Textile Final Report 300709

Section – 1: Introduction
1.1 Prelude
Bangladesh export-oriented Readymade Garments (RMG) Manufacturing and

Primary Textile (PT) sector with back up support of the Accessory (trimming
& packaging) industries, contribute 76 percent to total export-earnings of the
country.
The domestic textile industry has made appreciable contribution to the rapid
growth of Bangladesh RMG industry. International RMG buyers preferred
Bangladesh mainly for two reasons: (a) competitive prices of high volume
lower end products and (b) presence of a growing PT industry capable of
ensuring sizable supply of inputs to RMG industry. In fact, the value addition
of the RMG units using the inputs supplied by the local PT industry is much
more as compared to those dependent totally on the imported inputs.
But the export-oriented RMG industry is now at stiff competition because of

global trade liberalization under WTO rules and Agreement on Textiles and
Clothing (ATC), in the quota free world. It is widely believed that the
development of an effective backward linkage along with a well-designed
road map for future growth would have provided safeguard measures to
retain and expand the Bangladesh Textile and RMG export in the quota free
world.
Development of the textiles and RMG industries calls for preparation of a

pragmatic road map with synchronized strategic action plans in respect of
technology, inputs, HRD, quality, productivity, compliances and other trade
promotion aspects. Preparation of Road Map essentially requires up-to-date
1
information in respect of past performances to analyze past and present
situation and draw out conclusions that would serve as a basis for future
courses of action for development of the sector. On the other hand, the
issues related to quality, productivity, compliances and cost minimization
depend on sustainable supply of skilled manpower to the sector.
A major responsibility to ensure a sustainable supply of skilled manpower is

vested on the shoulder of the Department of Textiles (DOT) that came into
being in 1977 under the Ministry of Industry and was placed under the
Ministry of Textiles in 1978. The DOT runs now 4 Degree Colleges, 6
undergraduate level textile institutes offering Diploma in Textile Engineering
and 40 S.S.C. Vocational Institutes offering 10 class equivalent vocational
education in the area of textile technology & garmenting. These Textile
Institutes and Vocational Institutes cover education programs on
conventional textile disciplines such as spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing /
printing-finishing and garmenting. The average student intake of each textile
institute is 160 per annum (in two shifts) and that of each SSC (Secondary
School Certificate) level vocational institutes is 90 per annum. This supply
scale is almost droplet to the fast growing need of the manpower of the
industry.
At present, DOT is the only formal organization that is producing both

operative and supervisory level technical manpower to ensure a sustainable
supply of such essentially needed manpower to the faster growing textile
and RMG sector of Bangladesh. In the recent past quite a large number of
educational & training institutes on S.S.C Vocational Textile, Diploma and
Graduation have been established in the private sector without required
logistic support including adequate teaching staff. This unplanned growth of
the textile education and training facilities in the country will not be helpful
for development of human resource required for fast growing textile industry
of the country.
At present, there is a serious shortage of reliable statistics / information on

the current position of the different sub-sectors of textiles and garment
industry for which development program and action plan suffer badly. Under
this situation it is felt at macro level (government and stakeholders
associations) and at micro-level (industry and business house) to undertake a
survey of the textile and RMG industry of the country. The Ministry of Textiles
& Jute (MOT & J) prepared an MIS report for FY 2001 & 2002. But the MIS
reporting did not continue for the subsequent years and as such the sector is
suffering from acute shortage of information. The DOT has established MIS
and website to complement the objective of the Ministry’s need in respect of
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information and database. But lack of information or updated data is acting
as a barrier to develop the website as reliable source of information about
textile and RMG sector of Bangladesh.
In the backdrop of the situation, the DOT has undertaken this study project
“Survey on Bangladesh Textile Industry and to assess the Requirement of
Textile Technologists” to update the MIS & Database of DOT with the
information suitable for undertaking future strategic plan for the overall
development of the RMG Textile sector.
1.2 Objectives of the Survey
The objectives of the Survey have been to:
• Update the database of the Textile Sector by the survey data up to

2007-2008 (December 2007) and strengthen the electronic website/portal
of DOT making it accessible to the RMG and Textile industries and related
business houses;
• Assess the requirements of the Textile Technologists and suggest the
way to supply them in the shortest possible time. Further, to prepare a
MIS report for the Ministry of Textiles for the year 2007-2008 (upto
December 2007) covering the textile industries in the public and the
private sectors; and
• Prepare a series of PT development recommendations to strengthen

the supply of inputs to both local and export markets. Also to develop a
time-bound action plan, i.e. road map for the implementation of the
recommendations made under the survey.
1.3 Scope of the Survey

The scopes of the Survey are:
• To take inventory of the Textile Sector through the listing of the
industries, along with their installed capacities;
• To conduct field survey to collect data on the capacity, production and
the necessity of manpower and update the existing database of the PT
industry;
• To collect data on the import of required inputs and outputs of textile
industry, such as, chips, raw cotton, man-made fibbers, tows, raw silk,
yarns (cotton, silk, synthetic/acrylic and mod-acrylic), grey fabric and
finished fabrics under cash or back to back L/C, ready made garments
etc.;
• To collect data on the import of capital machinery of spinning,
weaving, knitting, dyeing & printing, common facility machinery,
prefabricated structure, spares and accessories, etc;
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• To estimate domestic consumption of fabrics for different types of
wearing apparels and their sources of supply;
• To estimate the existing and anticipated demand gap of products and
capacity of the sector keeping in view the local and global markets;
• To anticipate the technological change needed for Textile industry to
effectively face the post-MFA era and find out strategy as to how
Bangladesh PTS can gradually attain self-reliance in textile products to
meet domestic and export demand of RMG through new capacity creation
with upgraded technology;
• To suggest how the productivity indicators of PTS, as well as, quality of
the products could be improved for making the whole Textile industry
locally and globally competitive;
• To suggest pragmatic program needed to diversify the PTS product
mixes matching with the need of RMG;
• To evaluate the manpower presently involved in the Sector and to
assess the present institutional capacity for providing technical education
and training to the manpower required for Textile industry and anticipate
the future need of manpower of the Sector by type of skills;
• To assess the training need and develop a comprehensive education
and training requirements needed for the Textile Sector of the country;
• To formulate PT development recommendations, along with roadmap;
• To identify inadequacy of the software and hardware of the existing
installation of DOT database, and to undertake remedial actions for
making it safer, user-friendly and accessible to all relevant users.
• The survey results and the recommendations will be discussed in an
Open Forum (Seminar) participated by the related stakeholders’
associations (e.g., BTMA, BKMEA, BGMEA, BSTMPIA, etc.), Forums of
Textile Technologists, Academics and Government Officials. The relevant
feed-back coming out from the Open Forum will be incorporated for
enrichment of the survey outcomes.
4
1.4 Methodology Followed
After receiving the work order of the assignment the Survey Team members
were mobilised, and the Team Leader briefed them regarding the volume of
work of the survey, including the processes to be followed for effectively
completing the assignment. Published and unpublished reports, different
kinds of literature and statement, list of Textile Mills and Institutions, etc.
were collected from the DOT, including list of the concerned stakeholders.
Necessary training was given to the Field Enumerators and Supervisors
regarding data collection on the basis of data collection
questionnaires/formats. Work Plan and data collection
questionnaires/formats were prepared, pre-tested and submitted to the DOT
for necessary consultation, finalisation and clearance. Upon several
discussions with the concerned personnel of the authority, the following
Questionnaires/Formats were finally cleared for use in collecting necessary
data and information from the mentioned Sub-sectors/entities:
Survey Form-01 : Format for Data Collection from Spinning Mills

Survey Form-02 : Format for Data Collection from Large Weaving Mills
Survey Form-03 : Format for Data Collection from Composite Mills
Survey Form-04 : Format for Data Collection from Specialised Textile &
Power Loom
Survey Form-05 : Format for Data Collection from Knitting Industry
Survey Form-06 : Format for Data Collection from Terry-Towel & Linen
Manufacturing Industries
Survey Form-07 : Format for Data Collection from Dyeing, Printing &
Finishing Industries (Mechanised)
Survey Form-08 : Format for Data Collection from Dyeing Printing &
Finishing Industries (Semi-mechanised)
Survey Form-09 : Format for Data Collection from Synthetic Yarn
Survey Form-10 : Format for Data Collection from Silk Industries
Survey Form-11 : Format for Data Collection from Sewing Thread
Survey Form-12 : Format for Data Collection from Sweater Industries
Survey Form-13 : Format for Data Collection from Textile Colleges, Textile
Diploma Institutes and Textile Training Institutions
Survey Form-14 : Format for Data Collection from:
(i) Association of various Textile Industries
5
(ii) Head Office (HO) of Govt., Autonomous Organisations,
Buying Houses, etc.
Survey Form-15 : Format for Data Collection from Ready Made Garments
(RMG) Industries
6
1.5 Indicators/Variables Considered in the Survey of Textile Sub-sectors
In the survey, the following major indicators/variables were considered:
a) Survey entity identification matters;

b) Survey entity’s:
1. Ownership pattern;
2. Installed capacity and capacity utilization;
3. Investment in land, building and capital machinery;
4. Import of capital machinery and raw materials;
5. Production;
6. Export;
7. Manpower and employment of Textile Technologists
8. Requirement for Textile Technologists;
9. Shortfall in production;
10. Operational status of the entities
11. Entity expansion plan
1.6 Summary Status of the Survey Coverage

Our survey covered 7,542 textile mills and other textile related organizations
which includes 4,519 export-oriented Garments and 17 other organizations.
Moreover, there are 311 Buying Houses, 77 Textile
Institutes/Colleges/Universities offering Textile Degree, Diploma and
Certificates. All these entities were surveyed, and out of these entities, data
has been collected from 6,025 entities and 1,517 entities were found closed.
Table – 1.1 below gives detailed picture.
Table – 1.1: Sub-Sector Wise Survey Scenario

Sl. Sector No. of No. of Percent No. of Percenta Total no. &
N Mills Mills age closed ge % of Mills
o. (data Mills Covered
collected under the
) Survey
A. Public Sector
Mills:
i. Mills under 24 20 83 4 17 24 (100%)
Bangladesh
Textile Mills
Corporation
(BTMC)
Sub-total: 24 20 83 4 17 24 (100%)
B. Private Sector
Mills:
i. Spinning Mills 308 281 91 27 9 308 (100%)
ii. Weaving (Large, 655 581 89 74 11 655 (100%)
Medium & Small),
including
Composite
iii. Composite Textile 31 29 94 2 6 31 (100%)
Mills
7
collected under the
) Survey
iv. Specialized 412 409 99 3 1 412 (100%)
Textiles/Power
Loom Units;
(Many of them are
BTMA & BKMEA
Members)
v. Knitting Industry 605 572 95 33 5 605 (100%)
(Most of them are
members of
BKMEA)
vi. Terry-Towel Linen 64 61 95 3 5 64 (100%)
Manufacturing
Industry
vii Dyeing, Printing & 257 250 97 7 3 257(100%)
. Finishing
(Mechanized)
vii Dyeing, Printing & 95 94 99 1 1 95 (100%)
i. Finishing (Semi-
mechanized)
ix Synthetic Yarn 13 13 100 0 0 13 (100%)
Manufacturing
x. Silk Industry 108 80 74 28 26 108 (100%)
xi. Sewing Thread 46 46 100 0 0 46 (100%)
Manufacturing
Units
Sub-total: 2594 2416 93 178 7 2594
(100%)
C. Export-oriented
Garments
Factories:
i. Export-oriented 2,417 1621 67 796 33 2417
Garments (100%)
Factories (Woven)
ii. Export-oriented 1,420 1019 72 401 28 1,420
Garments (100%)
Factories (Knit)
iii. Sweater Industry 682 544 80 138 20 682 (100%)
Sub-total: 4,519 3184 70 1,335 30 4519
(100%)
Total No. of 7,137 5,620 79 1,517 21 7137
Mills/Factories: (100%)
D. Textile No. of Data Percent Textile Percenta Total no. of
Institutes/Colleges Textile Collected age of Institution ge of Textile
/ Universities Instituti data s Closed Institutio Institutions
offering Textile ons collecte (Data not ns Surveyed
Degree, Diploma d given) Closed
and Certificate
i. Under Public 51 51 100 0 0 51 (100%)
Sector
ii. Under Private 26 26 100 0 0 26 (100%)
Sector
Sub-total: 77 77 100 0 0 77 (100%)
E. Buying Houses No. of Data Percenta Buying Percentag Total no. of
Buying Collected ge of Houses e of Buying
Houses data Closed Buying Houses
collected (Data not Houses Surveyed
given) Closed
311 311 100 0 0 311 (100%)
i. Other 21 21 100 0 0 21 (100%)
Organizations
Sub-total: 332 332 100 0 0 332 (100%)
8
collected under the
) Survey
6029 80 20 7546
Grand Total: 7,546 1,517 (100%)
1.7 Obstacles, Hindrances and Problems Faced
• The Proposal for the Survey of Textile Sector was

submitted to DOT on 27 September 2007, but the process of evaluation of
the Proposal was finalised after long 6 months. If the evaluation process
would not take such long time, the survey work could be started in the
beginning of January, 2008. In that case, dry season could be effectively
utilised for collecting necessary data of the survey from the field.
• The DOT issued the Work Order for the Survey on 13

March 2008, whereas, the Consortium got money as the 1st instalment,
that too only 10 percent of the total money on 01 July 2008, which put the
Consortium in to tremendous financial hardship.
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• The Consortium has been conducting the survey work
since the Work Order amid many interruptions, such as, unfavourable
environment during summer, unwillingness of authorities of different
mills/factories showing different causes in providing necessary data and
information.
• Inspite of issuance of request letters by the Secretary of

the MOT, Director, DOT, Chairmen of BGMEA, BTMEA, BKMEA, etc; many
authorities of the concerned mills/factories at the first approach of our
Enumerators’ and Supervisors’ repeated approach for data collection
declined to supply the same, and as a result needed repeated request for
collection of data from those mills/factories, which prolonged data
collection time.
• Apart from the above reasons, a large number of

mills/factories under different sub-sectors shifted their entities from
original locations to un-known places/locations.
The above said causes are the main hindrances on the way of completing
the survey work within the stipulated time (as mentioned in the work
order for the survey of Textile Sectors).
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2.1 Introduction
Databases have been prepared upon collection of necessary and relevant
data from the following sources:
a)Relevant documents collected from Bangladesh Bank, Bureau of
Statistics, EPB, BGMEA, relevant study reports etc.;
b) Different Associations under Textile Sector, DOT and Universities; and
c) Field survey (through visiting Mills/Factories, Buying Houses and
Institutions).
Data Collection from related organizations including relevant study

reports
All national data on production, export, import, consumption etc., relevant to
textile sector/sub-sectors have been collected from Bangladesh Bank, Bureau
of Statistics, EPB, relevant study reports etc.
Data Collection from different Associations under Textile Sector, DOT and
Universities
Sectoral macro data, including name, address, contact no., installed

capacity, production etc. of member mills/factories have been collected from
the following secondary sources:
1. Bangladesh Textile Mills and Exporters Association (BTMEA)
2. Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association
(BGMEA)
3. Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA)
4. Specialized Textiles & Power Loom Manufacturers and Exporters
Association
5. Terry-Towel Linen Manufacturers and Exporters Association
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6. Bangladesh Dyed Yarn Exporters Association (BDYEA)
Data Collection from Field survey (through visiting Mills/Factories, Buying

Houses and Institutions).
Unit-wise detailed data and information were collected from individual units
under the following sub-sectors, with the help of sub-sector specific
questionnaires:
(i) Public Sector Textile Mills: Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation (BTMC)
(ii) Private Sector Textile Mills:
Textile Mills (Spinning and Weaving);
 Specialized Textiles & Power Loom Industries;
 Knitting Industries;
 Terry-Towel Linen Manufacturing Industries;
 Dyeing & Finishing (Mechanized and Semi-mechanized, piece
dyeing & yarn dyeing) Industries;
 Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing (Tow to tops and tops to yarn)
Industries;
 Silk Industries;
 Sewing Thread Manufacturing Industries;
 Sweater Factories; and
 Buying Houses.
For overall up-gradation of database and analysis of the Sectoral issues, the
survey also included Readymade Garments.
Updated Macro Database on different Components of the Textile Sub-sectors,
Derived from both Primary (Field Survey) and Secondary Sources
2.2 Investment
Summary status of investment under different textile sub-sectors has been
given in Table – 2.1 below. Investment comprises of investment in land,
building, capital machinery and other tangible assets. It may be seen from
the Table that, the industrial entities surveyed have made a total investment
of Tk. 406299.93 million. Highest investment has been made in Spinning Tk
211,282.28 then in Knitting Tk 80,055.55 million and in Processing Tk
48,008.00 million respectively.
In this context, it may be noted that, not all industrial units surveyed
provided investment figures. Say for instance, 106 Spinning Mills, 259
Weaving Mills, 22 Composite Textile Mills, 90 Mechanized Dyeing, Printing
and Finishing Mills, 25 Semi-mechanized Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Mills,
60 Power Loom Mills, 250 Knitting Industries and 6 Terry Towel Industries
gave investment figures, and others not, and hence, the total investment
figures under these Sub-sectors have been estimated on the basis of the
investment made by entities who provided us the data as mentioned above.
For more details, Table – 2.1 below and subsequent section may be
consulted.
Table – 2.1: Investment
(Amount in Million Tk.)
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SL. Name Land Building Machin Other Total
No. ery Assets
1 Spinning Industry 25818.9 30169.1 147102. 8191.74 211282.28
0 2 52
2 Large Weaving Mills 2853.13 6234.76 17852.1 3238.96 30179.00
6
3 Composite Mills 474.15 3473.95 23317.9 1323.95 28590.00
5
4 Specialized Textile and Power 231.17 318.80 1829.18 820.85 3200.00
Loom
5 Knitting Industry 9467.12 20249.3 46686.8 3652.21 80055.55
6 6
6 Terry Towel Linen Manufacturing 30.22 80.24 1419.01 608.54 2138.00
Industry
7 Dyeing Printing Finishing 4085.45 12569.0 21643.8 3690.70 41989.00
Industry (Mechanized) 0 4
8 Dyeing Printing Finishing 497.90 288.41 4064.34 1168.35 6019.00
Industry (Semi-Mechanized)
9 Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing 178.95 200.54 2136.31 331.32 2847.11
Total: 43636.9 73584.1 266052. 23026.61 406299.9
9 7 16 3
2.3 Machinery and Installed Capacity
Table – 2.2 below exhibits summary status of the inventory of the Textile
Sector’s Mills/Industries under different Sub-sectors, including their installed
capacity. Yearly yarn production capacity is 1478 m.kg and weaving capacity
2029 m.meters. For getting sub-sectoral detailed ideas, the following Table
and subsequent section may be consulted.
Table–2.2: Structure of Textile Industry Showing Number of Units,

Machine & Production Capacity (As of June 2008)
Sub Machines Installe Unit Productio Producti
- d n on
sect machine Capacity/D Capacity
or Numbers ay / Year (in
million)
Spinning Mills
Public sector 414,240 Kg 109,030 37.07
Spindle
Private sector 7,459,138 Kg 3,669,523 1,247.64
Spindle
Sub-total: 7,873,37 kg 3,778,553 1,285
8
Public sector Rotor 19,312
kg 52,381 17.81
Private sector Rotor 194,193
kg 515,370 175.23
Sub-total: 213,505
kg 567,751 193
Total kg 4,346,304 1,477.74
Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing Industry
Spindle 650,692 Kg 343,417 116.76
Rotor 7,532 Kg 24,458 8.32
Total: 658,224 Kg 367,875 125.08
Weaving mill (Medium & large)
Power Loom 20,987 Meter 1,789,598 608.46
Rapier loom 13,762 Meter 2,752,746 935.93
Air Jet 1,382 Meter 551,784 187.61
Sub-total (a): 36,131 Meter 5,094,128 1,732.00
Specialized Textile and Power Loom
Power Loom 9,080 640,969 217.93
13
(Shuttle)
Rapier Loom 2,205 Meter 203,460 69.18
Air Jet 68 Meter 29,000 9.86
Sub-total (b): 11,353 Meter 873,429 296.97
Total (a+b) 47,484 Meter 5,967,557 2,028.97
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Industry:
Mechanized
Jet & Winch Dyeing 1,750 Eqv. Meter 9,376,752 3,188.10
Sub-total: 1,750 Eqv. Meter 9,376,752 3,188.10
Jigger Dyeing 1,304 Meter 836,386 284.37

Dyeing Machine 484 Eqv. Meter 3,186,696 1,083.48
Sub-total: 1,990 Meter 4,023,082 1,367.85
Flat Bed Screen 178 Meter 233,026 79.23
Printing
Screen Printing 1,212 Meter 7,653 2.60
Roller Printing 14 Meter 87,768 29.84
Rotor Screen 24 Meter 271,100 92.17
Printing
Sub-total: 5,206 Meter 8,645,711 2,939.54
14
Semi-mechanized:
Hand-driven Jigger 961 Meter 540,991 183.94
Hand-driven Roller 520 Meter 541,827 184.22
Printing
Winch Dyeing 53 Eqv. 318,000 108.12
Meter
Sub-total: 1,534 Meter 1,400,818 476.28
Total: 8,490 19,423,281 6,603.92
Terry Towel Industry
Terry Loom/Power 1,986 Meter 39.25
Loom 115,431
Sub-total: 1,986 115,431 39.25
Sweater Factory
Hand-driven Flat 222,472 Pcs 1,533,354 521.34
Knitting Machine
Jachard Knitting 30,333 Pcs 902,691 306.91
Total: 252,805 Pcs 2,436,045 828.26
Export-oriented Readymade Garments:
Woven Garments
Sewing Machine 391,723 Pcs 10,629,548 3,614.05
Sub-Total: 391,723 Pcs 10,629,548 3,614.05
Knit Garments
Over lock 148,448 Pcs 16,393,674 5,573.85
Sub-Total: 148,448 Pcs 16,393,674 5,573.85
Knitting & Knit-dyeing
Circular Knitting 11,651 Eqv. 17,051,052 5,797.36
Meter
Winch Dyeing 925 Eqv. 4,618,500 1,570.29
Machine Meter
Jet Dyeing 343 Eqv. 945,000 321.30
Meter
Sub-total: 12,919 Eqv. 22,614,552 7,688.95
Meter
Silk Industry
Power Loom 793 Meter 47,042 15.99
Sub-total: 793 Meter 47,042 15.99
Sewing Thread Manufacturing
Industry
Sewing and other 1,370 Kg 158,063 53.74
Machines
Sub-total: 1,370 158,063 53.74
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2.4 Import of Raw Materials and Machinery
2.4.1 Payments against Import of Textile Raw Materials and Machinery

Updated Macro Database on Import of Textile-related Raw Materials and
Machinery, Derived from Secondary Source
Table – 2.3 below shows summary of payment of import of textile raw

materials and machinery. This Table gives statistics of last 06 years
beginning from 2002-03 and ending in 2007-08. It may be seen from the
Table that, total import payment in 2002-03 was Tk. 1,16,521.54 million,
which stood at Tk. 149,503.99 million (28% net increase) in 2003-04. During
2004-05, import payment stood at Tk. 190,845.96 million (again 28% net
increase), which stood at Tk. 242,518.96 in 2005-06. During 2006-07, import
payment stood at Tk. 282,699.04 (17% net increase), which stood at Tk.
313,706.16 in 2007-08.
However, it is also evidenced that, from 2006-07, the import has been
increasing at a decreasing rate, which stood at 11% increase during 2007-08
compared to 2006-07. However, average annual increase in the import of
textile raw materials and machinery during last 5 years have been 22%, or in
other words, during last 5 years, import has increased by more than double.
But, the very point of ‘increasing at a decreasing rate’ indicates that, if this
sector is not reared up properly, it may lose its present momentum
substantially.
Table – 2.3: Payments against Import of Textile Raw Materials and

Capital Machinery
(Taka in Thousand)
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
Raw Materials:
Silk:
Silk-warm cocoons suitable for 62569 9769 17912 35012 35556 37547
reeling.
Raw silk (not thrown). 212014 284398 26868 27372 50130 568952
5 8 9
Silk waste (including cocoons 10742 16011 16873 15573 35403 7539
unsuitable for reeling, yarn
waste and garnetted stock).
Silk yarn (other than yarn spun 961 8403 1432 3954 2912 5287
from silk waste) not put up for
retail sale.
Yarn spun from silk waste, not 823 14098 1954 0 30171 2121
put up for retail sale
Silk yarn and yarn spun from 31190 181274 24413 3211 9193 22756
silk waste, put up for retail 3
sale; silk-warm gut.
Woven fabrics of silk or of silk 579658 442680 30024 94212 98575 151837
waste. 5
Sub-Total: 897967 95663 85123 42569 71311 796039
3 4 0 9
Wool, fine for course animal
hair: Horse-hair Yarn and
Woven Fabrics:
Wool, not carded or combed. 28999 32867 17792 63894 21974 54604
16
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
Fine or coarse animal hair, not 0 1953 0 18509 2771 635
carded or combed.
Waste of wool or of fine or 0 0 0 3060 11156 0
coarse animal hair, including
yarn waste but excluding
garnetted stock.
Garnetted stock of wool or of 374 479 4530 13134 29268 2263
fine or coarse animal hair
Wool and fine or coarse animal 14988 1559 6155 9042 1006 9607
hair, carded or combed
(including combed wool in
fragments).
Yarn of carded wool, not put 28625 107099 33152 85810 16542 105507
up for retail sale. 4
Yarn of combed wool, not put 11369 8854 17740 10338 51067 47197
up for retail sale
Yarn of fine animal hair 0 348 23532 8602 1517 3846
(carded or combed), not put
up for retail sale.
Yarn of wool or fine animal 67631 89761 92946 13661 28325 11106
hair, put up for retail sale. 5
Yarn of coarse animal hair or 4550 1800 0 5892 2893 5367
of horse hair (including
gimped horsehair yarn)
whether or not put up for retail
sale.
Woven fabrics of carded wool 945841 843908 98344 11136 93362 817673
or of carded fine animal hair. 2 73 1
Woven fabrics of combed wool 114835 6818 31587 32002 19430 9498
or of combed fine animal hair.
Woven fabrics of coarse 20287 0 1119 1431 0 524
animal hair or of horsehair.
Sub-total: 123749 10954 12119 15020 12684 106782
9 46 96 02 52 7
Cotton:
Cotton not carded or 2233530 336838 40103 48875 58288 816140
combed. 4 28 759 272 378 34
Cotton waste (including yarn 100032 73978 22036 52048 25691 283147
waste and garnetted stock). 6 0 8
Cotton, carded or combed. 308213 602234 63819 47410 80950 127291
5 3 0 4
Cotton sewing thread, whether 329316 469120 41281 81254 11552 118564
or not put up for retail sale. 3 5 75 5
Cotton yarn (other than 6644704 746332 96638 14595 17008 222940
sewing thread), containing 3 68 410 505 98
85% or more by weight of
cotton, not put up for retail
sale.
sewing thread), less than 85% 3 2 4 4
by weight of cotton, not put up
for retail sale.
sewing thread) put up for 8 1 1
retail sale.
Woven fabrics of cotton, 1216863 159251 21491 26123 29387 276875
containing 85% or more by 0 34 455 974 473 91
weight of cotton,
weighing not more than 200
17
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
gm/m2 .

