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LJUBLJANA
April- May 2011

Spring in Ljubljana
Concerts, countless cultural events
Enjoy your and coffee in the sun
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
of Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Postojna & Predjama
N°17 - € 2.90 Two of Slovenia‘s must-see sights
N°5 - 6Lt
www.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com are an easy day trip away
Contents 5

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving in Ljubljana 8

Getting around 9

Basics 11
Statistics, politics and where to find the loo

History 12
2,000 years in 800 words

Language 13
Culture & Events 14
Music, festivals and exhibitions 14
Cultural centres and venues 20

Where to stay 22 Even Ljubljana’s tourist-friendly dragon reads In Your Pocket!


Business suites to hostel bunks
Dining & Nightlife 29
Where to eat 29
Everything from A to V(egetarian)
Cafés 40
Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes
Nightlife 44
Dance and drink the night away

What to see 51
Bridges, museums and the castle

Where to shop 59
The best of what and where to buy

Bled 63
A picturesque lake on the sunny side of the Alps

Directory 66
Lifestyle 66
Business 67

Maps & Index


Index 69
City centre map 70
Internationally acclaimed artist Jan Fabre will be taking over City map 72
multiple venues this spring with various exhibitions and Country map 74
performances, see page 18 for more details

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


6 Foreword
Everyone’s, by which we mean our, favourite season has
finally arrived! Slovenia may be a winter wonderland, but Europe In Your Pocket
it’s when the snow finally melts, flowers begin to bloom and
temperatures inch higher that Ljubljana really comes alive.
Cyclists take back to the roads, pavement and parks (p 58)
with reckless abandon, cultural happenings (p 14) multiply
more rapidly than the flowers and nearly everyone in the
city settles into a table at a café (p 40) along the Ljubljanica
or elsewhere in town to sip coffee, chat with friends and
enjoy the sun.
For this issue we’ve made a raft of additions and updates.
Several new restaurants (p 30) have opened, including the
home of the infamous Whopper™, our cafés section (p 40)
has duly been expanded, we’ve outlined some changes at
Ljubljana’s most famous sight, the imposing 16th century
castle (p 58), and we’ve even added a cobbler and the city’s
first self-service Laundromat (p 66).
Some truly huge cultural events are also taking place, with
the likes of Manu Chao, Gilberto Gil, Fatboy Slim, Moby and
the Chemical Brothers all performing (p 14), the Fabula and
Exodus festivals once again hosting some of the biggest
names in literature and contemporary dance (p16), and
thousands of erstwhile students taking to the streets for
the annual record setting graduation dance known as the
Maturanska Parada (p 19). If you venture out of the capital,
and most people do at some point during their stay, you’ll
also find info about Slovenia’s two most visited destinations,
Bled (p 63) and Postojna Cave (p56). As always, we welcome
any and all feedback, be it on Twitter, Facebook or even In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of
old-fashioned email. late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands
(Den Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in Cro-
atia (Brac and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia
Cover story (Nis) and in Switzerland (Zurich). A new guide to
While Ljubljana is the undisputed Minsk, Belarus, will be the next In Your Pocket
political, cultural, commercial and to launch, early in the summer.
educational heart of the country, We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to
as well as a full three times larger all our cities. We will be launching even more In
than Maribor, the next largest city, Your Pocket guides as apps throughout this year:
you don’t have to venture very far to find out which cities we will be covering, and
outside the city centre to find wide to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news
open fields, woods and agricultural
land - such as this field of sunflowers and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook
in Nove Jarše, just north of sprawling (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on
BTC CITY (p 62). Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice


Editor Yuri Barron Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o.
Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, Craig Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S reserved. No part of this publication
Turp, Richard Schofield, Francisco
Ljubljana In Your Pocket may be reproduced in any form, except
Alvarez, Elliott Foxton, Patrick Byrne brief extracts for the purpose of review,
Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė without written permission from the
Slovenia Consulting Craig Turp publisher and copyright owner. The
Tel. +386 30 316 602 Photos Yuri Barron, Ljubljana Tourism, brand name In Your Pocket is used under
ljubljana@inyourpocket.com Branka Jovanović, Dunja Wedam license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių
www.inyourpocket.com 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212
Cover photo Dunja Wedam, courtesy of
29 76).
Ljubljana Tourism
Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc.
niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com Editor’s note
Sales & Circulation The editorial content of In Your Pocket
ISSN 1855-3486 Sales & Operations Management guides is independent from paid-for
©IQBATOR d.o.o. Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
Printed Schwartz Biljana Maletič, Katja Šneler readers‘ comments and suggestions.
Published Published six times per We have made every effort to ensure
year the accuracy of the information at the
Maps Monolit d.o.o. time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


in the news 7

Pri Levu wins quality


award
The city’s Commission
on Quality as part of the
‘Quality Selection 2010’
campai gn d ecorated
the restaurant for its
high quality of menu,
service and facilities. The restaurant, located in Hotel
Lev, boasts exquisite Mediterranean cuisine, served in
a friendly atmosphere suitable for all occasions. It also
features a stunning fireplace and aquarium. The Ljubljana
Quality Badge is much deserved!

EasyJet Flights
photo by D. Wedam Although this well-
known budget
Ljubljanica River Clean-Up carrier with a fetish
This year’s Ljubljanica River Clean-Up will take place for orange (p 10) began flying direct from Ljubljana to Paris
on Saturday, 16 April 2011, and bring together divers, Charles de Gaulle three times a week back in December, it
fishermen, firefighters, bargemen and rescue workers. It seems most people in the city are still unaware that they
will also be accompanied by an ecology-themed cultural could be having a coffee on the Champs Elysees, perusing
and entertainment event held at the Cankarjevo Nabrežje boutiques in Montmartre or catching an adult show at
embankment. Visitors to the event will be able to watch the Moulin Rouge for less €50 return - probably because
the show ‘Ursula and the Water Man’ and become owners EasyJet refuses to advertise outside the confines of
of flowering pot plants given away for free by Ljubljana Ljubljana’s Brnik airport. In fact, our recent flights were
Tourism on the nearby Cobblers’ Bridge. so empty that we’re now slightly worried that they will end
up cancelling the route before we get a chance to eat frog
UNESCO World Book Capital legs again, which would truly be a shame!
On 23 April 2011, L jubljana will
officially end its run as the World Easter in Slovenia
Book Capital when it hands over the Easter (or Velika noč) and work-free days are two things not
title to Yerevan, Armenia. In 2009 taken lightly in Slovenia, and this year the two will gloriously
Ljubljana was awarded the honour as combine to form a de facto ten day holiday at the end of April
both a recognition of Slovenia’s long- for many people - with Easter Monday falling on 25 April,
standing literary tradition, as well as followed by work-free days on Wednesday, 27 April (the Day of
an affirmation of the city’s status as Uprising Against the Occupation) and the traditional May Day
an international tourist destination. holidays on 1-2 May. If you plan on visiting Ljubljana during this
Since the first Slovene book was time expect it to be noticeably quieter than usual, although
published by Primož Trubar in 1550, depending on the weather you may still have to elbow your
literature has held an especially way into a seat at one of the countless cafés (p 40) along
important place in Slovenia’s cultural the Ljubljanica river. If you have the honour of being invited
landscape, and as recently as 20 to someone’s home during Easter weekend - which is not
years ago the country led Europe in books published per incredibly likely given that it’s traditionally a time for family
capita. By the time it comes to an end, the Book Capital gatherings - be prepared to eat more or less continually for
programme will have included some 300 events, including three days straight, as the weekend is informally referred to
the upcoming Fabula Festival (p 16) in April. by many as ‘the Slovene eating holiday’. One Easter delicacy
you have to try is potica, a rolled cake that can come with any
number of fillings, most commonly a walnut or poppy seed
Ljubljana IYP on Facebook paste. If you can’t get it homemade, it’s best purchased from
smaller bakeries or the central market.
Can’t wait for the next
issue of Ljubljana In Your
Pocket? Visit our Face-
b ook fan pa ge to get
your daily fix of snarky
comments, travel and
entertainment news, res-
taurant and nightlife tips,
and lots more random Ljubljana-related info. Some of
our regular features include polls on the best of what
the city has to offer, date night recommendations and
videos teaching everyday Slovene. It’s also the best
place on the web to ask questions you may have about
the Slovene capital. And if that’s not enough we also
like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant
vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Besides, who
couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on the
internet?
Potica and Easter eggs

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


8 Arriving in Ljubljana
Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007
and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen- A Word From Our Mayor
agreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been
easier. With a well-developed system of buses, trains
and highways throughout the country, getting around
is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively
small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever,
needed when in town.

Arriving by plane
Ljubljana‘s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km
northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes
about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8,
schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice
as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between
05:00-20:00). Check the airport‘s website for a com-
plete schedule.

Arriving by train
Once you‘ve worked out the tunnel and stair system
and made it to the main train station building, find For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world
everything you need including an ATM and press stand – unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia.
selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts
SIM accounts. Left luggage is provided courtesy of ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most
80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly
on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with
next door. The station also boasts a surprisingly good their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure
Tourist Information Centre, a train information bureau a touch of comfort and warmth.
immediately to the right and currency exchange oppo-
site (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00-15:00, Welcome to Ljubljana!
Sun closed). Getting to town depends as always on Zoran Janković
where you‘re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many Mayor
central hotels are within reasonable walking distance.
Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the
meter is running before you depart.
Arriving by car
Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and
Arriving by bus excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road
All national and international buses arrive at the from where it‘s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the
central bus station which is located directly in front of parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near
the main train station. The ‚temporary‘ prefabricated the city centre. Once in the city, it‘s best to walk the short
station building features little in the way of facilities distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and
for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station narrow street. Also, if you‘re staying in Old Ljubljana be
almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.
the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt
car rental kiosk, with the only other useful facility being
a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired If Things Go Wrong
from ticket window Nº1. Getting to town is the same as
described above. The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue,
andambulance and 113 for police. If possible, find
someonewho speaks Slovene to help you make the
call sincethere is no guarantee of finding an English
speaker onthe other end.The nearest Casualty Unit
(Emergency Room) to thecity center can be found at
University Medical Centerat Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana
(D-2) and emergencytreatment is free for members of
EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We also list local pharma-
cies, dentists, andother services in the directory. You
can find it here. If you find yourself in trouble with the
police, call yourembassy immediately. The numbers for
all embassiescan be found here under Foreign Repre-
sentation in the directory.Useful Emergency Words:

NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP!


gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen
policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police
Ljubljana’s dragon greets you upon entering the lobby of the bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital
main train station

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Getting around 9

Public Transport Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive


Although most of Ljubljana‘s sights are within easy walking
distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people Vinjeta www.dars.si. Slovenia re-
(and you can trust us as we‘re proud card carrying mem- quires all motor vehicles travelling on
bers of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly ef- Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta
ficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system
such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta
Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the can be easily obtained at nearly all
city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may gas stations and kiosks.
be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are
roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so €95/30/15 for cars and yearly/half-
most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While yearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles.
nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you
the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are
some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve
Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si.
costs only €0.80.

Trains Buses
Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admira- Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) D/E-1, Trg
ble job of running an efficient network with clean modern Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax (+386)
trains that are usually on time. Their website (www.slo- 12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.si, www.
zeleznice.si) contains a wealth of information in English, ap-ljubljana.si. Essentially a large caravan without any wheels,
including live information on train delays as well as an Ljubljana‘s temporary central bus station couldn‘t be easier to
online timetable. See the national and international train use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket
schedules in this guide for the main destinations. from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Some tickets can be
bought directly from the driver, but you should always check in
Train Station (Železniška Postaja) E-1, Trg Osvo- the bus station to make sure. The bus station operates many
bodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@ national routes as well as regular international services. QO-
slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Full of nice touches pen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.
such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the
platforms, Ljubljana‘s reasonably central train station just
north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced Car rental
by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See Arriving for The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/
information on several of the station‘s facilities, plus, if you‘re hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must
planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel,
1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter,
signs and departure screens in English. either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is
0.05%. The traffic information centre has road webcams
and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.si.
Urbana Card
Budget D-3, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 14 21 73 40,
The city bus operator, info@budget.si, www.budget.si. Cars from €40 per day.
L PP, h as finall y intro - QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office
duced the long-awaited tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00.
U r b a n a C a r d , a fo r m Europcar D-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 31 38 20
o f e l e c t r o n i c t i c k e t- 52, reservations@europcar.si, sl.europcar.si. Cars from
ing that will eventually €36 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00,
r e p l a c e t h e p r e vi o u s Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open
hodge-podge system of 08:00-21:00.
payment that included IdealRent Tel. (+386) 31 565 170, fax (+386) 4 2323
tokens, coins and photo 776, info@idealrent.si, www.idealrent.si. A wide range of
I D c a r d s . Th e c r e d i t new cars, cheap weekly and monthly rates, and free pick-up
card-sized smar t card and drop-off at many locations in Slovenia (including Ljubljana
is similar to those already used in other cities, such centre, Brnik airport, Bled, Krajska Gora and Maribor among
as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The other places), as well as arranging delivery at airports in
cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at neighbouring countries (Trieste, Venice, Klagenfurt, Zagreb
many locations including various tobacconists and and even Vienna) make IdealRent one of our first choices
news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station when it comes to hiring a car.
and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta
160. Credit can be added for any amount between
€1-50 at these same locations as well as some three Airport
dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)
town. When getting on the bus simply touch the card Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. (+386) 42 06 10 00, fax (+386)
to one of the green card readers at the front entrance 42 02 12 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.lju-airport.si. Well
and €0.80 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 connected to the Balkans and most major European destina-
minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers. tions, Ljubljana‘s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the
city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There‘s

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


10 Getting around

Taxis International train schedule


Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. From Ljubljana To Ljubljana
The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with First Last City First Last *
a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the 06:15 21:15 BELGRADE 05:50 21:50 4
company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting
02:00 08:40 BUDAPEST 12:03 16:35 2
usually costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone
will get you lower rates for longer distance trips. 08:05 07:25 GRAZ 06:34 18:37 4
Elit Taxi Tel. (+386) 41 752 751, elit@elit-taxi.si, 09:27 23:50 MUNICH 08:27 23:40 3
www.elit-taxi.si. 09:27 23:50 PRAGUE 07:14 17:11 2
Metro Taxi M-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. (+386) 80 09:27 23:50 SALZBURG 01:34 14:12 3
11 90.
Taxi Društvo Ljubljana C-2, Gosposvetska 10, 02:30 VENICE 21:20 1
tel. (+386) 1234 90 00, info@taxi-ljubljana.si, 05:45 17:25 VIENNA 07:56 15:57 3-8
www.taxi-ljubljana.si. 07:26 23:50 VILLACH 04:07 19:27 7
Taxi Intertours L-2, Središka 4, tel. (+386) 1520 02:00 21:15 ZAGREB 07:00 23:35 7
97 04, info@taxi-intertours.si, www.taxi-intertours. 20:48 ZURICH 21:40 1
si.
All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December
31, 2011. *Trains per day
free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a
couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office
(open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Austrian Airlines (OS) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)
Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed). Getting there takes about 30 42 02 01 22, office.ljubljana@aua.com, www.aua.com.
minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordi- Flights to Vienna. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:30,
nated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, Sun 06:30 - 10:00.
up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport‘s Brussels Airlines (SN) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)
website for a complete schedule. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 42 06 16 56, www.brusselsairlines.com. Flights to Brus-
Open 24hrs, airport information from 07:00-23:00. sels. QOpen 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42
06 17 50, lju@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines.
Airlines com. Flights to Prague. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Adria Airways (JP) K-2, Kuzmičeva 7, tel. (+386) 13 69 Sat, Sun.
10 00, fax (+386) 14 36 88 06, booking@adria.si, www. Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+44) 87 06 00
adria.si. Slovenia‘s flag carrier. Direct flights to Amsterdam, 00 00, www.easyjet.com. Flights to London Stansted and
Athens, Barcelona, Birmingham, Brussels, Bucharest, Co- Paris CDG. Q Airport office tel. (+386) 4 206 16 77. Open
penhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt, Instanbul, Kijev, London Gatwick, two hours before flights.
Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Ohrid, Oslo, Paris-Charls de Lufthansa C-2, Gosposvetska 8, tel. (+386) 14 34
Gaulle. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Airport 72 46, lufthansa@adria.si, www.lufthansa.de. QOpen
office phone: 04 259 43 38 Open: 05:30-24:00 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Air France (AF) B-4, Igriška 5, tel. (+386) 12 44 34 SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) Tel. (+45) 70 10
47, fax (+386) 12 44 34 48, mail.cto.lju@airfrance.fr, 20 00, www.flysas.com.
www.airfrance.si. Flights to Paris CDG. QOpen 09:00 - Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 4
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 206 16 80, thyljubljana@siol.com, www.turkishairlines.
com. Flights to Istanbul.
National bus schedule
From Ljubljana To Ljubljana International bus schedule
First Last City First Last * From Ljubljana To Ljubljana
06:00 22:30 BLED 05:00 22:30 18-22 First Last City First Last *
10:15 20:10 CELJE 04:50 18:10 5-9 12:57 20:20 BANJA LUKA 13:30 13:30 1-3
05:10 22:30 GROSUPLJE 04:23 21:45 50 10:00 22:25 BELGRADE 00:50 21:00 2-3
17:20 MURSKA 05:45 1 05:10 05:10 BOLOGNA 15:20 15:20 1
SOBOTA
19:45 19:45 BRNO 16:20 16:20 0-1
05:30 23:00 POSTOJNA 06:07 21:10 20
05:10 08:15 MESTRE 11:30 17:10 2
11:35 17:20 MARIBOR 06:52 13:35 3-4 (VENICE)
05:30 23:00 NOVA GORICA 04:45 19:45 15 18:30 18:30 MUNICH 19:45 19:45 0-1
06:00 21:35 KOPER 04:56 19:30 13 20:00 20:00 SARAJEVO 15:15 20:40 1-2
05:30 19:30 JESENICE 05:44 20:44 14 20:45 20:45 SOFIA 15:30 15:30 1
05:15 23:00 KRANJ 04:20 22:15 50 15:30 16:00 SKOPJE 15:30 17:00 1-2
07:10 22:25 NOVO MESTO 05:45 15:28 10 05:10 06:35 TRIEST 14:00 19:30 1-2
05:30 19:30 KRAJNSKA 05:20 20:20 15 01:00 01:00 ZAGREB 16:00 16:00 1
GORA
All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until 31 December All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until 31 December
2011. *Buses per day 2011. *Buses per day

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Basics 11

Climate
Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm
30 150
20 120
10
90
0
-10 60

-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D 30

Religion
Drinking Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the
Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37%
it cannot be bought in stores. of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the
rest of them believing in ‘something’.
Electricity
Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts Smoking
AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs. Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently
banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special
smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.
Money
Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in
denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, Tipping
while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10%
euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated.
among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses,
a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.
Toilets
Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at the Dragon
Politics Bridge (Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik
The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The Passageway (Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at the
president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut Pahor has Triple Bridge (Open 07:00 - 21:00).
been the prime minister since 2008. The next parliamentary
elections will be in September 2012. The government consists of
the PM and 15 ministers, of which two are without portfolio. Exchange rates
1 EUR € = 1.40 US$ = 0.88 UK£ = 1.29 CHF
Basic data = 1. AU$ = 110 ¥ = 1.15 YEN = 9.21 CNY
Population (27 March, 2011)
Slovenia 2,053,355 (2009)
Ljubljana 266,845 (2004)
Market values
Area
20,273 square kilometres Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe,
prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite notice-
Ethnic composition able increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007.
Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Here are some typical everyday products and prices:
Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Product Price
Official languages McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40
Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Slice of pizza € 1.80
Slice of burek € 2.00
Local time Cup of coffee € 1.10
Central European (GMT + 1hr) Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50
Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50
Longest river Bottle of local beer in a shop € 0.90
Sava (221km in Slovenia) Pint of beer in a pub € 2.40
Pack of cigarettes € 2.50
Highest mountain Single bus ride € 1.00
Triglav 2,864m. Movie ticket € 4.90
Postcard € 0.30
Borders Litre of petrol € 1.28
Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Taxi ride across town € 5.00
Croatia 670km Fine for parking illegally € 40

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


12 history

Passing by Robba Fountain on Mestni Trg, photo by D. Wedam

Evidence suggests that people first populated the area known Between the wars
today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People were known After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Slovenia
to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by around 400BC becomes part of the State, and then the Kingdom of
when the Celts started arriving. the Slovenes, Croats and Serbs on December 1, 1918,
which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of Yugoslavia
Roman times in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik (1872-
With the expansion of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the 1957) builds many of his most important buildings in the
establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank of capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia is occupied
the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found in by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians during WWII.
today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of time, In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother was born
Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century AD, in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal Republic
and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and other of Yugoslavia.
early Germanic tribes.
Socialism & Yugoslavia
Medieval Ljubljana Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised of
Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin split of
Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and 1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppressive. Yugoslavs
Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to travel out of
during the first few hundred years of this period and the basic the region and work in the West. Tito dies in Ljubljana on the
shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out. afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative freedom and prosperity
doesn’t stop the region from suffering the same blows as
16th to 18th Centuries the rest of the Communist world, and Slovenia becomes
Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued the first country to declare independence from Yugoslavia,
Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in officially becoming independent on June 25, 1991 after the
1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511 population votes in a referendum in favour of the move on
and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style. December 23, 1990.

19th Century Independence & Beyond


Napoleon visits the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of the After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as
Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this part the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination
of the world, a national awakening takes place during the 19th of nationalist pride and business acumen keeps much of
century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language, the first the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the
college is founded, and the city grows into the shape and form UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several
it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is boosted weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar,
by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of the city is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of
is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city is almost the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen
completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century. The Old Town countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU presidency
is preserved practically intact. for half a year.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


languagE 13

Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)...
alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian,
and also shares many words with other Slavic languages. Questions
Although some words and letter combinations may appear Who? - Kdo?(K-doh)
unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly What? - Kaj?(Kai)
phonetic language with very few irregularities - although Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay)
the letters L and V can do some strange things depending When? - Kdaj (K-dai)
on their position in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak How much does it cost? - Koliko stane (KOH-lee-koh STAH-neh)?
either English, Italian or German embarrassingly well,
so chances are you won’t have to worry about any com- Signs
munication problems. However, as with most countries, Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh)
attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh)
a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd Entrance - vhod (oo-hod)
‘hvala’ and ‘prosim’ won’t go unnoticed.
Travelling
Pronunciation Bus - avtobus (OW-toh-booze)
c - as in pizza j - like y in yogurt š - like sh in ship Train - vlak (v-LOCK)
e - as in egg č - like c in cello ž - like s in pleasure I am looking for.... - Iščem (EESH-chem) ...
One ticket, please - Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stop-
Basics NEETZ-oh pro- SEEM)
Do you speak English? - Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REE-tay
Ahn-GLESH-ko) ? Bar Talk
I don’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm) One coffee, please - Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh
Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahn- pro-SEEM)
EESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? One beer, please - (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM)
Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)!
Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) What’s going on? - Kaj dogaja? (kai DO-ga-ya)
Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Let’s party! - Žurajmo! (zhur-AI-mo)
Yes - Ja (Yah) You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oči (EE-mah-tay leh-
No - Ne (Nay) peh oh-chee)
Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) You’re hot - Si lepa (see LAY-pa)
Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a) Where are you from? - Iz kje si? (iz kye see)
Please - Prosim (PRO-seem) Can I have your number?- Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko
Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) številko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko
Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM) shteh-VEEL-koh)?
My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... See-you, bye! - Ajde, čao (ai-dai, chow)

Learn Slovene Sponsored by: www.veris.si

I SPEAK, YOU SPEAK … SLOVENE.

As in many other languager, verbs in Slovene are conjugated. This means that they have
different endings depending on who the subject is and how many subjects there are. The
following example shows the forms of a very common verb GOVORITI (gho-vo-ree-ti) – to
speak.

singular dual plural

1st person govori-m govori-va govori-mo ŽIVIJO!

