or from yarns, and
4. Apparel or other articles fabricated from the above, which retain the flexibility and
drape of the original fabrics.
This broad definition will generally cover all the products produced by the textile industry
intended for intermediate or final products.

Textile fabrics are planar structures produced by interlacing or by entangling yarns or fibres
in some manner. In turn, textile yarns are continuous strands made up of textile fibres, and
the fibre is the basic physical structure or element which makes up textile products.
Fibres : A unit of matter characterized by flexibility, fineness and a high length to
width ratio
Staple fibre : A fibre of definite length (usually 10-500 mm)
Filament : A fibre of indefinite length
Microfibers : Microfibers are generally defined as fibers of less than one denier per
filament (dpf). Super-micro fibers are less than 0.3 dpf. Microfibers can generally be
produced by direct spinning methods, while super-micro fibers sometimes require bi-
component technology for production.
• Comparisons
Human Hair 30-50 dpf
Wool 4-6 dpf
Cotton 1.4 -1.6 dpf
Silk 1.1 -1.2 dpf
Microfibre less than 1.0 dpf
Super-microfibre less than 0.3 dpf

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Each individual fibre is made up of millions of individual long molecular chains of discrete
chemical structure. The arrangement and orientation of these molecules within the
individual fibre, as well as the gross cross section and shape of the fibre (morphology), will
affect fibre properties, but by far the chemical structure of the long molecular chains which
made up the fibre will determine the basic physical and chemical nature of that fibre.
Usually, the polymeric molecular chains found in the fibres have a definite chemical
sentence which repeats itself along the length of the molecule. The total number of units
which repeat themselves in a chain (n) varies from a few units to several hundred and is
referred to as the degree of polymerization (DP) for molecules within that fibre.

Fibre Properties
There are several primary properties necessary for a polymeric material to make an adequate
fibre; 1) fibre length to width ratio, 2) fibre uniformity, 3) fibre strength and flexibility, 4)
fibre extensibility and elasticity and 5) fibre cohesiveness
Certain other fibre properties increase its value and desirability in its intended end-use but
are not necessary properties essential to make a fibre. Such secondary properties include
moisture absorption characteristics, fibre resiliency, abrasion resistance, density, luster,
chemical resistance, thermal characteristics, and flammability.

Primary Properties
Fibre Length to Width Ratio
Fibrous materials must have sufficient length so that they can be made into twisted yarns. In
addition, the width of the fibre (the diameter of the cross section) must be much less than the
overall length of the fibre, and usually the fibre diameter should be 1/100 of the length of the
fibre. The fibre may be infinitely long, as found with continuous filament fibres, or as short
as 0.5 inches as found in staple fibres. Most natural fibres are staple fibres, whereas man-
made fibres come in either staple or filament form depending on processing prior to yarn
formation.
Fibre Uniformity
Fibres suitable for processing into yarns and fabrics must be fairly uniform in shape and
size. Without sufficient uniformity of dimensions and properties in a given set of fibres to

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be twisted into yarn, the actual formation of the yarn may be impossible or the resulting yarn
may be weak, rough, and irregular in size and shape and unsuitable for textile usage.
Fibre Strength and Flexibility
A fibre or yarn made from the fibre must possess sufficient strength to be processed into a
textile fabric or other textile article. Following fabrication into a textile article, the resulting
textile must have sufficient strength to provide adequate durability during end-use.
The strength of single fibre is called the tenacity, defined as the force per unit linear density
necessary to break known unit of that fibre. The breaking tenacity of a fibre may be
expressed in grams per denier (g/d) or grams per tex (g/tex). Many experts consider single
fibre strength of 5 grams per denier to be necessary for a fibre suitable in most textile
application, although certain fibres with strengths as low as 1.0 grams per denier have been
found suitable for some applications.
A fibre must be sufficiently flexible to go through repeated bending without significant
strength deterioration or breakage of the fibre. Without adequate flexibility, it would be
impossible to convert fibres into yarns and fabrics, since flexing and bending of the
individual fibres is a necessary part of this conversion. In addition, individual fibres in a
textile will be subjected to considerable bending and flexing during end-use.
Fibre Extensibility and Elasticity
An individual fibre must be able to undergo slight extensions in length (less than 5%)
without breakage of the fibre. At the same time the fibre must be able to almost completely
recover following slight fibre deformation. In other words, the extension deformation of the
fibre must be nearly elastic. These properties are important because the individual fibres in
textiles are often subjected to sudden stresses, and the textile must be able to give and
recover without significant overall deformation of the textile.
Fibre Cohesiveness
Fibres must be capable of adhering to one another when spun into a yarn. The cohesiveness
of the fibre may be due to the shape and contour of the individual fibres or the nature of the
surface of the fibres. In addition, long-filament fibres by virtue of their length can be
twisted together to give stability without true cohesion between fibres. Often the term
“spinning quality” is used to state the overall attractiveness of fibres for one another.

