SPF is the
only botanic protein fibre in the world, a newly
born guard to mankind's skin. This fibre appears from
inexpensive in price, and using it will not cause the
predatory development on the resources but is helpful
to resources' recovery and redevelopment. The
soybean a plant which has enormous source and production of SPF will not bring pollution to the
affluent in nutrition. As it contains 18 amino acids environment, as the accessory and auxiliary agent
beneficial to the human body, and added anti-bacterial used are not poisonous, while the residue after the
elements, SPF offers a protective function to the skin. protein extracted can be still used as feed. SPF has
SPF has been praised locally and internationally by not only the superiorities of the natural fibres but also
industry expert as the healthy and comfortable fibre the physical properties of synthetic ones. SPF meets
of 21st Century. The main component of soybean fibre the people's demand of comfortable and beautiful
is it possesses the superiorities of many natural fibres wearing and also conforms to the trend of easy care.
and synthesised ones and it is quite similar to those It is the potential material for middle and high class
of cashmere and silk, featuring fine denier, low density clothing in textile industry.
and good tenacity and elongation. The resulting fabric
can give cashmere-like hand touch, silk-like luster, History of SPF
cotton-like moisture conduction and wool-like warm In 1932-33 the Ford Motor Company spent millions of
retentiveness. The invention of SPF is the contribution dollars on soybean research. Henry Ford promoted
of mankind to the protection of natural rare minerals, the soybean, helping to develop uses for it both in
the protection of resources, the care of the food and in industrial products. By 1935 every Ford
environment and the consideration of the global car had soy involved in its manufacture. For example,
balance. It is an active fibre, a new green textile fibre. soybean oil was used to paint the automobiles as
SPF is an advanced textile fibre. It is also known as well as fluid for shock absorbers.
"vegetable cashmere" or "soy silk." It is made from In 1935, Ford hired chemists Robert Boyer and Frank
the soybean cake after oiling by new bioengineering Calvert to produce artificial silk. They succeeded in
technology. Firstly, the spherical protein is distilled making a textile fibre of spun soy protein fibres,
from the soybean cake and refined. Secondly, under hardened or tanned in a formaldehyde bath, which
the functioning of auxiliary agent and biological was given the name Azlon by the Federal Trade
enzyme, the space structure of spherical protein Commission. The production started in 1939 and fibres
changes, and then protein spinning liquid is confected were used to make upholstery for motorcars. It was well as the contribution and assistance of many other
by adding high polymers, and then thirdly, after the also usable in the making of suits, felt hats, necktie departments and organisation, soybean fibre has
liquid is cooked, the 0.9~3.0dtex fibre is produced by and overcoats. come into birth and its industrialisation started.
wet spinning, and stabilised by acetalising, and finally
Though pilot production of Azlon reached 5,000 pounds China began the commercial production of soybean
cut into short staples after curling and thermoforming.
per day in 1940, it never reached the commercial fibre in 2001 in line with the call from China National
SPF is praised as the health, comfortable and green market. Then the production was taken over by the Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC). According rough
fibre of the new century. Its major material is soybean Drackett Products Co. and a new plant was set up in statistics, over 500 textile mills have been concerned
protein from the farmers, massive in quantity and 1949. After 10 years of hard work of Li Guanqi's as with the development and application of soybean fibre.
Physical parameters of soybean fibre • Good colour fastness: The original colour of SPF is Blending of SPF
ivory like tussah colour. It can be dyed by acid dyes SPF can be blended well with other fibres to give
No. Items Unit Figure and active dyes especially the colour is quite fresh more features.
1 Moisture regain Per cent 8.6 and lustrous with the later dyes while quite stable 1) With cashmere: Blended with cashmere fibre, SPF
2 Friction force F/gf 33.4 in the sunshine and perspiration. Compared with enhances the hand as well as lowers the
3 Breaking strength CN/dtex =>2.5 silk products, the problem of freshness of colour manufacturing cost of cashmere products. Gives
4 Drape coefficient Per cent 7 and stability of dyeing superior natural softness, lustres and comfort, as
• Function of health: SPF possesses many amino well as anti-pilling and drape properties along with
5 Antistatic property g/cm2 10.33
acids necessary to human's body, so this sole intimacy to skin, easy care. E.g. suitable for
6 Elastic recover Per cent 55.4 botanic protein fibre has the function of health that cashmere sweater, shawl and coat.
7 Crimp ratio Per cent 1.65 no other fibre processes. Meeting people's skin,
2) With mercerised wool: Blend gives a kind of knit
the amino acid in soybean protein can activate the
fabric quite similar to that of cashmere with colour
Microscopic features collagen protein in the skin, resist tickling and
more abundant and better mercerised effect.