containing 85% or more by 0 78 022 310 70
weight of cotton, weighing
more than 200 gm/m2 .
containing less than 85% by 2 94 38 25 6
weight of cotton, mixed mainly
or solely with man-made
fibres, weighing not more than
200 gm/m2
containing less than 85% by 5 76 07 01 9
weight of cotton, mixed mainly
or solely with man-made
fibres, weighing more than
200 gm/m2 .
Other woven fabrics of cotton. 4868898 620903 80216 10145 11887 116189
8 18 272 662 31
Sub-total: 5607226 737970 920823 120131 141404 1710969
4 98 13 216 242 57
Other Vegetable Textile
Fabrics; paper yarn and woven
fabrics of paper yarn:
Flax, raw or processed but not 4267 10463 41655 83342 10545 19839
spun; flax tow and waste
(including yarn waste and
garnetted stock).
True hemp (Cannabis sativa 0 205 0 3787 1699 2735
L.), raw or processed but not
spun; tow and waste of true
Jute and other textile bast 5635 7864 326 8426 5061 20173
fibres (excluding flax, true
hemp and ramie), raw or
processed but not spun; tow
and waste of these fibres
(including yarn waste and
garnetted stock).
Coconut, abaca, ramie and 4474 49144 21521 1359 1397 47971
other vegetable textile fibres. 7
Flax yarn 582 0 0 0 0 0
Yarn of jute or of other textile 5454 2888 3399 38028 0 3582
bast fibres of heading 5303.
Yarn of other vegetables 18132 13196 18041 5881 1378 4310
textile fibres; paper yarn.
Woven fabrics of flax. 90110 79147 81520 13678 31233 117937
8
Woven fabrics of jute or of 522 24499 64361 90236 28995 1482
other textile bast fibres of
heading 5303.
Woven fabrics of other 55520 104164 36848 21949 10228 11161
vegetable textile fibres; 8 9 0
woven fabrics of paper yarn.
Sub-total: 184696 291570 78300 58734 18258 229190
7 6 8
Man-made Filaments; stripe
and the like of man-made
textile materials:
18
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
Sewing thread of man-made 624521 109451 12755 21061 23202 291619
filaments, whether or not put 9 80 01 63 6
up for retail sale.
Synthetic filament yarn (other 2089193 283133 38617 44927 50008 630646
than sewing thread), 5 56 34 55 9
Artificial filament yarn (other 424697 358906 38435 52030 10225 836575
than sewing thread), not put 7 8 34
up for retail sale, including
artificial monofilament of less
than 67 decitex.
Synthetic monofilament of 67 68598 80392 66348 73465 86284 75815
decitex or more and of which
no cross-sectional dimension
exceeds 1 mm;
Artificial monofilament of 67 6938 23271 0 0 13373 85849
decitex or more and of which
no cross-sectional dimension
exceeds 1 mm;
Man-made filament yarn 5777 1976 0 5091 5605 3641
(other than sewing thread),
put up for retail sale.
Woven fabrics of synthetic 2443883 305615 41192 55866 58112 557326
filament yarn, including woven 9 85 09 40 2
fabrics obtained from
materials of heading 5404.
Woven fabrics of artificial 395200 372066 60371 99890 10361 985743
filament yarn, including woven 8 3 53
fabrics obtained from
materials of heading 5405.
Sub-total: 605880 78186 10311 13783 15296 167835
7 24 044 211 307 50
Man-made Staple Fibers:
Synthetic filament tow 316265 399170 79735 34991 10891 116295
7 0 72 8
Artificial filament tow 572464 716461 86544 13627 13080 156078
6 21 09 6
Synthetic staple fibres, not 1102534 186247 24269 27757 34213 357215
carded, combed or otherwise 4 96 11 48 4
processed for spinning.
Artificial staple fibres, not 213809 119038 28218 42067 57485 974428
carded, combed or otherwise 1 0 2
processed for spinning
Waste (including noils, yarn 19699 12663 20441 26205 72983 124546
waste and garnetted stock) of
man-made fibres.
Synthetic staple fibres, carded, 155937 263366 20481 12786 21011 156120
combed or otherwise 9 0 7
processed for spinning
Artificial staple fibres, carded, 8828 17336 8275 9668 36633 477
combed or otherwise
processed for spinning.
Sewing thread of man-made 471428 658406 52702 89301 10458 110366
staple fibres, whether or not 4 0 67 8
put up for retail sale.
Yarn (other than sewing 3704142 536677 66580 89538 11317 927714
thread) of synthetic staple 3 86 59 740 7
fibres, not put up for retail
sale.
19
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
thread) of artificial staple 3 2 1
fibres, not put up for retail
sale.
thread) of man-made staple 8 9 3
staple fibres, containing 85% 4 29 08 47 5
or more by weight of synthetic
staple fibres.
staple fibres, containing less 0 45 68 90 5
than 85% by weight of such
fibres, mixed mainly or solely
with cotton, of a weight not
exceeding 170 gm/m2.
staple fibres, containing less 9 09 97 68 7
than 85% by weight of such
fibres, mixed mainly or solely
with cotton, of a weight
exceeding 170 gm/m2
Other woven fabrics of 566424 897844 14303 90136 89344 747688
synthetic staple fibres. 34 6 1
Woven fabrics of Artificial 676879 119963 13158 13862 94142 939710
staple fibres. 7 07 80 6
Sub-total: 1423351 209320 253045 293477 321845 2995066
4 82 20 84 47 5
Wadding, felt and non-woven,
special yarns, twine, cordage,
ropes, cables and articles:
Wadding of textile materials 22070 35966 42241 54070 77127 85603
and articles.
Felt, whether or not 5379 4050 11661 8451 9061 9292
impregnated, coated, covered
or animated.
Non woven, whether or not 113523 136002 13063 17728 14832 174237
impregnated, coated, covered 4 5 8
or laminated.
Rubber thread and cord, 77145 66424 40100 16760 3647 19655
textile covered; textile yarn
and strip.
Metalised yarn, whether or not 96104 132620 12980 13003 12488 310877
gimped, being textile yarn or 3 0 1
strip.
Gimped yarn and strip. 30682 25047 25482 72853 36379 108873
1
Twine, cordage, ropes and 232305 101791 17370 13477 22375 127648
cables, whether or not plaited 9 9 4
or braided
Knotted netting of twine, 3689 4196 3636 278 14756 6749
cordage or rope.
Articles of yarn, strip. 39880 26079 410 11528 1103 16762
Sub-total: 620777 53217 55767 60603 63903 183955
5 6 4 6 4
Carpets and other textile floor 1273 2357 5390 8055 1088 4435
coverings, knotted, whether or
not made up.
20
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
coverings, woven.
coverings, tufted.
coverings, of felt.
Other Carpets and other 14513 6555 7596 5782 5112 13791
textile floor coverings whether
or not made up.
Sub-total: 79631 54065 64193 64797 70426 85730
Special Woven Fabrics, tufted
textile fabrics, lace, tapestries,
trimmings and embroidery:
Woven pile fabrics and chenille 1490146 148488 22113 24460 29755 302989
fabrics. 4 30 49 94 5
Terry towelling and similar 118254 129110 10467 16781 11717 49944
woven terry fabrics. 7 8 3
Gauze, other than narrow 28853 10329 7356 14970 16065 21314
fabrics.
Tulles and other net fabrics, 84427 54106 19111 46864 32708 185201
not including woven, knitted or 2
crocheted fabrics.
Hand-woven tapestries. 1820 3599 11565 2522 10432 7822
Narrow woven fabrics. 167045 342642 40822 47057 44025 546704
0 5 3
Labels, Badges and similar 3076513 338276 43135 53611 55090 555990
articles 2 95 52 43 0
of textile materials.
Braids in the piece. 8446 27624 16655 65483 17019 74058
Woven fabrics of metal thread. 37010 132940 12720 17208 15077 26349
2 2 0
Embroidery in the piece, in 11453 134986 28263 53084 54238 106308
strips or in motifs. 3 3
Quilted textile products. 17839 8377 73020 58578 29702 35447
Sub-total: 504180 57113 75753 93369 95473 935809
6 59 64 36 71 7
Impregnated, coated, covered
or laminated textile fabrics,
textile articles of a kind
suitable for industrial use:
Textile fabrics coated with 49030 83365 52577 28596 66489 967940
gum. 2 8
Tyre cord fabric 488504 517936 57452 59439 68653 515688
3 3 7
Textile fabrics, impregnated, 1122609 107951 15452 11365 13624 145869
coated, covered or laminated 5 91 73 38 4
with plastics.
Linoleum, whether or not cut 6792 0 0 5307 251 0
to shape.
Textile wall coverings 0 0 1827 18502 0 0
Rubberised textile fabrics 18490 35795 91045 10976 12261 222262
7 6
Textile fabrics otherwise 3579 3103 6720 10400 16249 1309
impregnated, coated or
covered.
Textile wicks, woven, plaited 8560 14732 13857 11294 18933 13740
or knitted.
Textile house keeping and 9756 3442 7083 7657 30421 170622
similar textile tubing.
Transmission or conveyor 7790 11776 12680 17962 12118 22836
21
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
belts.
Textile products and articles 575934 518840 64948 86067 18308 268939
for technical uses. 9 6 9
Sub-total: 229104 22685 29550 30584 30975 364203
4 04 92 93 50 0
Knitted or corded fabrics:
Pile fabrics 8662129 924262 10673 12160 14440 149012
3 990 652 918 21
Knitted or crocheted fabrics by 2822921 268759 43746 31193 39042 477366
weight 5% or more, not 2 65 24 57 8
exceeding 30 cm.
Knitted or crocheted fabrics 116350 2025 34613 45195 43471 315555
not exceeding 30 cm. 0 0
Knitted or crocheted fabrics 10532 32826 19392 12880 14585 390317
exceeding 30 cm. 0 9
Warp knit fabrics. 126304 22463 10265 25737 92108 80688
5 8
Other knitted or crocheted 133216 79776 55292 48793 61284 632532
fabrics. 6 8 6
Sub-total: 1187145 120673 157582 166060 196306 2109398
2 05 41 42 98 1
Articles of apparel and
clothing accessories,
knitted or crocheted:
Men's or boy's overcoats, car 10408 8851 44453 7920 4858 27130
coats, caps, cloaks, anoraks
(including ski jackets), wind
cheaters, wind-jackets, knitted
or crocheted.
Women's or girl's overcoats, 4338 2891 4323 12843 89 1567
car coats, caps, cloaks,
anoraks (including ski jackets),
wind cheaters, wind-jackets,
knitted or crocheted.
Men's or boy's suits, 14176 61822 6777 14880 46316 68800
ensembles, jackets, blazers,
trousers, bib and brace
overalls, breeches and shorts
(other than swimwear) knitted
or crocheted.
Women's or girl's suits, 28147 12786 39778 27896 5747 3594
ensembles, jackets, blazers,
(other than swimwear) knitted
or crocheted.
Men's or boy's shirts, knitted 22668 10457 53390 44558 17852 191067
or crocheted. 4
Women's or girl's blouses, 163 17413 88767 37254 9448 12766
shirts and shirt-blouses,
knittedor crocheted.
Men's orboy's underpants, 0 11109 3635 7455 3610 10591
briefs, nightshirts, pyjamas,
bathrobes, dressing gowns
and similar articles, knitted or
crocheted.
Women's or girl's slips, 25519 1463 51933 35902 40944 18767
petticoats, briefs, panties,
nightdresses, payjamas,
22
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
negliges, bathrobes, dressing
gowns and similar articles,
T-shirts, singlets and other 72802 76007 47718 28929 11981 116943
vests knitted or crocheted. 1 4
Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, 45548 39815 32423 89038 78500 102008
waistcoats and similar articles,
Baby’s garments and clothing 449923 474979 69995 79260 11835 506347
accessories knitted or 8 5 14
crocheted.
Track suits, ski suits and 215541 48285 66161 77531 73001 43289
swimwear, knitted and
crocheted.
Garments, made up of knitted 322405 467615 36738 13080 0 66776
or crocheted fabrics. 2 5
Other garments knitted or 17651 11586 0 139 26666 0
crocheted.
Panty hose, tights, stockings, 5887 32076 57890 535 1249 47923
socks and other hosiery.
Gloves, mittens and mitts, 5478 2233 0 0 701 0
Other made up clothing 167249 193278 16880 91052 22950 231279
accessories, knitted or 2 6
crocheted; knitted or
crocheted parts of garments or
of clothing accessories.
Sub-total: 1407903 147266 21628 13883 20024 144884
6 53 42 87 7
Articles of apparel and clothing
accessories, not knitted or
crocheted:
Men's or boy's overcoats, car 28427 34899 8496 14771 23715 73528
coats, caps, cloaks, anoraks
(including ski jackets), wind
cheaters, wind-jackets.
Women's or girl's overcoats, 30449 16048 7485 17660 10266 13274
car coats, caps, cloaks,
anoraks (including ski jackets),
wind cheaters, wind-jackets.
Men's or boy's suits, 32200 44174 99122 24306 46643 345762
ensembles, jackets, blazers, 9 0
(other than swimwear).
Women's or girl's suits, 33455 86420 10914 99931 28901 231989
ensembles, jackets, blazers, 7 3
(other than swimwear).
Men's or boy's shirts. 101000 110830 87023 75385 50382 429215
7
Women's or girl's blouses, 0 7059 90925 17014 13302 103395
shirts and shirt-blouses. 7 1
Men's or boy's singlets and 35472 75179 2836 20729 77066 153345
other vests, underpants,
briefs, nightshirts, pyjamas,
bathrobes, dressing owns and
similar articles.
23
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
Women's or girl's singlets and 16343 52242 5122 7046 49356 29343
other vests, slips, petticoats,
briefs, panties, nightdresses,
pyjamas, negliges, bathrobes,
dressing gowns and similar
articles.
Babies' garments and clothing 27252 96312 33133 73678 23339 115284
accessories. 3
Garments made up of fabrics 493784 839881 97266 51108 31927 221072
heading 56.02, 56.03, 59.03, 3 1 5
59.06 or 59.07.
Track suits, ski suits and 358 7840 0 6140 22834 20405
swimwear, other garments.
Brassieres, girdles, corsets, 5213 3084 14864 14450 9486 19738
brace, suspenders, garters and
similar articles and parts
thereof, whether or not knitted
or crocheted.
Handkerchiefs. 2221 2730 5137 4882 18080 4582
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, 6453 9659 20512 8783 26950 47826
mantillas, veils and the like.
Ties, bow ties and cravats. 20656 67433 95758 76035 74318 111278
Gloves, mittens and mitts. 0 790 831 0 1880 1591
Other made up clothing 3661469 416794 45059 59300 81426 787476
accessories, parts of 9 56 98 59 2
garments or of clothing
accessories, other than those
of heading 62.12.
Sub-total: 449475 56225 60590 72738 10401 979638
2 29 10 85 569 9
Other man-made textile
articles, sets, worn clothing
and worn textile articles and
rags:
Blankets and travelling rugs. 51111 89343 11852 10652 77958 163821
6 6
Bed linen, table linen, toilet 5611 7355 11578 23954 11236 31234
linen and kitchen linen.
Curtains (including drapes) 4517 19800 12261 9113 8252 3650
and interior blinds; curtain or
bed valances.
Other furnishing articles, 1392 3261 9209 1007 16783 6355
excluding those of heading
94.04.
Sacks and bags of a kind used 121374 129511 17372 14749 71433 66337
for the packing of goods. 6 0
Tarpaulins, awnings and sun 717 0 2693 9285 4776 38940
blinds; tents; sails for boats,
sailboards or land craft;
camping goods.
Other made up articles, 1249 4454 18872 2285 12625 37732
including dress patterns. 2
Sets consisting of woven fabric 0 3950 697 13994 233 0
and yarn, whether or not with
accessories for making up into
rugs, tapestries, embroidered
table cloths or serviettes or
similar textile articles put up in
packings for retail sale.
24
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
Worn clothing and other worn 123107 138860 12624 14838 81555 114599
articles. 7 5
Used or new rags, scrap twine, 6232 1340 14597 0 701 2391
cordage, rope or cables of
textile materials.
Sub-total: 315310 39787 48840 46203 39917 465059
4 6 9 9
Machinery:
Nuclear reactors, boilers,
machinery, mechanical
appliances and spare parts:
Air conditioning machines, 711029 965192 12450 15709 17751 229560
comprising a motor-driven fan 92 58 71 5
and elements for changing the
temperature and humidity,
including those machines in
which the humidity cannot be
separately regulated.
Machines for extruding, 92516 314071 29041 10259 77688 175629
drawing, texturing or cutting 9 82 1
man-made textile materials.
Machines for preparing textile 4545281 673943 10809 14201 19740 188962
fibres; spinning, doubling or 3 492 073 981 93
twisting machines and other
machinery for textile yarns;
textile reeling or winding
(including weft-winding)
machines and machines for
preparing textile yarns for use
on the machines of heading
84.46 or 84.47.
Weaving machines (looms). 748046 940283 20619 39220 38743 338059
62 00 01 4
Knitting machines, stich- 1963288 322427 40393 64172 75666 867563
bonding machines and 1 16 21 01 2
machines for making gimped
yarn, tulle, lace, embroidery,
trimmings, braid or net and
machines for tufting.
Auxiliary machinery for use 671632 910561 10282 16006 17886 228707
with machines of heading 57 42 55 3
84.44, 84.45, 84.46 or 84.47
(for ex. Dobbies, jacqards,
automatic stop motions); parts
and accessories suitable for
use solely or principally with
the machines of this heading
or of 84.44, 84.45, 84.46 or
84.47.
Machinery for the manufacture 89118 8682 45860 77000 38975 58110
or finishing of felt or non
wovwns in the piece or in
shapes, including machinery
for making felt hats; blocks for
making hats.
House-hold or laundry-type 16063 35099 64647 12230 10564 105017
washing machines; including 2 1
machines which both wash
and dry.
25
Description 2002-03 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007-
04 05 06 07 08
Machinery for washing, 2877255 334847 50859 89969 10094 989344
cleaning, wringing, drying, 0 65 69 267 5
ironing, pressing, bleaching,
dyeing, dressing, finishing,
coating or impregnating textile
yarns, fabrics etc.
Sub-total: 1171422 164860 246710 379341 457614 4576739
8 62 10 47 73 8
Grand Total: 9438089 80390388
Average per industrial entity: 1,749 14,895
Total 1165215 149503 190845 242518 282699 3137061
40 992 958 964 044 58
% Increase: 28 28 27 17 11
% Increase during 2007-08 169
compared to 2002-03
Average annual % increase 22
during last 5 years
2.4.2 Import of Some Specific Items, Derived from Secondary Source
During last 10 years (1998-99 to 2007-08), cotton import increased by eight

folds. In 1998-99, cotton import was worth Tk. 11,200 million, which stood at
Tk. 87,110 million in 2007-08. Average annual growth in import in money
term was 30 percent. For more details, Table – 2.4 may be consulted.
During last 10 years (1998-99 to 2007-08), textile and textile article import
increased by more than two folds. In 1998-99, textile and textile article
import was worth Tk. 53,300 million, which stood at Tk. 129,840 million in
2007-08. For more details, Table – 2.4 and Table – 2.5 may be consulted.
26
Table – 2.4: Import of Cotton, Yarn, Textile & Textile Articles and
Staple Fibre in Taka
(Tk. In Million)
Period Import
Cotton Yarn Textile & Textile Articles
1998-99 11,200 13,600 53,300
1999-00 13,940 15,090 58,010
2000-01 19,410 17,390 69,680
2001-02 17,940 16,220 61,020
2002-03 22,740 15,610 64,060
2003-04 34,360 19,000 76,270
2004-05 40,960 24,140 96,460
2005-06 49,870 33,670 1,15,980
2006-07 59,200 40,230 1,30,640
2007-08 87,120 47,390 1,29,840
Source: Economic Trends, Statistics Department, Bangladesh Bank,

September 2008
Table – 2.5: Import of Raw Cotton, Yarn, Textile & Textile Articles
and Staple Fibre in Million US$
(In million US$)
Items 2000-01 2001-02 2002-03 2003-04 2004-05 2005-06 2006-07
Raw
360 312 393 583 666 742 858
Cotton
Yarn 322 283 270 323 393 501 582
Textile &
1291 1063 1106 1295 1571 1728 1892
Articles
Staple
39 39 41 57 75 76 97
Fibre
Source: Annual Import Payment 2006-2007, Bangladesh Bank
2.4.3 Countries of Import of Some Specific Raw Materials
Imports were made from:
Silk: Australia, China, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia,
Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, USA,
Uzbekistan and Vietnam.
Wool & Woven Fabrics: Bahrain, Bhutan, Brazil, Canada, China, France,
Germany, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Korea, Malaysia, Pakistan,
Poland, Singapore, Taiwan, Tajikistan, Thailand, UAE, UK and USA.
Cotton: Afghanistan, Australia, Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Belgium, Benin, Brazil,

Brunei, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cameroon, Canada, Chad, China, Czech
Republic, Cambodia, Egypt, Ethiopia, Finland, France, Germany, Ghana, Hong
Kong, India, Indonesia, Iran, Ireland, Italy, Ivory Coast, Japan, Jordan,
Kazakhstan, Kenya, Kirghiz, Korea, Laos, Latvia, Macao, Malawi, Malaysia,
Maldives, Mali, Mauritius, Mexico, Mongolian Republic, Netherlands, Niger,
Nigeria, Oman, Pakistan, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Saudi Arabia, Senegal,
27
Singapore, South Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Swaziland, Sweden,
Switzerland, Taiwan, Tanzania, Tajikistan, Thailand, Togo, Turkey,
Turkmenistan, UAE, Uganda, UK, USA, Russia, Uzbekistan, Vietnam and
Zimbabwe.
28
2.5 Production
2.5.1 Production of Cotton, Cotton Yarn and Cotton Cloth
Cotton is produced in the country, but in an insignificant quantity. In 1997-

98, cotton production in the country was 14,000 tons, which increased to
78,000 tons in 2003-04, but later on decreased to 30,000 tons in 2007-2008.
During last 9 years, cotton cloth production increased by more than four
folds. In 1997-98, cotton cloth production was 102.55 million meters, which
stood at 939.55 million meters in 2006-07. For more than 10 times, details,
Table – 2.6 may be consulted.
Table – 2.6: Production under different Sub-sectors
Production
Cotton Yarn
Period Cotton (in ‘000’ Cotton Cloth (in
(in ‘000’
tons) ‘000’ Meters)
Bales)
1997-98 14 294 10,255
1998-99 - 304 11,155
1999-00 - 325 12,410
2000-01 27 338 14,731
2001-02 30 364 16,138
2002-03 24 388 18,030
2003-04 78 470 26,296
2004-05 2.5 573 32,585
2005-06 30 671 38,050
2006-07 30 870 40,065
2007-08 711 42,086
Source: Economic Trends, Statistics Department, Bangladesh Bank,

September 2008
2.5.2 Updated Macro Database on Production, Derived from Field Survey
Table – 2.7 below gives summary picture of total annual production of textile
items by each sub-sector, including average per mill production, modal
production and mean deviation during 2005-06, 2006-07 and 2007-08 (July-
December). It may be seen from the Table that, with a little exception, under
each sub-sector, every year production has been increasing quite
significantly. But, compared to others, under spinning, knitting, sweater and
woven sub-sectors, production has been increasing in more than normal rate.
For more details, Table – 2.7 below and Tables given under subsequent
section may be consulted.
29
Table – 2.7: Actual Production
(Production in Million
Kg/Meter/Pcs)
Sub-sector Unit 2005-06 2006-07 2007-08
(July-
December
2007)
Spinning Kg 526.79 605.62 339.3
Weaving Meter 869.22 939.55 553.95
Pcs 0.73 0.82 0.41
Composite:
Weaving Meter 55.67 50.83 25.86
Spinning Kg 16.69 16.8 8.41
Dyeing Meter 25.88 25.85 12.93
Dyeing Kg 9.23 9.23 4.61
Specialized Power Loom Meter 86.35 168.44 84.27
Terry Towel Kg 17.18 18.62 9.38
Dyeing, Printing & meter 465.87 520.56 333.35
Finishing (Mechanized)
Kg 356.89 376.4 197.14
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Meter 403.44 186.5 151.05
(Semi-mechanized)
Kg 94.2 178.15 55.18
Sweater Pcs 229.31 368.52 210.43
Garments (Woven) Pcs 1220.12 1776 811.5
Garments (Knit) Pcs 2188.51 2532 1256.85
Knitting Kg 594.92 630.00 232.46
Silk Meter 5.75 7.47 4.58
Sewing Thread Kg 4.47 7.76 2.52
Meter 0.91 1.51 0.64
Synthetic Yarn Kg 19.1 27.79 10.27
2.5.3 Reasons for Shortfall in Production
It has been assessed from the field survey that, most of the industries under
all sub-sectors faced production shortfall particularly due to electricity supply
problem. Some, however, tried to compensate shortfall to some extent
through installing own stand-by generator. The number of industries facing
acute electricity supply problem is 4,943 (92%). Some others faced
production shortfall due to shortage of raw materials and working capital,
lack of proper planning, misleading lead time and lack of spare parts. For
more details, Table – 2.8 below may be consulted.
30
Table – 2.8: Reasons for Shortfall in Production during July-
December 2007
Reason of Shortfall and Duration in Months
Shortag
Shortag Lack of Natur
e of Misleadi Lack of
Electricity e of Proper al Other
Sub-sector Raw ng Lead Spare Strike
Failure Working Plannin Disast s
Material Time Parts
Capital g er
s
D N D N D N D N D N D N D N D N D N
Spinning 4-6 317 1- 11 1- 18 1- 5 1- 3 1-2 77 0 0 0 0 0 0
2 5 2 2 2
Weaving 5-7 701 0 0 0 0 1- 21 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
2
Composite 5-7 81 1- 31 1- 9 1- 7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
3 2 2
Power Loom 4-6 415 1- 3 1- 8 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
2 2
Terry Towel 4-6 72 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Dyeing, 6-8 241 1- 79 1- 15 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Printing & 2 2
Finishing
(Mechanized)
Dyeing, 5-7 83 1- 21 1- 9 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Printing & 2 2
Finishing
(Semi-
mechanized)
Sweater 7-8 601 0 0 1- 35 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
2
Garments 5-6 1,52 1- 10 1- 67 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1 2 1 2
Knitting 7-9 789 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Silk 8-10 99 1- 7 1- 11 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
2 2
Sewing 5-6 16 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Thread
Synthetic 5-6 7 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Yarn
Total: 4-5 4943 1- 357 1- 172 1- 33 1- 3 1-2 77 0 0 0 0 0 0
2 2 2 2
D – Average duration in hour/day; N – No. of responding Units
2.5.4 Suggestions for Minimizing Shortfall in Production
All the industries which have identified the above reasons as the major
causes for production shortfall, have suggested for regular electric supply,
availability of raw materials and spare parts in time, availability of bank loan
support in case of working capital shortage, proper production and inventory
management etc. for overcoming existing production shortfall under different
sub-sectors. For more details, Table – 2.9 may be consulted.
Table – 2.9: Suggestions for Minimizing Shortfall in Production
Suggestions (Frequency /No.)
Need
Raw
Regular Proper based Spare parts
materials Bank support
and production lead should be
Sub-sector supply to with necessary
unhindere plan and time to made
be working capital
d electric inventory be available
unhinder at times of need
supply management determi before head
ed
ned
Spinning 317 115 18 5 3 77
Weaving 701 0 0 21 0 0
Composite 81 31 9 7 0 0
Power Loom 415 3 8 0 0 0
Terry Towel 72 0 0 0 0 0
Dyeing, Printing 241 79 15 0 0 0
& Finishing
31
(Mechanized)
Dyeing, Printing 83 21 9 0 0 0
& Finishing
(Semi-
mechanized)
Sweater 601 0 35 0 0 0
Garments 1,521 101 67 0 0 0
Knitting 789 0 0 0 0 0
Silk 99 7 11 0 0 0
Sewing Thread 16 0 0 0 0 0
Synthetic Yarn 7 0 0 0 0 0
Total: 4,943 357 172 33 3 77
32
2.6 Export and Export Earnings from Textile Products
2.6.1 Export Quantity and Earning from Apparels
Table – 2.10: below shows export and export earnings from apparels. It may
be seen from the Table that, during from 1995-96 to 2007-08, export
earnings increased by more than 4 times. These exports included woven and
knit garments and sweater. During 2005-06 and immediately after that,
export earning from woven garment was much higher than knit (including
sweater) garments. But, earning from woven garments lagged behind
compared to earning from knit garments (2007-08). This trend indicates that
might be, in the immediate future, earning from knit garments will outstrip
earning from woven garments. For details, Table – 2.10 below may be
consulted.
Table – 2.10: Export Quantity and Earning from Apparels

(Earning in Million US$ and Quantity Exported in Million Dozen)
Export in Quantity (Million
Export Earning (Million US$)
Dozen)
Knit
Financial
Knit (includi
Year
Woven Sweater (excluding Total Woven ng Total
Sweater) Sweater
)
1995-96 1948.8 70.41 527.91 2547.1 48.82 23.18 72.00
1 3
1996-97 2237.9 196.60 566.70 3001.2 53.45 27.54 80.99
5 5
1997-98 2844.4 296.29 641.22 3781.9 65.59 32.60 98.19
3 4
1998-99 2984.9 810.49 763.32 4019.9 64.79 36.66 101.45
6 8
1999-00 3081.1 325.07 943.15 4349.4 66.63 45.27 111.90
9 1
2000-01 3364.3 476.87 1018.64 4859.8 71.48 52.54 124.02
2 3
2001-02 3124.8 517.83 941.10 4583.7 77.05 63.39 140.44
2 5
2002-03 3258.2 578.37 1075.45 4912.0 82.83 69.18 152.01
7 9
2003-04 3538.0 616.31 1531.71 5686.0 90.48 91.60 182.08
7 9
2004-05 3598.2 893.12 1926.35 6417.6 92.26 120.13 212.39
0 7
2005-06 4083.8 1044.0 2772.97 7900.8 108.82 165.02 273.84
2 1 0
2006-07 4657.6 1248.0 3305.51 9211.2 133.08 199.54 332.62
3 9 3
33
2007-08 5167.2 1474.0 4058.43 10699. 147.43 241.60 389.03
8 9 80
Source: News at BGMEA, September 2008
2.6.2 Export Earning from Major Sub-sector Products
Table – 2.11: below shows export earnings from textile and articles, raw
cotton, excluding linters, cotton not corded, cotton waste, cotton corded, all
sorts of readymade garments, knitwear and woven garments. It may be seen
from the Table that, from each of these sub-sectors, during last 07 years,
export receipts were more than double. Unhindered and sustained export
earning came from textile and articles, cotton corded, knitwear and woven
garments. For details, Table – 2.11 below may be consulted.
34
Table – 2.11: Sub-sector-wise Export Earnings
(Tk. In Million)
Items 2000-01 2001-02 2002-03 2003-04 2004-05 2005-06 2006-07
Textile & 232457.7 218745.7 234981.0 291673.83 371447.8 455714.2 583558.56
Articles 00 70 95 8 93 32 8
Raw Cotton - - 291.668 448.181 356.200 447.380 388.699
excluding
linters
Cotton not 16.658 21.806 - - - - -
corded
Cotton Waste - - 158.944 178.275 203.574 346.433 321.523
Cotton 2382.764 2130.445 3053.965 3720.234 4727.929 7628.200 8982.025
Corded
Readymade 166553.9 158810.8 - - - - -
Garments all 35 84
sorts
Hosiery all 36068.39 33877.60 - - - - -
sorts 7 9
Knitwear - - 111873.9 142182.42 185151.2 230084.2 302080.93
22 6 94 37 5
Woven - - 96917.68 118344.14 144477.8 171336.3 21068.778
Garments 6 3 61 58
Source: Annual Export Receipts 2006-2007, Bangladesh Bank
2.6.3 Countries Where Textile Products are Exported
Silk Fabrics: Canada, Denmark, India, Japan, Mozambique, Spain, Turkey and
USA.
Wool and Woven Fabrics: Belgium, Canada, China, Denmark, Finland, France,
Germany, India, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Malaysia, Nepal, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, UK and USA.
Cotton Fabrics: Australia, Austria, Bahrain, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, China,
Croatia, Cambodia, Denmark, Egypt, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany,
Greece, Hong Kong, India, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Korea, Kuwait, Madagascar,
Malaysia, Moldavia, Nepal, Netherlands, Pakistan, Poland, Portugal, Saudi
Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Sweden,
Switzerland, Thailand, Tunisia, Turkey, UAE, UK, USA and Vietnam.
Knitted Fabrics: Afghanistan, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Bhutan, Canada,
China, Denmark, Egypt, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India,
Indonesia, Italy, Jordon, Korea, Malaysia, Myanmar, Mexico, Nepal,
Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Pakistan, Portugal, Saudi Arabia,
Singapore, South Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan,
Turkey, UAE, UK, USA and Vatican City.
2.7 Updated Macro Database on Manpower and Requirement of Textile

Technologists, Derived from the Survey
In the textile Mills/Industries/Factories under the survey, there are, in all

4,228,389 employees. The employees consist of Textile Technologists, non-
35
technical persons and general workers. Out of the total general workers,
there are 1,800,283 male workers and 2,140,169 female workers, totalling
3,940,452 general workers. This constitutes 93% of the total employees of
the Mills/Industries/Factories. Again, the number of Textile Technologists is
5,646 which is 0.16 percent of the total manpower in this Sector. However,
the number of skilled workers is 3212159 which is 76% of the total number
of employees under this Sector. For more details, Table – 2.12 below may be
consulted.
36
Table - 2.12: Summary Status of Manpower in the Textile Sector
Sub-Sectors Textile Technologists Non- Others (General Workers) Total Grand

MS/ Gradu Diplo Tota techni Male Female Total
Ph. ate ma l cal Skilled Unskill Skilled Unskill
D Perso ed ed
ns
Spinning 8 312 1,275 1,59 17,678 83,542 26,52 78,785 37,681 244,21 245,809
5 8 4
Weaving 4 61 226 291 9,640 57,575 12,82 17,503 2,894 100,43 100,723
0 2
Composite 3 33 67 103 2,088 5,000 1,816 3,511 1,709 14,124 14,227
Power Loom 1 0 5 6 17,048 18,582 10,30 2,235 1,362 49,530 49,536
3
Knitting Industry 5 404 645 1,05 33,583 218,37 43,47 175,41 48,909 519,75 520,810
4 6 3 5 6
Terry Towel 0 12 60 72 1,546 8,256 1,680 5,428 1,522 18,432 18,504
Dyeing (Mecha) 4 484 492 980 9,442 46,887 17,69 21,716 6,377 102,11 103,097
5 7
Dyeing (Semi- 0 166 160 326 1,868 18,013 3,518 12,123 2,289 37,811 38,137
Mecha)
Synthetic Yarn 0 6 12 18 1,022 2,513 1,596 1,302 1,330 7,763 7,781
Sewing Thread 0 1 1 2 475 1,879 124 638 48 3,164 3,166
Sweater Industry 0 55 106 161 37,620 262,37 61,64 180,95 54,769 597,35 597,520
4 3 3 9
Silk Industry 0 0 12 12 549 1,263 528 777 633 3,750 3,762
Ready Made 4 270 164 438 128,52 757,60 136,6 1,229,9 250,35 2,503,0 2,503,5
Garments (RMG) 5 7 92 06 4 84 22
Industries
Textile 50 169 171 390 650 0 0 0 0 650 1,040
Education & Trg
Institute
Buying House 1 11 90 102 20,557 0 0 0 0 20,557 20,659
Other 10 50 34 94 0 0 0 0 0 0 94
Organization
90 2034 3520 5644 282291 1481867 318416 1730292 409877 4222743 4228387
2.8 Plan for Expansion of Industrial Units

From the field survey it could be assessed that, out of 7,137 industrial units
surveyed, 3,423 (48%) opined for expansion of the own industrial entities,
while 3,721 (52%) opined for not expanding their industrial entities. No sub-
sector is free from this negative opinion. This only varies in degree among
the sub-sectors. Table – 2.13 below reveals this fact in detail.
Table – 2.13: Summary of the Plan for Expansion

Yes, Plan for No Plan for
Sub-sector No. of Mills Expansion Expansion
(No. of Units) (No. of Units)
Spinning 332 235 98
Weaving 655 559 96
Composite 31 21 10
Power Loom 412 196 216
Terry Towel 64 49 16
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing 257 229 29
(Mechanized)
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing (Semi- 95 78 18
mechanized)
Sweater 682 346 337
Garments 3,837 1,085 2752
Knitting 605 536 70
Silk 108 58 51
37
Sewing Thread 46 25 21
Synthetic Yarn 13 6 7
Total: 7,137 3,423 3721
% 100 48 52
38
3.1 Introduction
3.1.1 Present Status of the Mills/Factories under Different Textile Sub-
sectors
While making extensive field survey, we have got, in all 7,542 industrial units
under all sub-sectors, out of which, we have found 6025 (80%) in running
condition, while we have found 1517 industrial units (20%) closed for some
reasons or other. Details may be seen from Table – 3.1 below.
Table – 3.1: Present Status of the Mills/Factories
Sub-sector No. of entity Running Closed
(No. of (No. of
Units) Units)
Spinning (Public) 24 20 4
Spinning (Private) 308 281 27
Weaving * 655 581 74
Composite 31 29 2
Power Loom 412 409 3
Terry Towel 64 61 3
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing (Mechanized) 257 250 7
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing (Semi- 95 94 1
mechanized)
Sweater 682 544 138
Garments 3837 2640 1197
Knitting 605 572 33
Silk 108 80 28
Sewing Thread 46 46 0
Synthetic Yarn 13 13 0
Buying House 311 311 0
Textile Education (Public) 51 51 0
Textile Education (Private) 26 26 0
Others 21 21 0
39
Total: 7546 6029 1517
Percentage ( %): 100 80 20
* Weaving includes 19 Denim Factories.
40
3.2 Data on Investment, Capacity, Production and Import under
Different Sub-sectors and their Analysis
3.2.1 Spinning Sub-sector
3.2.1.1 Introduction
According to field survey, there are 332 Spinning Mills in the country, out of
which, 31 Spinning Mills have been found closed.
3.2.1.2 Investment
Table – 3.2: Capital Investment

(Amount in Million
Tk.)
Other
Name Land Building Machinery Total
Assets
Spinning 25818.
30169.12 147102.52 8191.74 211282.28
Industry 90
The capital investment of the Spinning Mills is comprised of investment in

land, building, machinery and other related assets. The total investment in
land is Tk. 25,818.90 million.
The total investment in building is Tk. 30,169.12 million.

The total investment in machinery (both local and imported) is Tk.
147,102.52 million.
The total investment in other assets is Tk. 8,191.74.
The total investment in all the assets is Tk. 211,282.28 million. These may be
seen from Table – 3.2 above.
3.2.1.3 Machines and Installed Capacity
The main machines used by the Spinning Mills are Spindles and Rotors Most
of the Mills use Spindles. However, there are 7873378 spindles and 213505
rotors in these mills. Per day production capacity of these mills is 4346304
kg yarn. These may be seen in Table – 3.3 below.
Table – 3.3: Machines and Installed Capacity
Spinning Mills
Machines Installed Unit Production Production
machine Capacity/Day Capacity / Year
Numbers (in million)
Public sector 414,240 Kg 109,030 37.07
Spindle
Public sector Rotor 19,312 kg 52,381 17.81
Sub-total: 433,552 kg 161,411 54.88
Private sector 7,459,138 Kg 3,669,523 1,247.64
Spindle
41
Private sector 194,193 kg 515,370 175.23
Rotor
Sub-total: 7,653,331 kg 4,184,893 1,422.86
Total 8,086,883 kg 4,346,304 1,477.74
42
3.2.1.4 Production
Table–below shows production during 2005-06, 2006-07 and 2007-08 (July-

December ’07). The survey finds that, with the passage of time, production
has been increasing quite substantially.
Table – 3.4: Production

(Production in Million Kg)
2007-08 (July-
Sub-sector Unit 2005-06 2006-07
December 2007)
Spinning Kg 526.79 605.62 339.3
3.2.2 Weaving Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 655 Weaving Mills in the country, out of
which, 581 Weaving Mills are in operation and 74 Weaving Mills have been
found closed.
3.2.2.2 Investment
The capital investment of the Weaving Mills is comprised of investment in
land, building, machinery and other related assets.
The total investment in land is Tk. 2,853.13 million.
The total investment in machinery (both local and imported) is Tk. 17,852.16
million.
The total investment in other assets is Tk. 3,238.96 million
The total investment in all the assets is Tk. 30,179.00 million.
These may be seen from Table – 3.5 below.

(Amount in Million
Tk.)
Name Land Building Machinery Other Assets Total
Weaving 2853.1
6234.76 17852.16 3238.96 30179.00
Mills 3
Machines Installed Unit Productio Production

machine n Capacity / Year
Numbers Capacity/D (in million)
ay
Power Loom 20,987 Meter 1,789,598 608.46
Rapier loom 13,762 Meter 2,752,746 935.93
Air Jet 1,382 Meter 551,784 187.61
Sub-total: 36,131 Meter 5,094,128 1,732.00
43
The main machines used by the Weaving Mills are Power Loom, Rapier Loom,
and Air/Water Jet Machines. Most of the Mills use Power Looms, followed by
Rapier Looms.
44
3.2.2.4 Production
Table – below shows production during 2005-06, 2006-07 and 2007-08 (July-
has been increasing significantly. For more details, Table – 3.7 below may be
consulted.