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Secondary Properties
Moisture Absorption and Desorption
Most fibres tend to absorb moisture (water vapour) when in contact with the atmosphere.
The amount of water absorbed by the textile fibre will depend on the chemical and physical
structure and properties of the fibre, as well as the temperature and humidity of the
surroundings. The percentage absorption of water vapour by a fibre is often expressed as its
moisture regain.
Fibres will vary greatly in there regain, with hydrophobic (water repelling) fibers having
regains near zero and hydrophilic (water seeking) fibres like cotton, and wool having regains
as high as 15% at 21°C and 65% relative humidity.
The low regain found for many man-made fibres makes them quick drying, a distinct
advantage in certain applications. Fibres with high regains are often desirable because they
provide a “breathable” fabric which can conduct moisture from the body to the outside
atmosphere readily, due to their favourable moisture absorption-desorption properties. The
tensile properties of fibres as well as their dimensional properties are known to be affected
by moisture.
Fibre Resiliency and Abrasion Resistance
In consumer use, fibres are often placed under stress through compression, bending, and
twisting (torsion) forces under variety of temperature and humidity conditions. If the fibres
within the fabric posses good elastic recovery properties from such deformative actions, the
fibre has good resiliency and better overall appearance in end-use. For example, cotton and
wool show poor wrinkle recovery under hot moist conditions, whereas polyester exhibits
good recovery from deformation as a result of its high resiliency.
Resistance of a fibre to damage when mobile forces or stresses come in contact with fibre
structures is referred to as abrasion resistance. If a fibre is able to effectively absorb and
dissipate these forces without damage, the fibre will show good abrasion resistance. The
toughness and hardness of the fibre is related to its chemical and physical structure and
morphology of the fibre and will influence the abrasion of the fibre.
Luster
Luster refers to the degree of light that is reflected from the surface of a fibre or the degree
of gloss or sheen that the fibre possesses. The luster of a fibre is directly related to the
percentage of light reflected from the fibres when light is shined on it. The inherent

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chemical and physical structure and shape of the fibre can affect the relative luster of the
fibre.
Resistance to chemicals in the Environment
A textile fibre to be useful must have reasonable resistance to chemicals it comes into
contact within its environment during use and maintenance. It should have resistance to
oxidation by oxygen and other gases in the air, particularly in the presence of light, and be
resistant to attack by micro-organisms and other biological agents. Many fibres undergo
light induced reactions, and fibres from natural sources are susceptible to biological attack,
but such deficiencies can be minimized by treatment with appropriate finishes. Textile
fibres come in contact with a large range of chemical agents on laundering and dry cleaning
and must be resistant from attack under such conditions.
Density
The density of a fibre is related to its inherent chemical structure and the packing of the
molecular chains within that structure. The density of a fibre will have a noticeable effect
on its aesthetic appeal and its usefulness in given applications.
Thermal and Flammability Characteristics
Fibres used in textiles must be resistant to wet and dry heat and must not ignite readily when
coming in contact with a flame, and ideally should self-extinguish when the flame is
removed. Heat stability is particularly important to a fibre during dyeing and finishing of
the textile and during cleaning and general maintenance by the consumer. Textile fibres for
the most part are made up of organic polymeric materials containing carbon and burn on
ignition from a flame or other propagating source. The chemical structure of a fiber
establishes its overall flammability characteristics, and appropriate textile finishes can
reduce this degree of flammability.

