Enter the Exciting World of Miniature

Schnauzers!
Of small dog breeds, Miniature Schnauzers are a popular choice. But are they right for you? The Mini Schnauzer certainly
has a lot to offer and heaps of advantages over other small dog breeds, but they don’t suit everyone!

As a fledgling Veterinarian contemplating what breed to specialize in, I remember looking over a Pal “Dog Breeds of the
World” poster. The Mini Schnauzer jumped out at me, firstly just because of its sheer good looks! A well kept Schnauzer
is a joy to the eye.

I had already decided to go for a small dog breed because they are lower maintenance, eat less, poop less, and can’t
cause as much damage as big breeds. I also support small dog breeds because - in a world where many people don’t get
enough to eat - they are a more ethical choice.

Then I got more scientific...

Of all small dog breeds, there were very few which weren’t - from a veterinary viewpoint – the result of some gross
genetic malformation that someone decided to perpetuate into a new breed.

I mean, how many small dog breeds are there that are simply built wrong – with long backs prone to disc slippage,
abnormally short and twisted legs that slip ligaments and encourage arthritis and injury, or squashed up faces with
popping eyes prone to damage, respiratory systems that go into red alert on a warm day, and mouths that can’t even
bite neatly to eat their food!

We were taught at Veterinary School that bad doggy design means a lifetime of potential health problems ...that
narrowed the field down a lot.

As I researched the Miniture Schnauzer breed further, another thing that attracted me to them was that they don’t shed
hair. They are highly rated as a hypo-allergenic breed perfect for people with mild dog dander allergies in the family (as
well as the house and car proud folks out there!).

The Miniature Schnauzer Personality.

When people call me looking for information about the Miniature Schnauzer Breed, they always want to know more about
the Miniature Schnauzer personality.

It’s an important question, and has a lot of bearing on whether the Mini Schnauzer is the best choice of breed for
particular people.

Having been a registered breeder of Minis in Australia for 18 years, I have gotten to know the Miniature Schnauzer breed
probably as thoroughly as anyone! And my dogs haven’t been cooped up down the back in kennels either – I’ve only ever
kept a handful at a time, always living closely with us as part of the family.

Understanding the origins and history of the Miniature Schnauzer breed gives a lot of clues about the Miniature Schnauzer
personality.

Traits common to the Miniature Schnauzer Breed are:

• Active

The Miniature Schnauzer breed has beautiful, athletic and well balanced bodies made for activity.

What this means for you as a potential owner is… don’t even think of adopting a Mini unless you are willing, happy, and
able to exercise them every day.. and I mean EVERY day!
Properly trained (its not rocket science) they should also be taken to a safe place where you can let them off the lead to
run around and expend all that energy!

They absolutely love their daily walk and get quite excited and enthusiastic when “walkies time” is nigh. Despite their size
they are also quite strong and are apt to pull on the lead (easily corrected with a dog halter). So you need to be active
and reasonably strong yourself.

Sadly, because of this I have to turn down well-meaning people wanting to buy a puppy for a frail and elderly relative. I
advise them to get a preferably elderly dog of a small breed that is built wrong and therefore less inclined to be active
(like a Maltese, Pekinese or Shitzu for example).

However… and this is important!...once the German Schnauzer has been for its expected exercise, it is more than happy
to flop around quietly for the rest of the day. In winter when mine have on their matching knitted coats, they sleep on
the lounge and do a great job of impersonating pillows.

• Not Yappy

I often tell people that the Miniature Schnauzer breed is like a big dog in a small dog’s body. That’s because they are not
normally “yappy” like many small dog breeds tend to be.

Having spent a few years in suburbia (now in the country) I’ve noted that even a full chorus of dogs barking in the
neighborhood doesn’t usually set them off. Though I must admit that my male dog “Shadow” launches into falsetto
howling when an ambulance goes by!

• Great Watchdogs

The Miniature Schnauzer personality lends them to being fantastic watchdogs. They really are courageous and plucky
little critters!

When someone comes visiting you can usually count on the Schnauzer breeds to sound the alarm loud and clear. They’ll
also be pretty excited to meet and greet your visitors, but calm down rapidly once introduced and are almost never
aggressive.

• Sociable

Miniature Schnauzers are extremely interested in everyone and everything. When you take them out walking they will
want to meet every person, child and dog plus investigate every smell along the way!

If not properly socialized, they may become hysterically excited by encounters with other dogs. The importance of puppy
socialization of your baby Schnauzer cannot be over-emphasized!

• Like to Chase Things

In keeping with its origins, the Mini German Schnauzer likes to chase things.

Anything that runs away is considered good sport to our breed! I’ve even witnessed my dogs stalking insects, catching
birds, and dealing drastically with rats.

Now we’ve moved onto a small farm, we’ve had cause to nip this tendency in the bud – and that’s the secret really.
Don’t ever let your dogs get away with it! They’ll soon get the message…

Ensuring that Mini Schnauzers grow up as puppies socializing with other animals is a good preventative strategy. Mine,
for example, have learnt absolute respect for cats from lessons learnt in puppyhood.

• Schnauzer Talk

Many of my Minis have been talkers – apt to vocalize on a range of situations. It’s pretty endearing to hear your
Schnauzer talk to you! They are likely to express all sorts of emotions from pleasure at seeing you and joy to mild
disapproval ..and everything in between.

• Playful
Given the activity level of the Miniature Schnauzer breed, its not surprising that they are very playful, even as adults. A
big part of the joy of owning more than one is seeing them play together.

They can be easily taught to fetch, and make great playmates and companions for active children and adults alike.

• Good with Children

Most Mini Schnauzers I know are good with children – though I have met a few individuals that weren’t. One of my
bitches “Chloe” absolutely adores little toddlers – even though not raised with them. She follows them around, gently
talking to them and touching them with her nose, while good-naturedly dodging their attempts to hit her.

Any dog raised as a puppy with positive socialization with kids is likely to be good with them as adults, and vice versa!
Experiences during puppy hood are so important – it’s really in your hands to raise your puppy to be the kind of dog you
want when it grows up.

• Lap-dog Wannabes

Every Miniature Schnauzer I have ever known has been affectionate. They crave curling up on your (or anyone’s) lap for
a cuddle! They also absolutely love a pat or a scratch on the tummy and become instant best mates with anyone inclined
to play along.

• Stay-at-home Wanderers

One peculiarity of the Miniature Schnauzer breed is that they tend to reliably stay around the house …unless there is
more than one of them!

Once they have company the German Schnauzer is quite apt to go off exploring the big wide world, given half a chance.
Several years ago when I lived in a small town, my three dogs did just that. They ended up at the Ranger’s house where
they terrorized his chickens! Thanks guys…

• Extrovert/Introvert

Like the human world, the Miniature Schnauzer breed has its extroverts and introverts. You can easily pick Miniature
Schnauzer personality by observing them when they are puppies. From the age of about 5 weeks their character starts to
become apparent. There are also tests you can do to identify the more dominant extroverts and the more submissive
introverts.