2nd person govori-š govori-ta govori-te

3rd person govori govori-ta govori-jo

Jaz govorim slovensko, vi govorite slovensko, vsi govorimo slovensko!


(I speak Slovene, you speak Slovene, we all speak Slovene!)

Need individual lessons of Slovene? Call 01 500 05 79!


language studio

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


14 Culture & Events

This spring Slovene students (left) try to dance their way to another record at the Maturanska Parada; electronic artist Bonobo
(middle) returns to Ljubljana for a show at Kino Šiška; and the iconic posters of Toulouse-Lautrec (right) grace the halls of Cankarjev
Dom

Music
Manu Chao Özcan Ulucan The Bellrays Perpetuum Jazzile
2 April 2011 & Birsen Ulcan 22 April 2011 24 May 2011
Dvorna Tivoli 12 April 2011 KUD France Prešeren Križanke Summer Theatre
Križanke Summer Theatre
Rundek Cargo Trio Ben Frost The Swans
5 April 2011 Zeitkratzer 4 May 2011 24 May 2011
Kino Šiška 12 April 2011 Kino Šiška Kino Šiška
Kino Šiška
Massimo Savić Staff Benda Bilili Moby & Darkwood
7 April 2011 Kultur Shock 7 May 2011 Dub
Cankarjev Dom 13 April 2011 Kino Šiška 26 May 2011
Cvetličarna Gospodarsko Rastavišče
Gilberto Gil Fabio Zanon
8 April 2011 Katalena: Noč Čarovnic 10 May 2011 Saxon
Cankarjev Dom 14 April 2011 Slovenian Philharmonic 30 May 2011
Kino Šiška Kino Šiška
God is an Astronaut Hindi Zahra
8 April 2011 Sol 6 13 May 2011 Zucherro
Kino Šiška 18 April 2011 Kino Šiška 31 May 2011
Kino Šiška Stožice Centre
Nick Vujacic Elvis Jackson
9 April 2011 Dum Dum Girls 19 May 2011 The Chemical Brothers
Stožice Centre 19 April 2011 Križanke Summer Theatre 3 June 2011
Menza pri Koritu Stožice Centre
Bonobo Live Electronic Carnival
10 April 2011 No Means No 2011 Arrested Development
Kino Šiška 21 April 2011 20 May 2011 8 June 2011
Cvetličarna Gospodarsko Rastavišče Kino Šiška
Andejla Bratić
& Bojan Mladenović H2O Jan Plestenjak Sting
12 April 2011 28 April 2011 20 May 2011 10 June 2011
Križanke Summer Theatre Gala Hala Križanke Summer Theatre Stožice Arena

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


culture & Events 15

Mahler In Ljubljana Mars Festival


18.10 Monday - 21.05 Saturday
The Slovenian Philharmonic, Kongresni Trg 10. The
concert cycle Mahler in Ljubljana is dedicated to the
150th birth anniversary of Gustav Mahler, who worked
in Ljubljana as a conductor in the 1881-1882 season.
The concerts, featuring chamber and symphony works,
will be held in the building of the Slovenian Philharmonic,
one of the world’s oldest institutions of the kind. It was at
Ljubljana’s Provincial Theatre that the 21-year-old Gustav
Mahler “learnt his trade” as a conductor. It was only later
that he became a renowned conductor. The concert cycle
marking Mahler’s birth anniversary will be accompanied by
a serious of other events, including a symposium and an
exhibition dedicated to Mahler. Q €8-12

10.04 Sunday
Bonobo Live
J-2, Kino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. (+386)
30 310 110, www.kinosiska.si. Kino Šiška and Drumwise
present Bonobo Live. A musician, producer and DJ, Bonobo
likes to describe his work as ‘spreading joy with music that
ranges from psychedelic jazz to hip-hop’, and has been doing
so for over a decade now. He’s also the first performer we saw
live in Ljubljana, when he was at Klub K4 some four years ago.
For this show he’ll be joined by noted vocalist Andreya Triana Moby headlines the Mars Festival
and others. Q Tickets €20 for advanced purchase, €16 for
students and €25 on the day of the show. 26.05 Thursday
D -1, Gospodarsko Razstavišče, Dunajska 10,
29.04 Friday tel. (+386) 1 200 76 60, fax (+386) 1 200 76
Fatboy Slim 69. The annual Mars Music Festival aims to connect
Ambasada Gavioli, Izola, ww.ambasadagavioli.net. One the capitals of Slovenia and Croatia (Ljubljana and
of the world’s biggest electronic music artists will have his first Zagreb) through the power of music, with two separate
ever performance in Slovenia at the acclaimed club Ambasada performances by the same artists in both cities. This
Gavioli in the coastal town of Izola. Slovenian Railways is of- year’s festival is sure to be the biggest ever, with the
fering 50% off the price of a return trip to Koper on the day internationally known electronic artist Moby headlin-
of the show for those who already have tickets, and anyone ing, and two hugely popular bands from the region also
wearing a Hawaiian shirt will receive a free gift at the door. performing. As the former truly needs no introduction,
Q Tickets €37 in advance, €43 on day of event. we’ll mention a bit about the latter two.

03.06 Friday The Belgrade-based Darkwood Dub was formed back


The Chemical Brothers in 1988, and experimented with several genres and
L-1, Stožice Centre, Vojkova Cesta, thechemicalbrothers. styles in their early years - achieving major recognition
com. Legendary British electronic duo Tom Rowlands and Ed in certain music circles, which included winning the
Simons - better known collectively as the Chemical Brothers title of best underground band in Serbia for their first
- will be one of the biggest acts to ever play the less than one album. It was not until 1999 that they broke into the
year old Stožice Centre. Originally hailing from Manchester, mainstream with their album Elektropionir, a hit with
they were pioneers of big beat electronic dance music in the both critics and fans that was followed by a decade
early 1990s, and have been a fixture at arenas and festivals to popularity in the region.
around the world for some 15 years. Their live sets are known
as being one of the truly must-see events in electronic music, Rotor is a popular Slovene electronic outfit that has
but seeing them in Ljubljana won’t be cheap - with the cheapest been making a name for themselves both in Slovenia
tickets going for €50. Q Tickets €50-75. and abroad since 1998. While the music they produce
is not easily or accurately categorised, it is somewhat
like rhythmic house mixed with elements from modern
disco, French electro, Berlin minimalism and a bit
of jazz and funk. They also earned a well-deserved
reputation as one of the best live acts in Slovenia.
Several other groups will also be joining the party,
but had not yet been announced publicly as we went
to print. Q Tickets are €43 if purchased online, at
www.eventim.si or www.vstopnice.si, or many other
shops such as Big Bang or Petrol stations. €38 if
purchased at Dallas Mute Shop located at Rimska
14 in Ljubljana.
Fatboy Slim comes to Slovenia for the first time

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


16 Culture & Events

Fabula Festival

04.04 Monday - 22.04 Friday


Cankarjev Dom, Trubar House of Literature, Kinod-
vor and many other venues, www.festival-fabula.
org. In April, Ljubljana wraps up it’s incredibly successful
run as the UNESCO World Book Capital with the nearly
three week long Fabula Festival. This year’s event will
once again bring together world-renowned authors,
experts and the public, for the purpose of promoting
world literature and entertaining those who are already Iva Tratnik’s & Marko Jakše’s exhibition War Dance at the
enthusiasts. Prominent international writers will include bombarded Moon
César Aira, Niccolò Ammaniti, Per Olov Enquist, Cristoph
Ransmayr, Drago Jančar and Margriet de Moor, while one 13.05 Friday - 14.05 Saturday
of the main themes of discussion will be the question of Transport & Logistika
Islam in modern times and its effect on the literature. M-2, BTC Logistics Centre, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1
The topic of this year’s international symposium will be 300 26 92, www.logistika-slo.si. The event brings together
the Slovene poet, writer, essayist, translator and political under one roof transport carriers, logistics companies and all
activist Edvard Kocbek, and the festivities will conclude of their support services. The first day is focuses on directors
with an awards ceremony. Most events are free and of firms and heads of departments within logistics enterprises,
open to the public. while the second day is designed for carriers and transport users
and will present news from all areas of the transport sector.

Conferences & Fairs


06.04 Wednesday Exhibitions
FANfARA 01.03 Tuesday - 29.04 Friday
D-1, Gospodarsko Razstavišče, Dunajska 10, www.fan- Marko Modic: Fit for the Skin of the Earth
fara.net. fANfARA is an annual student marketing conference B-2, Tivoli Park, Jakopič Promenade. This open air exhibi-
with the mission of providing quality and practical lectures tion along the main walkway in Tivoli Park brings together 120
from the field of marketing - primarily to students. The speak- large format photographs by the Ljubljana-based artist Marko
ers are both Slovene and foreign experts who have personally Modic. The theme of the series is the threat that globalisation
made a major impact on the field of marketing. They are poses to agricultural land and local food production, and the
also trendsetters who dare to be different, just like fANfARA, photomontage combines images of animals, plants and the
because it is good to be different! The event is organised human body with landscape patterns, such as ground or grass
by the Slovenian Marketing Association’s student section textures. The abstract nature of the photographs is intended
(ŠSDMS), which is comprised of a group of young people with to force the viewer to contemplate certain aspects and issues
an interest in marketing, a wish to learn more about it and that they might otherwise miss. Q Admission free.
get some practical knowledge, all while being part of certain
specific events such as fANfARA. You can find more about 03.03 Thursday - 30.05 Monday
the group on the web at www.ssdms.si. The Ancient Greeks in Croatia
C-4, City Museum of Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, tel. (+386)
1 24 12 500, fax (+386) 1 24 12 540, info@mestnimuzej.
si, www.mestnimuzej.si. This exhibition presents the legacy
of the ancient Greeks in Croatia. The most outstanding of
all the artefacts and pieces of art on display is the famous
Croatian Apoxyomenos, a bronze statue of an athlete cleaning
his body after exercising, found in the vicinity of the Croatian
island of Lošinj.
Including artefacts from over 30 different museums and
private collections in Croatia, the exhibition offers an insight
into the Greek presence in Croatia from the 12th to the 1st
century BC, both chronologically and through various themes
such as Art, Mythology, Religion and Necropolises. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6 for adults, €4 for
students, children, seniors and groups.

13.04 Wednesday - 07.07 Thursday


Iva Tratnik & Marko Jakše: War Dance at the
bombarded Moon
D-4, Ljubljana Castle, Grajska Planota 1, www.ljubljan-
skigrad.si. The exhibition features large scale paintings,
The Ancient Greeks in Croatia some measuring up to 5m, painted simultaneously by

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


culture & Events 17

Marko Jakše and Iva Tratnik. Their work is derived from a


17th century graphic, ‘L’influence de la Lune sur la teste des Labyrinth of Art
femmes’, which features men with lamps, observing “mad”
women, gathered under a full moon. The title is a metaphor Labyrinth of Ar t
for their duality, the duet and duel, the warrior dance they (Labirint Umet-
nearly literally performed while painting. QOpen 09:00 - nosti) N-3, Nove
21:00. Admission free. Fužine, tel. (+386)
1 431 03 44, katja@
16.03 Wednesday - 01.05 Sunday labirint-umetnosti.
Kongresni Trg in the 20th Century si, w w w.labirint-
D-4, Ljubljana Castle, Grajska Planota 1, www.ljubljan- umetnosti.si. More
skigrad.si. Kongresni Trg, or Congress Square, was and of an on goin g ar ts
is one of the central gathering places in the city, and was and cul ture project
directly connected to many important events of Slovene rather than an single
history during the 20th century. While the square is cur- even t, i t wa s c on-
rently closed while a much-needed parking garage is com- ceived within the framework of Ljubljana’s World Book
pleted underneath it, you can see this exhibition of historical Capital 2010 programme as a combination of three
photographs at Ljubljana Castle. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. concepts: the creation of new green areas in urban
Admission free. settings, the promotion of the culture of reading and
the acknowledgement of walking as art. Designed
17.03 Thursday - 25.08 Thursday by Bulgarian artist Venelin Shurlov and situated near
Toulouse-Lautrec: A Master of Poster Art the ci ty’s Archi tectural Museum at Fužine Castle
Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10, www.cd-cc.si. The east of the city centre, the labyrinth consists of 287
exhibition Toulouse-Lautrec: A Master of Poster Art brings trees with a pathway leading from its entrance to an
together original posters by the famous French painter island for reading located at its heart. The project is
and print artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and a selection funded by individual patrons and companies through
of works by renowned contemporary graphic designers their sponsorship of the trees, and will remain as a
created in homage to Toulouse-Lautrec on the centenary long-lasting ar tistic achievement for decades and
of his death. Toulouse-Lau trec’s outstanding graphic centuries to come.
solutions still resonate in print ar t today. His original
works are therefore exhibited along with a selection of
the best posters created by one hundred international sary of Toulouse-Lautrec’s death. Exhibiting designers
graphic designers for the 2001 Nouveau Salon des Cents, include such famous names as Milton Glaser, Mieczyslaw
an exhibition organized in memory of the 100th anniver- Gorowski, and Kari Pippo.

IT S GOOD
TO BE DIFFERENT!
Student marketing conference 2011.
6th April, Gospodarsko razstavišče, Ljubljana.

www.fanfara.net

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


18 Culture & Events

20.03 Sunday - 24.04 Sunday Festivals


Jan Fabre 15.04 Friday - 24.04 Sunday
Mestna Galerija, Gallery 001 and Vžigalica Gallery, 17th Exodus
ww.mestna-galerija.si. This spring Ljubljana will again host
the internationally renowned Belgian multidisciplinary artist, Festival
playwright, stage director and choreographer Jan Fabre. Va r i o u s v e n u e s , t e l .
Three venues operated by the Museum and Galleries of (+386) 1 431 03 44,
Ljubljana will be staging Fabre’s exhibitions, presenting his info@exodos-festival.si,
multi-faceted oeuvre as a visual artist. They include instal- www.exodos.si. The an-
lations, drawings and photographs of his performances, nual Exodos festival brings
shot by some leading 20th century photographers such to geth er con temp orar y
as Helmut Newton and Robert Mapplethorpe. The venues theatre and dance artists
and the manner of presentation were chosen by the artist from around the world. Apart from productions from both
himself, with the curator Katrien Bruyneel actually staging established and emerging directors and choreographers,
the exhibitions. it features interviews with artists, workshops, theoreti-
cal discussions, exhibitions and more. See the festival
29.03 Tuesday - 08.05 Sunday website (in English) for the full programme. Q Tickets to
Coded Utopia: From Makrolab to the Arctic most performances €10-15, with discounts for advanced
Perspective Initiative purchase, groups and multiple events.
B-3, Museum of Modern Art, Tomšičeva 14, tel. (+386) 1
2416 800, fax (+386) 1 2514 120, info@mg-lj.si, www. 07.05 Saturday - 14.05 Saturday
mg-lj.si. The Makrolab project (1994-2007) is being present- 27th International Druga Godba Festival
ed in its entirety in a museum setting for the first time. The Kino Šiška & Cankajev Dom, tel. (+386) 1 430 82 60,
exhibition will include the structure of Makrolab, documenta- fax (+386) 1 430 82 65, info@drugagodba.si, www.
tion of its genesis and ten years of operation from its origin drugagodba.si. Druga Godba is a festival of world and, to
through its first materialization at documenta X in Kassel to a lesser extent, contemporary jazz music. It ranks among
its transition into the projects Interpolar Transnational Art Europe’s best festivals of slightly alternative music dif-
Science Constellation and the Arctic Perspectives Initiative ficult to fit neatly into musical categories. Druga Godba
(API). API is an international non-profit initiative made up of is well known for bringing to Ljubljana leading artists from
individuals and organizations who are trying to raise public different backgrounds and musical traditions who draw
awareness about the cultural and ecological importance of inspiration from different traditional folk musics and are
the circumpolar regions and to establish open systems of committed to creative musical exploration. The Druga
creativity, communications and distribution infrastructures Godba line-up is sometimes even ahead of world trends.
in these regions. The full programme had not yet been finalised as we

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


culture & Events 19

went to press, but some of the performers include Staff


Benda Bilili (Congo), Hindi Zahra (Morocco/France), Damir
Imamović (Bosnia) and Mor Karbasi (Israel).

Special Events
05.04 Tuesday - 10.04 Sunday
5th Qubica AMF Open Bowling Tournament
M-2, Arena, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1 520 5580,
www.arena.si. More than 300 bowlers will be taking part in
the tournament under the auspices of the European Tempin
Bowling Federation (ETBF) including well-known PBA main-
stays such as Brian Voss, Mike Fagan, Robert Smith, Nina
Flack, Krista Pöllänen, Nicki Ainge.

14.04 Thursday
Troja: Fire of Anatolia
L-1, Stožice Centre, Vojkova Cesta. The world famous
dance troupe “Fire of Anatolia” (Fire of Anatolia) under the
creative leadership of Mustafa Erdogan will bring Homer’s
legendary epic of love and war live to Belgrade Arena. With
over 80 actors, singers and musicians, an 8m high Trojan
horse, original music by Marojice Arzen, fascinating light
effects, attractive costumes and breathtaking props and
scenery, the show is currently considered one of the most
spectacular stage productions in the world. Q Tickets are
€40-69, and can be purchased from www.eventim.si.

20.04 Wednesday - 25.04 Monday


International Orchid Show
A-3, The Greenhouse in Tivoli Park, tel. (+386) 1 427
12 80, botanicni.vrt@siol.net, www.botanicni-vrt.si. The
International Orchid Show will feature a numerous different
orchid species and varieties, which are tremendously popular
for their uniquely shaped and brightly coloured flowers. The
show will display, among other things, a large number of plants
donated by Ocean Orchids, a Slovenian company based in
the village of Dobrovnik in the Pomurje region of Slovenia
which, along with the Slovenian Orchid Society, organizes
the show. It will be accompanied by a programme of lectures
and workshops.

20.05 Friday
Maturanska Parada 2011
C-2/3, Slovenska Cesta, sl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matu-
rantska_parada. Since 2001, Slovene secondary school
students have celebrated their impending graduation by
taking to the streets for an organised dance routine. In
recent years the event has grown bigger than ever, spread-
ing to dozens of other cities throughout southeast Europe
and earning a place in the Guinness Book of Records for the
largest quadrille dance event in the world. Last year over
26,000 students took part in the festivities, of whom nearly
7,000 were in Ljubljana - dressed in their traditional orange
and black shirts.

International Orchid Show

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


20 Culture & Events

Cinemas Buy Tickets


Foreign films are screened in the original language with
Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are Eventim B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 14 30 24 05,
usually dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films info@eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/en. Online
tend to open with significant lag with respect to larger ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including
markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and
something realeased months earlier in you own country. Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets
Tickets cost approximately €5. before you even arrive in Slovenia.
Tourist Information Centre D - 3, Adamič -
Kino Dvor D-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. (+386) 1239 22 Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, tic@
13, info@kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org. visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si. The helpful
Kinoklub Vič A/B-4, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist information centre can
6, tel. (+386) 1241 84 11, www.kolosej.si. Recently answer pretty much any question you have about the city,
renovated, this is a charming cinema to visit for a mix of provide you with maps and countless other brochures,
Hollywood and other films. and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and various
Kinoteka D-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 15 47 15 other events. Q Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-
80, www.kinoteka.si. The place for non-Hollywood, art September 08:00-21:00. 22 December 2009 - 2 January
house and European films. Be sure to check the spoken 2010 Monday to Saturday 8:00-21:00.
language beforehand.
Kolosej N-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 20 55 00,
www.kolosej.si. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) C-4,
films inside the BTC shopping area. Kongresni Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1241 08 00, info@filhar-
monija.si, www.filharmonija.si. A century old in 2008,
the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs regularly
Concert Halls with Lebanese-born chief conductor George Pehlivanian and
Centre Stožice L-1, Vojkova Cesta. Part of the massive various guest conductors. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
new Stožice Sports Park located just off the ring road in the
north of the city, the Sadar Vuga designed arena is home
to Ljubljana’s Olimpija sports clubs, as well as several other Conference Venues
basketball, handball and volleyball teams from the region. It Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre
also doubles as the country’s largest concert venue, with a (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) D-1, Dunajska 18, tel.
capacity of nearly 15,000. Tickets for most events can be pur- (+386) 13 00 26 11, luka.zajc@gr-sejem.si, www.
chased through various online retailers, such as Eventim. gr-sejem.si. GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest
Festivalna Dvorana K-2/3, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386) convention centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all
12 34 82 00, tajnistvo@pionirski-dom.si, www.pionirski- of Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows. With
dom.si. A large concert and event hall built by none other 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accommodate thou-
than local lad Plečnik. sands of visitors, and also has 1,500 parking spaces within
short walking distance. For those arriving by public trans-
port, it is located only 300 metres from the main train and
bus stations.