Fibre Classification
Textile fibres are normally broken down into two main classes, natural and man-made
fibres. All fibres which come from natural sources (animal, plants etc.) and do not require
fibre formation or reformation are classed as natural fibres. Natural fibres include the
protein fibres such as wool and silk, the cellulose fibres such as cotton and linen, and the
mineral fibre asbestos. Man-made fibres are fibres in which either the basic chemical units
have been formed by chemical synthesis followed by fibre formation or the polymers from
natural sources have been dissolved and regenerated after passage through spinnerets to
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form fibres. Those fibres made by chemical synthesis are often called synthetic fibres, while
fibres regenerated from natural polymer sources are called regenerated fibres or natural
polymer fibres. In other words, all synthetic fibres and regenerated fibres are man-made
fibres, since man is involved in the actual fibre formation process. In contrast, fibres from
natural sources are provided by nature in ready-made form. These categories are shown in
following Table A.

Table A: General fibre Classification

Natural fibres
Cellulosic Protein Mineral
Cotton (seed hair) Wool Asbestos
Flax (bast) Silk
Jute (bast) Mohair
Sisal (leaf) Cashmere
Ramie (bast) Other animal hairs

Man-made fibres
Regenerated Modified Synthetic Mineral
Viscose rayon Cellulose diacetate Polyamide Glass
Cupra ammonium Cellulose triacetate Polyester Steel
Rayon Polyacrylic Carbon
Polyolefin
Polyvinyl
Elastane

Cellulosic Fibres
This category includes by far the most important textile fibre, cotton, which makes up nearly
50% of the total weight of fibres used in the world. Growing cotton is very important
economically to many countries which export the fibre in return for foreign currency. In
addition, they can use the seed oil for cooking and the remainder of the plant for animal
feeds. The cotton fibre is the seed hair of the cotton plant. Other cellulosic fibres are
extracted from alternative parts of plants.
The bast fibres, flax, jute and ramie, are extracted from the stems of particular plants by a
controlled rotting process known as retting. Jute is used mainly for packaging material and
flax, which is known as linen, is used for specialty fashion fabrics. Sisal comes from the
leaves of the plant.
• Composition of cotton

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 – 87 to 90% cellulose; 5 to 8% water; remainder is natural impurities
• Physical Properties
Length 1/8 to 2 ½ inches; American Upland: 15/16 to 1 3/8 inches; Pima: 1 3/8
to 2 ½ inches
Color White, cream, gray, brown
Luster Very little unless mercerized
Strength-Dry 3.0 – 5.0
(grams/denier)
Strength-Wet 3.3 - 6.0
(grams/denier)
Extensibility 3 - 10%
Elasticity 75% recovery at 2% extension
Resiliency Low
Moisture Regain @8.5%
70F, 65% rh
Flammability Burns when exposed to flame and continues to burn when flame is
removed
Electrical Does not build up static charges
Conductivity
Specific Gravity 1.54

• Thermal properties
– Does not melt
– Decomposes slowly upon exposure to dry heat above 300°F
– Decomposes rapidly above 475°F
• Chemical properties
– Easily damaged by strong acids
– High resistance to alkalies
– Loses strength under prolonged exposure to ultraviolet rays of sunlight
Protein Fibres

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These fibres make up a small proportion of the market by weight but a much higher
proportion by value. The major fibre in this category is wool with its crimp and excellent
elasticity giving woolen fabrics valued properties. Silk is only available on a small scale but
is priced as the only natural filament fibre. Other animal hair fibres such as mohair,
cashmere and vicuna are only produced on a small scale but are sold at very high prices.
• Composition Wool fibre
– Protein fiber
• Physical Properties
Length 1 – 2 inches; most wool fibers are 1 – 8 inches; 1 – 3 inches
in woolen yarns; 4 – 8 inches in worsted yarns
Color Off-white to brown or black
Luster Low; wool fibers with more crimp are lower in luster
Strength-Dry (grams/denier) 1.0 – 1.7
Strength- Wet (grams/denier) 0.8 – 1.6
Extensibility 20 - 40%
Elasticity 99% recovery at 2% extension
Resiliency High
Moisture Regain @ 70F,65% rh 13 - 16%
Flammability Burns slowly and is self-extinguishing
Electrical Conductivity Poor conductor; builds up static charges
Specific Gravity 1.30