The extroverts display a bigger Miniature Schnauzer personality but sometimes require a firmer hand in order to have
them accept that YOU are the alpha top dog in your pack!

If you are after a more gentle, easily dominated dog, then the introverts are the ones for you. Breeders who raise their
puppies as part of the family (rather than down the back in puppy factory kennels) will be close enough to them to help
you choose the right puppy.

• Do They Dig?

Thankfully, the digging instinct is not extremely strong in the Miniature Schnauzer breed. Mine only dig to either bury a
bone (in which case I’ve been overfeeding them and need to cut back) or to create a cooler place to lie in hot weather
(remedy: provide cooler areas for them with plants or shelter).

Another tip to dissuade them working further on a hole is to tip some of their stools into it. I found that after I’d planted
seedlings in the garden, my dogs would sometimes “help me” by adding their own digging handi-work.

The solution was to water areas I’d just worked in which weakened my scent enough to remove the stimulus that was
making my dogs dig. I also use chicken netting over some areas which works well.

Mini Schnauzer History: Origins of the

Miniature Schnauzer Breed.
The history of the Mini Schnauzer began with the appearance of German Schnauzer breeds in the Middle Ages, from
which the Miniature Schnauzer breed was developed.
Originally Schnauzer type dogs of today’s “standard” size were kept by peasants as a versatile helper used for herding,
ratting and as watchdogs.

Very similar in appearance to today’s Standard Schnauzers, they were often depicted in art of the period, such as Albert
Durer’s 1492 watercolor”Madonna with Many Animals”

In the early 1800’s dog breeders began to refine and develop the Standard Schnauzer breed, which first competed at dog
shows as the Wire-haired Pinscher.

Among the many roles played by the Standard Schnauzer through modern history have included as Red Cross guard dogs
in World War I, as police dogs, as drug and bomb sniffers, and for search and rescue.

By the 1888 both the Giant and Miniature Schnauzer breed had been developed from Standard Schnauzer stock.

The purpose for which the smaller version of the breed was designed was principally as a German farm dog with all the
useful qualities of the Standard – as courageous herd guard and watchdog - but small enough to also be an effective
ratter for farm and stable.

The resulting Miniature Schnauzer personality has led to it being a very popular and useful pet today.

To achieve the scaling down of the Standard Schnauzer, suitable pups were bred on from crosses with small breeds.
Exactly which ones is a matter of speculation, but likely candidates are the Affenpinscher and Miniature Pinscher, perhaps
the Poodle or Brussels Griffon, and even the Pomeranian could have been involved!

In Australia the breed is classed as a utility type, in the USA as a Miniature Schnauzer terrier, and in the UK
as a working dog.

Schnauzers and me were a compatible combination!

I’ve now been a Mini Schnauzer owner and breeder for 18 great fun-filled years. If Mini Schnauzers are the right breed
for you , you can learn more, right here, to help you zero in on your perfect puppy! Like what Mini Schnauzer colors are
available, and which do you prefer?

We’ll even help you pick a great Schnauzer name for it!

Check out the main menu of our site for more important information on how to choose the right Miniature Schnauzer
breeder as well as how to care for and train your dog, what health issues to look out for, and Schnauzer grooming.

You can even learn how to successfully breed your own Mini Schnauzers if you decide to pursue that adventure.

Toy Schnauzer, Teacup Schnauzers or Miniature

Schnauzers? Size Matters!
The Toy Schnauzer and Teacup Schnauzers: Are they really Miniature Schnauzers at all?

Are they undesirable – as some dog experts say?

If so, why are they so popular?

Toy and Teacup Schnauzers – The Official View

Breed Standards set out the ideal conformation of every recognized breed – from the length and shape of every bit of
their body to their temperament and the way they walk.

Conformation of the perfect Miniature Schnauzer

Registered Dog Breeders must officially accept - as a condition of registration - a commitment to breed only for the
purpose of improving the quality of the breed.

This means aiming to breed dogs that conform as closely to the prevailing “Breed Standard” for their breed as possible.
And those most successful at achieving this are recognized by winning the most ribbons at dog shows.

That’s really what the Breed Standards are for – to give show breeders an ideal to aim for whereby they can assess the
quality of their stock.

According to Australian Breed Standards the ideal height for the Miniature Schnauzer is 35.6 cm (14 inches) for dogs,
and 33 cm (13 inches) for bitches.

The Standards state that “Too small, toyish appearing dogs are not typical, and are undesirable.”

So you can't (presently) win shows with Toy or Teacup sized dogs, no matter how great their overall conformation!

Some breeders go so far as to say that there is no such thing as the Toy or Teacup Schnauzer and that anyone
deliberately breeding smaller Miniature Schnauzers should be considered “uninformed and therefore not responsible”.

Why Bother Training Your Dog?

The time you put into training your dog is time well spent. A soundly trained dog is a joy to own and a source of pride to
its owner.

A poorly trained dog, on the other hand, creates havoc, destroys property and is a source of regular embarrassment
every time it jumps on visitors, messes on your carpets, or pulls on the leash.

Aside from that, training strengthens the bond between you and your dog, making him more responsive to your
correction of any of his behavioral problems.

The attention you and the family give him every day through in home dog training makes him feel included in the pack,
promoting his sense of belonging and security.

Further, a trained dog becomes more sensitive to your displeasure and much keener to avoid it. By training your dog you
also stimulate his capacity to learn, making him even more amenable to further training.

What’s Better: In Home Dog Training or Classes?

We recommend Puppy Preschool as a great way to enrich Schnauzer puppy training, and Obedience classes too for adult
Schnauzer training if you and your dog both enjoy it.

However, not everyone has the time available to attend organized classes.

• Because daily repetition is one of the most crucial dog training techniques, some in home dog training is always
essential. • It is also very convenient. You don’t have to drive anywhere! • It is easy at home to snatch 10 minutes of the
day to work with your dog. • And it is cheap! • Once you’ve mastered the basic dog training techniques and principles
you will be empowered to help your dog reach his potential.

Time + Information = Success!

Once you are willing to put in a little bit of time each day, all you need is the right information.

In order to have a good dog, you have to learn how to be a good owner!

The small amount of effort and time you put into learning basic dog training techniques, and applying them, will reward
you with a dog that is a pleasure to own for the 12 to 15 years that he is part of your life.
Soon to come...

• Basic dog obedience training

• Dog clicker training

• Dog agility training

• Dog training hand signals

• Best dog training book

• Puppy training

• Dog leash training

• Guard dog training

• Dog breed training

Dog Health Problems

and Solutions in
the Miniature Schnauzer

In every breed of dog health problems peculiar to the breed exist. Miniature Schnauzers are no exception!

We take an honest look at Miniature Schnauzer health problems and, most importantly, how to avoid them happening to
your pet!

Here you’ll find a wealth of Miniature Schnauzer information including tips on choosing a healthy puppy, plus guidance on
how to feed and care for it for a long, trouble-free life.

Mini Schnauzers are normally strong, robust and built to last – indeed, more so than most other breeds!