Cultural Centres
Cankarjev Dom B-3/4, Prešernova 10, tel. (+386) 12
41 71 00, info@cd-cc.si, www.cd-cc.si. This complex
from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre,
dance, film, exhibitions and congresses.
Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17 Goethe-Institut C-2, Tivolska 30, tel. (+386) 13 000
063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com. As 311, fax (+386) 13 000 319, info@ljubljana.goethe.org,
the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally www.goethe.de/ins/si/lju. The German cultural centre:
renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an language courses, a library with newspapers and CDs, exhibi-
eclectic range of performances several times per week, tions and other events. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Thu 13:00
including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
on other nights. The state of the art sound system and Institut Français C/D-4, Breg 12, tel. (+386) 1200
acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and 05 00, www.institutfrance.si. The French cultural institute
audiences. Regular shows include Rapetek (hip hop shows offers language courses, exhibitions, films and other events.
the last Friday of every month), Zeleno sonce (funk concerts There’s also a library with newspapers, films and music. Q
the first Friday of every month), Kapa records festivals (shows Open Mon & Tues 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-14:00. Closed
by artists signed to the venue’s own label), Dub Club (electro- Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun.
dub nights), Pozor! Nov bend na vidku! and Domorodni četrtki Istituto Italiano di Cultura (Italian Cultural
(featuring up and coming international and Slovene bands Institute) C/D-4, Breg 12, tel. (+386) 1241 56
respectively). From May till October a summer stage and 40, segreteria.iiclubiana@esteri.it, www.iiclubiana.
garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can esteri.it. Language courses and a library with books,
accommodate nearly 1000 people. films and music from Slovenia’s most important neighbour.
Hala Tivoli A/B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430 67 QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00.
50, justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si. Closed Sat, Sun.
Križanke C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1, tel. (+386) 12 Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) J-2, Trg Pre-
41 60 26. A beautiful open air theatre with great accoustics komorskih Brigad 3, tel. (+386) 30 31 01 00, info@
for various summertime concerts and events. kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. After nearly a year of

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


culture & Events 21

renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened Mala Galerija C-3, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386) 1 241
its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring 68 00, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. A separate section of
several state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition the Ljubljana Museum of Modern Art intended to host solo
spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, exhibitions of work by contemporary artists from Slovenia
theatre, dance and experimental events, it already attracts and abroad. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
big-name regional and international artists, and is sched- Closed Mon.
uled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) D-3/4, Mestni Trg
are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the 5, tel. (+386) 1241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@siol.net,
Cathedral’, which can fit over 800 people. Check out their www.mestna-galerija.si. The largest fine art exhibition
English language website for more info and a full schedule of space in Ljubljana, next to the Town Hall. QOpen 10:00 -
events. 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
KUD France Prešeren K-4, Karunova 14, tel. (+386) Photon E-3, Križevniška 10, tel. (+386) 12 30 20 71,
12 83 22 88, kud@kud-fp.si, www.kud-fp.si. A venue for dejan@photon.si, www.photon.si. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
concerts, theatre, exhibitions and other events. QOpen Closed Sat, Sun.
10:00 - 22.00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Škuc Gallery D-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax (+386) 1421
Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) 31 40, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. One of the cities
F-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org. Ljubljana’s most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous
famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featur-
which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad ing some oft he most important people in contemporary
audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is art from throughout the region and the continent. QOpen
in English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and
alternative alternative to the dance music found in most
other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care more Theatres
that you’re ‘cool’ as in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko)
what you’re wearing and how you sip your drink. Well worth C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1251 08 52, info@mgl.si,
checking-out both for itself and for the philosophy behind the www.mgl.si. The MGL has two stages that are the home of
whole set-up. modern, progressive drama since the Yugoslav era. QOpen
Österreich Institut (Austrian Institute) B-3, Trg 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Francoske Revolucije 6, tel. (+386) 14 26 99 70, www. Kavarna Union D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308
oesterreichinstitut.si. German language courses, lectures, 17 63, www.gh-union.si. The stage of the Kavarna Union
films, exhibitions and other events. Q Open Mon & Tue 10:00- coffee house, inside the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00 -
18:30, Fri 10:00-16:00. Closed Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun. 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče
Drama) C-4, Erjavčeva 1, tel. (+386) 1252 15 11,
Galleries drama@drama.si, www.drama.si. With its roots reaching
These are some of the city’s more established smaller back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays
galleries - most of which have art available for purchase. from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime,
For info on larger galleries and museums please refer to Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed.
the What to See section. Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) D/E-3,
Krekov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1300 09 70, www.lgl.si.
Bežigrajska Galerija 1 (BG1) K-2, Dunajska 31, tel. Taking as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre
(+386) 1 2411 770, fax (+386) 1 2411 782, mestna. in the 15th century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948,
galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. Q Open provides over 500 performances annually, and is a hotbed
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. of creative music, design and other forms. Q Open 16:00
Bežigrajska Galerija 2 (BG2) K-2, Vodovodna 3, tel. - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office
(+386) 1 2411 770, fax (+386) 1 2411 782, mestna. is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday
galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. Q Open from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. performance.
Equrna C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 23, Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre C-3,
equrna@volja.net, www.equrna.si. Modern art in an Cankarjeva 11/1, tel. (+386) 1241 17 66, info@
elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat opera.si, www.opera.si. A beautiful neo-Renaissence
10:00 - 13:00. No admission. theatre in the city centre that’s used for various classical
Galerija Kresija D-3, Stritarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 13 performances. Its lengthy renovations and expansion
06 11 71. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun finall y seem to be nearing an end, wi th a reopening
10:00 - 13:00. scheduled for the spring. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Ganes Pratt C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1251 16 Sat, Sun.
33/(+386) 1251 16 34, info@ganes.si, www.ganes.si. Slovenska Mladinska Gledališče E-1, Vilharjeva
This fairly new space (found in the alley next door to Equrna) 11, tel. (+386) 1 425 33 12, info@mladinsko-gl.si,
features some of the most exciting new Slovenian artists. en.mladinsko.com. The Mladinsko Theatre (or the SMG)
QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. is considered a laboratory for actors, directors, choreog-
Closed Sun. raphers and musicians to research and develop, risk and
Jakopič Galerija C-4, Slovenska 9, tel. (+386) create. Q Main box office at Trg Francoske Revolucije 5
1 24 12 500, inf o@mestnimuzej.si, w w w.mest- is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30, Sat 10:00-13:00.
nimuzej.si. A branch of the City Museum of Ljubljana,
the Jakopič Gallery hosts exhibitions of contemporary art
and design by Slovenian and international artists. The
programme of exhibitions focuses on the role of contem-
porary art in its local environment. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Closed Mon.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


22 Where to stay
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
H Conference facilities T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking R Internet
G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi

Over €170
Antiq Palace Hotel & Spa C-4, Gosposka 10/Vegova
Weekend package 5a, tel. (+386) 838 96 700, fax (+386) 838 06 790,
sales@antiqpalace.com, www.antiqpalace.com. With
in Ljubljana the opening of Antiq Palace & Spa, Ljubljana finally has a
top end boutique hotel on par with any other in the world in
Spend some wonderful terms of luxury, service and history. In fact, calling it a simply
d ay s at M on s Hot el . a ‘hotel’ is misleading, as it is truly a palace in every sense of
the word. The sprawling 16th century building was a former
noble residence and has been painstakingly restored to
• Two overnights its original splendour. Its 13 fully-equipped and beautifully
• furnished residential suites range in size from 100 to 250m²,
and several unique spaces are available for business meet-
• Welcome drink ings, conferences and other events. The premises also
include luxurious and intimate spa facilities, where guests
can indulge themselves with the finest treatments and then
unwind in a Jacuzzi, sauna or steam room. Q 13 suites (sin-
gles €115-240, doubles €275-330, duplex residence €550).
• PTJHARUIFLEDXW
• Free use of internet Grand Hotel Union Business D-3, Miklošičeva 3,
• Free return shuttle to Ljubljana tel. (+386) 1308 11 70, fax (+386) 1308 19 14, hotel.
historical city centre business@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Attached to its
sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the
• Free parking facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms
and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to
Package price: put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities
include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms,
secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and
leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out
their extensive website for further information. Q 327 rooms
(singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446).
per person PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

in a double room Grand Hotel Union Executive D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel.


(+386) 1308 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.si, www.gh-
union.si. In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the
Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully
decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely
HOTEL AND CONGRESS CENTRE LJUBLJANA old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of
facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent
For INFO & RESERVATIONS please contact
The offer is valid till 31th May 2011.

restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent


Phone: +386 1 470 27 05 gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts
E-mail: info@hotel.mons.si, the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00. Q 327
rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546).
MONS Hotel and Congress Centre, PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh
Pot za Brdom 4, SI–1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

Hotel Listings Policy


Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by al-
COUPON phabetical order within that band. The price band refers
to the rack rate for a double room.
Receive a 10 % discount with this coupon.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


2 del oglas hotel mons_in your pocket sept2010.indd 1 16.9.2010 14:28:50
Where to stay 23

Lesar Hotel Angel D-4, Gornji Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1 42 55 glorious rooms, this place really is just what the doctor
089, fax (+386) 1 42 55 090, info@angelhotel.si, www. ordered. Indoor facilities are many, including gym and sauna.
angelhotel.si. With the Lesar opening its doors last year, Gornji The congress facilities are state of the art. Q 110 rooms
Trg has officially become the address of choice for Ljubljana’s (singles €112-210), doubles €137-235, suites €257-355).
boutique hotels. Owned by the same folks who run the exquisite PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh
Pri Vitezu restaurant, the hotel is housed in a beautifully restored
villa at the foot of the castle and is an exercise in elegance and
luxury. A labyrinth of hallways and stairs leads to a total of twelve €100-170
unique rooms, and the premises also include a lounge, bar, Allegro D-4, Gornji Trg 6, tel. (+386) 59 119 620/
several terraces and a 500m² garden. Additionally, the staff’s (+386) 41 557 908, info@allegrohotel.si, www.alle-
first-rate service and attention to detail has been duly rewarded grohotel.si. We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket
with a top ranking on several online hotel booking sites. Q 12 B&B or a cosy boutique hotel, but semantics aside there’s a
rooms (5 doubles €120-150, 7 suites €170-350). lot to like. The 12 individually designed rooms each feature
a different colour scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and
Lev C-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 1 433 21 55, info@ greens most prevalent, along with gorgeous wall paper and
hotel-lev.si, www.hotel-lev.si. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel faux-antique furnishings. Several large common areas add to
started business in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s man- the overall charm, including a great lounge, a courtyard out
aged to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie, back and a breakfast room in the cellar that could easily be
Kirk Douglas, Luciano Pavarotti, Bob Dylan and countless mistaken for a restaurant. Q 17 rooms (singles €95-115,
others in its time. A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine doubles €130-150). PJARBW hhhh
overture to the nearly 200 high quality, air-conditioned rooms
- ranging from singles through to some exceedingly posh Antiq D-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1 421 35 60, fax
suites. All come complete with facilities including soundproof (+386) 1 421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.si, www.antiqhotel.
windows, cable television and a choice of internet connec- si. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of
tions. Extras include popular business and conference serv- rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming
ices and a restaurant specialising in some fine Mediterranean little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have
dishes. Q 173 rooms (singles €200-286, doubles €240-312). been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden
POJHARUFGKXW hhhhh beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls
and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small
Mons H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 1470 27 00, budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful
fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.mons.si, www. eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors
hotel.mons.si. Along the highway to the west of the city come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent
and close to the zoo, Mons is the city’s only combined hotel bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different,
and congress centre, and a very good one it is indeed. From more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist
the magnificent works of art in the lobby (indeed, Mons furniture. Q 16 rooms (singles €85-110, doubles €156-206,
markets itself as the country’s first designer hotel) to the extra bed €50) . PJAR6IGW hhhh

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


24 Where to stay

M hotel, Derčeva ulica 4, 1000 Ljubljana


t: +386 1 513 7000, e: info@m-hotel.si

www.m-hotel.si

Best Western Premier Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. but there’s also one larger apartment. In the morning, head
(+386) 1 470 11 00, fax (+386) 1 251 71 64, sales@ down to the cafe for a coffee and breakfast and at night grab
hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. On the site of the one last drink before heading up to your glorious temporary
oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in home. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. 5 rooms (singles €55, doubles
the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, €96, apartment €112). PTJA6GBKS
from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest
cotton. The breakfast is a buffet affair of the highest quality; Portal Guesthouse M-3, Zaloška 110, tel. (+386)
you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste 1 54 00 166, fax (+386) 1 54 00 660, portalm@siol.
everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wi- net, www.portal-m.si. This long-running guest house (and
Fi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous popular Balkan restaurant) is located along the Ljubljanica
service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you about halfway between the ring road and the city centre,
have one hell of a package. Q 168 rooms (singles €75 - 134, with frequent bus connections (N°11, 20 and 25) in both
doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335). directions. It’s rooms are furnished in a traditional Alpine
PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh style, and is a good choice for families - especially those
with young children. Breakfast is included in the price,
M Hotel J-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 00, fax and half-board is an additional €9. Q 11 rooms (singles
(+386) 1513 70 90, info@m-hotel.si, www.m-hotel. €71.50, doubles €91, triples €117 and quads €156).
si. Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this PTALEKW
fine, modern business class hotel comes with over 150
well appointed rooms, all with cable television, en suite Stil O-4, Litijska 188, tel. (+386) 15 48 43 43, hotel@
bathrooms, free wireless internet access and 40 extra- hotel-stil.si, www.hotel-stil.si. Located in a quiet rural set-
length beds for those who need it. Excellent value for what ting near the ring road on the eastern edge of the city, Stil is a
you get, extras include restaurant, summer terrace, car convenient choice for those with their own transport who are
rental and a hairdresser. Q 154 rooms (singles €61-135, looking to avoid the noise and activity of the city centre. The
d oubl es €77-168). P H A R 6 U L G K X W modern building houses a range of rooms and apartments,
hhh and there’s a large parking lot for guests. All facilities are
air-conditioned and come with en suite bathrooms, mini-bars
and wireless internet. Two seminar rooms are also available.
€70-100 Q 43 rooms (singles €72, doubles €75-90, triples €108,
Kavarna Maček Rooms D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) apartments €90-170). PHARLG hhh
1425 37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net. With rooms this beautiful
and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy of other travel-
lers. These rooms are along the river and above the popular More hotels online
Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed in a tasteful modern ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
style. The rooms are mostly singles and doubles for couples,

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


26 Where to stay
Stari Tišler D-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430 33
70, fax (+386) 1 430 33 75, info@stari-tisler.com, www.
stari-tisler.com. Cheap and cheerful budget accommodation
in a charming old building in the city centre. There are six
rooms, which you will find at the top of a glorious staircase,
and which, while they share bathroom facilities, do come
with televisions. The triples are great value. There’s a good
breakfast included, which in the summer is served outside in
the courtyard, and an internet corner. Q 6 rooms (doubles
€44, triples €66). PJALGBK

Hostels
Aladin J-2, Tugomerjeva 56, tel. (+386) 41 66 64
77, fax (+386) 1 515 14 36, info@aladin-hostel.com,
www.aladin-hostel.com. Freaky pink and orange walls,
internet in every room and your classic hostel ambience
just north of Tivoli Park. Nice extras include a 24-hour
ATM, billiard table and vending machine for snacks, plus
there are a couple of communal kitchens and car park for
guests. Between 08:00-22:00 they also offer free pick-up
from the main train and bus stations, so you don’t have
to worry about lugging your bags across town or sorting
out the local bus system before you settle in. Q 52 beds
in doubles and 3- and 4-bed dorms (€10-23 per person).
PHAGKW h

Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 40 636 205.


Located in Rožna Dolina, a quiet student and residential
The exquisite dining room at Lesar Hotel Angel neighbourhood southwest of the city centre, this cosy hostel
occupying an apartment above a popular Italian restaurant
of the same name has the cheapest beds in town. The
Under €70 friendly owner, Marko, provides free pick-up from both the
Bit Center M-4, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 15 48 00 55, airport and train station, and will generally do what he can
fax (+386) 15 48 00 56, hotel@bit-center.net, www.bit- to make you feel at home. If you come on your own bus 14
center.net. A combined hotel, sports centre and youth hostel stops right across the road and you can’t miss the bright
10 minutes east of the centre, rooms are basic but clean, orange building. However, there’s not always someone
coming with en suite bathrooms facilities and cable television at reception so it’s a good idea to arrange your arrival in
in every room. Budget means budget here, so there are no advance. Q 20 beds (11-bed dorm €12, 9-bed dorm €13).
fancy restaurants or bars, just a snack counter and little else. ALK
Sports facilities including badminton and squash courts, fit-
ness centre and gym. The ‘Working Inn’ hostel option provides Celica F-1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. (+386) 12 30
excellent value rooms that sleep up to 10 people with shared 97 00, info@souhostel.com, www.hostelcelica.com.
bathroom facilities. Q 39 rooms (singles €34.50, doubles Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding build-
€46, triples €47.50, dorm beds €15). Breakfast (€3.50) not ings close to the stations and the city centre started life in
included. AGBKDW h the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian military barracks.
Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms have been kept
Center C-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 15 20 06 40/ almost as they were, providing a cheap and definitely quirky
(+386) 41 26 33 47, fax (+386) 15 20 06 44, info@ place to spend the night behind bars. Other rooms are also
hotelcenter.si, www.hotelcenter.si. Just opened last available as well as dormitories to sleep from four to 12
year, this eight-room family-run affair is hard to beat in terms people. There’s even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge
of location and price. The rooms are a bit on the Spartan range of other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet
side, but not without their own charm, owing in large part to access, tourist information and bicycle hire. The hostel’s
the premises: a renovated 19th-century government building café serves an excellent value set lunch every day. Q 29
with high ceilings and splashes of exposed stonework. Run rooms (rooms €23-25 per bed, dorms €16-18 per bed).
by the same people as Café Compañeros downstairs, there PJHAR6ULGKW h
are often packages available - including free dinner and/or
drinks - if you’re staying at least two nights and inquire about Hostel Print J-4, Rožna Dolina IV/34, tel. (+386)
them in advance. Q 8 rooms (doubles €60-75). 51 387 111, info@hostelprint.com, hostelprint.com.
Ljubljana’s newest hostel is actually more of a budget hotel as
Emonec C/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1 200 15 all accommodation is in single, double and triple rooms, which
20, fax (+386) 1 200 15 21, hotelemonec@siol.net, are fully furnished and even include fridges. Tasty home-made
www.hotel-emonec.com. This clean and slightly hidden breakfasts are also included in the prince and easily exceed
hotel actually gives you front row seats to the city as it sits what you get at most other budget options. However, the
right inside the Prešernov trg area. The accomodations are place still manages to maintain a laid back hostel vibe with
sparse and while they have no restaurant there are no short- several common areas and a huge terrace off the kitchen.
age of options as soon as you walk out of the door. A great Located in the student neighbourhood of Rožna Dolina, it’s
choice for the traveller on a budget. Q 41 rooms (singles a short walk to the centre or a quick ride on bus 14 (hop off
€64, doubles €67-77, triples €90-96, quads €105-111). opposite Mercator). Q 25 rooms (singles €25, doubles €50,
JHAR6UW hh triples €66). PTRLGXW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


restaurant & pizzeria
Mediteranean cuisine
and delicious pizzas
Cesta na Brdo 33, Ljubljana
+386 1 423 24 23
e-mail: azur@telemach.net
www.azur-tratorija.si

HOSTEL AZUR
Cosy Hostel ideal for small groups
- up to 20 people, located on top of
a pizzeria in a green and peaceful area

Cesta na Brdo 33, Ljubljana


Sattnerjeva 2, Ljubljana
+386 40 636 205
e-mail: hostel.azur@gmail.com
www.hostelbookers.com

Restaurant and Rooms ***


Tasty mediteranean cuisine
and comfortable guest rooms

Cesta I / 26a Rožna dolina, Ljubljana


restaurant: +386 01 386 1 422 88 40
room booking: +386 41 673 783
e-mail: katrca1905@gmal.com
www.katrca.si
28 Where to stay

Apartments Around Ljubljana


Marta Studio J-4, Tržaška 24, tel. (+386) 5 9020 Bohinj Park J-6/7, Triglavska 17, tel. (+386) 4577
452, fax (+386) 5 9060 012, info@mar tastudio. 02 10, fax (+386) 4577 02 20, info@bohinj-park-
eu, www.martastudio.eu. These three self-contained hotel.si, www.bohinj-park-hotel.si. Recently built and
studios and one large 100m² apartment make are reason- adjoined to the AquaPark itself, during the colder months
ably priced alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with there is now need to leave the premises at all, with a
modern facilities, including kitchenettes, the family-run complete resort at your very fingertips! The hotel offers
accommodation is just a short 10 minutes walk from the exceptional comfort in all its rooms and suites, as well
city centre, or an even shorter bus ride. Restaurants, as a classy restaurant and bar. There are wellness and
banks and a supermarket are all nearby, and airpor t spa facilities in the hotel itself or you can pop over to the
pick-up can be arranged for little more than the cost of a AquaPark for even more health programmes. You might
bus. The entrance is on the corner of Tržaška and Idrijska take a fancy at this service though: Domančić BioHeal-
Streets Q (3 studios €45-55, 1 apartment €105-145). ing, which uses bio-therapeutic healing, a special form
TA6L of alternative medicine, for curing numerous illnesses
and diseases. Another fabulous amenity is a Bowling
Tour AS D-2/3, Mala Ulica 8, tel. (+386) 1434 Centre which includes 5 professional bowling lanes - lots
26 60, fax (+386) 1434 26 64, info@apartmaji.si, of fun awaiting the whole family. Q 102 rooms, 8 suites
www.apartmaji.si. These are the people to talk to if (doubles €69-111, suites €400-650). PTHAR�
you’re interested in renting an apar tment during your UIFLGBKCW
stay in Ljubljana. From an office just a few minutes walk
directly south of the main train and bus stations, they
operate over 40 units of varying sizes located all around Couchsurfing
the city. On their website you can find incredibly detailed Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There
descriptions of each apartment from photos and floor are literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently
plans to available amenities such as microwaves and offering their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches
dishwashers. They can also arrange day trips to just about and floors for free to fellow travellers. The site, which
every where in Slovenia. Q 40 apartments (€59-154). combines social networking with hostel booking, is
PTJAR6UL a great option for anyone interested in hanging out
with locals and saving some cash on accommodation.
It can obviously be a hit-or-miss experience, but the
More hotels online exhaustive member profiles will give you a good idea of
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com what to expect from your prospective hosts. Info www.
couchsurfing.org

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 29

Symbol key Asian


Aside from the virtually countless, and sadly indistinguish-
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted able, Chinese restaurants around town, Ljubljana isn’t
E Live music S Take away exactly a hotbed of cuisine from the Far East. However,
there are (small) handful of first-rate options to choose
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled from, including the atmospheric, if a a bit overpriced,
R Internet L Guarded parking Sushimama, and Shambala, a great pan-Asian place.
O Casino J Old Town location China Fast Food E-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel.
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi (+386) 31 56 82 78. Six little tables inside a small restaurant
on the ground floor of Centar Ledina (across the park opposite
B Outside seating V Home delivery the main train station), constantly busy at lunchtime with locals
tucking into food cooked in a single wok by a Chinese man vis-
ible through a large plate glass window. Reasonably priced, fast,
Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with and with vegetarian options as well, the food is pretty good,
new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. and worth investigating if you find yourself here with an empty
A couple of our current favourites include the always stomach and not a lot of time. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed
packed Luka Lunch Café and the exquisite (but pricey) Sun. (€4.70-6.80). PJAUGS
Pri Vitezu. Although more often than not these days
eating out often means burek for us. NEW
Moysushi D-4, Mestni Trg 17, tel. (+386) 59 93 55 40,
Those not in town for its culinary excellence and who moysushi.com. The prospect of a reasonably priced sushi
plan to do plenty of walking will be pleased to discover bar opening in the heart of the old town had us well and truly
that almost every street has at least one burek and excited this past winter. Call us crazy, but there’s just something
pizza place on it. Eating on the hoof in Ljubljana is a fun about snatching colour-coded plates of raw fish and other
treat not to be missed. morsels from a conveyor belt in a futuristic faux-Japanese set-
ting! It’s also nice to know that their head chef is actually from
The following reviews are by no means complete, but Japan. While we prefer to linger over several bottles of sake and
do offer a bit of everything for everyone, from the finest perhaps order a main dish or two off the á la carte menu, the set-
white-tablecloth options available to the more amus- up makes for a quick lunchtime option and prepared takeaway
ingly backwards establishments complete with greasy boxes are also available - chopsticks optional. QOpen 10:00
cutlery and bumbling waiters. - 22:00. Closed Sun. (Plates €1.80-3.30, mains €4-9).