Vertical shear of SPF is irregular and has moisture evaporate the skin. Bacteria resistant elements
Produces excellent results taking advantage of
absorbing grooves. When lengthwise fibres are are integrated in fibre's molecule chain, which
both fibres, the lustrous, soft hand and strength of
examined microscopically, longitudinal lines called makes the fabrics keep the property of resisting
soybean fibre, and the elasticity and heat-retaining
striations are seen. In cross section it appears coli bacillus, staphylococcus aureus and candida
properties of wool. As its shrinkage is less, it is
dumbbell shaped and has Island-in-a sea structure. albicans permanently, this avoids the shortcoming
of not permanent effect when the anti-bacteria easier to wash and preserve. Spinning of high-
function is added to the yarn when finishing count yarn is possible. E.g. suitable for wool
sweater, interlock underwear and blanket
• Good physical property: Breaking strength of the
single SPF is over 3.0CNdtex, which is higher than 3) With silk: Combination has not only lustre and
that of wool, cotton and silk and only lower than elegance of silk but also a good draping. At the
that of polyester fibre of high intension. By now, same time, provides a solution to problems of
1.27dtex fibre can be spun into 6dtex yarn with silk, such as poor resistance to staining from
high quality, which can be used for high-quality and perspiration and water, sticky to skin being wet,
high-density fabrics. Also, fabric of SPF has poor light fastness and moisture permeability.
outstanding anti-crease, easy-wash and fast-dry Higher quality can be achieved at a lower cost.
Vertical shear of SPF under Cross section of SPF under
Electron microscope Electron microscope property E.g. suitable for printing silk, knitting underwear,
• Anti-ultraviolet: Its anti-ultraviolet property is sleepwear, shirts and evening dress
superior to cotton fibre, much more superior to 4) With combed cotton: Compared to cotton fabrics,
Characteristics of SPF viscose and silk. The absorptive of ultraviolet it has softer hand, lustre, better moisture absorption
• Cashmere feel: The fabric made of SPF is soft, radiation could reach upto 99.7 per cent and ventilation, quick dry, better bacteria
smooth, light. It has cashmere feel, but smoother • Far infrared function: The emissivity of far-infrared resistance, more comfort for wearing. Blend also
than cashmere; it is as comfortable to the skin as could reach upto 87 per cent, have the function of enhances the drape properties of cotton. E.g.
human's second skin heat-effect, promoting micro circulation of skin and suitable for men's and women's underwear, T-shirt,
• Dry and comfortable: The moisture absorption of enforcing the immunity etc. infant's wear, towel and beddings
SPF is similar to that of cotton fibre, but its • Skin evaporation: Its amino acid can activate the 5) With elastic fibre: Adding a small portion of
ventilation is more superior to of cotton. Knitting collagen protein in the skin, resist tickling and elastic fibre makes fabrics more elastic and easier
fabric of SPF has soft, smooth and light handle which evaporate the skin for washing and caring. It is quite active and
is the same as that of fabrics made from silk blended • Antibacterial: Soybean protein fibre has charming
with cashmere antibacterial properties that resist colibacillus, 6) With polyester and other synthetic fibres: The
• Luxurious appearance: SPF fabric has joyful silky staphylococcus aurous and candica albicans. blends raise the properties of comfort, beauty
lustre with perfect drape and elegant; fabrics of Fabrics made from soy protein fibre and linen or and wrinkling resistance. E.g. suitable for spring
yarn in high count has fine and clear texture and is other fibres are ideal for functional underwear and and summer fashion apparels, underwear, shirt
classical shirting summer wear and sportswear
Conclusion
The invention of SPF is the contribution of mankind to By Vasant R Kothari, Assistant Professor,
the protection of natural rare minerals, the protection NIFT, Bangalore & Pallavi Jain, MFTech
of resources, the care of the environment and the (Student), NIFT Bangalore (Author can be
contacted @ www.vasantkothari.com)
consideration of the global balance. SPF produces a
positive effect on human skin improving its overall
energetic balance. Some of the healthy organic
components prevent early skin aging. SPF offers a
number of great properties for both the wearer and