(Production in Million Kg/Meter/Pcs)
Sub- 2007-08 (July-

Unit 2005-06 2006-07
sector December 2007)
Weavin Meter 869.22 939.55 553.95
Pcs 0.73 0.82 0.41
g
3.2.3 Composite Mills Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 31 Composite Mills in the country, out of
which, all 29 Composite Mills are in operation.
3.2.3.2 Investment
The capital investment of the Composite Mills is comprised of investment in

land, building, machinery and other related assets.
The total investment in land is Tk.474.15 million.
million.

Buildi Other
Name Land Machinery Total
ng Assets
3473.
Composite Mills 474.15 23317.95 1323.95 28590.00
95
The main machines used by the Composite Mills are Spindles, Rotors, Power
Loom, Rapier Loom, Jet/Winch Dyeing Machine and Air Jet Machines. Most of
the Mills use Spindles and Rotor. However, there are 198,584 Spindles
10,040 Rotors, 1536 Rapier Looms and 703 Power Looms. These may be
seen in Table – 3.9 below.
45
46
No. of Installed
Sub-sector Machines Unit
Machines Capacity/Day
Composite Spindle 198584 Kg 96680
Rotor 10040 Kg 20220
Jet/Winch 70 Kg 34900
Dyeing
Jigger Dyeing 202 Meter 102800
Power Loom 703 Meter 62000
Rapier Loom 1536 Meter 337300
3.2.3.4 Production
has been decreasing significantly. For more details, Table – 3.10 below may
be consulted.

(Production in Million Meter or
Kg)
2007-08 (July-
December 2007)
Weaving Meter 55.67 50.83 25.86
Spinning Kg 16.69 16.8 8.41
Dyeing Meter 25.88 25.85 12.93
Dyeing Kg 9.23 9.23 4.61
Power Loom Meter 86.35 168.44 84.27
3.2.4 Specialized Textile Mills/Power Loom Industries Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 412 Specialized/Power loom Mills in the
country, out of which, 409 Specialized/Power loom Mills are in operation and
03 Specialized/Power loom Mill has been found closed.
3.2.4.2 Investment
The capital investment of the Power Loom Industries is comprised of

investment in land, building, machinery and other related assets.
The total investment in land is Tk. 231.17 million.
The total investment in building is Tk. 318.80 million.
million.
The total investment in other assets is Tk. 820.85 million
47
Other
Assets
Specialized
231.1
Textile and 318.80 1829.18 820.85 3200.00
Power Loom 7
48
The main machines used by the Specialized Power Loom Industries are
Power Looms and Rapier Looms.. As such per day production capacity of
11,353 machines (Power Loom-9080, Rapier Loom-2205 and Air Jet – 68) is
873429 meter; and yearly capacity of those machines is 296.97 million
meter. These may be seen in Table – 3.12 below.

machine Capacity/Day Capacity / Year (in
Numbers million)
Power Loom 9,080 640,969 217.93
(Shuttle)
Rapier Loom 2,205 Meter 203,460 69.18
Air Jet 68 Meter 29,000 9.86
Sub-total: 11,353 Meter 873,429 296.97
3.2.4.4 Production
has been increasing quite substantially. For more details, Table – 3.13 below
may be consulted.

Kg/Meter)
Sub- 2007-08 (July-
Unit 2005-06 2006-07
sector December 2007)
Power
Meter 86.35 168.44 84.27
Loom
3.2.5 Knitting and Knit Dyeing Industries Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 605 Knitting and Knit Dyeing Industries in
the country, out of which, 572 Knitting and Knit Dyeing Industries are in
operation and 33 Knitting and Knit Dyeing Industries have been found closed.
3.2.5.2 Investment
The capital investment of the Knitting Industries is comprised of investment
in land, building, machinery and other related assets.
million.
49

Other
Assets
Knitting 9467.
20249.36 46686.86 3652.21 80055.55
Industry 12
The main machines used by the Knitting Industries are Circular Knitting
Machines, Jet/Winch Dyeing Machines and Over lock. However, there are
11,651 Circular Knitting Machines, 1268 Jet/Winch Dyeing Machines. Per day
production capacity of the Circular Knitting Machines is 17,051,052 meter
and per day capacity of the Winch Dyeing Machines is 4,618,500meter, Jet
dyeing machines is 945,000. These may be seen in Table – 3.15 below:

Circular Knitting 11,651 Eqv. Meter 17,051,052 5,797.36
Winch Dyeing 925 Eqv. Meter 4,618,500 1,570.29
Machine
Jet Dyeing 343 Eqv. Meter 945,000 321.3
3.2.5.4 Production
Table – 3.16 below shows production during 2005-06, 2006-07 and 2007-08
(July- December ’07). The survey finds that, with the passage of time, overall
production has been increasing quite significantly. For more details, Table –
3.16 below may be consulted.
Kg/Meter)
2007-08 (July-
December 2007)
Knitting Kg 594.92 630.00 232.46
3.2.6 Terry-Towel & Linen Manufacturing Industries Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 64 Terry-Towel & Linen Manufacturing

Industries in the country, out of which, 61 Terry-Towel & Linen Manufacturing
Industries are in operation and 03 Terry-Towel & Linen Manufacturing
Industries have been found closed.
3.2.6.2 Investment
50
The capital investment of the Terry-towel & Linen Manufacturing Industries is
comprised of investment in land, building, machine and other related assets.
million.
The total investment in other assets is Tk. 608.54 million
The total investment in all the assets is Tk. 2138.00 million.

Other
Assets
Terry Towel Linen
Manufacturing 30.22 80.24 1419.01 608.54 2138.00
Industry
The main machine used by the Terry Towel Industries is Terry Loom/Power
Loom. However, there are 1986 Terry/Power Looms. Per day production
capacity of the Terry/Power Looms is 115,431 meters. These may be seen in
Table – 3.18 below.

Terry Loom/Power 1,986 Meter 39.25
Loom 115,431
Sub-total: 1,986 115,431 39.25
3.2.6.4 Production
(July- December ’07). The survey finds that, with the passage of time,
production has been increasing significantly. For more details, Table – 3.19
below may be consulted.
Table – 3.19 : Production

Kg/Meter)
2007-08 (July-
December 2007)
Terry Towel Kg 17.18 18.62 9.38
3.2.7 Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Industries Sub-sector (Mechanized)

(257 Mills)
51
According to field survey, there are 257 Dyeing, Printing and Finishing
Industries (Mechanized) in the country, out of which, 250 Dyeing, Printing
and Finishing Industries (Mechanized) are in operation and only 07 Dyeing,
Printing and Finishing Industry (Mechanized) has been found closed.
3.2.7.2 Investment
The capital investment of the 257 Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Industries
(Mechanized) in land, building, machine and other related assets.
million.
Table – 3.20 : Capital Investment

Other
Assets
Dyeing Printing
4085.4
Finishing Industry 12569.00 21643.84 3690.70 41989.00
5
(Mechanized)
52
The main machines used by the Dyeing, Printing & Finishing (Mechanized)
Mills are Jigger Dyeing Machines and Jet/Winch Dyeing Machines. All the Mills
use Jet/Winch Dyeing Machines and Jigger Dyeing Machines. However, there
are 1,304 Jigger Dyeing Machines and 1,750 Jet & Winch Dyeing Machines.
On an average, each industry has 10.46 machines. These may be seen in
Table – 3.21 below.

Machines Installe Unit Production Production
d Capacity/Day Capacity / Year
machine (in million)
Number
s
Jet & Winch 1,750 Eqv. Meter 9,376,752 3,188.10
Dyeing
Jigger Dyeing 1,304 Meter 836,386 284.37
Dyeing Machine 484 Eqv. Meter 3,186,696 1,083.48
Sub-total: 1,990 Meter 4,023,082 1,367.85
Flat Bed Screen 178 Meter 233,026 79.23
Printing
Screen Printing 1,212 Meter 7,653 2.6
Roller Printing 14 Meter 87,768 29.84
Rotor Screen 24 Meter 271,100 92.17
Printing
Sub-total: 5,206 Meter 8,645,711 2,939.54
3.2.7.4 Production
production has been increasing quite significantly. For more details, Table –

(Production in Million Kg/Meter)
2007-08 (July-
December 2007)
Dyeing, Printing meter 465.87 520.56 333.35
& Finishing Kg 356.89 376.4 197.14
(Mechanized)
3.2.8 Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Industries Sub-sector (Semi-

Mechanized)
According to field survey, there are 95 Dyeing, Printing and Finishing
Industries (Non-mechanized) in the country, out of which, 94 Dyeing, Printing
and Finishing Industries (Non-mechanized) are in operation and only 01
53
Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Industry (Non-Mechanized) has been found
closed.
.
54
3.2.8.2 Investment
The capital investment of the 95 Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Industries

(Semi-Mechanized) in land, building, machine and other related assets.
million.

Buildin Machiner
Name Land Other Assets Total
g y
Dyeing Printing
Finishing Industry 497.90 288.41 4064.34 1168.35 6019.00
(Semi-Mechanized)
The main machines used by the Dyeing, Printing & Finishing (Semi-
Mechanized) Mills are Hand-driven Jiggers and Hand-driven Rollers. However,
there are 961 Hand-driven Jiggers and 520 Hand-driven Rollers, totalling
1,534 machines. These may be seen in Table – 3.24 below.

machine Capacity/Da Capacity /
Numbers y Year (in
million)
Hand-driven Jigger 961 Meter 540,991 183.94
Hand-driven Roller 520 Meter 541,827 184.22
Printing
Winch Dyeing 53 Eqv. Meter 318,000 108.12
Sub-total: 1,534 Meter 1,400,818 476.28
3.2.8.4 Production
(July- December ’07). The survey finds that, with the passage of time, overall
production has been increasing decreasing substantially. For more details,
Table – 3.25 below may be consulted.
Kg/Meter)
55
2007-08
No. of (July-
Mills December
2007)
Dyeing, Printing & 95 Meter 403.44 186.50 151.03
Finishing (Semi- Kg 94.20 178.15 55.18
mechanized)
56
3.2.9 Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing Industries Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 13 Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing

Industries in the country, out of which, all the 13 Synthetic Yarn
Manufacturing Industries are in operation.
3.2.9.2 Investment
The capital investment of the Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing Industries is

comprised of investment in land, building, machinery and other related
assets.

Other
Assets
Synthetic Yarn
178.95 200.54 2136.31 331.32 2847.11
Manufacturing

The main machines used by the Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing Mills are
Spindle & Rotor. These may be seen in Table – 3.27 below:

Spindle 650,692 Kg 343,417 116.76
Rotor 7,532 Kg 24,458 8.32
Total: 658,224 Kg 367,875 125.08
3.2.9.4 Production
(July- December ’07). The survey finds that, during 2006-07, production
increased substantially, but later on decreased. For more details, Table –
(Production in Million Kg)
2007-08 (July-
December 2007)
3.2.10 Sewing Thread Manufacturing Industries Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 46 Sewing Thread Manufacturing

Industries in the country, out of which, all 46 (100%) Sewing Thread
Manufacturing Industries are in operation.
57
The main machines used by the Sewing Thread Manufacturing Mills are
Sewing Machine, Sizing Machine, Warping Machine, Packaging, Dyeing
Machine & Twisting Machine. However, there are 1,370 machineries. These
may be seen in Table – 3.29 below:
Sub-sector Sub-sector Installed Unit Production Production

capacity (in million)
Sewing Sewing and 1370 Kg 158063 53.74
Thread other
Machines
3.2.10.3 Production
production has been increasing insignificantly. For more details, Table – 3.30

(Production in Million Kg/Meter)
2007-08 (July-
December 2007)
3.2.11 Sweater Industries Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 682 Sweater Industries in the country,
out of which, 544 Sweater Industries are in operation and 138 Sweater
Industries have been found closed.
The main machines used by the Sweater Industries are Hand-driven Flat
Knitting Machine & Jachard Knitting machines. These may be seen in Table –
3.31 below:
Machine Name Installed Unit Production Production

capacity (in million)
Hand-driven Flat 222,472 Pcs 1,533,354 521.34
Knitting Machine
Jachard Knitting 30,333 Pcs 902,691 306.91
Total: 252,805 Pcs 2,436,045 828.26
3.2.11.3 Production
58
production has been increasing quite substantially. For more details, Table –
Table -3.32: Production
Kg/Pcs)
2007-08 (July-
December 2007)
Sweater Pcs 229.31 368.52 210.43
59
3.2.12 Silk Industries Sub-sector
According to field survey, there are 108 Silk Industries in the country, out of
which, 80 Silk Industries are in operation and 28 industries are found closed.
The main machines used by the Silk Industries are Power Looms. These may be
seen in Table – 3.33 below.
Sub-sector Sub-sector Installed Unit Production Production

machine Capacity/Da Capacity / Year
capacity y (in million)
Silk Power Loom 793 Meter 47,042 15.99
Sub-total: 793 Meter 47,042 15.99
3.2.12.3 Production
production has been increasing significantly. For more details, Table – 3.34

Kg/Meter/Pcs)
2007-08 (July-
December 2007)
Silk Meter 5.75 7.47 4.58
60
Estimation of Consumption
and Demand-Supply Gap of
Fabrics Keeping in View the
Local & Global Market
4.1 Introduction
In this Section, present and future (In the year 2015) domestic consumption
and demand-supply gap of yarn (both cotton and synthetic) and fabrics (both
woven and knitted), including domestic consumption of fabrics for different
types of wearing apparels and their sources of supply have been discussed.
4.2 Demand–Production
Gap and Investment Opportunities in Primary Textile Sector of
Bangladesh
4.2.1 Analysis of the Existing Market and the Opportunity in Textile
Manufacturing
Investment opportunity of an industry in a country calls for detail evaluation of

historical development of that particular industry and its product mixes, the
demand-supply gap of the products, market potential of the products in the
local and export markets, which help ascertaining the scope for creation of new
capacity in that country. With a view to coming up with some conclusive
recommendations in respect of new investment opportunity in knitting, knit-
dyeing and knitwear manufacturing units in the country, detail analysis has
been made in regard of the demand-supply situation of yarn, grey and finished
fabrics (knit and woven) in the context of the growth of the domestic demand
and export needs through apparels.
4.2.2 Introduction and Background of Textile Manufacturing in Bangladesh
Until liberation of Bangladesh, the textile sector was primarily an import-

substitution industry. It entered into export market of Ready-made Garments-
61
RMG (woven and knitted) in 1978 and progressed spectacularly during the
next two and a half decades. Foreign exchange earning from export of RMG
was only US$ 3.5 million in 1981 and this increased to US$ 9.2 billion in 2006-
07. The apparel export showed a unique growth but in the initial period RMG
industry was not adequately supported by the growth of domestic backward
and forward linkages, e.g. spinning, weaving, knitting, fabric processing and
the accessories industry. It may be mentioned that until 1994-95, country's
RMG industry was mostly dependent on imported fabrics, as the Primary
Textile Sector (PTS) could not be adequately developed for production of
fabrics and yarn required for the export-oriented RMG industry of the country.
However, the PTS has shown an appreciable growth in the last few years and
is now able to supply about 85% of the fabrics required for the export-oriented
knit garment industry and 26% of the woven RMG industry. Because of the
high dependence of the Woven RMG sector on imported fabrics, the net value
addition from exports in 1997/98 was only 20%, which reached to more than
50% in 2006/07 as a result of rapid growth of PTS.
4.2.3 Present Structure of Textile Industry in Bangladesh
The textile industry sector has as many as 30 sub-sectors. However, the major sub-
sectors that account for 90% of the total outputs are:
• Spinning (cotton based ring and rotor);
• Large and medium scale Power loom weaving unit with
preparatory and front process machines;
• Specialized textiles and small power loom industry;
• Knitting and knit-dyeing;
• Dyeing/printing-finishing;
• Export oriented Readymade Garments (RMG).
4.2.4 Achievement and Present Position of Primary Textiles Sector
(PTS) from 1972 to 2006-07:
The recent achievement of Bangladesh PTS is highly satisfactory in some textile

processing industry. For example, the country’s spinning capacity that was
comprised with only 853,000 spindles immediately after liberation (1972-73) has
increased to 8.0 million spindles by 2006-07. The total manpower under the PTS is
now about 2.1 million, apart from nearly 2.4 million people employed in the export-
oriented RMG industry. Yet there is no reason to be overconfident as the global
trade-race is a never-ending process and the country has been passing through
various global competitive trading environments after phase out of MFA facilities
from January 2005.
62
The major sub sector-wise phenomenal growth and capacity of textile industry in
Bangladesh is shown in Table 4.1:
Table-4.1: Sub-sector-wise Machine Capacity:

SUB-SECTOR 1972- 1983-84 1993-94 2007-
73 08
a) Spinning: (Spindle in ‘000’ 853 1,108 2,388 7,873
Nos.)
(Rotor in ‘000’ Nos.) 213
Sub-Total: 8086
b) Weaving (Loom in ‘000’ Nos.):
i) Large Weaving Mills 6,800 6,177 6,235 36131
ii) Specialized and Small Power - 5,432 23,786 11353
loom Units
iii) Handloom Industry (‘000’ 375 437 501 498
Nos.)
Sub-Total : 7,175 12,046 30,522 47982
c) Knitting & Knit-Dyeing: Unit 2 4 177 606

Nos. (Export – oriented)
d) Dyeing –Finishing (Unit Nos.- N. A. 152 248 354
Mechanized & Semi-
Mechanized)
e) Export-oriented RMG (knit 9 67 1,706 4,520
and woven)
4.2.5 Production of Yarn and Fabrics during 2005-06, 2006-07 and 2007-
08 (July-December), Derived from the Survey
Table 4.2 Production of Yarn and Fabrics during 2005-06, 2006-07

and 2007-08 (July-December), Derived from the Survey
(Production in
Million)
Sub-sector Unit 2005-06 2006-07 2007-08
(July-
December
2007)
Spinning Kg 526.79 605.62 339.3
Weaving Meter 869.22 939.55 553.95
Pcs 0.73 0.82 0.41
Composite:
Weaving Meter 55.67 50.83 25.86
Spinning Kg 16.69 16.8 8.41
Dyeing Meter 25.88 25.85 12.93
Dyeing Kg 9.23 9.23 4.61
Specialized Power Loom Meter 86.35 168.44 84.27
Terry Towel Kg 17.18 18.62 9.38
63
Dyeing, Printing & meter 465.87 520.56 333.35
Finishing (Mechanized)
Kg 356.89 376.4 197.14
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Meter 403.44 186.5 151.05
(Semi-mechanized)
Kg 94.2 178.15 55.18
Sweater Pcs 229.31 368.52 210.43
Garments (Woven) Pcs 1220.12 1776 811.5
Garments (Knit) Pcs 2188.51 2532 1256.85
Knitting Kg 594.92 630.00 232.46
Silk Meter 5.75 7.47 4.58
Meter 0.91 1.51 0.64
4.2.6 Production of Yarn & Fabrics from 1972-73 to 2006-07, derived from
Secondary Sources
The production has increased in all the sub-sectors of Bangladesh PTS.

Although Bangladesh is not a cotton growing country, it has succeeded to
increase the production of yarn from 39 million kg in 1972-73 to 594 million
kg in 2006-07 (almost 15 times higher within 35 years). Similarly, production
of fabrics for domestic and export markets has increased from 702 million
meters in 1972-73 to 4,910 million meters in 2006-07. The production of yarn
& fabrics from 1972-73 to 2006-07 is shown as under:
64
Table-4.3: Production of Yarn & Fabrics from 1972-73 to 2006-07
MAJOR TEXTILE PRODUCTS 1972-73 1983- 1993- 2006-07

84 94
(a) Yarn Production (miln. Kg.) 39 67 140 594
(b) Fabric Production in (miln.
meter):
(i) Woven 686 955 803 1,698
(ii) Knitted (converted into miln. 16 28 245 3,212
meter)
Total of (b): 702 983 1,048 4,910
Source: Figures from 1972-73 to 1993-94 quoted from a Study Report

sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles & Jute and those of 2006-07 are based
on Economic Review 2006-07.
The growth trend of domestic production of yarn and fabric has followed the
domestic consumption pattern growing demand of export–oriented RMG
industry.
Table-4.4: Domestic Production of Yarn and Fabrics: From FY 2001-

02 to 2007-08
FY Yarn Production Growth in Fabric Production Growth in

(million k.g.) % (million metre) %
2001-02 298.50 - 2,050 -
2002-03 340.00 15% 2,200 7%
2003-04 380.00 12% 2,750 25%
2004-05 450.00 18% 3,400 23%
2005-06 537.00 17.5% 4,090 20%
2006-07 594.00 10.5% 4,910 20%
2007-08 * 710.00 19% 5,800 18%
Annual Av. 15.% 18.8%
growth
Table-4.5: Domestic Production and Consumption of Fabrics: For FY
2001-02 to 2007-08)
FinancialAvailability of fabric in the domestic Less : local fabrics used in Domestic Consump
Year market RMG consump tion
Domestic Plus Total Woven Knit Total
tion growth
production import availability
(%)
(Official
and
Unofficial)
2001-02 2,050 598 2,648 240 (17%)718 (63%) -
958 1,690
2002-03 2,200 686 2,966 301 (18%)833 (67%) 1,134 1,832 8.4
1,154
2003-04 2,750 683 3,433 334 (20%) 1,488 1,945 6.2
(70%)
65
3,400 1,621
2004-05 725 4,057 375 (22%) 1,996 2,061 6
(75%)
4,090 2,365
2005-06 985 5,075 504 (25%) 2,869 2,260 9.6
(80%)
4,910 2,945
2006-07 1,130 6,040 631 (26%) 3,576 2,464 9
(82%)
5,800 3,587
2007-08 1,240 7,040 711 (26%) 4,298 2,742 11.3
(85%)
Average annual growth 8.4
Basis of estimates: Production figures are based on actual, import quantity

estimated from import in value term obtained from Bangladesh Bank, fabric
consumption for RMG estimated on the basis of quantity exported in dozen.
It appears from the above tables that over the last five years the domestic
production of fabrics has been lagging behind the total demand nonetheless
domestic production of spinning and weaving/knitting together has
registered on average annual increase of 14.5 and 19 percent respectively.
Table 4.5 shows that the total availability of fabrics in the country in 2007-08
was 7,040 mln. mtr. (including import of 1,240 mln. mtr.) of which 4,298 mln.
mtr. consumed by the export-oriented RMG and the remaining 2,742 mln.
mtr. fabrics consumed in the local market.
4.2.7 Historical growth-trend of RMG & Textile industries in Bangladesh
Table-4.6 as produced below shows the consumption of fabrics and yarn by

the export-oriented RMG industry from 2001-02 to 2007-08. A total of 6,959
million meters (2,738 million meters woven and 4,221 million meters knit)
fabrics were consumed in 2007-08 by the export-oriented RMG industry from
domestic production and import from abroad. To produce this quantity of
fabrics an estimated 1,160 million kg of yarn was consumed, of which 456
million kg for woven production and 704 million kg for knit production.
Table- 4.6: Fabric Vis-à-vis Yarn Consumed by the RMG Industry

from 2001-02 to 2007-08
Financial Export of Fabrics Consumed by Yarn Equivalent
Years Readymade RMG Industry from (Million Kg.)
Garment domestic & overseas
(Million Dozen) supply (Million Metre)
Woven Knit Woven Knit Total Wove Knit Total
n
2001-02 77.05 63.39 1,427 1,141 2,568 238 190 428
2002-03 82.83 69.17 1,534 1,245 2,779 256 207 463
2003-04 90.48 91.60 1,675 1,648 3,323 279 275 554
2004-05 92.26 120.13 1,708 2,162 3,870 284 360 644
66
2005-06 108.81 165.02 2,015 2,970 4,985 336 495 831
1,00
2006-07 133.07 199.54 2,464 3,592 6,056 410 598
8
1,16
2007-08 147.85 234.52 2,738 4,221 6,959 456 704
0
Annual 11.67 24.75 11.67 24.75 18.24 11.64 24.7 18.2
growth % % % % % % 9% 4%
Note: (i) One Dozen of Woven RMG = 18.52 metres of fabric.

(ii) One Dozen of Knit RMG = 18.00 metres of fabric.
(iii) Six metres of fabric = 1 kg. of yarn.
It is important to review the historical growth of Export-oriented RMG

Industry of Bangladesh (from 1977-78 to 2006-07) to anticipate the future
growth trend. Despite that the growth of RMG export has been declining over
the initial years as compared to those of subsequent decades, the absolute
quantitative growth has been expanding as shown below:
67
Table-4.7: Growth of Export-oriented RMG Industry of Bangladesh
from 1977-78 to 2006-07
FY No. of Unit Export Export Earning Annual Growth

Quantum (million US$) (in %)
(Million
Dozen)
1977-78 9 - 0.069
1983-84 308 1.14 31.570 91
1993-94 1,839 45.17 1,555.790 48
2006-07 4,500 332.61 9,200.00 92
Source: EPB
4.2.8 Growth of RMG Export from early 1990 to 2006-07
0 From early 90’s the export-oriented RMG industry gained continuous

support with local supply of yarn, fabrics and accessories.
1 This has accelerated the growth rate of RMG export, which reached at
US$ 10.7 billion by the year 2007-08 from the level of 1.55 billion in 1993-94.
Such a high growth has been possible because of local availability of yarn,
fabric and accessories, which did not happen in the countries like, Sri Lanka
and Mauritius who could not develop their PTS.
4.2.9 Demand-Supply Gap of Fabrics Vis-a-Vis Yarn (existing and

projected):
4.2.9.1 Demand Growth Potentials of Fabrics and Yarns
The major factors, which influence the growth of Bangladesh PTS are:
• Gradual increase in domestic consumption of apparels, home textiles and

technical textiles;
• Fast growth of RMG export from Bangladesh and
• Direct export of various textile products (fabrics, home textiles, denims,

sarees etc.)
The growth of domestic consumption depends upon a set of complex factors

that include among others, the growth of population, per capita income,
growth of foreign exchange remittance, change of tastes etc. Some of these
are not well graspable factors for future demand estimation through
dependable prediction models. Similar is the case with the export-oriented
RMG growth, which is more complicated as access to international market
depends upon the following:
• Domestic factors of production (cost of production, local export enabling
factors, etc.) and
68
• Importing countries’ market characterizations, which is highly influenced
by demand trend, visible and invisible regional factors and bilateral or
multilateral trade pacts.
4.2.9.2 Projected Demand of Fabrics & Yarn by 2014-15
The demand for fabrics for domestic market and export through RMG has
been worked out at 9,701 million meters in the base year 2007-08 of which
4,221 million meters for knit and 2,738 million meters for woven and the
remaining 2,742 million meters for domestic market.
Earlier a common apprehension existed among the most people that Bangladesh
export-oriented RMG would face a sort of catastrophe in the Post-MFA era due to
implementation of WTO (complete phase out of MFA i.e., withdrawal of quota),
changes in providing incentives and impacts of various regional blocks and Free-
Trade Agreement (FTA). Firstly, EU has extended duty free access of apparel, which
will exist until 2015. On the other hand, expert opinions concluded that the
abolishment of quota would initially bring a set back for woven RMG mainly due to
loss of control over quota distribution by some local large RMG quota dealers; but
this is believed to create better opportunity for the real RMG manufacturers to
compete with more cost advantage in the US market in the near future. For knit
RMG export, so far nothing happened to be panic; the growth has rather enhanced
in the recent period despite a little price fall. In fact, except China there is very
limited no. of countries, which have PTS with high value change to throw Bangladesh
out of competition in the export markets of US and EU. Bangladesh RMG has to
scare for the dangers that have correctly been anticipated so far, but there is no
valid reason for being disappointed keeping eyes at the trajectory on which global
RMG and textile market is now travelling.
Considering all these as stated in the foregoing, there is good scope of projecting the
demand with the help of moving average method of demand forecasting, based on
last few years (2001-02 to 2007-08). Let us first see the future demand scenario of
fabrics and yarns by 20014-15, as shown below.
Table- 4.8(a) Projected Demand of Fabrics for the Domestic and Export
through RMG Industry (2008-09 to 2014-15): Optimistic Variant
Fabric in mln. mtr. & Yarn in million Kg
Growth Projected Demand of Fabrics & Yarn
rate Export through RMG Total Total Yarn
Domestic Fabrics
Year Knit Woven Sub-Total
Market (Growth (Growth
(Growth Rate Rate
Rate 8.4%) 24.75%) 11.67%)
2007-08 2,742 4,221 2,738 6,959 9,701 1,617
(Base year)
Projected :
2008-09 2,972 5,266 3,058 8,323 11,296 1,883
2009-10 3,222 6,565 3,414 9,979 13,201 2,200
2010-11 3,493 8,184 3,813 11,997 15,490 2,582
2011-12 3,786 10,203 4,258 14,461 18,247 3,041
2012-13 4,104 12,720 4,755 17,475 21,579 3,597
2013-14 4,449 15,859 5,309 21,168 25,617 4,270
2014-15 4,823 19,771 5,929 25,700 30,523 5,087
69
Assuming yarn fabric ratio 1:6.
Note-1: Projected demand for fabrics for domestic and export through RMG-Knit
and Woven considered at the rate of 8.4%, 24.7.5% and 11.67% respectively for the
period from 2008-09 to 2014-15.
But it is worthwhile noting that a global recession has started that already
has impacted on our major importers’ economy (e.g., US, Germany and UK);
the others are likely to be invaded shortly in the same way. Apparently, this
impact has not been statistically reflected well on our RMG &PT sector but is
believed to be soon visible in Bangladesh manufacturing market, opine most
RMG exporters and experts. So, instead of projecting the future demand
based merely on moving average, the model should be reinforced by
forecasting methods based on behavioural dimensions, which depends on
historical data and intuitive assumptions made by experts having long
presence in the sector. In that case, we may impose an onslaught of 25% on
growth potentials. In that case, we assume 6.3%, 18.56% and 8.75% demand
growth for domestic, export oriented knit and woven sub-sectors
respectively.
70
Table- 4.8(b) Projected Demand of Fabrics for the Domestic and
Export through RMG Industry
(2008-09 to 2014-15): Realistic Variant
Fabric in mln. mtr. & Yarn in million Kg
Growth Projected Demand of Fabrics & Yarn Total Total Yarn
rate Export through RMG Fabrics
Year Domestic Knit Woven Sub-Total
Market (Growth Rate (Growth
(Growth 24.75%) Rate
Rate 8.4%) 11.67%)
2007-08
2,742 4,221 2,738 6,959 9,701 1,617
(Base year)
Projected :
2008-09 2,915 5,004 2,978 7,982 10,897 1,816
2009-10 3,098 5,933 3,238 9,171 12,270 2,045
2010-11 3,294 7,034 3,521 10,556 13,849 2,308
2011-12 3,501 8,340 3,830 12,170 15,671 2,612
2012-13 3,722 9,888 4,165 14,053 17,774 2,962
2013-14 3,956 11,723 4,529 16,252 20,208 3,368
2014-15 4,205 13,899 4,925 18,824 23,030 3,838
Assuming yarn fabric ratio 1:6.
4.2.9.3 Demand-Supply Gap of Fabrics & Yarns
The demand of fabrics which was 9,701 in 2007-08 will rise in 2014-15 to
30,523 million meters as per optimistic expectation and to 18,824 million
meters as per more realistic variant. In the same way the requirement of
yarn may rise to 5,087 million kg and 3,838 million kg respectively.
Million Meters
Change of Demand of Fabrics
25,000
20,000
15,000 2007-08
2014-15 (Optimistic)
10,000 2014-15 (Realistic)
5,000
0
Domestic Knit Woven
Assuming the present capacity static, the demand of fabrics and yarns by
2014-15 will be as shown below:
71
Table- 4.8(c): Demand Supply of Yarn
Fabric in mln. mtr. & Yarn in
million Kg
Total Total
Year Domestic Knit Woven Fabrics Yarns
Supply of 2007-08 1,502 3,587 711 5,800 967
Demand of 2014-15
2,915 5,004 2,978
(Optimistic) 10,897 1,816
Demand of 2014-15 (Realistic) 4,205 13,899 4,925 23,029 3,838
Demand-supply Gap at 2014-
3,321 16,184 5,218 24,723 4,121
15 (optimistic variant)
Demand-supply Gap at 2014-
2,703 10,312 4,214 17,229 2,872
15 (Conservative variant)
If no capacity is created, the demand-supply gap would be in excess of 24

billion meters of fabrics in 2014-15 and in excess of 4 billion kg of yarn. Even
in very realistic option, the demand-supply gap is supposed to be in excess
of 17 billion meters of fabrics and closely to 3 billion kg of yarn in the
aforesaid year.
But this does not depict an actual picture of demand-gap supply by 2014-15;
some capacity will be created by that time and according some additional
supply of yarn and fabrics will be made from the domestic source.
To estimate the more realistic demand-supply gap let us assume that:
• in the future (by 2014-15) some capacity will remain left for import of
fabrics and yarns, naturally;
• and as such the planned production volume is not likely to exceed

85% of the fabrics needed for domestic purpose given that domestic
supply is directed to meet only 55% of the requirement. Similarly, it
may be planned that that some 90% and 50% of knit and woven
fabrics will be produced locally (as against present 85% and 26%
production for those sub-sectors). In that case we will have to produce
in total 18,030 million meters of fabrics; also
• the production trend in that time may follow the current pattern i.e.
we would be able to produce only 55% of the need of domestic
fabrics , 85% of fabrics for export oriented knit RMG and 26% of
fabrics required for export oriented woven RMG needed.
With the above mentioned propositions, still huge volume of fabrics remains
left to be produced through creation of new capacity, further.
Now even we assume the demand of fabrics in 2014-15 as per realistic

option would be 23,030 million meters, the demand-supply gap of fabrics
would be shown as under:
Table-4.9: Demand Gaps of Fabrics (million meters):