A hardy, healthy Mini Schnauzer, dashing through the snow. Image by Compromised Exposure, Flickr.
Click on photo to see source.
health miniature problem schnauzer

But, like every other purebred there are a few genetic problems lurking in the Miniature Schnauzer gene pool.

The most common genetic problems are:

• Progressive Retinal Atrophy

• Cataracts
• Liver Shunt

Those are the main genetic issues.

Pups are born with them and there is little you can do to prevent them happening if they are in the genetic blueprint of
your dog.

Other Mini Schnauzer Health Problems

There are a few other health problems that sometimes affect the Miniature Schnauzer that may depend more on how you
care for your dog. With these, a genetic link is sometimes suspected but not proven:

• Canine Diabetes

• Canine Pancreatitis

• Schnauzer Bumps

Does your dog or cat suffer from arthritis? Get help to relieve their suffering.

We also provide information to help you understand , how genetics works and the risks involved in buying a line-
bred puppy.

You can also access great advice on what to feed your Schnauzer and how to raise her to promote great health, vitality
and a long, trouble-free life of enjoyment for you and your pet.

For a comprehensive guide to the symptoms, diagnosis and treatment of common canine diseases and conditions I
recommend the Dog Health Handbook.

CARING FOR YOUR PUPPY

Dogs make enjoyable and affectionate pets and they very quickly build up a strong bond with humans.

dogs are a long term commitment. the average life span of a miniature schnauzer is 10-12 years

when choosing your puppy it should be at least 8 weeks old and be fully weaned and eating from his own dish. by
this stage your puppy should have a few set of milk teeth.

when choosing your puppy you must consider the adult size of the dog,the size of your home and garden , exercise
and grooming reqirements.you also need to consider the cost of feeding,health care, professional grooming,holiday
care and the day care if you are at work all day.

A healthy puppy should be;

Bright and alert.

Have no signs of discharge from the eyes, ears, mouth and nose.

Have a clean anal area

Have a glossy coat with no bald patches and not have sores on the skin.

Should move about easily with no signs of lameness

Housing

Initially an indoor kennel can double up as a bed but a your puppu grows.provide a bed or basket with suitable
bedding for him , there are lots of products available and your pet shop will be happy to advise you.

Feeding and Watering

When you buy your puppy you will be supplied with a puppy diet sheet, if you decide yo change your puppy's diet do
this over a period if time as a sudden changed in diet can cause tummy upsets. your pet shop will stock a wide range
of canned, and dry foods that are balanced for your puppy's growth.

Fresh water should be available at all times,

Settling in

When you take your puppy home he will need a lot of rest, but do not leave him unattended for long periods of
time,it is advisable to confine your puppy to an indoor kennel when left alone.

Toilet training

Each time he wakes up, after meals and and at bed time. take your puppy out side wait until he finishes and praise
him

An indoor kennel can assist when toilet training.at first keep the bed to one half and place toilet training pads in the
other half in case of accidents, especially at night.

Exercise

Your dog will require daily exercise, always keep the dog in a lead n public, except in designated areas. Be prepared
to clean up after your dog when necessary. Your dog must wear a collar with a fitted tag of disc when in public. The
disc must bear the owner's name and address by law.

Socialisation and Training

A well trained dog is a happy dog and is unlikely to cause a nuisance to others . a puppy should attend socialization
classes as soon as he is old enough, which is usually after vaccination. there are weekly fog training clubs in most
areas.

Toys

your puppy will enjoy playing with toys. there is a wide variety to choose from and your pet shop will be pleased to
advise.

Check our new website www.dunglen.co.uk

Please feel free to leave a comment on our guestbook !

GENERAL CARE

Grooming -groom regularly with specialist equipment suitable for the schnauzers coat.
Worming- your puppy must be wormed regularly with a proprietary worming preparation.

Flea control-regular flea treatments will be needed to prevent fleas and other skin parasites

Vaccinations-your puppy must be vaccinated against the infectious canine diseases; distemper parovirus.
leptosiroisis. parainfluenxa and infectious hepatitis . regular boosters will be required. if you intend to take your pet
abroad he will need a pet passport.this requires amongst other things vaccination against rabies, your vet will
advise.

Neutering- if your are not going to breed from your dog it is advisable to neuter. your vet will advise.

Insurance- puppies should be registered with your vet and insurance against unexpected veterinary costs should be
considered.

Id chip- yo should consider having your puppy microchipped. your vet or other pet professional can advise you on
this.

SHOPPING LIST

1. Food
2. Food bowl
3. Water bowl
4. Food mat
5. Basket/bowl
6. Bedding
7. Brush/comb
8. Collar and lead
9. Disc/tag
10. Worm and flea preparations

11. Indoor kennel

12. Book on dog care

GROOMING

GROOMING.
The Miniature Schnauzer does not shed, so he often can be
enjoyed by persons who are allergic to other breeds of dogs. So
you don’t have to worry about getting hairs on your clothes. In
return, the owner must keep him groomed to maintain their
handsome appearance.
The Miniature Schnauzer is a double-coated breed that has a wiry
topcoat and a soft undercoat. The topcoat is maintained by hand
stripping and is required for the show ring. The pet trim calls for
the same outline but it is maintained using electric clippers. The
wiry topcoat will disappear with clippering, but this is the easiest
and most efficient way to maintain a neat looking Mini. Here are
some tips on how to groom your pet Mini.
 TOOLS

Here are some basic tools you will need before you get
started. Not all of these will be available in your local pet
supply store. Mail order catalogs that specialize in dog show
or dog grooming equipment are usually the best source of
grooming equipment..

BATHING:A schnauzer should be bathed as often as necessary

with any good dog shampoo. It is a good idea to wash the dog's
beard and leg furnishings at least once a week to keep them clean
and mat-free. A schnauzer usually smells if the beard or teeth are
dirty. The beard may be washed more frequently, if necessary.
Water should never be put in a dog's ears, and care should be
taken to insure that shampoo is kept out of the eyes. The inside
corner of the eyes should be cleaned daily with a tissue, as any
matter accumulating there can give off an offensive odor and
irritate the skin around the tear ducts. Tepid water should be used
while shampooing, and care should be taken that the dog is well-
rinsed. It is the traces of soap left behind that can cause dry skin
and flaky dandruff. A shampoo with bluing in it will help keep white
furnishings looking brighter. Always brush the dog thoroughly
with a Universal slicker brush before bathing to remove any
tangles, and when drying afterwards, use a pin brush to brush the
hair upwards to help give the leg hair some body. A flat slicker
brush can be used for this, also, but the pin brush will pull out less
hair. A bit of hair gel or mousse can be put into the furnishings
before drying to help give additional body if scissoring is planned.
Once the dog is dry, the flat slicker should be used to separate all
the individual hairs by brushing the hair upwards.