• Thermal properties
– Becomes weak when heated in boiling water for prolonged times
– In dry heat above 266°F begins to decompose and yellow
• Chemical properties
– Not easily damaged by acids
– Very easily attacked by alkalies
– Weakened by sunlight
• Composition of Silk fiber
– Protein fiber
• Physical Properties
• Length • 300 – 600 meters
• Color • Off-white to cream, yellow, or brown
• Luster • High
• Strength- Dry • 2.4 – 5.1

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 (grams/denier)
• Strength- Wet • 2.0 – 4.3
(grams/denier)
• Extensibility • 10 - 25%
• Elasticity • 92% recovery at 2% extension
• Resiliency • Medium
• Moisture Regain @ 70F, • 11%
65% rh
• Flammability • Burns slowly and is self-extinguishing
• Electrical Conductivity • Poor conductor; builds up static charges
• Specific Gravity • 1.25 – 1.34
• Thermal properties
– Degrades rapidly at temperatures above 350°F
– Scorches easily at temperatures above 300°F
• Chemical properties
– Good resistance to most acids except strong mineral acids
– Slightly more resistant to alkalies than wool
– Weakened by sunlight

Mineral fibres
Asbestos is the only naturally-occurring mineral fibre. It has been used in heat-resistant
material, thermal insulation, brake blocks and reinforcement in sheet materials for building.
The use of asbestos is now rapidly declining following the discovery of health risks from
asbestos dust.
Man-made fibres
Regenerated fibres
Regenerated fibres are manufactured from a natural polymer, cellulose, which is obtained
from wood. Cellulose is also the starting product for the manufacture of paper. The
cellulose is reacted chemically so that it will dissolve in sodium hydroxide solution, then
reformed by extruding the viscose solution called viscose into dilute sulphuric acid solution.
The viscose fibres are chemically similar to cotton and share the desirable property of
moisture absorbency.
By adapting the basic production process, a range of viscose fibres with different
characteristics, including high tenacity, high wet modulus, crimped and inflated fibres, can
be produced for different uses. At one time, viscose continuous filament for tyre cord and

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for textile applications was produced but this has declined and now staple fibre and tow are
mainly produced.
The viscose process is long and complicated and the by-products give rise to environmental
problems. There is much interest at present in producing man-made cellulosic fibres by an
alternative process using a solvent for the cellulose.
• Composition
– Regenerated cellulose

• Physical Properties
Length Filament and staple
Color Transparent unless dulled by pigments
Luster Bright to dull
Strength- DryRegular rayon: 2.4 - 3.0; high wet modulus: 4.0 - 5.0
(grams/denier)
Strength- WetRegular rayon: 1.1 - 1.5; high wet modulus: 2.2 - 3.0
(grams/denier)
Extensibility 15 - 24%
Elasticity 82% recovery at 2% extension (95% for HWM)
Resiliency Low
Moisture Regain @ 70F,11 – 16%
65% rh
Flammability Burns rapidly unless treated
Electrical Conductivity Does not build up static charges
Specific Gravity 1.51

• Thermal properties
– Loses strength above 300°F
– Decomposes above 350°F
• Chemical properties
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 – Easily damaged by strong acids
– Resistant to most alkalies; loses strength in strong alkalies
– Lengthy exposure to sunlight weakens the fabric
– Greater affinity for dyes than cotton
Modified regenerated Fibres
These fibres include cellulose diacetate and triacetate. The raw material is again cellulose,
but in these fibres it is modified chemically so that the polymer can be dissolved in an
organic solvent. The polymer solution can then be extruded into hot air which evaporates
the solvent leaving the fibres. The polymer remains in the chemically modified form and is
not converted back into cellulose.
Cellulose acetate fibres are produced almost entirely as continuous filament yarns and are
used in soft silk-like dress fabrics. Most cigarette filter tips are made from cellulose
diacetate fibres.