Base Year (2007-08) Projected for 2014-15
Description Export Export
Dom Dom
Knit Wov Total Knit Wov Total
estic estic
en en
(i) Demand 2,74 4,221 2,73 9,70 4,20 13,899 2,46 23,030
2 8 1 5 3
72
(ii) Domestic Actual 1,50 3,587 711 5,80 3,57 12,509 1,97 18,053
production/ 2 (85% (26% 0 4 (90%) 0 (78%)
Production Plan (as % (55% ) ) (62% (85% (50%
of total demand) ) ) ) )
(iii) (-) Production with 1,50 3,587 711 5,80 2,31 11,814 640 14,767
existing facilities 2 (85% (26% 0 2 (85%) (26% (64%)
(55% ) ) (62% (55% )
) ) )
(iv) Remaining Fabrics to
be produced through 1,26 1,33
- - - 695 3,286
creation of new 1 0
capacity [ii-iii]
It follows from above table that even we manage to make similar historical
success in creation of new capacity over the years from 2007-08 to 2014-15
with the existing tempo of production pattern, still we will face a demand gap
of 3,286 million meters of fabrics and 2,872 million kg of yarns by 2014-15.
73
Anticipation of
Technological Change
Needed for Bangladesh PT
Industry to Effectively
Face Post-MFA Era
5.1 Introduction:
Global textile & apparel market is very much dynamic and is characterized
with frequent milestones of change that by and large is associated with the
technology and various global treaty and agreement, not to speak of design
aspect of products, manufacturing costs, pattern of supply chain, etc.
Apart from turning out the designed product, the purposes of technological
change are to:
• enhance productivity and reduce production cost thereby;
• improve quality to add more value to products; and
• increase flexibility in terms of operational and design
aspects.
Historical evidences, growth model and economic theory all confirm that
technological knowledge is the most important single factor that contributes
long-term productivity and economic growth. As a matter of fact,
technological change is a form of learning as how to solve specific problems
in differentiated and rapid changing business environment.
Changes of technology certainly bear impact on local, regional and
worldwide industry, and it is also true that technology should always be
market driven in the business. So, future PT plan should be based on the
direction of technological change horizon, along with many other relevant
issues.
5.2 International Market Dynamics and the Perspectives of Technological

Change:
Correct anticipation of the needed technological change of Bangladesh

textile to face post MFA era depends on accurate presumption of the post
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MFA scenario on short and long terms basis. The major dynamics that would
play decisive role in the international market are discussed shortly below.
Labour cost: In the competitive global market, there is a strong competition

for product cost minimizing, which finally concentrates on labour cost cutting
& optimization of power consumption. Bangladesh is at far behind the
countries paying highest labour cost for PT industry. As evident from the data
of Werner International (Primary Textile Labour Cost Comparisons), the
labour cost (average cost per operator hour) in Bangladesh Primary Textile
sector is roughly 50 to 100 times less than richer EU nations like Switzerland
and Germany , 30 times less than USA, 3 times less than Thailand and 15-
20% less than India & Sri-Lanka. What Bangladesh has to do is to rationalize
its labour cost with productivity so that its labour cost remains meaningfully
low in the global market. So, Bangladesh has a scope to go for labour-
intensive manufacturing for more 5-10 years. However, this does provide
scope, in any way, to escape technological changes in terms of higher
machine speeds, quality perfection, design versatilities, safety, automation,
etc..
Tariff and Regional Trade Agreements: Since Bangladesh Primary

Textile is heavily dependent on export oriented RMG industry it might suffer
negative consequences of quota out-phasing in the post MFA era. Such a
general apprehension existed strongly few years back with the proposition
that the apparel buyers will be at liberty to source textile goods at cheaper
sources and Bangladesh may be overlooked for the cheaper textile goods
suppliers like India, Pakistan and China. But already Bangladesh has
witnessed 3 years of post MFA era without any adverse impact on RMG on PT
sector. Most experts believe that Bangladesh’s cost advantage and
adaptability of the needed new technology both are playing key role to cause
the things happening in other way around.
Quota under the terms of agreement of textile and clothing (ATC) ended in
2005, but tariff is established within bilateral agreement and that will remain
to exist. Bangladesh is not included in such lucrative bilateral agreements as
NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement), CBPTA (Caribbean Basin
Partnership Trade Agreement), ATPA (Andean Trade Preferences Act), CAFTA-
DR (Central America-Dominican Republic-United States Free Trade
Agreement), etc. The only privilege that Bangladesh RMG export now enjoys
is the generalized preferential system (GSP) in EU market, which is also likely
to be revised by changing to single stage instead of present 2-stage
manufacturing, keeping no concession for Bangladesh Primary Textiles since
2010. In that case, Bangladesh PT industry should gear up self to at per its
different competitors in the world and neighbours like India and Pakistan in
terms of product cost and has to keep South & Central American competitors
behind.
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India and Pakistan have locally produced raw materials that Bangladesh has
to procure from international market. In terms of labour cost and utility cost
Bangladesh stands with them almost at same height. On the other hand,
because of close proximity, South & Central American competitors are
naturally advantageous on transportation & lead time issues. So to equalize
own position with them, or to topple them, Bangladesh has no other way but
to leave them a little behind in terms of technology, quality and supply chain.
Supply Chain: The challenge of supply chain management (logistics and
transportations) is to attain the ability to make delivery of right goods at
right time to the market at possible lowest cost. However, in the global
market, the companies now like to meet customer satisfaction by selecting
specialized, reliable and highly competitive supplier. As a matter of fact, the
textile chain has changed from supply chain to demand chain. In order to
make in time delivery of the goods of customer choice in any country, it is
essential to have joint forecasting, joint planning and joint inventory made by
the both parties: suppliers and buyer companies. In such scenario, the first
thing that the buyers will look at suppliers end is the technological
preparedness of the suppliers and then to other aspects of different
compliances starting from product design to social & safety packages.
Quality & Fashion: Both quality and fashion have found bearing positive
corollary relation with the prices in the international market. Turning out
quality or creating fashions, separately or together, need a combination of
improvised skill with sophisticated technology. Compromise in any of these
two areas may jeopardize the objectives of the deal of a supply chain.
In the market competition, therefore, Bangladesh PT has to prove its fitness

in many areas followed by its preparedness in respect of modern technology.
So, the needed technological change has to follow the change of global
market in terms of product specifications or product diversity, quality and
design at least.
5.3 Anticipated Technological Change in Different Sub-sectors of
Bangladesh PT
It is utmost important to keep the global dynamics of technology while

recommending the future-friendly technology for Bangladesh PT industry.
Below we have made a concise discussion on this issue major sub-sector
wise.
5.3.1 Spinning
According to an article published in the Journal of Textile and Apparel

Technology & Management (Vol. 2007), world fibres consumption is expected
to change from 53 million Tons in 2000 to 74 million Tons in 2010 and 95
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million ton in 2020. According to ITMF (International Textile Manufacturers
Federation), within the very decade the consumption of cotton fibres is
expected to change from 52% to 70% (with a zigzag trend for the fall of
global cotton production in the years of 2001 to 2003); with the range of 25%
to 42% for synthetic fibres in the same period of time; regenerated cellulose
fibres comprise the rest percents.
Cotton spinning, with a slight setback in 1998-2000, increased from 17

million ton in 1995 to 24 million tons in 2004 and that is expected to grow
matching with its consumption pattern. This indicates that the cotton
spinning i.e., short staple spinning as in the recent past will prevail in the
future too, at least by 2020, followed closely by the synthetic spinning or so-
called long staple spinning.
Asia and Oceania produces roughly 75% of the cotton yarn produced in the
world. China tops the list as alone accounting for 30-35% of the global cotton
yarn production- followed by India, Pakistan, USA and Turkey, each
producing in between 1.00 to 2.00 million tons of cotton yarn per annum.
Bangladesh has been yet behind to reach 1.00 million ton target. So
Bangladesh has a scope to create huge spinning capacity to produce cotton
yarn, not to speak of synthetic yarn manufacturing capacity for which
Bangladesh’s share is not even 1% of the global capacity. So future
Bangladesh’s technological preparedness should include effort for
enhancement of the both short and long staple fibers spinning technology.
Bangladesh has long tradition of ring spinning, which was historically

confining mostly on medium and upper count, with the exception of recent
few years when an increasing tendency is observed for concentration on
lower counts in between 16Ne t0 30 Ne mostly to meet the demand of
knitwear & sweater manufacturing. Bangladesh high-count yarn mostly
target traditional handloom sector that does not have any scope for dramatic
expansion in the near future. Bangladesh rotor spinning has only a single
decade history; the rotor spinning units are yet poorly organized by structure
and designed mainly to consume waste cotton to produce low quality yarn
rather than consuming virgin cotton & improved blends to produce high
quality yarn for various high value twill fabrics.
Regarding the answer to the question as what should be Bangladesh’s future

technological approach in spinning, one should bear in mind that some 80%
of all machines throughout the world produce yarn in the count range from
Ne 5 to Ne 30, with modal count range 18 Ne-30 Ne. Three (3) spinning
technologies namely ring, rotor and air-jet spinning with their different focus
on applications cover almost the entire range of the yarn fineness. While
comparing machine productivity by type of technology, a rotor can produce
up to 7.5 times a ring spindle can do. An air jet frame can produce nearly 14
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times and a vortex frame can produce up to 18 times more than a regular
ring frame. But vortex spinning cannot produce enough stronger yarn.
Therefore, For higher productivity of yarn and for efficient space utilization,
in the future Bangladesh has to increasingly go for rotor and air jet spinning
with increased focus on low to middle count. Also limited use of friction
spinning (DREF System) can be thought for the near future, in particular to
produce novelty yarn with the mixes of jute and cotton with manufactured
fibres.
The partial cause of low contribution by Bangladesh PT to woven sector is

also due to our deficiency to spin quality warp yarn using ring-spinning
system. This is purely a technology management issue that has to be dealt
seriously in the future with more technological knowledge and skill. Also
Bangladesh needs deepening of its spinners’ knowledge and enhancing their
skill for long staple spinning with the inputs like polyester, acrylic, nylon,
viscose lyocells, elastomeric fibbers, etc. or their mixes. And accordingly the
hardware specifications should be redesigned for new units to be setup.
Since garment waste recycling is on the verge of expansion and its fibbers
are being spun in a very crude way in the informal sector, the needed
technological modalities have to be designed along with selection of efficient
technological hardware chain and right process parameters for turning out
effectively utilizable yarns from the wastes.
Bangladesh should also go for fibres or filament spinning by producing the

respective polymers. But this needs giant investment in addition to cheap
price of gas or abundance of petroleum bi-products at cheaper costs.
Introduction of polymer-based fibres spinning technology is not a viable
thinking of the moment as it is very much unlikely to manage all this to get
in that way within next 5-10 years. However, producing fibres, filament, tow
or top though melt spinning by using chips/pellets/granules are viable in
Bangladesh and already there are some illustrations of the same. But such
technologies being used have become now old in many cases and need
replacement with the newer ones that are more productive and quality
prone.
Since fashion yarns and the corresponding products are more value prone in
the international market, Bangladesh should also go for production of various
Integrated Multi-component Yarns such as integrated composite spinning
(ICS) yarn, cover spun yarn, selfil yarn, ply yarns etc. By using some special
attachments and twisting machines with the existing ring and rotor
machinery more efforts should be spent to produce many demand oriented
fashion yarns such as slub yarns, cabled yarns, flake yarns, spiral yarns,
boucle or loop yarns, knot or spot yarns chennile yarns, etc.
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Various types of high value mélange yarns for sweater and other knitters can
be manufactured by using some special devices with the existing machinery
chain of conventional rotor and ring spinning. Only knowledge and proper
experiences are to be added there.
In the future, Bangladesh needs to adjust its long staple spinning technology
for enhancing texturing effect to produce high value textured yarns. There is
a need for qualitative improvement of high bulk yarn and loop bulk yarn
(e.g., coiled, curled, crimped yarn, etc.) and stretch yarns (e.g., heat set
fibers, bi & multi constituent yarns, electrometric, and chemically treated
natural fiber yarn, etc.).
In filament spinning, particularly in respect of melt spinning technology,

changes are to be brought to further improve the quality of un-drawn yarn
(UDY), partially oriented yarn (POY), fully drawn yarn (FDY), etc. so that
better textured yarn could be produced from them, finally.
Bangladesh export oriented spinning has been found very responsive to the
new & productive technology of European origin (including Trutszler of
Germany & Reiter of Switzerland, Savio of Italy) and developed Asian
Sources like Japan (Toyoda), which is very costly. However, recently efforts of
combining efficient but comparatively low cost Asian technology (mostly high
grade Chinese machines namely ring frame, card and comber) with European
technology have been found proven in many cases and such efforts should
be encouraged in the future too. Of course, the best option would be rethink
of spinning machine manufacturing by Bangladesh Machine Tools Factory
with the foreign collaboration.
5.3.2 Weaving
Apart from lack of organization and coordination, Bangladesh weaving sub-

sector is plagued by technological backwardness, capacity shortage and low
capacity utilization, poor quality, low productivity, high cost of production,
shortage of textures and designs. Technologically, Bangladesh weaving is
tuned primarily to feed the domestic needs and secondarily to meet the
needs of export oriented RMG units. However, since the last 10-12 years, the
weaving sub-sector has successfully been turning out hometextile goods
(mainly bed sheets and bed covers) for different developed nations’ markets.
Over the last 5-7 years, the hometexitle based weaving is growing with
increasing angular line.
Bangladesh weaving faces two-fold demands from both local and

international markets. Local fabric market is expanding due to increase of
population with enhanced per-capita consumption and change of taste.
Global growth of woven materials and Bangladesh’s enhanced access to the
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global woven market has increased the demand potentiality for the country’s
export oriented woven RMGs and direct export of woven goods.
Globally reputed “Research And Markets” estimates that fabric weaving

consumes about 28 million tons of fibers per annum – equivalent to over half
of the global textile market. Moreover, global production of woven products
will grow by 25% between 2002 and 2010, reaching more than 35 mn tons.
Some 85% of this growth will take place in Asia. The imports of apparel and
textiles will rise from developed economies like USA and the western
countries of Europe and Japan, along with some newly emerged economies,
such as South Korea and Taiwan. Certainly, import growth there has
witnessed high angular vertical rise in the previous years.
The rising folds of demanded fabrics can grossly be classified into:
• Fabrics for apparels

• Hometextiles
• Technical textiles
Woven fabrics are widely used in apparel assortments, starting from shirt,
trousers, tops, shorts/skirts to innerwear, outerwear, nightwear and
underwear, as well as in specialized apparels like protective clothing and
sportswear & swimwear. Home textile also contributes considerably in woven
fabric in products assortments like curtains & windows, various furnishing
fabrics, tablecloths, bed & linens, carpets, mats, etc. The technical textile
gamut includes products of various industrial applications including
automobile and transpiration textiles, geotextiles, sailcloth - tent and fabrics
used architectures, transportation and tarpaulins, fabrics for military and
engineering applications, etc. Medical assortments (starting from bandage &
protective assortments to apron, globes, tissue wrapping papers, and many
things) that are also technical textiles, now often placed under separate title.
Bangladesh could go for any or all of these items, as mentioned above,
having rising demand in the international market.
But the existing structure of technology is acting as a barrier in making such

ambitious trials. Bangladesh weaving technologically can be categorized as:
• Primitive handlooms characterized with low speed (low productivity),

narrow product ranges and defect potentials.
• Decentralized weaving mostly with power driven shuttle looms (low
speed, defect potential, high weft insertion cost, non-automotive, etc.)
lacking adequate back and front process machinery; few of those have
limited shuttleless looms.
• Mill-sector weaving is generally balanced in terms of back and front
process machineries. But with few exceptions, the most of these are
technologically lagging behind with old generation or converted rapiers,
second-hand projectile looms (mostly converted from brand shuttle
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looms) and old and less efficient air jet looms of lower speeds as
compared to modern ones.
As a matter of fact, with this old technological content, Bangladesh weaving

will not be able to reap high benefit out from the demand prone international
woven market of fabrics and RMGs. Bangladesh weaving technology needs to
be refurbished gradually with the new generation weaving technology in the
future.
To effectively compete with the Asian competitors, Bangladesh should have

included in the inventory of weaving the following kinds of looms and
attachments:
High Speed Air Jet Looms: In order to achieve greater competence

Bangladesh weaving should have increased number of recently proven high
speed (in excess of 2000 m/min RFI or 750 PPM) & wider width air jet looms
to produce voile, acetate lining, mattress ticking, two panel sheeting, etc. in
addition to the existing fabrics of demand in the market. Picanol,
Toyoda/Tsudakoma and Promatech (Sommet & Vamatex) are the companies
of the front line to manufacture these looms. Fitting staubli jacquard and
electronic dobby increases the efficiencies of this looms to comply with
higher quality and design norms of the upper pile of international market.
High-speed Water Jet Looms: Because of overwhelming dominance of

cotton & CVC prone weaving, Bangladesh always was less interested for
water jet looms. But the recent trend for increasing share of nylon, polyester
and other hydrophobic fiber oriented fabrics in the orders of apparel (various
dress items including swimming costumes & sportswear), home textiles and
technical textiles (tents, umbrella, bags, etc.) is seriously pushing the
weavers to consider the inclusion of water jet looms in the factory. Recently
introduced Tsudcoma’s high-speed water jet loom for weaving taffeta can be
a good reference. So to capture more share in the global and domestic
markets, Bangladesh weaving technology should rethink of accommodating
high-speed water jet looms.
Faster Projectile Looms: Because of unusual high cost of modern

projectile looms, Bangladesh has limited number of projectile looms, mostly
old (of which few are made in Russia under Sulzer license) and of medium
width to form home textile and twill fabrics. But to compete with the
countries like India, Pakistan, China, Indonesia, etc. and to be more
completive in the global market, Bangladesh weaving should add Sulzer’s
new generation high-speed looms (in excess of 1400 m/min RFI or 350 ppm),
preferably the post 2005 models, having width up to 3.9 m.
Faster Rapier Looms: Rapiers looms are exceptionally good to produce

fabrics of shirts and those needing simple plain texture. Apart from some
20% modern rapier looms, Bangladesh has quite a large number of old and
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refurbished flexible rapier looms but those are characterized with low speed.
For the post MFA era competition, those have to be replaced by new
generation rapier looms manufactured by Picanol, Vamatex, Sulzer and
Dornier having speed in excess of 1400 m/min RFI and 450 ppm and width of
the range up to 3.6 meter.
Multiphase Weaving: This is a new technology of weaving but gaining

popularity all over the world for extreme high productivity (first revealed in
ITMA’ 95 by Sulzer Textile’s). Because of its extreme high speed (in excess of
6000 m/min RFI and 3230 ppm), its labour costs decline drastically. The
machine is proven for production of plain weave fabrics, including cretonne
and twill. Bangladesh weavers also should carefully examine the operational
viability of this machine for the purpose of technology transfer and to acquire
the competence to compete with the weavers of the developed nations.
Loom Attachments (Accessory Devices & Equipment): As a matter of

fact, attachments impart loom with design efficiency to ornament fabrics
with eye-catching designs and thus add value to the fabrics and
corresponding end products. As a part of technology change, sophistication
of Bangladesh weaving with modern attachments is essential, in the post
MFA era, to cope with the intensified competition with the present bulk
suppliers of fabrics such as India, Pakistan, Indonesia, Thailand, Hong Kong
and Mainland China.
In connection with this Bangladesh will have to accept new jacquard concept
for new approaches for shed formation such as Grosse and UISHED and
Staubli UNIVAL. Groose Unshed is jaquard system that is efficient for quick
style change (QSC) in high-speed looms. Staubli UNIVAL (100) is an
electronic jacquard shedding mechanism that forms shed by controlling each
individual warp by a stepping motor.
Dornier has discovered on-the-fly automatic pattern change device on air jet
looms that can work together with stauubli. Several companies have
successfully devised pneumatic tuck-in-motion to hold the filling end and
then to be tucked into the next shed effectively.
Similarly, Sumo Motor is a new development by Picanol that can be run with
program. By using summo motor, the initial torque can be controlled and the
start marks can be significantly reduced. Sumo motor is extremely helpful for
weaving with different filling yarns.
Needle Punching Machines: Needle punching machines are getting

success day be day to produce needle fabrics that are being used mostly for
technical textiles
The change technology of Bangladesh weaving should accommodate

provisions for attachments and needle punching machines too.
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To make handlooms completive in the domestic market and to enable it to
export in the global market, some modifications have to be made to
augment productivity by vitalizing weft insertion motion and to improve
quality by attaching modern attachments.
5.3.3 Fabric Processing
Apart from 359 semi-mechanized and mechanized factory grade processing

houses, Bangladesh fabric-processing sub-sector is characterized with
innumerable unorganized cottage type dye-houses, scattered in urban and
rural areas, mostly based on traditional handlooms and hosiery industries.
Given that cotton comprises more than 50% of the fibers consumed globally,
naturally Bangladesh is a place where cotton textile or cotton processing
prevails over the others.
In case of woven fabric processing, the number of units capable of supplying

high quality woven fabrics for global market is not more than 3 dozens. The
local process houses can meet only 20-25% requirement of the woven cloths
demanded by the export oriented woven RMG units.
Except few exceptions, Bangladesh products lie in the bottom pile of the
global market in terms of price. But in the long run, Bangladesh cannot
effectively compete with these low cost products because labor cost is
increasing, gas supply has reached a stage signaling shortage of gas and rise
of energy/power cost, and also effluent treatment cost is going to further
burden the processing cost. Moreover, while considering the change aspects
of the technology, we should remember that the global trend lies in the
increased emphasis on the production of higher-value textile goods.
The high-value textile goods can be produced and successfully marketed by
efficiently addressing the following issues in combination with skilled human
resources:
Modern technological hardware

High value dye and chemicals
• Energy & water savings
Effluent treatment
Recycling
The approach of future technological change, therefore, should bring the

above issues in the center of the focus.
Why high value dye chemicals?

Apart from the insistence for complying with OKOTEX requirements, the
Regulation for the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of
Chemicals popularly known as REACH has already been enforced in EU on
June 1st 2007. This Regulation will bring major changes in the global
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chemicals industry mostly for manufacturers and importers of substances
and preparations into the EU. Similar laws are there in USA, Canada &
Austrailia; Japan also has the standard of similar nature. Further, the trend
towards increased environmental consciousness is going to influence this
market in the most important way. The countries that are constantly
developing environmental friendly processes and chemicals will be gainers in
the process.
Firstly, the textile companies around the globe are adopting innovative
‘green’ fabric processing techniques to bring natural fibres environmental
footprint inline with sustainability goals in the world market. On the other
hand, there is now a global trend of increased emphasis on the production of
higher-value textile goods irrespective of fibres origin. This needs quality dye
staff and chemicals that are in conformation with the growing environmental
regulations. Naturally, this will promote the use of more expensive chemical
dyes and finishes, which will result in gaining market value.
Already many less developed countries like Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and
India have started using higher value dyes and chemicals so as to meet
standards in important export markets. Bangladesh dye houses have to think
of this issue matching with the existing pattern of supply and anticipated
global market.
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Energy & Water Savings:
In the future, the gas price or cost of electricity is likely to increase because
of possible shortage and/or its diversified uses along with more cost
efficiency. For example, use of gas/electricity is economically more efficient
in ship building, vehicle manufacturing, or mineral exploration, or even in
agriculture than textile. All this finally would cause the processing cost to
increase in the future. Bangladesh processing houses in the future should be
very calculative in regards of economic consumption of energy and effective
recycling of the same while selecting technologies.
Similar is the case with water. Use of more water means increased cost of
water sourcing and water treatment; more consumption of water will call for
enhanced scale of effluent treatment that again will cause more energy to
consume and finally burden the product cost. Reduction of bath ratio is one
of the technological ways to reduce water consumption. It is to be
remembered that consumption of water depends on type of fiber; for
example polyester processing needs almost 50% water. So, the technology
as well input materials (fiber) should be selected considering all aspects so
that processing becomes finally viable at the costs incurred for water and
recycling of polluted water.
Effluent Treatment
Inclusion of effluent treatment plant (ETP) in a dyeing house is now under

international as well as native governmental compliances. Hardly a nation
will endure any business harmful to public health vulnerable to sanitation
system and ecology. On the other hand, international market will be putting
non-tariff barrier to export of the products produced by any non-complaint
industry. So, it is a daylight reality that all the dye houses should have active
ETP selected or designed so as to cut effluent treatment costs at possible
lowest.
In connection with this, support to the local institutional effort for biological
treatment plant should be augmented. Initially the combination of imported
technology with the local ones should be examined to design and implement
appropriate and cost effective effluent treatment technology.
Recycling
Recycling in textiles involves materials in addition to water and energy.
Technology of recycling of textile waste products and applications of
recycled textiles are the matters now bearing immense importance. In the
countries of the developed nations the recycled textile products are used in
wider area of life including in the operating theatre, for soil stabilization and
in concrete reinforcement.
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Recycling in textiles presents several promising technologies and ideas. An
increasing amount of waste is generated each year from textiles and their
production. For economic and environmental reasons it is necessary that as
much of this waste as possible is recycled instead of being disposed of in
landfill sites. The rate of textile recycling is still relatively low in Bangladesh
but is believed to increase considerably in the years to come. According to
the knowledgeable sources, on average, roughly 1 to 2 lac tones of textile
wastes are currently dumped in Bangladesh but what extent being recycled
is not properly known.
Considering the diversity of fibrous waste and structures, several

technologies must work in the future in an integrated way in order to
increase the rate of recycling.
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Needed change in Modern Processing Technological Hardware
Wet processing technological machines vary depending on the type of

processing treatments to be given namely, dyeing or printing or complex of
both; whilst the outputs in each case have to undergo finishing treatment.
So, ideas of possible technological changes have to examine these specific
areas, as discussed below.
New Technological Avenues for Dyeing Machines: Bangladesh woven

dye houses having export experiences are introduced with all conventional
dyeing such as rope or beck dyeing, jig dying, jet dyeing, pad batch dyeing,
etc.
The recent trend of using high temperature machines instead of mere
atmospheric temperature machines is a good sign of changing dying
technology in the positive direction by the dye houses.
The required change area for processing hardware is exhaustive and needs
larger space to discuss. Here we discuss on a few of those.
In Bangladesh, jig dyeing is mostly conducted in open bath, which has to be
closed increasingly in the future. For future of jigger, the local dye houses
should look at recently introduced new fabric-dyeing machines analogous to
Italy-based Brazzoli S.p.A. (Innoflow® EXL and Multiflow® MUST) with its
patented transverse dyebath circulation with a 1:3 liquor ratio, leading to
greater efficiencies in dyeing and washing.
In the future, the indigo and other dying machines should be more electronic
and computer controlled based (e.g., Slasher of Moenus-Sucker, Morrison
with its Spectrum™ Indigo Dye Box) with a new automatic program for
dosing dyes for improved shade control through monitoring and alarming.
For the futuristic example of continuous dyeing, Bangladesh dye houses may
look at similar efforts made by Küsters that invented an improved S-Roll
having electronic pad pressure control and a new rubber coating called
BlueNip with better chemical resistance. The Küsters Dye Pad with two new
S-Rolls provides the dyer with an expanded pad pressure range and online
control of the padding process.
Interesting may be the Benek’s (Turkey) offer to control the dyeing process
with heat exchangers optimized for batch size is excellent and also
something new to be studied.
Exciting new development in indigo dyeing has been made by Gaston

Systems Inc., Stanley, N.C., USA. The formula N process applies foamed
reduced indigo to de-sized fabrics. Multiple foam applicators operating under
a nitrogen atmosphere produce indigo dye effects on a variety of fabrics with
lower capital investment, operating costs and effluent treatment costs than
other processes while offering greater styling potential.
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For bringing improvement of piece dyeing, it would be interesting to examine
Fong’s Jumboflow and Eco-88D piece-dyeing machines. The Jumboflow can
dye up to 280 kg per dyeing tube — up to 12 tubes — with an extremely
efficient heat exchanger, and allows the cooling and rinse cycles to be
combined, saving water, time and energy. The Eco-88D is designed for light-
to medium weight fabrics made from man-made fibers and has two dyeing
compartments in a single-tube machine. Spray nozzles inside the dyeing
compartments reduce friction between fabric and metal and lessen fabric
defects arising from fabric rubbing bare metal.
For delicate fabrics and fabrics with high levels of elastane dyeing machine
with Airflow technology is a new illustration. “Airflow Lotus” made the latest
development in this area. This dyeing machine is specially designed to dye
light fabric with reduced water and energy requirements. For another
example of newer technology to dye delicate fabrics we may refer to Athena
H fabric-dyeing machine, the latest development of Sclavos S.A., Greece,
which also offers low operating costs and reduced water and energy
consumption.
Thies GmbH & Co. KG’s of Germany has been able to reduce the amount of
water needed for dyeing in its product line of fabric- and yarn-dyeing
equipment displayed, which included the Luft-Roto short-liquor dyeing
machine, (HT/AT jig).
Apart from new technological hardware, there have been revolutionary

changes in the pattern of process itself. Bangladesh dye houses should also
look at these changes. For example, using of ultrasound technique
introduced by Sokolov and Tumensky and subsequently evaluated by Brauer
as an alternative as compared to conventional textile processing. Many
progresses have been underway to make dyeing highly cost-economy.
The prospect of nano-technology in dyeing is very hopeful and Bangladesh

processing houses should monitor closely the exploitation economy of the
technology in Bangladesh under the changing global market context.
The 3D dyeing has been increasing globally; Bangladesh should augment

gradually the 3D (Garments washing) dyeing capacity for local and
international market in the future.
It is worthwhile remembering that an efficient dyeing is possible when the

very accurate colouring effort is itself supported by matching pre-
treatment/pre-colouring and post colouring/finishing technologies.
Also there are many things involved with the dyeing technology: proper
selection of dyes & chemicals, correct treatment of water, strong process
control with correct formulation of recipe, etc. For example with the
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introduction of a new silicone softener, Midland, Mich.-based Dow Corning
Corp. hopes to reduce the amount of water it takes to process denim fabrics.
Dow Corning® this type of process technological information is to be
updated and disseminated regularly.
To be efficient in terms of optimal recipe formulation, Bangladesh dye

houses should go for enhanced use of laboratory dyeing machine that
accurately simulates production. New generation colour kitchens and modern
testing equipment including high resolution spectro-photometers, electrolyte
testers and arrangement for various chemical testing should be included in
the inventory of dye houses.
As a matter of fact, huge space is needed to provide examples. It is for this

reason, the evolutions from all the international trade fairs including the
famous ITMA, international technological reports, research papers and patent
information should be discussed in threadbare and the conclusions should be
disseminated regularly among the dyers/colourists to cope up with the
changing technological issues.
5.3.4 Printing
Bangladesh cottage processing houses have long tradition of practicing block
printing and hand screen-printing. In the organized sector, the roller printing
work started since Pakistan period and introduction of mechanized flat
screen-printing started in 1980s only. As a matter of fact, the boom of
export oriented apparel units and home textiles created enhanced scope of
functions for rotary screen printing (a combined advantage of roller and
screen) in Bangladesh since the middle of 1990s. Although there are some
jet spray printing machines in some large processing houses, but further
investigations have to be made to detect the presence of micro jet printing,
capable of producing high value printing outputs.
The manufacturers are increasing machine speeds for enhanced productivity

and width too meet the requirement of the markets, apart from changing
attachments and accessories for qualitative improvement of printing. Over
the last decade, quite remarkable changes have taken place with the design
and perfection of ink jet and other conventional dyeing machines by a
number of manufacturers (e.g., Hangzhou Kaiyuan Computer Technology Co.
Ltd. of China, Italy-based Monti Antonio S.p.A., Zimmer Textile Technology
GmbH of Austria, DuPont Imaging Technologies, Stork Prints BV, Italy-based
F.lli Robustelli S.r.l. etc.) assuring a high level of quality and reliability. But
these changes have yet to cast shadow on Bangladesh fabric printing.
Although there is little practice of conventional heat transfer printing, there is

no evidence of infrared heat vacuum transfer printing and wet heat transfer
printing that can turn out quality print on cotton/natural fiber blended
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materials. There is also no vivid presence of TAK dyeing process that can
produce random coloration on fabric, producing printing effect. Likewise,
there is presence of converted forms of photo-printing, but no presence at all
of the modern digital printing that has an emerging market in USA and other
countries of developed nations. Digital textile printing is advantageous for
sampling, strike-off, and mass customization; it can drastically reduce
turnaround time for sampling from six to eight weeks with traditional
technology to perhaps just a few days. The newer digital printing
technologies open things up for a wide variety of incremental applications.
For the purpose of improvement of printing, Bangladesh is to study Pigment

inks from Yuhan-Kimberly Ltd., Korea, referred to as “nano” inks because of
their very small particle size of less than 100 nanometers. This small size
allows for a high level of color saturation in prints. The Yuhan-Kimberly UJET
MC2 printers uses these inks, unique fiber-reactive inks, and acid & disperse
inks as well, to provide flexibility and economy in printing a wide variety of
fabrics. For safer production at textile mills, as well as consumer safety — for
example, the new formaldehyde-free Helizarin pigment printing system is
also interesting from the point of view of technological progress.
Bangladesh is yet to stand at per India or Pakistan in terms of high value and
safe printing jobs, not to speak of the countries of developed Asian nations &
Europe. Bangladesh fabric printing is yet to be introduced with many types of
printing technology capable of turning goods having demand in the upper
pile of the global market.
5.3.5 Finishing
As compared to the nearest competitors like India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and
China, Bangladesh is technologically lagging well behind in fabric finishing.
Among various causes, this is also a reason that Bangladesh woven apparel
is not being well supported by the local textiles in terms of quality & high
value weave texture. On the other hand, free flow of Indian printed clothing
materials to the local market through different paths is also a factor
discouraging the local investment for the costly high technology, as
understood from the interaction with the printers.
Nationally and internationally, effects and functions are still a hot topic.
Today, most consumers expect a garment to offer some functional features.
As a result, the demand for functional textiles for wrinkle-free, antimicrobial,
and anti-stain and soil finishes is increasing. Proper change approach is to be
taken to make Bangladesh finishing industry equipped those technologies.
The possible change technology perspectives in finishing could be more

understood by the recently developed finishing machines. For example,
Zephyra ZM 60 air-jet finishing machine of Alliance Machines Textiles,
France, which processes all types of woven and knit fabrics in rope with air
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nozzles to transport the fabric through the machine at very high speeds (800
m/min) with providing an efficient, tumbling action. The machine can handle
both dry and wet treatments. Multifinish air-jet finisher of Flainox S.r.l. Italy,
can treat cord and other hard fabrics with impressive degree of softness
without beating the fabric against grills or sections.
French manufacturer Dollfus & Muller has a new machine for compacting felt
denim and other hard textured fabrics with improved hand and drying.
Lemaire S.a.r.l., France, offers a range of calendars that can be used for
transfer-printing, laminating, heat-setting, metal foil lamination, waxing,
calendering and heat-bonding. The company offers six ranges of differing
widths, roll diameters and speeds. Morrison’s YieldMAX™ software works
with sanforizors and compressive shrinkage ranges to better control
shrinkage. Biancalani S.p.A., Italy, has its Airo® series of high productive
finishing machines working at 200c can improve dramatically hand on
printed textiles and offers an environmentally friendly option (because it
does not use chemicals apart from optional softeners)
In the near future, for improved shrinkage and drying treatment enhanced
use of such equipment can be anticipated as: Fong’s Shrinkage Dryers
(BSDs) that operates from widths of 2 to 3.2 meters and can handle 190 to
1,300 kg/hr, respectively; Germany-based Brückner Trockentechnik GmbH &
Co. KG.’s tenter (offering the highest performance in drying with energy-
saving concepts); and new Montex 7000 TT (Monforts Textilmaschinen
GmbH & Co. KG, Germany) is a completely new finishing concept specifically
developed for coatings and technical textiles to provide the highest product
quality with absolutely uniform drying. Latter has a large number of
improved and new mechanical finishers, ranging from sueding machines to
open-width compactors. That also has made improvements in its Ultrasoft
sueding machines, which come in models for open-width woven and knits,
tubular fabrics, and high-speed open-width.
Santex Group International AG, Switzerland is an open-width compacting

machine with the fastest and highest-performing compactor ever made. It
performs well on knits and woven alike.
Italy-based Unitech Textile Machinery S.p.A.'s Comet division now offers its
new Pegasus X3 patented brushing machinery with brushing options for all
open-width and tubular fabrics and is the only machine on the market that
can do both with no changeover required.
Larger radio-frequency (RF) dryer of Italy-based Stalam S.p.A, high-pressure

of Italy-based Loris Bellini S.p.A dryer, Unitech's Pentek division promoted its
enAIRgy XL tumbling and new Trippo tumbling dryer (exclusive continuous
tumbling process) are technologically improved dryers that will be replacing
the existing types in the future.
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Apart from these, use of finishing machines for grinding, roughing, shearing,
stone-wash of existing and new technology will increase in the future.
The above-mentioned changes in technologies are indicative ones, which

have to be taken into consideration in designing new mills or for BMRE
purposes.
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Strategy to Make
Bangladesh PTS
Gradually Self-reliant
6.1 Strategy for New Capacity Creation
There are many factors to be considered for creation of new capacity. Of

course market is the prime factor that is often measured in terms of
demand-supply gap provided other factors remain supportive. We have
earlier determined the demand-supply gap as shown below.
Fabrics in million meters and yarn million kg
Total Total Yarns
Year Domestic Knit Woven Fabrics
Demand-supply
2,703 10,312 4,214 17,229 2,872
Gap at 2014-15
One can determine the needed manufacturing capacity against the above
mentioned demand-supply gap directly in the way shown below.
Number of
Sl.
No.
Type of Textile Processing Industry Demand Gap unit to be
built up
Spinning Unit (25,000 spindles/unit with 4.6
1.
million kg capacity each)
2,872 million kg 624
Weaving (120 shuttleless looms/unit with 13 2,703+4,214 =6,917
2. 532
million meter capacity each) million meters
Knitting and Knit-Processing (1,725 tons per 10,312 million
3. 996
year) meters
Woven Fabric Processing (20 million meters
4.
annual capacity per unit)
6,917 million metres 346
It is uncontroversial to favour opinion for further capacity building given that

the existing and the anticipated demand-supply gap is so high. But, it is
never a wise strategy to go for 100% capacity creation. Because nowhere in
the world one can find 100% capacity is created against the demand gap.
Naturally everywhere there remains certain gap met out of import. So, we
also suggest considering the following issues in creating the capacities:
• Bangladesh should go for creating a part of the capacity to make the PT

industry self-reliant gradually with specific incremental target over spited
periods of times say within successive 5 years frame of time.
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• Greater incremental target can be put for domestic production, given that
that we have demand prone inbuilt domestic market having more reliable
supply chain; enhancement of domestic production also helps bringing
the balance of payment in our favour through reducing import
dependence.
• Comparatively lower incremental target should be put for production of

fabrics for the export oriented RMG units, because demand necessitated
by this market is bigger and the investment needed to create matching
capacity is not overnight manageable; also the expansion of this market
dependent on series of factors including some uncertainties.
• The yarn manufacturing capacities should be matched with the capacities

of fabric production and fabric processing.
• It may be assumed that over the next 5 years gradually the sector will
produce 84% fabrics against the domestic needs of fabrics, 90% of the
fabrics needed for export oriented knit industry and 50% of the need of
the export oriented woven RMG industry. But at the same time, the new
capacity creation as per historical trend may follow the historical pattern
of production too( i.e., the sector if then also produces 55% requirement
of domestic fabric, 26% for export oriented woven RMG and 85% of the
knit RMG with the then available capacity ). In that case, the scenario of
actual demand gap may be as under (refer to table 4.9):
Table-4.9: Demand Gaps of Fabrics (million meters):