COMBING: Furnishings should be combed every day or two to

prevent the hair from snarling. First brush upwards through all the
longer hair with the Universal slicker brush, and then check all
work by combing up the furnishings on the legs about an inch at a
time, being sure that all snarls and mats have been removed. A
small, close-toothed comb is useful for getting out any snarls
between the toes. While lifting each front leg, the armpits and belly
hair should be thoroughly brushed and then combed, and the head
should be combed from the eyebrows down through the beard at
the upper part of the face and then forward from under the chin. A
schnauzer should always be thoroughly combed out both before
and after his bath to prevent any snarls from becoming matts.

Recipes
Here's a great recipe, I use...
My dog loves the food and The food you use now is fine, as long as it's the formula for puppies.

INGREDIENTS
3 pounds minced chicken meat
2 1/2 cups frozen vegetable blend (no garlic or onions), minced
4 cups rice
6 1/2 cups water

DIRECTIONS
Place chicken, vegetables, and rice into a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Stir in water until the mixture is smooth. Place over medium-high heat and
bring to a boil, stirring constantly.
Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the rice is tender and all of the liquid has been absorbed, about 25 minutes. Cool completely
before serving; store covered in the refrigerator.

Doggy Hamburger Helper

1 cup hamburger meat, stir-fried in 1 tbsp canola oil

2 boiled eggs, chopped

½ cup cooked plain oatmeal

1 jar baby food green beans

1 jar baby food carrots

2 Tbsp cottage cheese

Combine all ingredients and serve at room temperature. A good doggy multivitamin/mineral supplement may be added for good measure. Be sure to
store unused portions in a covered container in the refrigerator and discard any remains after 3 days.

Doggy Casserole

1 cup boiled poultry, chopped

½ cup cooked brown rice

½ cup boiled mixed vegetables

3 to 4 Tbsp unsalted chicken broth

(Note: Salmon may occasionally be substituted for boiled poultry, with chicken broth omitted.)

Stir together and serve at room temperature. A good doggy multivitamin/mineral supplement may be added for good measure. Be sure to store
unused portions in a covered container in the refrigerator and discard remains after 3 days.

Peanut Butter Pooch Cookies

21/2 cups whole wheat flour

¼ cup white flour

¼ cup oatmeal

11/4 Tbsp baking powder

1 Tbsp honey

1 cup peanut butter

1 cup milk
Combine flour, oatmeal, and baking powder. Combine milk, peanut butter, and honey in a separate bowl and mix well. Stir peanut butter mixture into
flour/oatmeal mixture. Knead dough and roll-out on floured surface to a quarter inch thickness. Cut out treats using a cookie cutter. Place aluminum
foil on cookie sheet and bake in a 400 degree oven for approximately 15 minutes.

Tail Waggers

3 Jars Baby Food – (1 carrot, 2 meat)

1/3 cup Wheat Germ

1/4 cup powdered milk

1/4 tsp garlic powder

Mix ingredients well and then press into small “patties”. Bake in 350 oven for about 15 minutes.

When you make it yourself, you know what goes into it. When cooking for your dog, always remember that chocolate and onions are dangerous for
dogs to eat. Happy National Dog Biscuit Day!
Homemade Dog Food Dangers

In the wake of recent pet food recalls, many dog owners have resorted to cooking for their dogs. A homemade diet is one way to know exactly what
you are feeding your best friend. However, not all human foods are good for dogs. If you are cooking for your dog or just sharing a snack, make sure
he’s not getting something that can cause illness or death.

Alcohol can cause breathing difficulties, abnormal blood acidity, coma and death in dogs. At parties, don’t let anyone offer your dog a ‘drink.’
Avocadoes contain persin which can cause digestive upsets and heart problems.
Bones may splinter and puncture or obstruct the digestive tract.
Broccoli in large amounts can cause illness in dogs.
Chocolate, coffee and tea all contain stimulants that cause abnormal heartbeat, seizures and death in dogs. Chocolate is especially dangerous for
dogs.
Corn on the cob is dangerous. Even though the corn will be digested, chunks of cob may obstruct the digestive tract
Grapes and raisins contain an unknown substance that causes kidney failure in dogs.
Liver in large amounts can cause Vitamin A toxicity.
Macadamia nuts contain an unidentified toxin that causes weakness, tremors, panting and swelling in the legs.
Walnuts may have a fungus or mold which causes drooling, jaundice, lack of coordination, and vomiting.
Milk is difficult for some dogs to digest effectively, which leads to G.I. upsets.
Mushrooms and molds can be toxic to dogs. Some varieties are more toxic than others.
Nutmeg is a seasoning that causes tremors, seizures, and death in dogs.
Onions and garlic, both cooked and raw, contain thiosulphate which can cause digestive upsets, hemolytic anemia, and death. Onions contain more
of the toxin than garlic does.
Raw egg whites contain avidin which causes B vitamin deficiency, skin problems and skeletal deformities Raw eggs can also harbor salmonella or
e.coli.
Raw fish, especially salmon, may contain parasites that are dangerous for dogs.
Seeds and fruit pits can cause choking or intestinal blockages and some contain cyanide which is toxic to dogs.
Xylitol causes an insulin reaction in dogs which can lead to liver failure within a few days. It’s found in many candies, gums, toothpastes, and pastries.
Greasy, fatty table scraps can cause pancreatitis in dogs. Pancreatitis is an inflammation of the pancreas caused when too much digestive enzyme
is produced. Affected dogs may have bloody vomit or diarrhea and suffer dehydration and even death.

Snacks shared with your dog need to be checked for hidden ingredients. Some foods such as cookies, gravies, and even some baby foods, can
contain chocolate, nuts, onions, excessive salt or sugar, or other items dangerous for dogs. Keeping garbage cans secured is a good idea too.

Pennies are another danger to dogs worth mentioning. Those dated after 1981 are made from zinc with a thin copper coating. A dog swallowing just
one of these pennies can suffer damage to red blood cells and kidney failure, due to zinc poisoning.

If you suspect your dog has consumed something toxic, call your vet right away. Hesitation can prove fatal.

Most doting dog owners, especially children, love to share snacks with their best friend but these should be healthful foods, approved by a
veterinarian. A little awareness and caution can prevent a tragedy.
 Ingredients to avoid
Ingredients are listed by category, to search within this page please press control-F to perform a search for a
specific ingredient if you don't know the category.

This is not a comprehensive list of dangerous and/or poor quality ingredients, but it names most of the ones
that are used especially in lower-end foods and should be avoided. The list will change and possibly grow as
my research progresses.

Additives
Glyceryl A lipophilic non-ionic surfactant with HLB of 3.6 - 4.2. It has effects of emulsification, dispersion,
Monostearate foaming, defoaming, starch anti-aging and fat agglomeration control, and is widely used in
foodstuffs, cosmetic, medicine and plastic processing industries. It is an emulsifier used the most
widely and in the largest quantities in the foodstuff industry.

A thickening, emulsifying, antisticking and antistalant agent. Can contain up to 200 ppm butylated
hydroxytoluene (BHT) as a preservative (see also BHT). Depending on method of manufacture, it
can also contain glyceryl distearate (42-44%), glyceryl tristearate (20-23%), free glycerol (3-5%).
Other impurities include mono-, di-, and triesters of related fatty acids as well as unreacted fatty
acids. Due to the uncertainty of chemical additives, this ingredient should be avoided.