Stuffed squid is a popular dish in Ljubljana, and one of the best places to try is at Valmarin on Gornji Trg

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


30 Restaurants
Gostilnica Rio-Momo C-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386)
31 751 751/(+386) 14 25 32 26, portalm@siol.net,
www.riomomo.si. Situated between the central post office
and Kongresni Trg on the city’s main thoroughfare, we’ve
never found the exterior to be the most inviting but once you
get inside it’s actually quite warm and cosy. The thick leather
covers on the menus portend the ample selection of grilled
meat dishes within, although vegetarians have a handful of
a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way
in don’t forget to check the table outside for flyers entitling
you to a free glass of wine. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19).
PTJAUSW

Gostišče Portal M-3, Zaloška 110, tel. (+386) 1 540


01 66, portalm@siol.net, www.portal-m.si. Step into this
cavernous old gostilna or stay out on the terrace and watch
the river flow by at this great restaurant tucked away from the
The recently opened Moysushi on Mestni Trg traffic. While they offer pizzas and pastas, the parking lot stays
full with people here for real grilled Serbian food, and those
Shambala C-4, Križevniška 12, tel. (+386) 14 26 options abound. They also have a long list of good Slovenian
30 14/(+386) 31 843 833, info@shambala.si, www. wines to drink alongside. Several rooms are also available for
shambala.si. Great value Asian food in a quiet, side street hire. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (€7-20).
location. Head out back to the covered garden and order PTAULEGBXSW
any of the tremendous stir fries, though do not forego
the star ters: tempura made with shrimps make great Harambaša C-5, Vrtna Ulica 8, tel. (+386) 41 84 31
nibbles. There is plenty for vegetarians on the menu 06, www.harambasa.si. Ćevapčići (che-VAP-chi-chi) - the
(not always the case in these parts). Q Open 09:00 - delicious Balkan staple of juicy barbequed lamb or beef - is
24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). served in abundance here. This ćevapnica (che-vap-nitsa,
PTJAGBK a cafe/restaurant serving ćevapčići) has a quaint and cosy
dining room, complete with old photos, antiques and a Bal-
Sushimama C/D-3, Wolfova 12/(+386) 40 70 20 70, kan soundtrack. Aside from the odd American, the clientele
www.sushimama.si. The first - and for a long time only is refreshingly local - and aside from the air-conditioning
- Japanese restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate you could easily be in a village in the Bosnian countryside.
Sushimama’s interesting little touches beyond the actual Located on quiet backstreet, Harambaša is a great place for
food include a subscription to Wallpaper magazine and the a beer, chat and, of course, lots of lovely ćevapčići. QOpen
brave act of putting the sushi chef on display as he works in 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (€5-8).
the restaurant. The extensive menu features every Japanese PTJUNBS
favourite from soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate
rice- and noodle-based dishes to of course the sushi itself. Sarajevo ‘84 C-3, Nazorjeva 12, tel. (00386) 1 425-
Complimented by an extensive list of cocktails and wines, 71-06, cevabdzinica@gmail.com, www.sarajevo84.com.
the restaurant is marking its territory as the first and finest One of Ljubljana’s more atmospheric Bosnian restaurants
of its kind. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€11-24). occupies the subterranean premises of a former jazz club
PJARGBXS and sports an interior somewhat reminiscent of a pub - walls
plastered with memorabilia from the 1984 Winter Olympics,
arched brick ceilings and old black and white Yugoslav tourist
Balkan videos playing on a projection screen. The menu only has
Gostilna Dubočica L/M-3, Zaloška 31, tel. (+386) two main dishes, so ordering comes down to which shape
1 542 37 77/(+386) 51 606 080, www.dubocica.si. you prefer your meat to take: sausages (ćevapčići) or a patty
Located in the Moste neighbourhood of Ljubljana a short (pljeskavica), both of which come with bread and diced onions.
walk, drive or bike ride east of the hospital, once you cross the QOpen 11:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 -
railway tracks it’s easy to think you’ve arrived in some quaint 00:00. (€3.90-4.80).TJA6UEBS
countryside village. The restaurant itself is housed in a more
than century-old house, and was one of the first places in
Ljubljana that served authentic home-cooked Serbian cuisine. Fish
Be sure to try at least one dish off the mouth-watering (and NEW
meat-heavy) House Specialities menu - you won’t be disap- Valmarin D-5, Gornji Trg 33, tel. (+386) 1 25 65
pointed. Q Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00, Fri & Sat 11:00- 199/(+386) 41 38 38 95, restavracija.valmarin@
01:00. (€5.50-13.20). PTAULGBSW gmail.com, www.valmarin.si. Venture into the oldest
part of the old town to discover what is arguably the best
Gostilna Gurman K-4, Cesta na Loko 28, tel. (+386) seafood restaurant in Ljubljana. There’s a lot to like about
1 283 88 33/(+386) 31 661 501, www.gurmanmomo. this charming family-run place, from the home-made bread
si. This is the place to head for authentic Serbian food in and olive oil to the excellent service and selection of wines
Trnovo. You’ll think you were in Belgrade with all the grilled from smaller Slovene vineyards. However, it’s the food that
meat they pile on your table - čevapi, pleskavica, pork medal- will have you recommending it to your friends the next day.
lions, chicken skewers - along with ample helpings of kajmak, Prizing quality, freshness and simplicity, ingredients are all
ajvar and šopska salata. The house specialities are great too, sourced from small local producers, and the seafood is
especially the steak negoš, which comes stuffed with bacon, supplied daily by the restaurant’s own two fishing boats
cheese and ham, and if you can’t decide what to order there in Koper. Definitely worth finding! Q Open Tues-Thurs
are several combination platters that will let you taste a bit 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00 and Sun 12:00-22:00.
of everything. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€5.50-12). Closed Mon. (€6-16). PJAB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Zaloška cesta 110 • 1000 Ljubljana • + 386 (0)1 54 00 166 • portalm@siol.net • www.portal-m.si

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Gostilnica Rio-Momo • Slovenska cesta 28 • 1000 Ljubljana • 00 386 (1) 425 32 26 • 00 386(1) 31 751 751 • www.riomomo.si

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Gostilna Dubočica • Zaloška cesta 31 • 1000 Ljubljana • 00 386 (0)1 542 37 77 • 00 386 (0)51 606 080 • www.dubocica.si

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Gostilna Gurman • Cesta na Loko 28 • 1000 Ljubljana • 00 386 (0)1 283 88 33 • 00 386 (0)31 661 501 • www.gurmanmomo.si
32 Restaurants

French Indian
Bon Appétit D-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 1 430 Namasté C/D-4, Breg 8, tel. (+386) 14 25 01 59,
80 80, bonappetit.ljubljana@yahoo.com. Since being www.restavracija-namaste.si. Lots of greens, oranges
opened by a Parisian émigré and his Polish wife several and golds and some nice exotic touches create a relaxing
years ago, Ljubljana’s premier French eatery has managed atmosphere inside a super restaurant specialising primarily
to remain somewhat hidden, tucked away beneath one of in dishes from Rajastan and the Punjab. Using the best spices
city’s best-known arthouse cinemas. Awash in deep reds and imported directly from India, the owners stress the fact that
dark wood, the restaurant exudes elegance and feels almost the dishes, both meat and vegetarian options are made
like a private club. The food itself is routinely excellent, and individually from mild to extra hot. By all accounts the food is
we’ve been assured by our French friends that it’s entirely excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21).
authentic and exceedingly popular amongst Ljubljana’s small PTJA6UGBXS
French community. The premises also double as one of the
city’s better wine bars, with well over 100 different bottles of
exclusively French wine (mostly imported directly from pro- International
ducers) available for purchase. Q Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 Argentino M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386) 1
and 19:00-22:00, and on Sat-Sun by special arrangement. 523 36 30, www.argentino.si. The journey out to BTC is
(€8.90 - 17.50). PTJA6LVSW well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experi-
enced to be believed. Huge, and based on a classic Argen-
tinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside,
Fruit juice the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up.
Juicebox C-3, Slovenska 38, tel. (+386) 51 645 Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors,
930, www.juicebox.si/index.html. An experimental a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen. Q Open
juice bar that mixes up glasses upon glasses of 100% Mon-Thur 08:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 08:00-24:00. Closed Sun.
fruit juices, soya milk, milk, yogurt and nuts. That’s enough (€5.20-45). PTAR6UILGBXS
to get anyone’s mouth water. Definitely, a pleasant place
for an invigorating start to the day or a mid day refresh- As C-3, Čopova 5A, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386) 1425 88
ment and you can bring your laptop along to make use of 22, www.gostilnaas.si. Exquisite presentation and service
its WiFi facility. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 8:00 - 15:00. mark the legendary As out as one of the most expensive
Closed Sun. GW dining experiences in the city. Brimming with antiques and
well-behaved waiters, sit amidst opulent detritus and feast
from a menu including more fancy dishes than you could eat
in a year including baked potatoes with caviar, lamb cutlet
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com with honey and truffles plus a battalion of fabulous desserts.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-31). PJAGB

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 33

Atrium H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 14 70 27 and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as bear meat
00, fax (+386) 14 70 27 08, info@hotel.mons.si, appearing from time to time. The only downside is the
www.hotel.mons.si. The menu at the flagship restaurant price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal
of the Mons Hotel and Congress Centre is a sublime mix with wine. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
of the traditional and the contemporary. Classic dishes
are brought to life with modern twists, such as the saddle Jurman N-3, Zaloška 151, tel. (+386) 51 358 358,
of lamb served with pears and polenta. The wine list is pizzeria.jurman@siol.net, www.jurman-sp.si. Located
one of the city’s best, and the forest setting perfect for on the outskirts of town, this popular family-friendly gos-
escaping the city centre heat. An absolute gem. Q Open tilna packs in the locals with a menu that seems to have
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €16. PTHULGKW a bit of everything and a somewhat kitschy atmosphere
that manages to include knights, a waterfall and an video
Cubo L-2, Šmartinska 55, tel. (+386) 15 21 15 15, arcade all under the same roof. The logo features a waiter
www.cubo-ljubljana.com. Cubo’s difficult location doesn’t sprinting hands full to someone’s table, and true enough
stop those foreigners and locals who appreciate good food the waiters are hurrying around making sure everyone
and atmosphere from turning up here in droves every day. is seen to quickly whether they are inside or out near
Taking the very best of the dining experience from décor to the children’s play area. It’s a good budget-conscious
service to of course the food, they’ve come up with a truly in- option and the food isn’t half-bad either. They’ve also
spiring place indeed. Opting for a minimalist approach with lots recently opened am adjacent bar that’s already quite
of dark woods and cool greys, the setting attracts everyone popular with the locals. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-12).
from business professionals to families who come to feast on PTAULVGBS
a regularly changing menu of dishes including many inspired
from Italy and the Mediterranean. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat Le Petit Café C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel.
12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€5-60). PAULGW (+386) 12 51 25 75. Already running one of the most
popular cafés in town, the owners of this French-themed coffee
JB D-1, Miklošičeva 17, tel. (+386) 14 33 13 58/ house recently decided to open a full-on restaurant on the
(+386) 14 74 72 19, info@jb-slo.com, www.jb-slo. same premises. The new spiral staircase in the back room
com. Firmly entrenched as one of the best restaurants now leads to cosy dining area with a bit more sophistication
in town, this fine dining experience comes courtesy of and better-dressed servers than the café downstairs. While
founder and head chef Janez Bratovž (hence the name). they get full marks for ambience (our only complaint would
Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more imposing secession- the noticeable lack of candles), the food has yet to truly
ist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix of well-to-do locals impress us. However, the prices are quite reasonable and
and visiting businessmen - guaranteeing you the chance there’s an excellent selection of Slovene wines, so all things
to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety of languages. considered we wouldn’t be surprised if it became one of our
The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal specialities future favourites. Q (€8-21). PJAGW

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


34 Restaurants

www.sanmartino.si
Heavenly good food
Authentic food
from Adriatic region

Weekly events:

CULINARY AFTERNOONS
Every Thursday, from 16:00 pm
Free canapes, free welcome drink!

BTC Ljubljana (by BTC tower), �martinska 152, 051 642 962

Lunch Café Marley & Me D-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. depending on what is in season or just especially fresh
(+386) 8 380 66 10/(+386) 40 564 188, info@ that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the
lunchcafe.net, www.lunchcafe.net. Acres of stripped day’s set menus you can also order à la carte, although
pine, friendly professional service and one of the best if you haven’t had a chance to brush up on your Slovene
kitchen smells in the city, despite the name this intimate you may need one of the attentive waiters to translate.
bistro-type restaurant is open for breakfast and dinner Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22).
as well and comes highly recommended. Standouts from PTJAGBXSW
the small yet varied menu include the large and tasty
salads, delicious pastas and some trul y memorable Polna Skleda H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386)
meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the place is 14 70 27 00, www.hotel.mons.si. The Polna Skleda
immensely popular, and waiting for a table during the day restaurant at the Mons hotel and congress centre is a
is a common occurrence. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (€3-19). buffet-style place (unique, we think, in Ljubljana) whereby
PJA6UGBXSW you can take your pick from a vast variety of goodies dis-
played on an impresive counter in the centre of the dining
Maxim C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1 476-69- room. The various offerings and dishes of the day change
82/(+386) 1 560-13-00, info@maxi.si, www.maxi. regularly and give you the opportunity to try out differnet
si. In the heart of the city centre this modern, business- cuisines. For something a bit different or for a casual lunch
orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes or dinner it can’t be too highly recommended. Q Open
including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, 07:00 - 22:00. €4,5 - €18. PTHAUGBK
seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a
huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete Pri Vitezu C/D-4, Breg 20, tel. (+386) 1426 60 58,
with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. www.privitezu.si. Exquisite restaurant, widely recognized as
Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike. one of the city’s best. Though expensive (and we mean expen-
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€40 and more). sive, you can spend a fortune here) it still offers great value
PJA6LEGBS for money to people for whom high class food is paramount.
We recommend everything on the menu, as well as the daily
Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 lunch menu which your waiter will recite to you. We especially
80, plato@siol.net, w w w.plato.si. Lo ca ted righ t like the Caesar Salad: slightly different to what you might be
in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most used to and all the better for it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed
recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office Sun. (€8-50). TJA6UGBXS
tower that takes some interesting architectural liber-
ties - this newer restaurant is something of an oasis Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 00, fax
above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only (+386) 1251 71 64, www.hotelslon.com. Officially one
menu is international with a focus on light and healthy of the best restaurants in the city (they have an award
Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily to prove it), the eatery at the Best Western Slon is well

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 35

worth your time. The central location, the delightfully sim- Kavalino E-3, Trubarjeva 52, tel. (+386) 1232 09 90,
ple – mainly Mediterranean - menu and the outstanding www.kavalino.si. Hidden in a sloping cobblestone al-
service all help to make it special. Try and bag one of the leyway between Trubarjeva and the river, this quaint Italian
tables overlooking the lounge: among the most sought- restaurant specializes in Tuscan food. The first thing you
after in the city.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. see upon entering is a tasteful dining area with an indoor
PTJHAULGKW tree in the corner that rises up to a skylight. Further back
there’s a smaller dining area under a vaulted brick ceiling, and
Smrekarjev Hram D-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1308 upstairs is a café. The service might not be the friendliest,
19 75, www.gh-union.si. Another of Ljubljana’s upscale but at least it’s efficient, and the varied and tasty lunch spe-
eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long cials are downright cheap. Definitely worth finding. QOpen
wine list, made up of exclusively local bottles with the sole 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6-18).
exception being French champagne for those particularly PTJA6GBXSW
special occasions. Make sure you leave room for a main
and a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish NEW
or meat dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose Little Italy F-1, Masarykova 17, tel. (+386) 70 222
liver sauce, finishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig 222, info@littleitaly.si. Set in the city centre just east
with vanilla ice-cream. The elegant interior of Smrekarjev of the train station, but tucked away behind a small green
Hram is offset by the funky multi-colored straw sculptures space, this pizza and pasta place delivers exactly what the
which add a touch of fun to somewhere with more than a name suggests: tasty Italian cuisine at reasonable prices.
touch of class. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€14-50). PT� The main dining area is light and airy, and the large terrace
JA6ULEGBSW out front is a lovely place to sit when the weather allows. It’s
especially popular with workers from nearby office buildings
come lunch time. QOpen 08:00 - 00:00. (€4.50-9). PT�
Italian JALVBS
Al Capone M-2, Šmartinska 152b, Citypark, BTC City,
tel. (+386) 1 541 00 61, fax (+386) 1 585 22 04, www. Ošterija Pri Oljki M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC, Cit-
al-capone.si. Despite taking its name from the notorious yPark)), tel. (+386) 1 541 00 63, www.oljka.si. Italy
American gangster, this Italian eatery is an entirely family- is only a few hours drive away from Slovenia but if you think
friendly spot to grab a bite. Located in the always bustling you’ll never make it there to try their famous trattorias and
food court at City Park, the pasta and pizza cafeteria does its you’d rather get the quick amusement park version, then you
best to affect a rustic feel with brick walls and aged wooden can head up to this tiny restaurant. It is nestled into a corner
chairs, and what it inevitably lacks in ambience it more between the kitschy Mexican restaurant and the over the top
than makes up for with large portions of tasty fare. QOpen Chinese place and features a wide range of pastas as well
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€6-10). as regular daily specials. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00, Sat 10:00 -
PTALGSW 02:00. (€6.30-20). PTA6ULEGBSW

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


36 Restaurants
popular dishes finding a home on the permanent menu - the
recent Days of Karst Cuisine has contributed a traditional
risotto using Jamar sir (a cheese aged in caves) for example.
Upcoming specials this spring will include several weeks of
young horse steaks, followed by a month of asparagus, and
the entire menu is naturally complimented by an excellent
wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00. (€7-19). PTJA6UEGBSW

Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1 423 24 23,


azur@telemach.net, www.azur-tratorija.si. A Ljubljana
institution since 1994, Azur recently underwent some
noticeable changes. Gone is the trademark bright orange
façade, which has been replaced with more muted tones and
reflects a generally improved level of quality and sophistica-
tion, and an expansive wine list, full multi-course daily lunch
specials and a more professional staff all cater to the busi-
ness crowd that keeps the placing buzzing during the day.
Of course the award-winning pizza has remained unchanged,
and the location still makes for a convenient stop on a trip
to or from the nearby zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (€4.90-14.90). PTAULGBS

Zajčja Dobrava Novo Polje III/27, tel. (+386) 1 54 74


806, rezervacije@zajcja-dobrava.com. Resembling some
kind of alpine hacienda placed amongst meadows and forests
a short drive east of the city centre, this year-old Mediter-
ranean restaurant has already developed a loyal following and
seems destined to become a favourite of city folk who truly
appreciate quality food, service and atmosphere, but don’t
have the time to drive to the coast. It’s also the definition of
‘family-friendly’ with multiple children’s play areas and even
the possibility to go horseback riding next door. To get there
turn left at the unmissable Virgin Mary Church in Polje and then
right on Novo Polje Cesta after the train underpass. QOpen
San Martino M-2, BTC City, tel. (+386) 1 585 22 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-20). TA6ILB
70, fax (+386) 1 585 22 04, info@teman.si, www.
sanmartino.si. A shockingly good looking restaurant on
the edge of the sprawling BTC Center. The restaurant has a Mexican
hip and stylish staff, two terraces for outside eating, a large Cantina Mexicana C-3, Wolfova 4, Knafljev prehod,
dining room, and a white leather sofa’d room in the middle tel. (+386) 1426 93 25, kantina.meksikana@gmail.
for relaxing and sipping on coffee or wine. Oh and the food? com, www.cantina-mexicana-restaurantes.si. Fun on
Italian trattoria pastas and pizzas. If you’re in the mall and two floors in one of the city’s most popular courtyards,
absolutely famished, escape the food courts and come di- Cantina Mexicana is positively aglow with bright colours,
rectly here for a proper meal. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed strange sculptures, grass growing on the ceiling and some
Sat, Sun. (€4.80-15). PTAULGBXSW nice lighting tricks behind the long ground-floor bar. The food
is classic Tex-Mex as you’d expect, and appears to be fairly
Trattoria Katrca J-3, Rožna Dolina I/26a, tel. (+386) popular. If nothing else, this is one of the quirkiest and silliest
1 422 88 40, www.katrca.si. Specialising in Tuscan places in the city centre and even if you’re not hungry is well
cuisine, this century-old inn has a menu that puts most worth a visit for a drink or two. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
of its competition to shame. Going well beyond the run- 09:00 - 03:00. (€4,90-16,90). PTJA6GBSW
of-the-mill noodle and sauce offerings, this is the place to
tuck into some truly fantastic creations, such as pasta Joe Pena’s C-3, Cankarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 1 421 58
with prawns, bacon and chilli pepper or truffle and honey 00, bienvenido@joepenas.si, www.joepenas.si. A com-
risotto. The meat dishes are also a cut above most, with bined cantina and cocktail bar with a fine garden to boot,
horse, turkey and wild boar taking centre stage. The re- they’ve got it just right, from the general scruffiness of the
cently renovated premises also include several spacious place through to the smell of limes and cumin that hits you
and well-equipped rooms upstairs (singles €65, doubles as you open the door. The food’s pretty good, being the
€85). Q Open 07:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (€6.50-27). standard Mexican dishes as found throughout the world
PALG including fajitas, enchiladas et al, plus there’s a decent menu
of vegetarian options to keep everyone happy. One of the
best atmospheres in the city that’s guaranteed to please all
Mediterranean but the fussiest of patrons. Highly recommended. QOpen
NEW 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
Allegria C-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1 426 74 02, (€3-14). PTJA6GBSW
info@allegria.si, www.allegria.si. Tucked away in a court-
yard behind a large terrace, this long-running Ljubljana eatery
has recently shifted the focus of its menu to the Mediterra- Many more restaurants online at
nean, with an extra emphasis on Slovenia’s coastal regions. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Seasonal specials are regularly offered, with the most

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 37

Pizza
Foculus C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1 421 92 95,
foculus@siol.net, www.foculus.com. Magnificently deco-
rated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic
doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and
red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large
wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises
in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight
with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The place
can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if
you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently
named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS

NEW
Pizzeria Osmica C-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 14 26
58 72, www.osmica.si, info@osmica.si. Located on the
narrow pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica
is essentially the pizza and salad annex of the longer-running
Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. An impressive-
looking menu of twenty salads and perhaps twice as many
pizzas are on offer in a comfortable faux-rustic setting - think
lots of wood and stone with an open kitchen. We stop by for
lunch quite a bit, and have yet to be disappointed. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€4.70-
7.80). PTJA6UBSW

Parma B/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1426 82


22, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. A quirky little one,
this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here
is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and
served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you
go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a
look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction
of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the
stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€4-6). Quick Eats
TJA6ULGBXSW NEW
Apetit C-4, Rimska 2. Just around the corner from,
Trta D-5, Grudnovo Nabrežje 21, tel. (+386) 1 426 50 and run by the same folks as, the ever-popular café Le
66, trta@s5.net, www.trta.si. Trta is the most frequently Petit, the similarly called Apetit prepares a huge variety
heard answer to the question: Who makes the best pizza in of healthy sandwich, salads, wraps and pastries to take
Ljubljana? - and not without good reason. Its wood-fired oven away. They also do great smoothies. Q Open 08:00 -
churns out some truly delectable pies, which tend to be a bit 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2.50-7). JAS
more substantial than most of the thin-crusted competition.
Our personal favourite is probably the Toskanska, with rocket NEW
and pancetta among other toppings, but with over 40 differ- Burger King M-2, Šmartinska 152 (Citypark), tel.
ent pizzas crowding onto the menu you won’t be left wanting (+386) 1 520 01 47. After being more or less raised
for choices. Located in a yellow house along the right bank a on fast food in the US, we consider ourselves something
short walk south of the city centre, Trta comes highly recom- of an expert on the subject, and as such we can say un-
mended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed equivocally that Burger King easily comes out ahead when
Sun. PAGBS compared to any other internationally known burger joint
(not naming any names of course). If you don’t believe us,
head to the food court on the first floor of CityPark and try
a Whopper for yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 -
21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€3-6). PTAULGS

NEW
Gušt D-2, Pražakova 8, tel. (+386) 51 35 22 22/
(+386) 70 44 44 47, www.gust.si. A long time pro-
vider of sandwiches to various bars and cafés around
the country, Gušt now has a couple of its own outlets in
Ljubljana. Gourmet sandwiches, melts, wraps, soups and
salads come in just about every variety imaginable, and
you can even order online and have them deliver within
the city centre from 08:00-16:00 on weekdays (minimum
order of €6 required). A second location at Slovenska 6
is open till 20:00. Q Open 06:30 - 17:00. (€1.40-3.80).
PJAS