Projected for 2014-15
Description Domestic
Export
Total
Total
Fabric
Knit Woven
(i) Demand 4,205 13,899 2,463 23,030
(ii) Domestic Actual production/ 3,574 12,509 1,970 18,053
Production Plan (as % of total (85%) (90%) (50%) (78%)
demand)
(iii) (-) Production with existing 2,312 11,814 640 14,767
facilities (55%) (85%) (26%) (64%)
(iv) Remaining Fabrics to be
produced through creation of 1,261 695 1,330 3,286
new capacity [ii-iii]
548
Yarn to be Produced million kg
To cope up with the shortfall of yarn and fabrics by 2014-15, apart from
regular growth of the industry, the following number of units will be needed
to be created further. And the country should have the preparedness for
that.
Sl. Type of Textile Processing Industry Demand Gap Number Estimated Total
No. of unit Cost per Unit Investment
to built (million taka) Cost
up (million taka)
1. Spinning Unit (25,000 548 million 119 800 95,
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spindles/unit with 4.6 million kg kg 200
capacity each)
2. Weaving (120 shuttleless 1261+1330 500 99,
looms/unit with 13 million =2,591 654
capacity each) million
meters 199
3. Knitting and Knit-Processing 695 million 200 13,
(1,725 tons per year) meters 67 400
4. Woven Fabric Processing (20 6,917 million 600 77,
million meters annual capacity metres 730
per unit) 130
Total 2,591 million 285,
meters 119 984
Thus, by 2014-15, GOB has to create environment and make policy for
financing by banks with minimum equity and interest rate. So that
entrepreneurs come forward to invest in PTS. In addition govt. has to take
positive steps for bringing FDI. Total financing need is taka 286 billion for
establishing 119 spinning mills, 199 weaving factory, 67 knit and knit dyeing
units and 130 woven processing units to meet the demand.
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6.2 Investment & Cost Reduction Strategy
There is no way to create needed capacity without having the necessary

investment arranged. It goes without saying that any investment has to bring
satisfactory return. For any investment, return from any manufacturing is
directly proportional to the output’s sale price and inversely proportional to
conversion cost of the output. The prices of both inputs and outputs in the
open market systems vary a little giving least chance of becoming huge
gainer except some breakthrough. Comparatively better scope to bring good
return on investment lies in cutting the conversion cost by reducing cost of
utility (power, fuel & water), interest, labour cost without compromising
productivity and quality and various ineffective expenses.
If we look at our cost structure, we see unusually high is the impact of

interest on the conversion cost due to higher bank interest, to the extent of
14-17% per annum, on borrowed capital. This is further burdened by greater
equity sharing by the entrepreneurs (40 to 50%). With these are much
advantageous our competitors and other countries. Loan offer with low of
interest (@10%-11%) per annum by some public sector Banks, only for
export oriented industry, is quite tiny in comparison with the demand of the
investors. Moreover due to shortage of fund and various other reasons, these
loans are characterized with unusual delay in loan processing, high equity
proportion and extra procedural formalities. As a matter of fact, Bangladesh
PT sector should be given term loan and working capital loan @ 6-8% per
annum to sharpen it manufacturing competence with the Asian competitors.
Bangladesh India Pakistan China
Intere 14-17%(Private 5% 7.75%- 5.58-6.66%
st Bank) (Market rate 13.25%
Rate 9-10% (Public Bank) 10.25%)
In solving investment related hardship, we may learn lesions from our
competitors as well as neighbour India that has almost same social &
business configuration. The Government of India (GOI), Ministry of Textiles
(MOT), introduced Technology Upgrdation Fund Scheme (TUFS) for Textile
and Jute Industries on April 1, 1999, initially for a period of 5 years,
subsequently extended by 3 years to cover sanctions up to March 31, 2007.
TUF, a federal scheme that offers 5 percent interest subsidy for expanding
textile firms. The scheme was undertaken to provide massive investment
support to meet the targeted output of $85bn by the end of 2010, aiming
exports of $50bn. There is huge development foreseen in Indian textile
exports from the $17bn attained in 2005-06 to $50bn by 2009-10. Of the
total loan disbursements of Rs 27,500 crore, 45 percent has been accounted
for by the spinning sector, while garmenting and processing sectors have
received just Rs1,227 crore and Rs3,034 crore respectively. The Budget for
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FY 2007-08 has announced further extension of the Scheme by five years i.e
to last till, FY 2011-12. Post-extension, the Scheme is under revision and
sanctions (EOI has been called for recruitment of consultant) w.e.f April 1,
2007, have been kept in abeyance under TUFS.
Bangladesh PT sector is also suffering from shortage of loan from the

scheduled Bank. So, a separate fund for upgardation of textile industry
should be created by GOB so that Bangladesh PT & RMG sector can have the
needed number of industry established under the loan facility with the
interest rate not over than 8% (preferably at 6%).
To create the needed PT capacity in order to address huge unmet gap of

demand-supply both for local and export purposes, a mammoth investment
will be required which cannot fully be managed locally. So, the join-venture
(JV) projects as well as direct foreign investments (FDI) are to be encouraged,
apart from encouraging the local investors.
Effort for cost reduction is a continuous process. Apart from low interest rate
and low equity, there are other cost factors too. Rather targeting all at a
time, initially it is wise to consider some prioritised cost benchmarks. For
example, Bangladesh can initially target India & Pakistan’s those costs that
are higher than ours as immediate benchmark, then gradually the others.
For cost reduction in the PT sector, the best strategy would be undertaking
comprehensive scheme for enhancement of productivity though providing
skill training to all operatives and floor supervisors employed in the sector.
Similarly, need based training for production management should be
imparted to executive level technical staff. Another vital cost-cutting effort
involves reduction of wastage to optimum level, which can also be attained
through training of the techno-managerial staff.
Since in the PT sector, cost of raw materials alone accounts for 60-70% of
product cost. Much effort should be spent to purchase raw materials at
possible lowest prices. Only skilled marketing staff developed through
modern marketing training can do this job very well. So facilitating strong
marketing training in the PT sector would be another real strategic step in
connection with product cost minimization.
The other cost boosting issues such as erratic supply of power and gas (low
pressure and shortage of gas), transportation cost, port-efficiency, speed
money, etc. cannot be dealt alone by the manufacturer/exporters; the
government and the stakeholders have to go hand by hand to address these
issues.
6.3 Strategy for Power/Energy Provision
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As a matter of fact, Bangladesh spinning & other PT industries have been
able to compete in the international market due to cheap labour and low cost
of captive power generation by using gas. Against the shortage and erratic
supply of power, Bangladesh would not have second option but to go for
power generation by diesel. The cost of diesel based captive power
generation won’t make spinning viable in Bangladesh.
Rough estimate is that currently the spinning sub-sector alone needs roughly
1500 to 2000 MW electricity, the lion share of which is generated under
captive power generation. If the country goes for creation of the needed
capacity of 2014-15, 2,000 MW electricity will be needed.
Now question is that how much is our reserve and how much will be possible
to distribute, given that no clear cut study is at the table now to accurately
figure out that. There is good growth of other industrial sub-sector including
the potential agriculture & allied agro-industry sector, metallurgical sector,
and many other industries apart from increasing consumption by automobile
and households. All this has mammoth power requirement. In that case, to
sustain the projected growth of PT industry provision for sectoral allocation of
gas is essential.
In order to ensure the future industrial growth, the government has to decide
which would be the most cost-effective and sustainable sources of electricity
generation. Talking about solar energy is also far apart from the reality, at
least for industrial sector because of its unusual high cost of generation. And
this cost is not believed to come down to economic rate at least within next
10 years, the experts believe. So, the last option remains in hand is to
generate power through nuclear facility. But Bangladesh has not yet taken
any meaningful step in regard of this. Predicting the future growth the
government should allocate some gas reserve for PT & RMG industry only so
that these industries suddenly do not collapse for lack of gas/power. Side by
side the government should undertake nuclear power project without further
loss of time.
6.4 HRD Development Strategy

The most effective and proven way to enhance human resource
encompasses education and training. In Bangladesh, side by side the textile
colleges some 6 private universities have started providing honours level
textile education. Recently 4 textile colleges under DOT have started offering
4 years long B.Sc. courses in textile technology. On the other hand, the 6
textile institutes under DOT has been offering HSC level diploma education in
textile & RMG disciplines, while in the same areas another 40 TVI under DOT
is providing SSC level vocational education. There are 2 diploma colleges are
also providing education in textiles. There is further need to standardize the
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educations of these institutions so that they can gather almost equal level of
knowledge & skill to properly cater the need of the PT industries in the
country. So a textile education coordination unit should be installed for
monitoring textile educations and standardize the curriculum responding
industrial needs of the PT sector.
For textile training, Textile Industry Development Centre (TIDC) was

established in 1979 to provide skill development training to the technical and
other personnel employed in the public sector Textile Mills. Continuous
departure of the resource personnel from TIDC to private sector since 1994,
lack of modern training hardware and computer based facilities and lack of
efforts for strategic alliance with foreign universities and institutes having
specialized experience in textile related fields are the major causes of the
decay of its training capacity. With the boom of textile in the private sector,
the GOB felt the necessity to refurbish the TIDC through strengthening its
training capability and all other logistic supports to make it a center of
excellence. Keeping with this end in view, GOB conceived the idea of
converting TIDC into a national institute to serve the needs of the PT & RMG
industry of the country. Accordingly a project namely, National Institute of
Textile Training Research and Design (NITTRAD) was under taken. Further it
was decided that the NITTRAD will be operating under a private & public
management in bold cooperation with UNIDO. But so, far BTMA, the main
stakeholder that was entrusted by the government to push the institute front
has not been able to start imparting to training courses to the professionals
& supervisory manpower employed in the textile sector. So the sector wants
to see the government to be more vibrant to initiation of NITTRAD’s training
activity.
6.5 Research Facilitation Strategy
EU-UNIDO sponsored study, conducted by PPMA (2006), unveiled it that

Bangladesh industrial business culture, as a whole, is not yet conducive to in-
house research capacity development since products are mostly of basic
natures. But increasing involvement with global export business has started
creating necessity for taking research support.
Our survey findings also echo with the recommendation of PPMA that for
supporting the PT sector in acquiring more competence it is highly essential
to conduct researches in the following areas:
global and regional market research; products development; new
business/project ideas; economic sourcing of raw materials and strategic
marketing, innovative research towards maintenance (e.g., modernization
and reengineering with local resources) and replacement, developing quality
and productivity, friendly work norms, new work norms through
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experimentation of best work practice model in Bangladesh. Working
environment; comparative analysis of different technologies; developing
software for market research, inventory, production planning & controlling;
fashion designing and simulation of production process; analyzing/measuring
works and standardization of times; performance analysis & evaluation; e-
commerce; developing smart manual for maintenance, cleaning/oiling,
testing operations, industrial house keeping, work posture, labour
safeguards, etc.; developing strategies against fire hazards, building
collapse, and other disasters; improvement of in-shade environment;
improvement of gender relation for better cooperation; etc.
What we further would like to add that besides NITTRAD, the government
should enable DOT’s institutions, in particular those offering B.Sc. courses, to
conduct researches on the above mentioned areas.
Strategy for Accreditations Support to the Industry

EU-UNIDO sponsored study, conducted by PPMA (2006), Some 33% to 64% of
the PT industry and 60% of the RMG companies have no lab facilities and no
knowledge on standard testing activities. Most of them, unless is not
pressurized by the buyers or falls in critical problems, continue avoiding the
hassles of testing; under any urgency they go to BSTI, NITTRAD, SGS and
other private testing service providers. Many industries (particularly RMG
companies) have to send their specimen to foreign laboratories in Hong
Kong, Germany and elsewhere for quality confirmation. Even, some capable
companies having good testing facility also need to send samples for testing
to overseas countries as per instruction of buyers, as some of whom
seriously underscore local testing capability. As a result, the local companies
are paying huge foreign currencies to foreign testing labs for the necessary
testing certificates because the country do not have standard testing
laboratories articulated with qualified & skilled personnel and as such is not
accredited well internationally.
There should be strong and capable testing laboratory under NITTRAD and
DOT, with skilled manpower and accreditation right. They should provide
testing support to the industry at reasonable cost.
6.6 Effect of World-wide Recession on PTS
The ongoing global recession has already caught up with the country’s yarn
industry with substantial falls in its local and export demands and a huge
pile-up of unsold yarn. An increased import of low-cost yarn from
neighbouring India will make textiles sector more susceptible to loan
defaults. Easy access to import of the item from India at a cheaper rate has
worsened the situation and increased local millers fear.
100
According to industry insiders, the spinning mills in the country worth Tk
27,000 crore are having difficulties with an inventory of 2.5 lakh tonnes of
unsold yarn, worth Tk 2500 crore. Millers failed to clear stocks due to a
decline in demand and a flood of comparatively low-cost yarn from India.
Earlier, yarn imports from India were restricted, but the caretaker
government had withdrawn those restrictions allowing importers to act free.
Manufacturers are now importing Indian yarn at 15 to 20 cents lower rates
than the prices of local yarn on every pound.
To protect local spinning mills, the govt. should increase present 5% cash
incentive to 10% for at least one year and their loan repayment should be
relaxed or rescheduled.
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Evaluate the Manpower
Employed in PTS & Estimate
the Future Need of
Manpower & Institutional
Capacity to Provide PT
related training & Education
7.1 Abstract
The survey has been carried out to know the requirement of Textile
Technologists at different levels and to recommend and suggest the ways to
meet them in the shortest possible time. The demand and supply of the
textile products have been found on the basis of the survey data of Textile
Sector such as investment, installed capacities, manpower, import of
required raw materials and machinery/spare-parts, actual production, etc;
the domestic and export consumption of fabrics, RMG and other textiles have
been estimated; gap between installed capacity and actual production,
involved manpower present in the different textile sectors (industries,
institutes and others) have been found out and then the present institutional
capacity have been assessed.
The requirement of yarns (Cotton, Polyester, CVC, PC, Melange, Acrylic,

Viscose), fabrics (Woven, Knit) and RMG are vast compared to attainable
capacity. To fill up the demand-supply gap, a huge amount of investment
(DI/FDI), capacity utilisation of the existing mills, skilled manpower (Textile
Engineers) are needed. Present demand of skilled manpower (Textile
Engineers) estimated has been assessed on the basis of machine to man
ratio and load analysis carried out in selected case studies. (Ref. Scene)
Finally, a Computerized Data Bank/Database at DOT to update the current

developments of above survey parameters has been established.
7.2 Introduction
In Bangladesh, Textile & Clothing sector plays a vital role in the growth of
economy, the generation of employment (4.2 million people have been
employed, which is about 65% of the country's employment) and in the
earning of foreign exchange (77% of the national earning from export).
102
There are 5 prime sub sectors, such as Spinning, Weaving, Dyeing, Finishing,
Knitting, Garments Manufacturing and 14 sub-sectors. Spinning mills
produce about 678.6 M kg of yarn, which is used in handlooms, power looms,
weaving mills, Knitting factories and specialised textile mills.
For rapid changes of the technology used, materials produced and

applications in textile sectors, we need a large number of Textile Engineers.
Textile engineers can work in the areas, like Production, Machine
maintenance, Sales and Marketing, Procurement, Management Information
System (MIS) of textile industry, Research and development, Quality control
and testing organization, Educational Institutions, Banks, Customs, Trading
house, etc.
There are more chances to develop our textile periphery to recruit Textile
Engineers in agriculture, geo-technology, biomedical, airplane, automobile,
shipbuilding and sporting goods industries. The textile engineer is the
professional who manages the entire textile enterprise that is responsible for
wide range of products ranging from basic clothing to high performance
textiles.
With the aim to meet this demand and also to strengthen the technological
base of the industry, the DOT is in need of appropriate estimation of
requirement of Textile Technologists.
In this study, we have assessed the requirement of engineers / technologists

for textile sectors in the next forecasting 7-years time and the possible
sources of these technologists.
The country has one public Textile College and some private universities
producing a relatively small number of graduate textile engineers. As a
consequence, the textile sector is fully dependent on the highly paid
specialists from abroad. Therefore, we need a large number of textile
engineers and specialists locally. However, the government has opened the
Department of Textile Engineering at DUET and Mawlana Bhasani University
to meet the ever-increasing demand due to globalization and technological
development.
Within the last 10 years, a few numbers of Private Universities, such as,
Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology, Prime Asia University,
South-East University, City University & Green University of Bangladesh have
established textile department to teach B.Sc. Engineering in Textile.
7.3 Problem and issues
Although textile sector is number one foreign exchange earner; most of the
textile mills are running with poor capacity utilization in Bangladesh.
Knowledgeable quarters opine that the most critical reasons for this poor
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capacity utilization is the lack of sufficient number of skilled Engineers for
planning the textile industry. In the short run, we have to borrow Engineers
from other countries; but this cannot be a solution for long term for the
economic and technological growth of our country. As we have no textile
machine and chemical manufacturing industry, we are always dependent on
the foreign machinery as well as technicians. This dependence needs to be
removed through development of these capacities locally.
7.4 Present status of the manpower in textile sectors
Bangladesh textile industry is acutely suffering from shortage of textile

technologists. For example, the survey has covered 7,546 units, where 5,646
textile technologists were found employed. It means every unit has got on an
average less than one Textile Technologist.
104
Table-7.1: Summary Status of Existing Manpower in the Textile &
Garments Sector
Sl Sub Sector Textile Technologists
. Ph.D M.Sc./ B.Sc. Dip. Total
N MBA
o.
1 Spinning Industry 2 6 312 1275 1595
2 Weaving Mills 0 4 61 226 291
3 Composite Mills 0 3 33 67 103
4 Specialized Textile & Power 0 1 0 5 6
Loom
5 Knitting Industry 0 5 404 645 1054
6 Terry Towel Linen 0 0 12 60 72
Manufacturing Industry
7 Dyeing, Printing & Finishing 1 3 484 492 980
(Mechanized)
8 Dyeing, Printing & Finishing 0 0 166 160 326
(Semi-Mechanized)
9 Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing 0 0 6 12 18
10 Silk Industry 0 0 0 12 12
11 Sewing Thread Manufacturing 0 0 1 1 2
Industry
12 Sweater Industry 0 0 55 106 161
13 Ready Made Garments 0 4 270 164 438
Sub Total: 3 26 1804 3225 5058
14 Buying House 0 1 11 90 102
15 Textile Educational and 16 34 169 171 390
Training Institutions
16 Others 6 4 50 34 94
Sub Total: 22 39 230 295 586
Grand Total: 25 65 2034 3520 5644
Among the employed textile technologists in textile field only 2% have

Master and 36% have B.Sc. Degree level education in textile disciplines.
Textile diploma holders form the majority (62%).
Fig. 7.1:
105
Spinning sub-sector appears to be the largest employer of textile
technologists by number of people, followed by mechanized processing,
knitting, garments and others sub-sectors shown in the graph below.
Fig. 7.2 Distribution of Textile Technologists
1800
1600
7.5
1400
Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Sub-Sectors
7.5.1 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Spinning Sub-

sector
In Spinning Mills, there are, in all, 245,005 employees, out of whom, 1,595
are Textile Technologists. Among other employees, 17,678 are non-
technicians and others are general workers. For more details, Table – 7.3
1200
nologists
may be consulted.
Table – 7.3: Present Employment Position

Sub- Textile Technologists Non- Others (General Workers) Total G.
Sector techni Male Female Total
s cal
Perso
ns
Ph. M.S Gradu Diplo Tot Skill Unskill Skill Unskill
D c. ate ma al ed ed ed ed
1000
106
Spinni
2 6 312 1275 159 17,67 83,5 25,72 78,7 37,68 243,4 245,0
ng 5 8 42 4 85 1 10 05
107
7.5.2 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Weaving Sub-
sector
In Weaving Mills, there are, in all, 100,623 employees, out of whom, 291 are
Textile Technologists. Among other employees, 9,640 are non-technicians
and others are general workers. For more details, Table – 7.4 may be
consulted.

s cal
Perso
ns
Weavi 0 4 61 226 291 9,640 57,5 12,72 17,5 2,894 100,3 100,6
ng 75 0 03 32 23
7.5.3 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Composite Mills
Sub-sector
In Composite Mills, there are, in all, 14,127 employees, out of whom, 103 are
Textile Technologists. Among other employees, 2,088 are non-technicians
and others are general workers. For more details, Table – 7.5 may be
consulted.

Sectors techni Male Female Total
cal
Perso
ns
Compo 0 3 33 67 103 2,088 5,00 1,716 3,51 1,709 14,0 14,1

site 0 1 24 27
7.5.4 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Specialized

Textile Mills and Power Loom Industries Sub-sector
In Power Loom Industries, there are, in all, 49,536 employees, out of whom, 6
may be consulted.

s cal
108
Perso
Ph. M.S Gradua Diplo Tot Skille Unskil Skille Unski
D c. te ma al d led d lled
Power 0 1 0 5 6 17,04 18,58 10,30 2,23 1,36 49,53 49,5
Loom 8 2 3 5 2 0 36
109
7.5.5 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Knitting
Industries
In Knitting Industries, there are, in all, 520,710 employees, out of whom,

1,054 are Textile Technologists. Among other employees, 33,583 are non-
may be consulted.
Secto techni Male Female Total
rs cal
Perso
ns
Ph. M.S Gradu Diplo Tot Skille Unskill Skille Unskill
D c. ate ma al d ed d ed
Knitti 0 5 404 645 10 33,58 218,3 43,37 175,4 48,90 519,6 520,7
ng 54 3 76 3 15 9 56 10
Indus
try
7.5.6 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Terry-Towel &

Linen Manufacturing Industries Sub-sector
In Terry Towel & Linen Manufacturing Industries, there are, in all, 18,504
employees, out of whom, 72 are Textile Technologists. Among other
employees, 1,546 are non-technicians and others are general workers. For
more details, Table – 7.8 may be consulted.

s cal
Perso
ns
Ph. M.S Gradu Diplo Tot Skille Unskill Skill Unskill
D c. ate ma al d ed ed ed
Terry 0 0 12 60 72 1,546 8,25 1,680 5,42 1,522 18,4 18,5
Towel 6 8 32 04
7.5.7 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Dyeing, Printing

and Finishing Industries Sub-sector (Mechanized)
In Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Industries (Mechanized), there are, in all,

102,997 employees, out of whom, 980 are Textile Technologists. Among
other employees, 9442 are non-technicians and others are general workers.
For more details, Table – 7.9 may be consulted.
Secto techni Male Female Total
rs cal
110
Perso
Dyein 1 3 484 492 980 9,442 46,8 17,59 21,7 6,377 102,0 102,9
g 87 5 16 17 97
(Mech
a)
111
7.5.8 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Dyeing, Printing
and Finishing Industries Sub-sector (Semi-Mechanized)
In Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Industries (Semi-Mechanized), there are, in all,

38,137 employees, out of whom, 326 are Textile Technologists. Among other
employees, 1868 are non-technicians and others are general workers. For
Table –7.10: Present Employment Position

s cal
Perso
ns
Dyein 0 0 166 160 326 1,868 18,01 3,518 12,1 2,289 37,8 38,1
g 3 23 11 37
(Semi-
Mecha
)
7.5.9 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Synthetic Yarn

Manufacturing Industries Sub-sector
In Synthetic Yarn Manufacturing Industries, there are, in all, 7781 employees,
out of whom, 18 are Textile Technologists. Among other employees, 1,022
are non-technicians and others are general workers. For more details, Table –
7.11 may be consulted.
Sub- Textile Technologists Non- Others (General Workers) Tota G.
Sectors techni Male Female l Tota
cal l
Perso
ns
Syntheti 0 0 6 12 18 1,022 2,51 1,596 1,30 1,330 7,76 7,78
c Yarn 3 2 3 1
7.5.10 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Sewing

Thread Manufacturing Industries Sub-sector
In Sewing Thread Manufacturing Industries, there are, in all 3,166

employees, out of whom, there are 2 Textile Technologist. Among other
employees, 475 are non-technicians and others are general workers. For

cal l
Perso
ns
112
Sewing 0 0 1 1 2 475 1,87 124 638 48 3,16 3,16
Thread 9 4 6
113
7.5.11 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Sweater
Industries Sub-sector
In Sweater Industries, there are, in all, 597,520 employees, out of whom, 161
may be consulted.

cal
Perso
ns
Sweater 0 0 55 106 16 37,6 262,3 61,64 180,9 54,7 597,3 597,5
Industry 1 20 74 3 53 69 59 20
7.5.12 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Silk

Industries Sub-sector (110 Mills)
In Silk Industries, there are, in all, 3,762 employees, out of whom, 12 are
Textile Technologists. Among other employees, 549 are non-technicians and
others are general workers. For more details, Table – 7.14 may be consulted.
cal l
Perso
ns
Silk 0 0 0 12 12 549 1,26 528 777 633 3,75 3,76
Industry 3 0 2
7.5.13 Existing Manpower and Textile Technologists in the Ready

Made Garments (RMG) Industries Sub-sector
There are 2,503,785 employees in the Woven & Knit Garments, out of whom,
438 are Textile Technologists. Among other employees, 128,525 are non-
technicians in the woven garments industries, including others are general
workers. For more details, Table – 7.15 may be consulted.
cal
Perso
ns
Ph. M.S Gradu Diplo Tot Skille Unskill Skilled Unskill
ate ma al d ed ed
D c.
Woven
0 2 158 91 25 81536 4369 74796 74748 16099 15017 150203
Garment 69 8 2 81 2
s
114
1
Knit 0 2 112 73 18 46989 3209 61896 48241 89362 10015 100175

Garment 01 8 66 3
7
s
4 270 164 438 128,52 757,87 136,69 1,229,90 250,35 2,503,34 2,503,78
- 5 0 2 6 4 7 5
Total:
115
7.6 Requirement and Availability of Textile Technologists at Different
Levels
Methods of determination of Requirement and Availability of Textile

Technologists at Different Levels
The Models of Domestic and Export Demand and Supply Functions
Export demand/supply and local demand/supply in the model is measured in
terms of the following equations:
TD = f ( ED , DD ) -------------------------------------(1)
ED = g ( N p , RP , WE ) -------------------------------(2)
(+) (+) (+) (-)
DD = h( N d , LRP , BA ) -----------------------------(3)
(+) (+) (+) (+)
ES = i ( REP , IC , LT , LI , FI ) --------------------(4)
(+) (+) (+) (?) (?) (?)
DS = j ( RP , IC , LT , LI , FI ) ---------------------(5)
(+) (+) (+) (?) (?) (?)
Where: TD = Total demand

ED = Export demand
DD = Domestic demand
Np = World population
RP = Relative export price compare to international prices
WE = World economy
Nd = Population of Bangladesh
LRP = Local price compare to international prices
BA = Buying ability of Bangladeshi
ES = Export supply
REP = Relative export price
DS = Domestic supply
RP = Retail relative price
IC = Installed capacity of existing mi/cs
LT = Local technology
LI = Local Investment
FI = Foreign Investment
Elasticity of export demand for textile quality products with respect to

supply is very high. The positive elasticity of both export and domestic
demand, low cost of salary and wages makes Bangladesh an attractive
place for investment. Because of the limitation of our production capacity,
domestic demand increases and export supply decreases.
REGRESSION RESULTS
Forecast of next year’s productions:
116
First we have estimated a primary model using the variables growth-trend
of production of textile industries (Table- 4.6). Then, in the similar way, we
have calculated the resent growth-trend as well as projection of growth by
the equation (6) in linier regression as well as exponential method:
Pn = M + Pn −1 ------------------------------------(6)
M = Growth of production in a year, calculated by trend analysis and
global market analysis [1]
Pn = Production of a particular year
Pn −1 = Production of the previous year
Forecast of next years skilled manpower (Textile Engineers):

E n = E g − Rt + E n −1 ---------------------------(7)
En = Current number of skilled manpower
Eg = Growth of employment of skilled manpower, calculated by moving
average and exponential
method.
Rt = Number of retirement of skilled manpower in current year
En −1 = Number of skilled manpower in last year
By using the results of the regression of equations (6) & (7) i.e. current
production and manpower, the requirement of skilled manpower are fixed
up.
Co-relation of domestic and export demand of textile products and

demand-supply gap
Table 7.16 shows the import of raw material (Fibers, Yarns & Fabrics) in
textile industries. It is distributed in the RMG and non-RMG sectors. 60% of
raw materials are used in RMG sector and the rest for non-RMG. Table 7.16
shows that the 54.5% of raw material is used for export and rest 45.5% for
domestic. Table 7.16 and Fig. 7.4 show the total export of RMG as well as
yarn and fabrics. From these expressions, it can be showed that the Knit-
Garments are increasing exponentially and Woven Garments, yarn, Fabrics,
terry towel and home textile are increasing linearly.
Table 7.16: Statistics of Raw material Import (M. Kg) and their use
in RMG and Statistics
Non RMG of Sector
Raw material Import (M. Kg), Source: NBR
FY 2004 2005 2006 2007
Cotton Fibers 495.10 554.00 651.53 648.25
Cotton fabrics 122.79 166.48 169.20 176.56
Cotton yarn 72.09 95.16 90.94 142.77
Synthetic Fibers 96.48 103.01 93.59 85.81
Synthetic Yarn 45.17 55.23 48.30 43.50
Silk/Wool 2.13 2.01 2.12 2.00
Synthetic Fabrics 16.54 15.30 14.15 18.76
PC Fabrics 37.52 38.53 34.20 34.74
Total 887.82 1029.72 1104.03 1152.39
RM used in non-RMG (40%) 451.44 461.44 409.99 339.93
RM used in RMG (60%) 436.38 568.28 694.04 812.46
117
118
Fig. 7.3: Trend of raw material consumption for export and domestic
demand
25000
Table 7.17: Export Statistics (M. Dollar) for Textile Sub Sectors
(Sources EPB)
Export 2003-04 2004 - 05 2005-06 2006-07 2007 - 08