Phosphoric Acid A clear colorless liquid, H3PO4, used in fertilizers, detergents, food flavoring, and
pharmaceuticals.

A harmless but unnecessary ingredient, used in inexpensive, poor quality dog food as flavoring,
emulsifier and discoloration inhibitor. Used for example as a flavoring for Coca Cola.

Propylene Glycol A colorless viscous hygroscopic liquid, CH3CHOHCH2OH, used in antifreeze solutions, in
hydraulic fluids, and as a solvent.

Used as humectant in semi-moist kibble to keep it from drying out. May be toxic if consumed in
large amounts, and should definitely not be an ingredient in a food an animal will eat daily for
weeks, months or even years of its life. In countries of the European Union, propylene glycol is
not cleared as a general-purpose food grade product or direct food additive.
Binders
Corn Gluten I have not been able to locate an official definition of this product, but since it is contained in only
one formulation of one manufacturer (Excel Chunks/Mini Chunks), I assume it is the same as
"Corn Gluten Meal".

An inexpensive by-product of human food processing which offers very little nutritional value and
serves mainly to bind food together. It is not a harmful ingredient but should be avoided simply
for its poor nutritional value and quality.

Wheat Gluten AAFCO: The tough, viscid nitrogenous substance remaining when wheat is washed to remove the
starch.

An inexpensive byproduct of human food processing with almost no nutritional value left, serves
mostly as a binder.
Carbohydrate Sources
Brewers Rice Also appears in ingredient lists as ground Brewers Rice.
 AAFCO: The small milled fragments of rice kernels that have been separated from the larger
kernels of milled rice.

A processed rice product that is missing many of the nutrients contained in whole ground rice and
brown rice. Contrary to what many pet food companies want to make you believe, this is not a
high quality ingredient, just much cheaper than whole grain rice.

Cereal Food Fines AAFCO: Particles of breakfast cereals obtained as a byproduct of their processing.

An inexpensive byproduct of human food processing of unknown source, quality, possible

chemical residue, sweeteners or other additives.

Feeding Oat Meal AAFCO: Feeding oat meal is obtained in the manufacture of rolled oat groats or rolled oats and
consists of broken oat groats, oat groat chips, and floury portions of the oat groats, with only such
quantity of finely ground oat hulls as is unavoidable in the usual process of commericial milling.

A food-grade fractionated grain, byproduct from human food processing, that is not as
nutritionally valuable as the product obtained from whole oats.

Grain AAFCO: The dried material resulting from drying the water soluble materials after separation of
Fermentation suspended solids from grain fermentation.
Solubles
An inexpensive byproduct of human food and beverage production which adds little or no
nutritional value to pet foods.

Maltodextrins & I have not been able to locate an official definition for this product so far.
Fermentation
Solubles A brewery byproduct much like "grain fermentation solubles", with some maltodextrin from
malted barley. Better suited for use in short term feeding like e.g. livestock than as an ingredient in
pet food.

Potato Product AAFCO: Potato pieces, peeling, culls, etc., obtained from the manufacture of processed potato
products for human consumption.

A cheap byproduct of human food processing that has been stripped of much of the nutritional
benefits that whole, fresh potatos offer.

Soy Flour AAFCO: The finely powdered material resulting from the screened and graded product after
removal of most of the oil from selected, sound, cleaned and dehulled soybeans by a mechanical
or solvent extraction process.

Much of the nutritional value is lost already during processing of the grain to flour. May contain
particles of hull, germ, and the offal from the tail of the mill.
Coloring Agents
Blue 2 (artificial The color additive FD&C Blue No. 2 is principally the disodium salt of 2-(1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-5-
color) sulfo-2H-indol-2-ylidene)- 2,3-dihydro-3-oxo-1H-indole-5-sulfonic acid with smaller amounts of
the disodium salt of 2-(1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-7-sulfo-2H-indol-2-ylidene)-2,3-dihydro-3-oxo-1H-
indole-5-sulfonic acid and the sodium salt of 2-(1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indol-2-ylidene)-2,3-
dihydro-3-oxo-1H-indole-5-sulfonic acid. Additionally, FD&C Blue No. 2 is obtained by heating
 indigo (or indigo paste) in the presence of sulfuric acid. The color additive is isolated and
subjected to purification procedures. The indigo (or indigo paste) used above is manufactured by
the fusion of N-phenylglycine (prepared from aniline and formaldehyde) in a molten mixture of
sodamide and sodium and potassium hydroxides under ammonia pressure. The indigo is isolated
and subjected to purification procedures prior to sulfonation.

The largest study suggested, but did not prove, that this dye caused brain tumors in male mice.
The FDA concluded that there is "reasonable certainty of no harm", but personally I'd rather avoid
this ingredient and err on the side of caution.

Red 40 (artificial The color additive FD&C Red No. 40 is principally the disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(2-
color) methoxy-5-methyl-4-sulfophenyl)azo]-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid.

The most widely used food dye. While this is one of the most-tested food dyes, the key mouse
tests were flawed and inconclusive. An FDA review committee acknowledged problems, but said
evidence of harm was not "consistent" or "substantial." Like other dyes, Red 40 is used mainly in
junk foods. Personally I'd rather avoid this ingredient and err on the side of caution.

Titanium Dioxide A white powder, TiO2, used as an exceptionally opaque white pigment and dough conditioner.

Non toxic but an unnecessary ingredient that could just as well be left out.

Yellow 5 (artificial The color additive FD&C Yellow No. 5 is principally the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-
color) (4-sulfophenyl)-4- [4-sulfophenyl-azo]-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid (CAS Reg. No. 1934-21-
0). To manufacture the additive, 4-amino-benzenesulfonic acid is diazotized using hydrochloric
acid and sodium nitrite. The diazo compound is coupled with 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-
sulfophenyl)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid or with the methyl ester, the ethyl ester, or a salt of
this carboxylic acid. The resulting dye is purified and isolated as the sodium salt.

The second most widely used coloring can cause mild allergic reactions, primarily in aspirin-
sensitive persons.

Yellow 6 (artificial The color additive FD&C Yellow No. 6 is principally the disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-
color) sulfophenyl)azo]-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid (CAS Reg. No. 2783-94-0). The trisodium salt of 3-
hydroxy-4-[(4- sulfophenyl)azo]-2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid may be added in small amounts.
The color additive is manufactured by diazotizing 4-aminobenzenesulfonic acid using
hydrochloric acid and sodium nitrite or sulfuric acid and sodium nitrite. The diazo compound is
coupled with 6-hydroxy-2-naphthalene-sulfonic acid. The dye is isolated as the sodium salt and
dried. The trisodium salt of 3-hydroxy-4-[(4-sulfophenyl)azo]-2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid
which may be blended with the principal color is prepared in the same manner except the diazo
benzenesulfonic acid is coupled with 3-hydroxy-2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid.