• Composition
– Acetate ester of cellulose
• Physical Properties
Length Filament and staple
Color Transparent unless dulled by pigments
Luster Bright to dull
Strength- Dry1.2 – 1.4
(grams/denier)
Strength- Wet0.9 – 1.0
(grams/denier)
Extensibility 25 - 35%
Elasticity 48 – 75% recovery at 4% extension
Resiliency Low
Moisture Regain @6.5%
70F, 65% rh
Flammability Burns easily and rapidly when exposed to flame
Electrical Low; static charges can develop under dry conditions
Conductivity
Specific Gravity 1.32

• Thermal properties
– Acetate softens and begins to melt at 347°F
– Triacetate softens and begins to melt at 455°F
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 • Chemical properties
– Poor resistance to concentrated acids
– Poor resistance to concentrated alkalies
– Acetate susceptible to damage by long exposure to sunlight; triacetate has
better
Synthetic Fibres
This group includes three major classes and several minor ones. The term synthetic means
that the polymer is entirely man made.
The first synthetic fibre was a polyamide (nylon). The first polyamides were produced in
the United states in 1938 and were used initially for stockings. The application rapidly
expanded into parachute fabrics and later to many other textile products including shirts,
bedsheets, underwear, carpets and reinforcement of rubber in tyres and belts. In the last few
years, polyamides have been displaced in some uses such as shirts, bedding and underwear
by polyester/cotton blends. The properties of polyamides, particularly the excellent
elasticity, make them very suitable for carpet piles, rubber reinforcement and tights and
stocking.

• Composition of Nylon
– Nylon 6,6: polyhexamethylene adipamide; Nylon 6: polycaprolactam
• Physical Properties
Length Filament and staple
Color Transparent unless dulled by pigments
Luster Bright to dull
Strength- Dry (grams/denier) 3.5 - 9.0
Strength- Wet (grams/denier) 3.2 - 8.0
Extensibility 16 - 50%
Elasticity 100% recovery at 4% extension
Resiliency Good
Moisture Regain @ 70F, 65% rh 2.8 – 5.0%
Flammability Shrinks from flame and melts
Electrical Conductivity Low; can build up static charges
Specific Gravity 1.14
• Thermal properties
– Nylon 6,6 softens at 445°F and melts at 480 - 500°F
– Nylon 6 melts at 419 - 430°F

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 • Chemical properties
– Dissolves in mineral and formic acids
– Good resistance to alkalies
– Loses strength under prolonged exposure to sunlight; bright yarn more
resistant than dull yarn
Polyester was first produced commercially in 1953 and having expanded rapidly, is now the
largest man-made fibre in terms of volume of production. Polyester staple fibre is very
commonly used blended with cotton or other cellulosics in shirts, blouses, dresses, trousers
and sheeting. Blends of polyester with wool are used in suitings and trousers. Polyester
continuous yarn is often used for seat belts, sewing threads and yacht sails, as well as
apparel items such as blouses. An interesting development is polyester microfibres,
extremely fine filaments, which give fabrics a soft silky handle.
• Composition of Polyester
– Combination of terephthalic acid or dimethyl terephthalate and ethylene
glycol
• Physical Properties
Length Filament and staple
Color Transparent or white
Luster Bright to dull
Strength- Dry (grams/denier) 2.8 - 6.3
Strength- Wet (grams/denier) 2.8 - 6.3
Extensibility 19 - 50%
Elasticity 97 - 100% recovery at 2% extension
Resiliency Excellent
Moisture Regain @ 70F, 65% rh 0.4%
Flammability Shrinks from flame and melts
Electrical Conductivity Low; can build up static charges
Specific Gravity 1.38

• Thermal properties
– Softens or sticks at 440 - 465°F
– Melts at 478 - 495°F
• Chemical properties
– Good resistance to most acids
– Good resistance to most alkalies
– Good resistance to sunlight

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Acrylic fibres were first produced in 1948. The fibres have a soft, warm handle and are well
suited to the production of high-bulk yarns. These find many applications in Knitwear,
carpets and pile fabrics. A variant of acrylics called modacrylic has greatly reduced
flammability and is used for children’s nightwear as well as upholstery fabrics for aircraft,
trains and public rooms.
• Composition of Acrylic
– Polyacrylonitrile and small amounts of other monomers
• Physical Properties
Length Primarily cut into staple fibers
Color White to cream
Luster Bright to dull
Strength- Dry (grams/denier) 2.0 – 2.7
Strength- Wet (grams/denier) 1.6 – 2.2
Extensibility 34 - 50%
Elasticity 99% recovery at 2% extension
Resiliency Good
Moisture Regain @ 70F, 65%1.0 - 1.5%
rh
Flammability Burns with yellow flames
Electrical Conductivity Static electricity can build up at low humidity
Specific Gravity 1.17
• Thermal properties
– Does not melt
– Sticks at 450°F
• Chemical properties
– Resistant to most acids; strong, concentrated acids can cause strength loss
– Damaged by concentrated alkalies
– Excellent resistance to ultraviolet light