Knitwear 2148 2819.5 3817 4553.6 5532.52
Woven Garments 3538.1 3598.2 4083.8 4657.6 5167.28
20000
Sub-Total 5686.1 6417.7 7900.8 9211.2 10699.8
Textile Fabrics 27.15 16.96 36.88 36.08 66.57

Home Textile 135.49 156.14 165.25 256.97 291.39
Crores
Terrytowel 96.3 105.98 112.88

Sub-Total 162.64 173.1 298.43 399.03 470.84
Total 5848.7 6590.8 8199.2 9610.3 11170.6
119
Fig. 7.4: Growth trend of export of different items for Textile Sub
Sectors (Sources EPB)
7000
Yarn 6000
Table 7.18: Domestic Production of Yarn and Fabrics
FY
Production
(million k.g.)
Growth
%
in Fabric
Production
(million metre)
Growth in %
2003-04 380.00 12% 2,750 25%

2004-05 450.00 18% 3,400 23%
2005-06 537.00 17.5% 4,090 20%
2006-07 594.00 10.5% 4,910 20%
2007-08 * 710.00 19% 5,800 18%
Annual av. 15.% 18.8%
growth
Table- 7.19: Fabric Consumed by the RMG (See Section-4

conversion of Kg-Meter-Dozen)
5000
Export of Readymade Fabrics Consumed by RMG (M.
Garment Meters)
(Million Dozen)
Woven Knit Woven Knit Total
2003-04 90.48 91.60 1,675 1,648 3,323
2004-05 92.26 120.13 1,708 2,162 3,870
2005-06 108.81 165.02 2,015 2,970 4,985
2006-07 133.07 199.54 2,464 3,592 6,056
2007-08 147.85 234.52 2,738 4,221 6,959
D
120
Annual 11.67% 24.75% 11.67% 24.75% 18.24%
growth
121
Production Growth Scenario of Textile Sectors
In Table- 7.19 the historical growth of Export-oriented RMG Industry of

Bangladesh has been reviewed which shows a significant growth of demand
of RMG.
Fig 7.8 shows that the rate of increase in the production of textile sectors is
significant. There are remarkable growth of knitting production compared to
spinning and weaving production.
This is the reason, why we need to import the knit-yarn. So we need a huge
number of Textile Engineers in Spinning Mills to increase our Spinning
Production. As we can see that the production capacity utilization of Spinning
Mills is very poor (only 40-70%) in the running mills and there are a large
number of spinning Mills in an idle condition. As we have a huge amount of
idle assets, we can achieve our targeted yarn production for our woven and
hosiery fabrics. There must be a remarkable number of Textile Engineers to
run those idle Mills profitably.
Requirement of Skilled Manpower in Textile Sectors

Table 7.20 shows the required, existing and shortfall of technologists in
textile sector in Bangladesh. The requirement of skilled manpower has been
assessed by studying the technical manpower engaged in textile sectors in
advanced countries and well established textile industries in Bangladesh.
The requirement of technologists has been assessed on the basis of machine
to man ratio and load analysis carried out in selected case studies.
Table 7.20: Assessment of Requirement of Skilled Manpower in Textile Sector

Sub sector Required Existing Existing Shortfall
Ph. M.S B.S Dip. Tot Ph. M.S B.S Dip Tot Ph. M.S B.S Dip. Tot
D c/ c. al D c/ c. . al D c/ c. al
MB MB MB
A A A
Spinning Industry 92 484 261 495 814 2 312 12 159 90 478 229 368 655
0 9 5 6 75 5 8 4 0
Dyeing (All Unit) 65 163 182 250 456 1 650 65 130 64 160 117 185 325
4 8 0 3 2 6 4 6 4
Weaving Mills 35 16 255 510 816 0 61 22 291 35 12 194 284 525
4 6
Composite Mills 5 12 75 135 227 0 33 67 103 5 9 42 68 124
3
Specialized Textile 1 1 5 10 17 0 0 5 6 1 0 5 5 11
& Power Loom 1
Knitting Industry 55 87 426 843 141 0 404 64 105 55 82 22 198 357
1 5 5 4
Sweater Industry 3 21 72 288 384 0 55 10 161 3 21 17 182 223
- 6
Synthetic Yarn 3 9 60 114 186 0 6 12 18 3 9 54 102 168
Manufacturing -
Terry Towel Linen 1 1 20 80 102 0 12 60 72 1 1 8 20 30
Manufacturing -
Industry
Silk Industry 1 2 30 100 133 0 0 12 12 1 2 30 88 121
-
Buying House 0 150 300 600 105 0 11 90 102 0 149 289 510 948
0 1
Sewing Thread 1 4 20 39 64 0 1 1 2 1 4 19 38 62
Manufacturing -
Industry
Ready Made 86 814 187 700 977 0 270 16 438 86 810 160 683 934
Garments 9 0 9 4 4 9 6 1
122
Textile 65 119 250 180 614 16 169 17 390 49 85 81 9 224
Educational and 34 1
Training
Institutions
Others 10 10 165 50 235 6 4 50 34 94 4 6 115 16 141
Total: 423 189 799 174 277 25 65 203 35 564 398 182 595 138 220
3 1 16 23 4 20 4 8 7 96 79
Requirement, Existing & Shortfall of Textile Technologists shown in Table 7.20 have
been exhibited with the help of the following bar charts 7.5, 7.6 & 7.7.
123
Fig.7.5: Present demand of Textile Technologists:
8,000
7,000
The textile technologists have been grouped into PhD, MSc, MBA, BSc Engineers
and Diploma Engineers. The requirement of post graduates is 2,316, existing is
90 and shortfall is 2,226. Requirement of graduate engineers is 7,991, existing is
2,034 and shortfall is 5,957. Requirement of Diploma engineers is 17,416,
existing is 3,520 and shortfall is 13,896. The total requirement of technologists is
27,723, existing number is 5,644 and total shortfall stands at 22,079.
Fig.-7.6: Existing Textile technologists in textile sectors
1400
6,000
hnologists
1200
5,000
124
Fig. 7.7: Shortfall of Textile technologists in textile sectors
8000
7000
Fig 7.8 depicts the growth of the production of yarn, woven fabrics and
Knitted fabrics through the years 2003-04 to 2006-07. Based on actual
growth in these four years, the projection of production and technologists
have been shown in Figure 7.9. Figure 7.9 shows sector-wise projected
requirement of technologists – postgraduates, graduates and diploma
engineers in 2015.
6000
Fig. 7.8: Growth of Textile Sectors (Production)
chnologists
100
004 (%)
5000
90
125
Fig 7.9: Projection of Textile Technologists from 2007-08 to 2014-15
(year wise)
80000
Figure 7.9 shows year-wise total requirement of technologists from 2007-08

to 2014-15. Our study reveals that about 40% textile mills are running well;
management of the rest of the textile units are running with poor capacity
utilization mainly due to shortage of skilled manpower.
70000
Recommendation for availability of the Technologists
At present, we have a huge shortage of Textile Engineers of all categories;
we have no scope of higher education (M.Sc. and PhD). A large number of
brilliant and skilled manpower are trying to go abroad, but the developed
countries have no interest about textile research, as they are doing other
high tech business. So it is suggested to establish at least two Textile
Universities immediately for higher education. Table 7.21 a & b & Fig. 7.10
show requirement of Textile Engineers of all categories. Required B.Sc.
Engineers will be in break-even position in yr. 2015. But, at present, there is
huge shortage of B.Sc. Engineers (5,957).
Table 7.21a: Projected demand of Textile Technologists from 2007-08 to
2014-15 (year wise)
Categori PhD M.Sc. MBA B.Sc. Dip. Total
60000
es
2007-08 423 1499 394 7991 17416 27,723
2008-09 495 1699 446 9110 20101 31,851
2009-10 564 1937 508 10385 24228 37,623
2010-11 643 2208 580 11839 28355 43,625
2011-12 733 2517 661 13496 32482 49,890
ists
2012-13 836 2870 753 15386 36609 56,454

2013-14 953 3271 859 17540 40736 63,359
2014-15 1087 3729 979 19996 44863 70,654
126
Table 7.21b: Demand Supply Gap of Textile Technologists
Level Existing Required in Gap
2014-15
Ph.D 25 1,087 1062
Masters 65 4,708 4643
B.Sc.Eng 2,034 19,996 17962
Diploma 3,520 44,863 41343
Total: 5644 70654 65010
127
Table 7.21a&b Show a huge demand of Textile Technologists
The Institutions mentioned in the following Table about B.Sc. in textile and
Diploma in textile. Institution-wise passed out numbers during 2005, 2006
and 2007 may be seen from the following Table.
Table -7.22: Statement of Last 3 years Passed out Textile

Technologists
Name of the Institution Passed out Student during the last 3
year
2005 2006 2007
B.Sc Dip. B.Sc. Dip. B.Sc. Dip.
1 Ahsanullah University of 24 57 65 60 88 58
. Science and Technology
2 Institute of Textile Engineering 0 0 0 0 0 0
. & Clothing Technology
3 Gazipur Textile Engineering & 0 0 0 0 0 13
. Technology
. & Technology
5 Dhaka University of 0 0 0 0 0 0
. Engineering & Technology
6 Mawlana Bhashani University of Science 0 0 0 0 0 0
& Tech.
.
. and Information Tech
8 Ideal Institute of Science & 0 0 0 0 0 40
. Technology (IIST)
9 Model Institute of Science & 0 0 0 0 0 0
. Technology
1 Uttara Textile Engineering 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 College
.
1 Institute of Information 0 0 0 0 0 7
1 Technology Bogra
.
1 Haji Abul Hossain Institute of 0 0 0 0 0 9
2 Technology
.
1 Islami Bank Institute of 0 0 0 0 0 0
3 Technology Chittagong
.
1 Pabna Textile Engineering 0 0 0 0 0 0
4 Institute
.
1 Sirajgonj Institute of Textile 0 0 0 0 0 0
5 Engineering & Technology
.
1 Bangladesh Institute of Textile 0 0 0 0 0 0
6 Technology, Tangail
.
1 College of Textile Technology 210 0 214 0 215 0
7
.
1 Textile Institute Tangail 0 51 0 66 0 79
8
.
1 Pabna Textile Engineering 0 57 0 56 0 76
9 College, Pabna
.
2 Textile Engineering College, 0 33 0 35 0 36
0 Begumgonj, Noakhali
.
2 Textile Engineering College 0 29 0 48 0 43
128
Name of the Institution Passed out Student during the last 3
year
2005 2006 2007
B.Sc Dip. B.Sc. Dip. B.Sc. Dip.
Chittagong
2 Textile Institute Dinajpur 0 34 0 57 0 56
2
.
2 Textile Institute Barisal 0 21 0 34 0 70
3
.
2 Green University of 0 0 0 0 0 0
4 Bangladesh
.
2 Prime Asia University 0 0 0 0 30 0
5
.
2 Daffodil International 0 0 0 0 0 0
6 University
.
2 National Polytechnic College 0 0 0 0 0 0
7
.
2 City University 0 0 0 0 0 0
8
.
2 University of South Asia 0 0 0 0 0 0
9
.
3 Southeast University 0 0 0 0 0 0
0
.
Total 234 282 279 356 333 501
Existing Teaching Faculties in Textile Institutions

In these Institutions, there are, in all, 50 Ph.D. & MS holders, 169 B. Sc.
Degree holders and 171 Diploma holders. Institution-wise position may be
seen from the following Table 7.23a&b.
129
Table 7.23: Existing Teaching Faculties (See in
Excel Sheet 3 pages)
85,86,87
130
131
132
Table – 7.24: Number of Textile Technologists in Other
Organizations
In Excel Sheet (1 Page ) 88
133
Approved No. of Admission Seekers and Annual Turn Over Rate in
the Vocational Institutions
The Institutions mentioned in the following Table provide Vocational
Education/certificate to the textile technologists. Their approved annual
capacities are 4,067 and annual turn over number is 2,749. Institution-wise
capacities and turn over may be seen from the following Table.
Table – 7.25: S.S.C./Vocational Institutes and their
Activities/Outcome
Name of the Institution Approved No. of Annual Turnover number
Admission Seekers Rate
B.Sc. Dip Vo Othe B.Sc Dip Voc Other
c. r .
1 Textile Vocatyional Institute, 0 0 180 0 0 0 150 0
Narayangonj
2 Textile Vocational Institute, 0 0 90 0 0 0 70 0
Rangamati
Comilla
Luxmipur
Chittagong
6 Textile Vocational Institute, B- 0 0 90 0 0 0 54 0
Baria
Gazipur
Mymensingh
Madaripur
Munshigonj
Narsingdi
Jamalpur
Pirojpur
Patuakhali
Bagerhat
Khulna
Jhalakati
Jessore
Kushtia
Barguna
Natore
Rajshahi
Pabna
Bogra
Rangpur
134
Dinajpur
Thakurgaon
Gopalgonj
Bandarban
Khagrachari
Keraniganj
Tangail
Kishorgonj
Noakhali
Faridpur
Cox's Bazar
Sirajgonj
Gaibandha
Naogaon
40 TVI Institute, Chapai 0 0 60 0 0 0 30 0
Nawabganj
Total 0 0 406 0 0 0 2749 0
7
135
Passed out Student during Last 3 Years in the Vocational
Institutions
The Institutions mentioned in the following/above Table provide Vocational
Education/SSC Certificate to the textile technologists. The number of passed
out students were 806 (year 2005), 1,140 (year 2006) and 1,162 (year
2007). Institution-wise passed out numbers may be seen from the following
Table.
Table – 7.26: S.S.C./Vocational Institutes and their Activities/Outcome
(Contd.)
Name of the Institution Passed out Student during the last 3 year
2005 2006 2007
B.S Dip. Voc. B.Sc Dip. Voc. B.Sc Dip. Voc.
c . .
Textile Vocational Institute, 0 0 40 0 0 46 0 0 58
1 Narayangonj
2 Rangamati
3 Comilla
4 Luxmipur
5 Chittagong
Textile Vocational Institute, B- 0 0 28 0 0 40 0 0 44
6 Baria
7 Gazipur
8 Mymensingh
9 Madaripur
1 Textile Vocatyional Institute, 0 0 12 0 0 39 0 0 47
0 Munshigonj
1 Narsingdi
1 Textile Vocational Institute, 0 0 41 0 0 24 0 0 42
2 Jamalpur
3 Pirojpur
4 Patuakhali
5 Bagerhat
6 Khulna
7 Jhalakati
8 Jessore
9 Kushtia
0 Barguna
1 Natore
2 Rajshahi
3 Pabna
4 Bogra
5 Rangpur
136
6 Dinajpur
7 Thakurgaon
8 Gopalgonj
9 Bandarban
0 Khagrachari
1 Keraniganj
2 Tangail
3 Kishorgonj
4 Noakhali
5 Faridpur
6 Cox's Bazar
7 Sirajgonj
8 Gaibandha
9 Naogaon
4 TVI Institute, Chapai 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 Nawabganj
Total 0 0 806 0 0 1140 0 0 116
2
Existing Teaching Faculties in Vocational Institutions

In these 40 Institutions, there are, in all, 02 M.Sc., 38 B.Sc. Degree holders
and 63 Diploma holders. Institution-wise position may be seen from the
following Table.
Table – 7.27: Textile Technologists in S.S.C./Vocational Institutes
Existing Manpower with Textile

Education
Name of the Institution
Ph. D. M.Sc. B.Sc. Dip
Textile Vocatyional Institute,

1 Narayangonj 0 0 4 3
2 Rangamati 0 0 1 1
3 Textile Vocational Institute, Comilla 0 1 0 1
4 Textile Vocational Institute, Luxmipur 0 0 0 0
5 Textile Vocational Institute, Chittagong 0 0 1 2
6 Textile Vocational Institute, B-Baria 0 0 1 5
7 Textile Vocational Institute, Gazipur 0 0 2 2
Textile Vocational Institute,
8 Mymensingh 0 0 1 1
9 Textile Vocational Institute, Madaripur 0 0 1 2
10 Munshigonj 0 0 0 2
11 Textile Vocatyional Institute, Narsingdi 0 0 1 2
12 Textile Vocational Institute, Jamalpur 0 0 1 2
13 Textile Vocational Institute, Pirojpur 0 0 0 0
14 Textile Vocational Institute, Patuakhali 0 0 1 2
15 Textile Vocational Institute, Bagerhat 0 0 0 1
137
16 Textile Vocational Institute, Khulna 0 0 1 2
17 Textile Vocational Institute, Jhalakati 0 0 1 1
18 Textile Vocational Institute, Jessore 0 0 2 1
19 Textile Vocatyional Institute, Kushtia 0 0 1 2
20 Textile Vocational Institute, Barguna 0 0 1 0
21 Textile Vocational Institute, Natore 0 0 0 2
22 Textile Vocational Institute, Rajshahi 0 0 1 1
23 Textile Vocational Institute, Pabna 0 0 0 2
24 Textile Vocational Institute, Bogra 0 0 1 2
25 Textile Vocational Institute, Rangpur 0 1 1 3
26 Textile Vocational Institute, Dinajpur 0 0 1 2
27 Thakurgaon 0 0 1 1
28 Textile Vocational Institute, Gopalgonj 0 0 1 1
29 Textile Vocational Institute, Bandarban 0 0 1 1
30 Khagrachari 0 0 1 0
31 Keraniganj 0 0 1 1
32 Textile Vocational Institute, Tangail 0 0 1 1
33 Textile Vocational Institute, Kishorgonj 0 0 1 4
34 Textile Vocational Institute, Noakhali 0 0 1 1
35 Textile Vocational Institute, Faridpur 0 0 1 1
Textile Vocational Institute, Cox's
36 Bazar 0 0 1 1
37 Textile Vocational Institute, Sirajgonj 0 0 1 2
38 Textile Vocational Institute, Gaibandha 0 0 1 2
39 Textile Vocational Institute, Naogaon 0 0 0 1
Textile Vocational Institute, Chapai
40 Nawabganj 0 0 2 2
Total 0 2 38 63
138
Trend of supply of Textile Technologists from
Universities/Institutes:
Fig.7.10 shows the projection of supply of textile technologists, it also shows
the increasing tendency of supply of textile technologists is too high from
2013(exponential).
Fig. 7.10: Demand-Supply of Textile Technologists
50000
45000
Undertaken (a) short, (b) medium and (c) long term plan for supply of Textile
Technologists to meet the demand gap
(a) Short Term
To meet the current demand of textile technologists short term plan (Table 7.28)
should be taken
Categ Curren Source of Supply
40000
ories t
Dema
nd
Ph.D 423 Govt. should arrange scholarship for PhD and BUET/DUET can start PhD
course in textile engineering immediately. Textile University (College of
Textile Engineering & Technology already proposed) should be started
immediately and necessary research instrument and logistic support
should be given from govt. and private Universities who have necessary
facilities should also start the Ph.D courses.
ineers
M.Sc 1499 same as above

MBA 494 Like BIFT (BGMEA Institute of Fashion and Technology), Private
Universities should start MBA course in Textile
B.Sc. 7991 We assume that we have sufficient universities to supply B.Sc, Engineers.
But quality should be maintained by faculties, laboratories, instruments,
machines etc.
35000
Diplo 17416 To meet the demand gap for Diploma Textile Engineers, Annual intake of
ma each Textile Institutes should be 100. Govt. can allow more Private
Diploma Colleges.
139
b) For the supply of textile technologists a medium term plan (Table 7.29) should
be taken
Categori Source of Supply
es
Ph.D Govt. should increase new capacity building of educational infrastructure
with the aim of preparation of Ph.D level textile technologists. Specially,
the present College of Textile Engineering and Technology is to be
modernized and designed as a world level University.
M.Sc same as above
MBA same as above
B.Sc. Govt. should strictly control the private universities for maintaining quality of
technologists by controlling educational infrastructure (faculties, laboratories,
instruments, machines etc.)
Diploma Govt. should build up educational infrastructure with the aim of preparation of
diploma level textile technologists and annual intake of each existing Textile
Institutes should be 200.
c) For the supply of textile technologists a long term plan (Table 7.30) should be taken
Categori Source of Supply
es
Ph.D Besides the capacity building of educational infrastructure a scientific committee
should be formed who will determine the national educational and research
demand
M.Sc same as above
MBA same as above
B.Sc. With respect to the control the private universities for maintained quality of
technologists by controlling educational infrastructure (faculties, laboratories,
instruments, machines etc.)
Diploma Govt. should build up educational infrastructure with the aim of preparation of
diploma level textile technologists and annual intake of each existing Textile
Institutes should be 200.
Conclusion and suggestion for increasing the capacity of

textile institutes
After analyzing the country’s industrial infrastructure, human resources, local

and foreign direct investment, and government policy, we have established
the follows:
(i) In view of the gradual increase in the demand of present context, more
textile engineers are to be deployed in this sector. The production of textile
industries should be increased by increasing our own technologists.
(ii) It is also concluded that the increased supply of technologists would

reduce current dependence of import for yarn & fabrics to half.
(iii) Currently, the textile sector is fully dependent on imported machinery and
chemicals. Increased number of highly qualified technologists would also help to
develop local manufacturing machinery and textile chemical industries.
(iv) Textile Institutions lack well equipped laboratories and faculties. Hardly
any research and development works are being carried out in Bangladesh.
Institutions are having obsolete machines. Instructors are not well conversant with
the latest machinery.
140
(v) Private Universities have already started increasing number of student
intake envisaging rise of demand without making justice to the required quality in
degree level education.
In view of the above conclusion, the following can be put forward:
(i) The govt. should undertake short, medium and long term plan to develop
infrastructure to increase the supply of textile technologist to meet the gap
identified in this study.
(ii) Capacity building of educational infrastructure should aim at the
preparation of Diploma level, Graduate level, Post Graduate and Ph.D level textile
technologists.
(iii) To meet the demand gap for Diploma Textile Engineers, Annual intake of
each Textile Institutes should be 100.
(iv) Textile institutions should be equipped with types of modern machinery
being used in the industries.
(v) Textile teachers should update their knowledge on advanced machinery.
(vi) Universities should not be allowed to increase student entry without
developing faculties and laboratories.
141
Training Needs
Assessment of the
Manpower in the
Textile Sector
Apart from enhancing institutional educational courses in various textile

disciplines, need-based training chains increasing attention. The need-based
training could be categorized into:
• Vocational Training;
• Modular Training;
• Sand-witch Diploma;
• Foundation Training.
The vocational training will mostly concentrate on technical issues covering

operational issues, maintenance issues and issues of floor management.
These training will be, by and large shop floor based (i.e. of on-site) and be
associated with machines and equipment.
The modular training courses will be designed mostly for junior to mid-level
executives, and will cover operational, design planning, QC, productivity,
management and other relevant issues. The courses will be designed on the
basis of the industrial needs. This type of tanning will be of TOT nature, so
that the trainees can disseminate the knowledge and expertise acquired by
them to their places of work.
Sand-witch Diploma program will target mostly the factory people having
first hand experience in dealing with machines, material and human
resources, but are lacking systematic knowledge and skill. This will be the
type of training that will train up those people to be educated and trained up
to certain level so that they can discharge both technical and management
responsibilities.
Foundation courses will be designed for newly recruited employees. This will
provide exposure on industrial odes of working and focuses on how to adapt
self in the industrial environment and effectively keep contribution.
EU_UNIDO sponsored study, conducted by PPMA, show that being

inspired by the spectacular growth of RMG along with its backward linkage
142
PT industries, high ambition has grown in many of them to enter into greater
scope for expansion of business in the global market. But in contrast to this
aspiration, the reality is that the industrial units by and large are highly
deficient in terms of skilled or trained manpower in essential areas of
production functionalities. The study revealed that majority of the surveyed
units (in excess of 60% in many cases), including those of spinning & RMG,
were found weak or not adequately skilled even in such generic issues as
inventory, material management, production calculation & settings of
operational factors
& parameters, process control, preventive maintenance& overhauling, shop
floor observation, testing & quality control, quality assurance, productivity
issues including industrial house keeping, packing & warehousing; not to
speak of computer aided modern product planning and designing,
compliances, reporting systems, product branding, or supply chain, etc.
Overwhelming majority of all the sub-scrotal industrial units is also

characterized by the weakness in a range of non-generic issues related to
production. Even though many of the respondents were non conversant to
those issues, a considerable number of respondents could identify some
areas and issues that include the followings: manufacturing of fashion
products, machatronics in the industry, computer skill for production &
management facilitation, principle and practices of energy conservation in
industry, installation and dismantling of plant-machinery, environmental
issues, labour safeguard provisions, fire fighting & disaster management in
the industry, prevention of occupational diseases and air pollution,
evaluation & monitoring modern HRM, project designing & project
implementation, developing strategic action plan, motivation, handling
problems related to gender issues, enhancement of supply chain, dealing
with bargaining agencies, effective approach for mitigation of workers
justified claims, etc.
Also our study agrees that spacious mismatches, therefore, exist between
the aim and ability of the industries in both Bangladesh PTS & RMG sector,
which in most effective way could be narrowed down by imparting training in
identified areas of weakness (as discussed above).
The study has correctly pointed out that “the country’s textile & RMG
educational institutions impart customized long courses that encompass
multiple disciplines to cover boarder gamut of generalized knowledge. But
the practical problems happen to be of specific natures by arising in different
ways depending on modalities of industrial functions. These problems, apart
from knowledge of education, need specialized skill tips and experience to be
encountered. Above all, the difference between the levels of
weaknesses/inadequacy and performances needs to be identified first to
ascertain the level of intervention by training. As a matter of fact, the
responses obtained from the field survey were the indirect measures of their
143
weakness or learning/skill gaps in the concerned areas of the industry and
those have provided the team of consultants the basis to develop training
products for addressing to these very weakness. These types of training are
contributively to strengthening or improving their exposure and skill in the
respective areas of interest.”
Our team of consultants fully agree that for each category of industries in
different sub-sectors, the training plans should cover the following broad
areas:
• Operation & Production Management
• Maintenance & Electro-Mechanical Issues
• Testing & Quality Control
• Marketing Issues
• Crosscut Issues
We also think it is worthy to conduct training by NITTRAD on the training

product PPMA has recommended.
In order to have the portrait major sub-sectors of the textile industry, 05 case
studies have been made, which include details of the case industries, right
from their inception to profit and loss status, and the like. These case studies
have been placed below.
144
9.1 Case Study of a Spinning Mill:
9.1.1 Introduction
The Matin Spinning Mills Ltd. is situated at Sardagonj, Kashimpur, Gazipur.

On technical point of view (machines, raw materials, production planning,
sequence and operation, maintenance, utility service, store and inventory
control, cost analysis), it is a modern Spinning Mill. However, DBL group has
a strong base of financial aspect and marketing activities, this Mill is still
running with profit.
9.1.2 Brief description of Matin Spinning Mills Ltd:
1. Name of the Mill / Industry : Matin Spinning Mills Ltd.
2. Address Head office : DBL Group of Companies
BGMEA Complex (12th floor), 23/1, Panthopath
Link Road
Kawranbazar, Dhaka-1215
Phone: 8140207-12
Email: rahim@dblgroup.com
3. Factory : Sardagonj, Kashimpur, Gazipur
4. Contact Person : M.A. Rahim (Feroz)
5. Nature of Ownership : Private Limited Co.
6. Year of Establishment : 1991
7. Total Investment : USD 24 Million
8. Land Area : 15 acre
9. Physical Structure : 150000 SFT (factory raw cotton & finished
godown).
10.Type and Nature of the Mill : Spinning
11.Capacity of Machine/Equipment: Spindle: 39,600
12.Main product (yarn) : 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 32/1, 34/1 (Carded
& combed)
13.Annual Production capacity : 9.00 m. kgs
14.Yarn Production : 8.74 m. kgs
145
15.Raw material requirement : Raw Cotton: 30 ton per day
There was no shortage of raw material and product to be delivered in the mill
during the Quarter ended in December 2007.
146
9.1.3 Machine and its Capacity and Capacity Utilization:
This mill has very good quality spinning machinery with different types of
safety devices. For this safety system raw material remains free from metal
and foreign fibre and it has a good impact on quality of production. At the
back process it has Chute feed system equipment. So, the feeding system of
carding machine is automatic. This mill has fully controled A/C plant. So, they
can control humidity of the spinning section as a result it has a good impact
on production and quality of product.
Table-1: List of Machinery with model and country of origin

Sl.N Name of the Origin and No. of Installe Target Capacity
o. Machine Model machine d Production Utilization
Capacit Ton/day Ton/day
y
Ton/day
1 BRM (Uni Flock, Rieter finally 4 40Ton/d 32Ton/day 95-100%
Uni Clean, Uni (Switzerland) line ay
Mix, Uni Flex) machine
ry
2 Carding m/c Rieter C60 18 36Ton/d 29ton 95-100%
(Switzerland) ay
3 Draw Frame SB-D15 Rieter 8 32ton/d 29 ton 95-100%
(Breaker) (Switzerland) ay
4 Draw Frame RSB-D35 Rieter 9 32ton/d 29 ton 95-100%
(Finisher draw (Switzerland) ay
frame)
5 Lap Former E 32 Rieter 3 20 15 ton/day according
(Switzerland) ton/day to order
6 Comber/ 8 E-65 Rieter 14 22 15 ton/day according
head (Switzerland) ton/day to order
7 Simplex FL 100 9 32ton/d 27 ton 95-100%
Toyota Japan ay
8 Ring Frame RX 240 33 27 26 ton 95-100%
Toyota Japan ton/day
9 Winding 21C Muratec, 13 27 25 85-92%
machine Japan ton/day
(Process Coner/
60 dram)
From the above table It is clear that all the machinery are most modern with
latest Technology and for running and maintaining of these machinery,
qualified engineers are always needed. Without them no one can control
process and product. From the history of last year of the organization, it is
running as a standard industry and the mill utilizes 90% of its installed
capacity.
9.1.4 Last Three Years Production (in Ton)
Table-2: production in three years in tons
147
Sl. Product 2005-06 2006-07 2007 (July07-Dec
No. 07)
1 Yarn card 2100 2240 1100
2 Yarn combed 6650 6500 3300
Total: 8750 8740 4400
148
9.1.5 Quality and Process Control
This mill is able to check-up the properties of raw material (cotton) and
properly maintain the bale management system for controlling the quality of
the final product. They maintained the off-line and on-line quality control.
The quality control equipment are covering the all area of spinning mill. The
mill has recruit qualified engineers for maintaining high standard quality
product.
Table 3: List of quality control equipments.

Sl. Name of Equipment Manufacturer Model No.
No.
1 AFIS Switzerland AFISPRO
2 HVI Switzerland HVI Spectrum
3 Raw Cotton impurity China YGO41
analyzer
4 USTER Tester 5 Switzerland
5 Electric skein strength China YGO28T
tester
6 Electro yarn reel England
7 Electronic twist tester Germany
8 Yarn tension meter England DTMB-500
9 Aduent laser tachometer England A2103/LSR/003
10 Electronic wt balance England KERN TB
11 Moister meter England
12 Sliver roving reel England
The product quality of this mill has approximately 25% level of Uster
Statistics.
9.1.6 Manpower as on 31st December 2007
Table-4: Manpower at different level.

Level of Skill Education Require Existing Shortfall
ness ment
Managerial Level B.Sc/ M.Sc./ MBA 1 0 1
High Skill/Expertise B.Sc in Textile 10 8 2
Level Engineering
Moderate Skill Diploma in Textile 20 15 5
Level Engineering
Specialized Skill Trade Course 15 5 10
Level
Skilled Labour Skilled by Experience 300 200 100
Semi-Skilled Skill ness developing 250 375 +125
Labour by work
Unskilled Labour Trainee/Learner 250 350 +100
149
9.1.7 Assessment of manpower of 25000 Spindles & 1200 Rotors Capacity (in Ideal case)
Organogram of Required Textile Technologists in Spinning Mills

Assessment has done on the basis of 25000 Spindles & 1200 Rotors Capacity
Director Operation (Ph.D/M.Sc./MBA):

1
DGM Commercial H/O (B.Sc.): GM/DGM Plant GM/DGM Planning, R & D,

1 (B.Sc.):1 Central MIS (Ph.D/M.Sc):1
Purchasin Sales Marketing

g (Dip.):3 (Dip.):1 (B.Sc./Dip):
3
Manager Maint. (B.Sc.): Manager Q.C. Manager Prod. (B.Sc.): 1 Manager Utility (B.Sc.): Manager
1 (B.Sc.):1 1 MIS(B.Sc.): 1
Sr. P.O/P.O. (B.Sc./Dip): 4 Shift in Charge B.Sc:1 Shift in Charge B.Sc:1 Shift in Charge B.Sc:1
. .
AP.O. (Dip.): 4 PO/AP.O.(Dip.): PO/AP.O.(Dip.): PO/AP.O.(Dip.): 5

. 6 5 Back process: 1
Back process: 1 Back process: 1 Ring & Rotor: 3
Ring & Rotor: 3 Ring & Rotor: 3 Finishing: 1
Finishing: 1 Finishing: 1
B.Sc/M.Sc/ MBA = 2, B.Sc = 10 and Diploma = 19
N.B: There must be added 15% manpower along with this assessment for the reliever duty
150
9.1.8 Conclusion
It is a good grade mill. It has very good quality Machinery and also a good
number of Textile Engineer. As a result it is possible to produce quality
product at the range of ISO standard. The productivity of the mill is also very
satisfactory.
151
9.2 Case Study of a Weaving Mill:
9.2.1 Introduction: The case study of SIM Fabrics Ltd. is situated at Bhulta,
Rupgonj, Narayanganj. This mill is an average graded one in respect of
technical points of view, such as, machinery, raw material used, quality of the
product, production planning and control, maintenance, utility service, store
and inventory control. A strong base of financial aspect and marketing
activities exist there. The mill is an 100% export oriented one and running up
to now with profit.
9.2.2 A brief description of SIM Fabrics Ltd.:
1. Name of the Mill : SIM Fabrics Ltd.