Industry-sponsored animal tests indicated that this dye, the third most widely used, causes tumors
of the adrenal gland and kidney. In addition, small amounts of several carcinogens contaminate
Yellow 6. However, the FDA reviewed those data and found reasons to conclude that Yellow 6
does not pose a significant cancer risk to humans. Yellow 6 may also cause occasional allergic
reactions. Another ingredient I would rather avoid and err on the side of caution rather than risking
my pet's health.
Fat Sources
Animal Fat AAFCO: Obtained from the tissues of mammals and/or poultry in the commercial processes of
rendering or extracting. It consists predominantly of glyceride esters of fatty acids and contains no
additions of free fatty acids. If an antioxidant is used, the common name or names must be
indicated, followed by the words "used as a preservative".
 Note that the animal source is not specified and is not required to originate from "slaughtered"
animals. The rendered animals can be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality
or contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or
dying prior to slaughter), goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters,
restaurant and supermarket refuse and so on.

Beef Tallow AAFCO: Fat with titer above 40 degrees Celsius, obtained from the tissue of cattle in the
commercial process of rendering. Also called Beef Fat.

Dogs and cats like the taste of this fat, so it is often used to make low-quality food more palatable.
Beef tallow is very low in linoleic acid and much cheaper for the pet food industry to use than a
good quality vegetable oil or nutritionally rich chicken fat.

Lard AAFCO: The rendered fat of swine.

Very low in linoleic acid but very attractive to pets, used to make poor quality food more
appealing. Few nutritional benefits.

Poultry Fat AAFCO: Obtained from the tissue of poultry in the commercial process of rendering or extracting.
It shall contain only the fatty matter natural to the product produced under good manufacturing
practices and shall contain no added free fatty acids or other materials obtained from fat. It must
contain not less than 90 percent total fatty acids and not more than 3 percent of unsaponifiables
and impurities. It shall have a minimum titer of 33 degrees Celsius. If an antioxidant is used, the
common name or names must be indicated, followed by the word "preservative(s)".

Note how in this product the source is not defined as "slaughtered poultry". The rendered fowl can
be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or contamination. Any kind of
animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior to slaughter),
turkey, chicken, geese, buzzard, seagulls, misc. roadkill, birds euthanized at shelters and so on.

Vegetable Oil AAFCO: The product of vegetable origin obtained by extracting the oil from seeds or fruits which
are processed for edible purposes.

The source vegetables for this oil (and therefore the nutrient properties or lack thereof) are
unknown. Wouldn't you like to know just what exactly you are feeding your pet?
Fiber Sources
Cellulose AAFCO: Purified, mechanically disintegrated cellulose prepared by processing alpha cellulose
obtained as a pulp from fibrous plant materials.

Dried wood is the most common source for cellulose (I'm not kidding.). It is cleaned, processed
into a fine powder and used to add bulk and consistency to cheap pet foods. I would consider this
ingredient appropriate for termites, but certainly not for dogs or cats.

Corn Bran AAFCO: The outer coating of the corn kernel.

An inexpensive source of fiber that serves as a filler ingredient to add bulk to poor quality pet
food.

Corn Cellulose AAFCO: A product obtained from the cell walls of corn.
 Obtained by use of a chemical process, it is used to add bulk and consistency to cheap pet foods
and has no nutritional value.

Oat Hulls I have not been able to locate an official definition for this product so far.

Most likely what is left over from dehulling the whole oat kernels after harvesting, comparable to
peanut hulls. It is not the same as oat bran (the hull that protects the grain itself), which is a quality
source of dietary fiber and removed prior to rolling and/or flaking. Thumbs down for this filler
ingredient.

Peanut Hulls AAFCO: The outer hull of the peanut shell.

No nutritional value whatsoever, and are used exclusively as a cheap filler ingredient. Possibility
of pesticide residues being present.

Rice Hulls AAFCO: The outer covering of rice.

An inexpensive byproduct of human food processing, serving as a source of fiber that is

considered a filler ingredient.

Soybean Mill Run AAFCO: Composed of soybean hulls and such bean meats that adhere to the hulls which results
from normal milling operations in the production of dehulled soybean meal.

An inexpensive byproduct of human food processing, commonly referred to as 'floor sweepings'.

An inexpensive filler with no real nutritional value.

Wheat Mill Run May also appear as "Wheat Middlings".

AAFCO: Coarse and fine particles of wheat bran and fine particles of wheat shorts, wheat germ,
wheat flour and offal from the "tail of the mill".

An inexpensive byproduct of human food processing, commonly referred to as 'floor sweepings'.

An inexpensive filler with no real nutritional value.
Flavoring Agents
Animal Digest AAFCO: A material which results from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and
undecomposed animal tissue. The animal tissues used shall be exclusive of hair, horns, teeth,
hooves and feathers, except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory
practice and shall be suitable for animal feed. If it bears a name descriptive of its kind or flavor(s),
it must correspond thereto.

A cooked-down broth made from unspecified parts of unspecified animals. The animals used can
be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or contamination. Any kind of
animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior to slaughter),
goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters, restaurant and supermarket
refuse and so on.

Digest May also appear as dried, or spray dried. Sometimes the type and part of animals used is specified,
such as in "Chicken Digest", "Lamb Digest" or "Poultry Liver Digest"

AAFCO: Material which results from chemical and/or enzymatic hydrolysis of clean and
 undecomposed animal tissue. The animal tissues used shall be exclusive of hair, horns, teeth,
hooves and feathers, except in such trace amounts as might occur unavoidably in good factory
practice and shall be suitable for animal feed. .

A cooked-down broth made from specified, or worse, unspecified parts of specified or unspecified
animals (depending on the type of digest used). If the source is unspecified (e.g. "Animal" or
"Poultry", the animals used can be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or
contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or
dying prior to slaughter), goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters,
restaurant and supermarket refuse and so on.

Flavor A substance, such as an extract or spice, that add flavor to a product.

The manufacturer may or may not give more detailed information about what is used for flavoring
and whether it is made from a natural or chemical substance.

Glandular Meal I have not been able to locate an official definition for this product so far.

Since it is used as a "source of liver flavor" in poor quality foods, it is safe to assume that it is a
meal obtained from the livers and other glands of various, unspecified animals. As with all
generic, unspecified ingredients, it is wise to avoid.
Fruits & Vegetables
Apple Pomace AAFCO: The mixture of apple skins, pulp, and crushed seeds.

An inexpensive byproduct of human food processing. Does not contain the whole complement of
nutrients as whole fresh or dried apples.

Citrus Pulp Citrus Pulp is the dried residue of peel, pulp and seeds of oranges, grapefruit and other citrus fruit.

This inexpensive byproduct is mainly used as a bulk carbohydrate concentrate in cattle feed but
also added as a source of fiber in dog food. Since the peel and some twigs and leaves are also
included, there is a possibility of residues from pesticides and synthetic fertilizers.