The polyolefin fibres, polythene and polypropylene, are of increasing importance and their
production now totals about 8% of all synthetic fibres. Polypropylene in particular is used
for carpets, upholstery fabrics, geotextiles (fabrics for ground and soil reinforcement) and is
now becoming more widely used for clothing. The textile uses of polythene are limited due
to the low melting point (120°C).
The other synthetic fibres are produced on a much smaller scale. The polyvinyl fibres are
mainly polyvinyl chloride or polyvinyl alcohol. The polyvinyl chloride fibres are used in
thermal wear but do not have a wide range of applications.
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Elastane fibres can be extended from three to five times their original length before they
break. Small proportions are used where fabrics with stretch properties are needed.
Elastane fibres are found in swimwear, stretch trousers and lingerie.
The aramides are the newest class of fibres. Chemically, they are modified polyamides.
One type of aramide fibre has exceptionally high tenacity, up to three times that of other
fibres. The other type has excellent resistance to heat and flame although normal tensile
properties. The best known brand names and Kevlar for the first type and Nomex for the
second; both are products of the DuPont Company of the USA.
Mineral fibres
These fibres are glass, steel and carbon, all of which are found in industrial end-uses. Glass
is used for low-cost reinforced plastics for ships, car and vehicle parts and many other
applications such as thermal and electrical insulation products. Steel fibres are used for
reinforcing rubber in tyres and belts and for filters where chemical resistance is important.
Carbon fibres are manufactured from acrylic fibres and are also used for reinforcement of
plastics. Carbon fibres are very expensive and consequently go into high-cost, high-
performance reinforced plastics such as aircraft parts and some leisure goods like squash and
tennis rackets, where the user is prepared to pay for the superior performance.

Fibre Blends
For some products the ideal set of properties will not be obtainable from just one generic
type of fibre. Instead, a blend of two or more fibres will be used.
Uniform mixing of different types of fibres before spinning is known as blending of fibres
and the composite yarn thus produced is known as blended yarn.
There are number of reasons for blending fibres;
- to produce a better balance of technical properties for a particular textile product
- to produce a cheaper product by blending a low cost fibre with a more expensive one
- to produce special colour effects by blending fibres with different dyeing
characteristic
However, there are costs as well as benefits in blending fibres. It adds an extra process to
the many involved in manufacturing. Blending is also a process that has to be carefully
controlled to avoid variability in the product. The wet processing sequence has to be
selected to avoid chemical conditions that will damage either fibre. Dyeing may well have
to be carried out in two stages, one to colour each fibre.
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The most common blend is polyester/cotton, usually in the proportions 50/50 or 67/33
although other proportions are now used in some products. Blends with more than 50
percent cotton are often termed ‘cotton rich’. These blends combine the softness and
moisture absorption of cotton with the dimensional stability, hard-wearing and easy-care
qualities of polyester. The convoluted shape of the cotton fibres gives products greater bulk
and cover compared with 100 percent polyester. Fabrics are still rather lean compared with
100 percent cotton, however, the effects of burning are not entirely beneficial though.
Cotton burns readily while polyester tends to melt back from a flame and consequently does
not burn. In polyester/cotton blends, the cotton prevents the polyester from shrinking away
from a flame and the mixture burns very fiercely.
Polyester/cotton blends have given rise to new printing and other processes to produce novel
effects. Thus when a fabric made from polyester/cotton blended fibre yarn (both warp and
weft), is passed through 70% sulphuric acid, the entire cotton component of the whole fabric
is destroyed and removed, thereby keeping the polyester fibre intact. 100% terrene saries
are made by this process. In another process a thickened solution of alum is printed on the
blended fibres fabric and heated to a temperature (140-150°C) when sulphuric acid released
from the alum destroys the cotton component of the blend present at the printed portions.
This produces a transparent design on an opaque background.
Count
Yarns are described as fine, medium and coarse. This is not a clear-cut classification since
the same yarn, called coarse by the manufacturer of thin, combed yarn may be classed as
fine yarn by the blanket manufacturer. Instead of this another system in which length of yarn
per unit weight is taken as the unit. Thus in the case of cotton yarn, the count system is used.
The count of a yarn is defined as the number of hanks to a pound, each hank containing 840
yards of the yarn. For example, if 40 hanks, each containing 840 yards of the yarn, weigh 1
lb, than the yarn count is 40 and is expressed as “40s count”.