2. Nature of the Ownership : Private Limited Company
3. Address of the Head Office : Ridge Dale (3rd floor), Cha-75/2
Progoti Sharoni, Badda, Dhaka-1212
3. Year of Establishment :
4. Authorized Capital : Tk: 30,000,000.00
5. Paid-up Capital : Tk: 1,750,000
6. Land Area :
7. Physical Structure :
8. Type or Nature of Mill : Weaving Mill
9. Contact Person : Mr. Md. Mozaffar Hossain
10. Installed Capacity : 125 set
11. Main product : Gray Fabrics
12. Annual Production Capacity : 90 Lac
yds
9.2.3 Machine and Equipments, Capacity and Capacity Utilization:
Sl Name of Origin and No. of Installe Target Actual Capacity

No. the Year of Machi d Producti Producti Utilizatio
Machine Purchase ne Capacit on on n
y Yds/Day Yds/Day
Yds/Da
y
1 Warping 2 30000 28800 14400 50
2 Seizing 1 25000 20000 12000 60
3 Loom Picanal 40 7580 6068
(PGW) 5098 84
4 Loom Ruti 34 6443 5150 4326 84
5 Loom Picanal 20 4000 3034
(GTM) 2548 84
9.2.4. Last Three Years Production (in Lac yds)
152
No. 07)
1 Cotton Woven 25 32 18
Fabric
2 Total 25 32 18
153
9.2.5 Reason of Production Shortfall during July 2007-December 2007
Sl. Reason of Production Shortfall (Yes/No)

No.
1 Electricity Failure Yes
2 Shortage of Raw Material No
3 Shortage of Working Capital Sometimes
4 Lack of Proper Planning as per export
order
5 Misleading Lead Time/Procurement Time No
6 Lack f Spare and Accessories Depend upon
import item
7 Strike/Unrest No
8 Natural Disaster No
9 Shortage of Skilled Manpower Sometimes
9.2.6 Manpower as on 31st December 2007:
Level of Skill Education Require Existi Shortf Shortag

ness ment ng all e (%)
Managerial Level B. Sc/M.Sc./MBA 1 1 - -
in Textile Engg.
High B. Sc in Textile 3 1 2 66.6
Skill/Expertise Engineering
Level
Moderate Skill Diploma in 6 2 4 66.6
Level Textile
Engineering
Skilled Labour Skilled by 125 106 19 15
Experience
Semi-Skilled Skill ness 80 80 - -
Labour developing by
Work
Unskilled Labour Trainee/Learner 90 80 10 11
9.2.7 Product Quality
This mill produces different type of fabric (Plain, Twill, Satin and different
Dobby design) with average quality. It has approximately 1.5-2% wastage, but
they achieve hardly 84% of their target.
9.2.8 Conclusion
From the above table it is clear that the shortfall of production is caused
mainly for shortage of skilled manpower. It is assumed that a 14% production
shortfall occurs due to shortage of Textile Technologists.
154
9.3 Case Study of a Knit Dyeing Mill
9.3.1 Introduction
Jinnat Apparels Ltd is situated at Sreepur, Gazipur. In respect of technical

point of views (machines, raw materials, production planning, sequence and
operation, maintenance, utility service, store and inventory control, cost
analysis), it is a very good graded Knit Dyeing Mill and it has a strong base of
financial aspect and marketing activities. This Mill is 100% export oriented and
running up to now with profit.
9.3.2 A brief description of Jinnat Apparels Ltd
1. Name of the Mill / Industry : Jinnat Apparels Ltd

2. Nature of Ownership : Private Limited Co.
4. Authorized Capital : Tk.806129460; Paid-up Capital
Tk .90000000
5. Land Area : 4.75 Bighas; Purchased
6. Physical Structure : Pucca.
7. Type and Nature of the Mill : Knit Dyeing Mills
8. Capacity of Machine/Equipment : See separate sheets
9. Stock Position and Volume of Shortfall (July 2007- Dec.07):
Table 1: Stock Position during Quarter ended in December 2007

Types of Stock Stock (Kg) Value of Stock
(Tk)
Dyes & Chemicals 110000 33000000
Others 15000 3000000
There was no shortage of raw material and product to be delivered in the

mill during July 2007- Dec.07
10. Last three year’s production (in Kg):
Table 2: Production history of last 2 years
2007 (July 07-

Sl. No. Products 2005-06 2006-07 Dec.07
Cotton
1 knitted fabric 2911424 3919089 1969049
Total 2911424 3919089 1969049
It is clear from the history of last year’s XKDML that the organization is
running as a standard industry does. There is, always around 10 percent
production shortfall compared to installed capacity.
155
156
11. Production and shortfall during July 2007- Dec.07:
Table 3: Production and shortfall

M/C No of Avg. Capacity Total Target Prod. Achieve Shortfall Shortfall
M/C per day per Capacity (Kg) d (Kg) (%)
M/C (Kg) at 100% Prod.
(Kg)
Dyeing 12 1275 15300 14000 13127 873 6.2
Finishing 2 12000 24000 21600 13127 8473 39.2
The loss of production is around 6.2% (from table 3). This is the only reason of
skilled manpower shortage.
12. Cost of goods sold:
P ro fit
10 %
Other expen ses
3%
Ra w materials
Fina ncial 35%
11%
Ad min and Saling

6%
W ate r, power & fuel

8%
Salary & wag es
9%
S tore & spa re s
Depreciatio n 0%
14 %
Repairs & Mainten ance
4%
Figure 1: Parameters of Cost Calculation of goods sold
According to the parameters given in figure 1, the sale price was calculated.
Calculation of Sale price during July 2007- Dec.07:
Table 4: Cost of production and sale price of goods
Products Cost of Prod. Sale Price Total Profit

(Tk/Kg) (Tk/Kg) Revenue (Tk)
(Tk)
Dyed 65.5 74.6 14,68,91 1,79,18346
fabric 055
157
158
13. Reasons of production shortfall during July 2007- Dec.07:
Table 5 : Causes of Shortfall of Production during July 2007- Dec.07
Sl. Reasons of Shortfall Shortfall during the

No. Quarter
01 Electricity failure X
02 Shortage of raw materials X
03 Shortage of working capital X
04 Lack of proper planning X
05 Undesirable influence by top none technical X
management
06 Lack of spare parts and accessories X
07 Strike / unrest X
08 Natural disaster X
09 Shortage of Skilled Manpower √
From table 5, it is clear that there is only one category of production shortfall;
this is the shortage of skilled manpower. It is assumed that 6.2% of production
shortfall occurs due to shortage of textile technologists.
14. Number of Shifts, Working Hours and Days during July 2007-
Dec.07:
Table 6: Working hrs (effective power supply hrs)

No. of Total No. of Shifts Total No. of Days Total No. of Working
Shifts per during July 2007- Worked during the Hours during the
Day Dec.07 Quarter Quarter
3 255 150 3600
15. Raw Materials / Inputs Used during July 2007- Dec.07:

Total: 984524.5 Kg
16. Investment:
Table 8: Investment at different levels

Fixed Assets in Tk. Working Capital in Tk.
Present Depreciated In Cost Price as on 31st
Original Value
Value December 2007
80.61 Crores 71.61 crores 5 crores
159
17. Manpower as on 31st December 2007:
Table 9: Manpower Assessment at different levels
From Table 9, we can assessed the section wise skilled

manpower by fig. 2A
120%
Figure 2: Requirement of textile engineers and technologists at

different level
100%
ists (%)
160
18. Assessment of manpower of 15.3 Tones Capacity (Ideal Case)
An Organogram of Required Textile Technologists in Knit-Dyeing
GM (PhD/M.Sc./MBA): 1
DGM Commercial H/O (B.Sc.): DGM Plant (B.Sc.):1 Manager Planning, R & D,
1 Central MIS (M.Sc/B.Sc.):1

1
Manager Prod. & Q.C. (B.Sc.): Manager Maintenance & Utility

1 (B.Sc.): 1
A. Shift AM/SPO B. Shift AM/SPO C. Shift AM/SPO Maintenance In Charge of

B.Sc:1 B.Sc:1 B.Sc:1 in Charge Utility (Dip.):1
(Dip.): 1
PO/AP.O.(Dip.): 2 PO/AP.O.(Dip.): 2 PO/AP.O.(Dip.): 2
Back process & Back process& Back process&
Lab: 1 Lab: 1 Lab: 1
PhD/M.Sc/ MBA = 1, B.Sc = 8 and Diploma = 11

N.B: There must be added 15% manpower along with this assessment for the reliever duty
161
19. Product Diversification Matching with the Need of RMG Sector
and Quality Improvement:
Existing Supply/Yr of Scope for Additional Scope for Quality

Products to RMG Production and Supply to Improvement of the
Sector RMG Sector Products
Yes /
Products Quantity Yes / No How? How?
No
By
Knit
Dyed 4 Million By increasing increasing
dyei Yes Yes
fabric Kg skill manpower skill
ng
manpower
9.3.3 Conclusion:
From the above study, it is clear that the reason of shortfall and quality of
production is the shortage of textile technologists. We have seen that there
is 13% shortage of textile technologists at different levels. It is possible to
get 100% targeted production and quality by deployment of skilled textile
Engineers. So, it is very essential to recruit textile technologists of different
levels in all the textile mills in the shortest time.
162
9.4 Case Study of a Knitting Mill
9.4.1 Introduction:
The case study of Mymun Textile Mill Ltd. is located at Sreepur, Gazipur. It is
a high-graded Knitting Mill with the strong base of financial aspect and
marketing activities. From the technical point of views (machines, raw
materials, production planning, sequence and operation, maintenance, utility
service, store and inventory control, cost analysis), this Mill is 100% export
oriented and it is running till now with profit.
9.4.2 A brief description of Mymun Textile Mill Ltd.
1. Name of the Mill : Mymun Textile Mill Ltd.

4. Authorized Capital : Tk: 25.07 Crores
5. Paid-up Capital : Tk: 2 Crores
6. Land Area : 5 Bighas
7. Physical Structure : Pucca + Pre-Fabricated
8. Type or Nature of Mill : Knitting
9. Machine and Equipments, Capacity and Capacity Utilization:
Capacit
Sl Name of Origin and No. of Installed Target
y
No the Year of Machin Capacity Production
Utilizati
. Machine Purchase e Kg/Day Kg/Day
on (%)
1 Circular Mayer & 45 15750 14175 90
Knitting Cie
Germany,
2004
Total 45 15750 14175 90
10. Stock Position and Volume of Shortfall (July 2007-December

2007)
Types of Stock Stock (Kg) Value of Stock

(Tk)
Yarn 44500 5340000
Fabrics 10550 1751300
Total 55050 7091300
There was no shortage of raw material in the mill during July 2007 to
December 2007.
11. Last Three Years Production (in Kg)

No. 07)
163
1 Cotton Fabric 2358665 Kg 4531746 Kg 2444912 Kg
2 Total 2358665 Kg 4531746 Kg 2444912 Kg
Production history of last two years shows that the Mill is running well.
164
12. Production and Shortfall During July 2007-December 2007
Capacity/fra Target Achieved

Shortf
Machine Nos Product me Production Prod
all
/hr (Kg) Kg/hr Kg/hr
Circular Cotton
45 15 13.2 12.94 2%
Knitting Fabric
There was a negligible amount of production shortfall due to the deployment

of skilled textile technologists.
13. Calculation of Sale Price During July 2007-December 2007
Total
Cost of Profit
Products Sale Price Revenue
Production (Tk)
(Tk)
Knitted 166.5 40,70,778
146.5 Tk/Kg 48898240
Fabric Tk/Kg 48
14. Reason of Production Shortfall During July 2007-December 2007

Sl. Reason of Production Shortfall During The
No. Quarter
1 Electricity Failure X
2 Shortage of Raw Material X
3 Shortage of Working Capital X
4 Lack of Proper Planning X
5 Misleading Lead Time/Procurement X
Time
6 Lack f Spare and Accessories X
7 Strike/Unrest X
8 Natural Disaster X
From the above table it is clear that the shortfall of production is only for
shortage of skilled manpower. It is assumed that the negligible amount of
(only 2%) production shortfall due to the presence of Textile Technologists.
15. Cost of Good Sold
Water, power & Other expenses Profit

fuel 2% 14%
1%
Financial Expenses
4%
Admin
1%
Depreciation
6%
Salary & wages

4%
Raw materials
68%
165
Figure 1: Parameters of Cost Calculation of goods sold
16. Number of Shifts, Working Hours and Days During July 2007-
December 2007
Total No. of Total No. of

Total No. of Shifts
No. of Days During Working Hours
During July 2007-
Shifts/Day July 2007- During the
December 2007
December 2007 Quarter
3 350 175 4200
17. Raw Material/Input Used During July 2007-December 2007

469361 Kg
18. Wastages in terms of % (2007)
Yarn Fabric Total

0.5% 0.5% 1%
19. Investment:
Fixed Assets in Tk Working Capital in Tk
Original Present Depreciated In Cost Price as on 31st
Value Value December 2007
25.07 Crores 23.07 Crores 5 Crores
20. Wages and Salaries (Tk) as in December 2007
Period Officers and Staffs Labour

December 7,50,000.00 10,50,000.00
2007

Level of Skill Education Requireme Existi Shortfa Shortage
ness nt ng ll (%)
Managerial PhD/M.Sc./MB 1 1 0 0
Level A
in Textile
Engg.
High B. Sc in 5 5 0 0
Skill/Expertise Textile
Level Engineering
Moderate Skill Diploma in 11 10 1 9%
Level Textile
Engineering
Specialized Trade Course 16 15 1 6%
Skill Level
Skilled Skilled by 390 410 2 (+5)%
/Unskilled Experience
Labour
166
From the above table we have a clear idea about the present condition of
overall situation of different mills and we can simulate this case in
real/practical fields for engineers and technicians in the following ways:
1) Salary of engineers/technologists is a minor amount compare to the out-
put (Production & Quality)
2) The higher the deployment of engineers/technologists, the higher is the
total out-put
12.00
echnologists
Different Level.
10.00
Figure2: Requirement of Textile Engineers and Technologists at

and Quality Improvement
Sub- Existing Supply/Yr Scope of Scope for

Sector of Products to RMG Additional Improvement of
Sector Production and the Product
Supply to RMG
Sector
Product Quantity Yes/N How? Yes/No How?
s o
Knitting Fabric 7619577 Yes By Yes By
Kg Increasing Increasin
8.00
Skilled g Skilled
Manpower Manpowe
r
9.4.3 Conclusion:
167
In conclusion, we can say that the only cause of the shortfall of production is
the shortage of Textile Technologists/Engineers. There is only a little 6%
shortage of Textile Technologists/Engineers at different levels. It is possible
to achieve 100% target production and also quality by recruiting Textile
Technologists/Engineers. So it is essential to appoint Textile
Technologists/Engineers at different levels in all the textile mills
168
9.5 Case Study of a Home Textile
9.5.1 Introduction: This is a case study ARKAY Textile Mill Ltd. This Mill is
situated at Zeerani, Kashimpur Gazipur. It is a moderate graded mill and has
a strong base of financial aspect and marketing activities. It is a 100%
export-oriented mill and running up to now with profit.
9.5.2 A brief description of ARKAY Textile Mill Ltd.
1. Name of the Mill : ARKAY Textile Mill Ltd.
4. Authorized Capital : Tk: 60Crores
5. Paid-up Capital : Tk: 30 Crores
6. Land Area : 12 Hectors
7. Physical Structure : Pre-Fabricated
8. Type or Nature of Mill : Home Textile (Weaving and
Dyeing Mill)
9. Machine and Equipments, Capacity and Capacity Utilization:
Sl Name of the Origin and Year No. of RPM/ Installe Target

No. Machine of Purchase M/Cs m/mi d Productio
n Capacit n
y Yds/Day
Yds/Da
y
1 Sizing M/c West Point, 1 60 76000 38000
USA 1989
3 Rapier Loom Chaina, 1989 23 200 2576 2318
4 Shuttle Pakistan, 1989 72 150 6048 5443
Loom
5 Sulzer Loom Sulzer Rueti, 57 350 8051 7182
(Projectile) Switzerland
1989
10. Stock Position and Volume of Shortfall (July 2007-December

2007)
Types of Stock Type Stock (MT) Value of Stock

(Tk)
Yarn 7/116/1, 20/1, 343 41160000
24/1, 20/2, 16/2,
20/1(PC)
Chemicals 45 1,35,000
00
There was no shortage of raw material in the mill during January 2007 to
December 2007.
11. Last Three Years’ Production (in Kg)
Sl. No. Product 2005-06 2006-07 2007 -08

1 Plain Sheets 20,70,661 yds 2106721 yds 2073973 yds
2 Terry Towels 5584690 yds 5417141 yds 7542178 yds
3 Tea Towels 780736 yds 865121 yds 839167 yds
12. Production and Shortfall during July 2007
169
Sl Name of the No. of Machine Installed Achieved Capacity
No. Machine Capacity Productio Utilization
Yds/Day n Yds/Day Yds/Day
1 Sizing M/c West Point, USA 25200000 9344770 37%
1989
3 Rapier Loom Chaina, 1989 1624563 828341 51%
4 Shuttle Loom Pakistan, 1989 8880862 5583336 63%
5 Sulzer Loom Sulzer Rueti, 2712565 2083569 69%
(Projectile) Switzerland
1989
170
13. Calculation of Sale Price during July 2007-December 2007
Products Cost of Sale Price Total Profit

Production Revenue (Tk)
(Tk)
Plain Sheets 61.6 Tk/Yd 72.2 Tk/Yd 152105256.2 22331243
Terry Towels 53.2 Tk/Yd 58.5 Tk/Yd 316902748.5 28710847
Tea Towels 65 Tk/Yd 72.5Tk/Yd 62721272.5 6488408
14. Reason of Production Shortfall during July 2007-December

2007
Sl. Reason of Production Shortfall During The
No. Quarter
1 Electricity Failure X
2 Shortage of Raw Material X
3 Shortage of Working Capital X
4 Lack of Proper Planning X
5 Misleading Lead Time/Procurement X
Time
6 Lack f Spare and Accessories X
7 Strike/Unrest X
8 Natural Disaster X
From the above table, it is clear that the shortfall of production is caused
only by the shortage of skilled manpower. It is assumed that a huge, 50%
production shortfall occurs due to the shortage of Textile Technologists.
15. Cost of Goods Sold
Figuare1: Parameters of Cost Calculation of goods sold
171
16. Number of Shifts, Working Hours and Days during July 2007-
December 2007
No. of Shifts/Day Total No. of Shifts Total No. of Days Total No. of
During July 2007- During Jan. 2007- Working
December 2007 December 2007 Hours During
the Quarter
3 1050 350 8400
17. Raw Material/Input Used During July 2007-December 2007
Yarn Chemicals
1006678 Kg 97,000 Kg
18. Wastages in terms of percentage (%) During the Year 2007:
Yarn Fabric Chemicals

1% 2.5% 1%
19. Investment:
Fixed Assets in Tk Working Capital in Tk

Original Value Present Depreciated In Cost Price as on 31st
Value December 2007
60 Crores 30 Crores 7 Crores
20. Wages and Salaries (Tk) as in December 2007
Period Officers and Staffs Labour

Jan.- December 11,50,000.00 26,50,000.00
2007
Level of Education Requi Existin Shortfa Shortage

Skill ness reme g ll (%)
nt
Managerial PhD/M.Sc./MBA 1 0 1 100%
Level in Textile Engg.
High B. Sc in Textile 6 0 6 100%
Skill/Exper Engineering
tise Level
Moderate Diploma in Textile 20 5 15 75%
Skill Level Engineering
Specialize Trade Course 25 6 19 76%
d Skill
Level
Semi- Skill ness 405 405 0 0%
Skilled developing by Work
Labour
Unskilled Trainee/Learner 491 491 0 0%
Labour
172
120%
Figure2: Requirement of Textile Engineers and Technologists at
100%
Different Level.
From fig.2, it is clear that there are not good technical persons in this
company.

and Quality Improvement
Sub- Existing Scope of Additional Scope for

Sector Supply/Yr of Production and Improvement of
Products to RMG Supply to RMG the Product
Sector Sector
Product Quantit Yes/N How? Yes/N How?
s y o o
Weaving Fabric 531729 Yes By Yes By
277.2 Increasing Increasing
Engineers
Yds Skilled Skilled

Manpower Manpower
80%
173
9.5.3 Manpower Assessment of a Woven Dyeing
Organogram of Required Textile Technologists in Woven-Dyeing

Assessment has done on the basis of 100000 Meters Capacity/day
GM (M.Sc./MBA): 1
DGM Commercial H/O (B.Sc.): DGM Plant (B.Sc.):1 Manager Planning, R & D,
1 Central MIS (M.Sc/B.Sc.):1

1
Manager Prod. & Q.C. (B.Sc.): Manager Maintenance & Utility

1 (B.Sc.): 1
A.Shift SPO/AM B.Shift SPO/AM C.Shift SPO/AM Maintenance In Charge of

B.Sc:1 B.Sc:1 B.Sc:1 in Charge Utility (Dip.): 1
(Dip.): 1
PO/AP.O.(Dip.): 2 PO/AP.O.(Dip.): 2 PO/AP.O.(Dip.): 2
Back process & Back process & Back process &
Lab: 1 Lab: 1 Lab: 1
PhD/M/Sc./MBA=2, B.Sc=8,
Diploma=10
174
9.5.4 Conclusion
From the above study, it is clear that the reason of the shortfall of the
production is due to the shortage of Textile Technologists/Engineers and
working capital. We have seen that there is about 35-100% shortage of
Textile Technologists/Engineers at different levels. It is possible to achieve
100% target production as well as quality by recruiting Textile
Technologists/Engineers here.
We have analyzed the overall situation of this Home Textile Industry and
found the worst Operational Condition everywhere due to the shortage of
specialized textile persons.
175
10.1 Establishment of a Computerized Data Bank/Database at
DOT
Objective:
According to the TOR, the task is to update database and enrich portal of DOT
to facilitate RMG, textile sector and related business houses with information
and prepare MIS reports for Ministry of Textiles for FY 2007. It also includes
identification of inadequacy of software, hardware of the existing computer
system of DOT and to submit a proposal to meet the demands in a
competitive environment in the globalize world
Scope of Work:
To develop a functional database incorporating findings of the ongoing

survey work including requirement of textile technologists at different
levels and serve as a databank for textile sector.
To enrich existing web portal of DOT
To suggest hardware and manpower to strengthen MIS of DOT to increase
its efficiency.
Task Accomplishment:
119
Database system has been designed, implemented and tested and ready to
be delivered and installed It is used for survey data entry and data editing by
the consulting firm. The database is also used for various report generation for
analysis. All reports can be uploaded to DOT Web portal.
A report on manpower and hardware requirement for strengthening DOT MIS

that was submitted earlier is also included in the following section.
Data Bank:
Information of 7,543 industrial units is entered in database in 17 sub-sectors.
With time this database will grow larger and larger demanding better
management of data and efficient operations for report/statistics generation.
120
What is a database?:
A database is an organized collection of data. A database management

system (DBMS) such as Access, Oracle or SQL Server provides software tools
to facilitate addition, modification or deletion of data from the database,
analyze data and produce reports of interest.
Data Information Knowledge Action
Relational database:
Relational database is perceived by user as a collection of tables representing

relations among data . Different tables are linked through keys (foreign keys)
The tables correspond to entities that are modeled through their attributes
represented by fields. Any single record can be uniquely identified by primary
key
(Industrial unit code)
Advantages:
Structural independence
Improved conceptual simplicity
Easier database design, implementation, management, and use
Ad hoc query capability with SQL
Powerful database management system
Characteristics of “Internet age” web databases:

Flexible, efficient, and secure Internet access.
Easily used being located geographically apart.
Supports complex data types and relationships.
Seamless interfaces with multiple data sources and structures.
Simplicity of conceptual database model .
Many database design, implementation, and application development tools.
DBMS can be divided into two categories:

Standalone databases - oriented toward single-user applications and reside on
standard personal computers (hence the term desktop).
Server databases contain mechanisms to ensure the reliability and
consistency of data and are geared toward multi-user applications.
Adopted System Design Methodology: Software Development Life Cycle

(Systems Analysis and Design):
121
The steps in system analysis are as follows:
Feasibility Analysis
Need Analysis
System Design
Implementation
Installation
Training
Maintenance
Feasibility Analysis:
DOT has rightly decided to undertake such a survey as now evident with the
global recession and economic crisis. The fact is that many orders are now
being withdrawn. Again opportunities are on the table to have some jobs
provided we have skill in those specific areas. This justifies such a survey of
the status of manpower in textile sector that can help us strengthen ourselves
through necessary training in areas of demand.
Need analysis was carried out through sending survey questionnaire to key
people, Walkthroughs and interviewing key personnel and through workshops
Survey questionnaire:
This survey covers 15 sub-sectors of textile such as spinning, large weaving,

knitting, dyeing and printing , garments, silk, textile Institutes etc and 15 sets
of questionnaires were designed that include all relevant information. We
trained surveyors with requisite qualification and they collected data as per
format .Inconsistent data were later validated
Preliminary System Analysis/Design:

This task involves extraction of logical entities and attributes (data fields) from
survey forms and defined in a data dictionary (enclosed in annexure volume).
Logical entities are for example:

Industrial unit general information
Capacity
Actual Production
Textile Professionals information (diploma, degree, postgraduate)
Manpower and more
122
We have identified about 20 logical entities.
Detailed design (database and software Design):
We have designed database structure as per preliminary analysis from

database schema/tables for actual implementation which also includes
designing software (application) modules of the whole system. Software
architecture is designed that defines structural relationship of modules.
Graphical User Interface (GUI) in the form of Web interfaces is designed with
validation
Implementation & Testing:
Database has been implemented in Oracle 10g DBMS. Tables are created from
schema. There are 20 tables (files) comprising all data and several views.
Various constraints, access control and security features are embedded in the
database. We have carried out the following works:
Applications (modules) are coded

Modules are integrated
Application platform: Server based applications and client side has web
interface
Can be deployed in Internet for access to all stakeholders
123
Training:
The philosophy of objective of training is transmission of needed skill to users

so that they can comfortably run and maintain the system effectively. Training
program should be designed in such a manner so that it is consistent with the
trainers background Trainees. Relevant industry people and government
officers can be offered an appreciation course. We have submitted a training
program to DOT.
Maintenance:
Maintenance cost is usually considered about 60% of the budget of
computerized system. Software testing can never ensure absence of bugs and
errors. Maintenance extends through the life of the software by adapting to
changing needs of the users. It is more worthwhile to maintain the system
than developing a new one. Both preventive and developmental maintenance
should be adequately deal. To attain global standard, software maintenance
should not be neglected as we are used to do in our country.
Scope of Textile database system:

Survey data of each of the industrial units of textile sub-sectors comprising
capacity, production, imports, investments, manpower, existing textile
technologists information and requirements of textile technologists are being
stored in the database.
Scope of DOT Data base:

The database can be updated
It can serve as data bank for textile sector
Various reports can be generated for decision making
Accessible to stakeholders via Internet
Database system deployment:

Multi-user and Web oriented
Such system will allow authorized users to access/update information through
Internet
Information can be published through existing DOT website
Or, DOT can build their own web site with web server at their premise.
Database system architecture:
Client server three-lier architecture
Multiple users can access server based database simultaneously .Back end:
Database and applications (software) are in back end. Front end is Web
interface
Application architectures
124
Updating of Database:
Front end is web based so that updating is possible on line. As such industries
can also download survey forms and submit on line. A comprehensive plan to
involve industry to send updated information has to be engineered so that
DOT can be proactive to develop strategy and implement projects to provide
necessary infrastructure for textile education
Database Management System for the project:
Database management system (DBMS) is industry standard Oracle 10g.

Oracle’s strength is security, access control, optimized query plan for speed
and back up facilities. Software are applications in PHP scripts to query the
database for data entry, updating, and report generation
Capability of database for sector-wise MIS reports:
All sorts of MIS reports and industry information can be produced from the
database. The data in this draft report is produced from the database.
Installed Capacity & capacity utilization report

Actual production report
Raw materials import
Domestic production of textile fabrics
Professionals with textile background– diploma, graduate, and post
graduate
Required professionals
Status of the industries – running/closed
Expansion program – yes/no
.Non-professional staff/Workers – skilled/unskilled, male/female.
Capacity information of the Textile academic Institution – universities,
colleges, institutes TVIs (Public and private sector)
Academic program (diploma/degree)

Existing faculty
Available seats
Year wise passed out students
125
Required faculty
Strengthening of MIS Section of DOT:
Present Status:
At present, a Deputy Director of DOT is in charge of IT and MIS section and a
computer operator is there. Existing hardware includes 3 desktop computers,
one server, one scanner, one hub-switch and MLSS for networking and access
to Internet. We think that computer experts like qualified system analysts and
programmers are required to strengthen MIS section in view of the new
database system (databank of textile sector) that we will handover to DOT.
Proposal for Strengthening of MIS of DOT:
We recommend creating posts for system analysts and programmers to

strengthen MIS section of DOT that can address the present day demand. DOT
should be able to produce various MIS reports. We also suggest that DOT
should involve industry so that industries update their data and stakeholders
can obtain updated information. We also propose to upgrade the present
hardware so that DOT to meet the demand of computation, generation of
reports and analysis.
Our completed proposal is given in next section.
Tasks ahead:
Installation of the database system at DOT premise.

Provide needed training
(A week-long training program is submitted to DOT. We will support

maintenance of the database in short term but DOT should adopt a
maintenance plan for long term)
126
Conclusion
The database system can serve the objective of the project. We expect that
DOT can use it effectively. A maintenance plan of the system has to be
envisaged in long term to eliminate the need of building a new system. A
mechanism should be developed to inspire industries to update the database
and be proactive to access demand-gap of technologists and make short term
and long term planning for strengthening of textile educational infrastructure
so that our country remains globally competitive.
Considering the inadequacy of manpower and hardware of DOT we

recommend strengthening of DOT as per our submitted proposal. We import
almost all machinery in textile sector but there is scope of local production of
spare parts and not-so-complicated machines. There is a need to survey
current local textile machinery production and textile curriculum should
emphasize such aspects as textile machine design and electrical and
computerized system design. Further regular workshops and seminars should
be arranged for textile sector development
10.2 Strengthening Electronic Website / Portal of DOT for MIS & Data
Access to Stakeholders
Besides we have developed a web portal which presents information in a

unified way. The web portal is user-specific, and provides customized views
from the point of stakeholders in textile sector. The portals provide a way for
organizations to provide a consistent look and feel with access control and
procedures for multiple applications. In addition, most portal solutions today
can allow internal and external access to specific public information using
secure authentication or single sign-on. The textile web portal has links to
data bank of about 7,543 industrial units in 17 sub-sectors, MIS reports,
detailed information of institutes, colleges and universities offering textile
education – certificate, diploma and baccalaureate degrees in both public and
private sector- along with all the usual features of a web portal.
The main features of the web portal are outlined below.
1. It is on line and information of the web portal can easily be updated any
time
2. Stakeholders can access relevant information
3. Comprehensive to cover 17 sub-sectors of textile
4. Information of a textile industrial unit can be accessed instantly from
Internet
127
5. Information comprises installed capacity and actual production,
investments, import of raw materials, manpower, professional information,
required professionals, problems and status of operation.
6. User access control is also established
The web portal is built so that it can provide valuable information for policy
making and decision making process in textile sector. Al sorts of stakeholders
related to textile sector can be directly benefited from this portal.
The web portal has home page and links to various pages for relevant
information for stakeholders. A link to “Textile Survey 2008” is made that
contains information of the back ground of the project and description of
major activities that lead to accomplishment of survey work. We have
provided a list of the distinguished consultants and faculty members of
universities who contributed to this project. The survey work comprises 17
sub-sectors of textile sector and sample survey forms and instruments can be
found in this link.
In the home page there is a link to “Reports” particularly targeted for

stakeholders giving a quick access to present scenario of 16 sub-sectors of
textile sector. This link contains various links to different MIS reports and
summarized data as well as detailed reports. Different types of reports are
presented in different pages.
This draft report of the survey work is based on the information of the data
bank. There is also a link to the draft report of the survey work so that
stakeholders can make comments on the report as well. We provide print-outs
of the web pages of the portal.
The web portal will can provide valuable information for policy making and
decision
10.3 Inadequacy of Software and Hardware of the Existing DOT Database

and Remedial Measures for Making It Safer, User-friendly and
Accessible to all Relevant Users.
Department of Textiles was created in the year 1978 as an attached

Department under the Ministry of Textiles. This Department played a vital role
to develop Textiles and Handloom sector. Besides, Department of Textiles
imparts technical training through its educational Institutions to fulfil the
demand of Textile technician and skilled manpower for textile sector. The
department is controlling 4 (four) Textile Colleges (4 year degree course),
6(six) Textile Institutes (4 year diploma course) 40 (forty) Textile Vocational
Institutes (2 year Secondary School Certificate equivalent course) which are
located at different districts of Bangladesh.
128
The Department plans to establish more colleges and institutes to meet the
growing requirement of textile engineers and technologists as RMG export
continues to increase and expand.
The main objectives of the Department are:
• To fulfil the demand of skilled manpower for Textile Sector.
• To Develop and expand existing Textile Institutions.
• To collect data, compilation & publication of MIS report for textile

sector.
• To Assist Ministry of Textiles in formulation of National Textile policy.
• To survey & inspect overall Textile Industry as and when required by

the Government.
In line with the objective, it was felt utmost important to assess the present
and future requirement of textile technologists for different sub-sectors of
textiles and undertake necessary steps to turn out skilled manpower needed.
Ministry of Textile undertook a survey and prepared an MIS with a historical
database from 1972 to 2001. But necessary up-gradation work did not
happen. As such the department has launched the project “Survey of Textile
Sector, upgrade database /MIS and to assess the requirement of Textile
Technologists of different levels” and a consulting firm (Joint venture of
M.I.Choudhury & Co and BPMI) and is appointed in March, 2008 to perform the
said work.
According to TOR, the main objective of the study is “to update the sectoral
information and to establish a computerized databank in DOT useful for
providing policy support and technical assistance to the Textile industry and to
formulate a series of recommendations coupled with action plans for
strengthening the backward linkage of Bangladesh local and export oriented
RMG”.
Also according to the TOR, the specific objective “is to update the database by
the survey data and strengthen electronic website/portal of DOT making it
accessible to stake holders – RMG and Textile Sectors and related business
houses, prepare MIS report for the Ministry of Textiles for FY 2007 covering
the public and private sector textile industry”.
Besides survey and technologists assessment, scope of work also includes “to
identify inadequacy of the software and hardware of the existing installation of
DOT database and undertake remedial actions for making it safer, user
friendly and accessible to all relevant sources”.
10.3.1 Strengthening of MIS of DOT
129
In view of above, consultant has undertaken to develop database system
based on the survey work of 15 sub sectors. The primary work regarding
database system development was presented in inception meeting held on
17.4 2008 defining specific tasks to be performed by consultant and exchange
views to have a consensus on successful implementation of the project.
In the workshop, Dr. Mokbul Ahmed Khan, Team Leader on the part of
consultant stressed that unless the database is updated periodically, MIS will
not be effective. Database System Expert Md. Ershadul H. Choudhury
presented the structure of the proposed database (tables/files and fields) with
24 tables and logical diagram (ER diagram). It may be mentioned that overall
work of database system and MIS is being guided by Prof. Dr. M. Kaykobad of
BUET.
After detailed discussion Director, Department of Textiles specifically

requested to provide a report on the manpower and hardware requirement for
strengthening MIS section of the Department of Textile.
10.3.2 Proposed Databank of DOT
The ongoing project will produce huge data of textile sector and consultant is
developing web database system in spirit of TOR so that information is
accessible to all. It will require installation of a server eventually at DOT
premise at BTMC Building, Kawran Bazar, Dhaka.
The web based database system (client-server architecture) comprises of the

following:
Backend: (i) Oracle 10g DBMS running in a server
(ii) Server side applications in PHP
Middle tier: Report generators (crystal report) and PHP applications