Grape Pomace AAFCO: The mixture of grape skins, pulp, and crushed seeds.

An inexpensive byproduct left over from pressing grapes for juice or wine. The product
contributes some fiber but otherwise has little to no nutritinal value. Grapes have also shown to
contain a substance that is toxic to dogs, so they should not be fed at all.

Preservatives
BHA Butylated Hydroxysanisole - a white, waxy phenolic antioxidant, C11H16O2, used to preserve fats
and oils, especially in foods.

Banned from human use in many countries but still permitted in the US. Possible human
carcinogen, apparently carcinogenic in animal experiments. The oxidative characteristics and/or
metabolites of BHA and BHT may contribute to carcinogenicity or tumorigenicity.

BHT Butylated Hydroxytoluene - a crystalline phenolic antioxidant, C15H24O, used to preserve fats
 and oils, especially in foods.

Banned from human use in many countries but still permitted in the US. Possible human
carcinogen, apparently carcinogenic in animal experiments. The oxidative characteristics and/or
metabolites of BHA and BHT may contribute to carcinogenicity or tumorigenicity.

Ethoxyquin 6-ethoxy-1,2-dihydro-2,2,4-trimethylquinoline. Antioxidant; also a post-harvest dip to prevent

scald on apples and pears.

Originally developed by Monsanto as a stabilizer for rubber, Ethoxyquin has also been used as a
pesticide for fruit and a color preservative for spices, and later for animal feed. The original FDA
permit for use as stabilizer in animal feed limited use to two years and did not include pet food,
but it falls under the same legal category. It has never been proven to be safe for the lifespan of a
companion animal.It has been linked to thyroid, kidney, reproductive and immune related illnesses
as well as cancer, but so far no conclusive, reliable research results either for the safety of this
product or against it have not been obtained. Monsanto conducted research years ago, but results
were so inconclusive due to unprofessional conduct and documentation that the FDA demanded
another study. There are currently several studies underway to determine whether Ethoxyquin is
safe or not, and until those studies are completed, pet food suppliers may continue to use
Ethoxyquin. This is how things stand after about 6 years, and no new details have emerged so far.

Propyl Gallate Also known as Gallic Acid or Propyl Ester. It is made from natural Gallic Acid, which is obtained
by the hydrolysis of tannins from Tara Pods.

Used as an antioxidant to stabilize cosmetics, food packaging materials, and foods containing fats.
I have not found conclusive evidence either for or against the safety of this product, but it is
suspected of causing liver diseases and cancer, so once again personally I prefer to err on the side
of caution. Mixed tocopherols, citric acid and rosemary extract are effective, all-natural
alternatives - just more expensive.
Protein Sources
Beef & Bone Meal AAFCO: The rendered product from beef tissues, including bone, exclusive of any added blood,
hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents, except in such amounts as
may occur unavoidably in good processing practices.

A byproduct made from beef parts which are not suitable for human consumption. It can
incorporate the entire cow, including the bones, but the quality cuts of meat are always removed.
This is an inexpensive, low quality ingredient used to boost the protein percentage.

Blood Meal AAFCO: Blood Meal is produced from clean, fresh animal blood, exclusive of all extraneous
material such as hair, stomach belchings and urine except as might occur unavoidably in good
manufacturing process. A large portion of the moisture is usually removed by a mechanical
dewatering process or by condensing by cooking to a semi-solid state. The semi-solid blood mass
is then transferred to a rapid drying facility where the more tightly bound water is rapidly
removed. The minimum biological activity of lysine shall be 80%.

An inexpensive protein booster. You have no way of knowing what type of animal the blood came
from or what residues of hormones, medications or other substances are in this product. It has a
better use as fertilizer than as a dog food ingredient.

Chicken AAFCO: Consists of the dry, ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcass of slaughtered chicken,
Byproduct Meal such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, and intestines -- exclusive of feathers except in such
amounts as might occur unavoidably in good processing practices.

Chicken byproducts are much less expensive and less digestible than the chicken muscle meat.The
 ingredients of each batch can vary drastically in ingredients (heads, feet, bones etc.) as well as
quality, thus the nutritional value is also not consistent. Don't forget that byproducts consist of any
parts of the animal OTHER than meat. If there is any use for any part of the animal that brings
more profit than selling it as "byproduct", rest assured it will appear in such a product rather than
in the "byproduct" dumpster.

Corn Distillers Distillers Dried Grains with solubles (DDGS) is the product obtained by condensing and drying
Dried Grains With the stillage that remains after fermenting the starch in corn or milo in the production of ethyl
Solubles alcohol.

An inexpensive byproduct used as protein filler in cheap dog foods. Its amino acids are poorly
balanced, not very digestible, have a high fiber content and nutritional value can vary greatly from
batch to batch. Better suited as cattle feed.

Corn Germ Meal AAFCO: Ground corn germ which consists of corn germ with other parts of the corn kernel from
which part of the oil has been removed and is obtained from either a wet or dry milling
manufacturing process of corn meal, corn grits, hominy feed, or other corn products.

An inexpensive by-product of human food processing, rich in protein but sadly often used as a
booster in poor quality foods. It is not a harmful ingredient but should not rank high in the
ingredient list of a quality product.

Corn Gluten Meal AAFCO: The dried residue from corn after the removal of the larger part of the starch and germ,
and the separation of the bran by the process employed in the wet milling manufacture of corn
starch or syrup, or by enzymatic treatment of the endosperm.

An inexpensive by-product of human food processing which contains some protein but serves
mainly to bind food together. It is not a harmful ingredient but should not rank high in the
ingredient list of a quality product.

Fish Meal AAFCO: The clean, rendered, dried ground tissue of undecomposed whole fish or fish cuttings,
either or both, with or without the extraction of part of the oil.

Like with all other animal sources, if a type isn't specified, you never know what type or quality of
fish is used.
According to US Coast Guard regulations, all fish meal not destined for human consumption must
be conserved with Ethoxyquin (unless the manufacturer has a special permit). This preservative is
banned from use in foods for human consumption except for the use of very small quantities as a
color preservative for spices. So unless the manufacturer either presents a permit or states "human
grade" fish or fish meal is used, you can be pretty sure Ethoxyquin is present in the food even if it
is not listed.

Liver Meal AAFCO: The dried product of ground hepatic glands of mammals.

Whenever the word 'meat' or the name of an organ appear by themselves (without a species) on a
pet food label, there is no way to know which kind of animal it came from. It could be horse liver,
goat, duck, pig, or even skunk or other animals of questionable origin.

Meat & Bone Meal AAFCO: The rendered product from mammal tissues, with or without bone, exclusive of any
added blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents except in
such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices.
 The animal parts used can be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or
contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or
dying prior to slaughter), goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters
and so on. It can also include pus, cancerous tissue, and decomposed (spoiled) tissue.

Meat Meal AAFCO: The rendered product from mammal tissues, exclusive of any added blood, hair, hoof,
horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents except in such amounts as may occur
unavoidably in good processing practices.