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


38 Restaurants

Hot Horse B-2, Tivoli Park kiosk, tel. (+386) 15 Gostilna na Gradu D-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. (+386)
21 14 27, master@hot-horse.si, w w w.hot-horse. 8 205 19 30/(+386) 31 523 760, www.nagradu.si. After
si. Eating horses may horrify most British visitors, but months of preparation, the long-awaited restaurant at Ljubljana
that’s only because they’ve watched too much Mr Ed Castle finally opened in September. Decidedly upmarket in
and have never tried it. It’s low in fat, rich in proteins appearance and service, the prices are surprisingly modest -
and easy to digest - so swap your steed for a car and especially given the truly unique location and dining experience
get grilling. Hot Horse ser ves h eal thy horseburgers that goes along with it. Na Gradu’s award-winning chefs pride
from a small kiosk in Tivoli Park and just outside BTC. themselves on the expert preparation of Slovenia’s diverse
QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Mon 10:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). range of traditional dishes, which have been developed over
J6UBXS the centuries in the country’s 24 separate gastronomic regions,
with nearly all of the ingredients being locally produced. QOpen
Opcija E-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 6, tel. (+386) 1 09:00 - 24:00. (€5-12). PTJALB
620 92 57, www.opcija.si. In a break from traditional
train station fare, Opcija offers a staggering selection of NEW
freshly made sandwiches and salads at fairly reasonable Gostilnica Rimska XXI B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 1
prices. They also deliver Mon-Fri from 10:00-18:00 on 256 56 54, zmauc@siol.net. Only opened in January, this
orders over €8. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00. (€2.5-3). promising Slovene eatery was still putting the finishing touches
on its permanent menu as we went to print, but we like what
we’ve seen so far: low arched ceilings, moody red walls and a
Slovenian touch of rustic furnishings. The kitchen turns out simple and
Figovec C-2, Gosposvetska 1, tel. (+386) 1 426 44 fresh homemade Slovene cuisine, and features specialities
10, gostilna.figovec@siol.net, www.figovec.si. White such as deer, fish and wood-baked meat dishes. QOpen 11:00
tablecloths, heaps of quality Slovenian wine and a pleasing - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PJAI
mix of bits and bobs on the walls including old farming im-
plements, joints of meat and a television blaring out MTV Mencigar Nobile F-4, Zarnikova 3, tel. (+386) 1 439
cut this one out from the humdrum mainstream gostilna 70 40, www.mencigar-nobile.com. Across the road from
scene. Popular with both locals and foreigners alike, this St Joseph’s Church, Mencigor Nobile is a wonderfully unpre-
really rather pleasing place dishes up above-par nosh such tentious restaurant specialising in traditional food from the
as horseflesh prosciutto and horseflesh beefsteak, along- Prekmurje region of northeast Slovenia. The three dining areas,
side such amusing concoctions as ‘yang pig baked in oven’ known as the Glažar, Janc and Goričko rooms are decorated
and mushroom turkey. Joking aside, what this place loses with classic folk motifs and cooking utensils and are, as are the
in translation it more than makes up for in the kitchen. Q clientele that frequent them, as a diverse as it gets. A popular
Open 09:00-24:00, Sat & Sun 12:00-16:00. (€5.50-28).
PTJA6UGBXSW
Burek
Gostilna na Brinju K-1, Vodovodna 44, tel. (+386)
1 565 94 90, fax (+386) 1 565 94 95. One of the Nobel Burek D-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. (+386) 12 32
capital’s best known traditional Slovene restaurants, little 33 92. A small kiosk close to the train and bus stations
has changed at this Ljubljana mainstay for well over half a churning out steaming hot burek as well as pizza for those
century. Now in the third generation of the Marinčič family, who like to do their fine dining in the street. Excellent value,
Brinje has managed to maintain the air of an unassuming excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs. (€1-2). J6UXS
neighbourhood diner despite its popularity and clientele
(many of the country’s top power-brokers are regulars). Olimpija D-2, Slovenska 58. Not one of our personal
Of course it helps to have had the same furniture for favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about outside
50 years and the same cook for almost as long. The around the clock we’re in the minority. It was also the runaway
menu is quite extensive and changes seasonally, but winner of our online poll. The servings are huge and always
year-round the house specialty remains obscenely large hot, with four varieties of pie to choose from: cheese, meat,
portions of high quality meat, followed by Solnograški apple and pizza - the latter being the overwhelming favourite
žličniki - a one-of-a-kind dessert invented by the family among customers. Just around the corner from Bavarski
matron. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€7-18). Dvor. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €2. JNXS
PTA6UILBX

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants 39

place for coffee and a break with teenagers and workers during tion. Lots of exposed wood and worn floors give the place a
the day, the evenings see a slightly classier crowd descending charming rustic feel, and the service is excellent (if not over-
for the excellent, good value food and occasional folk-related whelmingly fast during peak hours). A lengthy tapas menu is
nights of entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - complimented by an equally extensive wine list, and the daily
22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-21). PTAGB three-course lunch special should keep you busy for a good
hour and a half for less than €10. Check their website for de-
Pri Škofu C-5, Rečna 8, tel. (+386) 14 26 45 08, tails about upcoming Flamenco shows, which are usually held
priskofu@volja.net. Hidden down a small side street in every couple of weeks.  QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€4-23).
Krakovo, Pri Škofu is a long-time favourite of cash-strapped
university students who still like to enjoy a proper meal from
time to time, and you’re virtually guaranteed to see at least Vegetarian
a couple bespectacled hipsters seated at a table nearby. Ajdovo Zrno D-3, Trubarjeva 7, ajdovo.zrno@gmail.
The €8 lunch specials come in obscenely large portions and com, www.satwa.si/. This popular vegetarian café is
are one of the best values in town. Although there’s no menu tucked away in a cute little courtyard just off Trubarjeva,
it’s also possible to order à la carte, and an English-speaking a busy pedestrian street. Colourful is the first word that
waitress will gladly rattle off what’s available QOpen 07:00 - springs to mind when you enter, with bright walls and table
23:00. (€5-20). PJA cloths decorating the dining room and outdoor terrace.
Food-wise there are loads of choices: everything from soups,
Vodnikov Hram D/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. (+386) sandwiches, tortillas and even lasagne to fresh fruits and
12 34 52 60, www.vodnikov-hram.si. Named after juices, cakes, milkshakes and smoothies. It’s all served ‘pick
Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first and mix’ style from a canteen with every kind of vegetable
Slovene poets and journalists and also lends his name to you can imagine - and probably even some you can’t. QOpen
the adjacent square, it’s one of the better known places 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2-6). PJABS
to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana. Dining
under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experi- NEW
ence, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace Loving Hut B-4, Aškerečeva Cesta, www.lovinghut.com.
while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry The world’s fastest growing (and perhaps only) international
you up to the castle. Q Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - vegan fast food chain, Ljubljana recently got its own Loving Hut
24:00. (€5-28). PTA6ULGSW express stand just down the street from the Social Sciences Fac-
ulty on Aškerčeva. Operating under the motto ‘Be veg, go green, 2
save the planet!’, it’s not only a healthier option compared to most
Spanish of the standard fast food options, but is also reasonable priced.
Don Felipe E-4, Streliška 22, tel. (+386) 14 34 38 We still haven’t tried one (and quite frankly don’t understand
62, www.donfelipe.net. Ljubljana’s only proper Spanish the point), but the veggie kebaps come highly recommended.
restaurant would likely stand out even if had some competi- QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. (€1.50-5.50). JS

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


40 CAFÉS
Café Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 230 84
80, plato@siol.net, www.plato.si. A stylish café offering
a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts
in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town,
its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people
watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant
upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you
may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. for restaurant from monday
till friday 11:00-17:00 saturday and sundar closed (€2-3).
PTJA6GBKXSW

Cha (Čajna Hiša) D-4, Stari Trg 3, tel. (+386) 12 52 70


10, cha@siol.net, www.cha.si. When it’s all just to much,
it’s tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s
exactly what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the
world hurry by, while you much around with teabags. There’s
a choice of black, green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic
tastes well catered to. The classy porcelain crockery adds
to the special feel of the place. An on-site shop sells the dry
version too. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed
Sun. TJA6UGBSW

Coffe Project D-3, Mali Trg 1. Hidden behind the


popular stretch of Trubarjeva, this tiny and ver y new
coffee shop has big ambitions. It serves Turkish brewed
for the discerning coffee drinkers and in the beer depart-
ment it has the distinction of offering not only the two
ubiquitous and watered-down national beers but also a
selection of homemade ones. Ask a local to guide you
there and they just might join you in something new.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
PJ6ULEGBXW
There’s no better place to be on a sunny day in Ljubljana
Čolnarna A-3, Tivoli Park (near the Ribnik, lake), tel.
Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favour- (+386) 12 51 11 60, fortuna.fortuna@siol.net, www.
ite things about the city. When the weather’s nice the en- colnarna.com. Once upon a time this old café sold the
tire old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés best homemade cakes and sweets in town in the most
that line nearly every street. During the colder months beautiful setting around, but it is now 120 years in, and
things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking we all know age can make it hard to keep up. These days
ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside while the surroundings are still quite lovely, the cakes
huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on are not bad and ice creams are delivered in a truck.
coffee’s significant other. The most popular places can be Nonetheless, it merits a stop for a cake, a coffee, and
found along the Ljubljanica on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and a peaceful moment in the park. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, but with so TJ6UGBXS
many options to choose from just wandering around until
you find a place you fancy is never a bad option. Drago F Tinta D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 27. Named
after the late Slovene-Chilean author, the cultural creden-
tials of this riverside café are beyond reproach. In addition
Symbol key to bi-monthly art exhibitions and Saturday morning book
readings, there’s also an informal ‘leave one, take one’
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted book exchange boasting a more diverse selection of English
language titles than most of the city’s bookshops. Throw in
E Live music S Take away the high ceilings, comfortable bench-style seating, free Wi-Fi
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled and laid back soundtrack and this place seems destined to
become a favourite amongst the university hipster crowd.
R Internet L Guarded parking PJBSW
O Casino J Old Town location
Dulcis Caffe M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386)
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi 1 585 22 56/(00386) 1 585 50 18, info@dulcis.
B Outside seating V Home delivery si, www.dulcis.si. Located at the market (Tržnica) in
the BTC shopping complex and styled after a classic
French patisserie, Dulcis prepares some of the most
Čez Cesto D-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 12, tel. (+386) 1470 delectable traditional sweets and home-baked goods
47 07. Smack bang next to the cathedral, this unpretentious around. One of their specialities is a cake made with
spot, clearly pandering to the trade from the local market, apricots, herbs and aromatic cinnamon, which they claim
rarely hears an English voice, making it well worth more in- is an aphrodisiac. It’s definitely worth a stopping by if
vestigation. Find a small selection of beers, wine and spirits you find the need to satisfy your sweet tooth while out
and the most extraordinary white chandelier. QOpen 07:00 for a day of shopping. Q Open 06:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
- 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TJAUGS PTA6LVBSW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Cankarjevo nabrežje, Ljubljana

Petkovškovo nabrežje 67, Ljubljana

Le petit cafe & restaurant


Trg francoske revolucije 4
Ljubljana

Rimska ulica 2, Ljubljana


42 cafÉs

Grajska Kavarna D-4, Ljubljanski grad (Ljubljana Cas- the old Rog bicycle factory, the café is one of the few places in
tle), tel. (+386) 14 39 41 40, www.grajska-kavarna. town where you can find a proper breakfast, and the lengthy
si. Swanky, cool and chic in equal measures, Ljubljana menu of gourmet soups, sandwiches, salads and desserts (not
Castle’s very own café is housed inside a dismal-looking to mention wines) makes it a popular lunchtime stop. It stays
1980s concrete monstrosity well overdue for a facelift. open late as well, and the dark and moody modern interior is
Retaining much of its original communist-era look, the perhaps best suited for a drink than anything else. Q (€3-9).
interior is fun if you’re in the area, and is a good place
to stock up on fruit juice, wine, coffee, beer, sandwiches Kavarna Tromostovje D-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel.
and a Harry Potter ice cream. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00. (+386) 1430 12 18, www.kavarna-tromostovje.si. Here
PTJA6GBSW near Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), alongside
the river, you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.
KavaČaj Slamič C-2, Kersnikova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 This open-air café is blessed with perhaps the best loca-
82 33, www.slamic.si. Translating simply as CoffeeTea, the tion in the city and as such it seems to always be full with
hugely popular café inside the Slamič B&B serves excellent locals and tourists sitting with a coffee, enjoying great ice
coffee and a wide range of teas as well as cakes and puddings cream, soaking up local color, and sometimes even watching
in abundance. As well as the nice ground floor venue there’s a daytime concert on the square. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.
a larger area upstairs and an all-year terrace.1,20e QOpen TJ6UENBXSW
07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
PTJA6UGBSW Le Petit Café & Restaurant C-4, Trg Francoske
Revolucije 4, tel. (+386) 12 51 25 75/(00386) 51
Kavarna Maček D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 14 25 37 605-400, info@lepetit.si, www.lepetit.si. On a leafy
91, macek@lj-kabel.net, www.macek-lj.si. Reassuringly yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals and clued-up
scruffy after so many good-looking places in the area, gurgle visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian without
down some tea, coffee or something a little stronger in the even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to be this
safe confines of four bright orange walls decorated with place, and it is easy to see why. What’s more, it is not even
some nice black and white photographic portraits of both expensive: big omelets and tasty toasted sandwiches all
people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular with families come in at around €3.50. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PT�
toting young children during the weekends. QOpen 09:00 JA6UGBSW
- 00:30. TJA6UGBSW
NEW
NEW Lolita D-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 5
Kavarna Rog F-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 67. Just opened 901 62 99/(+386) 41 344 189, lolita@kaval-group.
at the end of last year, Kavarna Rog has already become one si, kaval-group.si. With absurdly high ceilings, exposed
of our favourite cafés around - and not only because it’s a 30 brick walls, great views through huge plate glass win-
second walk from our flat. Located along the Ljubljanica below dows and super comfortable seating, this newly opened

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


CAFÉS 43

riverside café leaves little to be desired - the place even glass floor, lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze. Too
smells great thanks to bouquets of fresh cut flowers at pretentious for some perhaps, but a charming place all
the entrance. Delectable-looking cakes are displayed in the same and certainly a place to meet some of the city’s
specially-built cases, and gourmet chocolates and teas more interesting characters. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. PT�
are also on sale. We didn’t think Ljubljana had room for any JA6UGBXSW
more cafés, but Lolita proved us wrong. Q Open Mon-Thur
08:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 08:00-23:00 and Sun 09:00-21:00. STA Travel Cafe C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 439
PJAGBX 16 90, fax (+386) 1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana.
com. There are a lot of pluses to this place despite the
Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386) 5 907 03 clinical sounding name. Set on a big terrace with a good
95, www.neboticnik.si. After being shuttered for nearly a view and lots of tables it offers free Internet for patrons.
decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the When all that virtual surfing results in hunger pangs you
public. Occupying the top floor of Ljubljana’s famed Nebotičnik can sate them with your choice from a wide range of
(or Skyscraper) building - which was the highest residential sandwiches. The TV is set to the travel channel so you
structure in Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s can look at where you’ve been, where you’re going or
360 degree views from Alps to the castle to the hills in the where you want to head off to next, and every second
south are truly breathtaking, and the coffee and cakes aren’t Wednesday you can attend the travel presentations and
bad either. This is a must see stop for all visitors. QOpen wash all the free information down with beer, wine, coffee,
08:00 - 03:00. tea or a soft drink. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
PJ6UGBXW
Pri Semaforju C-4, Slovenska 5, tel. (+386) 40 893
664. Translating as ‘by the traffic lights’, be welcomed in sev- Zvezda C-3, Wolfova 14, tel. (+386) 14 21 90 90,
eral different languages on the fascias on entry, then choose to kavarna.zvezda@siol.net. A bustling café frequented
sit either upstairs or downstairs depending on what takes your by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old
fancy. Lively, upbeat music provides a soundtrack for all man- ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your clas-
ner of pierced teenagers to sit around and plan revolutions sic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues
over a limited selection of coffee, freshly squeezed orange and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest
juice, spirits or beer. Scruffy and fun indeed. Don’t forget to café in town, your money is at least well spent. The cof-
leave your granny in the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed fee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes
Sat, Sun. TJ6UGBXSW are some of the best and stickiest in town. They also
have a second location on the ground floor of Hotel Slon.
SEM Kavarna F-2, Metelkova 2 (Ethnographic Mu- QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Slovenska 34
seum), tel. (+386) 13 00 87 00. A trendy, industrial-look open: 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. (€2,80-3). PT�
café attached to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a JAUGBSW

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


44 Nightlife
Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place
goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with
cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the
early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go
home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours
too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still
packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is
something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most
of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby.

Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city,
and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about
walking home on your own late at night.

Symbol key Bi-Ko-Fe C-4, Židovska Steza 2, tel. (+386) 14 25 93 93.


Situated on a sloping cobbled lane opposite the central uni-
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted veristy building, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters
E Live music S Take away (or at least the European equivalent), students, artists and
the like. The outside terrace is crowded from open till close
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled - thanks at least in part to the ban on smoking indoors - and
R Internet L Guarded parking the entire place gets packed most nights, with an atmosphere
more akin to a house party than a bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,
O Casino J Old Town location Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6UBXSW
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi
Compañeros C-2, Slovenska 51. A fixture of Ljubljana’s
B Outside seating V Home delivery nightlife scene for over a decade, other than the name the only
thing that has remained the same is its reputation for hosting
wild student parties. Upstairs there’s a covered outdoor terrace
Bars and atmospheric lounge area with lots of worn wood, arched
Atrium H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700, ceilings and burnt orange and brown walls. Downstairs is a
fax (+386) 147 02 708, info@hotel.mons.si, www.mons. recently opened club that takes full advantage of its location in
si. The elegant bar at the Mons hotel is a cocktail lovers the bowels of the Austro-Hungarian era building, and also includes
delight. There’s bar food too, as well as a cracking selection a smoking room. The music varies depending on the night with
of desserts. For an after-conference quick one it’s a must. live bands at least a few times per month. Recommended. Q
The difficult bit is not ending up staying the whole evening. Mon-Fri 11:00-05:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-03:00. Closed on Sun from
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PHLGKW 1 July to 15 August. PJAGBXS

Sample some of the speciality cocktails at best bar winner Hugo Barrera

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


nightlife 45

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


46 nightlife
Horse’s Pub Dunajska 227, tel. (+386) 1 568 48 46, evening, or for those who’ve never drunk absinthe and would
www.horsespub.info. Located quite a ways north of where like to give it a go. Q Open Mon-Wed 09:00-24:00, Thur-Sat
tourists tend to tread, Horse’s Pub is something of a Ljubljana 09:00-01:00. Closed Sun. JA6EGBXW
institution and one of the first places we went for a beer after
moving to the city way back when the tolar still existed. Despite Randevu D-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. 01/426 56 14, www.
the name, it fits squarely in the café/bar category, with a modern randevu.si, www.randevu.si. Yet another trendy café in
interior, fancy cocktails and a terrace you will likely have to queue an area already addled with them. This one, however, wins
for a table at during sunny spring and summer evenings. Buses points for its sprawling patio overlooking the river. They serve
6, 8 and 11 will all take you there from the city centre. QOpen a mix of hot and cold drinks, sandwiches, and a small array of
07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PALBX sweets which you can order if ever one of the dizzy and inat-
tentive waiters comes your way. Come by for a cocktail after
BEST OF 2011 the sun sets. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PYR6BXW
Hugo Barrera D-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 5, tel.
(+386) 40 177 477. Located along the river bank beneath Sputnik I-4, Tržaška 128, tel. (+386) 51 627 000, fax
Plečnik’s colonaded Centralna Tržnica arcade, this Latin (+386) 12 56 67 95, dobrodosli@sputnik.si, www.sput-
flavoured club is aimed at an older crowd, or at least those nik.si. Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro furniture
who can appreciate (and afford) a glass of quality single malt with lots of beautiful-looking people sitting on it, ice-cold beer
scotch from Ljubljana’s most extensive whisky collection. It’s and cocktails, a long, long bar and waitresses with even longer
also made a name for itself among Ljubljana’s late night scene legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik transforms itself during
with live music at the weekends. Stop by during the day for the evenings into a much buzzier place with occasional special
free Wi-Fi and one-of-a-kind coffee specially imported from events. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Fri 06:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 -
Brazil. Q Mon-Wed 07:30-02:00, Thur-Sat 07:30-03:00, 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PA6ULEGBXW
Sun 10:00-02:00. PJAEW
Žmauc B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 12 51 03 24. Ask any
Makalonca C/D-3, Hribarjevo Nabrežje 19, tel. (+386) tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re
40 42 71 67, www.makalonca.si. After several years hia- almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality
tus, and several months of renovations, Makalonca reopened graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-
in September 2009 with much fanfare - and deservedly so, looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the
as it occupies one of the coolest locations in the Ljubljana. entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A
Located below street level along the Hribar Quay, it offers a smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange
quieter, more relaxed atmosphere than can be found at the characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the
strip of bars and cafés on the Ljubljanica’s opposite bank (or pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a
at least on nights when they forego the electronic music). little stronger. Highly recommended. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.PJA6GB

Opera Bar C-3, Cankarjeva 12, tel. (+386) 14 21 03


90, www.opera-bar.com. A bright, large, colourful space Clubs
popular with many of the city’s more well-heeled residents, Cvetličarna L-2, Kranjčeva 20, tel. (+386) 590 26 316/
including those who like to attend the opera house across the (+386) 40 390 623, fax (+386) 590 26 317, info@cvetli-
street, Opera Bar is your classic café-bar. It brims with good- carna.info, www.cvetlicarna.info. More a concert hall than a
looking types drinking coffee during the day and something a club, nonetheless Cvetličarna is a good place to check out on
little stronger later on. The Australian-Slovenian ownwership Friday and Saturday nights. At other times it opens to host local
explains the huge Aborigine-style painted ceiling and walls. and foreign bands, often well-known international and regional
QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - acts, as well as stand up comedians, including many English
03:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PJHAEGBXS ones, on Mondays and some Tuesdays. The venue itself is big
and the atmosphere is usually great. Check their website or
Pri Zelenem Zajcu D-5, Rožna 3, www.prizelenemza- Facebook page for a schedule of upcoming events.
jcu.si. This is a good place to head to if you want to find a
small non-pretentious bar where the locals are friendly. Slowly BEST OF 2011
rotating disco lights and trance type music give the Rabbit a Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17 063,
bohemian feel and you can either head into the green gloom or drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com. As the main
grab a drink and perch yourself at one of the couple of outdoor concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally renowned
tables. Recommend for students or those who once were independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range
students and want to feel like one again, even if only for an of performances several times per week, including many well-
known acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The
state of the art sound system and acoustics make it a popular
venue for both performers and audiences, and from May till
October a summer stage and garden is also opened behind
the main venue, which can accommodate nearly 1000 people.
Check their website for a complete list of upcoming shows.