Front end/Client side: Web based on line reports in PHP and HTML.
We have found that existing installation of computer hardware at DOT are
inadequate to establish the proposed system. As such additional hardware will
be necessary to upgrade existing system for server. In addition qualified
technical people will be needed for MIS and maintenance and up-gradation of
data bank in future.
In this regard, we outline below a comprehensive proposal for strengthening
of MIS with the objective to establish a web based data bank and
maintenance.
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10.3.3 Proposal for Strengthening of MIS of Department of Textile
(1) Services of the MIS system
Features of Proposed MIS System:
(i) The database system that is being developed by consultant will be

installed in DOT premise.
(ii) Database system will be web based/online.
(iii) The data base system will be accessible to stakeholders in textile
sectors.
(iv) The divisional offices of DOT will have access to the system through
Internet to submit (upload) information to head office online.
(v) All the colleges and institutes under the department will have access to
submit information to DOT office online.
(vi) Student information system with notice of admission, list of selected
candidates, interview date, and all other relevant information and notices
can be presented on line.
(vii) The web portral will allow students to know examination results on line
( like Secondary and Higher secondary education Board).
(viii) All reports of colleges, sub-departments can be submitted on line and
viewed by DOT officials.
(ix) Divisional offices, Colleges and institutes should have own local area
network of computers (LAN) for administrative purposes having broad band
internet connection.
(x) Necessary hardware and software support to divisional offices, colleges
and institutes will be provided from head office MIS department.
(xi) DOT will publish specific information in the web to concerned stakeholders-
exporters/importers/entrepreneurs/business houses.
10.3.4 The Proposed Organization of MIS section
It is needless to say that for efficient management of this important foreign

currency earning sector of Bangladesh potentials of Information and
Communication Technology (ICT) should be fully explored and exploited to
improve quality of policy/decision making by making right piece of information
available at the right time. Since in the coming days MIS Department will be
playing a very significant role in the development of this sector, this
department must be headed by a person hierarchically placed near the top so
that the department can play its due role in a befitting manner. In that sense
the Department should be headed by a manager (Systems) followed by one
Systems Analyst, one programmer, 2 Assistant Programmers and some data
entry operators as per need. This will in turn necessitate increase of further
computing resources for the Department. This will also necessitate availability
of internet connection\domain for hosting webpage etc.
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However, we feel that department should build its above mentioned
manpower capacity in phases and increase its strength in future depending
on need. As such presently manpower strength may comprise with fewer
people as mentioned above and we propose one programmer, two assistant
programmers and two data entry operators for strengthening of MIS. We
outline below responsibilities and required qualification. MIS section should be
run by competent technical people having academic background in computer
science and engineering with bachelors degree or well trained people having
university degree in science. The department will work as a team and directly
report to Director or concerned Deputy Director. They should also coordinate
with divisional offices, colleges and Institutes and relevant people in the
Ministry. As such both experienced and fresh graduates are needed. Senior
member will manage and coordinate and junior members will perform
technical works under the guidance of senior member.
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10.3.5 Manpower
We outline the following Posts for MIS:

(i) Senior Member: A single post of Programmer
Programmer will lead the MIS team, motivate subordinates and ensure that
works are done properly. He will be responsible to assess MIS need of DOT,
perform requirement analysis and submit project proposals for both software
and hardware. He will make long term and short term plan and prepare
budget of the department. In addition he will guide and supervise MIS related
works such as software development, maintenance and up-gradation. He will
strive in-house software development, testing and installation. He will
coordinate with director/deputy directors and divisional DOT offices, colleges,
institutes and provide guideline to them for MIS and computer systems. He
will provide necessary in-house training to officers and staff to make them
computer literate and use the system.
In addition he will be webmaster to maintain the in-house website and

coordinate with BTMC and Ministry.
Qualification: Computer Science/Engineering graduate with 5 years of
experience in relevant fields.
(ii) Junior Member: Two posts of Assistant Programmer
The responsibilities of an assistant programmer will be to assist system
analyst and work under his guidance. They will maintain the web site and
update information (content management). They will be responsible for
hardware maintenance, LAN and website. They will maintain 24-hours
connection to in-house web server and back up server.
They will do computer programming including web programming and perform

hardware maintenance and networking to keep the system up. They will
provide back up services related to IT system of divisional offices, colleges and
institutes and do what ever the tasks they are assigned for.
Qualification: Computer Science/Engineering graduates.

(iii) Data-Entry operator: Two posts
Minimum qualification of data entry operators is SSC/HSC having required

computer training and skill in using software (MS Office) and operating
systems, basic knowledge of computer hardware and at least on year of
experience.
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10.3.6 Computer Hardware
Table 8.1: Estimate of Hardware for Proposed Computerized Online Databank
(Web based) of Department of Textile, Govt. of Bangladesh
Sl. Description Quantity Unit Cost Total Cost
No (Tk.) (Tk.)
1.1 Server (High configuration brand 2 ( One on-line 1,20.000. 2,40,000.
PC’s HP/Dell and 00 00
another standby)
2. Online UPS 2 KVA ( 2 hours backup 2 1,10,000. 2,20,000.
00 00
3. Switch, 24 port (ASUS, Dlink) 2 12,0000.0 24,000.0
0 0
4. UTP cable for LAN upgradation 2 pack 15,000.00 30,000.00
5. Domain controller- Clone PC 1 40,0000.0 40,000.00
0
6. PC for IT department and others- 4 40,0000.0 1,60,000.
Clone machines 0 00
7. Server configuration, LAN setup LS LS 20,000.00
8. Tools- cable stripper, crimpers, LS LS 3,000.00
different sized pliers, screwdrivers,
wrenches, hex set
9. High quality blank CD, DVD LS LS 2,000.00
10. Antivirus software ( Bit Defender) 8,500.00
Total: 747,500.0
0
Total: Taka Seven Lac Forty Seven Thousand and Five Hundred only
Sources of Information:
[1] “Technical Proposal for Survey of Bangladesh Textile Industry to Up-date
Database/ MIS and to Assess the Requirement of Textile Technologists at
Different Levels”, September 2007.
[2] Tender Document for “Survey of Bangladesh Textile Industry to Up-date
Database/ MIS and to Assess the Requirement of Textile Technologists at
Different Levels”, 2007.
[3] DOT web site: www.dot.gov.bd
[4] Other ministry websites.
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Suggestions for
Improvement
Productivity & Product
Quality of PTS to Make
the whole Textile Industry
Competitive Locally and
Globally
11.1 Productivity Improvement
Productivity is the ratio of output to input. According to the guideline book of

International Labour Organization (ILO), productivity is broadly categorised
into:
• machine productivity,
• labour productivity,
• material productivity, and
• space productivity.
Bangladesh PT units those are designed to direct export or export through
RMG units have made considerable progress in terms of machine productivity.
Some space productivity has been in progress due to transfer of new
technologies; to name few of those, we can mention the exploitation of high
speed rotor, high speed shuttleless looms, high speed flat knitting machines,
high speed bleaching, washing and dyeing ranges, etc. In terms of labour
productivity and material productivity, Bangladesh PT has to enhance effort at
least to surpass India, Pakistan and Vietnam.
Once technology is selected, the following remains in hand to address to

enhance productivity:
• production location,
• organization type,
• market orientation,
• purchase /procurement system,
• product category,
• method of setting production standard,
• testing and process control,
• training & education,
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• maintenance approach,
• payment system,
• utility management, and
• motivation program.
Production location: Production locations have been found to have certain
influence on productivity. General interactions conducted by the DOT survey
team with the factory personnel employed in different parts of Bangladesh
reveals that the overall value added productivity including the labour
productivity of the PT units at Dhaka & Chittagong EPZs as well as in the
industrial belts of Gazipur, Tongi Narayangonj is perceived to be higher than
any places in rest of the parts of the country. The reason is that these
industrial pockets are characterized with the abundant supply of skilled
workers, good road transportations, supply of gas, presence of various service
providers starting from Banks/insurance companies to consultants, sub-
contractors, input suppliers, etc.
So, creation of more textile villages with the all needed

infrastructural facilities could be a way to enhance national PT
productivity.
Organization Type: The productivity of the units registered as incorporated

body and practicing improved management system, closer to so-called
modern corporate management, were found to have better productivity
achievement than those practicing adhoc style management. The effort
should be undertaken to characterize ideal management for each type of PT
industries and that should be reflected in the educational & training
curriculum of DOT. Also the industry should be motivated to understand the
effect of management structure on productivity.
Market Orientation: It is the market that is finally has to be supplied with

the goods to be manufactured or processed. The surveyed PT units with
the poor market orientations were found making considerable delay
& mistake in procuring and processing orders than those having
skilled marketing personnel. The delay results in loss of annual working
days causing decline of the productivity. On the other hand, effective sourcing
or procurement facilitates prompt feeding to the industry and squeezes overall
lead-time; this type of activity can also reduce the risk of up raw material
hazard, cut wastage, and can be substantially be useful in improving quality
and reducing rejection/reprocessing rate.
So, the PT industry’s market orientation & procurement of inputs should be

improved through marketing and procurement training. DOT and other textile
educational institutions should strengthen their curriculum along with the
relevant cases studies and NITTRAD should conduct more market orientation
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& purchase operating training pertinent to Bangladesh PT-sub sectors in order
to enhance productivity.
Product Category: Product category is also important in respect of

productivity achievement. It is better to select product mixes on which factory
staff is experienced or at least consultancy/advisory support service is
available. Product specialization was found having very strong relation
with the productivity enhancement. So, initiatives for necessary changes
in curriculum and relevant training on product specializations should be
undertaken by DOT and other training institutions.
Setting Production Standard: Huge evidences are available in the field that
the method of setting production standard can influence production. The
productivity of the industry utilizing predetermined time standard
plus motion study is quite higher than those having no good
conception on these. DOT should conduct experiments in cooperation with
Bangladesh National Productivity Organization (NPO) and provide correct
focus and recommendations in the curriculum so that industry could be
benefited. Accordingly, DOT should revise its curriculum with possibly
maximum theoretical exposure and practice class. Also DOT can prepare
manual on work study and method of setting production standard for the
different sub-sectors of the PT industry.
Payment System: It was well perceived from the field that the industry
adopting incentive system over average production level has obtained very
good results in terms of productivity. DOT should conduct further field studies
to formulate efficient payment formula helpful in productivity enhancing. The
research outputs should be reflected in the education curriculum and training
program. Initiative should be undertaken to develop productivity friendly
payment modalities for different sub-sectors and should be disseminated to
the industry.
 So a sustainable productivity scheme has to be undertaken in cooperation

with the national productivity organization (NPO) and other textile
institutions. DOT could be recommended to catalyze NPO & other institutions
to work for the industry.
11.2 Quality Improvement
Quality of a product is its all specific attributes and characteristics that

satisfactorily meet the purposes of uses. So, quality is neither a static nor a
single aspect issue. Since the parameters of quality changes from time to
time, Bangladesh PT industry has to follow that course of change to properly
address the targeted domestic and international markets. It is the market that
dictates the quality parameters, finally.
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For improvement of the product quality, Bangladesh PT industry needs to
understand the existing quality parameters and should anticipate the future
trend of its change, which can be done through regular market monitoring and
frequent market evaluation in terms of quality and other relevant issues;
imparting more exposure through education and providing practical skill for
quality improvement through training, awareness creation through workshop
& training are the complementary scheme to enhance the former issues. The
government should employ some organizations or, at least, enable DOT to
cater this type of service for the interest of Bangladesh PT industry.
The visits of the consultants in the surveyed industrial units and buyers
organizations, case studies conducted and the interaction made with the
cross-section of the employees have led the team of consultant to believe that
for bring real improvement of quality in the PTs effective addressing approach
are to be designed for following factors of quality:
• Consideration of quality from market feedback

• Quality of product at design stage
• Selection/use of inputs (raw materials)
• Selection & procurement of right technology/machines
• Testing/Inspection and Quality Control system
• Manufacturing/processing environment
• Man with knowledge and skill
Consideration of Quality from Market Feedback: Designing of product

quality depends on proper analysis of the quality that the market or buyer
demands. Failure to comply with the quality norms is mostly not a careless or
avoiding attitude of the entrepreneurs; the cause is rather a capacity oriented
issue, in most cases. Often there is lack or deficiency at manufacturers’ end to
properly interpret the market quality into manufacturing quality parameters.
The lack of systemic quality culture and/or skilled persons happens to be the
main reason. So initiatives are needed to be undertaken that enable the
industrial units properly understand the essence of modern quality assurance
along with modern quality control/management practices. To make this to
happen, DOT in collaboration with the PT industry can undertake motivation
and quality awareness creation program.
Quality of Product at Design Stage: All subsequent efforts of quality

control go in vain when flaws happen in designing & developing the quality
parameters at design stage of a product. In Bangladesh, except few large
companies, often some mistakes are made at design stage (in particular for
new products), which coupled with other causes quality non-conformity
resulting supply non-compliances along with dissatisfactions, compensation,
replacement, compensation, and even order cancellation. Factory peoples’
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further education and training on quality issues could improve this situation.
DOT’s educational curriculum should include the issues in regard of these in
stronger way. Also DOT in collaboration with NITTRAD can provide initial
quality design support to the industry at reasonable costs.
Proper Selection & Procurement of Inputs (raw materials): Proper
selection and procurement of raw material is the pre-condition to obtain a
designed product with specified quality. Without the proper fiber material(s),
spinners cannot supply weavers or knitters the yarn of demanded quality;
without having quality yarns weavers or knitters cannot turnout quality fabrics
and similar is the case with dyers/processors who without having quality
substrate materials and dyes/chemicals or needed quality water cannot supply
RMG industry with the quality inputs.
Selection and procurement of exactly needed raw material calls for combined
effort of cross-sectional staff of design, operation, testing, purchase and
finance departments as interpretation by steps, preparation of effective bid
documents & in time procurement, testing of samples and efficient financing
-all this has to be done within a specified lead time. DOT and other textile
educational institutions should revise their curriculum keeping this point in
view. The government and BTMA & BKMEA should inspire the industry to
participate more such training that may be conducted by NITTRAD.
Selection of Right Technology/Machines: Selection of right technology is

vital to quality formation; compromising solution is mostly rare. In the earlier
chapter, a comprehensive discussion has been made with recommendations
on possible change of technology in the future and Bangladesh PT industry
should have to responsive to that trend. Because of huge financial
involvement technology cannot be changed every time; so selection of
technology should be based on long term market study and business strategy.
Testing/Inspection and Quality Control system: The UNIDO-EU sponsored
survey on needs assessment (conducted by PPMA in 2006) reveals that
minority of the PT industries have laboratories with moderately skilled
personnel. The majority of the newer spinning mills (31% of all spinning mills)
are equipped with modern testing and quality control equipment of European
origin. 15% of knitting firms (mostly the composite modern knit units), 12% of
weaving units weaving, 12% of fabric processing units, and 6% of yarn dyeing
units have testing equipment. Depending on the sub-sectors, some 7-18%
surveyed units were reported to have laboratory facilities but without skilled
personnel. Huge surveyed PT industry (e.g., 33% spinning, 425 weaving, 44%
knitting, 53% fabric processing, and 64% yarn dyeing units) and 60% of the
RMG companies have no lab facilities and no knowledge of standard testing.
Most of them, unless is not pressurized by the buyers or falls in critical
problems, continue avoiding the hassles of testing. However, under any
urgency they go to BSTI, NITTRAD, SGS, ITS and other private testing service
139
providers. Many industries (particularly RMG companies) have to send their
samples to laboratories in Hong Kong, Germany and elsewhere for testing and
accreditation support.
Since small and medium scale industry constraints in managing testing
equipment, there should be well-equipped, capable, and accredited testing
laboratories that can provide support to the PT industry at reasonable cost.
For providing quality control assistance, DOT in cooperation with NITTRAD can
undertake project to develop quality control and process control related
manual for the modal products, which can be sold to the industry at
reasonable costs.
Environment of Manufacturing/Processing Shed: The humidity,

temperature, pressure, cleanliness of the shed under which a product is
formed or processed often play some roles in quality formation of that
product. Textile education and training curriculum of DOT and other
concerned intuitions should have augmented focus on the issue. Apart from
motivation and awareness creation for the individual PT industries in favor of
environmental parameter control, DOT can prepare controlling manual and
may disseminate at to the industries at reasonable cost.
Man with Knowledge and Skill: Finally, it is man with the proper
knowledge/expertise/experience that brings about every design implemented
precisely. The challenge of acceptable quality can be ensured only by a
sustainable supply of skilled manpower to the industry. DOT has to augment
its testing and quality control related curriculum with the changes of the local
and international market and train up the graduates with the more trained
teachers, modern equipment, and improved knowledge transfer skill. DOT and
NITTRAD may find each other complementary in this regard and work together
for the industry in cooperation with BTMA & BKMEA.
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Suggestion for
undertaking Pragmatic
Program to Diversify the
PT Product Mixes
Matching with the Need of
RMG
In the initial 2 decades of RMG manufacturing and export, Bangladesh RMG and PT
industry, by and large produced the basic products, the design of which were readily
available. But after 2000, a considerable change took place in the manufacturing
pattern. Since then, the share of fashion products in Knitting, Sweater manufacturing
and Woven manufacturing started increasing, necessitating demand of fashion
fabrics and fashion yarns. Fashion products are more value additive as compared to
low priced basic products. This is the vital pulling factor that has been continuously
attracting the manufactures and exporters to go for fashion product manufacturing.
The problem being faced by the interested manufacturers mostly lie in shortage of
design supply and lack of experience. Often individual effort in managing design of
PT products become expensive, as the PT producers do not enjoy this assistance in a
way the export-oriented RMG manufacturers are getting from the buyers. Moreover,
affording such experienced experts becomes difficult mostly for outstanding
payment.
This is the reason that only a few will be able to respond the fashion orders,
nevertheless fashion products’ demand is globally increasing. So, the most viable
way to enable the local PT industry to effectively respond to the order of expert RMG
is to assist then with design support and experience sharing by some local
institutions. These institutions will develop designs of yarns and fabrics for demand-
prone RMG products in the international market. This will cause to enhance diversity
of the PT products mixes in the market. In the international market, the supply chain
is constraining in sourcing assortments containing fashion yarns of different kinds
(e.g. slab years, ICS yarns, Mel large yarns, false twist yarns and various other care
and highly lexured yarns). Similar problems persist in managing woven and knit
fabrics of eye catching textures. Similar type of problems are with colored and
printed fabrics.
The supply chain often has to withdraw or return such orders from Bangladesh
because of less effective response from our PT industries. There is a program under
the scope of NITTRAD, where a design centre will be created. This design centre
should be equipped in such a way that it would be able to develop designs for a wide
range of yarns and fabrics having demand for fashion program etc. This design
centre, in cooperation with the research & QC staff should also develop production
plan for each type of product. And also there should be provisions for sharing
experiences and providing counselling in respect of manufacturing of new products.
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DOT should closely follow this process and share the experience, and then undertake
similar type of project in the remote areas, but closer to industrial cluster/belt to
offer product diversification support to the industry. For this purpose, the concerned
personnel should be trained in home and abroad.
Moreover, from time to time, seminars and product display events will be arranged
to create awareness about the benefit of producing new products, particularly the
fashion products.
The curriculum of DOT and other educational institutions should also include the
issues and strategies for product mix development with enhanced training program.
NITTRAD and DOT can prepare manuals of some mostly demanded fashion PT
products matching with RMG’s need and can sell those to the industry at reasonable
costs.
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PT Development
Recommendations &
the Implementation
Roadmap
In view of analyzing the primary data obtained from the field survey, secondary
information revealed from the reports/publications and case study conducted by the
Consultants, the team concludes and recommends the following:
• Side by side enhancing the effort to cater the needs of the export oriented RMG
industry, Bangladesh PT should be augmented to meet the domestic needs of
apparels, hometextile & furnishing fabrics and technical textiles.
• To create the needed PT capacity in order to address huge unmet gap of demand-
supply both for local and export purposes, a mammoth investment will be
required which cannot fully be managed locally. Bangladesh PT sector is also
suffering from shortage of loan from the scheduled Bank. So, a separate fund for
upgardation of textile industry should be created by GOB so that Bangladesh PT &
RMG sector can have the needed number of industry established under the loan
facility with the interest rate not over than 8% (preferably at 6%).
• To create the needed PT capacity in order to address huge unmet gap of demand-
supply both for local and export purposes, a mammoth investment will be
required which cannot fully be managed locally. So, the join-venture (JV) projects
as well as direct foreign investments (FDI) are to be encouraged, apart from
encouraging the local investors.
• To encourage the local investors and to attract JV or FDI, Bangladesh will have to
create necessary infrastructure ensuring uninterrupted supply of gas, water and
electricity, good communication system, centralized efficient treatment plant
(ETP) logistics and human resource support. For this reason, more textile villages
or facilities like EPZ will have to be built up along with up-gradation of existing
institutions like DOT engaged in catering skilled human resources for the PT &
RMG industry.
• JV & FDI blessed business flourishes in a place where there are securities and
peaces (free of political and religious turmoil) in addition to good provisions for
accommodations and recreations (good hotels, motels, restaurants, beach
resorts, etc.) and healthcare facilities (high quality clinics, hospitals and
dispensaries). So, the investment climate friendly factors are to be properly
addressed for PT & other business development by the government, mostly.
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• Bangladesh does not have domestic supply of textile fibers, apart from tiny
supply of domestic cotton mostly used by the non-exporting PT industry. But
Bangladesh PT is mostly a cotton based industry. So for the sustainable
development of Bangladesh PT industry, the efforts of cotton development board
to increase the production of local cotton has to be coupled by the government
and the stakeholders of the PT industries, jointly. In the analytical way, sericulture
development activity will also be supported.
• Over the last few years, an increasing effort for recycling of textiles is being
pronounced in the informal sector. The small and cottage grade units at Tongi
and Narayanganj are turning out fiber from garment waste. On the other hand,
crude filaments are being drawn from waste plastic products in the informal
sector by many cottage grade industries. But the efforts are suffering from
proper knowledge, expertise and investment. The recycling issue has to be
examined properly to explore out real potentiality and scope of investment for a
sustainable fibre supply to the PT industry.
• One of the biggest factors that have triggered the growth of the Chinese & Indian
PT industry is the domestic availability of the textiles machinery. Globally reputed
textiles machinery manufacturers have set up units in China & India, and have
developed models which are suitable to their industry. Bangladesh has to
encourage the global manufacturers to set up similar units in the country to meet
the requirement of the Bangladesh PT industry.
• Bangladesh domestic machinery manufacturers (only a few fabricating unlicensed

crude products) should be enabled to enter into joint venture and strategic
alliances with global manufacturers to take advantage of the technology transfer.
• Handloom should be upgraded mechanically for enhanced productivity. And also

to have more product flexibility, handloom should be attached with the modern
electronic attachments (jacquard and dobby). For this, a coordinated research
program should be undertaken by Bangladesh Handloom Board jointly with DOT
involving textile colleges & universities, mechanical department of BUET, and
Bangladesh Machine Tools Factory (BMTF).
• Effort for cost reduction is a continuous process. Apart from low interest rate and
low equity, there are other cost factors too. Rather targeting all at a time, initially
it is wise to consider some prioritised cost benchmarks. For example, Bangladesh
can initially target India & Pakistan’s those costs that are higher than ours as
immediate benchmark, then gradually the others. So, DOT in collaboration with
other institutions should plan to undertake such comparative product cost
research program and thereby help the industry by information support.
• Bangladesh PT industry, not forgetting about availability of cheap labour and

issues of employment, should adopt a balanced approach for high productive
technology with an objective to enhance space productivity, bearing in the mind
that the land is going to be very precious all through Bangladesh. For example,
using of rotor spinning and high productive looms economizes space. Similarly,
the weaving sector should be encouraged to use high productive loom and newly
developed electronic attachments for wider diversity of the product mixes.
144
• The processing houses should be encouraged to adopt the technologies that
consume less water & less energy and thereby reduce pollution level & effluent
treatment cost. Reduction of failure is the cause of increased reprocessing. And
increasing effluents. According to the concerned experts, the reprocessing in the
country is in excess of 30%. The industry should be given technical assistance to
drastically lower down the reprocessing.
• Bangladesh PT sector has 3 advantages over many of its competitors including

India, Pakistan and Vietnam in terms of cheap labour per operative hour (of
course not cheap in terms of labour productivity), cheap gas & electricity price
and cheap cost of water sourcing. Unless Bangladesh changes technological
quantum, necessary measures are to be taken so that the PT industry can take
advantage of getting supply of gas or power at cheaper prices. On the other
hand, its labour productivity has to be increased.
• Design support is essential for the PT industry to add more value through turning
out the fashion yarns and fashion fabrics of lucrative textures. The Design Center
of NITTRAD should be developed in such a way that it will develop PT products’
designs (potential for local and international market) and will disseminate at
reasonable costs to the industry.
• Because of considerable cost involvement, it is difficult (if not impossible) for

small and medium scale PT industry units to individually run an efficient product
planning department, responsive to quality assurance (QA). So, a product
development and product display centre should be established that will
continuously develop production plan for the products having demand in the
market as well as that of new products having market potentiality. The
production plan along with the technological regimentations will be disseminated
to the industries at reasonable costs.
• For long term sustainability, there is now way to compromise with quality- neither
in the local market nor in the international market. Since quality is a dynamic
issue changing parameters from time to time, the small and medium scale PT
industry may not follow the course properly. Therefore, a well coordinated quality
support program should be operated that can consult and counsel any quality
related issues at prices affordable by the industry. DOT could be engineered to
voluntarily provide quality support service (QSS) with its skilled human resources
to the industry.
• Bangladesh PT should enjoy research services from a specialized institution like

NITTRAD that should have substantial reach capacity. DOT and other textile
colleges and universities can be collaborative with NITTRAD with their resources
and capacities.
• It is worthwhile remembering that Bangladesh labour is cheap in terms of

operative hour but not in terms of productivity than India, not to speak other
leading PT countries. Apart from increasing machine productivity, the overall
value added productivity has to be increased by enhancing labour productivity
and design support. So a sustainable productivity scheme has to be undertaken
in cooperation with the national productivity organization (NPO) and other textile
145
institutions. DOT could be recommended to catalyze NPO & other institutions to
work for the industry.
• The issues concerning design, product planning, quality, productivity or research

cannot be addressed properly without the involvement of educated and
experienced experts. The activities of the above mentioned textile institutions
and the performance of PT units largely depend on sustainable supply of skilled
human resources starting from operators to supervisory manpower to techno-
managerial and marketing staff. So, HRD and training program should be
enhanced. DOT is imparting skill training through vocational & diploma level
education/training and preparing higher technical cadre of B.Sc. level too for the
industry. Therefore, continuous evaluation of DOT program and scheme for
development of its institutional capacity should be undertaken.
• Regular upgrading of sectoral information by upgrading the database of DOT

every year.
• In order to ensure the future industrial growth, the government has to decide
which would be the most cost-effective and sustainable sources of electricity
generation. Talking about solar energy is also far apart from the reality, at least
for industrial sector because of its unusual high cost of generation. And this cost
is not believed to come down to economic rate at least within next 10 years, the
experts believe. So, the last option remains in hand is to generate power through
nuclear facility. But Bangladesh has not yet taken any meaningful step in regard
of this. Predicting the future growth the government should make some gas
reserve provision for PT & RMG industry only so that these industries suddenly do
not collapse for lack of gas/power. Side by side the government should undertake
nuclear power project without further loss of time.
Time-bound Action Plan/Road Map for Implementation of PT development

Recommendations Made under the Survey
Implementation of the above mentioned recommendations made under the auspices
of the survey does not depend on the single party effort. All concerned governmental
bodies and the stakeholders have to be agreed on the essence of these
recommendations, and joint efforts have to be made by them under a coordinated
initiative. What DOT will design in respect of this will have to go through the parent
organization (MOT & J). So, the MOT & J could be requested to form a catalyst group
by taking members from DOT and MOT & J, who would be encouraged to coordinate
the efforts in respect of implementation of the above PT development
recommendations.
146
Below is provided with a time-bound action plan in summarized form, which later
could be elaborated subject to approval of the Ministry.
Sl. Actions Implementa Months of the year 2009-10
No tion Period
(From- to) Ma Ap Ma Jun Jul Au Se Oct No De
. r r y g p v c
01 Design detailed time-bound by March
action plan, based on the 2009
survey recommendation, to
implement the survey
recommendations specifying
5W&1H approach (what
should be done why should
be done, who should do it
where & when and How).
The action plan shall be
submitted to the Ministry of
Textiles & Jute (MOT& J) for
approval, green signal and
necessary assistance.
02 Formation of ‘Catalyst 01 April to
Group’, taking members 15 April
from all concerned parties. 2009
03 Dialogues with the 16 April to
stakeholders, financial 31 May
institutions, educational and 2009
training institutions, NBR,
EPB, BOI and other
concerned parties to discuss
as how these
recommendations could be
implemented and what
modifications of the
recommendation are to be
made for the interest of
time bound implementation.
04 Incorporating the outputs of 01June to
the dialogue in the 30 June
recommendations and the 2009
fixing up implementation
period of each
recommendation.
Submission of the Report
with fresh strategy to the
Ministry for approval.
05 Sending the Ministry 01July to
approved reports to the 31 July
concerned Departments and 2009
Associations of the
stakeholders for having
comments from them.
06 National Seminar to discuss 01 August
the recommendations and to 15
strategies of the Catalyst August
Group and responsibilities – 2009
who should perform what,
when and how.
07 Revision of the 16 August
recommendations and re- to 31
fixing implementation August
strategies and time with the 2009
147
Sl. Actions Implementa Months of the year 2009-10
No tion Period
(From- to) Ma Ap Ma Jun Jul Au Se Oct No De
. r r y g p v c
outcomes of the Seminar.
08 Submission of the revised 01
recommendations, along September
with implementation to 30
strategy and logical September
framework to the Ministry to 2009
sent to the partners
involved in the
implementation process.
148

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Section – 1: Introduction

Bangladesh export-oriented Readymade Garments (RMG) Manufacturing and

But the export-oriented RMG industry is now at stiff competition because of

Development of the textiles and RMG industries calls for preparation of a

A major responsibility to ensure a sustainable supply of skilled manpower is

At present, DOT is the only formal organization that is producing both

At present, there is a serious shortage of reliable statistics / information on

1.2 Objectives of the Survey

The objectives of the Survey have been to:

• Update the database of the Textile Sector by the survey data up to

• Prepare a series of PT development recommendations to strengthen

1.3 Scope of the Survey

Survey Form-01 : Format for Data Collection from Spinning Mills

In the survey, the following major indicators/variables were considered:

a) Survey entity identification matters;

1.6 Summary Status of the Survey Coverage

Table – 1.1: Sub-Sector Wise Survey Scenario

1.7 Obstacles, Hindrances and Problems Faced

• The Proposal for the Survey of Textile Sector was

• The DOT issued the Work Order for the Survey on 13

• Inspite of issuance of request letters by the Secretary of

• Apart from the above reasons, a large number of

Data Collection from related organizations including relevant study

Sectoral macro data, including name, address, contact no., installed

Data Collection from Field survey (through visiting Mills/Factories, Buying

Table–2.2: Structure of Textile Industry Showing Number of Units,

Jigger Dyeing 1,304 Meter 836,386 284.37

2.4.1 Payments against Import of Textile Raw Materials and Machinery

Table – 2.3 below shows summary of payment of import of textile raw

Table – 2.3: Payments against Import of Textile Raw Materials and

Woven fabrics of cotton, 4298510 525120 72150 13285 16889 180172

2.4.2 Import of Some Specific Items, Derived from Secondary Source

During last 10 years (1998-99 to 2007-08), cotton import increased by eight

Source: Economic Trends, Statistics Department, Bangladesh Bank,

Source: Annual Import Payment 2006-2007, Bangladesh Bank

2.4.3 Countries of Import of Some Specific Raw Materials

Imports were made from:

Cotton: Afghanistan, Australia, Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Belgium, Benin, Brazil,

2.5.1 Production of Cotton, Cotton Yarn and Cotton Cloth

Cotton is produced in the country, but in an insignificant quantity. In 1997-

Table – 2.6: Production under different Sub-sectors

Source: Economic Trends, Statistics Department, Bangladesh Bank,

2.5.2 Updated Macro Database on Production, Derived from Field Survey

2.5.3 Reasons for Shortfall in Production

D – Average duration in hour/day; N – No. of responding Units

2.5.4 Suggestions for Minimizing Shortfall in Production

Power Loom 415 3 8 0 0 0

Garments 1,521 101 67 0 0 0

Total: 4,943 357 172 33 3 77

2.6.1 Export Quantity and Earning from Apparels

Table – 2.10: Export Quantity and Earning from Apparels

Source: News at BGMEA, September 2008

2.6.2 Export Earning from Major Sub-sector Products

Source: Annual Export Receipts 2006-2007, Bangladesh Bank

2.6.3 Countries Where Textile Products are Exported

2.7 Updated Macro Database on Manpower and Requirement of Textile

In the textile Mills/Industries/Factories under the survey, there are, in all

Sub-Sectors Textile Technologists Non- Others (General Workers) Total Grand

2.8 Plan for Expansion of Industrial Units

Table – 2.13: Summary of the Plan for Expansion

Textile Education (Private) 26 26 0

* Weaving includes 19 Denim Factories.

3.2.1 Spinning Sub-sector