The animal parts used can be obtained from any source, so there is no control over quality or
contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or
dying prior to slaughter), goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill, animals euthanized at shelters
and so on. It can also include pus, cancerous tissue, and decomposed (spoiled) tissue.

Pork & Bone Meal AAFCO: The rendered product from pork tissues, including bone, exclusive of any added blood,
hair, hoof, skin, manure, stomach and rumen contents, except in such amounts as may occur
unavoidably in good processing practices.

A byproduct made from pork parts which are not suitable for human consumption. It can
incorporate the entire pig, including the bones, but the quality cuts of meat are always removed.
This is an inexpensive, low quality ingredient used to boost the protein percentage.

Poultry Byproduct AAFCO: Consists of the ground, rendered, clean parts of the carcasses of slaughtered poultry,
Meal such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, and intestines, exclusive of feathers except in such amounts
as might occur unavoidably in good processing practices.

The parts used can be obtained from any slaughtered fowl, so there is no control over the quality
and consistency of individual batches. Poultry byproducts are much less expensive and less
digestible than chicken meat.The ingredients of each batch can vary drastically in ingredients
(heads, feet, bones, organs etc.) as well as quality, thus the nutritional value is also not consistent.
Don't forget that byproducts consist of any parts of the animal OTHER than meat. If there is any
use for any part of the animal that brings more profit than selling it as "byproduct", rest assured it
will appear in such a product rather than in the "byproduct" dumpster.

Poultry Meal AAFCO: The clean combination of poultry flesh and skin with or without bone. Does not contain
feathers, heads, feet or entrails. If from a particular source it may state so (i.e. chicken, turkey etc).

Note how in this product the source is not defined as "slaughtered poultry".The manufacturer does
not disclose the species (or the mix of species) of the poultry used. The fowl can be obtained from
any source, so there is no control over quality or contamination. Any kind of animal can be
included: "4-D animals" (dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior to slaughter), turkey, chicken,
geese, buzzard, seagulls, misc. roadkill, birds euthanized at shelters and so on.

Soybean Meal AAFCO: The product obtained by grinding the flakes which remain after removal of most of the
oil from soybeans by a solvent or mechanical extraction process.

A poor quality protein filler used to boost the protein content of low quality pet foods. Has a
biologic value lof ess than 50% of chicken meal.
Supplements
Bone Phosphate Bone Phosphate is the residue of bones that have been treated first in a caustic solution then in a
 hydrochloric acid solution, and thereafter precipitated with lime and dried.

A highly processed feed-grade supplement to balance the calcium and phosphorus content of a
product.

Salt Also listed as Sodium Chloride. A colorless or white crystalline solid, chiefly sodium chloride,
used extensively in ground or granulated form as a food seasoning and preservative. May also
appear in ingredient list as "Iodized Salt" (iodine supplement added), "Sea Salt" (as opposed to salt
mined from underground deposits) or "Sodium Chloride" (chemical expression).

While salt is a necessary mineral, it is also generally present in sufficient quantities in the
ingredients pet foods include. Just like for humans, too much sodium intake is unhealthy for
animals. In poor quality foods it is often used in large amounts to add flavor and make the food
more interesting.

Mineral Oil Any of various light hydrocarbon oils, especially a distillate of petroleum.

Mineral oil functions as a laxative and stool softener. I have not found any evidence of any other
health benefits. Tells a lot about the product it is used in, doesn't it?

Yeast Culture AAFCO: The dried product composed of yeast and the media on which it is grown, dried in such a
manner as to preserve the fermenting activity of the yeast.

An unnecessary, feed-grade ingredient in pet foods, added mainly as a flavoring to make

inexpensive food more attractive. Lacks the nutritional value of higher quality yeast supplements.
The media on which the yeast was grown is not identified. Also a potential allergen for some dogs.

Yeast AAFCO: The soluble portion of yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and the media in which is
Fermentation produced.
Solubles
A feed-grade ingredient in pet foods, added as a vitamin B supplement. It is harmless, but lacks
the nutrients of higher quality yeast supplements. The media on which the yeast was grown is not
identified. Also a potential allergen for some dogs.

Sweeteners
Cane Molasses AAFCO: A by-product of the manufacture of sucrose from sugar cane. It must contain not less
than 43% total sugars expressed as invert.

Sugar or sweetener is an absolutely unnecessary ingredient in pet foods, added to make the
product more attractive. Continuous intake can promote hypoglycemia, obesity, nervousness,
cataracts, tooth decay, arthritis and allergies. Pets also get addicted to foods that contain sugars, so
it can be a tough piece of work to make them eat something healthier.

Corn Syrup A syrup prepared from cornstarch, used in industry and in numerous food products as a sweetener.

Sugar or sweetener is an absolutely unnecessary ingredient in pet foods, added to make the
product more attractive. Continuous intake can promote hypoglycemia, obesity, nervousness,
cataracts, tooth decay, arthritis and allergies. Pets also get addicted to foods that contain sugars, so
it can be a tough piece of work to make them eat something healthier.

Fructose A very sweet sugar, C6H12O6, occurring in many fruits and honey and used as a preservative for
 food and as an intravenous nutrient.

A monosaccharide found naturally in fresh fruit and honey. It is obtained by the inversion of
sucrose by means of the enzyme invertase. Used in small quantities it serves as a nutrient for
probiotics, specifically bifidobacteria, which ferment it and produce beneficial enzymes.

Sorbitol A white, sweetish, crystalline alcohol, C6H8(OH)6, found in various berries and fruits or prepared
synthetically and used as a flavoring agent, a sugar substitute for people with diabetes, and a
moisturizer in cosmetics and other products.

Sugar or sweetener is an absolutely unnecessary ingredient in pet foods, added to make the
product more attractive. Continuous intake can promote hypoglycemia, obesity, nervousness,
cataracts, tooth decay, arthritis and allergies. Pets also get addicted to foods that contain sugars, so
it can be a tough piece of work to make them eat something healthier.

Sugar Can include sucrose, cane sugar, caramel, corn syrup and others.

Sugar or sweetener is an absolutely unnecessary ingredient in pet foods, added to make the
product more attractive. Continuous intake can promote hypoglycemia, obesity, nervousness,
cataracts, tooth decay, arthritis and allergies. Pets also get addicted to foods that contain sugars, so
it can be a tough piece of work to make them eat something healthier.
Dl-Alpha Synthetic vitamin E, also listed as Dl-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopherol
Acetate Only about half as effective as natural vitamin E and not as readily available to the body.
Vitamins
Menadione Vitamin K3, synthetic vitamin K.
Sodium Bisulfate
Feed grade. Also listed as Menadione Dimethyl-Pyrimidinol Bisulfate, Menadione Dimethyl-
Pyrimidinol Bisulfite, Menadione Sodium Bisulfate Complex, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite and
Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex.

Unnecessary ingredient in dog food. This synthetic version of vitamin K has not been specifically
approved for long term use, such as in pet food. It has been linked to many serious health
issues. More Details