Klub K4 B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 1438 02 61, www.


klubk4.org. If you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and
your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the
night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Club K4.
A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and
the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country.
Brilliant stuff. Klub K4 also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the
gay community. Q Open Tue from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00,
The classic pub experience at Sir William’s Sun from 22:00. Mon closed. Admission €7. PJAG

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Rich Club
48 nightlife
Orto Bar E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16
74, www.orto-bar.com. A combined bar and live music Billiards, Bowling, etc.
venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious
world of rock music, filled nightly with a well-behaved crowd Biljardna Hiša C-1, Parmova 25, tel. (+386) 12
in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking 36 20 12, qb@siol.net, www.biljardna-hisa.com.
advantage of one of the few regular live music venues in Ljubljana’s most popular billiards place is a few minutes
the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long and thin, walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. Consisting of
there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving one large open space underneath exposed wood rafters
the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel. Q Open Mon-Wed the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty much
08:00-04:00, Thur-Sat 08:00-05:00 and Sun 18:00-21:00. exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s also a large
PALEGBX glass-enclosed self-service smoking area - although
unfortunately they have yet to cram any pool tables in
Rich Club I-4, Tržaška 118, tel. (+386) 41 826 there. You can expect at least a short wait for a table at
001, richclub.lj@gmail.com. Ljubljana’s newest club the weekends, so don’t forget to get your name on the
is located in the neighbourhood of Vič southwest of the list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. ALX
city centre, in an area that has become something of a
nightlife hotspot in recent years with several bars and clubs Klub 300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. (+386) 1 510 39
within walking distance. As it’s name implies, Rich Club 40, fax (+386) 1 510 39 41, info@bowlingklub300.
has a dress code, glossy interior and parking lot packed com, www.bowlingklub300.com. If it’s a good time you
with six-figure cars at the weekends. The music alternates need, Klub 300 is a friend indeed any day of the week.
between house, techno and current pop hits, with frequent Order a ‘žirafa’ for the group (a 3-litre long tube of bubbling
Balkan nights and special guest DJs thrown into the mix as local beer which allows you to pour your own draught) and
well. Q Open Mon-Thur 06:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 06:00-04:00, take on your friends or colleagues at the bowling alley, or
Sun 13:00-22:00. a game of pool. At the weekends there’s Cosmic Bowling
in the evening with well-known local DJs (reservations are
Ultra B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 51 210 000, info@ pretty much a must). The VIP room is especially suited for
ultra-club.si, www.ultra-club.si. One of the only proper business meetings who want to mix work with a bit of fun,
clubs located directly in the city centre, you’re almost guar- and there’s even an Italian restaurant downstairs.QOpen
anteed to find a party raging here until the wee hours most 14:00 - 24:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun
nights of the week. DJs, theme nights and live concerts 11:00 - 23:00. PALGK
from some of the region’s biggest stars are the norm here,
and scantily-clad Go-Go dancers are usually on hand to
liven up the atmosphere. A full assortment of drinks and
cocktails is a available, but for locals it’s perhaps even Zlati Zob E-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 59 13 95 52.
more popular to order vodka, whisky or other spirits by While Slovenia enjoys a new life in the EU and puts its Yugo-
the bottle. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. slavian days behind it, in Ljubljana you can still find echoes
PJAG of the many cultures that made up that old land, and at Zlati
Zob the city’s new “ethno-club” those echoes can take the
form of a singer’s wail or a throbbing balkan gypsy beat. The
cafe/club’s interior, full of Balkan artifacts and traditional
Wine Bars instruments hanging off the walls, hints at the raucous nights
of music and dancing that occur when the sun goes down and
BEST OF 2011 various regional artists and DJ entertain the crowd. QOpen
Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 51 12 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
57, guinnesspub@siol.net, www.dvornibar.net. This PALEGBXW
large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the
day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a
swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented
patrons, while the other side is a little more geared
towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100
varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample
local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of
Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings
are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15).
PTJHA6UEGBKXSW

Movia B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54


48, movia@siol.net, www.movia.si. The Slovenian
Movia vineyards have been producing quality plonk for
longer than anyone can remember, and this, their little
showcase wine bar in the old town, is a fine place to
come and try some of their excellent products. Found
slightly hidden away inside a little covered courtyard,
Movia is barely bigger than a telephone box, features
extremely friendly staff, and even serves a selection of
food especially prepared to compliment the wines on
offer. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. PYJ6UGBX
Live ethno music at Zlati Zob, photo by Vesna Turk

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


nightlife 49

of a society, not least to the basic atmosphere of the clas-


Jazz Clubs sic Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog
Mons Jazz Club G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall
1470 27 00, fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.mons. atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals,
si, www.mons.si. One of the city’s top jazz venues. Every expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite
month or so the Mons hotel hosts top quality jazz featuring Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus
some of Europe’s finest performers. If you live in town or are there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 10:00
a regular visitor, buy the season ticket” valid for all concerts - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (€5,50-7).
over the year. PAULGW PTJA6EGSW

Sax Pub B-4, Eipprova 7, tel. (+386) 1283 14 57. This Sir William’s Pub D-2, Tavčarjeva 8a, tel. (+386) 5
is what happens when an unruly youth inherits his great 99 44 825, sirwilliamspub@gmail.com. An all together
aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffiti-spattered classier affair than most other pubs in town, Sir William’s
nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans, but in Ljubljana clientele is largely a reflection of its location between the
there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly small bar features national courthouse and Radio Television Slovenia, as well
photographs of jazz greats on the walls and a clientele of people as several business hotels. Billed as a literary café, there’s a
who appreciate what Charles Mingus once referred to as black selection of English and Slovene language books to peruse or
classical music. Most of the time the music is pre-recorded, but exchange for, and a variety of events including book readings,
they do have the occasional live band in from time to time. Call wine tastings and cultural evenings. But of course it wouldn’t
to see what’s on. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, be a pub without beer and the selection is ample - with
Sun 16:00 - 22:00. JA6LEGBD some 30 in all including a half dozen on draught. Q Open
Mon-Fri 08:00-24:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 and 19:00-24:00,
Sun 17:00-24:00.
Pubs
Parlament Pub C-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1 251 32 BEST OF 2011
43. Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar Zlata Ladjica C/D-4, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. (+386) 12 41
oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and 06 96, info@zltim.si, www.zlataladjica.si. The ‘Golden
(you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for Ship’ has lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships,
the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and rigging, sails and a DJ booth inside a wooden barrel, the rum
cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and lively selection is surprisingly lacking in variety and there’s not a
international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to sailor in sight, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most
both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are Irish pubs any day of the week. As well as the main bar area
at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg. QOpen 06:00 there are also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate
- 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW moments, and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces.
There’s often €3 drink specials at the weekend - check the
Patrick’s Irish Pub D-3, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1230 signs outside for what’s on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun
17 68. Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric 10:00 - 22:00. PTJA6UEGBKXSW

Adult Entertainment
Escape E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74. On cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are not offered
the lowest level of the ever popular Orto, this club’s surroundings here, when the women are not dancing they are available
are consistent with the rock club atmosphere that is housed for some personal interaction. Q Open 22:00 - 04:00.
above it. There is a small stage for striptease, but lapdances PYJAEGBXSW
and personal attention are the real focus here with private
dances available at your table or in one of the back rooms. Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18),
QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admission €16. PJAG tel. (+386) 59 95 21 21, info@latino-club.com, www.
latino-nightclub.com. With unlimited free drinks included in
BEST OF 2011 the price of admission, Ljubljana’s best nightclub is a great
Hard Core Club G-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. (+386) 41 place to party in the company of girls from around the world.
71 66 12, info@hardcorecafe.si, www.hardcorecafe. As implied by the name, the majority of dancers are Dominican
si. With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in but there are also some Thai and Eastern European girls for
a taxi and head here. The concept is simple: outstanding the sake of variety. Every Friday there’s a special show, usually
erotic entertainment provided by prefessionals in a safe featuring a couple large snakes or girl-on-girl preformance,
environment for groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. and package deals are also available for groups. Located
Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate ‘lady drinks’, underneath the Arena Centre in BTC. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00.
there is always something worth watching on stage, and Admission is €20 on weekdays and €30 at the weekends,
entrance is free. Drinks are reasonably priced - even the which includes unlimited drinks. PALG
erotic ones - and the girls who perform here are on the whole
of a far higher phwoar category then elsewhere. QOpen Tanga J-1/2, Brnčičeva 13, info@tangaclub.com,
16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PJAG www.tangaclub.com. This club is quite a trek from the
center of town, along a lonely stretch of railroad track so
Klub Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 definitely bring a map. Once you get there, head upstairs
48, ecarte@siol.net. The most centrally-located adult from the bar café and find a neon-lighted multi-leveled space
entertainment club in town in the basement of popular Hotel with a wide selection of international ladies and a menu full
Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of girls, who of drinks and services. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Free admis-
you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly topless sion. PALG

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


50 Gay & Lesbian

Ljubljana was at the forefront of the gay and lesbian such as literature readings, concerts, theatre performances,
movement in Eastern Europe during the mid-1980s, and exhibitions, lectures, debates and workshops. Both clubs also
since then has maintained an active GLBT community host parties every Friday (and sometimes on Saturday) night
with many well-organised groups promoting gay rights and from around 20:00 till late.
culture. Last year marked the official 25th anniversary
of the movement in Slovenia, and saw some important
events, including the opening of the Q Cultural Centre in Resources
Metelkova. However, it would be a stretch to call Ljubljana SiQRD (Slovenian Queer Resources Directory)
a gay-friendly city - perhaps gay-ambivalent would be more , www.ljudmila.org/siqrd/. A comprehensive site for all
apropos - as incidents of discrimination and even outright things GLBT in Slovenia, with English listings for organisa-
violence are not unheard of. tions, events and venues as well as a concise historical
overview of the gay and lesbian movement (and homophobia)
in Slovenia.
Cafés
Café Open D-5, Hrenova 19, tel. (+386) 41 391 371, Slovenia for Gay Travelers Tel. (+386) 51 877
info@open.si, www.open.si/cafe-open/. Some places 245, sloveniaforgay travelers@yahoo.com, w w w.
try a little too hard to attract specific groups of people, but sloveniaforgaytravelers.com. As the name suggests,
this coffee shop isn’t one of them. A gay and lesbian owned these guys specialise in arranging gay-friendly tours and
café near the river in a quiet neighbourhood south of the old accommodation for visitors in Slovenia. Their English
town, it’s smallish multi-coloured interior is bright and airy, language website is immensely helpful and a good place
and there’s usually good music drifting out of the speakers to start if you’re interested in planning a trip or just finding
above. Three to four times per week it hosts cultural events out a bit more about gay culture in the country. A room
with round tables, including music, literature evenings, classes in Ljubljana’s only gay owned and operated guest house
and open mike. Check their website for details of upcoming (SOMI Rooms) can be booked directly from the website,
events. Q Open Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat 09:00-24:00, and they have also put together a comprehensive gay
Sun 09:00-22:00. guide to all of Slovenia - although outside of the capital
the pickings are rather slim.
Nightlife
K4 Roza C-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 14 38 02 61, Saunas & Massage
fax (+386) 14 38 03 01. On some Saturdays and Sundays, Gymnasivm Sauna K-1, Pohorskega Bataljona 34,
this popular gay-friendly club (pronounced ‘Kah Shteer-ee’ in tel. (+386) 15 34 24 85, gymnasium@volja.net, www.
Slovene) hosts gay and lesbian nights under its alternate klub-libero.si. Located in north Ljubljana not far from the ring
personality, Roza Klub - which is also an independent political road, Gymnasivm is a men’s only sauna and club occupying a
organisation and one of the driving forces behind the Gay and converted house in a mixed residential and industrial area. In
Lesbian Film Festival and Pride week. See our full review of addition to sauna and steam bath facilities, there is also a TV
K4 under clubs in the Nightlife section. Q Open Tue & Sun lounge, snack bar and fitness equipment available. Buses 6,
from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00. Mon closed. Closed during 8, 11 and 14 will all drop you within a short walk of the place,
July and August. and photos and more detailed info regarding house rules
can be found in English on their website. Q Mon-Thu 15:00-
Q Cultural Centre F-1, Masarykova 24 (Metelkova), 22:00, Fri & Sat 15:00-23:00, Sun closed. During summer
tel. (+386) 14 30 35 35, kulturnicenterq@gmail.com, 17:00-23:00 Mon-Sat.
http://www.kulturnicenterq.org/en/. Officially opened
on 24 April 2009, which was the 25th anniversary of the the Thai Sabai D-1, Dunajska 9a, tel. (+386) 31 31 00
gay rights movement in Slovenia, the centre has roots going 75, thaisabai.si.info@gmail.com, www.thaisabai.si.
all the way back to 1993. It’s a joint project of ŠKUC - one Gay-friendly Thai massage parlour just north of the city
of Slovenia’s largest arts and cultural organisations, and a centre - right next to the hideous Delo building. They provide
leading proponent of gay rights - and two long-running gay a variety of traditional massages at competitive prices, and
and lesbian clubs, Tiffany and Monokel, which are located on all their masseurs are certified by the Thai Ministry of Public
the same premises. The centre’s main focus is the promo- Health. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
tion of gay and lesbian culture, and it hosts regular events Sun. (€25-55).

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what to see 51

The newly redeveloped riverside area at Breg is already a popular spot with locals and tourists alike, photo by D. Wedam

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors


Tourist information to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to
Ljubljana‘s multitude of museums and galleries are more than
worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination
L jub lja na Touri st In f or m a t io n C e ntr e of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik‘s to the historic
(Turistični Informacijski Center) D-3, Adamič- atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-
Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, fax past burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in
(+386) 13 06 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www. harmony to create the most unique of cities.
visitljubljana.si. A small but extremely well equipped
resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English,
information about what‘s on in the city and a range of Bridges
information on what to see and do in the region. They Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) D-4. Another
also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after
should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars
Their website is one of the best we‘ve seen in Central of various sizes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps,
Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, others simply holding stone balls in the air.
informative staff too. Q Open October-May 08:00-
19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. Also at the bus Mesarski Most (Butcher’s Bridge) D-3. Connecting
and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open 08:00-22:00, the magnificent colonnaded Tržnica covered market with
Oct-May 10:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, the bridge
Closed) 22 Dec 2009-2 Jan 2010 Monday to Saturday had been part architect Jože Plečnik’s original plans in the
08:00-21:00. 1930s, but was never built due to the outbreak of World War
II. Finally opened in July 2010, the bridge remains somewhat
Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC) controversial due to it’s modern style (Plečnik had envisioned
C-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1 306 45 75, fax something of similar appearence to the adjecent market), as
(+386) 1 306 45 80, stic@visitljubljana.si, www. well as the grotesque sculptures by Slovene artist Jakov Brdar
visitljubljana.si. Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit that were commissioned to decorate the structure. Soon after
larger and usually less crowded than the main branch the bridge opened, it also became home to the endearing
located a few hundred metres away opposite Prešeren and decidely uncontroversial tradition of couples locking ‘love
Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, padlocks’ along the length of its steel wires.
brochures and general information for the entire country.
Tickets for most events in and around town can be pur- Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) D-3. Perhaps Ljubljana’s
chased, and the staff will gladly give you a run down of most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curi-
the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals ous merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a
are also available for only €5 per day, and are a great way medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges
to see more of the city. designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the
whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


52 what to see

Top 5 sights (other than the castle)


Franciscan Church Tivoli Park A-1/2.
( Fr a n č i š k a n s k i Tivoli is where the peo-
Samostan) B-3, ple of Ljubljana who
Prešernov Trg 4, tel. don’t leave the ci ty
(+386) 1242 93 00. spend the weekend.
Built in an instantly recog- Laid out in 1813 as
nisable, mildly swirly Ba- a place for the gen-
roque fashion, Ljubljana’s eral health and rec-
mid-16th-century Fran- reation of the city’s
ciscan Church dominates population, at some
Prešernov Trg like a big five square kilometres,
pink birthday cake. Part Ljubljana’s gargantuan
of a larger complex with bucolic lung - literally
an additional Franciscan Mansion-LTB-archive two streets west of
monastery, if you’re lucky the city centre - is so
enough to find the doors packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth
unlocked expect a few visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst
D.Silpa treats inside including rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics
Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world),
from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for contain- pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for
ing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best
those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available
architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place for rent from various points throughout the park during the
to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day. summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. bring the bike back.

M e s t n i Tr g ( To w n As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area,


Square) B-3, The centre Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights includ-
of medieval Ljubljana, the ing the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious
town’s main square was 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum
damaged in the 1511 earth- of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern
quake and subsequentl y reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the
rebuilt in Baroque style. The city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to
square houses the Town Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an
Hall, City Art Museum, the early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene
decorated 16th century Li- national identity.
chtenberg house and the
Souvan house with its Em- Zmajski Most
pire façade. (Dragon Bridge)
Kopitarjeva Ulica.
P r e š e r n o v Tr g Sin c e i t op en e d in
(Prešeren Square) 1901, Zmajski Most
D-3. Formally a meeting has b een locked in
place for several roads a fierce competition
in front of one of the wi th the castle and
old entrance gates to the conspicuously pink
the ci ty, and a public Franciscan Church for
square since Ljubljana‘s the title of Most Pho-
original defensive walls to graph e d Si gh t in
were torn down in the Ljubljana. At any given
middle of the 19th cen- moment during day-
tury, this is one of the light hours (and only
city‘s most impor tant slightly less frequently
landmarks. Named after at night) there is sure
Slovenia‘s national poet to be at least a person
France Prešeren (Ger- or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding
man, Franz Prescheren, either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn
1800-1849), it‘s both a the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no
popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we
the man after whom the square is named) and a site for snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten
concerts and events during the summer. The charming days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste
little public space is ringed by a number of interesting apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a
sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a
the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th- smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury
century flamboyance and site of the soon to be reopened is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it
Centromerkur department store. does amuse us whenever we walk past.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


what to see 53

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


54 what to see

Buildings Churches
Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) D-3/4, Mestni Trg 1. The As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts
15th century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages, a number of famous churches dating far back to
and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian
original medieval coat of arms on the building. Inside, you can architecture. Aside from during mass, most of the main
view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00.
hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office.
Q Guided tours €2. Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) D-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel.
(+386) 1231 06 84. With its classic twin towers and trade-
National University Library (Narodna in Univer- mark single, weather-worn green dome, the city‘s cathedral,
zitetna Knjižnica) C-4, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1 200 more properly known as St Nicholas‘ Church, encapsulates
11 88, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Known to locals by its Slovene everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too
acronym NUK, the library was originally established by Em- exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer
press Maria Theresa in 1774 and moved to its current Plečnik details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site
designed building in 1941. Aside from serving as one of the of a much earlier church, the cathedral‘s main structure and
country’s central educational and cultural institutions - contain- appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century.
ing some 2.6 million volumes -it’s also considered one of the Inside the Baroque masterpiece‘s pink shell is a cavalcade
prolific architect’s most monumental works, and is a must of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily
see for visitors to Ljubljana. Highlights include the somewhat detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that
schizophrenic brick and stone façade, the colonnaded central only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the
staircase and the massive main reading room. A planned ornate choir stalls and Robba‘s maginficent angels on the
expansion on nearby Zoisova Cesta has been in the works for main altar. Don‘t forget to check out the astonishing pair of
nearly 20 years, but has been plagued by a host of problems bronze doors on the western and southern sides. Dating
- most notably caused by the discovery of Roman ruins, which from 1996 and commissioned to celebrate John Paul II‘s
is a surprisingly common occurrence in and around the city. visit to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting six cardinals
in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history
Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) C-3, Štefanova 1. Believe it of the diocese of the city.
or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one
of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933. Or thodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) B-2,
The rooftop café and lounge has also finally reopened after Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built alongside the
being shuttered for nearly a decade - providing some of the southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the
best views in the city. city‘s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church
complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth
visiting during services, daily at 10:00.

Tours
Unique Slovenia Rakovnik 132, Medvode,
tel. (+386) 1 361 62 44/(+386) 31 519 336,
info@unique-slovenia.si, www.unique-slovenia.
si. As one of the world‘s most geographically di-
verse countries, Slovenia offers almost limitless
possibilities for would-be visitors - and no one is
better at arranging custom tours than the team at
Unique Slovenia. From the standard trips to Bled and
Ljubljana to wine tours and fly fishing to boat trips
Tivoli Mansion doesn’t only look nice, it’s also home to the and helicopter rides, they can arrange pretty much
International Centre for Graphic Arts, B. Gradnik anything you can think of and then some. Business
and VIP services are also one of their specialities,
Cemeteries with everything including limousines and private jets
available.
Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) L/M-2, Med
Hmeljniki 2, tel. (+386) 1420 17 00, www.zale.si. Built Turag4all Tel. (+386) 30 641 440, info@turag4all.
on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neigh- eu, www.turag4all.eu. The first travel agency in Slove-
bouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably nia that is specialised in accessible tourism for people
Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The with special needs, Turag4All (or the Tourist Agency
grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades for All) was organised by the Slovenian Association for
supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the Mental Health in cooperation with both the National
living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself Tourist Association and the Institute for Counselling,
are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments Promotion and Development of Accessible Tourism.
including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, Its aim is to contribute to the development of tourism
reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The for people with special needs by combining supply and
cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold demand for disabled-friendly tourists and creating a
and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place network of disabled-friendly tourist suppliers. QOpen
of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city.
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


what to see 55

Contemporary History Museum (Muzej Novejše


Zgodovine) B-1, Celovška 23, tel. (+386) 13 00 96
10, uprava@muzej-nz.si, www.muzej-nz.si. If you needed
a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it‘s here. This fascinating mu-
seum inside a wonderful 18th-century mansion presents the
history of Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI
until independence in 1991. Using a combination of well-
presented exhibits including old photographs, clothing and
household items the museum charts the often wobbly path
of the nation through and between the two world wars and
the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years.
The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous
combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist
work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991.
Q Open Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00, Thur 10:00-20:00. Closed
Mon. Admission €7/3.50.

NEW
Exhibition of Slovenian History D-4, Grajska Planota
1 (Ljubljana Castle), tel. (+386) 1 306 42 93, slovenska-
Preseren Statue is the most popular place to meet in zgodovina@ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad.
Ljubljana, photo courtesy of Ljubljana Tourism si. This beautifully presented exhibition takes visitors on a
whirlwind tour of Slovenia’s long and fascinating history, from
prehistoric times through independence and the present day.
Monuments The exhibition is divided into six historical time periods: prehis-
France Prešeren D-3. Slovenia‘s national poet France tory and the Romans, the Middle and early Modern Ages, the
Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his 19th century and WWI, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and WWII,
honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an Yugoslavia and finally independence and beyond. Located
interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a fo- across three floors within Ljubljana Castle, the exhibition show-
cal point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the cases original items, replicas, interactive content and various
large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and fun and informative multimedia presentations. It’s a must-see
sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a for tourists and another reason for locals to pay the castle a
small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts visit if they haven’t been in a while. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
from his writing around the base. Admission €4-8 for adults, €2-5 for children and €10-14 for
families when combined with other sites at the castle.
Puppet Theatre Clock D/E-3, Krekov Trg 2. Every hour
between 08:00 and 20:00, puppets pop out of the clock at Modern Gallery (Moderna Galerija) B-3, Tomšičeva
the top of the Ljubljana Puppet Theater building, accompanied 14, tel. (+386) 12 41 68 00, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si.
by music. First, Kobilica the horse shows up, followed by Following a lengthy renovation, the doors of Edvard Ravnikar‘s
Krpan, carrying a knife; when he raises it, the horse hurries Plečnik-inspired building have finally reopened to the public.
back inside with Krpan in pursuit - a scene taken from the Continuing on from where the National Gallery stops, the city‘s
puppet show that opened then new theatre in 1984. Krpan excellent Museum of Modern Art houses a fine collection of
has been chasing Kobilica around the clock and delighting Slovenian and international 20th-century art. Q Open Tues-
children since 1992. Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission €5 for
adults, €2.50 for students/pensioners. No admission fee first
Robba Fountain (Robbov Vodnjak) D-3, Mestni Trg. Sunday of every month.
One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely 1751
fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque sculp- National Galler y
tor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known as The (Narodna Galerija)
Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of Robba‘s B/C-2, Prešernova 24,
Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him to complete it tel. (+386) 1241 54 18,
essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for info@ng-slo.si, w w w.
Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, the ng-slo.si. Inside Czech
artist‘s masterpiece features three river gods, supposedly architect František Ed-
representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers. mund Škabrout‘s fabulous
late 19th-centur y neo-
Renaissance masterpiece
Museums & Galleries LTB-archive with an additional modern
City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) C-4, Gos- wing thrown on for good
poska 15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, info@mm-lj.si, www. measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in
mm-lj.si. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the
who know how to show people a good time, showcasing 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as
Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history. Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and
Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition
is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history. in the building focuses on European painting, and includes
Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian
costumes, old photographs and much more besides. Check painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th
out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions. century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
English-language guided tours Sun at 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission €7/3.50.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


56 what to see

Around Ljubljana

Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) Jamska 30, tel. Predjama Castle (Predjamski Grad) Jamska
(+386) 1 700 01 00, fax (+386) 1 700 01 30, info@ 30, Postojna, tel. (+386) 5 7000 100, fax (+386) 5
turizem-kras.si, www.postojnska-jama.si. The largest 7000 130, info@turizem-kras.si, www.postojnska-
cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all jama.si. Located some 10km north of Postojna is one
of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the of Europe’s finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Pred-
majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20 kilometres of jamski grad in Slovene), was built in Gothic style during
galleries have been found, of which barely a fraction are the 13th centur y. Perched under a natural archway
open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick
much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has
through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually
a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There impregnable.
are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside
the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have The castle’s most famous occupant was Erazem Lueger,
any difficulties. a knight who gained a reputation as a rather proficient
Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave robber baron. In 1483, Erazem fled to the castle after
was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly bringing abou t th e wrath of Hol y Roman Emperor
explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist Frederick II, who initiated a year-long siege. However,
attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among thanks to a secret cave underneath the castle, Erazem
the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and
that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when
such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself. he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoni-
Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and ously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on
stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which the toilette. In the years that followed, the castle was
can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down destroyed and rebuilt several times, before acquiring
here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the Renaissance style it has today.
the cave is a chilly 10 degrees Centigrade, so bring a jumper.
The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves
a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of as a museum. It has been completely restored, and
caves of this part of Europe. The olms can sometimes - among other sites visitors can see the beautifully fur-
though not always - be seen in some of the pools of water nished residential quarters, the chapel and of course
as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary
are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one cave below the castle, including the narrow 37m section
you should refrain from taking any photos. You will be well known as Erazem’s Passage. During July each summer
and truly told off if you do. the castle and its grounds also host one of the region’s
To get to Postojna, take any train or bus from Ljubljana largest medieval festi vals, known as the Erasmus
heading for the coast, and jump off at Postojna. For more Knight’s Tournament.Q Open every day in April 10:00-
information see the official website. Q During April daily 17:00, and in May & June 10:00-18:00. Admission for
tours begin at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00. During the castle €9 for adults, €7.20 for students, €5.40 for
May & June 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00 , 14:00, children; for the cave below the castle €8, €6.40 and
15:00, 16:00 and 17:00. Adults €22, Children €13.20, €4.80; and for a combination ticket €15.30, €12.20
Students €17.60. and €9.20.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


POSTOJNA CAVE

S LO V E N I A’ S W O R L D FA M O U S TO U R I S T AT T R AC T I O N

Postojna Cave is a 20 km labyrinth of


Graz H
Villach A
passages, galleries and chambers into which
Klagenfurt
Maribor experienced guides have accompanied more
Bled
Kranj Celje than 34 million visitors since 1818. Part of the
Udine
I
POSTOJNA
Nova
Ljubljana
SLO
visit through scenes of breathtaking beauty
Gorica CRO
Trieste Novo Zagreb
is done on the special cave train. Just 10
Koper mesto
Portorož kilometres from Postojna Cave stands one
Opatija Rijeka
of the most picturesque wonders of human
history: Predjama Castle. For more than 700
TWO MUST-SEE DESTINATIONS years it has perched proudly in its 123-metre
SO CLOSE TO EACH OTHER!
cliff: powerful, defiant and impregnable.