As the count of the yarn increases, the fineness increases (i.e. the diameter of the yarn
decreases). Conversely, as the count decreases, the fineness decreases i.e. the yarn becomes
coarser (thicker). Cotton yarn is generally made in the range between 20s and 80s.
Denier
In the case of man-made fibers, the diameter of the filament yarns ( or fineness of the yarns)
is generally expressed in Deniers, which was originally developed in France for expressing
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the fineness of silk filaments. In this case, if 9000 meter of a particular yarn weigh x g, then
its denier is x. In other words, denier of a yarn is the weight in grams of 9000 meters of the
yarn.
As the denier increases, the yarn becomes thicker (or coarser) and conversely, as the denier
decreases, the yarn becomes thinner (or finer).

Fibre Usage
The selection of a fibre for a particular end-product involves choice from each natural and
man-made generic type. Within each fibre generic type there will also be a range of
different fibres available. For the natural fibres, these can include varieties with different
fibres available. For the natural fibres, these can include varieties with different staple
length and linear density. Man-made fibres are also available in different staple lengths and
linear densities: they are produced as both continuous filaments and staple usually. Most
fibre types are also available in a whole spectrum of other modifications to give specific
properties, for instance differing luster, varying tensile properties, anti-static, anti-soiling,
dye variation etc.
The type of fibre chosen for a particular end-product will be determined by the best balance
of the following major quantifiable properties: tensile properties including tenacity,
extension at break, modulus and elasticity; moisture absorbency; optical character including
light reflectance and fibre shape; chemical resistance to damaging environments likely to be
found in the application; and electrical and thermal character, including ability of the fibre to
dissipate a static charge or to give a fabric the required warmth or coolness.
Not all of the above characteristics depend solely on the fibre. The appearance of a product
will be influenced by whether it is made from staple fibre or continuous filament yarns. If
continuous filament yarns are used then the appearance will depend on whether they are
textured. Similarly, the warmth of a fabric will depend on the construction of the yarns and
the fabric as well as the characteristics of the fibre.
The consumer will also have a set of requirements from textile products and may well use
different terms. Typical terms used by the consumer are hard-wearing, easy care, comfort,
appearance, value for money and safety of the product. These attributes can not be

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objectively measured, but each depends on a number of textile properties which can be
measured (Refer Table B)
Easy care means that a textile product can be washed by machine and that, after drying, the
article will be wearable without pressing.
Certain fibre generic types may be recognized as having well-defined advantages. Cotton is
known for its comfort (moisture and thermal character) and pleasing appearance (low luster
and surface irregularity); wool is considered comfortable (warmth due to the natural crimp);
regenerated cellulose -viscose- has advantages of low cost and comfort (high moisture
absorbency); synthetic fibres such as polyester, polyamide, acrylics and polypropylene have
a relatively low cost, durability (strength and toughness) and easy-care properties (low
moisture absorbency and thermoplasticity).
The ultimate marketability of a textile product depends on a balance of the above subjective
properties and on the cost.
Table B: Testing of Textile Properties
Customer term Textile property Test for property
Comfort Moisture character, flexibility, Absorbency/transport
elasticity, thermal character softness/resilience
Appearance Optical character, elasticity Appearance, luster, crease
resistance, shape retention
Durability Tensile strength, toughness, Abrasion resistance
flexibility, elasticity
Easy care Moisture character, elasticity, Low absorbency
dimensional stability Thermoplasticity
Safety Flammability, chemical resistance LOI

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