Postojnska jama d.d., Jamska cesta 30, 6230 Postojna, Slovenia


Tel.: +386 5 7000 100, E-mail: info@postojnska-jama.si

www.postojnska-jama.si
58 what to see
National Museum (Narodni Muzej) B-3, Prešernova
20, tel. (+386) 12 41 44 00, info@nms.si, www.narmuz- Ljubljana Castle
lj.si. Found lurking inside another of the city‘s fine, late
19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine Ljubljana Castle
painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this (Ljubljanski Grad)
is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1841. D-4, Grajska Planota
Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated 1, tel. (+386) 1 306
to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the 42 93, info-center@
usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a ljubljanskigrad.si,
large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework w w w.ljubljanski-
dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surround- grad.si. Perch ed
ing regions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admis- on top of Castle Hill
sion €3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month. (Grajska Planota) and
dominating the city
Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej) B-3, skyline to the south,
Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 12 41 09 40, www2.pms-lj.si. Ljubljana’s magnifi-
Attached to Ljubljana‘s National Museum, the Natural History cent castle stands
Museum isn‘t the best in the world by a long way but it does on the si te of sev-
offer an assortment of oddities to beat the rainy blues away or eral former defensive
to simply keep the children amused for a while. Among the many buildings in a hilly area
peculiar displays of shells, rocks and an almost complete set of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The
of mammoth bones, the human fish is perhaps the museum‘s current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary
strangest display. Known so for its pinky human flesh appear- 16th-century reconstruction work following the earth-
ance, the little proteus anguinus is a blind amphibian found quake of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike
exclusively in a relatively small area including parts of Slovenia, Kraków’s Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has
Italy, Croatia and Herzegovina. The gift shop features a handful served as both a royal residence and a military barracks
of fun things for the kids including small build-your-own dinosaur over the centuries.
kits. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission The current main points of interest for the visitor are the
€3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month. Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century
and raised a further 1.2m by the communists in 1982.
Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej) The tower’s Virtual Museum screens a 20-minute film in
F-2, Metelkova 2, tel. (+386) 13 00 87 00, www.etno- 3D, viewed with the aid of special glasses and a headset
muzej.si. The Slovene Ethnographic Museum (SEM) - a museum for an English translation, showing an interesting and
“about people, for people”, prides itself as being the link between informative history of the castle. On the same floor find
the past and the present, between our own and other cultures, a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up
between nature and civilisation. A central museum of ethnology, a some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated
museum of dialogue, open, active and hospitable with dedicated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door
public services. The museum is located in a new urban cultural at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the
centre of Ljubljana known as part of former military barracks of the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city.
Metelkova area, which have undergone complete restoration, and Underneath the tower and located down a small flight
in the future will form the centre of Ljubljana’s arts scene. Through of stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner
two permanent exhibitions, diverse annual temporary exhibitions of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Chapel
and other events - Slovene, European and non-European - SEM (Kapela sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled in
presents and reports on the traditional culture of Slovenia and the Baroque style, the chapel is interesting for its 15th-
other cultures of the world in creative and imaginative ways. century wall paintings and not a lot more. A new and
Find the entrance in the large square at the back of the building. beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50/2.50 History is now also open for visitors - see more info under
(adults/students). Museums & Galleries.
The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary
exhibitions, a café, restaurant and souvenir shop. It’s
Parks & Gardens also a popular place for local weddings, and during the
Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) L-4, Ižanska 15, summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular
tel. (+386) 14 27 12 80, www.botanicni-vrt.si. Nearly outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up
200 years old, this garden is part of the biology department from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet
of Ljubljana University and has 2 hectares of protected land- Theatre. Q Summer Hours (through 30.09):
scape, with over 4500 species of native and foreign plants. Castle & Funicular Railway 09:00-23:00 daily
Guided tours of groups over 15 people are possible for a small Info Centre, Viewing Tower, Virtual Museum & Exhibi-
fee and when booked 10 days in advance. Q Open 07:00- tion of Slovene History 09:00-21:00 daily
19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00. Admission free. Full Combination Ticket (Funicular, Slovene His-
tory Exhibition, Viewing Tower, Virtual Museums &
Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) I-3, Večna Pot 70, tel. temporary exhibitions) €6 for adults, €3 for children,
(+386) 12 44 21 88, www.zoo.si. A large complex with €14 for families
a good variety of native and foreign animals, the zoo makes Half Combination Ticket (excludes Funicular) €4 for
for an excellent day out with the kids. A pleasant 30 minute adults, €2 for children, €10 for families
walk through leafy residential neighbourhoods from the city Full Ticket + Guided Tour €8 for adults, €5 for children
centre or a short ride on bus 23. Guided night tours are Half Ticket + Guided Tour €6 for adults, €4 for children
available on Thursdays and Saturdays from 21:00-23:00. Q Funicular Ticket only (Return/One-way)
Open daily 09:00-17:00 in October, 09:00-16:00 in Novem- €3/1.50 for adults, €2/1.30 for children, €7.50/3.50
ber. Admission: €6/4.50/3.55/1 for adults/school-children/ for families.
pre-schoolers/pets, free for children under 2.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Shopping 59

One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you
can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s
streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street
stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number
of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river,
making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shop-
ping cities in Europe. The main shopping streets in the city
centre are Mestni and Stari Trg at the base of Castle Hill,
Trubarjeva, Wolfova Ulica and Miklošičeva on the opposite
bank. There are also plenty of stores in the grid of streets
between Slovenska Cesta and the river. If you like want a
mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple
of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor.
Besides an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a
number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a
water park and entertainment city.

Books
Mladinska Knjiga C-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1241
36 80, konzorcij@mk-trgovina.si, www.mladinska.com.
The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest book retailer, it has
by far the largest selection of English language books in the
country including a fairly impressive travel section. There’s
usually at least one table of heavily discounted tomes if you’d
like to pick up something cheap to read and aren’t too picky.
They also operate smaller shops on seemingly every other
street in Ljubljana, which mostly stock stationery supplies.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Department Stores
Maxi Market C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 14 76
68 74, info@maxi.si, www.maxi.si. The quintessential
Yugoslavian shopping centre experience, dating from 1971
and brought slightly up to date but still retaining most of its
original exterior charm. Maxi Market is perhaps the best
one-stop-shop experience in the city centre. As well as a
fairly good selection of clothes shops, it also has a number
of other shopping surprises as well as a handful of interesting
bars and cafés. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.

Tax free shopping


If you’re a resident of a non-EU
member state, you’re eligible to
take advantage of tax free shopping
while visiting Slovenia. If you spend
over €50 at any shop displaying the
Global Refund ‘Tax Free’ logo, they
can issue you with a special Refund
Cheque when you pay. At shops that
don’t officially participate in the program, you’ll need to
ask for a special invoice for foreigners - you can still get
the refund, it just involves a little more red tape. When you
leave the EU just show the item you purchased and relevant
paperwork to a customs official, who will give you the nec-
essary stamps. You can then receive cash or credit at any
of the many Global Refund Offices around the world - at
Ljubljana’s Brnik airport this is located at the news agents in
the check-in area. However, before making any extravagant
purchases assuming you’ll receive a 20% discount, make
sure to double-check your departure info, especially if you
have a layover in another EU country on your way home.
Not all customs offices are open 24 hours, so depending
on the time and length of your layover, it may be next to
impossible to get the official stamps you need.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


60 Shopping
Kipling C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12 51 10 10, bags.
si. Fine, mainly leather, goods (luggage, handbags, purses)
for ladies who lunch. Besides the headline leather there are
also big print bags, which, as its summer in Slovenia, feature
something of a nautical theme. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
Midas C-2/3, Ajdovščina 3, tel. (+386) 13 00 46 00, 09:00 - 13:00.
info@midas.si, www.midas.si. When Midas opened in La Perla Studio D-2, Miklošičeva 7a, tel. (+386) 1 434
October 2007 Ljubljana let out a sigh of relief. Finally the 00 60, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. La Perla’s Spring/
top international brands were available in Slovenia. Now you Summer 2011 line remains focussed on feminine attractive-
can find the latest collections from houses such as Giorgio ness and form, and is created from the most elegant and
Armani, Blumarine and Givenchy to the more fashion collec- subtle materials. The new Limited Edition Collection features
tions of Marc by Marc Jacobs, McQ by Alexander McQueen the combination of satin and lace, while the Couture Shape
and See by Chloe. In Midas you can fully immerse yourself in Collection was made in collaboration with Invisto - a leading
your favorite brand from underwear, clothes, shoes, bags, ac- producer of advanced fibres and Lycra. A range of styles and
cessories, sunglasses and perfumes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, colours makes La Perla lingerie an ideal gift for that special
Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (and pampered!) lady in your life. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat
Nama C-3, Tomšičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1425 83 00, info@ 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
nama.si, www.nama.si. Just southwest of the Slon hotel, Mandarina Duck C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12 51
this well established department store provides several floors 10 10, bags.si. Exquisite handbags and leather goods for
of clothing for men and women, plus household items and the glitterati. Look out for the trademark wooden ducks in the
somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. window: alas they are not for sale. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Closed Sun. Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Marella C-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 1 426 92 44,
info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Marella has a fun, youthful
Fashion feel that makes it a comparatively relaxed environment in
Ljubljana is home to a selection of renowned international which to outfit yourself with the latest high-end clothing. The
brands, unique boutiques and its very own Slovenian- brand was conceived in 1973 to offer fashionable, top quality
made designer clothing, so you shouldn’t have any trouble clothing at affordable prices. This tradition has continued, and
finding something surprisingly original. Marella’s beautifully designed clothing is within the financial
reach of the discerning, professional ‘everywoman’. The new
NEW Spring/Summer 2011 collection features lots of shiny fabrics
AND Camicie C-2, Gosposvetska 6, tel. (+386) 1 43 with polka dots and stripes, graphic and romantic patterns,
07 740, info@andcamicie.si, www.and.it. The well-known and a mixture of white and flowery prints. QOpen 09:00 -
Italian manufacturer of designer men’s and women’s shirts 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
has finally come to Slovenia - with a store opening earlier this Marina Rinaldi D-2, Dalmatinova 11b, tel. (+386) 14
year in Ljubljana city centre. Their range covers everything 33 04 85, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. The theme of
from formal business attire to casual weekend wear perfect Marina Rinaldi’s ever-elegant collection this season is neutral
for a relaxed walk around town, and the Spring/Summer 2011 shades - the colour of ice, cement, butter and warm beige
collection has been inspired by the lives of ordinary people tones. The designs have found inspiration in the eighties,
- with each shirt having its own story. A selection of fashion and the clothes are perfect for an afternoon by the pool or
accessories, such as scarves, handbags and jewellery is also relaxing summer evenings. It is ideal for the tall or plus-size
available. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. modern woman with a sophisticated yet casual sense of
Galerija Emporium D-3, Prešernov Trg 5a, tel. style who wishes to display her femininity in a fashionable
(+386) 1 30 84 210, info@galerijaemporium.si, www. but edgy and mysterious way. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat
galerijaemporium.com. After nearly a year of renovations, 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
this luxury department store opened in the beautiful Art Max Mara D-3, Miklošičeva 6, tel. (+386) 1 426 58 80,
Nouveau Urbanc Building in September 2010. Located right info@morris.si, www.morris.si. When entering Max Mara,
on Prešeren Square, various top name men’s and women’s words like ‘elegant’, ‘sophisticated’ and ‘classy’ inevitably
brands can be found across its five floors, and even if you’re
not in need of any clothing or accessories, the building itself
is worth a look. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
H & M C-3, Čopova 2, tel. (+386) 12 41 04 20. Four
floors of affordable Swedish-designed fashion on Ljubljana’s
main pedestrian street. They also have another large store
in City Park. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Hibrid C-2/3, Štefanova 3, tel. (+386) 41 698 777, info@
hibrid.si, www.hibrid.si. The only place is Slovenia to find the
newest fashion trends from some of the world’s hottest design-
ers, Hibrid is a one of a kind boutique located on the ground floor
of Ljubljana’s famous Nebotičnik Building. The owner Romain,
is a French expat and certified fashion aficienado who person-
ally selects the top names from Paris’ bi-annual Fashion Week,
including Dior Homme, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Croatian-
born Damir Doma. While the selection is technically men’s only,
women are also frequent patrons, and as the name suggests
there’s a full range of items from business suits to casual wear
as well as shoes, sunglasses and other accessories. QOpen Shirts, shirts and more shirts at the recently opened AND
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Camicie

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Shopping 61

spring to mind. The shop positively glows with these quali-


ties, offering a diverse range of nicely presented, luxurious
ladies’ attire. Staff are always nearby to assist if needed but
keep a polite distance, allowing you to browse without feeling
any pressure. A highlight is the subtle yet striking Sportmax
range, which presents high fashion at its highest while
retaining an innovative individualism. The Spring/Summer www.cukrcek.si
2011 collection emphasises a fresh view and a combina- A rich selection of homemade chocolates,
tion of fabrics. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. pralines and chocholate gifts.
Closed Sun.
Studio Hosiery D-2, Miklošičeva 10, tel. (+386) 1 430
25 77, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Studio Hosiery’s
range of shirts, stockings, socks and tights and other Max
Mara bodywear mean that between it and neighbouring
stores like Tru Trussardi and La Perla, you can outfit yourself
in the most trendsetting attire from the ground up, as it
were. A perfect place to begin, or conclude, your upmarket
shopping spree. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Tru Trussardi D-3, Miklošičeva 7, tel. (+386) 59 074
299, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Like its nearby sister
stores, Max Mara and La Perla, Tru Trussardi offers a range
of women’s clothing at the cutting-edge of fashion, but also
caters to the style-conscious man, with a sophisticated
range of male clothing. This season the guiding line of the
men’s collection is the dynamics of motorcycles and travel
- emphasising a look of utility with both the materials and
design. While the women’s Spring/Summer 2011 collec-
tion prizes multi-functionality and simplicity, with its Nature
Design line seamlessly combing ecology and technology for
the savvy urban lady. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun.
Zooo C-3, Cankarjeva 4, tel. (+386) 59 044 254,
zooo@eurosport-trade.si, www.zooo.si. A 500 square
metre designer multibrand store located right in the centre Cukrček Chocolate Shop, Pasaža Nebotičnika, Mestni trg 11
of town, Zooo features the latest urban fashions for men
and women. Clothing, footwear and fashion accessories
from brands such as Jacob Cohen, Custo Barcelona, Scotch and truffles are the standouts at this relatively new sweets
& Soda, Tricker’s and Barba Napoli are all on display in the shop located on picturesque Mestni Trg. Ever-popular
retro futuristic space. amongst Slovenes, you can’t really go wrong buying chocolate
for that special someone - especially if it’s a she. Business
clients can also take advantage of custom-designed gifts
Gifts & Souvenirs for employees or clients, and during the warmer months
Čokoladnica Cukrček D-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, wine and chocolate tasting events make for a nice night out.
tel. (+386) 15 19 92 86, info@benedict.si, www. Look for the orange squirrel logo. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
cukrcek.si. A charming, family-run business with three Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been de-
lighting adults and making children happily sick for a
decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of Slovenian designer fashion
chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in
souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and
even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Kraševka D-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 12 Cliché C-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. (+386) 1 42 63 152,
32 14 45, info@krasevka.si, www.krasevka.si. ‘Food info@cliche.si, www.cliche.si. Ljubljana-based Cli-
glorious food’ goes the song and you may well find yourself ché Jelena Leskovar is one of the most intriguing fashion
humming it as you scan the shelves of this tasty shop. A labels in the so-called ‘new Europe’. The designs are all
family-run business, Kraševka provides an outlet for local created using a principle of FQ, or Fashion Intelligence
produce that until recently was only sold directly from the Quotient, which promotes the longevity of forms and
farmer to the passing food-a-phile. It started off specializing compatibility of pieces from new collections with previ-
in produce from the sea but has now expanded to include ous ones. The label’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection,
all manner of Slovenian delicacies from pumpkin-seed oil to called pillow.talk, features colourful knee and and ankle
Tiran wines to jams, cheeses, vinegars and dried meats. length dresses, high-waisted skirts, pants and jeans,
Catering to the inner gourmet lurking in most of us, Kraševka and a line of light metallic hooded jackets and water-
well lives up to its mission statement of selling ‘home-made repellent coats. Cliché’s shop and gallery on Novi Trg
foods that are produced with love’. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, offers both collections from its own brand, as well as
Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. complimentary accessories from designers based in
La Chocolate D-4, Mestni Trg 18, tel. (+386) 1 256 Europe, the US and Japan.QOpen 12:00-20:00, Sat,
50 61/(+386) 41 237 447, info@lachocolate.si, www. Sun 10:00-14:00.
lachocolate.si. Colourful packages of high quality pralines

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


62 Shopping

Photography
Foto Grad D-1/2, Miklošičeva 36, tel. (+386) 14
39 29 00, info@fotograd.com, www.fotograd.com. A
small but decent selection of accessories plus developing
and passport photographs on request. Q Open 08:00 -
19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Foto Tivoli C-3, Cankarjeva 7, tel. (+386) 14 22
36 30, info@foto-tivoli.si, w w w.foto-tivoli.si. One
of the better photography shops in the ci ty centre,
selling not only the usual supply of cameras and acces-
sories but also a wide range of photographic paper and
chemicals. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.

Shopping centres
BTC City M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 85
22 22, info@btc.si, en.btc-city.com/. The big gest
thing of its kind in the country, the positively humungous
BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything
you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants
galore, bars, a post office, mul tiplex cinema, indoor
go-car t racing, a comed y theatre, billiards, volleyball
cour ts, an enormous water park, conference facilities
and its very own business district housing some of the
best known local and international companies. There’s
free parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just
a couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in
the general direction of Maribor. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Citypark M-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) 1587
30 50, info@citypark.si, www.citypark.si. Ljubljana’s
big gest shopping centre got a little bit big ger on 26
November, with the opening of a new wing - bringing
Trgovina Ika D-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1 its total store count up to 124. Besides the massive
232 17 43, www.trgovina-ika.si. /RoIka puts the creativity variety of stores (every major high street brand is here)
of local Slovene artists and fashion designers in the forefront there is a terrific choice of places to eat: most of the
of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection of products restaurants here are far better than your shopping mall
such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion. You can average. There’s parking for all, and so big is this place
pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products represent that even on the busiest of weekends it never feels opres-
the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking sively full. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,
for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun Supernova M-6, Jurčkova 223, tel. (+386) 14 28 88
10:00 - 14:00. 83, info@supernova.si, www.supernova.si. Ljubljana’s
newest shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the
city in Rudnik, and offers plenty of space to leave your car
Luggage and travel while you go enjoy spending your hard-earned cash. Check
Toko D-3, Nazorjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1 421 48 85, fax out the all-you-can-eat sushi place, which is great value
(+386) 1 421 48 80, info@toko.si, www.toko.si. In for your money. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,
Slovenia the name Toko has been synonymous with the Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
production of top quality leather goods for over 60 years.
Now with 15 stores across the country, in recent years it has
expanded it’s range to include business and travel bags from Wine Shops
the likes of Samsonite, Lacoste, American Tourist and Antler, Vino Boutique C-3, Slovenska 38, tel. (+386) 1
in addition to its own line of ladies handbags, wallets, belts 42 52 680, www.vino-boutique.com. Despite being
and other small leather accessories. In Ljubljana you can find located on Ljubljana’s main thoroughfare, this small
them both in the city centre (on Nazorjeva Ulica behind the wine shop is somewhat hidden away in a vaulted brick
Franciscan Church) and BTC (in Hala A). QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, cellar at th e bot tom of narrow staircase. While th e
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. selection isn’t massive, most of what they carry you’ll
be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in the city, including
bottles from two of our favourite vineyards, Sveti Martin
Music Shops and Erzetič. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Vom Second Hand C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 12 52 Closed Sun.
79 21, vom@vom.si, www.vom.si. A tiny shop found down
an equally small alleyway and brimming with a large selection
of mostly but not exclusively second-hand vinyl and CDs. Mu-
sic on offer includes classic rock and some gems from some ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
of the stars of the former Yugoslavia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


BLED 63

Take a dip or ride on Lake Bled


With no less than a millenium of history, Bled has fostered 18-hole golf course which the company also owns and oper-
its old traditions and created new ones - such that its cul- ates, other treats include good wellness facilities, conference
ture and events calendar is ever vibrant. Since the 1960’s rooms and a magnificent indoor swimming pool. Q 150
Bled has been a bustling tourist town, now with an ac- rooms (singles €125-165, doubles €152-190, suites €185-
cording selection of accommodation, restaurants, sports 265). PTHARLGKDXCW hhhh
opportunites and nightlife. The beauty of the surroundings
not only inspires holidaymakers, photographers, artists Park Hotel Bled D-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. (+386)
and musicians; there’s even an internationally renowned 45 79 18 00, hotelpark@hotelibled.com. A huge water-
business school. side hotel from the golden age of Yugoslavia, with splendid
balconies, nicely appointed rooms all coming with en suite
No trip to Bled is complete with stopping by the Hotel Park facilities, an indoor heated pool and a definite emphasis on
for one of their famous Kremsnita cream cakes, and for wellness and fitness in general. All rooms overlooking the
first-time visitors a boat trip to the Church of the Assump- lake come with air conditioning, plus there’s a nice choice of
tion and a visit to the castle is also a must. bars and restaurants. The hotel is famous for its kremšnita
cream cakes, which it has now produced over 10 million of.
Q 217 rooms (singles €125-145, doubles €150-170, suites
Where to stay €230-250). ARUFLGKDXCW hhhh
Bohinj Park J-6/7, Triglavska 17, tel. (+386) 4577 02
10, fax (+386) 4577 02 20, info@bohinj-park-hotel.si, Penzion Mayer D-3, Želeška 7, tel. (+386) 45 76 57
www.bohinj-park-hotel.si. Recently built and adjoined to 40, fax (+386) 45 76 57 41, penzion@mayer-sp.si, www.
the AquaPark itself, during the colder months there is now mayer-sp.si. An inviting country-cottage placed amongst a
need to leave the premises at all, with a complete resort at garden of colourful flowers and neatly trimmed hedges. A
your very fingertips! The hotel offers exceptional comfort in stone’s throw away from the centre, the pension offers the
all its rooms and suites, as well as a classy restaurant and peace, privacy and quietness that guests deserve and some
bar. There are wellness and spa facilities in the hotel itself rooms offer views of the lake and castle. One lovely apart-
or you can pop over to the AquaPark for even more health ment, which is separated from the cottage is available for rent
programmes. You might take a fancy at this service though: in the farmhouse courtyard, is perfect for families. Q (doubles
Domančić BioHealing, which uses bio-therapeutic healing, €55-80, suites €120-150). TABKW hhh
a special form of alternative medicine, for curing numerous
illnesses and diseases. Another fabulous amenity is a Bowl-
ing Centre which includes 5 professional bowling lanes - lots Tourist information
of fun awaiting the whole family. Q 102 rooms, 8 suites
(doubles €69-111, suites €400-650). PTHARUI� Follow the yellow footprints and be greeted by an above-
FLGBKCW average collection of information, maps, guidebooks,
Bled T-shirts and helpful, friendly staff. An excellent
Golf D-3, Cankarjeva 4, tel. (+386) 45 79 17 00, ho- place to drop by for topping up on the latest information,
telgolf@hotelibled.com, www.hotel-golf-bled.com. A there’s also a computer providing free internet access
smidgen up the hill from the lake in a secluded area of trees, and a superb view of the lake.
the almost pagoda-looking Hotel Golf’s reputation as a haven
of tranquillity is clearly warranted. The cool blue and cream Bled Tourist Office Svobode 10, tel. (+386) 4574
rooms feature en suite facilities with either bath or shower, 11 22, tdbled@telemach.net, www.bled.si. QOpen
cable television and balconies, some with excellent views 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
of the lake and mountains. Four kilometres from the superb

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


64 bled

Bars & Pubs


Art Café D-2, Svobode 7a, tel. (+386) 45 74 34 11. A
popular social hangout for the younger clientele, especially
students from the nearby IEDC Bled School of Management
who like to stop by and mingle amongst themselves. When
there’s an important sports event on TV, the place fills up
fast and so do the glasses! The wide, open terrace that
overlooks the lake also brings a steady flow of tourists. The
gold-framed art work and old spiral staircase adds a touch
of charm to its homey interior. Definitely, a satisfying choice
for day and night time entertainment. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00,
Penzion Mlino C-4, Svobode 45, tel. (+386) 45 74 Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00.
14 04, fax (+386) 45 74 15 06, mlino@mlino.si, www. PJA6ILGBXW
mlino.si. Known as a favourite amongst connoisseurs and
gourmands proves that this place rates five stars for its menu Pub Bled D-3, Svobode 19a, tel. (+386) 45 74 26 22.
of typically Slovene cuisine. From season to season, the four One of Bled’s top party places, with a large selection of mixed
walls of the Guesthouse buzz with a warm, lively atmosphere drinks and cocktails and DJs most nights, it attracts a varied
and even just outside the front door, the fun doesn’t stop as mix of tourists, students and local party animals. There’s
guests enjoy in lake activities, walks and cycling around the also a big screen TV that more often than not is tuned to
region. Q 13 rooms €30-35. T6UILGBKW some live sporting event, and if you manage to stop by in
the morning for a glass of your preferred hang over remedy
Savica Cankarjeva 4, tel. (+386) 45 79 17 00, hotel- you can enjoy nice views of the castle and free wireless
savica@hotelibled.com, www.hotel-savica.com. The internet. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
magnificently renovated Savica is one of Slovenia’s more PR6EGBXW
family-friendly hotels. With a grand total of 90 bright, colour-
ful rooms and 14 apartments complete with self-contained
kitchen units, facilities include cable television, en suite What to see
facilities with a choice of either bath or shower, minibars and
balconies in every room. Attractions for families travelling with Bled Castle C-2, tel. (+386) 4572 97 82, blejski.
their children include interconnected rooms, two communal grad@zkbled.si, www.blejski-grad.si. Perched quite
play areas and the occasional children’s entertainment. Q dramatically high up on a cliff overlooking the lake and
104 rooms (singles €88-100, doubles €100-122, suites town, Bled Castle is the stuff of children’s dreams. Built
€176-200). PTARFLKDC hhh and added to haphazardly over the ages since conception
around 1000AD, the castle is a pretty mash of styles. You
Where to eat can visit period rooms, a 16th century chapel, the cellar,
herbal gallery and restaurant. Q Admission €7/3.50.
Chilli D-2, Svobode 9, tel./fax (+386) 45 74 30 27. Just
like the owner will tell you: ‘we just want to make our custom- Blejski Vintgar (Bled Gorge) Formed during the
ers happy’. This restaurant looks like it originally wanted to ice age by the same glacier that carved out the entire
sell Mexican food and then realized that it wouldn’t make Bohinj Valley, Bled Gorge is one of the areas hidden gems.
everyone happy, so decided to offer more. Even though it’s Running for 1.6km along the river Radovna, the gorge has
the only restaurant that offers Mexican food in Bled, you some splendid sights, including walls up to a 100m high
can still get Italian and international dishes. Having been a and a 13m waterfall at its end.
professional athlete, the owner travelled extensively and is
now obsessed with having the same customer service he has Church of the Assumption B-3, Bled island.
seen around the world, and it shows. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sticking out of the island in the middle of the lake, the
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. AUGB Church of the Assumption has been much battered by
earthquakes and lightning over the centuries. Several
Labod D-2, Svobode 8a, tel. (+386) 45 79 84 53, churches have occupied this prime location since one
www.restavracijalabod.si. This very upmarket restaurant was first built here in the 12th century. The current
adjoined to the Hotel Jelovica provides an International a incarnation is from the 17th century. Inside, the impres-
la carte menu along with a fair pick of vegetarian friendly sive altar and the last surviving frescoes from an earlier
meals. Not a bad choice for a meal with business associates Gothic church are worth a look.
or a romantic lunch or dinner along its admirable lake-side
garden, pleasantly adorned amongst green chestnut trees Lake Bled Tel. (+386) 41 42 71 55. Bled’s most
and fountains. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€13-20). famous feature is the crystal-clear lake which has an
PTJAULEBKSW island crowned by the 55-metre tower of the Baroque
Church of the Assumption. The backdrop of mountains
Vila Prešeren D-2, Veslaška Promenada 14, tel. (+386) makes this view especially irresistable. Visitors can take
45 75 25 10, fax (+386) 45 75 25 19, www.vilapreseren. a boat tour to the island (€12) on characteristic pletna
si. Checking out the area’s popular tourist spots doesn’t get boats, which include half an hour to wander around or
any easier than this. The large scenic terrace of the villa’s café visit the church. Boats leave from the Health Park, at
and restaurant puts you inches from the lake, where you can Hotel Park and at the rowing centre.
you take in all of Bled’s major attractions in one easy view,
while sipping your cappuccino in hand. They also feature a full
bistro-style menu of continental and regional fare, and from
dessert you’ll find a range of Bled’s famous creamy cakes. Q
Open Mon-Thur 07:00-24:00, Fri-Sun 07:00-01:00. (€7.50- bled.inyourpocket.com
32). PTA6GBXSW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


bled 65

Bohinj Park ECO Hotel • Triglavska 17, 4264 Bohinjska Bistrica • T 08 200 4080 • E info@vodni-park-bohinj.si • W www.vodni-park-bohinj.si

Code: Pocket
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011
66 Lifestyle directory
Stevo C-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. (+386) 1431 51 38,
Beauty & Wellness stevo@siol.net, www.stevo-sp.si. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Chao Thai Massage M-3, Jana Husa 3, tel. (+386) Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
40 83 73 63, chaothai.si@gmail.com, www.chaothai. Studio Christian C-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 41 98
si. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 77 17. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Massage Corner H-1, Dunajska 111a/(+386) 040 97
14 67. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Sense Welness Club B/C-3, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) Language courses
1588 2600/(+386) 030 388 388, sense@sense-club. Center for Slovene as a Second/Foreign Lan-
com, ww.sense-club.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. guage C/D-4, 12 Kongresni Trg, tel. (+386) 12 41 86
77/(+386) 12 41 86 48, center-slo@ff.uni-lj.si, www.
centerslo.net. Courses in the Slovenian Language are avail-
Clinics able throughout the year.
Health Centre Metelkova F-2, Metelkova 9, tel. Veris J-1, Stegne 7, tel. (+386) 1 5000 579/(+386) 40
(+386) 1472 37 00. 888 131, izobrazevanje@veris.si, www.veris.si.
Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina J-4, Rožna Dolina
IV/45, tel. (+386) 1477 94 00.
University Medical Centre Ljubljana F/G -2, Laundry & Dry Cleaning
Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 1522 50 50. Chemo Express C/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1251
44 04. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Femiks E-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. (+386) 1230 18 20,
Cobblers femiks@amis.net. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Aleš Cevljar E-2, Bavarska Steza 5, tel. (+386) 40 241 Mehurček Viška 54, tel. (+386) 1256 77 08, me-
282, info@cevljar.si, www.cevljar.si. We can’t honestly hurcek@mehurcek.si, www.mehurcek.si. QOpen 08:00
say we know much about the art of mending shoes, but - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
we’ve been going to this guy for years now and he’s never let NEW
us down. He also charges so little that we almost feel guilty. Operi in Posuši M-2, Beblerjev Trg 2 (TC Mercator),
Definitely recommended! QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 tel. (+386) 64 116 341, info@operiinposusi.si, operiin-
- 17:00. Closed Sun. posusi.si. Ljubljana’s first self-service laundry facilities are
located in the Mercator centre shopping complex opposite
the main northern entrance to BTC City. Washing cost €3,
Dentists and drying is €1 for 20 minutes, and there’s even free WiFi.
Dental clinic F-3, Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 15 22 53 46. Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-17:00 and Sun
QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. 08:00-12:00.
Dr Sanja Lucija Pečnik K-1, Dunajska 129, tel. (+386)
1 565 14 25, pecnik.net16.net.
Health Centre E-1/2, Kotnikova 36, tel. (+386) 1300
96 74, www.zd-lj.si. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Libraries
Health Centre Metelkova E/F-2, Metelkova 9, www. City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) C-2, Kersnikova
zd-lj.si. QOpen 20:30 - 04:30. 2, tel. (+386) 1600 13 00, www.mklj.si. The regional
library for central Slovenia is the most popular library in the
country, and has a wide range of English literature. QOpen
Hair Salons 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Mič Styling C-3, Kongresni Trg 4; Stari Trg 11a; Igriška Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National &
10; Poljanska 13, tel. (+386) 12 41 40 40, www.mic- University Library) B-3, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1200
styling.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. 11 88, info@nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Home of
Closed Sun. Slovenia‘s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library
Salon Mali C-2, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1434 05 52, is every researcher‘s dream. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
frizerski.salon.mali@gmail.com, www.salon-mali.com. 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Opticians
Mestna Optika C-3/4, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. (+386)
1251 41 56, www.mestna-optika.si. QOpen 08:30 -
20:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Optika Zajec B-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 72
82, info@zajec-optika.si, www.zajec-optika.si. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Pharmacies
Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) D-3,
Prešernov Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1244 23 60, lekarna.
ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. QOpen 07:30
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Lekarna Ljubljana F-2, Prisojna 7, tel. (+386) 1230
62 30, www.lekarna-lj.si. Q Open 24hrs.
Lekarna Miklošič D-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. (+386)
Matic, the manager of Zlata Ladjica (p 49), accepts the 1st 1230 62 52, www.lekarna-lj.si. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30,
place award for Best Pub in Ljubljana for 2011 Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


BUSINESS directory 67

IYP Editor-in-Chief Craig Turp discusses the success of our iPhone app during his lecture on the future of travel guides at
the annual Alpe-Adria tourism fair
MM-konto J-1, Devova 5, tel. (+386) 1515 50 22.
Banks Par H-3, Tbilisijska 128, tel. (+386) 1423 15 06.
Abanka C/D-2, Slovenska 50, tel. (+386) 1300 15 00. Pro-Eco H-1, Vodovodna 99a, tel. (+386) 1565 45 67.
Bank Of Slovenia C-3, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386) Tax-Fin-Lex K-2, Dunajska 20, tel. (+386) 1432 42
1471 90 00. 43.
Deželna Banka Slovenije D-2, Kolodvorska 9, tel.
(+386) 1472 71 00.
Hypo Group Alpe Adria K-1, Dunajska 117, tel. (+386) Embassies and Consulates
1 580 40 00. Albania M-3, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1547 36 50.
Nova Ljubljanska Banka B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. Australia (consulate) K/L-2, Železna 14, tel. (+386)
(+386) 1476 39 00. 1 234 8675.
Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Pogačarjev Trg 2, tel. (+386) Austria B-3, Prešernova 23, tel. (+386) 1479 07
1234 98 18. 00.
Skb B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1471 59 58. Belgium B-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. (+386) 1200
Unicredit Banka Slovenija D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. 60 10.
(+386) 1587 64 72. Bosnia & Herzegovina K-2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. (+386)
1234 32 50.
Brazil C-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244 24 00.
Business centres Bulgaria K-4, Opekarska cesta 35, tel. (+386) 1 28
Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Inkubator H-1, Vojkova 32 899.
63, tel. (+386) 1620 34 80. Canada (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+386)
Poslovni angeli Slovenije H-2, Železna 18, tel. 1252 44 44.
(+386) 1307 09 33. China L-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1420 28 55.
Tehnološki Park Ljubljana J-4, Teslova 30, tel. Croatia L-4, Gruberjevo Nabrežje 6, tel. (+386) 1200
(+386) 1477 66 13. 44 01.
The Business Center (Virtual Office and Busi- Cyprus D-2, Komenskega 12, tel. (+386) 1232 15 42.
ness Center) C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1 4701 Czech Republic B-5, Riharjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1420
690. 24 50.
Denmark C-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386) 143 80 800.
Finland C-2/3, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1 300
Chambers of Commerce 21 20.
Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia France C-5, Barjanska 1, tel. (+386) 1479 04 00.
(Gospodarska Zbornica Slovenije) L-2, Dimičeva Germany B-3, Prešernova 27, tel. (+386) 1479 03 00.
13, tel. (+386) 1589 80 00. Greece K-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. (+386) 1420
14 00.
Hungary Konrada Babnika 5, tel. (+386) 1512 18
Computers 82.
Comshop BTC M-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel. India K-2, Maurerjeva 29, tel. (+386) 1 513 31 17.
(+386) 51 34 59 11. Ireland E-3, Poljanski Nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1 300 89
Sosed H-2, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 31 610 604. 70.
Tech Trade C-2, Vošnjakova 5, tel. (+386) 1434 01 08. Italy B-4, Snežniška 8, tel. (+386) 1 426 21 94.
Japan B-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. (+386) 1200 82
81.
Consultants Latvia D-2, Tavčarjeva 10/7, tel. (+386) 1 434 1620.
IQbator J/K-2, Drenikova 33, tel. (+386) 41 690 666. Lithuania C-5, Emonska 8, tel. (+386) 1 2445 600.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011


Business
68 monolitmap_165_90_en.pdf directory
18.3.2009 0:47:20

Luxemburg (consulate) B-3, Slovenska 27, tel. TNT Express M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15
(+386) 1470 70 15. 87 83 00.
Macedonia K-1, Dunajska 104, tel. (+386) 1 568 UPS Intereuropa Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42
44 54. 81 12 00.
Malta (consulate) C-2, Kersnikova 11, tel. (+386)
041 444 014.
Montenegro F-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. (+386) 1439 Internet Cafés
53 64. CyberHP Café Šmartinska 152/G (Citypark), tel.
Netherlands C-2, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1420 (+386) 15 42 15 30.
14 61. Drog-Art E-1/2, Kolodvorska 20, tel. (+386) 14 39 72
Norway B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300 21 40. 70.
Poland H-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. (+386) 1 436 47 12. Oton Zupancic Library C-1, Train Station,Trg OF 10,
Portugal B-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. (+386) 1479 tel. (+386) 12 91 23 96.
05 40.
Romania H-1, Smrekarjeva 33A, tel. (+386) 1505 Real estate
82 94. Abc Nepremičnine C-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386)
Russia A-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1422 49 20. 1300 00 00.
Serbia C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1438 01 10. Agencia M-3, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1521 15 65.
Slovakia A-3, Tivolska 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 25. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
South Africa (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 4, tel. Ljubljana Nepremičnine B-2, Cankarjeva 10, tel.
(+386) 1200 63 00. (+386) 80 81 81.
Spain C-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. (+386) 1420 23 30. Luster H-2, Tržaška 124, tel. (+386) 1200 49 54, fax
Sweden C/D-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 130 (+386) 1200 59 55.
00 270. Royal Nepremičnine B-2, Cigaletova 5, tel. (+386)
Switzerland B-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. (+386) 1300 73 70.
1200 86 40.
Turkey D-1, Livarska 4, tel. (+386) 1236 41 50.
Ukraine A-5, Teslova 23, tel. (+386) 1421 06 04. Relocations
UK B-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. (+386) 1200 39 10. Relocations Ltd H-1, Slovenska 34 (The Business Centre),
USA B-3, Prešernova 31, tel. (+386) 1200 55 00. tel. (+386) 40 51 78 20, fax (+386) 14 70 16 99.
Selitveni servis Repič H-1, Tesovnikova 47, tel.
(+386) 1565 69 50.
Express Mail Vatovec D-2, Čufarjeva 5, tel. (+386) 1430 13 40.
DHL Špruha 19, Trzin, tel. (+386) 1588 78 00.
FedEx M-3, Ob Železnici 14, tel. (+386) 15 47 33 86.
Kurirček , tel. (+386) 80 1881. Translators
Tine Express J-1, Nadgoriških Borcev 34, tel. (+386) Alkemist J-2, Obirska 4, tel. (+386) 1514 16 78.
15 61 70 00. Berlitz C-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. (+386) 1433 13 25.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com


Index 69

Abanka 67 Drog-Art 68 Inkubator 67 Russia 68


Adria Airways 10 Dr Sanja Lucija Pečnik 66 Lolita 42 Salon Mali 66
Agencia 68 Dulcis Caffe 40 Loving Hut 39 San Martino 36
Air France 10 Dvorni Bar 48 Lufthansa 10 Sarajevo '84 30
Ajdovo Zrno 39 Easyjet 10 Luster 68 SAS Scandinavian Airlines 10
Albania 67 Elit Taxi 10 Luxemburg (consulate) 68 Savica 28, 63
Al Capone 35 Europcar 9 Macedonia 68 Sax Pub 49
Aleš Cevljar 66 Exhibition of Slovenian Makalonca 46 Selitveni servis Repič 68
Alkemist 68 History 55 Malta (consulate) 68 SEM Kavarna 43
Allegria 36 FedEx 68 Marta Studio 28 Sense Welness Club 66
Antiq 23 Femiks 66 Massage Corner 66 Serbia 68
Apetit 37 Finland 67 Maxim 34 SiQRD 50
Argentino 32 France 67 Mehurček 66 Sir William's Pub 49
As 32 Gala Hala 46 Mencigar Nobile 38 Skb 67
As Bar 44 Germany 67 Mesarski Most 51 Slon 34
Atrium 33 Golf 28, 63 Mestna Hiša 54 Slovakia 68
Australia (consulate) 67 Gostilna Gurman 30 Mestna Optika 66 Slovenia for Gay Travelers 50
Austria 67 Gostilna na Brinju 38 Metro Taxi 10 Slovenian Tourist Information
Austrian Airlines 10 Gostilnica Rimska XXI 38 Mič Styling 66 Center 51
Azur 26, 36 Gostišče Portal 30 MM-konto 67 Smrekarjev Hram 35
Bank Of Slovenia 67 Grajska Kavarna 42 Mons 23 Sosed 67
Belgium 67 Grand Hotel Union Business 22 Mons Jazz Club 49 South Africa (consulate) 68
Berlitz 68 Grand Hotel Union Executive 22 Montenegro 68 Spain 68
Bi-Ko-Fe 44 Greece 67 Movia 48 Sputnik 46
Bit Center 26 Gušt 37 Moysushi 29 Stari Tišler 26
Bled Castle 64 Gymnasivm Sauna 50 Namasté 32 STA Travel Cafe 43
Bled Tourist Office 63 Harambaša 30 Narodna In Univerzitetna Stevo 66
Blejski Vintgar 64 Hard Core Club 49 Knjižnica 66 Stil 24
Bohinj Park 28, 63 Health Centre 66 National Gallery 55 Studio Christian 66
Bon Appétit 32 Health Centre Metelkova 66 National Museum 58 Sushimama 30
Bosnia & Herzegovina 67 Hostel Print 26 National University Library 54 Sweden 68
Botanical Gardens 58 Hot Horse 38 Natural History Museum 58 Switzerland 68
Brazil 67 Hugo Barrera 46 Nebotičnik 43, 54 Tanga 49
Brussels Airlines 10 Hungary 67 Netherlands 68 Tax-Fin-Lex 67
Budget 9 Hypo Group Alpe Adria 67 Nobel Burek 38 Taxi Intertours 10
Bulgaria 67 IdealRent 9 Norway 68 Tech Trade 67
Burger King 37 India 67 Nova Ljubljanska Banka 67 Tehnološki Park Ljubljana 67
Bus Station 9 IQbator 67 Olimpija 38 Thai Sabai 50
Café Open 50 Ireland 67 Opcija 38 The Business Center (Virtual
Café Plato 40 Italy 67 Opera Bar 46 Office and Business Center) 67
Canada (consulate) 67 Japan 67 Operi in Posuši 66 Tine Express 68
Cantina Mexicana 36 JB 33 Optika Zajec 66 Tivoli Park 52
Celica 26 Joe Pena's 36 Orthodox Church 54 TNT Express 68
Center 26 Juicebox 32 Orto Bar 48 Tour AS 28
Center for Slovene as a Jurman 33 Ošterija Pri Oljki 35 Tourist Information Centre 20
Second/Foreign Language 66 K4 Roza 50 Oton Zupancic Library 68 Train Station 9
Central Pharmacy 66 KavaČaj Slamič 42 Par 67 Trattoria Katrca 36
Čevljarski Most 51 Kavalino 35 Park Hotel Bled 28, 63 Tromostovje 51
Chamber of Commerce and Kavarna Maček 42 Parma 37 Turag4all 54
Industry of Slovenia 67 Kavarna Maček Rooms 24 Patrick's Irish Pub 49 Turkey 68
Chao Thai Massage 66 Kavarna Rog 42 Penzion Mayer 63 Turkish Airlines 10
Chemo Express 66 Kavarna Tromostovje 42 Penzion na Klancu 28 UK 68
Chile (consulate) 67 Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna Pizzeria Osmica 37 Ukraine 68
Chilli 64 dolina 66 Plato 34 Ultra 48
China Fast Food 29 Klub K4 46 Poland 68 Unicredit Banka Slovenija 67
Church of the Assumption 64 Klub Slon 49 Polna Skleda 34 University Medical Centre
City Library 66 Kurirček 68 Portal Guesthouse 24 Ljubljana 66
Cliché 61 Lake Bled 64 Portugal 68 UPS Intereuropa 68
Coffe Project 40 Latino Nightclub 49 Poslovni angeli Slovenije 67 USA 68
Čolnarna 40 Latvia 67 Postojna Cave 56 Vatovec 68
Comshop BTC 67 Lekarna Ljubljana 66 Pri Semaforju 43 Veris 66
Contemporary History Lekarna Miklošič 66 Pri Škofu 39 Vila Prešeren 64
Museum 55 Le Petit Café 33 Pri Vitezu 34 Zajčja Dobrava 36
Croatia 67 Le Petit Café & Restaurant 42 Pri Zelenem Zajcu 46 Žale Cemetery 54
Cvetličarna 46 Lev 23 Pro-Eco 67 Zlata Ladjica 49
CyberHP Café 68 Lithuania 67 Pub Bled 64 Zlati Zob 48
Cyprus 67 Little Italy 35 Puppet Theatre Clock 55 Žmauc 46
Czech Airlines 10 Ljubljana Airport 9 Q Cultural Centre 50 Zvezda 43
Czech Republic 67 Ljubljana Castle 58 Raiffeisen Bank 67 Zmajski Most 52
Denmark 67 Ljubljana Nepremičnine 68 Relocations Ltd 68
Dental clinic 66 Ljubljana Tourist Information Rich Club 48
Deželna Banka Slovenije 67 Centre 51 Robba Fountain 55
Don Felipe 39 Ljubljana Zoo 58 Romania 68
Drago F Tinta 40 Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Royal Nepremičnine 68

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2011

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